Should We Use WAGOS or WIRENUTS?!?!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 14 июн 2024
- In the latest segment of Electrician U, Dustin answers the question- Should we be using Wire Nuts or Wago’s out in the field to splice our wires? While the answer in your head should seem easy enough, there are several things to consider when choosing your wire splicing materials.
01:39 - Pre-twist gang
02:50 - CODE TIME
08:55 - Why I use what I use
🤘⚡️MEMBERSHIP⚡️🤘
JOIN ELECTRICIAN U - become a member and get:
FREE Continuing Education every year
FREE Practice Exams
FREE Monthly Video Courses
FREE Weekly Live Instructor-Led Classes
FREE Monthly Educational Newsletter
Premium Members-Only Content
Private Discord Channel
Monthly Members-Only Discord Chats
Sign up here --- www.electricianu.com/electric...
🎧🎹MUSIC AND VIDEO:🎹🎧
/ descantmv
🎬✍️ART AND ILLUSTRATION:✍️🎬
www.daverussoart.com
First, lets establish WHAT a Wago is. Just like almost everything else in the electrical industry, there are several terms for each material! Wire splicing components are no different. Wago is actually a brand name (one of the first to produce the product) of a push in type wire connector; whereas a wire nut requires twisting force to accomplish the connection. They both have metal connections within the wire splicing item to ensure continuity of the splice, but Wago type wire connectors are much more efficient as they do not require the electrician to twist the wires together with a tool before applying the connector (or using the connector to do the twisting) but the electrician simply pushes the wires into the connecting holes and the metal jaws do the rest of the work.
The NEC requires that things be installed per the manufacturer’s instructions. You can find the code reference in Article 110.3(B) of the NEC. In a nutshell, it states that if you do have a piece of equipment that is labeled, listed, or both that you SHALL install AND use per the instructions that are included in the labeling or listing. There are instances within the NEC that do require things to be listed, but this is an item-by-item requirement and should be researched for each task you are performing. Article 110.14 (Electrical Connections) governs wire splicing materials. In essence, it tells us that they wire connectors be identified for the material of the conductor (either copper or aluminum or both) AND shall be properly installed and used. So, having said all of that, as far as the NEC is concerned, if we are using a wire splicing method that is approved for what we are doing with it, identified for the materials being spliced, and installed per the manufacturer’s instructions, pressure type wire connectors are fine.
If the NEC is good with it, next would be installer preference. If it is an item that probably won’t be serviced or changed often (say a residential switch or receptacle) then wire nuts would be the way most of us would go. We would twist our wires together, install the device, and push it back in the box and leave it. There is really no need to get back into it unless something goes wrong, or the device wears out or something like that. If it is something that will most likely require replacement (such as the rows of fluorescent fixture ballasts in warehouses or large retail stores) then a Wago type wire connector may be more beneficial for us to use as we would not have to untwist each and every joint to replace the item.
Wire composition is another factor to consider. Most pressure type wire connectors do not do a great job on stranded conductors but are made more for solid wires. However, Wago DOES have some lever lock type push in wire connectors that will accept stranded wires. As with anything, do your research on what you are wanting to use to see all the different options available. Cost is also another thing to keep in mind when selecting wire connectors. Wago type wire connectors are usually much higher than standard wire nut type, although they have come down in price considerably over the past several years. Keep in mind that what you are paying for is efficiency, so the cost of the material may justify itself if it saves the installing electrician time in installing several of these.
#electrician #electrical #electricity
Why to use Wago:
- Way easier to install correctly(especially when connecting stranded to solid or different gauges)
- On first sight you can see if it's installed correctly
- Easy to troubleshoot and redo
- Does not damage wire
- Cheapest way to properly connect Cu with Al
- Saves time
- Can be used on shorter wires where you couldn't install wirenut
- Better in vibrating conditions
Why to use wirenuts:
- Cost
But if it's faster to use a WAGO than a Wirenut, then cost (in your time) is a plus of a WAGO.
Another pro for he wirenut is resistance. If there's a lot of current flowing through the connection, it might be better to use a wirenut over a Wago.
GreatScott just made a video comparing these connectors.
@@ddegn Might be. But I'd still prefer slightly worse resistance and consistent results than slightly better resistance, but possible firestarter hidden under pen cap.
"Cheapest way to properly connect Cu with Al" Wrong! They are not rated for aluminum wire termination, PERIOD! There are only two acceptable and permanent methods for terminating aluminum and copper clad aluminum wire. One being by King Innovations and the other is by Tyco. The Ideal purple twisters are not accepted as permanent terminations.
@@mikeiver Sure, if you think so. I'll keep using Wago contact paste and their connectors.
Wago’s excel in several areas. 1- Connections that will need to be remade. I do all light fixtures with Wago’s since designs change and people want new styles of fixtures. 2- Installed smart technology devices like smart switches and fixtures. 3- Mixing stranded and solid wire. Makes a more sure connection. 4- Hot work. You can quickly put a Wago on the hot conductor to prevent accidental contact and it never needs to be exposed again to finish the work. 5- Wires that are too short to make solid twist connections.
Agreed on the hot work. I change out ballast alot doing service. Alot of the time there is no panel schedule or the business can't shut down every light to change out one ballast. Capping the hot amd neutral with a wago makes my job safer and repowering new ballast easy
I never thought about using a wago to isolate a hot wire. I’m not an electrician, but i do a lot of home renovation projects. Thanks for the tip.
@@huejanus5505 please don't work on stuff hot. Especially at home when you can turn off the breaker.
Great points ! 👍👍
There are specific Wagos for stranded wire.
My contention with twisting wires-and my subsequent love of lever locks-stems from the fact that I've opened hundreds of boxes in the last 30 years to find 'work hardened' wires so brittle that the twists simply snap off the wire. Almost invariably the junction has already been reworked multiple times and wire is too short to reach the outlet and barely long enough to splice.
Work hardened wires? I think not unless we are talking about wires that have been in place for many decades. 95% of the wires that break off are due to the installer stripping with linesman plires or incorrectly using a stripper and putting a knotch in the conductors. Wagos don't fix this issue.
@@mikeiver Most of the houses I've worked in were built in the mid-1900's so perhaps I have a particular kind of exposure bias. I see lots of paper filler and woven outer jackets... and lots of fragile twists that break off inside the nut.
While lever-lock connectors don't retroactively prevent incompetence they do save the day when there's only an inch of wire left in the back of the box and there's no slack left in the wall. Have fun twisting a Marrette onto _that._ ;)
@@helmanfrow I have had to deal with allot of the very same as you. Here we also deal with soldered and taped connections as well knob and tube. We tape or heat shrink the wires. Also, agree with wires being short and wagos or insure being the only viable option. Ideal has an inline push in that is perfect for the issues you detail. Don't get me wrong, I use them, just not my goto for new work. Over the years my attitude has "evolved" towards them and they are now in my kit. For troubleshooting and quick fixes I keep them in my pocket!
Yes, I have same problem. I do a lot of work on buildings pre- WW2, and run into hardened wires, wires now way short; but I use lever locks not wagos.
@@tongasmith910 Which lever locks are you using if not Wago? Ideal?
I'm not sure how the word "Wago" became synonymous with stab connectors. It seems to me that Wago's real claim to fame is in fact the lever lock (221-xxx, 222-xxx).
Wagos is the way to go when connecting solid to stranded!
Especially when the wires are different sizes. I just used them in my vent fan/light fixture. #12 solid in, smaller stranded pigtails inside.
I like the lever ones, much more than just stab in.
I was just about to comment that. For ceiling fans it's a must . @@dougfaunt5565
15 years in the trade, once i went wagos with lever nuts ive never looked back.
They are just superior in every aspect (exept the cost, wich is saved in time anyway)
Highly loaded for long durations wagos and insure connectors show a greater temperature rise (IE higher intrinsic connection resistance) than properly terminated and installed wirenuts. They both have their place in my bag and are installed where good engineering dictates rather than cost or time being the determinant factor.
@@mikeiver i dont belive that for a second.
First of all they are rated for much higher current then you even use them for (and thats just the rating i would gues that is put with a safety margin)
Second there have been alot of overload tests, you can check yourself here at youtube, and the cables actually completly burn up long before the wago, even after everything is melted the wago still holds its connection.
@@eagdhj I've seen them and run the test myself. I have put them in line with wire nuts under a heater load for an extended period of time. The thermal camera showed that the Wago was hotter than the wire nut. I have replaced burnt up wirenuts, insure, and wago connectors. I have been an electrician for the better part of 20 years and 10 of them as a service and troubleshoot tech in all ranges of electrical trades. To make a statement that one is superior over the other is simply wrong headed. But you go ahead and assert whatever you want. I will believe my experience and tests over your assertions.
@@eagdhj Not that i disagree with you, but probably better to get test results from the manufacturers rather than random RUclips videos.
@@mikeiver bullshit. That experiment been done and shown on RUclips. Wago took way more than their rated amperage and the wires fail before the connection. Same as wirenuts.
I get using wirenuts as a way too save on money, since it does add up. However, to act like wago products don't meet their specs or are more dangerous than wirenuts is moronic.
I recently discovered the Wago Lever Nuts and am so glad I did. Especially for two problematic applications: 1) Wires cut too short in small boxes and tight places and 2) Connecting solid and stranded, like for light fixtures. For me trying to twist solid and thin stranded has always turned to a miserable mess. And light fixtures are almost certain to be swapped out as styles change.
THANK YOU!
Lots of new lights and fans come with the push on type of Wago. You can get the wire out with wiggling and pulling but for the most part they're a one time use connector.
I’ve never had an issue connecting solid and stranded wires. I always make sure the stranded wire is a little longer than the solid wire and wrap it around then twist on a Can-Twist wire nut.
Same here. I found some in my van last year and was blown away. Saved me on that service call when I found them, and I've fallen in love with them ever since. I don't use them for everything, but I love em when I need em. Definitely think I'm going to start incorporating them with lighting as several others have pointed out on here. I like the thinking.
@@fauxque5057 I wouldn't consider the lever release Wago connectors to be at all the same as those push in connectors. These Wagos are zero insertion force connectors, while those push in connectors are necessarily light spring loaded to accommodate varying wire gauges, and not comparable in any way to the lever lock connectors or wire nuts.
Wagos are designed for 32 amp circuits. They have test videos where they far exceed that and they stay connected even after all the insulation burns off.
500 ampers than start wago to burning,yes they say 32 ampers because it's up 6mm cable connection.on 500 ampers cable melt which can fit to wago
Typically… thats funny… typically they where 600V 20A 1,5mm^2 and 2,5mm (14awg, 12awg).. with typically i mean the last 64 years.. the 10 years prior they did not get much use…
Now the push in for a rated current of 32A but requested use of 80% and the clamp ones rated for 41A.. 80% are your 32A… with other Wagos.. you are typically wrong…
And even now.. the new clamp ones..they are made for 420V, 4kV failure load, 41A by IEC/EC or 600V 30A by UL.. wich makes them worse in the USA than in Europe.. 240V .. means more power less material needed.. 3 phase connection landing at 380V between.. (420V 20% buffer).. that is the reason why Americans can‘t use them like we do.. we germans can use them even up to a load of 7,5kW and the stab ones to 5,7kW load while americans can use it to 2,5kW savely.. wich can be way easier to reach in a household… that is why also featherclamp connectors for American plugs are hated while the work perfectly fine in europe..
By the way.. the lamp connectors are rated way lower.. and do not twist the strands.. a few americans seem now that they have discovered Wagos are heaving a few problems with them..
Wago for splicing 4 or more conductors. There is no way you can cleanly splice 8 conductors with a huge wirenut. But the 8-port Wago is beautiful. Great for multigang switchboxes with a crazy number of neutrals and grounds that need to be commoned.
Big gray or big blue I’ve done it 1000 times
@Slade Profka Those large blue nuts are for larger conductors (say four 10 gauge). If I were forced to splice together 8 #14 conductors using wirenuts, I'd make groups of three and daisy chain pigtail jumpers between groups. It's neither clean nor elegant, but it would be far better than a honking mass of conductors all bound together.
@Slade Profka In fact i already needet 8 port wago several times and I am working since 3 years XD
some time the 5 port isn´t big enouge or some time i got the task to do same crazy circuts for school
@Slade Profka One of the possible use of 8 or more conductors are custom made "spider lamps". If you don't split into groups to switch half or third of the bulbs you need 8 conductor for 7 bulbs or 10 conductors for 9 bulbs configuration. Other example is spot lamps in the kitchen furniture. 6 or 7 lamps are tied together behind the lightswitch so you don't daisy chain the lamps.
@@SFefy You can create two groups of four hots with a jumper to switch. Not hard to do.
Two advantages of WAGO connectors, that are seldomly mentioned:
1. You can inspect the connection, because the plastic is see through. (cable stripped properly, wire pushed in deep enough)
2. The connector has a tiny hole, which can be used for safe measurements on a live circuit without undoing any splices.
Wago 222's are not transparent though.
He's obviously talking about 221s. Being both smaller and transparent, you should be using 221s anyway unless you have a bunch of 222s left in stock.
I use a mix of both. Wago's for Lighting and Wirenuts for outlets. I find lever wago extremely useful for changing out ballast or CFL ballast in small compact areas.
yeah, the wago is great for joining 14 or 12 with those tiny 16 or 18 leads on ballasts
I was introduced to Wagos when they first came out, but I guess I’m old school, because I just can’t bring myself to going that route. I trust the feel of pre-twisting the wires, then twisting a wire nut on with firm pressure. That way, I feel confident that my connection has sufficient surface contact and a tight reliable finish once the wire nut is sunk home on the wires. Although, I do like the suggestion of using them on ballasts, where the wire sizes are mixed and the load is typically low.
Wagos are phenomenal for industrial and commercial raceways too. Too much troubleshooting that I've gotta disable a whole circuit and cut off a bunch of garbage pretwisted wire. Including outlets and j boxes.
That said, resi should definitely pretwist. It's probably never gonna get accessed again except for replacement/remodel.
Dude when I go on a service call to replace a ballast and it’s wagos. Man do I get happy
Yeah, lighting these days is such low amperage. (usually)
Having used both I think WAGOS are superior
I had the same problem while implementing a modular hotel project for CitizenM in Seattle. In our country in Europe, Wago is the basic connector and the surprise was great when at the beginning the general contractor prohibited the use of these connectors. Ultimately, we used wire nut for socket circuits, i.e. 12/2 MC, and Wago was allowed to use for 24VDC only. It was about 4 years ago. In 2020, also for the CitizenM project in WDC , there was no such problem anymore and we used Wago everywhere. Greetings from Poland
How did you end up working in the USA as a European electrician? Was it hard to get used to the new color codes and standards?
I'm a DIYer (who spent way too much time researching this previously), so my comment is mostly aimed at other non-professionals. IMO unless you're a professional you should probably always use the clear Wago 221 series lever nuts. If you're a professional then you probably don't need my input. Pick what you like for whatever reason you find justifies it.
Pros of wire nuts: Cheap. Provides the "best" (most continuous surface contact) connection when properly applied.
Cons of wire nuts: You can't see the conductors inside the nut. Can be improperly applied creating a fire hazard. Twisting can be somewhat time-consuming comparatively. Typically requires trimming of conductors if the nut is removed (like to swap out a fixture), which can shorten conductors to a state where they're hard to work with. Sometimes difficult to properly connect stranded and solid conductors.
Pros of Wago 221s: Fast. Easy to use safely, even with little or no experience. You can see the conductor is properly inserted at all times. Easy to change/reapply/reuse. Typically doesn't require trimming conductors to reuse. Easier with stranded conductors. Easier for multiple conductors (3+).
Cons of Wago 221s: Comparatively expensive. Culturally considered "not as proven" or "uncool" in the US. Or so I've heard.
Also if a professional electrician winds up replying to my comment and handing me my ass for something I didn't know, listen to them. They're the professionals, not me.
Personal preference:
For the rare time I need to splice 4 solid conductors together, Wago all day. 3 or less solid conductors I’m indifferent. Wago all the time on 10AWG or smaller stranded & solid to stranded.
Those darn solid 12/14awg to a LED light fixture with stranded take half the time with a wago levernut. My time is worth money, and apprentices rarely mess up solid to stranded connections with a wago levernut.
Bingo!
but you forget a BIG benefit....you aren't butchering the wires with levernuts. And they are also REALLY easy and much faster.
Honestly, given the effort required to install them, i'm unconvinced the wire nuts are even cheaper at all. Never forget to include work time when calculating costs. Probably makes up a bigger part of the cost than the connector in either case.
I'm just gonna say this: once I discovered that I can prevent BUTCHERING my wires by using wagos, I have never looked back and never will look back. I'm thinking about the next guy (and also that next guy will probably be me lol)
Same here bro. It's why I made the switch too. No more need for 30 years of electricians clipping half inch of the wire because it was so mangled as to be unusable.
My house is 25 years old and some of the switches and receptacles are starting to fail. It was a Godsend to discover Wagos. (Just had a thought! I wonder if the Wago Company will start making receptacles with the Wago built in !!!).
@@glasshalffull2930 you sir... Need to ask them about that. Wtf are we doing without those. Holy shit.
@@glasshalffull2930 These receptacles are now being made,see Leviton's Decora "Edge". Wago makes a DIN-rail outlet box for Euro markets, no internal wiring necessary.
@@50srefugee Thanks! I saw those recently. I’ll wait a while to see their performance in the real world.
WAGO's take up a lot less space in the box, which allows receptacles and switches to fit into the box without binding or crushing connections. In addition to enabling more space, they actually save copper by reducing waste. 🤔🤠🤓
I'm surprised not to find pitchforks vs torches thing going on. Go into a drywall group and start a paper vs mesh tape thread, sit back, watch fireworks :D
Yeah, the trades tend to be very, very, extremely slow adopters of better techniques.
XD
For patching you can't beat mesh, it's hoses for courses.
I use both. Mesh for seams with hot mud. Paper for inside corners.
Off the topic, but since you brought it up...
For repairs, neither paper nor mesh- look for "FibaFuse." It's a non-woven fiberglass from St. Gobain. Thinner than paper, so easier to feather. Permeable, so you don't get bubbles- they just go right out through the tape. Likewise dry spots- just mash the mud through the tape. A bit spendier than paper, but for repairs, well worth the $$.
I've watched about 10 of your videos so far, and thanks for being so through. You dont just answer the question....you elaborate on every angle. I like that. And a very unique kind of channel. There's lots of electricians on youtube but you've build a nice niche. I'll keep watching
As a homeowner I love using wago 221's Especially with light fixtures. Solid and stranded.
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation:
00:00 ⚡ *Wire Nuts vs. Wagos Introduction*
- Exploring the debate between using wire nuts and wagos for electrical connections.
- Introduction to what wagos are and how they differ from wire nuts.
01:08 🔌 *Key Characteristics of Wagos*
- Wagos are stab-in splicing devices.
- They have metal inside to connect wires without twisting.
- Discusses the debate around pre-twisting wires before using wire nuts.
03:00 📜 *National Electrical Code (NEC) Requirements*
- NEC requirements regarding listed equipment and installation instructions.
- Differentiates between "listed" and "listing instructions."
- Explains the significance of using listed equipment.
04:22 🧰 *Various Terms for Wire Connectors*
- Discusses the use of terms like wire connectors, wire nuts, and more.
- Ideal's patent on the term "wire nut" and its implications.
- Explores the different ways to connect conductors in electrical installations.
05:40 ⚙️ *Handling Dissimilar Metals and Corrosion*
- The risk of dissimilar metals corroding when mixed.
- How wagos may mitigate this issue depending on their design.
- The importance of using anti-oxidizing paste in wire nuts for dissimilar metals.
07:57 🔗 *Splicing and Connection Methods*
- NEC guidelines for splicing conductors, including brazing, welding, soldering, and pressure connectors.
- The requirement for soldered splices to be mechanically and electrically secure before soldering.
- Insulation and identification requirements for splices and connections.
10:48 🏭 *Practical Application and Preferences*
- Practical scenarios where wire nuts and wagos are preferred.
- Benefits of using wagos for quick and efficient work, especially when frequent disassembly is required.
- Factors like stranded conductors and space limitations influencing the choice between wire nuts and wagos.
12:40 🛒 *Merchandise, Education, and Membership*
- Promotional information about merchandise (Ucrew hats, Electrician U shirts).
- Mention of continuing education, live tutoring, and available classes.
- Invitation to become a member and support Electrician U's offerings and expanding courses.
Made with HARPA AI
Im glad you approve of wagos. I have small boxes in my 70s home and getting the boxes organized really helps my projects move along.
Wago lever connectors all the way. For those who justify twist connectors saying the lever nuts are too expensive: two wire Wago lever nuts are only $0.25 each on Amazon in quantities of 100. If you’re billing at $60/hour, $0.25 is 15 seconds of time. While they may not produce a net savings, they’re not driving your costs up significantly. Wire nuts require you to strip, gather the wires into a bundle, change tools to twist, trim and only then put on the connector. Lever nuts only require you to strip the conductors. One tool. Plus you don’t have to connect all the conductors together at one time. With wire nuts, I have to separate the conductors before making connections. With the lever nuts, I can make connections as I go. As soon as I separate out the next conductor, I trim to length, strip and make the connection to the block. A quick tug on the wire and I’m 100% sure I have a good connection. If anything needs taken apart, you don’t need to re-strip the wire because the lever nuts don’t damage the conductor.
The wagos are nice for capping off potentially live wires while you work. Great for renovations with wires hanging everywhere.
Haha nuts are pretty good at that too
@@jasonfoster9118 Try to do that with one wire! You can put a Wago on one wire and you are safe. I can't belefe that you can do this with a wirenut!
@@toycarcrush You know they make different sizes
@@jasonfoster9118 Well, tehy aren't common in germany! We don't use them her. And they are forbidden here in Europe! So I don't know them. It might be true, to use them with one wire. But I don't have the expereence with it! Please don't juge me. ;-)
Wago lever nuts are amazing for ceilings fans and others lights where the manufacturer used the thinnest gauge of stranded allowed.
you got it you hit it on the head they are designed and intended for light fixtures.
I've always called the Twist On Wire Connecting Devices made by 3M, the ones with a the wings as 3M Scotch Loks. That's what we were taught in Trade School and the hard screw on Plastic ones were called Wire Nuts. I use 3M or Ideal Wing Tip Scotch Loks, some with the little rubber skirts and some without . Also use Wagos, Wire Nuts and the Push In type of Wire Connectors. I'm a Journeyman Electrician with over 55 years in the trade ! I even used the small crimp on copper barrel sleeves then wrapped with rubber tape and friction tape, the way they use to do wire connections BEFORE Wire Connectors were even on the market ! And I have even done Soldered Joint Connections then applied rubberized wrapping followed by friction tape wrapping !
That's OLD old school
I'm always so fascinated (and sometimes frustrated) when I run into the old techniques of splicing. I find it so interesting to see the progression of the trade.
Wire Nuts have been on the market since the early 20's the first ones were ceramic. Crimp on barrel sleeves that pre dated the wire nut (by just a couple years and were imvented by the inventor of the wire nut) still had a bakelite cap much like a Buchanan or were of the set screw type with a bakelite cap. Prior to that it was solder and tape... NOT since before 1930 has any sparky that was not a complete hack use just a crimp on barrel and tape....
I've got the soldered connections in my house that was built in 1953, very durable. The Wagos are nice for all the reasons people mention in this comment section.
Scotch Locks (Actually called Scotchlok) are actually an entirely different type of connector made by 3M for use in the Telecom/LV industry. Another case of slang becoming the norm. Like calling any brand of reciprocating saw a Sawzall.
I noticed that there are a lot of comments suggesting they would only use Wago on lighting circuits, implying that they are only good for lightly loaded 15 amp circuits. If that's your preference, no problem. I like using both and I'm not an electrician. I've trained myself to be good at using wirenuts and I feel a sense of satisfaction from proper connections when using them. Electricians like Dustin and Bill (sparky channel) aren't limiting Wago's to light loads. My research tells me also that they are proven on 20 amp circuits and receptacles and run cooler than wire nuts in very excessive current tests. The 221-4×× series are rated for 20 amps and 12 gauge wire. The slightly larger 221-6×× series are rated for 30 amps and 10 gauge wire. European electricians have been using them for many years and the concern about them losing tension over time seems unfounded.
There's several videos of people running all of the common connectors to failure. They're running double the amperage, and more, to fail the connections. If you follow the manufacturers ratings you will be fine.
And the UL or whatever they call it these days test and approve everything electrical in the US.
I believe most people are using them on lighting because of the location, and because lights are changed more often than outlets. They're a natural fit. Meanwhile, being on the ground an experienced electrician can put in wire nuts easily and quickly. Plus an outlet or switch will probably only be changed every 10 years or longer.
Personally, I use them everywhere as the time savings are always worth it.
@@arthurmoore9488 Also, many (most?) light fixtures and fans have stranded wire and Wago is more secure than wire nut in this application. Many new lights now come with a Wago style connector.
I love the lever-style Wago's. They also easier and neater to fit in boxes as the wires are all in a line and can be folded up against the back.
221s are just the best
I'd used wirenuts for years. Right up until one of my wirenut connections corroded, broke, or slipped out enough to start an arc fire. Vaporized the wirenut plastic and then the hot wire shorted out to the metal enclosure. That fried some parts in my $1200 solar inverter! So it's Wagos for me 100% of the time. Yes, they are a bit more expensive, but peace of mind for a few dollars is priceless. I've also seen a case where somebody used a wirenut that was too big for the conductors, and the homeowner had no power downstream of that wirenut. Fortunately, there was no load on it, so it didn't arc.
I have seen wago's melt and nearly catch fire also .
13 years. At first I was resistant to lever nuts. Now I prefer them 110% over wire nuts.
As Wago's are slimmer (than round wirenut), I find them easier to fit into boxes (both fit, but less hassle)
Also wago allows wire to twist on its axle, while still holding good connection, where as wire nut keeps wire in place and does not allow it to move. This can cause wires to push out. Also what i have seen wire nuts wreck the ends of the wire so you cannot reuse wire ends that many times unlike with wago just open and shut again, barely any damage to wire. Again this depends on location, some work fine with nuts, but say you are connection multicore wire of led flood light to solid wire and we all know how durable those China flood light are, its better to use wagos as you will be replacing that light in future.
Thank you for explaining things in terms a complete layman can understand! I watched several of your videos and am very impressed by how easily I could understand things the way you explained them. I am a complete DIY person and have NEVER understood or enjoyed working with electricity but my wife and I recently purchased a duplex as a rental and I am now the resident "handyman" so I need to know a lot more than I did. Thankfully, people like you exist and I was able to learn a bunch of things I didn't know. Just last night I was able to rewire a standard duplex outlet and replace it with a GFCI outlet (in line with another). I wired it all correctly and it worked! I was also able to install/replace some new light fixtures and those all worked, too! I purchased a couple of new testers and grounded screwdrivers based on your explanations of what they do and why they are important so I can now at least confidently work with simple outlet and switch replacement and know I'm not going to electrocute myself! Thank you again for your videos. I have subscribed and will be watching more as time allows! Electric work still isn't my favorite, but I no longer fear or hate it like I used to. Sincere thanks to you!
WAGO's are fine to use. I imagine the old timers who used solder, rubber tape, and friction tape to splice with freaked out when "wire nuts" first came on the scene. In the 70's I was working in a house that was old then. The splices were made with porcelain wire nuts, I still have a few that I replaced with "modern" bakelite wire nuts. There will always be some new tool or material that comes out. This stuff is tested before it's released for use.
It's just not the old timers that freak out; it is also municipalities that need to update their codes. You would be amazed how many don't know about them and as such fail you come inspection.
I love actual Wago's...As it seems to have developed across most electricians, Wago's are great for lighting.
@@samspade5648 But every light fixture comes with free wire nuts? Beyond that tying grounds with the green hole thru wire nuts are the only time I typically use a wire nut.
100%
I do not think that modern wire nuts are made from bakelite at least the Ideal® ones don't seem like it.
@@robertopics They are not made of Bakelite. Bakelite was one of the first insulating products used for wirenuts. They are plastic now. used
The best video on this topic. Basically, they both work so use what you like best and use it according to the directions/specs.
Well said!
Thanks Dustin another great video! You are sure right about trying to push stranded into a Wago push-in connector, been there tried that. From my experience, the 221 lever nut series connectors work awesome on stranded. In fact, that's one of their marketing pitches, best for mixing stranded and solid.
Hey man, I work in a electrical supply house and I learn a ton of stuff when it comes to commercial and residential electrical work and I enjoy some of the videos u do that goes into explaining how somethings put together and how it works👍
5:20 dude, that arrow was awesome. I have not seen anybody do that and I love it.
Wire nuts damage the conductors, while Wagos do not. I've had to clip (shorten wires) after removing the wire nut because of "overly aggressive" twisting. Now, I always replace wire nuts with Wagos. They also take up less space in the box, making installation of new smart devices easier.
You’re not licensed an electrician,that’s goddamn sure.
@@kyzor-sosay6087 Here in Central Europe, everybody uses Wagos now. Even some knockoff ones (for lights). Actually twisted connections or wire nuts are considered as some kind of prehistoric hackwork (had only been used in early days, then screw connectors came along). Yet buildings here don't catch fire all the time.
@@JOHNZ476 House building in the US is about 20 years behind Germany.
I love the 221's. And looking on-line, it's hard to even find the push-types anymore. I'm a trained electronic technician who ended up doing a lot of electrical work in real life, including wiring several of my own homes. So I do a lot of "changes" that include re-wiring, and those 221's are a real time-saver.
One of the most applicable uses I've found is re-connecting two (or more) wires that have become a little too short after trimming damaged ends, where it's hard to get enough wire to actually twist. And they can be disconnected and re-connected without stressing the connections.
Great channel - just discovered you. I'll be back!
Thanks and welcome!
Was working on wiring for a car earlier today. Discovered this channel….found, watched, liked, followed, commented and turned on all notifications.
Done.
This is good stuff. Love his choice of “termage’s” as well. :)
Good timing with your video, I'm an M&E manager for a large uk main contractor and we currently have the irrigation contractor rewiring all his solenoid valve panels. We are not allowed to use wire nuts over here and the panels are from the US and everything is connected with wire nuts(no sympathy they never provided us with a Technical Submission) enjoy the content and seeing the difference between the UK and the US.
Not gonna lie, I wish I had wago’s years ago rather than twisting an endless number of wire nuts. It’s all we use now and I can tell you, after twisting a handful of wire nuts now I can still feel that pain going across my palm.
Great take on connector types and applications. I think light switches are a new compelling case for Wago's. More folks are looking to automate things in their homes and adding in smart switches is quite common. With the march of technology it's likely those switches would get replaced more often going forwards.
We use both and typically order them 100k+ at a time. The larger portion of what we do is LED lighting upgrades in commercial/industrial/mfg/retail spaces. Prepping first saves you about 30 seconds per fixture and really adds up over the course of a shift. The site we're currently working has 17k fixtures ranging from troffers, strips, sconces, cans, etc. Good prep work is the key to good production numbers.
I love that when you’re talking about wire nuts for residential part of your reasoning is, “…It’s solid. Unless I screwed something up.” That little bit of humility, just accepting that some days aren’t “A List” days. Everybody has a few “A Minus Days.” I like that you are human enough to accept that without need to dwell or rationalize.
Keep being awesome.
Cheers!
After avoiding them for years , I finally started using them. Now I use them almost exclusively, probably 10:1 over wirenuts.
I watch these videos every time one comes out. I would give a lot to join the local Electrician's Union. I can't afford the starting salary at this point in my life. 18 year old me would have been able to live high on the hog at starting apprentice wage. I wish I would have started when I was 18. They told us in the 90s that college was good and blue collar work was beneath us. Change your life, join a trade, make a difference in yours and other people's lives.
Amen! I wish I had a Time Machine and go back. The guys I go to hunting camp with are mostly electricians, my observation is that they all still love their career after 3 and 4 decades.
If you already have a license or are knowledgeable enough to test for, one the IBEW has a market recovery program that allows people to join without the need for going through the apprenticeship so maybe contact your local IBEW hall and have a conversation...it might work for you.
I've done electrical for 45 years and I don't like pre-twisting wires before installing the wire nut. But I do something many don't, I pay attention and watch the wires to be sure one does not slide down when putting the wire nut on, and I also tug on each wire after the wire nut is on, thousands of connections, NO failures! If I have to service or troubleshoot later, it is much faster/easier to separate the wires later, but a Wago would make this even easier.
When using wire nuts I was taught to twist stranded wires together or around a solid wire and lay solid wires side by side. No matter the wire used, I twist until there is 1 1/2 to 2 full twists in the insulation outside of the wire nut. I just started using Wagos for residential work, because I finally started running low on nuts.
I prefer crimp on wire nuts for any situation that may transmit vibration to my connections, such as motor connections like ceiling fans and AC compressors. I do this more in industrial settings than residential.
You do a great series of videos for those looking to learn the trade. Awsome content.
I do electrical work on conveyor systems/all stranded wire... and wire nuts are basically obsolete in our field. we've been using lever wagos for years..we work with controls not just power that we have to troubleshoot so the wagos are great for just pulling out one wire to swap it or tone it out. Wire nuts are fine if you use them right but when I got back over others work/or demo old installs I find more loose wire nuts than loose wagos. Also out of the thousands and thousands of wagos ive used ive only had two wagos malfunction/break on me.
Stranded conductors, conductors of different sizes, Wago’s are a godsend
The Wago connectors are UL tested for the loads they list. They have gone through extensive testing to categorically prove they can handle all of the loads they are listed for. The UL listing provides solid evidence that the Wago connectors have been extensively engineered to connect copper conductor for the loads they are designed to carry.
The myth that Wago connectors "heat up" is propagated by electricians who lack an engineering background.
I have had wire nuts fail repeatedly and I have had to fix sloppy electricians' work after the fact with twist wire nuts. I have also had shorts with twist wire connectors and they take a LOT more room in the box, and with smart outlets, that is a pain in the ass.
I have container of wirenuts that I use when practical and cost (they are cheap). But after trying/using WAGOs on my home renov, I will use up the nuts and stick with WAGO (I don't do commercial work so I'm not too concerned). They are great for limited space boxes too, since pigtailing in two recepts, their grounds, and neutrals, its so much easier.
Dustin, why are stab-type WAGO connectors fine but back-stabbing a receptacle is seen as an amateur thing to do? A listed receptacle should be absolutely safe and reliable if back-stabbed yet no professional does this. I've played it safe and always used the termination screws. Great video series!
Nailed it. People buy into the bull crap sales pitch of wagos and are lazy. Wagos are trash.
I am no expert but the difference I see is that most back-stab connectors on devices have only the spring tension that you push against as you push the wire in to hold the wire. I see that as inadequate. Wagos have the additional squeezing force brought on by pushing the lever down. Some better outlets have "stab in" connectors that are then tightened by turning a screw. I trust these as well.
@@tgeliot You need to re-read Paul's original question. He said stab-type WAGO, not lever-type WAGO.
@@Hidyman Thanks, I didn't realize that Wago made real stab type connectors. I thought the term was being used loosely here to include the lever kind.
The push in wire connectors are only good for smaller guage solid wire like #18 and #16 that would be used in fluorescent light fixtures. I use them for LED conversions in the fixtures where there is numerous wires to bundle together to make a pigtail for my hot side and the other side for my neutral side. They are great for that, just plug them in, but they do not accept stranded wire. They are not great for #14 or #12 because the larger size wire tends to rotate in the ports just like a push in on the back of a receptacle. Wagos clamp down onto the wire and can be used for both solid and stranded wire, however if you use a wire nut on a solid to stranded wire, twist your strands a little tighter together after stripping then just make sure you're using the correct size yet smallest wire nut that will fit and properly cover the connection, it will bite into both type conductors and make a secure connection. Too big wire nut will come loose. It's all about making sure you make a secure connection and using the correct size connector to hold them all together. I feel more secure making a good neat tight twist and using the correct size wire nut. I use push in connectors for LED Lighting conversions on fixtures that have smaller multiple wires. The only difference with Wagos is you can use them with stranded wire too and are reusable. I'm also sure over a period of time the clamping force will weaken too.
At my work we have started using Wagos because we use stranded wire. Twisting just rips up the strands if you undo the wire nuts.
There are two types wagos we use the type with lever to lock the wire inside.
The wago lever nuts are pretty good, ill use them in areas that might need to be taken apart again for service. I wouldnt use the regular stab in syle, I've seen them fail aswell as back stab outlets and switch. TBH I'm more of a tan twisters and 3m wire nut kinda electrical though. I do keep my electrical boxes clean neat and most importantly serviceable. I'm mostly a service electrician so I'm always following other people's bad ideas or getting to see how others really impressive work and have developed my favorite style over the years.
My thoughts exactly specially since wagos make dealing with stranded-solid wire connections easier.
You ain't been servicing enough then. There is one wirenut above all of the others. 3m, Buchanon, twisters will all tear your fingers up after all day of nuttin. The plain Jane smooth ideal red nuts are far and away the most superior. Most torque, if needed, most comfortable (gorilla nuts don't even come close), most robust nut. Yes I know your precious tan twisters take a 5/16 but.... no. Also those failed port connectors you see are just installed incorrectly. Try them out, install them correctly you will have zero problems.
@@shadygunshow maybe not.
@@shadygunshow yeah I've been working as an electrician for 10 years. I've found that I'm always adapting to new products. I use my linemens for just about everything other than twisting two #14 or smaller conductors. Can't say I've had my soft purse carrying hand too beat up from twisting on some wirenuts. 🤣
I never realized it til you said it, but since I do mostly remodel work and service work, I feel the same way. See the old ways of doing things, see bad electrical work, see immaculate impressive work, and take it all and learn from all of it. It really does shape how you learn, adapt and evolve your style.
Recently started using Wago instead of soldering for certain small projects to make change outs easier, wagos and similar connectors are definitely helpful.
Against the NEC to solder wires. Especially any ground wires.
@@JohnThomas-lq5qp As i said small projects, i doubt those rules apply to things like power banks, solar light modifications etc.
@@DigitalIP Code ( NEC ) usually pertains to just about anything supplied by utility, wind, solar power etc in residential, Industrial & commercial settings. Low voltage wire in class 2 ( limited power ) setting mostly likely soldering permitted. Code might be afraid that in the event of a high current fault ( short circuit ) that the solder cod melt causing the appliance, tool, etc to loose the ground connection posing a dangerous condition. Sure cheating lack of quality control communist china does not abide by this. If wrong flux is used to solder it could be corrosive causing problems later on. There has to be at least 5 different types of solder such as 40/60, 50/50, 60/40. At least one has a fairly low melting point to aid in soldering. All of my solder is single & multi core rosin core that I purchased back in the 1970's when lead was not banned yet. Know they banned lead solder for potable water in early 80's but not sure if they outlawed lead for soldering wires. Selrombreak out my Weller 100/140 watt soldering gun or 25 watt soldering irons but was lucky to solder think it was 17 boards when I completed a Healtkit 25" color TV, tube & transistor tester, oscilloscope and a radio 45 years ago.
@@JohnThomas-lq5qp Yeah i was referring to projects that deal with 5v-12v power, not 120v-240v etc kinda stuff.
I actually have been waiting for you to do this kind of video. I've seen a lot of hype on Wagos and wire nuts. Nice to have an opinion from a more trusted source.
Personally I love wagos for most applications, especially when doing circuit testing/troubleshooting
That’s my preferred use, nothing beats having a fully functional circuit that I can test and modify by just lifting a lever and moving connections around.
Damn, bro. Your channel makes me want to go back and get into electrical work.
I went to school for IT and work today as a network engineer, but electrical work sounds like all the great things I loved about working on networks and phones.
Have to say you explain things very well, love code time breakdown great channel!!
I agree. They both work when used properly. I've used both. I will say that it's easier to add or remove or troubleshoot circuits with wagos. My boss pays for wire nuts so that's what i use mainly.
" They both work when used properly. " and that's kinda the problem isn't it? WAGOS are hard to screw up. Wire nuts are so easy to screw up you always screw them on.
i always think of lever nut, or wago's as unmounted bus bars for lower current devices
I connected my points to my WAGYU beef in a junction box and it worked cooked my beef very nicely! I LOVE USING WAGYU not a fan of nuts.
Finally! An expert opinion on those
wagos! It seemed as if it was for DIYers only 🤣
I threw away all my wirenuts. I stopped using Push Connectors as well. I only use Lever Connectors now. Quick and Easy, and takes up less space in a box.
The push in Wagos are even smaller. I connect my ground wires together in one wago and the neutrals in another wago and push them deep in the box. The levered ones are a bit thicker.
Love wago's for residential and personal projects. Especially for anything that you know you might take apart again. Just recently used them to put in the outlets on remodel that were going to need to removed when the walls were finished but that was going to be delayed for a few months. I always use them for lights. Usually for outlets but I use nuts as well.
Other thing I like is that the wire can spin in the wago when cramming it in the box, making it a little easier to do with a lot of wires. While it generally isn't an issue, with a wire nut I've had wires come loose that felt solid but got loose when cramming everything into the box. One in a 5 wire neutral bundle took year to fail and was a little hard to figure out where the failure happened as the wire still looked like it was in the nut with the others.
Seems like a waste money to pay for a box of WAGOS when every new light fixture already comes with wire nuts... The only other time I use a wire nuts is tying grounds together where I prefer the hole through green wire nuts. Outlets are designed to daisy chain wires tying up to 4 hots and 4 neutrals at a time and dimmer switches also come with wire nuts. Simply, there is no need to purchase wire nuts or waygos... in my experience my collection of wire nuts tends to grow over time...
@@ericfraser7543 You use them because they are a lot easier to use. Lot easier to get things attached one handed and a lot easier to replace things. Obviously they aren't needed, just about ease and preference. I probably wouldn't use them if it was someone else's property. As for all the extra wire nuts, I started putting those in the trash with the other packaging long ago.
@@curtisbme Not much easier, how long does it take you to screw on a wire nut? Do you use those push in connectors on the back of outlets they are easier too? As a homeowner doing my own wiring I am too cheap plus I already have a lifetime supply of wire nuts on hand... not paying $20 for 25 Waygos when wire nuts are free, don't even trust them... if I were an electrician, probably not worth it either they get paid by the hour and Waygos come out of their materials cost so it would have to be a huge time savings... when they start packaging the Chinese ones free with my light fixture I will start using them...
@@ericfraser7543 I'd never use push in because they aren't easier if might need to take it apart as you'd need to cut them apart. And it is absurd to say you don't trust this UL listed product that has been in heave use for decades and say instead you would if they start packing "chinese ones free".
But not sure why you are spending so many words on something you refuse to try. You aren't going to change my mind or anyone else's with your opinion that applies to you and a product you haven't used. If you don't want to try them, no worries, don't.
@@curtisbme I saw the Chinese ones on Amazon, a lot cheaper than the WAYGOs brand probably a reason for that... Those push in connectors on the back of outlets are junk and are UL rated too... I think wire nuts are a better connection for a high current application. I have no doubt that they are convenient and safe, perhaps if I had a light I was always swapping out... even then don't want to go out of my way when I have wire nuts on hand. Its like propress vs soldering pipes... I am not willing to pay 20X the price just because it is a little more convenient, I am cheap...
I just started using Wagos recently and am glad I found out about them. The last time I used wire nuts was when replacing tail lights on my trailer which was such a PITA. Wire nuts to the landfill.
Well I'm glad you did this video. I didn't know such a thing existed. I'm going to go look at them there wagos and see how they work. My wrist gives me fits now twisting like I have my whole life. I'll bet those will be a game changer for me. Thanks.
Honestly I'm surprised that the trademark for "wire nut" is still valid, since even people well outside of the electrician field of work know what a wire nut is, but don't differentiate branding. Definitely a good candidate for a genericized trademark.
Agreed, I heard in Canada they are referred to as a marrette
@@timothyjewett625 Canadian here, we call them marrettes after the inventor of wire nuts, Marr who was from Toronto. Ideal was smart to trademark a shorter name for twist on wire connectors. 👍
I did not know that! Toronto born and raised here 🇨🇦.chalk another invention up for Canada
Per the NEC they're referred to as Terminal Connectors.
@@timothyjewett625 I'm pretty sure Marrette is also a trademarked name, just a different brand than Wirenut. That said, I only knew them as Marrettes until I started seeing all these videos disparaging them.
I also really like wagos when I'm combining stranded and solid. I commonly use both. No preference as to ones always better than the other. Just whatevers handy and fast
His videos are better than any school. This is great knowledge.
As a residential landlord, I wish electricians would always use WAGO lever nut connectors in residential. I can assure you that switching out old outlets, switches, and light fixtures is more common than you think, and it's MUCH easier with WAGOs. Whenever I encounter wire nuts I snip them out and replace them with WAGOs.
I'm a no pre-twist (like it says on the box/listing) wire nut guy, but even I carry a pack of wago lever nuts. Those things are so handy when you're working with existing wires that were left too short!
Also great code time section. Didn't know about the twist requirement for soldiering!
While you may not pretwist before putting on the wire nut, you should be twisting the wires using the wire nuts. They put the wings on them to enable getting enough torque to twist the heavier gauge wires.
@@wingerrrrrrrrr Doesn't twist the wires INSIDE the wire nut though, only that outside of the wire nut.
@@andyfletcher3561 it should twist inside if torqued enough while holding the wires at the base of the wire nut. If it's just screwed on lightly they may not twist.
@@wingerrrrrrrrr If you twist it so much it twists the wires inside, they are going to poke through the top.
love the wago for my service tech job when many wires are under one connection. makes it great for troubleshooting only having to remove 1 wire at a time rather than the whole joint
I would like to thank you for excellent info. I'm a maintenance tech that has a low knowledge of electrical and items that are available. I am careful and enjoy your channel.
All of your points are logical, thank you. One attribute of wire nuts that wasn’t mentioned is they’re much cheaper than wagos so I would think that plays in too, on a big job. I use both as well, depending on the circumstance along the same lines as you.
Dustin, thank you. I was an early adopter (spent a good chunk of my time in Europe) and have fought this one with my brothers (never a sister, female electricians tend to be more pragmatic) for a number of years.
To me, it makes sense to use the connector which gives the most reliable connection under less than ideal conditions. That's just my preference, but Wago shines there and wirenuts don't always.
I don't trust them for sustained high current applications. they have a smaller contact area, I'm also reaching the age where I'm close to graduating from having changed out dozens of failed stab connections to hundreds.
@@kenbrown2808 Not all stab connectors are made equal. Wagos ARE reliable. Whenever somenoe complains about failed Wago, it always turned out it was not a Wago.
@@neplatnyudaj110 I still don't trust them for sustained high current. and in fact, Wago 222s are rated for 20A, maximum. the wire nuts I use don't have their own current rating, because they don't have to carry the current.
@@kenbrown2808 Wago 222 is rated for 32A. But I don't see how that could be a limitation since you can't put in a wire which could safely carry more.
@@neplatnyudaj110 the stat I looked up was apparently for the 222-413 maybe they have a higher rated 222.
Wago are superior. They are faster to apply, take less space and when more than 2 wires joined they are more sure. Wago makes disassembly easier and the wires are nice and straight when after disassembly. Wago works with dissimilar gauges and both stranded and solid. The only things in wire nut favor is price and wet application. I value my time more than the price difference.
BTW 1st encountered wire nuts in the 1960s and thought they were new because dad brought home IDEAL plastic wire nuts. Then I found porcelain wire nuts in my 1929 house.
Excellent exposition of the pros and cons of wire connectors in practical applications! Ole'
As a DIYer and a cheapskate I was all for wire nuts. Except that as my project progressed I found I was screwing up and needed to disassemble connections to diagnose problems and test circuits. Decided to bite the bullet and get Wagos, which have been a godsend. I buy the 10-pack of 5 position and the 50-pack of 3 position, which are the most practical and versatile. The only difficulty was getting 12ga stranded in--anything else is fine. I only use wire nuts in 2 or 3-wire connections where there is lower probability of having to take it apart and/or where there is plenty of wire so I can cut and re-strip without worrying about short wires.
I use the stabs for short wires. Aside from that, they seem to allow too much movement for my taste. And they cost a damn fortune.
LOL! Love you dustin! such a cool video. the europeans are ahead of us in termination practices.... I perfere using the wago caps as we have been using wirecaps forever. Ideal caps are also a solution as both Ideal and Wago off a quicker method of termination. plus the Wagos are ajustable and easily removed as needed. if you watch any of the european electricians on RUclips you'll see how european wiring is done. they have a nicer system in some ways and I think the US industry should adopt some of their practices.... they use terminal strips instead of caps and since Wagos are from Europe, thats the starting place for those wiring devices.... its just a cleaner install.....
Cleaner and they hold up better in less than ideal situations.
@@ethelryan257 Yup, I'd use those first over wirenuts if They were more readily available. Home Depot sells the Ideal Brand and I'm sure Lowes does also. I love the Wago design as they are removable with a flick of the lever.... nice Item!
I learned about WAGOs and got the 221 series kit. I love it especially for some problem boxes that had a total of 5 sets of 12/3 wires going into it. Sure a wire nut or two was fine with the conventional light switch that took up less space, but swapping out toggle lights with dimmers, timers, or smart controls, you really need to easily press the neutrals and grounds to the back of the box, and out of the way, and not fight what is essentially a 5AWG twisted strand
This is one of be biggest benefits of WAGOs in my opinion, it's so much easier to fold up neatly against the back of the box because the wires are in a line and not all twisted up!
Just stumbled across your channel. I’m glad I did. Great work!
I love my wagos. Especially for the old metal boxes in m house that are barely big enough for the device. They are so much more compact than wire nuts. I use the 221 lever nuts. The push in connectors are trash
Still doing wirenuts with pretwist for general use, as I feel it makes the strongest connection and good price doesn't hurt. Wago lever nut is respectable though and can use where change is likely, space is tight, or in a hurry. But I have too many years of seeing failed push-in connectors to want to use those.
Right but Wago lever nuts aren't the same as push-in connectors. The lever locks down the wires so that it doesn't come off like push-ins do.
Killed it man! Been using both in the field and loved to see the pros and cons to better use my tools. Ps I want to see a solar video! Think it would help out the industry.
How about for DIY'ers? As a DIY'er, I prefer Wago's because I don't have to worry as much about whether I made a good connection when I'm installing a receptacle or something. It's either in the hole and clamped, or it's not (and you can turn it over and confirm the wire went all the way through).
Yes.
Not all Wago's are created equally. Push-in is much different than lever-nuts. That being said, if the temp rating is good, lever-nuts are the way to go.
My take. The company I worked for for 35 years (pre-covid) makes Industrial machines and motor controllers. What we found is that if you are pulling current through a Wago connector, especially a Wago spring connector, that over time the high current draw will heat and weaken the spring and eventually cause a bad connection, which of course sets in motion a descending spiral failure. Wago gets hot, loosens connection, which causes a worse connection, which makes it hotter, and worse, and so on until things turn black and crispy and quit working... EVEN if the current draw was within the rating of the connector. It just could not handle big (1/2 horse or more) motor in rush currents and heavy draws.... because of this we went back to screw down phoenix connectors and connector blocks in our machinery and field installations. NOW, with that being said, Wago connectors are just fine in lower current situations - Lighting, known current circuits, etc. I prefer the lever versions over the spring connectors simply because of this experience. Just make sure the connectors you use are rated for at least 20-30% more current than the circuit will draw at MAX and you'll be fine.
With that being said, nothing beats the connection of a pre twisted wire nut. However, the Wago DOES have its applications, no doubt,
What you're saying is the reason the rest of the world moved more away from screw connections and wirenuts, and over to cage clamp connections.
What does the wire nut manufacturer say about pre-twisting for a wire nut? Hint, not best practice. This from Ideal instruction sheet:
"Pre-twisting acceptable, but not required. For pre-twisting; strip wires long, hold wires together with insulation even, twist wire ends together, trim to recommended strip length."
Bill from Sparky Channel here !!! ( love that guy )
Yeah, I've learned a lot from him. Bill and Dustin are the best electrical you tubers to learn from, IMO.
Now do you think the ideal push-ins are the same quality of a wago?
Seems if you want to fine tune the debate, wire nuts, wagos (lever) and push ins
I think the wago LEVER nuts are best in comparison to ideal push'ins.
All these electricians swearing wagos will burn down the country would lose their entire minds if they ever looked inside an elevator controller.
The la rams stadium is electrically built on wagos.. I know first hand 😂
I am a maintenance guy for apartments and work alone so when I have limited room and space I used wagons to hook up a light switch on off on a ceiling fan. Only have 2 hands so used a bungee wrapped around the fan blades to hold the base to attach
GreatScott! did an excellent shootout between Wago lever nuts and twist nuts, including pull-out force and electrical resistance. Twist nuts won just about every category but ease of use. The difference in electrical resistance is a nothingburger unless your specific application will handle heavy current, like a kitchen range or a clothes dryer.
Absolutely no need to pre-twist the wires. If you twist wire nuts properly, they will twist the wires for you. With solid core wires on both sides, you line them up, the ends of both are caught together, twist until the exposed insulator is twisted, and you have a solid, well-twisted connection within the nut. If you're connecting stranded wire to solid, you want the stranded wire to be slightly proud of the solid so that it will be twisted around the solid wire and the nut bites into both conductors.
And you have completely omitted the in-life maintenance issue where a wire nut is removed and has been seen to have left marks into the copper conductor, and the correct procedure is to throw the wire nut away and trim back the conductor and insulation so that a new wire nut can be fitted on to pristine conductor, thus shortening the length of wire present.
This problem does not exist with Wago's.
So was that an accidental oversight or intentional?
@@deang5622 This is precisely why code requires a minimum amount of excess wire accessible at the fixture on new construction: so that when you need to replace fixtures you still have enough wire to cut back and re-strip.
Lever nuts also bite into the conductor to make a mechanically secure connection, so even if you can re-use the lever nuts you should still be trimming and stripping the wire. Only real difference is you're re-using a piece that has a much higher up-front cost rather than replacing a cheap, reliable, time-tested, but ultimately expendable piece.
I suppose another factor to consider is how many times you expect to replace the fixture over the life of the structure. The lever nuts require less exposed copper, so you don't have to cut back as much, and as I said at the beginning of my previous comment, the higher resistance of the lever nuts is negligible with most modern light fixtures. They also make it convenient for homeowners to DIY. So...both have trade-offs, and that's why both are available.
@@petersage5157 No lever nuts don't bite into the conductor.
If you remove a Wago in the correct way, then it is possible to firstly re-use the Wago and reuse the length of bare conductor.
WAGO every single time
@Baljdeep Invajuna typo ? Or does that mean something
This is thoroughly good, Dude. Great presentation.
tried Wagos last summer when I had to change a security light for the 5th time in 10 years. Made the job go faster, and will be less of a pain when I have to change the light again.
today is the first time Ive used the wago connectors was today, I really like them they are easy to use and let you see clearly if you've got a good connection and you can take them off if you need to re do something. They are great if you dont have enough wire to bring them close enough to get a good reliable connection. Im not an electrician so anything that makes it easy and more reliable for people like me is awesome. They are more expensive but for someone who uses them infrequently well worth the cost.