Bykski now has an Active Backplate cooler as well. Meaning a nickel plate block that goes on the back of a 3080/3090 as well as the front. Good looking and good for cards with back side memory chips: amzn.to/2R8wYmi
VERY interesting, thanks for the heads up! I have a GIGABYTE 3090 and I just got my bykski set, but I wasn't ware of the active backplate. Since I game AND mine (to make back what I spent on the GPU - I got it at MSRP, and that was still obscenely expensive!) VRAM back side temps is a major issue. I'll have to see whether I can get the backplate on its own from aliexpress. ALSO: I wonder whether I have to get a gigabyte compatibile backplate.
@@rather-reverend I don't think you will have to get a gigabyte specific backplate. That is just a guess but the majority of my 3080 anyway is pretty similar to reference design. It is just those power connectors that are not. And while the backplate I have has a cut out for those power connectors, it actually doesn't need to since the connectors are on the front side of the card.
@@kodysoles9912 i don’t have it and can’t buy it separately. So I’d have to buy the full active block just to get that… can’t justify that right now. Bykski are you listening? 😂
That "better machining" on the VRM blocks are fly cutter marks - big broad-area cutter. That would've been the top of the machined piece, and it's one consistent cut over the whole part that buzzes the whole surface at once. The rougher marks in the lower areas is inconsistent speeds with an endmill. So it's not "better" in that it was done to a higher quality or anything, just a far simpler cut to do.
I looked up RUclips what the experience is with water-cooling a 3080 just out of curiosity and your video was surprisingly well put together and answered all my questions. Good content! I already thought coming into this that watercooling a 3080 likely not worth it, and I see that's confirmed, it's more of a cool factor or just to see if you can type of thing and if you got the extra money to throw away. But it's still cool to see :)
Great video. Very comprehensive. I was fortunate to be able to purchase the same card and I'm glad there is a decent block available for it. Bykski also has a digital display module that fits on the block. It looks cool, though I don't know how practical it will be.
Haven’t seen that yet. I’m not much of a fan of screens for the sake of screens (I say as I have four full monitors hooked up) but for some builds that would be cool. I don’t need the active backplate they have now but I like the look of it, kind of wish it had been available when I bought this block. 👍🏻👍🏻
Right on!!! Was just looking into this block last night and here you are with a phenomenal video on the whole experience with it , I’m a complete beginner when it comes to Liquid cooling , I’ve always used AIOs but with you showing the setup of the block makes me feel more confident on trying a custom loop on my build soon enough!
Glad to be of help. Custom loops are fun snd rewarding, just take your time and they aren’t too difficult. Plenty of great information available. Good luck with yours. 👍🏻👍🏻
Don't be put off by the lack of instructions, if you purchase directly from Bykski the instructions are included in a factory sealed package... actually most of their items are double boxed....This is a reseller problem, not a Bykski problem.
@@martinpalmer6203 I purchased from the Bykski store on Amazon. So unless that is a reseller claiming to be Bykski, it was Bykski. If it is a reseller claiming to be Bykski, they should be taking issue with that to protect their brand.
Same water block works for the v2 of the gigabyte rtx 3080 oc gaming waterforce wb 10gb! Especially being that gigabyte forgot to mention thier stock water block was aluminum 😮! Thanks for the vid keep up the great clips! Wish i found this much sooner!
I recently got into custom water cooling. I have the thermaltake core p3 case mounted to my wall. I have no current of airflow with this case unless I have my ceiling fan on lol. Water-cooling my gou and CPU would be a big improvement. For my specific setup and I'm very excited for when everything finally comes in. Great video
You can shunt mod the high hash rate 3080 8+8 pin and use a custom BIOS to unlock it's power limits quite a bit. I forget what the 2 accomplish. But it went from 320 watts up to 360 watts (if I recall). I believe at 1440p and 4K benchmarks the guy was gaining 10-14 fps in games. (Not sure in production). He was running it on air too. So imagine your waterblock. You could see an uplift of 20 fps in gaming and much better performance in production software. However..... The time, effort, money for parts etc, you may as well sell your 3080 and buy a 7900XT(X) or a 4080 16GB.
I went to a 3090ti a bit ago. Reliable performance is more important as this is primarily a work computer. The only real reason I even moved to the 3090ti isn’t the performance gain but rather the memory. This 3080 10g was running out of VRAM and crashing while decoding H.265 5.8k video. The 3090ti doesn’t even break a sweat while using over 16GB of VRAM.
I don't know how you don't have 100k + subs yet. Super informative, I've been looking since forever for a video showing close up of theses blocks. Thank you
Really good video. 1 little detail: the big issue on the 3080/90 is the vram temp, not so much gpu. On my 3080 i was all comfy with 60ish °C, then I found out that on some games my vram was hitting 98°C. Wouldve been nice to tell difference there aswell with this particular block. But still, very informative intel on the block, thanks!
There are two problems with the VRAMs - bad thermal pads and no thermal pads on the backplate side. The best test was actually mining ETH. Before - 110°C and thermal throttling, after replacing old thermal pads and putting new between backplate - 96°C (+750 MHz on MEM) at 27-ish °C ambient. While gaming they don't go above 90°C anymore.
so not really a huge impact from water to air - been thinking about getting a block with the 3080 or finding the 3080 water block model. I think the 3080 gb card just keeps cooler than the rest in other benchmarks I've seen. This was helpful!
This particular card also has a lower wattage bios than other 3080s. I’m going to flash a higher wattage bios and retest (water cooled only, not gonna put the air cooler back). That may make a larger impact. We shall see.
Blame the US reseller for lack of instructions, I purchase direct from Bykski via Alidirect and they include instructions. Purchase via Aliexpress is often a lot cheaper than Amazon as well
And it only takes months for things to come in on average. With little buyer protection for US buyers. I just bought a couple things off AliExpress last week, estimate delivery is September. I’ll pay $20 more to get an item in a timely manner from a company that I know I can return it at dozens of local places for an immediate refund if there is any issue.
Also you realize AliExpress isn’t the official store location of most companies? The chances you are buying from a reseller there are extremely high as well. I constantly see two different stores claiming they are the “REAL xyz brand”.
3:31 I think the tooling marks in the water channel actually helps increasing the contact surface! 9:05 oh, very beautiful - so much shorter now 9:43 I like it the other way around, bcz gravity helps to lower pump rpm 13:13 haha, again not worth it 😅
I'm about to order a bykski for my xxx 5700xt thicc III cause it is running 98-102. T junction temps in my 303c case. Gpu blows how air onto the glass and half of it gets recirculated through the card. Hoping it works cause I dont want to buy a new card until the next gen amd and I havent played with water cooling since my q6600 days. Thanks for the review
It surprises the hell out of me that there are people going to the lengths that have no idea about the real heat issue with these cards. Its not the gpu at all. Its the vram. This guy put no pads on his backplate. On load I bet he is in the 90+C range. Come back and show us your junction or hot spot temps please.
I posted an earlier comment but I think the included link to a diagram about my question, so it might have been automodded. If you intentionally removed my comment, I apologize! In any case, I purchased a 3090 with an AIO already attached. The waterblock is identical to the one you have shown here. However, there are some discrepancies. The person I purchased the block off of had thermal pads installed in the grooves of the water block (above the voltage regulators). I noticed the stock cooler in your teardown also had thermal pads on these voltage regulators, but did not install them on the waterblock. Are they truly not required with this water block? The previous owner also installed thermal pads along a bunch of the grooves on the backplate. Were any present in your install? I realize I will have to use 2mm pads for the additional memory chips on the back of the 3090, but were there any pads on the backplate of yours? Cheers and thanks in advance
This block didn’t come with any pads for the backplate or for those chokes you are referencing. This was about as early of a block release as there was. I’ve been wanting to disassemble it and reinstall with thermal Pads in those locations to see how much of a difference it makes. My 3080 doesn’t have backside RAM chips so that will likely be marginal, but your 3090 you should absolutely use them. Or consider the active backplate even.
I’ve been meaning to do exactly that for quite some time. I looked into it and my card has the really “low” wattage bios so I need to step it up to see some gains. Just moved so I haven’t had time for projects like that though. Soon.
I bought the Bykski N-GV3090GMOC-TC version for the RTX 3090 Gigabyte Vision OC had an issue with the included thermal pads, they were too thick at 2mm (1.8mm). I tried 1.5mm thermalright pads and those were too thick so I had to finally go 1mm on the memory and 1.5mm on everything else. Not sure how it worked out differently.
@@kyleloh6237 lowest temps I got was 37C gpu and 72C memory with room temperature at 25C with 2x360mm + 240mm radiators. It depends on setup. There is no way to discern front and back memory temperatures unless using thermal imaging camera on the back plate or thermal probe sensor.
I have the same card. Just ordered a custom loop for gpu only. 280mm x 45mm thich rad and good pump/reservoir. My card gets about 70-72 on air with fanspeed at 62%. -It really is possible to undervolt this card with latest msi afterburner. I did it with 1950mhz and 500mhz on mem@ 975mv. It is an overclock and undervolt at the same time. But results vary by card and bios. I am really interested to get this card in the 50s celcius range but with lowest possible fanspeed for good silent noise as the gpu is the only thing now making noticeable noise at full load. Tested a game like marvels avengers which pushes the card at 99/100% most of the time. On air I get 72c with 62%fan speed. So my goal is to reduce the temps down to 50's something. My rad is alphacool xt45. Which is 45mm thick. But now I see that the wateblock from bykski is not that good. But I still have some hopes to reduce temps down with lower or similar noise. What do you think??
Great video, thanks. One major question though. I right now have that exact waterblock in hand, ready to be put on my RTX 3080Ti , and I am noticing that this waterblock does not provide contact for the two rows of those gray 'R15' components. The stock cooler definitely does, and there are pads for those R15s. I looked up the Bitspower and Barrow blocks, they both do provide cooling for those. In your video, you clearly skip those How has this setup been holding up? Any adverse effects from not cooling these pieces? Thanks.
I really cannot say long term how it is / will be. However my card has been running smoothly and happily since install. I recently installed a 5950X and brought the cooling system load up overall and the GPU still sits happily and stable at the temps I quoted here. I have been meaning to flash a higher wattage bios on the card, and wonder if that won't show some weak points, but I haven't had time to do that properly / test it so I have held off. The lack of cooling for all the components cooled by factory is mildly concerning to me, so I may eventually switch blocks, but for the moment I'm satisfied.
@@MandicReally did you ever find a compatible unlocked, or higher watt bios? i have the same card and same block (+ active backplate) and I want to avoid shunt modding it if I can
The reason why I am avoiding the Bykski, Barrow and Alphacool blocks is that they completely ignore the 4 diodes near the video connectors. They are cooled by the original air cooler and Just noticed that they are cooled my the Bitspower cooler that is available for this card.
@8:00 you can see it didn’t have thermal pads or contact there. Maybe I was supposed to install a pad there? Lack of instructions doesn’t help there. There are 5 diodes there on this card. I can see where the stock cooler hit it. I’d have to disassemble the block / card to check if it needs contact there or not.
@@MandicReally on alphacool, I look through the install directions to see that they are also missing those diodes. I saw another bykski install video where he complains about this in the comments section. I found a US seller that has the bitspower block in stock and they only have 2. titanrig if you are curious. I did confirm that the Bitspower cools those diodes by checking out the installation directions online. You didn't miss anything, the waterblock makers did.
@@Lexicon_ they were not there 8 months ago when I filmed this video. I can’t update review videos when things change down the line. Not including a QR code or URL to the instructions (or printed instructions) would still constitute a poor experience.
Hi! What is the GDDR6X temperature after installing the water block? After all, as you know, the memory is the hottest place on the 3080/3090 My MSI 3080 Ventus heated the memory to 96 degrees in the air. After installing the water block, the drop is not large, only 10 degrees, it became 86
I don’t have before temps but mine is sitting at 80C after about 1 hour of running Unigine Heaven. My GPU is only pulling 330W though (must be the 325W bios). I’m going to flash my bios up and do a video about doing so, I’ll include those temps in that one.
@@MandicReally i think waterblock manufacturer need to pay more attention to the vram temps they have to make some kind of microfin on it and make the thermal pads way thinner than thin enough that user can op to use thermal paste for even better vram temp
@@MandicReally I see you mentioning to put a different BIOS on this card throught the comments several times. Have you already done that? Would be interesting if that was possible. Thanks in advance
@@MandicReally Side note, wouldn't recommend linking to n_howe seller listings. Dude's been taken down off Amazon like 3 times for being sketchy as hell.
Dude, 2700X with a 3080????? Please tell me you at least upgraded to 5800X at this point. I personally went from a 2700X->3900X->5800X all on the same X470 Asrock board, and the speed difference between the them was pretty huge. Even going from 12 cores to 8 cores, the (much) faster clocks on the 5800X made up the difference when compiling large programs. At full throttle the 3900X would cap out at 3.99Ghz all cores, while the 5800X is at 4.6-4.8Ghz all cores depending on the temps in the room. Running this on air cooler (Noctua NHD15). I think it helps that my 5800X is apparently a golden sample according to Ryzen clock tuner. In the games that I play, especially anything that's CPU bound single threaded like older games (quake live, vkquake etc), I've gotten another 150fps.
By my measurements they are 1.85mm thick, so I'm assuming they are what would be sold as "2mm" pads. I think I may order some 3mm pads and see if I can put them between the card and backplate.
I did not. I actually discussed that when filming but this video was getting too long so I had to cut it. None of the thermal pads provided reached the backplate. So I would have had to double them up or get new thicker ones. It was clearly not meant to be done. At least on my card which doesn't have backside memory chips it wasn't. A card with backside memory chips would likely be a different story.
@@MandicReally Huh. Very interesting. I've already replaced the backside pads on my card with stock cooling, and I'll be looking at what I need to do with the new backplate. I HOPING that the backplate tolerances are designed to cool a 3090 - otherwise I may actually have to mount the old backplate. If you mine on a 3090 (and even at MSRP it's hard to justify money if you don't!), backplate contact us not an option.
@@rather-reverend I'm fairly sure the thermal pads provided would work with a 3090 having back memory chips. They just didn't for me with a lack of any backside components. I order 3mm pads to try and put them on anyway to offer any additional cooling I can get. I'll likely do a follow up video on that as I intend to flash my BIOS for a higher power limit and am worried about the memory when I do.
I really closer to pulling the trigger for my 3080 Eva edition, but I really want the one with the active backplate... Looking back now how's this system block performing?
I never ran into any cooling issues in anyway. I just took this card & block out last week for a 3090Ti, but never had any issues. I didn't watch memory temps like a hawk, but never saw any throttling in any of my testing. If you are not running a 3090 (non-Ti) an active backplate is overkill I think. The 3080 & 3090Ti don't have back memory chips that need cooling. To add a little cooling you could always put some thermal pads behind the memory chips on the passive backplate. I had intended to do that but am just going to sell my Card with the block most likely now.
@@MandicReally thanks so much for the reply. My thought process as well, but I'm also going for a bit for enthusiasm as well, I may do two EKWB flt120 with different coloured loops rather than 1 flt360. Or invest in a double sided waterblock. So I'm thinking of either going EKWB one sided or Bykski Double sided.... Only because they are the same price here in Canada.... 369$ for EKWB Velocity and 349$ for the Bykski Sandwiched.
Hour of Unigine looping they hit 80C. I’m going to be applying thermal pads to the back of the card to see if the backplate helps any. Then flashing the BIOS to a higher wattage one (I’ve discovered this card is a 330W bios) and see what happens. Look for a video soon.
Not for me no. We are allowed to work on and repair our electronics, if it causes a failure then it voids the warranty. So a water leak would, sure. Otherwise, no they cannot void my warranty just for swapping the cooler. Doesn't mean they won't or find some other way to deny it, but legally just doing this doesn't void the warranty, no.
What combination do you run? Ryzen 5000 series were very difficult to get when I put this setup together so I didn't upgrade from the CPU I've had for years. Would you pass up the oppurtunity to buy a 3080 for $800 becuase "The CPU combo would be stupid"? Or just get it and upgrade CPU later? The GPU isn't bottlenecked by the CPU. Sure a better CPU would pick up more perofmrance of course but the GPU isn't being throttled by the CPU. If you think it is you need to learn a lot more about what Bottlenecking really is.
@@MandicReally in 1440p it will bottleneck, ryzen 5000 series is wide avaliable and is not overpriced at all. Merging el cheapo cpu with high end gpu is just silly.
@@akcesoriumpc6421 cool this video went up 4 months ago when no one had inventory of the 5000 series. I do video creation and 3D modeling so the 5950X makes the most sense for me, but I can’t justify the $800 price tag right now. So do I spend half that much on a stop gap upgrade? Currently I’ve decided on waiting for the Zen 3 Threadripper CPUs to launch. So again, spending $4-800 to upgrade now doesn’t make sense if I know my setup works well enough for now and a new upgrade is out there on the horizon.
@@akcesoriumpc6421 also I bought the 2700X when it was brand new. Calling it “El Cheapo” is insulting and silly. Today’s high end will always be tomorrow’s lower end. That’s life. Not all of use can afford to or justify upgrading with every new release.
Ahh yes the internet/armchair PC builder who obviously knows everything from his google searches and forum browsing. Why are there so many of these people lol, even in the car community you've got know-it-alls despite never having owned/built a car in their life.
Bykski now has an Active Backplate cooler as well. Meaning a nickel plate block that goes on the back of a 3080/3090 as well as the front. Good looking and good for cards with back side memory chips: amzn.to/2R8wYmi
VERY interesting, thanks for the heads up! I have a GIGABYTE 3090 and I just got my bykski set, but I wasn't ware of the active backplate. Since I game AND mine (to make back what I spent on the GPU - I got it at MSRP, and that was still obscenely expensive!) VRAM back side temps is a major issue.
I'll have to see whether I can get the backplate on its own from aliexpress. ALSO: I wonder whether I have to get a gigabyte compatibile backplate.
@@rather-reverend I don't think you will have to get a gigabyte specific backplate. That is just a guess but the majority of my 3080 anyway is pretty similar to reference design. It is just those power connectors that are not. And while the backplate I have has a cut out for those power connectors, it actually doesn't need to since the connectors are on the front side of the card.
Got a video of you putting on the active backplate? XD
@@kodysoles9912 i don’t have it and can’t buy it separately. So I’d have to buy the full active block just to get that… can’t justify that right now. Bykski are you listening? 😂
I have the same GPU and I want to do this. I’d pay you to do it for me lol.
That "better machining" on the VRM blocks are fly cutter marks - big broad-area cutter. That would've been the top of the machined piece, and it's one consistent cut over the whole part that buzzes the whole surface at once. The rougher marks in the lower areas is inconsistent speeds with an endmill. So it's not "better" in that it was done to a higher quality or anything, just a far simpler cut to do.
I looked up RUclips what the experience is with water-cooling a 3080 just out of curiosity and your video was surprisingly well put together and answered all my questions. Good content! I already thought coming into this that watercooling a 3080 likely not worth it, and I see that's confirmed, it's more of a cool factor or just to see if you can type of thing and if you got the extra money to throw away. But it's still cool to see :)
I feel the same about it
Its not worth it for 8c lower temp and buying a 600€ water cooling kit F that..
Just replace thermal pads and paste
@@redstar612 my gigabyte 3080 is roughly 60c when gaming non water cooled.
Great video. Very comprehensive. I was fortunate to be able to purchase the same card and I'm glad there is a decent block available for it. Bykski also has a digital display module that fits on the block. It looks cool, though I don't know how practical it will be.
Haven’t seen that yet. I’m not much of a fan of screens for the sake of screens (I say as I have four full monitors hooked up) but for some builds that would be cool. I don’t need the active backplate they have now but I like the look of it, kind of wish it had been available when I bought this block. 👍🏻👍🏻
Right on!!! Was just looking into this block last night and here you are with a phenomenal video on the whole experience with it , I’m a complete beginner when it comes to Liquid cooling , I’ve always used AIOs but with you showing the setup of the block makes me feel more confident on trying a custom loop on my build soon enough!
Glad to be of help. Custom loops are fun snd rewarding, just take your time and they aren’t too difficult. Plenty of great information available. Good luck with yours. 👍🏻👍🏻
Don't be put off by the lack of instructions, if you purchase directly from Bykski the instructions are included in a factory sealed package... actually most of their items are double boxed....This is a reseller problem, not a Bykski problem.
@@martinpalmer6203 I purchased from the Bykski store on Amazon. So unless that is a reseller claiming to be Bykski, it was Bykski. If it is a reseller claiming to be Bykski, they should be taking issue with that to protect their brand.
8:47 nickleplate cokhh block. Joking! Great video, I'll be referring to this video for my build in May!
Same water block works for the v2 of the gigabyte rtx 3080 oc gaming waterforce wb 10gb! Especially being that gigabyte forgot to mention thier stock water block was aluminum 😮! Thanks for the vid keep up the great clips! Wish i found this much sooner!
I recently got into custom water cooling. I have the thermaltake core p3 case mounted to my wall. I have no current of airflow with this case unless I have my ceiling fan on lol. Water-cooling my gou and CPU would be a big improvement. For my specific setup and I'm very excited for when everything finally comes in. Great video
am gonna order this exact same block, let's see if they've improved the machining
You can shunt mod the high hash rate 3080 8+8 pin and use a custom BIOS to unlock it's power limits quite a bit. I forget what the 2 accomplish. But it went from 320 watts up to 360 watts (if I recall). I believe at 1440p and 4K benchmarks the guy was gaining 10-14 fps in games. (Not sure in production). He was running it on air too. So imagine your waterblock.
You could see an uplift of 20 fps in gaming and much better performance in production software. However..... The time, effort, money for parts etc, you may as well sell your 3080 and buy a 7900XT(X) or a 4080 16GB.
I went to a 3090ti a bit ago. Reliable performance is more important as this is primarily a work computer. The only real reason I even moved to the 3090ti isn’t the performance gain but rather the memory. This 3080 10g was running out of VRAM and crashing while decoding H.265 5.8k video. The 3090ti doesn’t even break a sweat while using over 16GB of VRAM.
Got the 3090 model with the active backplate for my MSI trio X. So good for the price.
I don't know how you don't have 100k + subs yet. Super informative, I've been looking since forever for a video showing close up of theses blocks. Thank you
Because tbh, this video kinda sucked.
Really good video. 1 little detail: the big issue on the 3080/90 is the vram temp, not so much gpu. On my 3080 i was all comfy with 60ish °C, then I found out that on some games my vram was hitting 98°C. Wouldve been nice to tell difference there aswell with this particular block.
But still, very informative intel on the block, thanks!
There are two problems with the VRAMs - bad thermal pads and no thermal pads on the backplate side. The best test was actually mining ETH. Before - 110°C and thermal throttling, after replacing old thermal pads and putting new between backplate - 96°C (+750 MHz on MEM) at 27-ish °C ambient. While gaming they don't go above 90°C anymore.
I done this cooler on my 3080 Ti today.. Hmm i got ~62 C° on GPU and VRAM 96°..Still Hot on VRAM Maybe i have to try other pads ...
@@hihungryimdad6242 I wonder if they make a sandwich version that cools the backplate.
so not really a huge impact from water to air - been thinking about getting a block with the 3080 or finding the 3080 water block model. I think the 3080 gb card just keeps cooler than the rest in other benchmarks I've seen. This was helpful!
This particular card also has a lower wattage bios than other 3080s. I’m going to flash a higher wattage bios and retest (water cooled only, not gonna put the air cooler back). That may make a larger impact. We shall see.
@@MandicReally cheers!!
I use the OEM hybrid AIO cooler for my EVGA 3080. Worth it!
Blame the US reseller for lack of instructions, I purchase direct from Bykski via Alidirect and they include instructions. Purchase via Aliexpress is often a lot cheaper than Amazon as well
And it only takes months for things to come in on average. With little buyer protection for US buyers. I just bought a couple things off AliExpress last week, estimate delivery is September. I’ll pay $20 more to get an item
in a timely manner from a company that I know I can return it at dozens of local places for an immediate refund if there is any issue.
Also you realize AliExpress isn’t the official store location of most companies? The chances you are buying from a reseller there are extremely high as well. I constantly see two different stores claiming they are the “REAL xyz brand”.
@@MandicReally Everything I get is factory sealed, never had missing instructions, not once.
Hi friend, thanks for the amazing content. Do you know if the waterblock is compatible also with the GV-N3080GAMING OC-12GD?
3:31 I think the tooling marks in the water channel actually helps increasing the contact surface!
9:05 oh, very beautiful - so much shorter now
9:43 I like it the other way around, bcz gravity helps to lower pump rpm
13:13 haha, again not worth it 😅
Where's the ice sculpting videos?!
You kinda glazed over the RGB side on this block and it sounds super complicated.
I'm about to order a bykski for my xxx 5700xt thicc III cause it is running 98-102. T junction temps in my 303c case. Gpu blows how air onto the glass and half of it gets recirculated through the card. Hoping it works cause I dont want to buy a new card until the next gen amd and I havent played with water cooling since my q6600 days. Thanks for the review
It surprises the hell out of me that there are people going to the lengths that have no idea about the real heat issue with these cards. Its not the gpu at all. Its the vram. This guy put no pads on his backplate. On load I bet he is in the 90+C range. Come back and show us your junction or hot spot temps please.
I posted an earlier comment but I think the included link to a diagram about my question, so it might have been automodded. If you intentionally removed my comment, I apologize!
In any case, I purchased a 3090 with an AIO already attached. The waterblock is identical to the one you have shown here. However, there are some discrepancies. The person I purchased the block off of had thermal pads installed in the grooves of the water block (above the voltage regulators). I noticed the stock cooler in your teardown also had thermal pads on these voltage regulators, but did not install them on the waterblock. Are they truly not required with this water block?
The previous owner also installed thermal pads along a bunch of the grooves on the backplate. Were any present in your install? I realize I will have to use 2mm pads for the additional memory chips on the back of the 3090, but were there any pads on the backplate of yours?
Cheers and thanks in advance
This block didn’t come with any pads for the backplate or for those chokes you are referencing. This was about as early of a block release as there was. I’ve been wanting to disassemble it and reinstall with thermal
Pads in those locations to see how much of a difference it makes. My 3080 doesn’t have backside RAM chips so that will likely be marginal, but your 3090 you should absolutely use them. Or consider the active backplate even.
Get the evga bios and OC it, it'll be worth it then.
I’ve been meaning to do exactly that for quite some time. I looked into it and my card has the really “low” wattage bios so I need to step it up to see some gains. Just moved so I haven’t had time for projects like that though. Soon.
Did you mess with overclocking at all since putting it on water?
I bought the Bykski N-GV3090GMOC-TC version for the RTX 3090 Gigabyte Vision OC had an issue with the included thermal pads, they were too thick at 2mm (1.8mm). I tried 1.5mm thermalright pads and those were too thick so I had to finally go 1mm on the memory and 1.5mm on everything else. Not sure how it worked out differently.
Also had an issue with on of the standoffs at the display port end was off by 2mm so it wouldn't match the hole on the board.
I'm also looking to get the exact same waterblock for my 3090 Vision OC. how are the thermals for the back side memory modules?
@@kyleloh6237 lowest temps I got was 37C gpu and 72C memory with room temperature at 25C with 2x360mm + 240mm radiators. It depends on setup. There is no way to discern front and back memory temperatures unless using thermal imaging camera on the back plate or thermal probe sensor.
I have the same card. Just ordered a custom loop for gpu only. 280mm x 45mm thich rad and good pump/reservoir. My card gets about 70-72 on air with fanspeed at 62%.
-It really is possible to undervolt this card with latest msi afterburner. I did it with 1950mhz and 500mhz on mem@ 975mv. It is an overclock and undervolt at the same time. But results vary by card and bios.
I am really interested to get this card in the 50s celcius range but with lowest possible fanspeed for good silent noise as the gpu is the only thing now making noticeable noise at full load.
Tested a game like marvels avengers which pushes the card at 99/100% most of the time. On air I get 72c with 62%fan speed. So my goal is to reduce the temps down to 50's something. My rad is alphacool xt45. Which is 45mm thick. But now I see that the wateblock from bykski is not that good. But I still have some hopes to reduce temps down with lower or similar noise. What do you think??
Great video, thanks. One major question though. I right now have that exact waterblock in hand, ready to be put on my RTX 3080Ti , and I am noticing that this waterblock does not provide contact for the two rows of those gray 'R15' components. The stock cooler definitely does, and there are pads for those R15s. I looked up the Bitspower and Barrow blocks, they both do provide cooling for those. In your video, you clearly skip those How has this setup been holding up? Any adverse effects from not cooling these pieces? Thanks.
I really cannot say long term how it is / will be. However my card has been running smoothly and happily since install. I recently installed a 5950X and brought the cooling system load up overall and the GPU still sits happily and stable at the temps I quoted here. I have been meaning to flash a higher wattage bios on the card, and wonder if that won't show some weak points, but I haven't had time to do that properly / test it so I have held off. The lack of cooling for all the components cooled by factory is mildly concerning to me, so I may eventually switch blocks, but for the moment I'm satisfied.
@@MandicReally did you ever find a compatible unlocked, or higher watt bios? i have the same card and same block (+ active backplate) and I want to avoid shunt modding it if I can
The reason why I am avoiding the Bykski, Barrow and Alphacool blocks is that they completely ignore the 4 diodes near the video connectors. They are cooled by the original air cooler and Just noticed that they are cooled my the Bitspower cooler that is available for this card.
@8:00 you can see it didn’t have thermal pads or contact there. Maybe I was supposed to install a pad there? Lack of instructions doesn’t help there. There are 5 diodes there on this card. I can see where the stock cooler hit it. I’d have to disassemble the block / card to check if it needs contact there or not.
Alphacool has a block for this card now too. I didn’t see photos of the actual block contact side on their site though.
@@MandicReally on alphacool, I look through the install directions to see that they are also missing those diodes. I saw another bykski install video where he complains about this in the comments section. I found a US seller that has the bitspower block in stock and they only have 2. titanrig if you are curious. I did confirm that the Bitspower cools those diodes by checking out the installation directions online.
You didn't miss anything, the waterblock makers did.
@@MandicReally There are instructions, they're just online.
@@Lexicon_ they were not there 8 months ago when I filmed this video. I can’t update review videos when things change down the line. Not including a QR code or URL to the instructions (or printed instructions) would still constitute a poor experience.
What thickness were the thermal pads used on the 3080 Gaming OC ?
Hi!
What is the GDDR6X temperature after installing the water block? After all, as you know, the memory is the hottest place on the 3080/3090 My MSI 3080 Ventus heated the memory to 96 degrees in the air. After installing the water block, the drop is not large, only 10 degrees, it became 86
I don’t have before temps but mine is sitting at 80C after about 1 hour of running Unigine Heaven. My GPU is only pulling 330W though (must be the 325W bios). I’m going to flash my bios up and do a video about doing so, I’ll include those temps in that one.
@@MandicReally i think waterblock manufacturer need to pay more attention to the vram temps
they have to make some kind of microfin on it
and make the thermal pads way thinner than
thin enough that user can op to use thermal paste for even better vram temp
@@MandicReally 80c with no back plate pads? I doubt that.
@@MandicReally I see you mentioning to put a different BIOS on this card throught the comments several times. Have you already done that? Would be interesting if that was possible. Thanks in advance
Is this waterblock compatible with the Gigabyte 3080 vision OC version?
Yes it is, according to the Bykski site and sales listing: amzn.to/3oDWCf7
@@MandicReally Side note, wouldn't recommend linking to n_howe seller listings. Dude's been taken down off Amazon like 3 times for being sketchy as hell.
did the waterblock come with caps?
My block came with missing 1.8 mm thermal pads! Got any suggestions?
why using such slow cpu with fast gpu?
Bro you know any good water block. For my gigabyte 3090 gaming oc card
Want to help me find parts to water cool my system😂
Dude, 2700X with a 3080????? Please tell me you at least upgraded to 5800X at this point.
I personally went from a 2700X->3900X->5800X all on the same X470 Asrock board, and the speed difference between the them was pretty huge.
Even going from 12 cores to 8 cores, the (much) faster clocks on the 5800X made up the difference when compiling large programs. At full throttle the 3900X would cap out at 3.99Ghz all cores, while the 5800X is at 4.6-4.8Ghz all cores depending on the temps in the room.
Running this on air cooler (Noctua NHD15).
I think it helps that my 5800X is apparently a golden sample according to Ryzen clock tuner.
In the games that I play, especially anything that's CPU bound single threaded like older games (quake live, vkquake etc), I've gotten another 150fps.
I’m on a 5950X now. This was filmed when 5000 series was impossible to get but I got super lucky and got a 3080 for MSRP.
what is the thermal pad thickness? thank you for sharing
By my measurements they are 1.85mm thick, so I'm assuming they are what would be sold as "2mm" pads. I think I may order some 3mm pads and see if I can put them between the card and backplate.
Did you put thermal pads on the back plate
I did not. I actually discussed that when filming but this video was getting too long so I had to cut it. None of the thermal pads provided reached the backplate. So I would have had to double them up or get new thicker ones. It was clearly not meant to be done. At least on my card which doesn't have backside memory chips it wasn't. A card with backside memory chips would likely be a different story.
@@MandicReally Thank you for that that's very helpful I have it on order but I also ordered 3mm pads for back so good thing I did 😊
@@MandicReally Huh. Very interesting. I've already replaced the backside pads on my card with stock cooling, and I'll be looking at what I need to do with the new backplate. I HOPING that the backplate tolerances are designed to cool a 3090 - otherwise I may actually have to mount the old backplate. If you mine on a 3090 (and even at MSRP it's hard to justify money if you don't!), backplate contact us not an option.
@@rather-reverend I'm fairly sure the thermal pads provided would work with a 3090 having back memory chips. They just didn't for me with a lack of any backside components. I order 3mm pads to try and put them on anyway to offer any additional cooling I can get. I'll likely do a follow up video on that as I intend to flash my BIOS for a higher power limit and am worried about the memory when I do.
@@MandicReally my 3mm pads work flawlessly highly recommended 👌
I really closer to pulling the trigger for my 3080 Eva edition, but I really want the one with the active backplate...
Looking back now how's this system block performing?
I never ran into any cooling issues in anyway. I just took this card & block out last week for a 3090Ti, but never had any issues. I didn't watch memory temps like a hawk, but never saw any throttling in any of my testing.
If you are not running a 3090 (non-Ti) an active backplate is overkill I think. The 3080 & 3090Ti don't have back memory chips that need cooling. To add a little cooling you could always put some thermal pads behind the memory chips on the passive backplate. I had intended to do that but am just going to sell my Card with the block most likely now.
@@MandicReally thanks so much for the reply.
My thought process as well, but I'm also going for a bit for enthusiasm as well, I may do two EKWB flt120 with different coloured loops rather than 1 flt360. Or invest in a double sided waterblock.
So I'm thinking of either going EKWB one sided or Bykski Double sided.... Only because they are the same price here in Canada.... 369$ for EKWB Velocity and 349$ for the Bykski Sandwiched.
What about vram temps?
Hour of Unigine looping they hit 80C. I’m going to be applying thermal pads to the back of the card to see if the backplate helps any. Then flashing the BIOS to a higher wattage one (I’ve discovered this card is a 330W bios) and see what happens. Look for a video soon.
@@MandicReally I bet they are higher then 80c.
Warranty void?
Not for me no. We are allowed to work on and repair our electronics, if it causes a failure then it voids the warranty. So a water leak would, sure. Otherwise, no they cannot void my warranty just for swapping the cooler. Doesn't mean they won't or find some other way to deny it, but legally just doing this doesn't void the warranty, no.
ryzen 2700x with rtx 3080 ? most stupid combination ever seen, not suprised why your wc score is almost same like stock one...
What combination do you run? Ryzen 5000 series were very difficult to get when I put this setup together so I didn't upgrade from the CPU I've had for years. Would you pass up the oppurtunity to buy a 3080 for $800 becuase "The CPU combo would be stupid"? Or just get it and upgrade CPU later? The GPU isn't bottlenecked by the CPU. Sure a better CPU would pick up more perofmrance of course but the GPU isn't being throttled by the CPU. If you think it is you need to learn a lot more about what Bottlenecking really is.
@@MandicReally in 1440p it will bottleneck, ryzen 5000 series is wide avaliable and is not overpriced at all. Merging el cheapo cpu with high end gpu is just silly.
@@akcesoriumpc6421 cool this video went up 4 months ago when no one had inventory of the 5000 series. I do video creation and 3D modeling so the 5950X makes the most sense for me, but I can’t justify the $800 price tag right now. So do I spend half that much on a stop gap upgrade?
Currently I’ve decided on waiting for the Zen 3 Threadripper CPUs to launch. So again, spending $4-800 to upgrade now doesn’t make sense if I know my setup works well enough for now and a new upgrade is out there on the horizon.
@@akcesoriumpc6421 also I bought the 2700X when it was brand new. Calling it “El Cheapo” is insulting and silly. Today’s high end will always be tomorrow’s lower end. That’s life. Not all of use can afford to or justify upgrading with every new release.
Ahh yes the internet/armchair PC builder who obviously knows everything from his google searches and forum browsing. Why are there so many of these people lol, even in the car community you've got know-it-alls despite never having owned/built a car in their life.