I'm just commenting to highlight how Charlie seems to be such a genuinely nice guy whose RUclips content is so clearly guided by what he feels is helpful and educational. As an Irishman, it galls me how much I like this Englishman.
Aw thanks so much mate. I massively appreciate that! You don't know how valuable these comments have been over the years in keeping me motivated to make this content. It's truly humbling that people like your good self find the time to drop me a line as it's so easy to just click away onto the next vid. Can't thank you enough 🙏👊🏻
Some good down to earth videos. I’m a handyman by trade and have built 2 houses and just recently I made a built in wardrobe desk & shelf for a client with MDF. The client said that it was a new type of mdf that wasn’t halfway between the moisture resistant and normal? Anyway worked just the same but I also used BIN and 123 on the project & id say the BIN was way better. Went on a lot smoother for me and I used Hamilton Prestige Short Pile Rollers plus a decent brush. I agree that cleaning is a pain with non water based but I just chucked them after the job to avoid the issue :). I also primed all the MDF with a specialist MDF primer by MANN. It’s a bit harder to sand back but gives glassy results.
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Thank you so much for all of your content, I'm in the process of gutting and decorating my 1920s lathe wall house and so far I've been able to confidently take on all the jobs I've come across thanks to your videos! I've just started the living room now and I have walls to plaster, a ceiling to plasterboard, new skirting, under floor insulation then decorating to do! Wish me luck!!
I did spray-paint my wardrobes using POLYURETHANE based primers and paints (plus the hardener of course). This stuff is made for professionals but it can be easily done by DIYers too. Yes, you need a compressor and a gun but it is worth the effort. The final effect is basically as furniture from the factory if done properly. For smaller jobs, you can also use fan-based sprayers. I used them for painting window boards and it worked well too. You can also have a gloss finish which isn't doable when painting with a brush or rollers
Another one to try is Zinsser Gardz. Brilliant stuff for MDF edges. Cut, apply, sand happy days. Water based too for easy clean up. Also works for stabilising before filling in wall repair and 100’s of other priming tasks. Amazing product introduced to me on the rare occasion I outsourced some decorating. Worth it for this tip alone
I’m a complete novice but bought the Samet filler on the basis of this video. Absolutely brilliant stuff, sanded down to a satin finish in seconds. Highly recommend it - and it took primer beautifully. Rest of the wardrobes are a nightmare though!
Great video Charlie. I did a ‘floating” desk for my son as per one of your videos in 18 mm plywood and also some recent bench drawers in standard mdf. I didn’t bother edge banding or filling the edges and just used water based Cuprinol “Garden Shades” outdoor paint as recommended for mdf by another RUclipsr. I must say the results with this paint are fantastic and doesn’t require any sealer or undercoat and dries to a lovely flat finish on plywood and mdf. Highly recommended. 👍🏻
Hi Paul, good to hear from you. What a good idea. I used that stuff on one of my windows, in the green tint as I was trying to find a method that was more durable than primer and top coat given how badly they all warp and crack (my windows are all soft wood because I couldn't afford hard), particularly on the south of the house. It has been brilliant such that I wish I'd used it on the other new windows I've installed. So much easier to repaint too! Chuffed you copied my floating desk idea. My daughter's is still going strong. 👊🏻👍🏻
Thanks Charlie,very informative as usual. I have started using Soudal Transpacryl on MDF edges. Work it in to the edge with a filling knife then remove excess. Dries quickly and sands to a glass finish. Takes paint really well.
18v tools are bloody magic, even down at the ryobi/ozito/einhell end. Sure, there are applications that need that lift up to 36/40 (larger routers/grinders), but the cost vs utility of 18v is off the charts!
I made some simple mdf carcasses and finished them in an oil based wood paint by dulux trade. I do not envy you having to do so much here - it was a LOT of effort priming, sanding, priming, sanding, painting, sanding, painting... Graft. Nice video as usual!
Greaat work ive been having this battle for a few months my conclusion is sand, sand and more sanding then from barretine shellac sealer makes mdf edges silky smooth. Also please get yourself a small airless sprayer hurts me you having all that work painting by hand.
My technique for edges is sand with 120, rub in some PVA wood glue into the edge. Dry. Sand again 240. Then primer, sand, primer again, sand, 2 tops coats sanding between. Tried 1,2,3 last time but found it didn't dry sand very easily. Pilled up a bit on the paper. But it did seal in the fibres quite well.
Thanks mate. I've tried PVA in the past but didn't think it made a significant difference. I suspect the sanding, not to mention commendable time and effort you're putting into this is as significant, if not more so, than the PVA.
@@CharlieDIYte yeah you might be right. I often put the PVA on during the making stage just to get ahead. But it probably does the same job as a coat of primer. I didn't mention but often it's the customer or another decorator painting the things I make. Often they won't bother or doubt know about prep so if I supply it sanded and pva sealed then it's a good base for them and I've done my best. (IG @woodshedfurniture )
Great video Charlie. I know when I've seen other videos, some makers have glued some thin pine to the cut edges. Not always viable bit gives a smooth finish.too..! Thanks
Thank you dear, your videos are so helpful....alumnium oxide is used in sand blasting so i would think those pads of yours will be very good. To you and yours, please be safe
Excellent timing, I'm about to get started building a new kitchen from scratch, the doors I was going to build out of MDF but had concerns about the edging and whether I should use MR-MDF or Standard which is more readily available. (The Carcasses will be Birch Ply for the record).
I think the standard will be fine. Give it a good prime and use some decent quality top coat, and someone recommended this to me yesterday to prevent the top coat chipping amzn.to/2OPjz1y
I'm really surprised that no-one on any video i've looked at has mentioned Polyfilla fine surface filler. It is a super-fine texture and can be sanded to a practically gloss mirror finish with appropriately fine sandpaper. It was recommended to me 25 years ago, and I'm just giving it another go at the moment with some wardrobes i've had built for me but am painting myself. It dries in about an hour and is fairly easy to sand. I'd highly recommend it. The first time I used it was 1999 on some MDF bookshelves which I painted with a liquid gloss (oil based) finish - not something I would do now, but that was the 90s. Gloss will show up anything and these still looked great. I'm using Zinser 1-2-3 and i have to say it does really clog up the sandpaper... lesson learned there.
Yes Zinsser BIN doesn't clog the sand paper. It's like sanding the filler. I agree filler (are you thinking something like Easi-Fill?) would work well. I just don't like the idea of using a gypsum type product on wood. 🤔
@@CharlieDIYte Easyfill is too porous and powdery IMO, but the fine surface filler is super-smooth and hard and not powdery. I don't know what it's made of tbh, but it is the very finest finish you can get - I would say even finer than 2 part wood filler, and the adhesion is good too - Easyfill's adhesion isn't quite right for this use and it's best when not too thin. Here, where you're sanding back the applied filler to maybe 0.5mm or 1mm thickness, it would (I think) start to break down. That said, I go to all this effort but Peter Millard is completely happy with just sanding and using the build-up of primer and paint to fill in any micro-holes, so maybe I'm completely over-egging it! I'm also a little in two minds about the sanding: if you don't sand *before* adding filler, there is more grain to get the filler into than if you sand before filling. So I can't make up my mind whether it's better to sand and then fill or fill and then sand. In fact (probably a complete faux-pas), I actually primed, then filled, then sanded...
Very useful video Charlie - thanks. Have a wardrobe build pending - was considering Medite MR MDF for the better end grain finish but this has made me reconsider.
With regards to sandpaper, I recommend 3M sandpaper. It does not clog up as much as other brands; also, the grade of grit is consistent and it is easy to clean: To clean, use an odd bit of sandpaper to clean your in use sandpaper or use an old bristle brush.
Mirka Mirox was a revelation for me - spent years thinking that sandpaper is all the same...nope. The Makita discs for my 150mm random orbit are utterly terrible in comparison
@@wsurfa not all sandpaper is made of the same quality. I discovered this quickly when I built my first wardrobe which was inspired by CharlieDiyte. Also, the same goes for those 10cm (4") foam.rollers. I have tried lots and found Wickes are the softest and provide a spray like finish.
Yet again another brilliant video Charlie. The level of detail you go into and the clarity of your explanations is absolutely superb. So often RUclipsrs miss off really important details. Just that little clip of the different orbitals and their prices is so useful for DIYers thinking of buying. I'm off to buy some Zinsser now for some MDF panelling I'm installing! Awesome.
I rushed my last cabinet DIY job. I skipoed sanding and primer and went straight to two coats of emulsion. It worked great. I just need to finish sand. Will let you know how it goes...
I think you mentioned this the other day. That will be fine but the only issue with emulsion is that it is liable to wipe off of you need to clean it for any reason. Nice chalky, matt finish though. I used it on a loft hatch in my bedroom because I was keen to match the ceiling paint colour.
I've watched all your videos on this subject and quite a few others too. It seems most professionals go for the sanding method and not the sealing method I guess for the reason you mentioned in this video: time. There seems to be one major difference. Some are saying use a thinned down or primer coat first and then sand, paint, sand, paint. Whereas you've gone for sand first. Any pros and cons to each method? Nobody seems to explore the two in one video.
Loving the series, Charlie! One recommendation: I notice you use Spax Torx screws, but I'd strongly recommend ForgeFast Torx screws from Toolstation, they're less than half the price for the same size and quantity, and the fluted shaft makes them a dream to use, even if you don't pilot hole.
There’s another RUclips channel (I won’t name here out of respect for Charlie) that recommends ForgeFast very highly. I tried them for the first time last week. Then are absolutely great. Made light work of chip boarding the loft.
Just found this channel, and I must say it's got me motivated to start on my bedroom! Why? Why do you do this to us poor guys who just wanted to sit down and watch a relaxing video? Goddammit. Anyway, thanks a lot mate and greetings from Germany.
Hi Chris - great to hear from you. Still plenty of time to watch videos, but you can't replace that epic feeling when you walk past one of your DIY creations 👍 Good luck with your next project and drop me a line if you have any questions.
B-I-N is great, not cheap for the wee tin though. I ran out during a job, but i did have a tin of Zinsser shellac Wall Paper Coverup paint leftover. Looks the same, smells the same, and the ingredients looked the same, so i ended up using that as a primer for everything else. Didnt chip off of the varnished woodwork i painted over either, seemed to grip quite well. Hopefully doesnt cause any problems in future. But it was cheaper for a bigger tin, so it would be interesting to know if there is a difference if just using as a general primer.
hi next time you are using drywall adhesive save some put several boards together and spread some drywall adhesive paste over the endgrain and lightly sand this will give good results
I haven't. Are you after a 16 or 18 guage nailer? I've got a 16 guage finish nailer, the Ryobi R18N16G and it's brilliant - no need for gas canisters. I'd recommend it. It's a bit expensive though if you don't already have the batteries. For stuff like fencing you'll want a heavier guage machine though.
Very useful, thanks. I've replaced a load of skirtings with mdf, and was disappointed with the roughness on the 'moulding'. Guess its elbow grease time, but the mesh sanders look useful. One thing on the wool rollers for the BIN - do you try to clean, or just bin? (guess thats how it got its name!). I've been using cheap foam as one-time sleeves.
Yes I'm afraid it is. I've got that to come because I'm routing a moulding on my faker shaker doors. Good question on the rollers. If using the wool rollers (also called simulation mohair) with BIN I typically wrap them in cling film after each coat, store in a cool place so they're ready for the next coat. You can make them last a reasonable amount of time this way - eg a week or more. Then when I'm finished with them I throw away. For the top coat, I tend to clean them. I've got a cunning technique where I point a hose pipe with the hose nozzle adjusted to a fine jet at the roller. It spins around at great speed and quickly cleans it. Very effective too on large roller sleeves. One thing - it's very problematic using BIN in hot weather because it dries too quickly and tends to rip the wool off the sleeve as you're painting.
@@CharlieDIYte I've found this good for cleaning rollers: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B009NK2YX4/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_C39518VVNPJQR3S5PAZJ I dont quite use as per their instructions, but I soak in water & then 'spin dry' a few times. (your hose would work too).
Great vid again Charlie, thanks. As you may remember I am building my wardrobe and following this series closely. But Zinsser is very expensive and I do have a ton of Johnstons MDF primer. Do you think for my end grain I could use the BIN and then use the water based for the rest of the MDF. I used nearly a whole litre of BIN on the outside only of a 500mm wide, 2m high cupboard a year ago and didn't think the BIN went very far at all, I used a foam roller too. So reluctant to spend copious amounts on the BIN when I could possibly use it on the end grain only. Thoughts please buddy.
Thanks Karl. What this little exercise has shown me is that it really doesn't matter what you use as long as you prep the edges properly - I painted my daughter's wardrobe with that Armstead you saw in the video and I've also used Johnstone's Joncryl primer to good effect. So yes you'd be absolutely fine with the Johnstone's MDF primer. It's great stuff. In fact someone's commented on this feed that they don't use BIN for MDF as they think it's too brittle. I don't agree with this but it shows that BIN isn't the panacea.
But late commenting but from experience the best way to prepare MDF edges is to sand them very smooth from the start ,I use 240 grit followed by one coat of primer . A quick flat back and that's all that's needed .
Charlie, Got a little project doing atm, and am wondering how you would do this. Few years ago a bay window area had the old windows taken out and uPVC windows put in. For whatever reason, the lath and plaster ceiling of the bay area was only partially removed (guess it crumbled) in front of the windows and replaced with plasterboard, right up to some old curtain rail. Was looking to replace this old curtain rail because over the years it has warped, likely because the plaster ceiling has cracked and bowed, as they do. I found out that the curtain rail wasn't even screwed into the joist, but the damn laths, so no wonder it bowed over the years. As I'll be putting in a Roman blind there, it needs to be level, or it'll just hit the wall. The correct thing to do would be rip the whole ceiling area down and finish the plasterboarding job... but since the room can't be emptied, it's bodge time. The joist is only about 20cm beyond the curtain rail, so I plan to screw a new rail into the joist and pull it tight so it brings the bowing plaster back up and holds it all together as flat as possible again. I had considered using 12mm MDF for this (142cm length) and just using a bunch of screws along the joist for support. However, I'm still wondering if the MDF would be sturdy enough for this? I know one issue with MDF is sagging under its own weight over time, but this would be supported with a lot of screws along its entire length. Plywood would be no question about it stronger, but also much more of a pain to finish due to the edges, and I'll be painting it. You think the MDF would do just fine here, or should I suck it up and do the plywood?
I would go for plywood - particularly if there are any residual damp or condensation issues being so close to the window, so much stronger and if you bought something premium like birch ply, the edges paint up really well, as you'd see in this vid bit.ly/33m2JL7 where I used it for some shelves on my wardrobe project. Also, I'd worry about 12mm MDF doing the job without bowing.
@@CharlieDIYte Cheers Charlie. Yeah, it seems like, according to the Sagulator (I'd look it up if you've never heard of it), MDF will just bow under its own weight even at small lengths. Can barely hold itself up, no chance with heavy plaster wanting to come down on it. Seems like MDF is perfect for vertical applications, but for horizontal you really want a trim support or brace. I've been looking up hiding the edges of plywood and it seems slapping wood filler and sanding it down is all that's needed. Dunno if it would hold up over years of the plywood layers expanding in different directions, though. The more I try to do workarounds the more I'm thinking of just going for broke and ripping that damn ceiling down, at least it is right next to a window so the dust can just all get blown right outside with a big fan!
If you've used water based paint, it's a good idea to as it will chip or scuff. Whilst I haven't used it myself, the two I have been recommended are Minwax polycrylic coating or Polyvine decorators varnish in flat matt.
Hi Charlie, great video as always! Your views on the finish you get from sanding first and then priming are very interesting, as Gosforth Handyman swear you are wasting your time doing that because the end grain raises again after priming, and then also your views on MR MDF are really interesting to me, because I was starting to sway towards that instead of standard MDF because of the views of people like Peter Millard, but you seem to prove there’s not much difference? MR MDF is definitely more dense in my opinion and maybe a bit less prone to splitting perhaps?
You're very welcome Mandy. BIN is my go to primer for most things but you have to be a bit careful using it in the summer as it dries before you can get it off the roller or brush 👍🏻
I have been doing a lot of MDF cabinets, shelves etc recently on DIY projects. I have previously tried the leyland and wickes MDF primer, but find it hard to sand as it is a bit rubbery. Instead I have been using the recipe suggested by Peter Millard - Leyland water based acrylic primer. It is quite thick (watery primers make the problem worse) and it sands like an absolute dream. I apply using a foam mini roller. Once dry it sands great. I normally do 2 coats of primer to the faces and 3 coats to the edges, sanding between coats with 120 or 180 grit. The primer dries super fast so 2 or 3 coats is not a problem and it leaves a fantastic finish with either roller applied (hard foam) leyland water based eggshell, or that same eggshell sprayed (yes I still roller the primer, even when spraying the eggshell (for reasons I can mention is anyone is interested)). As the old addage goes, the secret to a good paint finish is in the preparation. A good primer recipe makes the world of difference.
I also use the Leyland water based primer. It dries in minutes in the summer which makes recoating those edges so much quicker. I don’t even need to sand the MR MDF before painting. I just paint sand, repaint and finish sand.
You spell it however you like mate 👊🏻 I stupidly haven't kept a spreadsheet as I've gone, but I will be doing a full costing in the last video. I was hoping to cram all the remaining stuff into one video but I think it will have to be two as the doors merit a video in their own right. 👍🏻
Charlie I'm a recent subscriber to your channel, have you done/would you consider doing a how to on making corner cabinets? (I've got an uneven corner ensuite vanity to make in the future & would like to have a crack at it myself) Your videos are easy to follow with lots of necessary detail which many others lack
I know this is an old video but on the off chance you see this, did you have any follow up on that Samet wood filler? I've found it, and I'm looking at using it to prime the end grain on mdf before painting. Contemplating whether to buy this or just standard wood filler.
No, unfortunately the pot I bought went hard before I had a chance to use it - which kind of says it all. Maybe buy a pot and experiment on the first cut edge. My guess is it'll be easier to apply as you don't have to mix it but you'll wish you bought the 2 part wood filler as it goes off so quick. That said I didn't use any filler on the cupboards featured on this video and I never notice the very slightly textured edges.
Interesting the levels of available tools now days. That sander is great for DIY but wait till you try a mirka or the equivalent festool. Another level again! BIN is too brittle for mdf, we don't use it for kitchens etc as it can snap. Caparol haft primer is the one with their pu satin. Again...different level.
I've heard that MDF edges typically take paint better if you very lightly sand the edges to round them off slightly. True in your experience or unnecessary?
No, I don't think rounding them off is necessary. It's all about sanding down that end grain. Makes your life much easier for the in between coat sand.
I use both Zinnser primers BIN and Bullseye 123 but but even though you need meths to clean your brush after using the BIN it's still by far the better primer, especially for tannin and grease stains. Although Bullseye 123 says it blocks tannin I've found it doesn't nor does it block grease marks but BIN never lets you down and usually within one coat if it's a light stain, two coats if it's darker. Also be aware the Bin primer is quite thin, think a bit thicker than milk but in spite of that it has great covering power. Don't buy Zinnser from decorator trade places they royally rip you off... example: Crown Decorator Centre wanted to charge me Approx £28 for a litre of Zinnser BIN, Dulux Trade Centre was cheaper at £26 ToolStation an epic and throughly decent £18
Thanks Dex. I agree with all that, and the other thing is that it cleans off the brushes much easier than an oil based paint, so actually it's not such a big deal having to use meths or their own brush cleaner.
Charlie thank you for this, it is very useful, especially the experiment that showed that MR makes little difference to the paint finish. It also appears you are developing a fan base that is more focussed on your appearance than the content.😉
The Bin primer not too watery then as some reviews suggest? Are you sure it's a Shellac based product? That's a natural Beetle Juice I believe. Nice colour that, what Brand paint was it?
Definitely not too watery. That was my perception when I first started using it but it's actually a huge advantage that it goes on so thin, and the coverage is just as good as thicker alternatives. You have to be quite careful about the temperature when you apply BIN. If it's too warm, the paint dries too quickly and literally pulls the wool off the roller as you're applying it. If you're painting in the summer then you need to revert to a standard water based primer. Having used a foam roller for most of the wardrobe so far I've reverted to the wool for the drawers and am loving it. The top coat is a Johnstone's acrylic durable eggshell, mixed to a F&B colour.
6:05 It seems you didn't sand after the second primer coat? Do you find sanding after the second coat of primer is not useful or would that extra step make some difference if you trying for the very best result?
Yes Tony. The touch test showed it was beautifully smooth after the second primer coat. Not to say you can't stand though. You need to see how yours is feeling and act accordingly 👍
If I had a pound for the amount of times people have asked me that 🤦 No, it's a very manly variety of lip balm for my chapped lips 💪🏻. Plus I desperately need a hair cut. The problem is after promising early signs my wife is getting progressively worse at doing it. Booked her in for tomorrow night though 😬
I'd like to know what you're thoughts are on the liquid mdf sealer your get, the quick dry thin stuff. I usually do a couple coats and a bit of a sand and it works well, I'm just wandering if you think it holds up well against these?
Also, I have youtube vanced for browsing most vids, but I don't mind watching yours on regular app and watch through the adverts as it gives you engagement and money :)
Thanks so much Aidan, I really appreciate that 👊🏻 I've got to confess, I've never used that sealer. I suppose you'd question the benefits of this extra step given that you're painting it anyway. Granted it probably makes the primer go further, but still ... 🤔
I suspect there will be a bit of a queue at the barbers so I've booked in the Mrs for this evening. Got to get back the investment in those scissors and clippers!!
What a huge project you've let yourself in for here Charlie. Not only a big build, but you're doing little experiment mini-projects within. Time for an end of lock-down hair-cut though? Ha ha, actually I don't care about your hair at all, or your, err, lipstick, err.
How about mixing wood filler and undercoat one-to-one ratio? That would save time just put it on quite thick and Sand and put top coat on? Has anyone tried this?
Charlie, Are you wearing lipstick 😆 Not only educational and perfectly timed cause I'm about to paint an MDF job but also not afraid to wear a bit of make up haha.
@@CharlieDIYte haha, You make a really good point about the prep though. It makes a huge difference to the finish and has made me think trice about finishing my doors. Thank you so much!!
@@CharlieDIYte I'm amazed that you take the time to respond to comments (even so stupid) on old videos like this one. That's great mate, and thanks for the videos... they're very informative and remind me of Proper DIY who's started almost at the same time as you.
It's not really a review though. The main thrust is to explain the benefits and suggest you get one for your battery system. There are a ton of reviews out there for you to peruse at your leisure.
@@benmjt No, they are not, different countries, different brands. It's difficult to know if you are comparing like with like unless the things that make particular brands work are made known. I realise that's not always possible of course.
@@vtbn53 I understand your point, but this is a UK based channel and I much prefer Charlie being able to review actual products I can get my hands on. Real-world tests are far more useful to me; I want to know how products perform and how/if they actually work. Lots of Charlie's vids are based around this idea if you look back, and that's one the main reasons i'm subscribed.
![Painting MDF Doors [video 407]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZIwNJGlVtwc/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm just commenting to highlight how Charlie seems to be such a genuinely nice guy whose RUclips content is so clearly guided by what he feels is helpful and educational.
As an Irishman, it galls me how much I like this Englishman.
Aw thanks so much mate. I massively appreciate that! You don't know how valuable these comments have been over the years in keeping me motivated to make this content. It's truly humbling that people like your good self find the time to drop me a line as it's so easy to just click away onto the next vid. Can't thank you enough 🙏👊🏻
@@CharlieDIYte Not a problem! I'm definitely getting the most out of that arrangement! I hope this stays enjoyable and profitable for you :)
Why is this so very much better than anythig on TV?! LOL
TV would have taken 43mins to deliver 8mins of content. TV is dead.
Thanks mate. Constantly striving to waffle as little as possible 👊🏻
Thanks, I really appreciate that 👊🏻🙏
The stuff on TV is usually all repeats
Some good down to earth videos. I’m a handyman by trade and have built 2 houses and just recently I made a built in wardrobe desk & shelf for a client with MDF. The client said that it was a new type of mdf that wasn’t halfway between the moisture resistant and normal? Anyway worked just the same but I also used BIN and 123 on the project & id say the BIN was way better. Went on a lot smoother for me and I used Hamilton Prestige Short Pile Rollers plus a decent brush. I agree that cleaning is a pain with non water based but I just chucked them after the job to avoid the issue :). I also primed all the MDF with a specialist MDF primer by MANN. It’s a bit harder to sand back but gives glassy results.
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I followed your Zinsser BIN tip and it was amazing, much better than anything I've done before. Thanks!
Great work Scott. Thanks for letting me know. It's awesome stuff, isn't it! 👍🏻
Thank you so much for all of your content, I'm in the process of gutting and decorating my 1920s lathe wall house and so far I've been able to confidently take on all the jobs I've come across thanks to your videos!
I've just started the living room now and I have walls to plaster, a ceiling to plasterboard, new skirting, under floor insulation then decorating to do! Wish me luck!!
Thanks for the comment, David. Really humbled you've found my vids so useful. Good luck with the Living Room. That's quite a project!!
I did spray-paint my wardrobes using POLYURETHANE based primers and paints (plus the hardener of course). This stuff is made for professionals but it can be easily done by DIYers too. Yes, you need a compressor and a gun but it is worth the effort. The final effect is basically as furniture from the factory if done properly. For smaller jobs, you can also use fan-based sprayers. I used them for painting window boards and it worked well too.
You can also have a gloss finish which isn't doable when painting with a brush or rollers
Another one to try is Zinsser Gardz. Brilliant stuff for MDF edges. Cut, apply, sand happy days. Water based too for easy clean up. Also works for stabilising before filling in wall repair and 100’s of other priming tasks.
Amazing product introduced to me on the rare occasion I outsourced some decorating. Worth it for this tip alone
I’m a complete novice but bought the Samet filler on the basis of this video. Absolutely brilliant stuff, sanded down to a satin finish in seconds. Highly recommend it - and it took primer beautifully. Rest of the wardrobes are a nightmare though!
Oh well done Denise. Really glad you enjoy using that. Good luck with the rest of the project. 🤞👍
Any stockists of this
Great video Charlie. I did a ‘floating” desk for my son as per one of your videos in 18 mm plywood and also some recent bench drawers in standard mdf. I didn’t bother edge banding or filling the edges and just used water based Cuprinol “Garden Shades” outdoor paint as recommended for mdf by another RUclipsr. I must say the results with this paint are fantastic and doesn’t require any sealer or undercoat and dries to a lovely flat finish on plywood and mdf. Highly recommended. 👍🏻
Hi Paul, good to hear from you. What a good idea. I used that stuff on one of my windows, in the green tint as I was trying to find a method that was more durable than primer and top coat given how badly they all warp and crack (my windows are all soft wood because I couldn't afford hard), particularly on the south of the house. It has been brilliant such that I wish I'd used it on the other new windows I've installed. So much easier to repaint too! Chuffed you copied my floating desk idea. My daughter's is still going strong. 👊🏻👍🏻
Thanks Charlie,very informative as usual. I have started using Soudal Transpacryl on MDF edges. Work it in to the edge with a filling knife then remove excess. Dries quickly and sands to a glass finish. Takes paint really well.
18v tools are bloody magic, even down at the ryobi/ozito/einhell end. Sure, there are applications that need that lift up to 36/40 (larger routers/grinders), but the cost vs utility of 18v is off the charts!
I made some simple mdf carcasses and finished them in an oil based wood paint by dulux trade. I do not envy you having to do so much here - it was a LOT of effort priming, sanding, priming, sanding, painting, sanding, painting... Graft.
Nice video as usual!
Greaat work ive been having this battle for a few months my conclusion is sand, sand and more sanding then from barretine shellac sealer makes mdf edges silky smooth. Also please get yourself a small airless sprayer hurts me you having all that work painting by hand.
I recommend using One or two coats of clear laquer for the edges. After that a coat of primer or the paint. Looked good on my projects so far.
Correct, for me to the best solution of all.
My technique for edges is sand with 120, rub in some PVA wood glue into the edge. Dry. Sand again 240. Then primer, sand, primer again, sand, 2 tops coats sanding between. Tried 1,2,3 last time but found it didn't dry sand very easily. Pilled up a bit on the paper. But it did seal in the fibres quite well.
Thanks mate. I've tried PVA in the past but didn't think it made a significant difference. I suspect the sanding, not to mention commendable time and effort you're putting into this is as significant, if not more so, than the PVA.
@@CharlieDIYte yeah you might be right. I often put the PVA on during the making stage just to get ahead. But it probably does the same job as a coat of primer. I didn't mention but often it's the customer or another decorator painting the things I make. Often they won't bother or doubt know about prep so if I supply it sanded and pva sealed then it's a good base for them and I've done my best. (IG @woodshedfurniture )
Great video Charlie. I know when I've seen other videos, some makers have glued some thin pine to the cut edges. Not always viable bit gives a smooth finish.too..! Thanks
Thanks. Yes I did that here bit.ly/3dZJSup Not practical for all the drawer tops though, but I'll be using this technique for all the shelf fronts. 👍🏻
Great comparison of primers and good/cheap MDF.
Thanks 🙏
Thank you dear, your videos are so helpful....alumnium oxide is used in sand blasting so i would think those pads of yours will be very good. To you and yours, please be safe
Excellent timing, I'm about to get started building a new kitchen from scratch, the doors I was going to build out of MDF but had concerns about the edging and whether I should use MR-MDF or Standard which is more readily available.
(The Carcasses will be Birch Ply for the record).
I think the standard will be fine. Give it a good prime and use some decent quality top coat, and someone recommended this to me yesterday to prevent the top coat chipping amzn.to/2OPjz1y
@@CharlieDIYte the link is dead
@@vitex1231 Good point. The two options you have are Minwax polycrylic coating or polyvine decorators varnish.
I'm really surprised that no-one on any video i've looked at has mentioned Polyfilla fine surface filler. It is a super-fine texture and can be sanded to a practically gloss mirror finish with appropriately fine sandpaper. It was recommended to me 25 years ago, and I'm just giving it another go at the moment with some wardrobes i've had built for me but am painting myself. It dries in about an hour and is fairly easy to sand. I'd highly recommend it. The first time I used it was 1999 on some MDF bookshelves which I painted with a liquid gloss (oil based) finish - not something I would do now, but that was the 90s. Gloss will show up anything and these still looked great. I'm using Zinser 1-2-3 and i have to say it does really clog up the sandpaper... lesson learned there.
Yes Zinsser BIN doesn't clog the sand paper. It's like sanding the filler. I agree filler (are you thinking something like Easi-Fill?) would work well. I just don't like the idea of using a gypsum type product on wood. 🤔
@@CharlieDIYte Easyfill is too porous and powdery IMO, but the fine surface filler is super-smooth and hard and not powdery. I don't know what it's made of tbh, but it is the very finest finish you can get - I would say even finer than 2 part wood filler, and the adhesion is good too - Easyfill's adhesion isn't quite right for this use and it's best when not too thin. Here, where you're sanding back the applied filler to maybe 0.5mm or 1mm thickness, it would (I think) start to break down.
That said, I go to all this effort but Peter Millard is completely happy with just sanding and using the build-up of primer and paint to fill in any micro-holes, so maybe I'm completely over-egging it! I'm also a little in two minds about the sanding: if you don't sand *before* adding filler, there is more grain to get the filler into than if you sand before filling. So I can't make up my mind whether it's better to sand and then fill or fill and then sand. In fact (probably a complete faux-pas), I actually primed, then filled, then sanded...
Very useful video Charlie - thanks. Have a wardrobe build pending - was considering Medite MR MDF for the better end grain finish but this has made me reconsider.
Fantastic Charlie, thank you!
Inspired me to build my own wardrobe. This video has arrived just in time for my painting stage
Very useful & practical information & as always well presented.... Many thanks!
Thanks mate - really appreciate the comment 👊🏻
With regards to sandpaper, I recommend 3M sandpaper. It does not clog up as much as other brands; also, the grade of grit is consistent and it is easy to clean:
To clean, use an odd bit of sandpaper to clean your in use sandpaper or use an old bristle brush.
Mirka Mirox was a revelation for me - spent years thinking that sandpaper is all the same...nope. The Makita discs for my 150mm random orbit are utterly terrible in comparison
Or Abranet rolls, I use them for final finish.
@@wsurfa not all sandpaper is made of the same quality. I discovered this quickly when I built my first wardrobe which was inspired by CharlieDiyte.
Also, the same goes for those 10cm (4") foam.rollers. I have tried lots and found Wickes are the softest and provide a spray like finish.
Yet again another brilliant video Charlie. The level of detail you go into and the clarity of your explanations is absolutely superb. So often RUclipsrs miss off really important details. Just that little clip of the different orbitals and their prices is so useful for DIYers thinking of buying. I'm off to buy some Zinsser now for some MDF panelling I'm installing! Awesome.
I rushed my last cabinet DIY job. I skipoed sanding and primer and went straight to two coats of emulsion. It worked great. I just need to finish sand. Will let you know how it goes...
I think you mentioned this the other day. That will be fine but the only issue with emulsion is that it is liable to wipe off of you need to clean it for any reason. Nice chalky, matt finish though. I used it on a loft hatch in my bedroom because I was keen to match the ceiling paint colour.
I've watched all your videos on this subject and quite a few others too.
It seems most professionals go for the sanding method and not the sealing method I guess for the reason you mentioned in this video: time.
There seems to be one major difference. Some are saying use a thinned down or primer coat first and then sand, paint, sand, paint.
Whereas you've gone for sand first.
Any pros and cons to each method? Nobody seems to explore the two in one video.
Loving the series, Charlie!
One recommendation: I notice you use Spax Torx screws, but I'd strongly recommend ForgeFast Torx screws from Toolstation, they're less than half the price for the same size and quantity, and the fluted shaft makes them a dream to use, even if you don't pilot hole.
There’s another RUclips channel (I won’t name here out of respect for Charlie) that recommends ForgeFast very highly. I tried them for the first time last week. Then are absolutely great. Made light work of chip boarding the loft.
Hi Charlie. Big fan here. What too coat paints can I use over the BIN? Thanks in advance.
Anything, solvent (oil) based or water based. Solvent will be harder wearing though.
When Charlie says it's a game changer, best to sit up and take notice! 👍
Just found this channel, and I must say it's got me motivated to start on my bedroom! Why? Why do you do this to us poor guys who just wanted to sit down and watch a relaxing video? Goddammit. Anyway, thanks a lot mate and greetings from Germany.
Hi Chris - great to hear from you. Still plenty of time to watch videos, but you can't replace that epic feeling when you walk past one of your DIY creations 👍 Good luck with your next project and drop me a line if you have any questions.
B-I-N is great, not cheap for the wee tin though. I ran out during a job, but i did have a tin of Zinsser shellac Wall Paper Coverup paint leftover. Looks the same, smells the same, and the ingredients looked the same, so i ended up using that as a primer for everything else. Didnt chip off of the varnished woodwork i painted over either, seemed to grip quite well.
Hopefully doesnt cause any problems in future. But it was cheaper for a bigger tin, so it would be interesting to know if there is a difference if just using as a general primer.
Thanks for that. Interesting - I think I have a tin of that somewhere. I'll have to have a play around with it!
Great video as always, keep up the great content!
Thanks mate 👊🏻
I have used spray sanding sealer then spray automotive high build primer.
hi next time you are using drywall adhesive save some put several boards together and spread some drywall adhesive paste over the endgrain and lightly sand this will give good results
Thanks 👊
Another very informative vid, thank you!
Great vid Charlie, have you done any on nail guns ? I'm thinking of buying one & your tool testing vids are usually very thorough.
I haven't. Are you after a 16 or 18 guage nailer? I've got a 16 guage finish nailer, the Ryobi R18N16G and it's brilliant - no need for gas canisters. I'd recommend it. It's a bit expensive though if you don't already have the batteries. For stuff like fencing you'll want a heavier guage machine though.
I was looking at the ryobi nailers for general DIY, but not sure of the difference between the two. Thanks Charlie.
Think there was some advice on nail guns in Charlie's fencing video from a few years ago.
Thanks, I remeber watching that one.👍
I’ve jus bought the Worx 18G nail/staple gun. It’s really good, and very reasonably priced. Good range on brads as well. Always a deal on Amazon!
Very useful, thanks. I've replaced a load of skirtings with mdf, and was disappointed with the roughness on the 'moulding'. Guess its elbow grease time, but the mesh sanders look useful.
One thing on the wool rollers for the BIN - do you try to clean, or just bin? (guess thats how it got its name!). I've been using cheap foam as one-time sleeves.
Yes I'm afraid it is. I've got that to come because I'm routing a moulding on my faker shaker doors. Good question on the rollers. If using the wool rollers (also called simulation mohair) with BIN I typically wrap them in cling film after each coat, store in a cool place so they're ready for the next coat. You can make them last a reasonable amount of time this way - eg a week or more. Then when I'm finished with them I throw away. For the top coat, I tend to clean them. I've got a cunning technique where I point a hose pipe with the hose nozzle adjusted to a fine jet at the roller. It spins around at great speed and quickly cleans it. Very effective too on large roller sleeves. One thing - it's very problematic using BIN in hot weather because it dries too quickly and tends to rip the wool off the sleeve as you're painting.
@@CharlieDIYte I've found this good for cleaning rollers: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B009NK2YX4/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_C39518VVNPJQR3S5PAZJ I dont quite use as per their instructions, but I soak in water & then 'spin dry' a few times. (your hose would work too).
Great vid again Charlie, thanks.
As you may remember I am building my wardrobe and following this series closely.
But Zinsser is very expensive and I do have a ton of Johnstons MDF primer.
Do you think for my end grain I could use the BIN and then use the water based for the rest of the MDF.
I used nearly a whole litre of BIN on the outside only of a 500mm wide, 2m high cupboard a year ago and didn't think the BIN went very far at all, I used a foam roller too.
So reluctant to spend copious amounts on the BIN when I could possibly use it on the end grain only.
Thoughts please buddy.
Thanks Karl. What this little exercise has shown me is that it really doesn't matter what you use as long as you prep the edges properly - I painted my daughter's wardrobe with that Armstead you saw in the video and I've also used Johnstone's Joncryl primer to good effect. So yes you'd be absolutely fine with the Johnstone's MDF primer. It's great stuff. In fact someone's commented on this feed that they don't use BIN for MDF as they think it's too brittle. I don't agree with this but it shows that BIN isn't the panacea.
But late commenting but from experience the best way to prepare MDF edges is to sand them very smooth from the start ,I use 240 grit followed by one coat of primer . A quick flat back and that's all that's needed .
Great stuff Charlie! Thanks for sharing and inspiring.
Charlie,
Got a little project doing atm, and am wondering how you would do this.
Few years ago a bay window area had the old windows taken out and uPVC windows put in. For whatever reason, the lath and plaster ceiling of the bay area was only partially removed (guess it crumbled) in front of the windows and replaced with plasterboard, right up to some old curtain rail.
Was looking to replace this old curtain rail because over the years it has warped, likely because the plaster ceiling has cracked and bowed, as they do. I found out that the curtain rail wasn't even screwed into the joist, but the damn laths, so no wonder it bowed over the years. As I'll be putting in a Roman blind there, it needs to be level, or it'll just hit the wall.
The correct thing to do would be rip the whole ceiling area down and finish the plasterboarding job... but since the room can't be emptied, it's bodge time.
The joist is only about 20cm beyond the curtain rail, so I plan to screw a new rail into the joist and pull it tight so it brings the bowing plaster back up and holds it all together as flat as possible again.
I had considered using 12mm MDF for this (142cm length) and just using a bunch of screws along the joist for support. However, I'm still wondering if the MDF would be sturdy enough for this? I know one issue with MDF is sagging under its own weight over time, but this would be supported with a lot of screws along its entire length.
Plywood would be no question about it stronger, but also much more of a pain to finish due to the edges, and I'll be painting it.
You think the MDF would do just fine here, or should I suck it up and do the plywood?
I would go for plywood - particularly if there are any residual damp or condensation issues being so close to the window, so much stronger and if you bought something premium like birch ply, the edges paint up really well, as you'd see in this vid bit.ly/33m2JL7 where I used it for some shelves on my wardrobe project. Also, I'd worry about 12mm MDF doing the job without bowing.
@@CharlieDIYte Cheers Charlie. Yeah, it seems like, according to the Sagulator (I'd look it up if you've never heard of it), MDF will just bow under its own weight even at small lengths. Can barely hold itself up, no chance with heavy plaster wanting to come down on it. Seems like MDF is perfect for vertical applications, but for horizontal you really want a trim support or brace.
I've been looking up hiding the edges of plywood and it seems slapping wood filler and sanding it down is all that's needed. Dunno if it would hold up over years of the plywood layers expanding in different directions, though.
The more I try to do workarounds the more I'm thinking of just going for broke and ripping that damn ceiling down, at least it is right next to a window so the dust can just all get blown right outside with a big fan!
I've just made and painted built in wardrobes. Do I need to seal or varnish to stop and chips and scuffs? Thank you!
If you've used water based paint, it's a good idea to as it will chip or scuff. Whilst I haven't used it myself, the two I have been recommended are Minwax polycrylic coating or Polyvine decorators varnish in flat matt.
Hi Charlie, great video as always!
Your views on the finish you get from sanding first and then priming are very interesting, as Gosforth Handyman swear you are wasting your time doing that because the end grain raises again after priming, and then also your views on MR MDF are really interesting to me, because I was starting to sway towards that instead of standard MDF because of the views of people like Peter Millard, but you seem to prove there’s not much difference?
MR MDF is definitely more dense in my opinion and maybe a bit less prone to splitting perhaps?
Thanks Charlie, you've converted me to Zinser primers. 🙏🏻
You're very welcome Mandy. BIN is my go to primer for most things but you have to be a bit careful using it in the summer as it dries before you can get it off the roller or brush 👍🏻
great video Charlie.
Thanks mate 🙏👊🏻
I have been doing a lot of MDF cabinets, shelves etc recently on DIY projects. I have previously tried the leyland and wickes MDF primer, but find it hard to sand as it is a bit rubbery. Instead I have been using the recipe suggested by Peter Millard - Leyland water based acrylic primer. It is quite thick (watery primers make the problem worse) and it sands like an absolute dream. I apply using a foam mini roller. Once dry it sands great. I normally do 2 coats of primer to the faces and 3 coats to the edges, sanding between coats with 120 or 180 grit. The primer dries super fast so 2 or 3 coats is not a problem and it leaves a fantastic finish with either roller applied (hard foam) leyland water based eggshell, or that same eggshell sprayed (yes I still roller the primer, even when spraying the eggshell (for reasons I can mention is anyone is interested)). As the old addage goes, the secret to a good paint finish is in the preparation. A good primer recipe makes the world of difference.
That's really interesting, thanks. I think Andy Mac likes that stuff too 👍🏻
I also use the Leyland water based primer. It dries in minutes in the summer which makes recoating those edges so much quicker. I don’t even need to sand the MR MDF before painting. I just paint sand, repaint and finish sand.
Hi Charley,
Have you done a full costing of the wardrobes?
Great videos looking forward to seeing more.
Hi Charlie,
Apologies for spelling your name wrong in comment.
You spell it however you like mate 👊🏻 I stupidly haven't kept a spreadsheet as I've gone, but I will be doing a full costing in the last video. I was hoping to cram all the remaining stuff into one video but I think it will have to be two as the doors merit a video in their own right. 👍🏻
Great video ! What brand a paint are you using please?
Thanks. Zinsser BIN
Charlie I'm a recent subscriber to your channel, have you done/would you consider doing a how to on making corner cabinets? (I've got an uneven corner ensuite vanity to make in the future & would like to have a crack at it myself) Your videos are easy to follow with lots of necessary detail which many others lack
I know this is an old video but on the off chance you see this, did you have any follow up on that Samet wood filler? I've found it, and I'm looking at using it to prime the end grain on mdf before painting. Contemplating whether to buy this or just standard wood filler.
No, unfortunately the pot I bought went hard before I had a chance to use it - which kind of says it all. Maybe buy a pot and experiment on the first cut edge. My guess is it'll be easier to apply as you don't have to mix it but you'll wish you bought the 2 part wood filler as it goes off so quick. That said I didn't use any filler on the cupboards featured on this video and I never notice the very slightly textured edges.
Great informative and neutral video as always 👍🏼
Thanks Tom 👊🏻
Interesting the levels of available tools now days. That sander is great for DIY but wait till you try a mirka or the equivalent festool. Another level again! BIN is too brittle for mdf, we don't use it for kitchens etc as it can snap. Caparol haft primer is the one with their pu satin. Again...different level.
Thanks James. Totally agree on the tools but I couldn't justify paying those prices for occasional DIY. I'll definitely check out that primer 👍🏻
Some use a 1000grit on the edge before primer. Try it.
Hey Charlie. Have you seen the Evolution RV15 vac yet? I can’t find any reviews on it and am a bit hesitant ordering one. 🤔
Great video, do you wash before paint/in between coats?
Great video, cheers 👍
I've heard that MDF edges typically take paint better if you very lightly sand the edges to round them off slightly. True in your experience or unnecessary?
No, I don't think rounding them off is necessary. It's all about sanding down that end grain. Makes your life much easier for the in between coat sand.
I've always just used PVA for the edges.
Charlie, I think you should be given your own TV show!
Hi Olivera. Lovely to hear from you. Hope you're well. Ha, I don't think that'll happen any time soon 😉
@@CharlieDIYte You never know Charlie, the kids of today really need to be shown simple DIY skills!
Just use Easifill 20 for the edges. Works a treat.
I use that for nail holes to, it is a treat for sure.
@@xinixxagnix201 I know a professional wardrobe builder that uses this method.
I use both Zinnser primers BIN and Bullseye 123 but but even though you need meths to clean your brush after using the BIN it's still by far the better primer, especially for tannin and grease stains. Although Bullseye 123 says it blocks tannin I've found it doesn't nor does it block grease marks but BIN never lets you down and usually within one coat if it's a light stain, two coats if it's darker. Also be aware the Bin primer is quite thin, think a bit thicker than milk but in spite of that it has great covering power.
Don't buy Zinnser from decorator trade places they royally rip you off... example: Crown Decorator Centre wanted to charge me Approx £28 for a litre of Zinnser BIN, Dulux Trade Centre was cheaper at £26 ToolStation an epic and throughly decent £18
Thanks Dex. I agree with all that, and the other thing is that it cleans off the brushes much easier than an oil based paint, so actually it's not such a big deal having to use meths or their own brush cleaner.
My biggest problem with BIN for a novice is that it dries too quick.
Charlie thank you for this, it is very useful, especially the experiment that showed that MR makes little difference to the paint finish. It also appears you are developing a fan base that is more focussed on your appearance than the content.😉
The Bin primer not too watery then as some reviews suggest? Are you sure it's a Shellac based product? That's a natural Beetle Juice I believe. Nice colour that, what Brand paint was it?
Also I find those wooly mini Rollers to be awful at leave hairs and fibres in the finished work.
Definitely not too watery. That was my perception when I first started using it but it's actually a huge advantage that it goes on so thin, and the coverage is just as good as thicker alternatives. You have to be quite careful about the temperature when you apply BIN. If it's too warm, the paint dries too quickly and literally pulls the wool off the roller as you're applying it. If you're painting in the summer then you need to revert to a standard water based primer. Having used a foam roller for most of the wardrobe so far I've reverted to the wool for the drawers and am loving it. The top coat is a Johnstone's acrylic durable eggshell, mixed to a F&B colour.
6:05 It seems you didn't sand after the second primer coat? Do you find sanding after the second coat of primer is not useful or would that extra step make some difference if you trying for the very best result?
Yes Tony. The touch test showed it was beautifully smooth after the second primer coat. Not to say you can't stand though. You need to see how yours is feeling and act accordingly 👍
@@CharlieDIYte Thank you for your reply.
Hey Charlie - can I use a hand sander like the mouse type?
Yes, I don't see why not. You'll see if it's effective as it's quite obvious when the grain smoothes down 👍🏻
What’s with the lipstick Charlie?
I am a bit of a mess at the moment 🤦 Chapped lips so I wacked a bit of lip balm on and desperately need a hair cut...
Charley, I've just tried casting this to the TV for the first time, so a much bigger screen. Are you wearing lipstick? 🤣
I'm betting like me the weather has gone shite and ruined my delicate skin 🧐
Bastard! 😅 I thought the same but you beat me too it. Looks like wind burn.
Don't worry Charlie, I can see your 'lipstick' just fine on my phone 😉
P.s - No one likes chapped lips.
If I had a pound for the amount of times people have asked me that 🤦 No, it's a very manly variety of lip balm for my chapped lips 💪🏻. Plus I desperately need a hair cut. The problem is after promising early signs my wife is getting progressively worse at doing it. Booked her in for tomorrow night though 😬
@@CharlieDIYte getting my hair cut by the wife is like being tortured by a sloth. Takes forever and I get stabbed by the scissors constantly!
If your Ryobi was an improvement... imagine the geared Festool one :-) Peter Millard and Hand-I-Craft both reviewed them.
Wow, yes. I think the additional cost probably isn't justified for most DIY use though.
@@CharlieDIYte You’re exactly right... but imagine.
I'd like to know what you're thoughts are on the liquid mdf sealer your get, the quick dry thin stuff. I usually do a couple coats and a bit of a sand and it works well, I'm just wandering if you think it holds up well against these?
Also, I have youtube vanced for browsing most vids, but I don't mind watching yours on regular app and watch through the adverts as it gives you engagement and money :)
Thanks so much Aidan, I really appreciate that 👊🏻 I've got to confess, I've never used that sealer. I suppose you'd question the benefits of this extra step given that you're painting it anyway. Granted it probably makes the primer go further, but still ... 🤔
Great info - thank you!
How do I give this two thumbs up!
You just have Keith, with that comment. Thanks so much 👊🏻
Don't worry about the negative feedback the barbers are open now👍👍. I'm bald so I'll just be having my nails done this week 😂
I suspect there will be a bit of a queue at the barbers so I've booked in the Mrs for this evening. Got to get back the investment in those scissors and clippers!!
Hii I need an idea for a wardrobe design , figured out everything expected one part . Will you please help 🥺
great video!
unfortunately the Samet is out of stock although looks good
Don’t u have to paint a pva solution on end-grain to seal the porous service I was told by a chippy
I tried that Steve here bit.ly/3tqBbQl and it didn't really look any better than the other options I used.
What a huge project you've let yourself in for here Charlie. Not only a big build, but you're doing little experiment mini-projects within. Time for an end of lock-down hair-cut though? Ha ha, actually I don't care about your hair at all, or your, err, lipstick, err.
How about mixing wood filler and undercoat one-to-one ratio? That would save time just put it on quite thick and Sand and put top coat on? Has anyone tried this?
I love these vids
Charlie,
Are you wearing lipstick 😆
Not only educational and perfectly timed cause I'm about to paint an MDF job but also not afraid to wear a bit of make up haha.
No 🤦 I had chapped lips so I wacked a bit of lip balm on (the very manly make variety 💪🏻)😏
@@CharlieDIYte haha,
You make a really good point about the prep though. It makes a huge difference to the finish and has made me think trice about finishing my doors.
Thank you so much!!
You're welcome mate. 👍🏻
BiN sealer will stick to ANYTHING. Its a universal primer. Best stuff ever.
I have painted, Glass, Shower interior liners.
Z bin is the dogs.
Agreed. I just can't bring myself to use anything else these days 👍🏻
Is acrylic primer “water based” they all say water based or oil based non say acrylic on them
Yes acrylic is water based.
I wonder if the people that spray furniture and kitchens use one of these primers for their MDF edges.
Nah, two pack fillers, specialised paints and amazing amount prep. Ask anyone who sprays for a living, 90% prep to get a flawless finish
In my limited experience, the finish depends a lot on the quality of the MDF sheet. The high density sheets are the best.
Have you tried pva? Mix 70/ 30 pva to water. Then rub it back and paint.
I wish you could build my built in wardrobes
"Endgrain" is such an odd concept for a fibreboard when you think about it, but we know what you mean!
Yes, I couldn't think of anything else to call it. I suppose I should have said "end fibres".
Use ordinary white Emulsion for a primer water based and adheres very well and costs nothing compared to buying expensive MDF primers ! your welcome !
Samet filler isn't scalable. Imagine doing edges of the entire closet . That will take hrs.
👍👌
4:05 I can’t believe you weren’t wearing a respirator. That stuff stink!
First!
is the makeup DIY or are your girls responsible for that? haha hope you did not undercoat that with BIN
I'm a mess at the moment. Desperately need a hair cut and had chapped lips, so chucked some lip balm on 🤦
Are you wearing 💋
Dont paint , buy laminated ones
Are you wearing lipstick?
No. 🤣
@@CharlieDIYte I'm amazed that you take the time to respond to comments (even so stupid) on old videos like this one.
That's great mate, and thanks for the videos... they're very informative and remind me of Proper DIY who's started almost at the same time as you.
The problem with videos that contain reviews of SPECIFIC products is that they are of little use to the broader community.
It's not really a review though. The main thrust is to explain the benefits and suggest you get one for your battery system. There are a ton of reviews out there for you to peruse at your leisure.
@@CharlieDIYte You mean the sander? I was talking about the edge painting products.
That's what makes it useful though, knowing what products actually work, rather than general principles. And these are all easy to find.
@@benmjt No, they are not, different countries, different brands. It's difficult to know if you are comparing like with like unless the things that make particular brands work are made known. I realise that's not always possible of course.
@@vtbn53 I understand your point, but this is a UK based channel and I much prefer Charlie being able to review actual products I can get my hands on. Real-world tests are far more useful to me; I want to know how products perform and how/if they actually work. Lots of Charlie's vids are based around this idea if you look back, and that's one the main reasons i'm subscribed.