My truck takes all 3 gallons of oil every time. No need to add or subtract any after it warms up. If you tighten the oil filter 3/4 turn, then you’ll be able to unscrew it by hand when you do the next oil change. No filter wrench needed. Fleetguard filters are the best you can buy for the Cummins motors.
@The Yazz fleetguard are great but you have to watch out the mopar filters made by fleetguard have the lower micron filtering media where as when you have multiple options from fleetguard you just might be getting a less efficient filtering media just a heads up.
@@zackeryeckenrod6549 if I looked it up correctly , they source some components (filter Media) from Donaldson for but Amsoil assembles/builds the filter with multiple sources
Check your owner’s manual, but I believe all of these Cummins diesels use 15w-40. I’ve had a first gen, second gen and third gen and they’ve all called for 15w-40.
My top 10 tips: 1) Drain the hot oil and let your truck sit overnight, this will cool the engine and drain a lot of oil out of the filter 2) reinstall the plug in your pan and use a filter wrench with a long extension to loosen the filter 3) lay on your side and put a gallon Ziplock bag around the filter, finish unscrewing the filter keeping it in the bag 4) take your time to fully prefill your filter and put it in a new Ziplock bag 5) lay on your side and start screwing in the filter by hand, tighten filter with filter wrench 6) add the remainder of the gallon jug you used to fill your filter plus 2 more gallon jugs of Amsoil 15w40 diesel oil (and don't worry about overfilling it) 7) check the oil level on the dipstick 8) start your truck and check for leaks 9) don't change your oil every 5000 miles, (Amsoil says you can go 25, 000 miles) 10) if you plan on keeping your truck for a long time install an Amsoil EABP-100 bypass filter kit and change oil and both filters every10,000 miles like I do.
thanks for the tips - I see on the internet that people have switched from 15/40 oil to 5/40 synthetic. They say it improved mileage in diesels and still last long. What are your thoughts?
When I'm taking my old oil filter out of my '96 12V, I use a couple of wal-mart bags around the old filter to catch any oil that may spill out. Nice vid. Thanks.
When I had my ‘03 3500, I would add about a quart of oil before putting the oil pan bolt back in. You would be surprised how much old oil is still in the pan.
I have 1999 dodge 2500 24v 5.9L turbo Cummins. I've owned it for nearly 1yr now im the 2nd owner truck has now 126k miles. I'd love to find out what tips/tricks/upgrades I can do. Make this truck last forever. Ty J
I feel like that was a marketing move for Cummins and Valvoline. This has been confirmed by some engineers that live next door to me that work at Cummins headquarters. But we will never kmow
Very Nice but I would definitely not recommend that oil drain plug if you do any off-roading. I wouldn’t worry about a stick. I would worry about a rock shearing it right off unless you have a rock guard/shield.
I just did my oil in the 5.9 for the first time and used what the manual said for winter 5w-40 when all my buddies who have had their cummins for years run 15w-40 all year round. We got to the filter with bending the wheel well liner back and driving a screw driver through the filter to turn it off. We didn't have a filter wrench that could open to the diameter and still be able to swing in the space. I did not check the old filter to confirm the ring came off with it so I'm checking that tomorrow. This is a great video. Thanks for the tip on the drain switch.
Cummins are impressive. Ive got friends well into the 300s and they don’t burn any oil. Some leak a little, but nothing crazy. Pretty cool to be at that mileage and not have to add oil between changes!
Injectors are also an issue on the third gen common rail trucks. a failure can take out the whole engine if you get unlucky! That's the other common problem I see.
At your mileage you should just replace them to be safe as soon as you can stomach the 3k price tag for OEM bosch injectors. Stay away from the reman ones because they are more prone to issues. Bosch has a list of certified resellers on their website that you can get OEMs from. If a retailer isn’t on that list, then they’re selling re-man injectors!
I have, but for my application where I only drive about 7k miles a year, it wouldn’t make sense. If I was putting 20-30k or more miles a year on the truck that I absolutely would!
Amsoil is great but it is extremely overpriced and is not worth the money. My family owns a trucking company with 50+ plus trucks (40 ish isx trucks) trucks. We use rotella t6 and have had zero problems and have never trucks that have made it past 500k-600kbefore we sold them without any cylinder/oil related problems.
my family company runs that in their 50 + semi trucks and they never have issues. Amsoil is a hype oil. Might be slightly better quality but t6 is sooo much cheaper and its a good motor oil. We have never had an issue due to oil in our trucks. we have had several make it past 550k miles.
With your channel, can you get an affiliate code for AMSOil and the filters and then offer us all a discount if we show our Rotella container? Nobody I know runs it, and I didn't price 3 gallons before buying Rotella.
Would of been nice to see a rotella full synthetic vs amsoil full synthetic comparison. I feel like rotella t6 would be closer to amsoil full synthetic than their stuff you used. Good video, subscribed!
I have the results of that oil analysis but didn’t want to get all technical and crazy in this video so I just summed it up by saying the values were all better with Amsoil. I always though the amsoil thing was just hearsay until I actually got the oil analysis back from Blackstone with shell semi synth, full synth and amsoil full synth oil changes all compared on my truck in similar driving.
Just Diesels isn’t the rotella t6 full synthetic a 5w-40? I know a bunch of people that use that. But I live in sunny CA where we don’t have to worry about freezing temps
I have had one on my 05 Dodge 5.9 and with these oil pans that strip out over time . I bought a new 92 Dodge 2500 5 speed manual and after 10 years the drain plug on pan started to leak . That’s when I put my first Fumoto drain on it no more leaks. Then I bought 05 Dodge 3500 4 door long bed dullay and with in a month I put a fumoto and it is so nice just push up on lever and turn and out comes oil and it’s made to put a clear hose if you want .
I went to the dealer and got a filter and rotella 5w40 synthetic. I did not prime my filter since I have to turn it vertically then horizontally to install. Now I have the filter plug so nothing spills but I have to perform every 6 months since I do t put the miles on per dealership warranty? It’s a 19 2500 bighorn btw with 5,500 miles- any advice for a new diesel owner looking to keep the truck forever
If your warranty requires oil to be changed at their interval, do it. Best to get max warranty out of it rather than pay the price for failed emission equipment or engine parts. For the advice part: change oil at a regular interval and keep up on maintenance, should be a chart somewhere that says what needs done at what mileages.
@@elgroucho7563 be aware that the Factory Service Manual says you are required to prefill the lube oil filter. I want anyone that does not prefill to be denied warranty for not following procedure set in the manual. There are many idiots spreading the disinformation that it is not required.
@@walterk1221 explain how you prime your filter w/o the filter plug successfully? I’ll bet you can’t and won’t. It was hard to remove w/o making a mess the 1st time- I used a gallon zip lock bag to avoid the mess. Now I have the filter plug so I can prime and remove easily. Like I said I’m new and am trying to learn. Thanks for the info everyone
What does it mean if your oil is still fresh brown color after you changed it and ran it couple hundred miles and it’s still fresh brown is it good or bad?
I've always been told to never fill the oil filter through the center threaded hole, if for any reason there's contamination in the jug, it will be pulled directly into your engine, and that was from an oil representative. I put a plug or cork in the center hole and fill the small holes around it so the oil is filtered, it takes a little longer, but it's peace of mind.
Glad I found this just bought a mint 2004.5 5.9 ctd with only 100k. He said just had it changed but its as black as my 2002 with 2k on the oil.. 250k on that 5.9 5speed ctd still runs strong no blow by.. I have changed oil in that truck every 5k Since I bought it new..
I went with a kit that has two adhesive pads on either side of the pan, and two battery warmers. It's been on my truck for years and years, beat to hell with oil leaks, and still gives me no problems when the weather gets cold.
@@JustDiesels Thank you for clarifying, someone overfilled my oil by a quart and a half. local oil change and lube. I was concerned. when I watched your video it prompted me to ask. I am in the safe zone now. Thank you for the great information. Michael
Cut a piece out of the plastic inner fender. Pretty easy access to the filter. Drain oil and let sit overnight before pulling filter, For some reason the oil mostly leaves the filter and doesn't make as big a mess. I'd never sleep at night with that spigot drain plug. Beautiful truck!
I've used the Fumotu brass finger touch drains for 23 yrs and never had an issue. If it bothers you a small hose clamp can be attached to bombproof the vlave and secure the lever. My friend maintains a fleet of HD trucks,drill rigs and light trucks and installs one on all applicable vehicles.
@@davidanderson8469I'm only saying that I wouldn't sleep at night, not others. Apparently it is quite reliable. In 18 years and 400,000 miles I've had zero issues pulling the drain plug. Busting through icy drifts, over logs, dragging bottom on rocks in ruts there is zero % chance of tearing the drain plug off. I figure if it's not broke don't fix it.
@@nativeoutdoors1780 No there is a difference, there was a legal battle between mobil 1 and castrol. The term synthetic was lowered to Group III instead of Group IV.
What ledbar is that? Also, what is the name of the song you have in background, i wanna cruise around with my 5,9 with that song on full blast along with the turbo whistle living its own life👺
My dad work in a Caterpillar shop for years. And they did oil analysis on Caterpillar equipment and coal over the road haul trucks (semi trucks). What he told me was, the best two oils of the time. That were conventional oils. Were Delo and secondly Rotella. Pens oil was garbage. Valvoline was middle of the road. They did less testing of Castrol but he said it was very good oil. But that they hadn't done as much testing on it. I stick mainly to Delo and Rotella and I have had great success with keeping my engine oil looking pretty clean or slightly browned between oil changes. Don't ever use Lucas oil stabilizer additive in your oil. Because I did that on one of my trucks that the oil was always clean looking up to about 4000 to 6000 miles. And appeared to be just as clear as it came out of the bottle up to a couple of thousand miles. I added it to my oil. And it completely ruined my oil changes ever afterwards. Because I couldn't get the oil out of the truck all of the way. Now it black within seconds of turning the truck on. I never should have tried it. But you get in a parts store and see the display of it verses conventional oil. And see how good it coats the gears, and stays on them. So then you decide that it would be a good idea for cold starts, without thinking of the consequences of having that ability to stay on everything. Then after a couple of oil changes my truck was never the same. I am now of opinion, it wasn't worth having the carbon buildup that comes from not being able to get most of the oil out of the engine. Any ideas on how to clean it out, and restore it to not having that carbonized oil stabilizer stay in and pollute my fresh oil changes? Any good ideas would be appreciated. I would Perfer something that won't ruin my engine, or wear the bearings. Any ideas would be appreciated. Not going to be using Amsoil oil because of its price. Unless I find a great deal on their filtration system.
have you tried using an oil extractor? harbor freight has cheap ones, pretty much they suck out all the oil from your system with compressed air. maybe that then an oil flush before refilling will do it. might need a vacuum pump too.
@@jed3219 No not exactly have I ever used a oil extractor pump on this motor. But I don't know if that will be enough to get rid of the residue that the Lucus left in my engine oil. It seems like once you have soot in your oil it doesn't matter if you change it two or three times in under 100 miles it won't get rid of your problem. That has been my experience anyway. But I'll try it and see what happens. I was thinking of flooding the engine with some mineral spirits and then letting it out and then blowing air from underneath into the oil pan and seeing if it would clean up any. But I also thought that it would dry everything out and then you would have a dry start. But it could be possible to shut off the fuel on my p7100 pump and then just turn it over with new oil and a freshly primed oil filter. Then maybe it would get rid of some of the build up of burn oil carbon. Thanks for the tip.
@@thatgreyplatty6315 For Donaldson fuel filters I've seen them state both ways. On Fleetguard and Donaldson oil filters they show you put oil into the filter as well as on the gasket. With fuel filters it's not a huge deal plus I could see be worried about the fuel system getting unfiltered diesel but for the oil unless you're putting in used oil, then why not avoid a dry start?
@@ChaosViper67 all I'm saying is the mopar/cummins filters show not to pre fill the filters, to your point about what the manufacturer states. It wouldn't necessarily be a dry start as thier will still be oil on the internals.
@@tylerebbott5066 You would need to let the oil drain for days if not weeks to where that would be an issue. Now before you say it wouldn't take that long I have an n14 with oil on the crank still after its been sitting for 3 weeks. As for the filter debate Cummins has 2 reasons why they dont want you to fill the filter, one is the oil you pour in inst being filtered and the second is the have had issues with people pouring parts of the foil into the filter and that clogging oil passages. This keeps them from replacing motors under warranty when this is the issue. Before you ask yes I have seen it before and more then once.
Who the hell started this wives tale about prefilling the filter? You do NOT have to do it and I wish people would stop posting that gibberish on RUclips.
WHAT? The FACTORY Service Manual absolutely says the oil filter is to be prefilled! I own the FACTORY Service Manuals for trucks from 1990 to 2019. ALL say filter is to be prefilled.
@@tyrrellroach5872 only have to do it on a fresh build there is enough residual oil left in so there will be no " dry starts" and Cummins says not to anyway because you could contaminate. I don't believe it will all I'm saying is you don't have to do it unless the motor was rebuilt or brand new. I have built plenty on engines and hell gassers I didn't prefill on one in particular that's still running strong with 250k on it so this whole prefill thing needs to be put to sleep I say don't waste your time and prefill, unless it's newly rebuilt
Want a discount on Amsoil? Just mention my RUclips when getting a quote! www.dieseloilguy.com/
My truck takes all 3 gallons of oil every time. No need to add or subtract any after it warms up.
If you tighten the oil filter 3/4 turn, then you’ll be able to unscrew it by hand when you do the next oil change. No filter wrench needed.
Fleetguard filters are the best you can buy for the Cummins motors.
@The Yazz fleetguard are great but you have to watch out the mopar filters made by fleetguard have the lower micron filtering media where as when you have multiple options from fleetguard you just might be getting a less efficient filtering media just a heads up.
Donaldson=BEST
@@zackeryeckenrod6549 Amsoil is better than both.
@@blacklilac1408 amsoil is made by donaldson fyi.
@@zackeryeckenrod6549 if I looked it up correctly , they source some components (filter Media) from Donaldson for but Amsoil assembles/builds the filter with multiple sources
Amsoil will go to places oil has never been before !
5.9 Cummins tip: make sure it has oil.
That’s it
Where did you get your drain plug is an actual fumoto or the ex drain brand
Pretty sure I got it from the Genos Garage website if I remember correctly.
Google is awful but telling me I should use 5w 40 or 10w 30??? Why do you pick 15w 40???
What year is your truck?
@@JustDiesels 2004 Ram 2500 with the 5.9
Check your owner’s manual, but I believe all of these Cummins diesels use 15w-40. I’ve had a first gen, second gen and third gen and they’ve all called for 15w-40.
@@cliftonsargent1572 Definitely the 15w 40
My top 10 tips: 1) Drain the hot oil and let your truck sit overnight, this will cool the engine and drain a lot of oil out of the filter 2) reinstall the plug in your pan and use a filter wrench with a long extension to loosen the filter 3) lay on your side and put a gallon Ziplock bag around the filter, finish unscrewing the filter keeping it in the bag 4) take your time to fully prefill your filter and put it in a new Ziplock bag 5) lay on your side and start screwing in the filter by hand, tighten filter with filter wrench 6) add the remainder of the gallon jug you used to fill your filter plus 2 more gallon jugs of Amsoil 15w40 diesel oil (and don't worry about overfilling it) 7) check the oil level on the dipstick 8) start your truck and check for leaks 9) don't change your oil every 5000 miles, (Amsoil says you can go 25, 000 miles) 10) if you plan on keeping your truck for a long time install an Amsoil EABP-100 bypass filter kit and change oil and both filters every10,000 miles like I do.
Running oil in any engine 25000 miles is foolish
How come still put new filter in ziplock
thanks for the tips - I see on the internet that people have switched from 15/40 oil to 5/40 synthetic. They say it improved mileage in diesels and still last long. What are your thoughts?
My Cummins master mechanic buddy sees oil seepage with synthetics occasionally.
as a 5.9 owner just reach up and grab your oil filter from the bottom of the truck. you dont have to take off the air intake.
I personally like the top method but bottom works too! I just feel like I have a better grip on the filter from the top.
Brandon, some people have T Rex arms and a lift kit on their truck.
@@dubsbarry9963 some people have t Rex arms when it comes to reaching for the check
I just acquired a 24 valve and I’m definitely going to be referring to your videos!
When I'm taking my old oil filter out of my '96 12V, I use a couple of wal-mart bags around the old filter to catch any oil that may spill out. Nice vid. Thanks.
When I had my ‘03 3500, I would add about a quart of oil before putting the oil pan bolt back in. You would be surprised how much old oil is still in the pan.
Same here cleans out some gunk.
CAT oil filters are high quality too
I have 1999 dodge 2500 24v 5.9L turbo Cummins. I've owned it for nearly 1yr now im the 2nd owner truck has now 126k miles. I'd love to find out what tips/tricks/upgrades I can do. Make this truck last forever.
Ty
J
this video was great until you went all amsoil fanboy
Changing oil should be something everyone knows its simple and saves money
the oil is soo expensive, you have to send in all your personal info to receive a price quote lol
why would you need to take the intake hose off you ca easily access it from the bottom
I like accessing it better from the top. Just my preferred method over laying under the truck.
I do mine from bottom . to each his own.
@@JustDiesels access from the top gives you easy ability to check turbo shaft for evidence of excessive radial and axial play in the bearings.
15-40 Valvoline Blue Cummins recommends, that's all I use, over 40 years as a diesel I agree with Cummins
I feel like that was a marketing move for Cummins and Valvoline. This has been confirmed by some engineers that live next door to me that work at Cummins headquarters. But we will never kmow
Very Nice but I would definitely not recommend that oil drain plug if you do any off-roading. I wouldn’t worry about a stick. I would worry about a rock shearing it right off unless you have a rock guard/shield.
I do plenty of off road without issue! It only sticks down about 1/4 inch. It’s the least of the things to worry about under the truck!
Keep up the good Andrew love the info I'll definitely be switching oil in my 06 could I use this in my 12v as well?
Yep! Takes the same 15w40 oil! I’d use it in mine too if it drove more than a thousand miles a year haha
Great video Andrew! Glad to help and become a sub
I just did my oil in the 5.9 for the first time and used what the manual said for winter 5w-40 when all my buddies who have had their cummins for years run 15w-40 all year round.
We got to the filter with bending the wheel well liner back and driving a screw driver through the filter to turn it off. We didn't have a filter wrench that could open to the diameter and still be able to swing in the space.
I did not check the old filter to confirm the ring came off with it so I'm checking that tomorrow.
This is a great video. Thanks for the tip on the drain switch.
I just use a couple of extensions and a fluted filter wrench and access it from the bottom.
My 05 is at 211000 miles and i feel like it's never consumed any oil. After owning 2 subarus its nice having a vehicle that doesn't eat oil lol.
Cummins are impressive. Ive got friends well into the 300s and they don’t burn any oil. Some leak a little, but nothing crazy. Pretty cool to be at that mileage and not have to add oil between changes!
@@JustDiesels far as I can tell just the trans seems to be the only serious week point and I've had mine beefed up
Injectors are also an issue on the third gen common rail trucks. a failure can take out the whole engine if you get unlucky! That's the other common problem I see.
@@JustDiesels I'm still on original injectors and sign of when they need replaced? Or just something I should do before it's too late
At your mileage you should just replace them to be safe as soon as you can stomach the 3k price tag for OEM bosch injectors. Stay away from the reman ones because they are more prone to issues. Bosch has a list of certified resellers on their website that you can get OEMs from. If a retailer isn’t on that list, then they’re selling re-man injectors!
Great in-depth video! Appreciate your time and effort.
I think it's easier to change the oil filter from underneath. Great show, I watch all your programs!
Long extension , etc. Meeee tooo
1:10 Cleaner AND less messy? SOLD!
Have you ever considered the AMSoil bypass filter system for the dodge cummins line? I have been able to extend my oil changes out to 20K miles.
I have, but for my application where I only drive about 7k miles a year, it wouldn’t make sense. If I was putting 20-30k or more miles a year on the truck that I absolutely would!
The Oil filter is made by Champ labs
indeed it is a good oil but i'am a pennzoil man.
Amsoil is great but it is extremely overpriced and is not worth the money. My family owns a trucking company with 50+ plus trucks (40 ish isx trucks) trucks. We use rotella t6 and have had zero problems and have never trucks that have made it past 500k-600kbefore we sold them without any cylinder/oil related problems.
Glad you're trucks are running strong. If you ever want to take another look at Amsoil for oil analysis or bypass filters, here to help.
@@dieseloilguy1 are their bypass filtration systems for my 6.7 cummins in my ram that won’t void my 110,000 mile warranty?
@@dieseloilguy1 won't they ruin warranties if you run your oil longer than what is prescribed by manufacturers?
Can you share the details on your headlights?
I run Rotella T6 full synthetic in all of my diesels and it seems to work great.
Just moved from Mobil 1 to t6 hopefully it’s better
Same I’m gonna start to run amsoil signature series the one that’s like $40 a gallon
my family company runs that in their 50 + semi trucks and they never have issues. Amsoil is a hype oil. Might be slightly better quality but t6 is sooo much cheaper and its a good motor oil. We have never had an issue due to oil in our trucks. we have had several make it past 550k miles.
I’ve had one stick to motor and it was in my shop and I always look under truck for leaks and man a double oil ring leaks like crazy and quick!
With your channel, can you get an affiliate code for AMSOil and the filters and then offer us all a discount if we show our Rotella container?
Nobody I know runs it, and I didn't price 3 gallons before buying Rotella.
Amsoil is the best.
Would of been nice to see a rotella full synthetic vs amsoil full synthetic comparison. I feel like rotella t6 would be closer to amsoil full synthetic than their stuff you used. Good video, subscribed!
I have the results of that oil analysis but didn’t want to get all technical and crazy in this video so I just summed it up by saying the values were all better with Amsoil. I always though the amsoil thing was just hearsay until I actually got the oil analysis back from Blackstone with shell semi synth, full synth and amsoil full synth oil changes all compared on my truck in similar driving.
Just Diesels would love to see that in another video
Just Diesels isn’t the rotella t6 full synthetic a 5w-40? I know a bunch of people that use that. But I live in sunny CA where we don’t have to worry about freezing temps
Project Farm has done a bunch of truck oil comparisons. Amsoil won the final battle.
ruclips.net/p/PLjT3B9r2z3fXlvbP3tb9e056Q8O5krrCW
Fumoto drain plugs are a great purchase
I have had one on my 05 Dodge 5.9 and with these oil pans that strip out over time . I bought a new 92 Dodge 2500 5 speed manual and after 10 years the drain plug on pan started to leak . That’s when I put my first Fumoto drain on it no more leaks. Then I bought 05 Dodge 3500 4 door long bed dullay and with in a month I put a fumoto and it is so nice just push up on lever and turn and out comes oil and it’s made to put a clear hose if you want .
@@brentmcmahon8188 yep I got my girl one
With the hose for her Honda Accord
Are you paid by Amsoil to advertise their products? Serious question.
I went to the dealer and got a filter and rotella 5w40 synthetic. I did not prime my filter since I have to turn it vertically then horizontally to install. Now I have the filter plug so nothing spills but I have to perform every 6 months since I do t put the miles on per dealership warranty? It’s a 19 2500 bighorn btw with 5,500 miles- any advice for a new diesel owner looking to keep the truck forever
If your warranty requires oil to be changed at their interval, do it. Best to get max warranty out of it rather than pay the price for failed emission equipment or engine parts. For the advice part: change oil at a regular interval and keep up on maintenance, should be a chart somewhere that says what needs done at what mileages.
It seems that 6 months on full synthetic seems a bit much? Other people were saying that’s not rite go by mileage? Just trying to do my best. Thanks
@@elgroucho7563 be aware that the Factory Service Manual says you are required to prefill the lube oil filter. I want anyone that does not prefill to be denied warranty for not following procedure set in the manual. There are many idiots spreading the disinformation that it is not required.
@@walterk1221 explain how you prime your filter w/o the filter plug successfully? I’ll bet you can’t and won’t. It was hard to remove w/o making a mess the 1st time- I used a gallon zip lock bag to avoid the mess. Now I have the filter plug so I can prime and remove easily. Like I said I’m new and am trying to learn. Thanks for the info everyone
@@elgroucho7563 I sprang for the Lisle plug. On my older trucks I obviously didn't need it.
Another great video! Thanks for putting out some of the best diesel content!
I do mine from below with some extensions. I bag the filter and drop it down.
What does it mean if your oil is still fresh brown color after you changed it and ran it couple hundred miles and it’s still fresh brown is it good or bad?
I’ve got one on my 5.9 great for oil samples !
Hey Andrew, hope you’re doing good. Can you send the link to get the oil drain valve please?
Geno's Garage has them.
I've always been told to never fill the oil filter through the center threaded hole, if for any reason there's contamination in the jug, it will be pulled directly into your engine, and that was from an oil representative.
I put a plug or cork in the center hole and fill the small holes around it so the oil is filtered, it takes a little longer, but it's peace of mind.
What about 2nd gen
It's actually an almost identical process
Liked and subscribed, 2000 5.9 Cummins!
You should make a video about coolant
First
That’s LOYALTY! 🙌
Will the amsoil filter mount directly to the stock filter housing on a 12v?
Great video quality
I have 200k on my 5.9 - Is it too late to make the amsoil switch without leaks?
Avoid scamsoil. Use rotella or delo
Does your oil turn black almost instantly after an oil change ? My 06 oil blackens within minutes . is this due to the camshaft emission s setup ?
Yes and yes. Very standard and nothing to worry about!
Glad I found this just bought a mint 2004.5 5.9 ctd with only 100k. He said just had it changed but its as black as my 2002 with 2k on the oil.. 250k on that 5.9 5speed ctd still runs strong no blow by.. I have changed oil in that truck every 5k
Since I bought it new..
What kind go block heater do you have?
I went with a kit that has two adhesive pads on either side of the pan, and two battery warmers. It's been on my truck for years and years, beat to hell with oil leaks, and still gives me no problems when the weather gets cold.
That drain plug fit on a 24v 2nd gen? Or just for a 3rd gen?
24v 2nd gen has a different part number, but Diesel Oil Guy sells it on his site!
Subscribed
Very good video . Thanks
oil half way up the dip stick with the oil, won’t this endanger your seals? what about the fill hash marks from the factory on the dip stick? thanks
I should clarify that I’m talking about half way between the correct fill hatch marks! Not the actual stick.
@@JustDiesels Thank you for clarifying, someone overfilled my oil by a quart and a half. local oil change and lube. I was concerned. when I watched your video it prompted me to ask. I am in the safe zone now. Thank you for the great information.
Michael
Yeah you never want to overfill an engine!
do you still recommend the fumoto drain valve after all these years ? do you still use one
Yep! Every vehicle I own has one! They make oil changes so easy!
I use to work for toys r us as a diesel mechanic. We ran them on all our equipment. I know high way is different than of road but they do work great.
What kind of drain plug is that ? is kinda hard to understand the brand name. Something moto
It’s a Fumoto! www.genosgarage.com/category/s?keyword=Fumoto
They should make a shield for it. You know, just for that crazy-strong stick you mentioned.
Good info here, well done.
Great vid man 👍
Do you happen to remember the part number on your oil drain valve? That’s a pretty slick little doo hicky
Right here! www.genosgarage.com/product/dodge-ram-cummins-drain-valve-ftp-f104a/drain-valves
Sweet, thanks!
🤘🏾🤘🏾🤘🏾🤘🏾🤘🏾
What light bar is that
Onyx 6 30" curved Baja designs light bar
Hey Andrew Have you considered a oil bypass system from Amsoil?
I don’t put enough miles on my truck for it to matter, but they’re awesome if you rack up the miles!
Cut a piece out of the plastic inner fender. Pretty easy access to the filter. Drain oil and let sit overnight before pulling filter, For some reason the oil mostly leaves the filter and doesn't make as big a mess. I'd never sleep at night with that spigot drain plug. Beautiful truck!
I've used the Fumotu brass finger touch drains for 23 yrs and never had an issue. If it bothers you a small hose clamp can be attached to bombproof the vlave and secure the lever. My friend maintains a fleet of HD trucks,drill rigs and light trucks and installs one on all applicable vehicles.
@@davidanderson8469I'm only saying that I wouldn't sleep at night, not others. Apparently it is quite reliable. In 18 years and 400,000 miles I've had zero issues pulling the drain plug. Busting through icy drifts, over logs, dragging bottom on rocks in ruts there is zero % chance of tearing the drain plug off. I figure if it's not broke don't fix it.
Amsoil is 100% synthetic not full sir. Theres conventional -> semi synthetic-> full synthetic -> 100% synthetic
Doesn't full synthetic imply 100 percent? im pretty sure its just marketing saying its different
@@nativeoutdoors1780 No there is a difference, there was a legal battle between mobil 1 and castrol. The term synthetic was lowered to Group III instead of Group IV.
What ledbar is that? Also, what is the name of the song you have in background, i wanna cruise around with my 5,9 with that song on full blast along with the turbo whistle living its own life👺
What drain plug is that?
It’s a Fumoto drain valve from Genos Garage
@@JustDiesels thanks bro
My dad work in a Caterpillar shop for years. And they did oil analysis on Caterpillar equipment and coal over the road haul trucks (semi trucks). What he told me was, the best two oils of the time. That were conventional oils. Were Delo and secondly Rotella. Pens oil was garbage. Valvoline was middle of the road. They did less testing of Castrol but he said it was very good oil. But that they hadn't done as much testing on it. I stick mainly to Delo and Rotella and I have had great success with keeping my engine oil looking pretty clean or slightly browned between oil changes. Don't ever use Lucas oil stabilizer additive in your oil. Because I did that on one of my trucks that the oil was always clean looking up to about 4000 to 6000 miles. And appeared to be just as clear as it came out of the bottle up to a couple of thousand miles. I added it to my oil. And it completely ruined my oil changes ever afterwards. Because I couldn't get the oil out of the truck all of the way. Now it black within seconds of turning the truck on. I never should have tried it. But you get in a parts store and see the display of it verses conventional oil. And see how good it coats the gears, and stays on them. So then you decide that it would be a good idea for cold starts, without thinking of the consequences of having that ability to stay on everything. Then after a couple of oil changes my truck was never the same. I am now of opinion, it wasn't worth having the carbon buildup that comes from not being able to get most of the oil out of the engine. Any ideas on how to clean it out, and restore it to not having that carbonized oil stabilizer stay in and pollute my fresh oil changes? Any good ideas would be appreciated. I would Perfer
something that won't ruin my engine, or wear the bearings. Any ideas would be appreciated. Not going to be using Amsoil oil because of its price. Unless I find a great deal on their filtration system.
have you tried using an oil extractor? harbor freight has cheap ones, pretty much they suck out all the oil from your system with compressed air. maybe that then an oil flush before refilling will do it. might need a vacuum pump too.
@@jed3219 No not exactly have I ever used a oil extractor pump on this motor. But I don't know if that will be enough to get rid of the residue that the Lucus left in my engine oil. It seems like once you have soot in your oil it doesn't matter if you change it two or three times in under 100 miles it won't get rid of your problem. That has been my experience anyway. But I'll try it and see what happens. I was thinking of flooding the engine with some mineral spirits and then letting it out and then blowing air from underneath into the oil pan and seeing if it would clean up any. But I also thought that it would dry everything out and then you would have a dry start. But it could be possible to shut off the fuel on my p7100 pump and then just turn it over with new oil and a freshly primed oil filter. Then maybe it would get rid of some of the build up of burn oil carbon. Thanks for the tip.
Need to watch some youtube on pre filter oil fill,,, I would never pre fill filter,,
So you trust RUclips over the factory service manual. Cool story
The diagrams on the filter themselves even show not to pre-fill. People probably fill them wrong anyways same with fuel filters.
@@thatgreyplatty6315 For Donaldson fuel filters I've seen them state both ways. On Fleetguard and Donaldson oil filters they show you put oil into the filter as well as on the gasket. With fuel filters it's not a huge deal plus I could see be worried about the fuel system getting unfiltered diesel but for the oil unless you're putting in used oil, then why not avoid a dry start?
@@ChaosViper67 all I'm saying is the mopar/cummins filters show not to pre fill the filters, to your point about what the manufacturer states. It wouldn't necessarily be a dry start as thier will still be oil on the internals.
Have you ever had any issues with Amsoil causing oil leaks in any of your higher mileage trucks?
Zero. I’ve honestly been nothing but impressed with the stuff!
Just Diesels - Thanks much for the info brotha. Your channel is awesome!
@@kenwaller869 I got a 2006 cummins and I have been using amsoil for years and man this is the best oil out there
Beto Estrada: Have you ever experienced leaks being caused by switching to Amsoil?
@@kenwaller869 no my my truck os dry like Arizona no leaks at all
Top tip don't use scamsoil....
Why???
You’re an idiot
Amsoil is a killer product .
+1 on the drain valve, do not prefill the filter it says not to in the service manual
If you dont pre fill it tho, u can dry start it aka have the head running without oil for a few seconds...
@@tylerebbott5066 You would need to let the oil drain for days if not weeks to where that would be an issue. Now before you say it wouldn't take that long I have an n14 with oil on the crank still after its been sitting for 3 weeks.
As for the filter debate Cummins has 2 reasons why they dont want you to fill the filter, one is the oil you pour in inst being filtered and the second is the have had issues with people pouring parts of the foil into the filter and that clogging oil passages. This keeps them from replacing motors under warranty when this is the issue.
Before you ask yes I have seen it before and more then once.
Who the hell started this wives tale about prefilling the filter? You do NOT have to do it and I wish people would stop posting that gibberish on RUclips.
I don't have to go out every night of the year and change my girlfriend,s oil either but I do ,,,, because I like it!!!
WHAT? The FACTORY Service Manual absolutely says the oil filter is to be prefilled! I own the FACTORY Service Manuals for trucks from 1990 to 2019. ALL say filter is to be prefilled.
Don't have to pre fill the filter
I always like to just because!
Heathen!
If you look at the factory fleet guard filter it even says to so maybe it a good idea to even if you don’t think it’s is
@@tyrrellroach5872 only have to do it on a fresh build there is enough residual oil left in so there will be no " dry starts" and Cummins says not to anyway because you could contaminate. I don't believe it will all I'm saying is you don't have to do it unless the motor was rebuilt or brand new. I have built plenty on engines and hell gassers I didn't prefill on one in particular that's still running strong with 250k on it so this whole prefill thing needs to be put to sleep I say don't waste your time and prefill, unless it's newly rebuilt
You should pre-fill. * President Trump told me to.