I just have to give you props after looking through these comments -- you're a good dude, helping us all out and providing part numbers and ebay links... you're one in a million, Scott. Thanks for the channel, I hope RUclips is making it profitable
Thanks, the channel and comments section is still small enough that I'm able to respond to most comments. As for pay, I'd be better off doing something else with my time but I enjoy making the videos. Thanks for supporting the channel.
I just googled "chainsaw repair course" and see some online stuff offered and also a hit from the local technical college. Maybe theres something available in your area. I'm still considering doing a youtube series but there doesn't seem to be enough time in a week to get it rolling.
your videos have helped in past, appreciate you!!!. quick question, over revving husqvarna. carb spray in starter area kills engine..crank seal? or bottom end gasket? in your opinion high revving saw
Most Huskys take air from the starter intake and direct some of it directly to the carb. When you spray there you might as well be spraying at the air filter. You'll have to be more precise on where you spray.
My 440 husky starts easy when cold and runs good. Run it for 15-20 minutes and shut it off and when try to start again when hot or warm and is very difficult to start. But when I get it going it runs fine again. Does this sound like crank seals to or a different issue do you think??great vid btw. Tks for sharing.
Would this be the same on a 545 mark ii, mine just all of a sudden quit idling. Will crank when hold full throttle and will run if you keep it run. Think that’s the issue?
Excellent video Scott, Husky isn't giving you any extra room around to work in the air-intake and carburetor section of the saw with these new AutoTunes. At 6:15 in your video you are oiling the new seal. The workshop manual for a 372XP instructs: "grease the seal surfaces and tap them home...". What surfaces do you lube/grease? Both the inner and outer perimeters of the seal?
Sometimes you just have to do what you think is right and ignore the manual. Somewhere in one of those manuals it used to say to lube a bas gasket with chain oil before install. I asked Husky tech and he figures something was lost in the translation. I usually only grease there areas where there will be movement.
Yes those both get sealed first. I use an adapter in the spark plug hole. Sometimes you also have to seal the impulse hose and maybe other openings you created. For example if you remove the oil pump on this 562xp to examine the clutch side seal as you are pressurizing, the two pump mounting screws are tapped right into the crankcase.
Nice video. I'm still waiting for a video on how to long-term store your chainsaw. I only use mine once a year or so. I know enough to drain the gas. Anything else? Oh yeah I like the zooming in the video.
I prefer the use of canned fuel for this type of limited use. No need to drain it. You could oil the chain to prevent it from rusting. The only other raw steel parts are probably in the clutch.
The why can be varied. Debris wrapped around the crankshaft or internal debris like parts of a bearing. Age-stiff or degrading rubber. Bearing runout/overtightening of chain/imbalance of flywheel from broken fins or debris buildup. Will a dirty air filter cause a pull on the seals as the piston rises? Will a backfire push on a seal? Normal maintenance? I'd say not normal because a lot of twenty year old saws are on the original seals.
@@TheGreasyShopRag Finally got everything properly tested. I was able to use some rubber stoppers for the carb side sealing as you suggested, and I made myself a plate with a rubber piece for the exhaust sealing. Pressure testing revealed a leaking flywheel side crank seal, which I replaced, then she held pressure and vacuum for 5 minutes without dropping a hair. Can't wait to run it soon to confirm function. Thanks for your help with videos and answering some dumb questions from me over the past few weeks 🙂
If it was a warranty claim then Husqvarna will only pay for the parts that failed. If it wasn't a warranty claim then the repair is discussed with the owner and people have a lot of different views about chainsaw repair and parting with their cash.
@@TheGreasyShopRag I should have said impact. I like how it locks and you can torque the bolts down with it. Thanks for the info I am going to check them out.
Do you lightly lightly scuff where the seal rides before installing? Have you seen a decent generic seal biller? Great video, waiting for the next. Take care.
@@TheGreasyShopRag I have an older stihl blower. I replaced them. Oil was coming past , then thru the body’s half’s. As long as I remove spark arrestor it’s ok. Should I have done anything different? It mine.
I just have to give you props after looking through these comments -- you're a good dude, helping us all out and providing part numbers and ebay links... you're one in a million, Scott. Thanks for the channel, I hope RUclips is making it profitable
Thanks, the channel and comments section is still small enough that I'm able to respond to most comments. As for pay, I'd be better off doing something else with my time but I enjoy making the videos. Thanks for supporting the channel.
Thanks Scott for the video. you make all the procedures look so Easy
Thanks. Its like anything else you do everyday. You get comfortable doing it.
Really an excellent program and would like to take a class in the profession of understanding chainsaws.
I just googled "chainsaw repair course" and see some online stuff offered and also a hit from the local technical college. Maybe theres something available in your area. I'm still considering doing a youtube series but there doesn't seem to be enough time in a week to get it rolling.
Very helpful. Don't own that saw but the diagnostic procedures are always good to know.👍🍻
Yes the procedure is a common one. Thanks for watching!
Great video, love your channel.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing 👍
You're welcome and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the videos, where can i get an air tool like that
I assume you mean the pressure /vac tester. Search MityVac MV8500.
your videos have helped in past, appreciate you!!!.
quick question, over revving husqvarna. carb spray in starter area kills engine..crank seal? or bottom end gasket? in your opinion high revving saw
Most Huskys take air from the starter intake and direct some of it directly to the carb. When you spray there you might as well be spraying at the air filter. You'll have to be more precise on where you spray.
Nice fix Scott!
1. why are these seals failing?
2. do you have a favorite fuel filter for these?
thanks in advance.
@@harryharry3193 We'll get into the seal failure a little closer in a future video. The blue husqvarna filter 503443203 is the proper fuel filter.
What is the plate you put where the carb is on the leak down test? Anyway to buy one?
Husqvarna part #575298101 is the official part but you can easily make one from a scrap of aluminum. Use the muffler gasket as a template.
Thanks I think I got the same exact problem with the same exact chainsaw
Bummer. Good luck with the repair.
My 440 husky starts easy when cold and runs good. Run it for 15-20 minutes and shut it off and when try to start again when hot or warm and is very difficult to start. But when I get it going it runs fine again. Does this sound like crank seals to or a different issue do you think??great vid btw. Tks for sharing.
It doesn't really sound like crank seals based on the info given.
Would this be the same on a 545 mark ii, mine just all of a sudden quit idling. Will crank when hold full throttle and will run if you keep it run. Think that’s the issue?
Its certainly possible but there are a lot of other reasons this could happen. A pressure test is probably in order.
Excellent video Scott, Husky isn't giving you any extra room around to work in the air-intake and carburetor section of the saw with these new AutoTunes. At 6:15 in your video you are oiling the new seal. The workshop manual for a 372XP instructs: "grease the seal surfaces and tap them home...". What surfaces do you lube/grease? Both the inner and outer perimeters of the seal?
Sometimes you just have to do what you think is right and ignore the manual. Somewhere in one of those manuals it used to say to lube a bas gasket with chain oil before install. I asked Husky tech and he figures something was lost in the translation. I usually only grease there areas where there will be movement.
Well if I blow a crank seal on my 562, I know what to do. Thank you and Nicely done 👌
Thanks for watching!
Dont no how i got here ,but great vid ! D from Norwich England
Thanks for watching, D!
Getting ready to do the seals on a Husky 359. Anything I should watch out for?
Nothing special comes to mind.
do you know where I can buy crank seals for an old Mac 3214
Normally I'd say a Husqvarna dealer could get that for you but I just tried to look up that model and it doesn't come up.
I might try that flashlight in the tank trick next time instead of pouring into a cup to look for water
It usually works ok but if the mix is too rich that light isn't powerful enough.
How do you pressurise the crankcase from the cylinder head? Do you first seal the exhaust port & intake etc?
Yes those both get sealed first. I use an adapter in the spark plug hole. Sometimes you also have to seal the impulse hose and maybe other openings you created. For example if you remove the oil pump on this 562xp to examine the clutch side seal as you are pressurizing, the two pump mounting screws are tapped right into the crankcase.
That's a pretty cool tool
So many cool tools and so little money.
Any recommendations for where to buy that seal tamper?
Nice video. I'm still waiting for a video on how to long-term store your chainsaw. I only use mine once a year or so. I know enough to drain the gas. Anything else? Oh yeah I like the zooming in the video.
I prefer the use of canned fuel for this type of limited use. No need to drain it. You could oil the chain to prevent it from rusting. The only other raw steel parts are probably in the clutch.
I like your video neighbor.... what's that Puter cost ya 3 of your kind😂 LATER
Not to get too far into the weeds on this, but does the customer then ask "why?" Is it a manufacturer issues, user issue, or normal maintenance item?
The why can be varied. Debris wrapped around the crankshaft or internal debris like parts of a bearing. Age-stiff or degrading rubber. Bearing runout/overtightening of chain/imbalance of flywheel from broken fins or debris buildup. Will a dirty air filter cause a pull on the seals as the piston rises? Will a backfire push on a seal? Normal maintenance? I'd say not normal because a lot of twenty year old saws are on the original seals.
The protective seal found on the flywheel side, is there one on the sprocket side as well with this model saw?
Yes, there is a crank bearing seal on each of the two crank bearings.
@@TheGreasyShopRag Sorry for my bad wording. I meant that little white cover that goes over the bearing and seal...my bad. 5:12
@@albertkropp No, that plastic cover is only on the flywheel side of a 562.
@@TheGreasyShopRag Thank you!
@@TheGreasyShopRag Finally got everything properly tested. I was able to use some rubber stoppers for the carb side sealing as you suggested, and I made myself a plate with a rubber piece for the exhaust sealing. Pressure testing revealed a leaking flywheel side crank seal, which I replaced, then she held pressure and vacuum for 5 minutes without dropping a hair. Can't wait to run it soon to confirm function. Thanks for your help with videos and answering some dumb questions from me over the past few weeks 🙂
Where can I find the tapered seal install tool?
The taped guide is part #575346901. the piece you hammer on is 575347001. Try your local dealer and see if they will order it for you.
@@TheGreasyShopRag Thank you
@@TheGreasyShopRagcan I also use it on the Husqvarna 550 mark 2? can it be used on both sides?
Nice Job!
Thanks for watching!
My question is why not replace both crank seals ?
If it was a warranty claim then Husqvarna will only pay for the parts that failed. If it wasn't a warranty claim then the repair is discussed with the owner and people have a lot of different views about chainsaw repair and parting with their cash.
What drill is that?
The bit driver is a SnapOn CTS761A. The 3/8 impact is also from their 14.4 volt line. I don't think there was a drill in the video.
@@TheGreasyShopRag I should have said impact. I like how it locks and you can torque the bolts down with it. Thanks for the info I am going to check them out.
Do you lightly lightly scuff where the seal rides before installing? Have you seen a decent generic seal biller? Great video, waiting for the next. Take care.
I usually just inspect and make sure its clean.
@@TheGreasyShopRag I have an older stihl blower. I replaced them. Oil was coming past , then thru the body’s half’s. As long as I remove spark arrestor it’s ok. Should I have done anything different? It mine.
@@steveriggenbach90 I see no reason to mess with success.
Good video thanks
Thanks Henry!
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