Hallo Novritsch erst einmal möchte ich dir wirklich sehr danken dafür dass du das alles raus gebracht hast und dir so viel Mühe gegeben hast .Du bist mittlerweile ein echtes Vorbild und dein Erfolgsweg ist wirklich beachtlich ich habe dich schon seit 5 Jahren abonniert;)
1. very very accurate cleaning guide 👍 (like i learned it in 🇩🇪BW) 2. You should really add at least one sheet of the cellulose wipes to the SSG10!!! 3. A link to this video should be in your „Start“ Booklet! 4. I would love to have a part in the video how to change to lefty setup also!(i can do it, but for the beginners) 5. also pls think about to have a changeable knob with a 6 or 8mm thread and pls also for lefty’s 🙂 6. and again very very good guide, top notch! i am very persnickety in such things („Beamtenkind“ in German 😁)
Hey Novritsch I bought the ssg10a1 recently and had some issues with installing the m180 spring, eventually it fit but I noticed the m180 spring is longer and has a lot more strength, would you recommend still using it?
Hey Novritsch, Why should I choose the SSG24 over the SSG10A1, which is designwise almost the same but is much cheaper, takes stronger springs and has 25 yrs waranty...?
There's no reason to, unless you just like the way the SSG24 looks / feels. The SSG10 appears to have higher performance for a lower price compared to the SSG24.
I don't have a sniper but I'm getting the ssg10A1 later this year, should I buy the novritsch maintenance kit now for my aeg, it looks pretty handy tbh
Me gustaría saber si alguien me ayuda,para cada pieza cual usa ,el mecánico el aceite de silicona 100 cst o 1.000 por qué no lo muestra o no lo veo si alguien puede decirme
@@chuckberry1979 because he states "perfect out of the box" with a 25yr warranty but sells broken garbage then refuses to do a thing about it....other companies will replace or refund....novritsch is a freaking theif....
@@bloodymick7415i personally never had any problems claiming warranty on there products. Good luck getting any warranty coverage on China and Taiwan companies.
Btw you don't need to do maintenance to your airsoft guns but if you want your airsoft guns to shoot the best they can one of the things you can do is regular maintenance
Not even close to how you clean a 'REAL' gun. First thing that I am seeing is that there is NO scrubbing. Trust me, you aren't going to wear down chromed chambers and the like. Shooting it, maybe. By cleaning it? You would have to be the strongest person in the history of the universe (He-Man) in order to make even a 'dent' on even some of the 'lightest' of metals. Cleaning a spring -- OF ANY KIND -- you clean to dry it, then clean it about 10,000 more times. Then use a cleaning solvent and brush, dry it again, use a detergent based gun oil -- like CLP, then dry it again, then dip it into the solvent again, dry it about 20,000 times (or so it would seem), then take a clean patch (preferably a cloth, I know that some people swear by synthetics but you CANNOT be just a wuss and think that you can do anything. For instance, AND example here, do NOT put a dirty patch anywhere but a /shitcan'. DO NOT REUSE a dirty cleaning patch or cloth. You will inevitably put the same 'schmutz' back into the airsoft piece that you just took out. Never EVER do that. I do not care who made the gun, designed the gun, tested the gun, licensed the gun or whatever, -- if they say to do so, they are idiots and not only does it become the case with a REAL firearm, it also goes towards airsoft guns and ANY mechanical piece -- say a cam lobe or a inside thread of a spark plug etc. NEVER !!! This advice is wrong -- on EVERY level. Do NOT do it. As to cleaning it, you need to be consistent as much as possible, but cleaning after 500 rounds? NOT consistent. As MOST honest-to-goodness firearms owner/users know, you clean it EVERYTIME you use it -- PERIOD -- NO EXCEPTIONS. You take care where 'consumables' are concerned (rubber gas isolation rings (i.e., 'O' rings) or 'pucks' and/or 'shoes'. You make it/them as CONSISTENT as possible though. If it requires you to remove and replace (R&R) and that gets costly, sorry about yer luck! That's what you do -- PERIOD! Just clean it completely and consistently and use your head as to what to do and use. Expect at a minimum, an hour. Expect to go through 500 or more 'Q-Tips' and several types of materials, that $10 4 oz., bottle of CLP? Expect it to be gone. That $8 bag of patches? Kiss THAT goodbye as well. etc. Finally, as a side note, when oiling up a patch, drench that patch in oil if you need a heavy oiling. A 1x1 patch used for middle-of-the-road oiling? 1 - 2 drops whilst making sue that the patch DOES have a very small/excess amount of oil on it. A light cot (which should be your final coat (if you planning on using anytime soon) -- in most cases is just enough oil on the patch to see that it HAS transferred on to the object you intend to oil. AVOID OVEROILING IT! If you will be putting the weapon away for the season, a medium to heavy oil coat and re-clean it before use. If you plan to store it more than four months -- COSMOLINE it. DO NOT USE Vaseline or WD-40 for LONG TERM use as it will 'attack' and be corrosive to soft seals and soft materials like rubber and certain plastics. Not that the stuff is bad, just use it for what it is designed to do. Last note, if you use ANY thread lock(er), maike sure that the screw/pin or inserting material is free from contaminants, rust, oil, grease or ANY KIND. Make sure that what is being screwed INTO is similarly treated. Thread lock(er) is famously known to fail if it cannot expand and then set up and an incorrectly prepared surface will cause just that. Use DENATURED alcohol to treat those surfaces. As well, a tip about alcohol? It IS an astringent. It sops up moisture making things dry. It can EASILY rust your weapon. If you use it and the part is treated (and usually, should be) with alcohol or Acetone (or ANY astringent type propriety) do NOT forget ro re-lube, or you make face massive rust issues.
you are very meticulous and honest guy, thanks !!!
Hallo Novritsch erst einmal möchte ich dir wirklich sehr danken dafür dass du das alles raus gebracht hast und dir so viel Mühe gegeben hast .Du bist mittlerweile ein echtes Vorbild und dein Erfolgsweg ist wirklich beachtlich ich habe dich schon seit 5 Jahren abonniert;)
1. very very accurate cleaning guide 👍 (like i learned it in 🇩🇪BW) 2. You should really add at least one sheet of the cellulose wipes to the SSG10!!! 3. A link to this video should be in your „Start“ Booklet! 4. I would love to have a part in the video how to change to lefty setup also!(i can do it, but for the beginners) 5. also pls think about to have a changeable knob with a 6 or 8mm thread and pls also for lefty’s 🙂 6. and again very very good guide, top notch! i am very persnickety in such things („Beamtenkind“ in German 😁)
I needed this! Thanks🙂
appreciated for your video Mr. Thanks again
at 18:07... is it normal for the outer barrel to have a small (but seizable) side play (before being "united" with the stock)?
Great video it helped me to understand my ssg10 more 👍
Thank you, I can’t wait to get one!
6:04 all of the screws are off but it wont twist off it budges tiny bit but does not twist in the thread. any tips?
Hey Novritsch I bought the ssg10a1 recently and had some issues with installing the m180 spring, eventually it fit but I noticed the m180 spring is longer and has a lot more strength, would you recommend still using it?
The gun is made to use a spring above m190... And stronger springs are longer than weaker ones
I installed the same spring into my ssg10 and haven't noticed any problems
can we use one type of glue ?
thank you!
My ssg10 will not lock the spring back. Around 1000 bbs in m220 spring. Time to test the warranty
Just got a brand new ssg10. When I opened up the cylinder it was filled with sticky dirty oil....clean it out or leave it?
Do you need to clean rifle when it is new? If yes just barel or all take apart? Just got the package with rifle and dunno if i should clean. Tks
No but you should clean it and maintain it once you start playing with it.
@@novritsch-teching Many thanks, Nov. Awesome product, keep them coming 😁
Want to know . What of the screws need medium locktide glue when assembly?
Is that spring cut shorter? 9.05
somebody pls ansewr my cuesion if I have installed a action army chamber on my sssg10 can I still clean the inner barrel like sshown in this video
Hey Novritsch,
Why should I choose the SSG24 over the SSG10A1, which is designwise almost the same but is much cheaper, takes stronger springs and has 25 yrs waranty...?
There's no reason to, unless you just like the way the SSG24 looks / feels. The SSG10 appears to have higher performance for a lower price compared to the SSG24.
yeah every product has a life cycle
@@MM-jg8it performance is the same
Don't you think it's better to use silicon grease for the cylinder rather than silicon oil ?
Most definitely. And you can use it for the piston as well. But less is more just remember that.
What about the a3?
Good morning for me :3 have a nice day and I want this gun º-º
How do I get the cap off
I misplaced my hop up how do I fix it.
Nice man! :)
I don't have a sniper but I'm getting the ssg10A1 later this year, should I buy the novritsch maintenance kit now for my aeg, it looks pretty handy tbh
Yes, it's great
Can i do this with the A3?
Yes, i believe this was made before the A3 and the action is the same
I haven’t bought any guns for airsoft yet I’m quite new to the sport i want to be a sniper would you recommend getting the ssg10a1 as my first gun
no, go get rentals at an airsoft field first
No, get any electric AEG, get good, and then buy a sniper
To lubricate the cylinder, do I use silicone from 100 or 1000 cSt?
The 100 unless you play in the winter a lot
How often should you do this?
Can i use gun oil white lubricants in it
On any part without rubber
I love my a2
Can I use this tehnic for other guns(m40a3)?
Yes you can I have one😁
Kind of, most of this is the same as any other airsoft gun
Is it okay to do this whit brand new
rifle if it comes dry?
You can but clean it out with rubbing alcohol first.
Привет , возникла проблема на ssg 10 , низкая скорость 60м/с. ....
Me gustaría saber si alguien me ayuda,para cada pieza cual usa ,el mecánico el aceite de silicona 100 cst o 1.000 por qué no lo muestra o no lo veo si alguien puede decirme
Hi
How the fuxk you get spring guide out?
Have to take trigger box off
@@vprductionsI did it without taking trigger box off. Just have to curse at it a bit and it'll pull out
nur die echten abbonenten kennen diesen kanal :D
:D
If perfect ootb why so much maintenance....why the grinding....why the power loss....WHY NOT HONOR YOUR WARRANTY....WHY NOT STAND BY YOUR PRODUCT
Why ppl only complaining about this issue, if novritsch is involved.
@@chuckberry1979 because he states "perfect out of the box" with a 25yr warranty but sells broken garbage then refuses to do a thing about it....other companies will replace or refund....novritsch is a freaking theif....
@@bloodymick7415i personally never had any problems claiming warranty on there products. Good luck getting any warranty coverage on China and Taiwan companies.
But so should I not do regular maintenance to my ssg10
Btw you don't need to do maintenance to your airsoft guns but if you want your airsoft guns to shoot the best they can one of the things you can do is regular maintenance
Not even close to how you clean a 'REAL' gun. First thing that I am seeing is that there is NO scrubbing. Trust me, you aren't going to wear down chromed chambers and the like. Shooting it, maybe. By cleaning it? You would have to be the strongest person in the history of the universe (He-Man) in order to make even a 'dent' on even some of the 'lightest' of metals. Cleaning a spring -- OF ANY KIND -- you clean to dry it, then clean it about 10,000 more times. Then use a cleaning solvent and brush, dry it again, use a detergent based gun oil -- like CLP, then dry it again, then dip it into the solvent again, dry it about 20,000 times (or so it would seem), then take a clean patch (preferably a cloth, I know that some people swear by synthetics but you CANNOT be just a wuss and think that you can do anything. For instance, AND example here, do NOT put a dirty patch anywhere but a /shitcan'. DO NOT REUSE a dirty cleaning patch or cloth. You will inevitably put the same 'schmutz' back into the airsoft piece that you just took out. Never EVER do that. I do not care who made the gun, designed the gun, tested the gun, licensed the gun or whatever, -- if they say to do so, they are idiots and not only does it become the case with a REAL firearm, it also goes towards airsoft guns and ANY mechanical piece -- say a cam lobe or a inside thread of a spark plug etc. NEVER !!! This advice is wrong -- on EVERY level. Do NOT do it. As to cleaning it, you need to be consistent as much as possible, but cleaning after 500 rounds? NOT consistent. As MOST honest-to-goodness firearms owner/users know, you clean it EVERYTIME you use it -- PERIOD -- NO EXCEPTIONS. You take care where 'consumables' are concerned (rubber gas isolation rings (i.e., 'O' rings) or 'pucks' and/or 'shoes'. You make it/them as CONSISTENT as possible though. If it requires you to remove and replace (R&R) and that gets costly, sorry about yer luck! That's what you do -- PERIOD! Just clean it completely and consistently and use your head as to what to do and use. Expect at a minimum, an hour. Expect to go through 500 or more 'Q-Tips' and several types of materials, that $10 4 oz., bottle of CLP? Expect it to be gone. That $8 bag of patches? Kiss THAT goodbye as well. etc. Finally, as a side note, when oiling up a patch, drench that patch in oil if you need a heavy oiling. A 1x1 patch used for middle-of-the-road oiling? 1 - 2 drops whilst making sue that the patch DOES have a very small/excess amount of oil on it. A light cot (which should be your final coat (if you planning on using anytime soon) -- in most cases is just enough oil on the patch to see that it HAS transferred on to the object you intend to oil. AVOID OVEROILING IT! If you will be putting the weapon away for the season, a medium to heavy oil coat and re-clean it before use. If you plan to store it more than four months -- COSMOLINE it. DO NOT USE Vaseline or WD-40 for LONG TERM use as it will 'attack' and be corrosive to soft seals and soft materials like rubber and certain plastics. Not that the stuff is bad, just use it for what it is designed to do. Last note, if you use ANY thread lock(er), maike sure that the screw/pin or inserting material is free from contaminants, rust, oil, grease or ANY KIND. Make sure that what is being screwed INTO is similarly treated. Thread lock(er) is famously known to fail if it cannot expand and then set up and an incorrectly prepared surface will cause just that. Use DENATURED alcohol to treat those surfaces. As well, a tip about alcohol? It IS an astringent. It sops up moisture making things dry. It can EASILY rust your weapon. If you use it and the part is treated (and usually, should be) with alcohol or Acetone (or ANY astringent type propriety) do NOT forget ro re-lube, or you make face massive rust issues.
Novritsch oils up at 10:26. Thank me later boys