Nissan X-Trail T31 repair heater cable, replace cabin air filter, remove glove box, remove radio
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
- Shows how to remove the dash panel of a 2012 Nissan X-Trail T31 right hand drive 2wd to access and repair the heater cable, plus how to replace the cabin air filter.
Thanks mate, very helpful, saved me 200-300 bucks, appreciate the time you took to make this.
Had exactly the same problem with my T31. The problem is inside the heater itself where the shutters move to redirect the cold air and warm air, depending on what you want. After a while the shutter mechanisms become worn and heat can make the seals around the edges of the shutters sticky and perish. Eventually the lever mechanism that turns that little white cog jumps and the cable gets stretched out. So if you can just turn that little white cog that is the direct drive to the shutters (like he did with the screwdriver) you can regulate the heater! But all the cables and levers and cogs just make the system seem over engineered when wear and tear sets in. I do it manually now, I left the plastic heater vent to the floor off and just remove the side panel near the passengers right foot to get easy access to the mechanism and help the mechanism turn while turning the control knob. It takes 2 hands and a little practise but you can have air con and a heater without having to change the whole heating/cooling system. Which is probably out of the question anyway.
Oh, and disconnect the battery before pulling out radios and disconnecting cables. The electronics are very sensitive and if you don’t, you might get warning lamps blinking that didn’t before. My airbag lamp blinks now 🤷♂️ I must have got close to the passenger airbag and it didn’t like it.
Another thing, the cabin filter is easy to change without the glovebox in the way. You have to squash the filter to get it in or out otherwise, talk about an after thought!
Good luck!
This is a life saver - thank you
the black plastic swivel cog for me where the wire cable clips onto has snapped off.... wreckers here i come!
Thanks mate, I am having the same problem with mine, the hot / cold air dial has been stiff for a while and now the hot won't shut off fully. Your work should save me a lot of time diagnosing the problem I know exactly what to look for now, I will tackle it tomorrow. Well done and thanks 👍
I adjusted the cable length by releasing the bracket clamp and sliding the cable outer along a tiny bit. I now have 100% cold air but only, say, 95% hot air.
So earlier were you getting warm air.
In my car when I turn the temp control knob to max cold. And turn the fan on , warm air comes through the vent. Is that the issue you were facing. Thanks.
My engine seems to hot too. But the engine temp gauge inside the car goes up to the normal level and stays there.
Great informative video Adam. Explained and shown in a very clear method. Thank you I have learnt alot.
Nicely detailed video mate. Wondering there was no need to take drivers side panel off to reach cable. Anyway, great effort.
The star head screw goes onto that mechanism that has the teeth on ( the one that slipped a few teeth )
Hi, very usefull video, I have the same issue, tomorrow will try, but I am left hand driver so I will have to fight with Pedals as well.
thank you!
What I should have done instead of bending the cable was to move the cable sheath back within the black clip that holds it, until the cable end was aligned.
Thanks a mil. I jave this exact problem. Ill check it out soon.
Note: I forgot to plug the glovebox light back in!
Same issue on 2012 TS model. It think the issue is wear of the components (internal to the main unit) as well as age of the black plastic cam? (which the cable connects to). The black plastic cam is suffering from age and the plastic is getting softer and bendy as it ages. I am guessing there is a baffle inside the main box in front of the heater core. With age this is likely not moving as freely as when new. Doesn't seem too bad with a screw driver though. To help, I bent the bracket for the cable in towards the cam to help hold it back in against the gear. We'll see how long this lasts. Have to treat it with a lot of TLC when operating it from now on.
Great video just what I need thanks.
Hey Adam I have the same issue 😒. I'll try this method. Let's see if this works. Cheers 🍻
I'm having this EXACT issue.
Did you get a part number for the black part that rotates or a reason why it goes off the gear teeth? I think the black piece is just fatigued, or where the cable is screwed in, that ancho could be fatigued.
I think it's just a weak design with too much flex. When the cable starts to get a bit stiff it flexes out of alignment. Probably a good idea to get some lube in the cable. You can also adjust the cable length using the bracket that holds the cable sheath. Moving the cable sheath back a bit to account for a stretched cable may help. I found that the plastic parts themselves were not damaged or fatigued in any way.
Thanks mate your video was very helpful. I was able to access everything without all the trouble you went to. Ended up leaving the cable disconnected and in the cold setting. Temporary till I can sort it out. Thanks again.
Seems plastic wear is causing my friction, and not the little gear. I'll be cleaning the cogs and faces, then putting silicone grease on the cogs and spray into the wire runner for max lubeylube
Thanks for this ✌🏻
Mine is has the steering wheel on the correct side though 🤗, i hope it’s easier to access than removing the glove box
Thanks so much for this video. I have the same issue, except that with mine the actual plastic wheels seem to be worn out too. 🤦🏾
So I’m left with going through your entire process twice a year, just before summer so that I can cool air. And just before winter so that I can have a heater. Does anyone know if replacement parts are available for sale anywhere?
Great Job! Learned so much how to avoid mistakes sorting this Problem out on my LНD xTrail. I still think the Root cause was a Filter not fitting completely the box.. Then dust did bypass it and settled on lubricant of Internal Gears of an "Air mix door" (a Shutter) inside. Similar to followin Leftie Qasqai - ruclips.net/video/P65B8WNE1U0/видео.html&ab_channel=%D0%A1%D0%B5%D1%80%D0%B3%D0%B5%D0%B9%D0%97%D0%B0%D1%85%D0%B0%D1%80%D0%BE%D0%B2
The cable moves back I found
I've been battling the same issue for hours, so glad I found this! Now I've gotta find a way to clean out the filter cavity, mine is full of gunk 😬
Saved me $1500 thanks for the help
I made up a reinforcing backing plate for the black lever to stop the flex, helps to stiffen and align the teeth.
Good idea, do you have a photo?