Many thanks, so interesting ! I am actually working on my own tin miniature as an amateur (with a simple "hot pot II" ) As tin is rather expensive I'd like to mix something with it, maybe avoiding using lead because of his bad toxic réputation.., Something with bismuth & zinc ? I found very few information on the web about alloys... what kind of alloy do you use ??
I use Pewter 92, a lead-free pewter. It’s not cheap, at 92% tin. 🙂 Pretty much all the work on viable tin and tin-lead alloys has been done, and mixing your own based on no knowledge is fraught with problems. I have a background in metallurgy and am happy to accept the formulations worked out by suppliers of casting alloys and low-melt alloys, because they know what works and what the properties of each particular alloy are. I wouldn’t use zinc: high melting point and wears out moulds faster. The cheap casting options are usually tin/lead/bismuth alloys. Some lead is inevitable. Geo W Neale, for example, offers the Grade L formulation, which is relatively cheap: it’s terrible to cast with for small pieces. If you have access to Prince August metals meant for drop cast moulds, although expensive they are viable for hobbyist castings.
The dished cavity in the bottom of the mould makes the rubber far thinner there, so it's too easy to cut all the way through the mould by accident, especially if using a scalpel rather than a lino cutter. I have a number of moulds made by other people that are cut unto the bottom, and the network of cuts into the rubber makes for a less durable mould.
The main virtue of the silicone is it is low-temperature curing, which minimises shrinkage, especially if the moulds are pre-heated to 80degC (near to their vulcanising temperature) before casting. The cream formula discs are suitable for tin-lead alloys or pewter, so typically 280-330degC for metal casting temperature, and again pre-warming the moulds helps the casting process for lighter alloys such as modern pewter. High-temperature silicone moulding discs are available for alloys such as Zamak, but the shrinkage is greater. Tear-resistance is OK: I have silicone moulds that have done 10 years and are still perfect; others, just two years before some cavities are useless. The nature of the castings has the biggest impact on mould life: too many deep undercuts will destroy any mould quickly, even traditional organic black rubber
Hi Mr. Saunders...thanks for the informative videos on spin casting. I wonder if you know where i EU og GB I can buy 18" silicone moulds. I need moulds for both White Metal. Zinc an plastic. Any help would be greatly appriciated.
@@MrSaundersMiniaturesWorkshop Thank you and sorry for the late reply....i'm used to get notifications on other platforms when people answers😊 I have one follow up question. I suppose you have an expensive specialized press/heater for vulcanizing. Is there any reason why I couldn't just bolt the top plate to the mold form and put it in an oven in stead of usinge a press/heater? This would save me a lot of money I guess. By the way.. Your videos are well made and very informstive. A great help for an upcoming spinn caster. Best regards Werner
Hi Werner, I've noticed I'm not always getting notifications about comments too, so sorry about the late reply. There is a company that sells a mould can that you can just put in a domestic oven (www.spinboxcasting.com) as a cheaper option than a vulcanizing press. Domestic ovens take longer to warm up the can assembly and you need to allow more time for the rubber to cure. The press I use is now detailed at ruclips.net/video/mFyGCJAEqQA/видео.html For any home lash-up with bolts, you have to be careful that everything is robust enough: pressure can force bolt heads off and they'll ping around the oven with some speed. :-)
@@MrSaundersMiniaturesWorkshop Sir, do you offer cast white metal figures services from the mold ? i am looking for some one help me to cast white metal figures.
@@hoaquyenluu7780 No. I've done casting in the past for other people, but don't do so any more. I am now just concentrating on casting my own products, which keeps me busy enough.
in 2023 keep cutting the rubber to find the pair above below. just make a mark with the sharpie without cutting a corner of the rubber. It's simple, just experiment. to let the air out? just make a hole with a drill bit at 2.5 and make the air outlet trace outside
Drill throughs are a last resort: they tend to block in time. They can also create “mould spiders” that customers don’t like the hassle of removing. Notches are easy to feel and find as well as being visual.
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Thanks for showing us this detailed tutorial
Great videos, sir. I’m starting in the mini painting hobby and I was wondering how are the miniatures made. Thanks for your time making these videos!
Thanks. I aim to add more videos when I have time. I’m currently too busy casting!
thank you very much i'm seeing your work here in BRAZIL.
Nice to know I have an international audience :-)
Many thanks, so interesting ! I am actually working on my own tin miniature as an amateur (with a simple "hot pot II" ) As tin is rather expensive I'd like to mix something with it, maybe avoiding using lead because of his bad toxic réputation.., Something with bismuth & zinc ? I found very few information on the web about alloys... what kind of alloy do you use ??
I use Pewter 92, a lead-free pewter. It’s not cheap, at 92% tin. 🙂 Pretty much all the work on viable tin and tin-lead alloys has been done, and mixing your own based on no knowledge is fraught with problems. I have a background in metallurgy and am happy to accept the formulations worked out by suppliers of casting alloys and low-melt alloys, because they know what works and what the properties of each particular alloy are. I wouldn’t use zinc: high melting point and wears out moulds faster. The cheap casting options are usually tin/lead/bismuth alloys. Some lead is inevitable. Geo W Neale, for example, offers the Grade L formulation, which is relatively cheap: it’s terrible to cast with for small pieces. If you have access to Prince August metals meant for drop cast moulds, although expensive they are viable for hobbyist castings.
This is a great series as I have been learning to cut a mold….Why are the gates cut in the top not the bottom?
The dished cavity in the bottom of the mould makes the rubber far thinner there, so it's too easy to cut all the way through the mould by accident, especially if using a scalpel rather than a lino cutter. I have a number of moulds made by other people that are cut unto the bottom, and the network of cuts into the rubber makes for a less durable mould.
Were you involved in international intrigue? I see Simon Templar paid you a visit.
Saints alive! He did :-)
The silicone rubber is high tear strength or high temperature resistant?
The main virtue of the silicone is it is low-temperature curing, which minimises shrinkage, especially if the moulds are pre-heated to 80degC (near to their vulcanising temperature) before casting. The cream formula discs are suitable for tin-lead alloys or pewter, so typically 280-330degC for metal casting temperature, and again pre-warming the moulds helps the casting process for lighter alloys such as modern pewter. High-temperature silicone moulding discs are available for alloys such as Zamak, but the shrinkage is greater. Tear-resistance is OK: I have silicone moulds that have done 10 years and are still perfect; others, just two years before some cavities are useless. The nature of the castings has the biggest impact on mould life: too many deep undercuts will destroy any mould quickly, even traditional organic black rubber
Hi Mr. Saunders...thanks for the informative videos on spin casting. I wonder if you know where i EU og GB I can buy 18" silicone moulds. I need moulds for both White Metal. Zinc an plastic. Any help would be greatly appriciated.
Try J Coker of Faversham (j-coker.co.uk/), or Nicem of Italy at www.nicem.it/ (or via Hewitt-Impex in the UK - www.hewitt-impex.co.uk/).
@@MrSaundersMiniaturesWorkshop Thank you and sorry for the late reply....i'm used to get notifications on other platforms when people answers😊
I have one follow up question. I suppose you have an expensive specialized press/heater for vulcanizing. Is there any reason why I couldn't just bolt the top plate to the mold form and put it in an oven in stead of usinge a press/heater? This would save me a lot of money I guess.
By the way.. Your videos are well made and very informstive. A great help for an upcoming spinn caster.
Best regards
Werner
Hi Werner, I've noticed I'm not always getting notifications about comments too, so sorry about the late reply. There is a company that sells a mould can that you can just put in a domestic oven (www.spinboxcasting.com) as a cheaper option than a vulcanizing press. Domestic ovens take longer to warm up the can assembly and you need to allow more time for the rubber to cure. The press I use is now detailed at ruclips.net/video/mFyGCJAEqQA/видео.html For any home lash-up with bolts, you have to be careful that everything is robust enough: pressure can force bolt heads off and they'll ping around the oven with some speed. :-)
Thanks ...Brasil
Hello Sir ! Where can I get you spinng cast machine and how much is't please?
I picked mine up secondhand on eBay. Prices vary from £500 to £1500 when they become available.
@@MrSaundersMiniaturesWorkshop Sir, do you offer cast white metal figures services from the mold ? i am looking for some one help me to cast white metal figures.
@@hoaquyenluu7780 No. I've done casting in the past for other people, but don't do so any more. I am now just concentrating on casting my own products, which keeps me busy enough.
We are making this machines, include silicon, spin casting machine, mold press machine and furnace, whatsapp:+86 186 6510 8288
in 2023 keep cutting the rubber to find the pair above below. just make a mark with the sharpie without cutting a corner of the rubber. It's simple, just experiment. to let the air out? just make a hole with a drill bit at 2.5 and make the air outlet trace outside
Drill throughs are a last resort: they tend to block in time. They can also create “mould spiders” that customers don’t like the hassle of removing. Notches are easy to feel and find as well as being visual.
Si le ponemos. 4tornillos no sería más rapido