Thanks for uploading this. I need to replace the seal on my rear axle. It has disc brakes already and was trying to picture in my mind how this all went. :)
solaceofwinter Yep, just remove that hub assembly like in the video and your seal is right there. Clean the spindle where the seal contacts it too. My vid "14 bolt full floater disk brake build" shows how to set your bearing preload and such, then you'll be on your way!
JEEP J201981, Good question! There is a gear ratio break that determines which carrier will work with which gears. What gears are you running right now?
aux1z11...i have a 97 4x4 k3500 dually that's pushing 190,000 miles, is a plow truck and worked hard. the truck is having issues in rear end....when backing up there is a rapid vibration if accelerating in a hurried manner! almost like mini wheel hops on the snow covered pavement....have you encountered this and did you make repairs? any input would be helpful......thanx
@@GebBuilt no but serious. Both sides. The ones that are held in with the c clip. I was thinking maybe that's why they are held in with a c clip. The races are definetly loose.
HI, SIR I HAVE A QUESTION CAN I USE 4.56 GEARS ON A STOCK GEAR CARRIER , ??? I HAVE A ONE TON GM 14 BOLT THAT ALREADY HAVE A MINI SPOOL I JUST WANT 4.56 GEARS THANKS
I need to correct you so you understand and do this critical adjustment correctly as it seems you think you need to preload the tapered wheel bearings like you do for a differential and pinion gear. You do NOT preload wheel bearings, ever. At 5:30 you start to remove the first outer lock nut and you say "that's a little more preload than I like". That outer nut is not controlling your preload it's a jam nut or lock nut. Secondly around 6:40 when you're removing the inner nut you call it the locknut which is incorrect. This inner nut is actually the nut the controls the "preload" on your wheel bearing which you say feels better. Let me clarify this though, you NEVER preload or tighten that nut for final adjustment. Every factory service manual tells you to torque it down to maybe 20 or 30 ft lbs while rotating the wheel simply to make sure the bearings are fully seated. Then they tell you the critical and most important step. They tell you to back off the nut and just go finger tight. No torquing that nut no tightening that nut just go finger tight. That ensures that you don't preload the wheel bearing! On this one ton full floater you install a jam nut that you then torque down to jam the nut and then bend over the metal tang as a safety. But never preload that wheel bearing it'll get hot and seize and fail. Passenger cars are the same way except they don't have a jamb nut the just use a cotter pin. On those the factory service manual (not youTube) says you tighten to x ft lbs to make sure the bearings are seated then back off and finger tighten and if the cotter pin doesn't line up in the hole to BACK OFF the nut. So there's zero preload on that bearing and in fact there is play I the bearing. So yes you can and should have a small amount of play instead of preload on an adjustable wheel bearing. I hope this helps others out there as well.
The Military manual (LO 9-2320-289-12) for the M1009's rear differential says it takes 5.4 pints of 80/90 gear oil, or 75 gear oil if you're in a colder climate. If I were you I would do further research for your exact model but this is probable a good guestimate. Thank you for the great question! God bless!
Sorry, could tke it anymore, 4 minutes...into video, looking at the back of his hand vs the actul work, had to bail out... did he edit this: No. Could he had checked his camara alignment, yes, doesn't matter... if you video, allow the viewer to detsil the work...........
![Hunxho - Ball Forever [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nki9ZTF9Uls/mqdefault.jpg)
This is super helpful, those axles are pretty slick
i love how patient and positive you are with all your work. much respect, id be cursing up a storm in some of the stuff you do haha
Well I appreciate your noticing! Years ago I'd have had to edit out the cuss words!! Thanks so much for watching and God bless!!!
i would love to see some new videos , good work!
Thanks for uploading this. I need to replace the seal on my rear axle. It has disc brakes already and was trying to picture in my mind how this all went. :)
Excellent! I built this one back up with disk brakes too. It's on my channel as well
ill have to check it out. when doing the rear seal I have to remove the caliper/rotor etc to get to it right?
solaceofwinter Yep, just remove that hub assembly like in the video and your seal is right there. Clean the spindle where the seal contacts it too. My vid "14 bolt full floater disk brake build" shows how to set your bearing preload and such, then you'll be on your way!
youre the man. :)
Haha, thanks, not sure why my wife laughed hysterically when she saw that.
This is extremely helpful. I'm getting an 84 3/4 ton so this is perfect
Good deal!! More to come!
ILove the fact you have ur kids usi g tools
A 44 front end is not an upgrade over a 10 bolt. They're practically the same.
vgfire629 Opinions are always welcome! Thank you for watching!
Bigger splines if anything
Agreed, great video. What year vehicle is this rear end from?
I honestly couldn't tell you what year it's from!
Exactly what I need to know! Thank you!
I cant get my axle bolts to breck loose are the reverse thread or does the wingnut looking bolt in the center have something to do with it???
JEEP J201981, Good question! There is a gear ratio break that determines which carrier will work with which gears. What gears are you running right now?
Perfect just what I needed thanks !
Very good video man
Thank you I'm glad you enjoyed! God bless!
Appreciate the help! Good video
Jaran Hedstrom thank you for watching and letting me know! God bless!
Hey Geb do you have a picture of your front axel?? I’d like to see a picture of it if you could??
J.J. Clingman I don’t have any handy. Do you have a question I could answer?
pen magnet woul dbe what to use to pull spacer out of hub.. so much easier than trying to chase it out with a punch etc... really...
that's a good video very helpful
I'm glad you liked it! Thank you for watching and commenting, God bless!
Why do you weld the carrier ??
I made a poor man"s spool! God bless!
What year did that come from, i have a 88 3500 and 97 3500 dually
This was a mid 80's rear end. Great question, God bless!
aux1z11...i have a 97 4x4 k3500 dually that's pushing 190,000 miles, is a plow truck and worked hard. the truck is having issues in rear end....when backing up there is a rapid vibration if accelerating in a hurried manner! almost like mini wheel hops on the snow covered pavement....have you encountered this and did you make repairs?
any input would be helpful......thanx
I thought full floats have splines on both ends
Which vehicle
An old Chevy. Sorry I don’t know what year it was. Good question, God bless!
Are the bearings supposed to sit loose in the drum?? Lol
🤣
@@GebBuilt no but serious. Both sides. The ones that are held in with the c clip. I was thinking maybe that's why they are held in with a c clip. The races are definetly loose.
I'm sorry, I'm having a hard time understanding the question.
Clip not being in place may Explain why you got it cheap
HI, SIR I HAVE A QUESTION CAN I USE 4.56 GEARS ON A STOCK GEAR CARRIER , ??? I HAVE A ONE TON GM 14 BOLT THAT ALREADY HAVE A MINI SPOOL I JUST WANT 4.56 GEARS THANKS
Are you Jesse James brother
Daniel Clequin haha not that I know of.
Great video, it helps!
Awesome, thanks for watching!
I need to correct you so you understand and do this critical adjustment correctly as it seems you think you need to preload the tapered wheel bearings like you do for a differential and pinion gear. You do NOT preload wheel bearings, ever. At 5:30 you start to remove the first outer lock nut and you say "that's a little more preload than I like". That outer nut is not controlling your preload it's a jam nut or lock nut. Secondly around 6:40 when you're removing the inner nut you call it the locknut which is incorrect. This inner nut is actually the nut the controls the "preload" on your wheel bearing which you say feels better. Let me clarify this though, you NEVER preload or tighten that nut for final adjustment. Every factory service manual tells you to torque it down to maybe 20 or 30 ft lbs while rotating the wheel simply to make sure the bearings are fully seated. Then they tell you the critical and most important step. They tell you to back off the nut and just go finger tight. No torquing that nut no tightening that nut just go finger tight. That ensures that you don't preload the wheel bearing! On this one ton full floater you install a jam nut that you then torque down to jam the nut and then bend over the metal tang as a safety. But never preload that wheel bearing it'll get hot and seize and fail. Passenger cars are the same way except they don't have a jamb nut the just use a cotter pin. On those the factory service manual (not youTube) says you tighten to x ft lbs to make sure the bearings are seated then back off and finger tighten and if the cotter pin doesn't line up in the hole to BACK OFF the nut. So there's zero preload on that bearing and in fact there is play I the bearing. So yes you can and should have a small amount of play instead of preload on an adjustable wheel bearing. I hope this helps others out there as well.
Very good, thank you.
@@GebBuilt yepper, and nice video, good to see dad and his kids in the shop!
How much fluid does a 14 bolt hold. I'm putting cover with no fill hole and have to fill threw vent
The Military manual (LO 9-2320-289-12) for the M1009's rear differential says it takes 5.4 pints of 80/90 gear oil, or 75 gear oil if you're in a colder climate. If I were you I would do further research for your exact model but this is probable a good guestimate. Thank you for the great question! God bless!
Tahoe Tom your not looking hard enough.
Sorry, could tke it anymore, 4 minutes...into video, looking at the back of his hand vs the actul work, had to bail out... did he edit this: No. Could he had checked his camara alignment, yes, doesn't matter... if you video, allow the viewer to detsil the work...........
NOT A FULL FLOAT AXLE !!!