I am about 3/4 through the build now. I remember that I found no issues with the steering which went together weir and works ok when connected to the servo thank goodness! I did have some problems with the rear differential installation and getting part CP0402 to fit well! I was fairly nervous until I tested the motor and differential out with the RC. Luckily all seemed ok in the end!, I am now just trying to figure out the doors!! Good luck with the build!
Thank you for watching. Ironically I had no issues with the rear axle, it was the front axle that I had the issue with CP402. there was at least 2mm movement and was not engaging with the Diff correctly...I off set it and glued it(i missed the part in the instructions where it asks us to glue this part into the bearing) Like you, I was super nervous until I powered it all up and tested it..Works perfectly..Videos up soon on this. I have just started the Bulkhead detailing and have worked out a way of getting the steering wheel to move in sequence with the main steering. I am thoroughly enjoying this build, however I am not looking forward to the doors! Good luck also with your build and thank you for commenting.
Tony: You are cracking that Land Rover on out and soon I will hire you out as a garage mechanic. Your patience and discussing each step is a great help to use all and I for one appreciate it. Keep it up and can't wait for next week's installment.
Good morning Bill, and thank you. I was so nervous about this stage of the build as I realise how critical this part is to the functionality of the Land rover....but it turned out well...Heavily edited video, as this took me 8 hours to get this finished. Time and patience is the key. Have a great weekend and catch up next week. How do I apply for the job😀
To take the stress from my work I watch you stressing over your build, strange your stress is my relief. Enjoying the builds (all) warts and all. Easy to watch and follow along and looking forward to the next instalment.
Thank you, your comment is very much appreciated. This was probably the most nail chewing part of the build for me, as I know how crucial this is to the final performance of the rover and I was so nervous...but it turned out well in the end. Thank you for supporting and following my channel.
Hi Daniel, thank you for watching and commenting. I am loving this build...more than I thought. Hope you follow the whole project. Have a great weekend.
The differential gear certainly was an awesome invention ,reminded me of building my Tamiya cars thought they were good this is another level . Have seen a couple of youtubers having agg with this Landy 😱😱. Saw an army surplus paint bronze green MK 1 Landy in Edgbaston today 😎😎. See 👀y'all next week sir.
Hi Steve....I go slowly, slowly and even more slowly...but to be honest...Armortek have done their homework on this kit and as long as you follow and also question/double question each and every stage...it is quite straight forward. Sometimes as builders we are too keen to get on and miss the detail. Have a great rest of the weekend mate.
Another great video Tony. I hope your next project is the forthcoming German halftrack towing a 88mm field gun from Armortek. Decisions decisions!!!! Cheers
Hi Warren and thank you. I was gunning for the Leopard, but definitely have a preference for the historical WW2 stuff, so yes...plans changed and discussion started with the AT team on that very thing.
Watching you solve hiccups and assembly, in my mind I also assemble those magnificent parts. Great catch on improving the steering! Tony, no worries: I will be following each video for sure!
Thank you....I absolutely love this build and learning on the job...There is some interesting developments coming up and hope you continue to to support and follow. Have a great weekend.
Hi Tony, I have enjoyed all of your build videos. I don't fast forward through any parts. Most of the time, I will back up the video to re-watch one or more parts. I think these kits are simply amazing. One concern I have is what seems a considerable amount of play forward and back on the connection to the drive shaft. It seems to me that it may cause some uneven wear on the ring gear. Just a thought. Have a great weekend. Cheers!
Good morning Michael and thank you. I also was concerned about this so post filming I took it apart and had a good look at it...Went over the instructions and realised that it calls for this gearing to be glued to the inner part of the bearing to stop it travelling. This is now done and I cover this off on my next video building the rear axle. I should have asked Ben to put some text on this part. Have a great weekend and thank you for your continued amazing support.
@tonys_workshop I'm glad you were able to find the issue. It was really bothering me. 🙃 Please thank Ben for me. His editing and little jokes, "my brain had to reset." lol, that was funny! Are much appreciated. I have an idea about the time involved in putting these videos together.
It bothered me as well...trust me..I want this to operate correctly...I will pass on your comment to Ben and thank you for your kind support of what we are trying to do. Have a great rest of the weekend.
Another great film Tony. Tightening the grub on the diff will improve the off road performance (by giving less chance of a lightly-loaded wheel spinning) but this comes at the cost of easier cornering on a firm surface such as tarmac, where you need the wheels to turn freely at different speeds for cornering - it is a compromise and you may want to set it 'somewhere in the middle'. Great quality components once again - must be a joy to put together.
Thanks Neil. I guess this is something I will have to look at when it starts driving...getting to the diffs is quite straight forward and will see how it performs and adjust accordingly. These are amazing parts and components and yes it is a real privilege to handle and build these kits. Thank you for your continued support mate.
@@tonys_workshop From my Tamiya days. A locked front diff gretly deminishes steering, the vehicle wants to plow straight when you want it to turn.. A compromise is locked rear diff and open (unlocked) front. Your model will have a greater potential of flipping in turns with locked diffd. If I may, I would suggest running both diffs unlocked and with softer suspension (you could replace a couple of steel spring leaves with plastic leaves to retain the thickness of the spring stack) for better axle articulation.
Good video as always. This build looks as if you are working on the real thing! The engineering that goes into these kit are amazing. I to look far ahead in the instructions instructions to see if something i am doing now, will have an effect on some other proceedure down the road. I do have one question though, does the on board receiver need its on battery supply? The motion pack instructions does not seem to have a place to connect power to the receiver. Keep up the good work, thanks
Hi David, I responded to your previous message, but no problem. You do not require a separate power supply. When you plug in the motor (channel 2) and power up using the main battery, this provides the power required to the receiver. This is a great kit to work on and I agree, Armortek have done an amazing job on this. Hope this helps. Best regards...Tony
HI David, not sure why, but I have responded to this a coupe of times but YT seems to have not recorded it. No separate power supplied required. Plug your motor into the channel 2 on your receiver and when you switch the main power switch on the receiver powers up from this. Hope this helps...best regards...Tony.
hi tony, nothing to be nervous about, you can always take it apart again. i am not familiar with the landrover chasis and diff etc so this question may seem odd but....is the chasis and diff of the model the same structure as the real thing. the diffs on the jeeps are rounded not square and the chasis is mostly C beam shaped or p.f.c shaped. i just wonder about the fidelity of the build. i envy you, it all reminds me of the numerous tamiya trucks and trailers i have built. cheers.
Hi Trevor, thanks for watching and commenting. I was super nervous as I realise how important this part of the build is and I did not want to compromise the steering or the diff operation. As you correctly say, you can always go back and this is exactly what I did. I took it apart post filming as I was unhappy with the movement of the smaller gear and meshing on the diff. It turned out that I missed the part on the instructions where it asks us to glue the smaller gear into the inner part of the bearing. I cover this off on the next instalment. All sorted now and a lot happier. In an attempt to answer your question and from what research I have done ahead of starting this build, I would say that I agree with your observation and the axles and diffs are only loosely based on the actual Series 1, but the chassis is fairly accurate in shape if not profile. I am no expert at all on these, but very much enjoying the build. Hope you continue to watch and follow progress on this project. Best regards....Tony
Tony, thanks for the info on powering the receiver. The first time I sent you the was,in a area where reception is almost non existancedand I was not sure it was even sent! I have one more question, are you using the frsky taranis remote on your models? It looks to me that all the remotes come out of the box set up to fly an airplane, not tank. Thanks
Hi David, no problem. Yes I use the FrSky taranis x9d plus 2019 radios. As with most of these advanced radio sets, they are designed to fly helicopters with multiple channels, but setting these up to operate an 8 channel tank is pretty straight forward. Armortek make setting this up pretty straight forward...out of the box plug and play....plug in all the channels into the receiver as per the instructions you receive when ordering the option packs and it works a dream. The only thing is the drive 'out of the box' will operate on a two stick set up. A lot of tankers like this, but I opt to run mine on single stick. This is more complicated, but still doable. Hope this helps.
Thanks Martin. This was probably easier that I made it look, but I was super nervous about the entire assembly as I know how crucial this is the the operation of the finished Land Rover. Glad I loosened up the steering as it works a treat...Video up soon on this.Thanks for your continued support.
Fyi, the axles were milled out of solid bar, not cast. They were fun parts to produce.😊 There were no castings on the series one iirc. For anyone who is unsure on the orientation of the cover, look inside to the slight recess on one side, this is stop the protruding countersunk bolts on the diff from fouling on the side wall of that pocket.
Hi Sean, Wow...I love what you guys do....i bet they were fun.....The more I progress through this build the more respect you have from me....I love this kit and what you guys have done...I also love the fact that you leave it up to the builder to mod as they see fit...You and the team at AT have my complete admiration👏
If it works the same as a full size 4x4 locking the front diff will have quite a detrimental effect on your steering, even off road. I would leave the front diff unlocked.
Hi Steve, just grease in the Diffs at this stage. When I get to the stage of installing the drive shafts I will look at that...I may apply some dry lube. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Looks like the seats may be wrong. They were spade back, shovel back and then square back, with the spade fixed on a U shape bracket and the latter two on drop down. If this is a ‘lights behind the grille’ model then it’s spade back. The base seat cushion looks wrong too. Sides are flat. If you go to the Exmoor trim or CDK parts web sites you will see the difference. The LRSOC series one club also has a detailed spec for model years and change points on their web site.
Hi and thank you for watching and commenting. I have seen the variants on the seats for differing years in the reference books which I have. However, this model is based upon an actual Series 1 which Armortek have a video on their YT Channel. If you search for their channel 'OfficialArmortek' there is a video titled "1950 Series 1 land rover" You will see that this is what they have based this kit on. Hope this helps and also hope that you continue watching this build.
I'm wondering how meany people are slapping there for head when you were talking about the right steering arm and yelling at the screen that you were talking about how the book was wrong and it should be at the front and you're holding the instructions up and they are correct LOL. If you cannot see it in the photo, sit a while and study it then it will jump out at you that what you said was in fact wrong and what you did was as the drawing shows.
Hi...I think you have miss-interpreted the message and for the record...I am not the only builder who has spotted this small error on the instructions...I build these kits in a manner to allow novices like me to try and follow...without pointing out these small issues it could impact the joy of building these amazing kits. Thank you however for watching and commenting.
I think you do a great job of building these kits. I to look way forward in the instructions to see if something I am doing will have an effect on something down the road! This car looks like the real thing! I have a question, when installing the receiver in these kits , does armor tek provide a lead to power the receiver or do you need a seperate power souce? It does not look like there is one in the motion pack instructions. Thanks for your work!
Hi David and thank you. Yes the receiver is powered from the option (motion) pack...no need for a separate power supply. I usually test the servos with a temp battery pack, but once you plug in the motor and power lead it provides the power you need to test. Channel 2 signals the motor and provides the power to the receiver. Hope this helps. Thank you for your continued support.
I am about 3/4 through the build now. I remember that I found no issues with the steering which went together weir and works ok when connected to the servo thank goodness! I did have some problems with the rear differential installation and getting part CP0402 to fit well! I was fairly nervous until I tested the motor and differential out with the RC. Luckily all seemed ok in the end!, I am now just trying to figure out the doors!! Good luck with the build!
Thank you for watching. Ironically I had no issues with the rear axle, it was the front axle that I had the issue with CP402. there was at least 2mm movement and was not engaging with the Diff correctly...I off set it and glued it(i missed the part in the instructions where it asks us to glue this part into the bearing) Like you, I was super nervous until I powered it all up and tested it..Works perfectly..Videos up soon on this. I have just started the Bulkhead detailing and have worked out a way of getting the steering wheel to move in sequence with the main steering. I am thoroughly enjoying this build, however I am not looking forward to the doors! Good luck also with your build and thank you for commenting.
Tony: You are cracking that Land Rover on out and soon I will hire you out as a garage mechanic. Your patience and discussing each step is a great help to use all and I for one appreciate it. Keep it up and can't wait for next week's installment.
Good morning Bill, and thank you. I was so nervous about this stage of the build as I realise how critical this part is to the functionality of the Land rover....but it turned out well...Heavily edited video, as this took me 8 hours to get this finished. Time and patience is the key. Have a great weekend and catch up next week. How do I apply for the job😀
To take the stress from my work I watch you stressing over your build, strange your stress is my relief. Enjoying the builds (all) warts and all. Easy to watch and follow along and looking forward to the next instalment.
Thank you, your comment is very much appreciated. This was probably the most nail chewing part of the build for me, as I know how crucial this is to the final performance of the rover and I was so nervous...but it turned out well in the end. Thank you for supporting and following my channel.
Hello, I see that you have started building the model, good luck and have fun 👊👍
Hi Daniel, thank you for watching and commenting. I am loving this build...more than I thought. Hope you follow the whole project. Have a great weekend.
The differential gear certainly was an awesome invention ,reminded me of building my Tamiya cars thought they were good this is another level . Have seen a couple of youtubers having agg with this Landy 😱😱. Saw an army surplus paint bronze green MK 1 Landy in Edgbaston today 😎😎. See 👀y'all next week sir.
Hi Steve....I go slowly, slowly and even more slowly...but to be honest...Armortek have done their homework on this kit and as long as you follow and also question/double question each and every stage...it is quite straight forward. Sometimes as builders we are too keen to get on and miss the detail. Have a great rest of the weekend mate.
Another great video Tony. I hope your next project is the forthcoming German halftrack towing a 88mm field gun from Armortek. Decisions decisions!!!! Cheers
Hi Warren and thank you. I was gunning for the Leopard, but definitely have a preference for the historical WW2 stuff, so yes...plans changed and discussion started with the AT team on that very thing.
Watching you solve hiccups and assembly, in my mind I also assemble those magnificent parts. Great catch on improving the steering! Tony, no worries: I will be following each video for sure!
Thank you....I absolutely love this build and learning on the job...There is some interesting developments coming up and hope you continue to to support and follow. Have a great weekend.
Hi Tony, I have enjoyed all of your build videos. I don't fast forward through any parts. Most of the time, I will back up the video to re-watch one or more parts. I think these kits are simply amazing. One concern I have is what seems a considerable amount of play forward and back on the connection to the drive shaft. It seems to me that it may cause some uneven wear on the ring gear. Just a thought. Have a great weekend. Cheers!
Good morning Michael and thank you. I also was concerned about this so post filming I took it apart and had a good look at it...Went over the instructions and realised that it calls for this gearing to be glued to the inner part of the bearing to stop it travelling. This is now done and I cover this off on my next video building the rear axle. I should have asked Ben to put some text on this part. Have a great weekend and thank you for your continued amazing support.
@tonys_workshop
I'm glad you were able to find the issue. It was really bothering me. 🙃
Please thank Ben for me. His editing and little jokes, "my brain had to reset." lol, that was funny! Are much appreciated. I have an idea about the time involved in putting these videos together.
It bothered me as well...trust me..I want this to operate correctly...I will pass on your comment to Ben and thank you for your kind support of what we are trying to do. Have a great rest of the weekend.
Another great film Tony. Tightening the grub on the diff will improve the off road performance (by giving less chance of a lightly-loaded wheel spinning) but this comes at the cost of easier cornering on a firm surface such as tarmac, where you need the wheels to turn freely at different speeds for cornering - it is a compromise and you may want to set it 'somewhere in the middle'. Great quality components once again - must be a joy to put together.
Thanks Neil. I guess this is something I will have to look at when it starts driving...getting to the diffs is quite straight forward and will see how it performs and adjust accordingly. These are amazing parts and components and yes it is a real privilege to handle and build these kits. Thank you for your continued support mate.
@@tonys_workshop From my Tamiya days. A locked front diff gretly deminishes steering, the vehicle wants to plow straight when you want it to turn.. A compromise is locked rear diff and open (unlocked) front. Your model will have a greater potential of flipping in turns with locked diffd. If I may, I would suggest running both diffs unlocked and with softer suspension (you could replace a couple of steel spring leaves with plastic leaves to retain the thickness of the spring stack) for better axle articulation.
Thanks Grant, that is a good tip...I will definitely look at doing this. Unlock front diff & lock rear. Thank you, that is very much appreciated.
Using the vise to push the pin through is a great tip.
I hate trying to hammer these in, so it's my way of getting around this by using a controlled amount of pressure. Thank you.
Good video as always. This build looks as if you are working on the real thing! The engineering that goes into these kit are amazing. I to look far ahead in the instructions instructions to see if something i am doing now, will have an effect on some other proceedure down the road. I do have one question though, does the on board receiver need its on battery supply? The motion pack instructions does not seem to have a place to connect power to the receiver. Keep up the good work, thanks
Hi David, I responded to your previous message, but no problem. You do not require a separate power supply. When you plug in the motor (channel 2) and power up using the main battery, this provides the power required to the receiver. This is a great kit to work on and I agree, Armortek have done an amazing job on this. Hope this helps. Best regards...Tony
HI David, not sure why, but I have responded to this a coupe of times but YT seems to have not recorded it. No separate power supplied required. Plug your motor into the channel 2 on your receiver and when you switch the main power switch on the receiver powers up from this. Hope this helps...best regards...Tony.
hi tony, nothing to be nervous about, you can always take it apart again. i am not familiar with the landrover chasis and diff etc so this question may seem odd but....is the chasis and diff of the model the same structure as the real thing. the diffs on the jeeps are rounded not square and the chasis is mostly C beam shaped or p.f.c shaped. i just wonder about the fidelity of the build. i envy you, it all reminds me of the numerous tamiya trucks and trailers i have built. cheers.
Hi Trevor, thanks for watching and commenting. I was super nervous as I realise how important this part of the build is and I did not want to compromise the steering or the diff operation. As you correctly say, you can always go back and this is exactly what I did. I took it apart post filming as I was unhappy with the movement of the smaller gear and meshing on the diff. It turned out that I missed the part on the instructions where it asks us to glue the smaller gear into the inner part of the bearing. I cover this off on the next instalment. All sorted now and a lot happier. In an attempt to answer your question and from what research I have done ahead of starting this build, I would say that I agree with your observation and the axles and diffs are only loosely based on the actual Series 1, but the chassis is fairly accurate in shape if not profile. I am no expert at all on these, but very much enjoying the build. Hope you continue to watch and follow progress on this project. Best regards....Tony
Tony, thanks for the info on powering the receiver. The first time I sent you the was,in a area where reception is almost non existancedand I was not sure it was even sent! I have one more question, are you using the frsky taranis remote on your models? It looks to me that all the remotes come out of the box set up to fly an airplane, not tank. Thanks
Hi David, no problem. Yes I use the FrSky taranis x9d plus 2019 radios. As with most of these advanced radio sets, they are designed to fly helicopters with multiple channels, but setting these up to operate an 8 channel tank is pretty straight forward. Armortek make setting this up pretty straight forward...out of the box plug and play....plug in all the channels into the receiver as per the instructions you receive when ordering the option packs and it works a dream. The only thing is the drive 'out of the box' will operate on a two stick set up. A lot of tankers like this, but I opt to run mine on single stick. This is more complicated, but still doable. Hope this helps.
Nice piece of problem solving on a tricky looking piece - I was saying to myself its looks a bit stiff.
Thanks Martin. This was probably easier that I made it look, but I was super nervous about the entire assembly as I know how crucial this is the the operation of the finished Land Rover. Glad I loosened up the steering as it works a treat...Video up soon on this.Thanks for your continued support.
Fyi, the axles were milled out of solid bar, not cast. They were fun parts to produce.😊
There were no castings on the series one iirc.
For anyone who is unsure on the orientation of the cover, look inside to the slight recess on one side, this is stop the protruding countersunk bolts on the diff from fouling on the side wall of that pocket.
Hi Sean, Wow...I love what you guys do....i bet they were fun.....The more I progress through this build the more respect you have from me....I love this kit and what you guys have done...I also love the fact that you leave it up to the builder to mod as they see fit...You and the team at AT have my complete admiration👏
If it works the same as a full size 4x4 locking the front diff will have quite a detrimental effect on your steering, even off road. I would leave the front diff unlocked.
Hi Andy and thank you. I can get to the front diff still, so may well loosen this off. Thanks for the advice mate.
I’m confused. Video 3 and Tony isn’t finished with the Rover yet?! Clearly the foreman needs to return to get this project on track. ;-)
🤣
No lube on the drive shaft joints?
Hi Steve, just grease in the Diffs at this stage. When I get to the stage of installing the drive shafts I will look at that...I may apply some dry lube. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Looks like the seats may be wrong. They were spade back, shovel back and then square back, with the spade fixed on a U shape bracket and the latter two on drop down. If this is a ‘lights behind the grille’ model then it’s spade back. The base seat cushion looks wrong too. Sides are flat. If you go to the Exmoor trim or CDK parts web sites you will see the difference. The LRSOC series one club also has a detailed spec for model years and change points on their web site.
Hi and thank you for watching and commenting. I have seen the variants on the seats for differing years in the reference books which I have. However, this model is based upon an actual Series 1 which Armortek have a video on their YT Channel. If you search for their channel 'OfficialArmortek' there is a video titled "1950 Series 1 land rover" You will see that this is what they have based this kit on. Hope this helps and also hope that you continue watching this build.
I noticed this as well on my kit but haven’t come up with a solution yet.
I am leaving mine as it fits in with my RAF scheme.
I'm wondering how meany people are slapping there for head when you were talking about the right steering arm and yelling at the screen that you were talking about how the book was wrong and it should be at the front and you're holding the instructions up and they are correct LOL. If you cannot see it in the photo, sit a while and study it then it will jump out at you that what you said was in fact wrong and what you did was as the drawing shows.
Hi...I think you have miss-interpreted the message and for the record...I am not the only builder who has spotted this small error on the instructions...I build these kits in a manner to allow novices like me to try and follow...without pointing out these small issues it could impact the joy of building these amazing kits. Thank you however for watching and commenting.
I think you do a great job of building these kits. I to look way forward in the instructions to see if something I am doing will have an effect on something down the road! This car looks like the real thing! I have a question, when installing the receiver in these kits , does armor tek provide a lead to power the receiver or do you need a seperate power souce? It does not look like there is one in the motion pack instructions. Thanks for your work!
Hi David and thank you. Yes the receiver is powered from the option (motion) pack...no need for a separate power supply. I usually test the servos with a temp battery pack, but once you plug in the motor and power lead it provides the power you need to test. Channel 2 signals the motor and provides the power to the receiver. Hope this helps. Thank you for your continued support.
👁👁
Thank you