your videos on this dropper are the best I have found, I literally was about to give up and buy a new dropper before watching your videos. thanks for sharing your wisdom.
Good supplement to the official service manual. He takes the time to explain the function of various parts. My Reverb B1 is like new again, buttery smooth with zero squish. Thanks for taking the time to post.
This is quality content, thanks for documenting your process! I'm glad I saved myself the headache and just had you rebuild mine a few years back. I'll stick to feeling good about myself for doing a lowers service.
Thank you for the valuable info. I wanted to fix the squish myself, but after extensive research online + your videos, I am convinced that the best solution is to save time and money, ditch my old reverb, stay away from any reverb product in future and just stick with regular air droppers. Had several air droppers with zero issue over the years. Had one reverb, and I have the same issue as I read about all over internet.
Thanks Butter, your video inspired me to do my own rebuild. Technically it only took me 4 times until I got it right but im gonna call it practice. We are good now. Again thanks again for the video and dig your style.
With the help of this video I managed to do the rebuild. Nice explanation and demonstration with all the information you need! I like the pace (even if it's 40 min.) better than the original SRAM TECH vid. And just in case you are wondering what size the brass keys are for a 430 mm RS Reverb Stealth (manufactured 2015): 6. Two thumbs up for Greg!
Thnx a lot for your video. I was afraid to service my A2, but you talked me through it from beginning to end. Especially the pre test was something you don't see in other vids. And yes I did. It works perfectly. Keep your vids coming! Respect. Roland from Belgium 🤪
Great vid, I like the test part in the end without the actuator, that helps a lot. Could use brighter lighting, but so thankful for a clear and concise vid. I botched my first attempt years ago..I missed a crap load of important steps :)
Great video. Easy to follow and well laid out with tips and tricks. Just did a refurb on my reverb following this. Unfortunately when I tested it, it wouldnt return so I tore it back down. In the process I managed to get the IFP stuck are the air valve end. No way to get it out. And if Im honest as much fun as it was following the video the one thing I came to see is actually how overly complicated this seat post is engineering wise. I did a rebuild on my Bike Yoke Revive a few weeks back and 1) its so much simpler 2) cheap to refurb and 3) I actually understand how the Bikeyokes work because they are so simple. I actually couldnt tell you how the reverb works even having torn it apart. Like I said overly complicated which means a lot more work than necessary to maintain. Because they work fine when they do. I just got a new frame and built it up this past week and I had them include a Bikeyoke with the frame because they just work great a zero headaches. Would never buy a reverb again to be honest.
So I resolved my issue. The IFP was right at the valve head and I spent forever trying to pump it out and trying to see if I could get the tube it moves on back into the center hole. Near impossible as its about 20 cm or more with no grip on the end to guide it and impossible to see down a narrow tube with a light while trying to maneuver it. Finally I thought of using the IFP setting tool as a guide. Dropped it in and then tried to set the tube into the center hole of the IFP. It popped in and then a blast of air got the IFP out. For future reference should anyone need it.
It's all about experience; I've only rebuilt one Bike yoke, it's a great product, once I found all the information it was pretty easy. But I've rebuilt hundreds of Reverbs, never had one come back, run them on most of my bikes (and once you go AXS, EVERYTHING else kinda sucks.) But if I'd rebuilt hundreds of Bikeyokes and only one Reverb, I'd probably agree.
@@ButterSuspension but thats kinda my point. I get that for you have rebuilt hundreds of Reverbs its second nature for you. You wouldnt need to build hundreds of BY Revives/Devines. From an engineering perspective you want to accomplish your goals (seat post uppy downy) with minimal complexity. The only time you want to add complexity is to improve performance (durability, strength, speed etc). And as you note when you mention not pulling up on a Reverb, Reverbs arent any more durable and infact maybe less durable than other posts. Complexity adds cost and maintenance scheduling to the mix. I have ridden my Reverb for 3 years, well actually 2 as my current one I bought to replace my first one that ended up being a warranty after one year. Ive had minimal issues with the Reverb but I also used the Wolfstooth lever to eliminate one area of concern. I have also ridden my Bikeyoke for two years. Performance wise I would give it to the BY as it has near zero stiction. Something the Reverb has more of simply because it has more moving parts. Durability wise its a pretty easy win for BY in part because you dont have to "baby" the seatpost and worry about pulling up on it and if some air gets into the oil side its solved by activating the bleed level. This bleed lever is fantastic especially if you fly with your bike or dont have quick access to a bike shop eg on a bike holiday/trip. I think the proof is in the pudding as such considering RS Reverb is essentially the same design as the original. It was the first to market or one of, and because they have the OEM market there is little incentive for them to redesign.
GREAT video - a ton of help! Have 3 reverbs that need this kind of love! (Will start with one of the two on the bench and take the time to get it right the first time) Prefer wrenching my own gear that takes me out on long epic trail rides. Thanks again - keep these videos coming - subscribed!
@@bazzab1000 not sure, never tried that. But, pretty sure that wouldn't work, since the whole post is designed around the amount of drop, so the inner shaft, upper post and inner IFP tube are all based on that size.
Dude. Solid video. You’ve obviously have done a few. 😂 I’ve been out of the bike shop game for a few years and only have worked on Command mechanical posts. Looking forward to diving into my Verb thanks to your vid. Now where did I place those old chopsticks to use for cleaning inside dropper posts?
Brilliant! I'd like to request two more videos please for 1: Fox Transfer 2: BikeYoke Revive (don't have a Divine but I guess it's similar to the Revive) The Reverb's teardown and rebuild looks easier than I thought, and since I have quite a few of these, I'd have to test this method. Thanks Greg, you're the best!
Definitely gonna do a Transfer soon, if only to show the tool list and price 😬. They really aren't very home-mechanic friendly at all. I've only had two or three Bike Yokes come through the shop, I'll see if I can swing it. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for doing this vid i have done a few maybe 4 in total an i like the pre test trick , one tip for you is dont be like me a a bike mech for 20 years without wearing nitrile gloves now have to live with chemical poisioning for ever not good that grease is super toxic and absorbs into your body in seconds thru your skin its a pain changing gloves but not as bad as the poisioning i,m kinda lucky i know a guy who worked at sram who got a brain tumor from this stuff .
I would've opened with how wrong people are! I would have mentioned, even though it's evident in the video, that the post should be extended before starting. I used a piece of heatshrink around a syringe with a zip tie as depth gauge in a pinch. Excellent video and great presentation though. Hopefully it doesn't stop my circle of friends coming to me for their rebuilds after seeing this video!
Thanks! I've learned over the years that most people don't react well to being told they're wrong, ha ha. I'd prefer to present good information and let folks change their own minds.
The video that keeps on giving! When the dreaded squish happens ... For a B1, what do you think about the idea of just removing the poppet valve and simply adding fluid back to the correct level. Then putting the post back together. (Of course assuming one feels confident that the rest of the internal parts etc are actually all good.) I saw it done on an external hose, push button activation (non-stealth) mondel. Is it possible on a B1 stealth? Thank you!
Thank you for this video. Step by step videos with little nuggets are always great. Late to the party here, but i am looking into doing a C1 rebuild. One part i am caught up on is the set depth. Looking through the rockshox manual I can not find a chart with the required depth. I also can not find a vide with of a C1 rebuild. Is the C1 different than previous models in regards to the rebuild? Thanks.
Great Video and completed the rebuild. Question, after putting 250psi air in the post, I tested the operation by putting in a 2mm hex key into the bottom and pressing down to activated the poppet valve. I needed a LOT of force to push the poppet valve in. What would cause such the excessive force???? I think the remote could never create such a force to move the poppet.
Great question! Even though the poppet is pressing against oil, that oil is also being pressurized by...that 250psi! Also, the lever gives an advantage when pushing that oil against the poppet, but pushing directly on it with a 2mm has less "leverage", zero actually.
I read your reply and understand the remote leverage. In your experience, is there a huge amout of pressure required using a 2mm rod against the poppet valve. I ask because after attaching the remote it could not move the poppet which raises/drops the post.@@ButterSuspension
Very helpful video, nice to see step by step the magic going on inside those posts. I've never had a saggy post but have an issue with a small air leak somewhere because after I bleed I get about a weeks worth of riding before the hose fills with air again and it needs bleeding again. Tried putting the hose and connectamajig under water and can't see any bubbles to suggest a leak. Remote is also brand new 1x upgrade and no leak from there. Any suggestions? Seal gone in the post itself maybe??
This was a big issue with SRAM brakes back in the day. The inner liner of the hose would get tiny tears from the barbs being installed without lube. Air would very slowly get in, but oil wouldn't leak so it seem like a mystery. (Hence why dunking the hose underwater wouldn't show anything; the bubbles were going inside) I'd check the barb fitting at the lever, make sure the hose has a flush 90 degree cut and then use slick honey on the barb threads.
The height is just how much drop the post has (100, 125, 150, etc). I would visit the Rockshox tech pages, all the IFP heights and oil heights are listed there. I have them printed on one sheet, but I'm not at the shop right now...
Great video!! I may have missed something so Quick question...I have reverb/stealth b1 and I am using the sm-2013-2018-reverb-stealth-a2-b1 guide. On p.31, inner shaft assembly it shows that two seal need to be replaced on the anodized head; an inner and an outer. I didn't see you talk about an inner seal, and in fact, the exploded view does not even show the inner seal. Also the rebuild kit does not come with one. I'm not totally sure what the seal does other than maybe keeping the poppet centered. Am I missing something? Thanks!
Will you be doing C1 version or is it about the same? See another poster was asking about poppet height. Any other things to be wary of? FANTASTIC A2/B1 rebuild, truly helpfull!!
C1 is "technically" the same but with some very different internal parts; most of it requires a different seal kit, different oil and different oil heights.
@@ButterSuspension Many thanks for clarifying Greg - makes sense! Off to the shop to begin! (User serviceable product, I'm in! Thank you for these great videos.)
Hi your videos inspired me to service my own reverb, I have a2 model LT 380/125, I did everything step by step and followed the instructions and in the end everything works except that I only have 50 percent travel, the seat only goes down halfway obviously i did something wrong but i don't know what? Do you know in which part I made a mistake?
This video is phenomenal. Thank you so much for making it. I had squish. Spent about 3 hours following this video, and now the squish is GONE, rock solid! Bought the 400 hour service kit. worth it. For a 150mm Reverb Stealth B1, the oil depth is 191mm, if anyone is wondering. One thing that may be helpful to add as commentary in the video: When the inner shaft is sunk into the oil, it needs to remain fully extended in through the inner seal head / out of the Upper Post. I accidentally bumped it down, and it squirted oil out and then I had to redo several steps. And one question - my post has the connectamajig thing - I couldn't get the trick you showed at the end to work - where you depressed something with small allen key to test the post. I didn't want to force anything. Is there a different trick with the connectamajig?
Great video, thanks for posting this. I don't have quite the right tools and may have bent the what you referred to as the "lower portion" after taking out the poppet. I can't get that part threaded back on to the inner tube, do you know if I can replace just that one part?
I'll need some clear pictures of the part you need, showing the threaded inner bit as well as the shaft it attaches to. A picture of the upper main tub, just below the seat post guts helps too. greg.mackenzie@gmail.com
Yes, I use Reverb fluid on all of them except for the newest models that call for the Maxima Syrene. Very first gen models and instructions called for 2.5 before they came out with "Reverb fluid" but I haven't used 2.5 in about 8 years...
@@ButterSuspension awesome thanks for the reply. I have an ASX model and already ordered some Maxima, been a bit delayed in the post. Wondering if anything else would work in a pinch. Guess I’ll wait.
This a great video. Much easier to follow then the SRAM instructions. Thank you so much for posting it. I do have one question. I have a relatively new Stealth B1 post with only about 20 rides on it that developed a a squish so followed all of your rebuild instructions but only replaced the IFP seal with a blue one (same as original). No more squish but the post sticks slightly about 1/2 up. If I pull slightly it passes the sticky spot. Any suggestions on what I did wrong or forgot to lube?
First thing I would check is your seat post binder torque; make sure you have friction paste between the frame and the post and then loosen the bolt a tiny bit. If the sticking goes away and the post doesn't slip, you're good.
@@ButterSuspension Thank you so much. That fixed the problem. One last question. Do you know why the fluid level table for B1 does not show seat post height / travel like for A1.
I've got an A2 and ordered the rebuild/200hr kit. I've got a little play in the saddle now. Is that a sure sign I need new brass keys as well (which my 200hr kit didn't included)? Also, it feels like a tiny bit of play between the upper post and post head, is that something that I can tighten? If I do the full rebuild, can I pretty quickly come back later to swap the keys with new ones, or will that take a full fluid replacement again then too?
Hey, like your video's! Question for the Sag fix of a Reverb C1, do you also set the oil level with the syringe and after that put the poppet valve like in your video? In the tech doc of Rock Shox they install the poppet valve in the housing and leave it 4mm out, then they install the compleet poppet valve housing into the oil filled inner IFP tube. They don't set the oil level with a syringe... Done that but after installing and bleding the remote, the return of the dropper is not good... thx fot your advice!
No need for a syringe/fill after installing the poppet. When you say the return is "not good" do you mean it doesn't work or it's slow? Usually a slow return is either not enough air pressure or the hose needs another bleed.
@@ButterSuspension I disconnected the hose and when I engage the poppet valve with an allen key, the poppet valve itself is not returning smothly. it feels like it is returning in 2 times. I think I should try to rebuilt the post again... Maybe I put the poppet valve to deep in the poppet shaft (less then 4mm)
It's not smooth mechanically when you use an Allen wrench but it should be smooth once the hose is bled. It's a hydraulic system so it's expecting hydraulic pressure, not mechanical pressure.
Yes. There are basically two "chambers" inside this post, separated by an internal floating piston. The air chamber is what pushes the post up and the oil chamber is what keeps it in position when the valve is closed. If air gets past the IFP, you now have bubbles in the oil that can be compressed, hence the squish. The only way to truly remove the bubbles is a full rebuild.
that is some fork collection ya got there fella! - I have a Reverb question>> is it possible to remove/unscrew the post head from the upper assembly - I have an IFP pressed right up against the Vent Valve on a C1 post. when i Google/shop >Upper assembly< 1 find pics of it in 2 pieces ready to screw together not sure if it want to come undone thou - and not sure if it's a L or R thread???
Thanks! There will be a museum at some point. Yes, you "can" unthread the head from the upper post, but you would need to make some tooling. But there's an easier solution. Assuming you haven't removed the IFP tube yet, you can thread the inner seal head back onto the bottom of the upper tube. Remove the schrader core and blast some compressed air into the valve. The IFP should pop to the bottom of the upper tube.
@@ButterSuspension cheers for the reply.. but no dice.. tube came out before i realised where the IFP was.. I'd already seen you vid, and went for putting the tube back in - i was really nice to it, but it didn't care.. and now the IFP is sitting on the bit the IFP tube clicks into. - then came trying to pick it out.. and now i'm chatting to you sir!
Ahh, crap. Yeah, that's a tough spot now. The head and the upper post are on REALLY TIGHT, and with red loctite. And there's an o-ring inside that isn't part of any kit, and it's usually destroyed if you go this route.
@@ButterSuspension Aww crap is right I'm in the Uk, and the post was from Germany just before Brexit only 5 months old.. would've been a send back if I hadn't of pulled it apart. now i'm stuck with it trying to find a way of not throwing £350 at it.
Followup question, is the 'new' C1 grey IFP backward compatible with the A2 and B1 posts, and if yes, does it make sense to just change out the older, less reliable black or blue IFPs to this one on the first major service?
Hey master guru of squish, my reverb has gotten harder and harder to compress over time, rebound is also slow af, especially in the cold to the point the post gets stuck. Otherwise non of the dreaded squish. Do you think a full rebuild is needed or a line bleed would be sufficient? Maybe check the air pressure first? The post had been bled not too long ago, maybe no more than 100h of riding in the last 6 months. Thanks in advance!
The slow up and down is probably air in the line. Best way to test it is to either speed up or slow down the adjuster at the lever; if it's already set at full fast and you unscrew it, it should slow down or not even move. If it's at full slow and you screw the adjuster in, it should speed up.
This is next level!!! Butter Suspension ;quick question for you that I have yet to answer through my research. I"m losing air pressure over time (daily), but when I reset my pressure to 250 psi, there is absolutely no squish at all. Would this require a full rebuild in your opinion or is there another work around ?
Losing air is either something wrong with the air valve, or a failed seal/sealing surface internally. The quick check is to pump up the post to 250, then spray soapy water on the valve. If you get any bubbles, replace the core or the valve o-ring. No bubbles there? Probably needs a rebuild.
@@ButterSuspension I have a similar problem and have to replace the air valve. What tool do you use to get the current one off and install the new one. Nothing seems to fit or grip properly.
SRAM has moved over to recommending the Dynamic grease I think because it holds up longer over time and has better shear properties, but I'm betting that's splitting hairs...if you have a tub of Sram Butter (Slickoleum, or Slick Honey) I wouldn't go buy the green stuff until you run out of the other.
Is an IFP installation depth a great secret? I see the markup on IFP installation tool, but these depth are never mentioned by anyone. What should I do without this tool?
Not at all, the depths are available in the Rockshox service manuals. The IFP tool is just easy to use with some of the depths pre-marked. The tool is relatively cheap, like $9 online.
Great vid! Question though, could you simply bleed the air out by removing the poppet valve and let it sit for a bit till the air has been released? @ 8:00 mark?
No, unfortunately the air is inside the upper post; basically a tube inside a tube. The poppet is just the valve at the bottom that allows oil to move.
@@ButterSuspension thx for the quick reply, so technically speaking there are THREE independent oil system at work here. Remote side, poppet valve (measured level of oil), and the seat post side (overfill)... Just trying to grasp the engineering behind the post. =)
great video! can you tell me the measurement of your scribed line for the b1 on your IFP tool. Also is there a formula for the oil ht tool settings for different extensions? Thx
@@ButterSuspension Thanks for getting back to me. Can you also let me know what the setting measurement is for taking fluid out of the inner tube for a 440 mm dropper Thx
@@ButterSuspension I'm stuck on the 440mm post oil height setting too. The Rockshox service directions are significantly different from yours and I cannot find any table or other depth settings using the method shown in you vid.
@@maidaji www.servicearchive.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen.0000000005341_sm_2013-2018_reverb_stealth_a2_b1_english_rev_c.pdf Scroll down to the chart. You'll need to determine if you have a B1 reverb stealth; i'm assuming if you have a 440, that means you have a 150mm drop, so 191mm oil height.
Great tutorial, thanks! I'm going to rebuild my A2 Reverb and I have already watched your video 3 times and still am not sure if I can do it myself. I believe I can work around the luck of the IFP height tool but here comes the other obstacle. A specific amount of hydraulic fluid must be removed from the inner shaft before the poppet valve is installed. Do you think it is wise to start the job without this special Oil Level Adjuster? Is it possible to push inside the inner shaft for example a plastic straw and draw excess fluid? Of course I would follow the manual chart lengths. I would really like to do the rebuild myself as I'm genuine grease monkey but I do not want to ruin my seat post...
The tools aren't that expensive in my opinion, and they save you a ton of time in having to source options, make sure they fit, make sure they don't scratch anything... I wouldn't want to do the job without the right tools.
Great video. Im hoping i dont need it so hoping you can answer this pls. Im here as when doing a bleed service as was slow i used a 10mm socket instead of 9mm on the air inlet!!! Instead of removing the air cap i removed the valve. It popped as the air released. I reinserted it and did the bleed. Bleed was fine but i seem to have some play movement in the shaft now. Back forwards. Not up down. Can this be explained by what i did. Does removed the valve under pressure create damage internally. Thanks a lot!
Hey Mark- I don't think removing the valve did anything except to release the air pressure. There has to be some fire/aft movement (in addition to some twisting movement) otherwise the post wouldn't move up and down.
Hi You know how to get rid of the squeaking ifp seal, after folding the seatpost it makes a squeak as if rubber is rubbing dry, this symptom is blue after using the ifp seal. After putting the old ifp into the o-ring, there is no problem Any suggestion what to do about it?
@@ButterSuspension Hi. Thanks for the answer with blue, the problem is that it sometimes makes the seatpost work very hard, which causes ifp to shift and reverb has a sag. I have to check it gray
My Reverb developed a lot of squish, like almost half the travel is used up by squish. Should it be rebuilt or just thrown out, what parts should I replace if I rebuild it, basically what should I do?
Hey Nate- the more squish there is, that just means there's more air in the oil; it's just a bigger spring, if you will. I always replace all the "sealing/moving" parts, anything that holds air or oil. Also, be extra careful after a rebuild to never lift the seat when the post is down; this will create a vacuum in the system that pulls air into the oil. The more you pull up on it, the more air moves to the oil side, the more tho post will squish.
@@ButterSuspension Ok, thank you. I will get it rebuilt. There’s very helpful information, I probably lifted the bike by the seat quite a bit once the first little bit of play started which probably just made it worse.
Hi Greg! Hate to ask another free question - might you know if the new red poppet cover can be used in the A2/B1 models? if so, are they (and perhaps other parts needed to swap) available for purchase? (If you sell them I'm in!) Recall a post where a B1 was sent in for warranty and it returned with the new red cover. Love to rebuild and change droppers without changing the cable fitting on the dropper end. Thanks! Dave - San Diego
Hey Dave- I'm pretty so the red cover is a different thread pitch, so I don't think it's swappable between those generations. Also, Rockshox doesn't sell many of the parts as replacements.... I'm wondering if that B1 post sent in was replaced with a newer C1 generation with the red cover.
Great video dude! I like it! Do you have a video for the reverb c1? Also noticed that the o-ring in the main piston was located not in between the white plastic rings, is it working better like that? thanks for your videos. I suscribe and like it. Cheers!!!
Great video! Tons of useful information. What are the dimensions of the IFP depth setter? Seems like it could be sourced/crafted without paying the crazy Rockshox markup.
Greg, thanks for the great video. I'm just about to start a rebuild on my B1 and had a question. You mentioned an oring at the base of the IFP tube where it seats on some feature. I don't think you showed replacing it in the video. Do that ever get replaced? Is there a reason not to replace it? How would you get to it? Maybe remove the schraeder? Is it on the same fitting? Does it come in the rebuild kit? Again, great video! Really appreciate it!
So technically, you shouldn't ever need to replace that. It's down inside the upper tube, it's a static o-ring so it never gets any wear. The only way to replace it is to remove the seatpost head from the upper tube, but that's super difficult to do since you'd need to make tools for a job that will (almost) never come up.
@@ButterSuspension Is there an easy way to tighten the seatpost head to the upper tube? Mine rotated after a crash. I tightened it by rotating it back, but it will rotate now if it gets bumped a bit hard. I'm assuming the initial crash broke whatever thread bond was originally used??
@@rutsnext easy, yes. Correct? No. It takes a ton of torque to loosen those (obviously) and there aren't really official tools to fix it. It wants to be taken apart, threads cleaned, red loctited and re-torqued. I've done it a few times as part of a complete rebuild.
@@ButterSuspension Got it. It doesn't need a full rebuild at this point, but I was hoping I'd be able to tighten the seatpost head while I have it apart for a 200 hour service. So I think I'll see if its manageable until it needs a full rebuild. Any advice on how to tighten it "as best as possible" without tearing it right down and red loctiting? I've been hesitant to torque it too hard rotating the seat against the brass keys in their slots as resistance when its fully assembled. That feels like it could do more damage than good. Am I better to try secure the upper post in a shaft clamp? That way seems like it would take a lot of vise pressure on the upper post to get much resistance against threading the seatpost head tighter. Any thoughts would be appreciated. And great video. I'm a new subscriber for sure.
@@rutsnext honestly, if you're not gonna pull it completely apart to re-loctite it, i'd just twist it back straight with the saddle while mounted in the bike. The lower and upper posts are super strong, and the brass keys are so completely captured I doubt you're gonna hurt anything.
Same parts and oil for the most part but the whole system is flipped internally. So there's a very different set of directions for the non-stealth models.
Right now, I don't get any kits, lol. I just used my last bits from a tackle box that SRAM sells. Everything is out of stock, everywhere and probably will be until March. Makes me nervous! I've been able to find some stuff online. One thing I will say about Reverbs, they can still be rebuilt without replacing every single "wear item" and they can still work well. It's when they've been abused for many years and the bushings or keys are cooked, it's game over until parts are available again.
@@ButterSuspension Thank you, I was referring to the regular x/Hours clean, oil change and so on. The process is here: trek.scene7.com/is/content/TrekBicycleProducts/Asset%20Library/documents/Manuals/pdf/TK19_2020_Supercaliber_Service_Manual_USEN_WEB.pdf but the document is not so good and does not show few components.
I was wondering why you needed to replace the silver part, you stated it was junk. Just curious what was wrong with it. I rebuilt several reverbs and never replaced that part. I did have an issue with my 1X lever bleed or something not working like it should, Did the back and forth bleed lever in and out during bleeding. but when I go to push the lever it barely feels like it opens the poppet fully, and I have to really push the seat down with force to get it to go down. Its done this since day one and the slow to fast screw was set to max slow. Just curious why is this bleed not working as it should. Any thoughts.
@@ButterSuspension I just disassembled my post and once again the inner seal head oring was pooched out of the groove. I am very careful when installing the inner seal head when the oring gets inserted into the bore. I have been buying the full rebuild kit as I only do a few reverbs for myself and friends, mine has been the only one giving me this issue. When the oring gets pooched a tiny bit of course oil blows out and then the alum shaft seal bushing gets tiny scratches on it from the pooched oring pushing it to one side. Now I'm wondering after watching your video you mentioned the two o rings for the outer part of the seal head hard and soft and different dia. its seems to me the pre built inner seal head assy has a very thin o ring for the o ring slot maybe causing the o ring to pooch out. What diameter is the O ring that seals the head to the shaft. I want to confirm what is on there is correct or not. Thanks for the reply, and keep up the great video's. FYI my son is a Freshman at Udub plays baseball for them. We will be travelling up there when the season starts up.
Hello again! Are the collars (top caps) of B1 models meant to be ‘rebuilt’? I can’t find info on how to do it if so. The internal parts of the collar seem very tough to remove and new internals seem impossible to re-fit back into the collar.
Kind of, but they don't offer a how to on any of the current tech docs since the newest seal kits also don't have those parts in them. Rockshox used to have almost every seal in the full rebuild kits but they moved away from that. Now they just recommend replacing the upper seal head as an assembly.
Awesome video! Great tips! I have a question regarding the Reverb Oil. Are there any substitutes for this oil? I’ve read some non-reliable forum thread that says this is 2,5wt fork oil? Do you have any comment on this matter? The reason I’m asking is that... I live in Serbia (non EU country) and there is no regular supply of RS parts and fastest delivery from Germany will take around 2 weeks minimum. I have some Motorex 2,5wt racing fork oil and was thinking to give it a try. Any thoughts on this matter? Really appreciate the answer. Thank you 🤕☺️
Hey Janko- the original oil used in the first gen Reverb was 2.5wt. But it was Rockshox branded 2.5, so I don't know how it compares to other brands 2.5...
Really the weight is different from manufacturer to manufacturer. So one 2.5 isnt the same as another. Its probably better to reference the viscosity index.
Great video.... I had a service on my dropper and the post will not go down all the way, can you help in any way for a cure for this issue I have, any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Hard to say without seeing it, but I'd guess there's too much oil or the internal floating piston wasn't set properly. If a shop serviced your post and it doesn't work correctly, I'd ask them to make it right.
@@ButterSuspension hi again, just been to the bike shop and they said they pulled it apart twice an the problem he encountered is that the ifp is getting back pressure and will not sit in the correct position. I bought the dropper off ebay an think it may be a mix n match post! So I'm cutting my losses an they are fitting a brand X for me as we speak. Thanks for all your help, mark
I should have time the first week of the year. I'm back in the shop on the 2nd, through Thursday 10-4. But please send me an email first so I can get you on the calendar. Greg@buttersuspension.com
Look at page 20 of this manual. I had the same issue. The u part should face away from the wench flats. www.servicearchive.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen.0000000004211_rev_b_2014_reverb_stealth_sm.pdf
Are you talking about the 11mm hex? I've seen a ton of those smashed from too much torque, the way I've been doing it I've never had an issue. But if you don't have clamps, makes sense.
I hate to be ‘that guy’ because I found this video super useful but at 39mins when you tested the post and push down it does look like it squishes down a fraction. It also pops up a fraction when you push the poppet with your Allen tool. Is there a simple explanation, was something missed?
The B1 posts have about 1mm of mechanical play; as the poppet head needs to have some clearance for the circlip. That or your video resolution is INCREDIBLE.
Okay. Thanks for the reply and video. I really like the Reverb post. I had too many cable operated posts have the actuator cable freeze during cold winter rides. Leaves you with a post stuck up, down, or permanently activated. Though I’m not sure I would do a full service DIY it would be really cool to see a video where you perform the interim minor service.
do not use a 2.5mm hex to activate the poppet! if it slips it will get stuck which is exactly what happened to me twice with both a 2.5mm and then a 3mm after the first slipped attempt!! found a 4mm did the trick, god knows what damage has happened as a result of this bad info
For this generation post, the hose fitting will only take a 2.5mm "tool". Older posts with the previous generation fitting definitely work best with a 4mm Allen.
![Gunna - HIM ALL ALONG [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HiCxoDeo0hc/mqdefault.jpg)
Absolutely Brilliant! Don’t ever remove this video form RUclips. The dark art of reverb is laid bare! THANKS SOOO MUCH!
your videos on this dropper are the best I have found, I literally was about to give up and buy a new dropper before watching your videos. thanks for sharing your wisdom.
Thank you! So happy this helps!
Good supplement to the official service manual. He takes the time to explain the function of various parts. My Reverb B1 is like new again, buttery smooth with zero squish. Thanks for taking the time to post.
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
Really I love the way you get out the IFP. I tried a few minutes ago and it works perfectly. Thank you so much for share your knowledge.
Great video. Mine failed after 6mo of easy riding. Worst shock ever, my rebuild included a oneup v3. Best rebuild ever.
Replacement is one way to service something!
keep the videos coming man, your doing great work!
Thanks!
This is quality content, thanks for documenting your process! I'm glad I saved myself the headache and just had you rebuild mine a few years back. I'll stick to feeling good about myself for doing a lowers service.
Thank you for the valuable info. I wanted to fix the squish myself, but after extensive research online + your videos, I am convinced that the best solution is to save time and money, ditch my old reverb, stay away from any reverb product in future and just stick with regular air droppers. Had several air droppers with zero issue over the years. Had one reverb, and I have the same issue as I read about all over internet.
Good stuff right there, took some patience but made it work! Thanks!
Thanks Butter, your video inspired me to do my own rebuild. Technically it only took me 4 times until I got it right but im gonna call it practice. We are good now. Again thanks again for the video and dig your style.
Best reverb rebuild vid ever. Now im not afraid of this anymore.
Thank you Butter :P
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
With the help of this video I managed to do the rebuild. Nice explanation and demonstration with all the information you need! I like the pace (even if it's 40 min.) better than the original SRAM TECH vid. And just in case you are wondering what size the brass keys are for a 430 mm RS Reverb Stealth (manufactured 2015): 6.
Two thumbs up for Greg!
Thnx a lot for your video. I was afraid to service my A2, but you talked me through it from beginning to end. Especially the pre test was something you don't see in other vids. And yes I did.
It works perfectly.
Keep your vids coming!
Respect.
Roland from Belgium 🤪
Great video! Thanks for sharing, tips with allen key and how to tested.
Quality very comprehensive guide thanks for sharing.
dude ! I love your video ! you're very good 👍 I'll use that one for my work when I have the next Reverb to service ! excellent work right here
Thank you! Happy to help!
Great vid, I like the test part in the end without the actuator, that helps a lot. Could use brighter lighting, but so thankful for a clear and concise vid. I botched my first attempt years ago..I missed a crap load of important steps :)
Yeah, lights are on the list!
Great video man. Makes me want to get a sink and vice for my garage now haha
Great video.
Easy to follow and well laid out with tips and tricks.
Just did a refurb on my reverb following this. Unfortunately when I tested it, it wouldnt return so I tore it back down. In the process I managed to get the IFP stuck are the air valve end.
No way to get it out.
And if Im honest as much fun as it was following the video the one thing I came to see is actually how overly complicated this seat post is engineering wise.
I did a rebuild on my Bike Yoke Revive a few weeks back and 1) its so much simpler 2) cheap to refurb and 3) I actually understand how the Bikeyokes work because they are so simple.
I actually couldnt tell you how the reverb works even having torn it apart.
Like I said overly complicated which means a lot more work than necessary to maintain. Because they work fine when they do.
I just got a new frame and built it up this past week and I had them include a Bikeyoke with the frame because they just work great a zero headaches.
Would never buy a reverb again to be honest.
So I resolved my issue.
The IFP was right at the valve head and I spent forever trying to pump it out and trying to see if I could get the tube it moves on back into the center hole.
Near impossible as its about 20 cm or more with no grip on the end to guide it and impossible to see down a narrow tube with a light while trying to maneuver it.
Finally I thought of using the IFP setting tool as a guide. Dropped it in and then tried to set the tube into the center hole of the IFP. It popped in and then a blast of air got the IFP out.
For future reference should anyone need it.
It's all about experience; I've only rebuilt one Bike yoke, it's a great product, once I found all the information it was pretty easy. But I've rebuilt hundreds of Reverbs, never had one come back, run them on most of my bikes (and once you go AXS, EVERYTHING else kinda sucks.) But if I'd rebuilt hundreds of Bikeyokes and only one Reverb, I'd probably agree.
@@ButterSuspension but thats kinda my point. I get that for you have rebuilt hundreds of Reverbs its second nature for you. You wouldnt need to build hundreds of BY Revives/Devines.
From an engineering perspective you want to accomplish your goals (seat post uppy downy) with minimal complexity.
The only time you want to add complexity is to improve performance (durability, strength, speed etc).
And as you note when you mention not pulling up on a Reverb, Reverbs arent any more durable and infact maybe less durable than other posts.
Complexity adds cost and maintenance scheduling to the mix.
I have ridden my Reverb for 3 years, well actually 2 as my current one I bought to replace my first one that ended up being a warranty after one year. Ive had minimal issues with the Reverb but I also used the Wolfstooth lever to eliminate one area of concern.
I have also ridden my Bikeyoke for two years. Performance wise I would give it to the BY as it has near zero stiction. Something the Reverb has more of simply because it has more moving parts.
Durability wise its a pretty easy win for BY in part because you dont have to "baby" the seatpost and worry about pulling up on it and if some air gets into the oil side its solved by activating the bleed level.
This bleed lever is fantastic especially if you fly with your bike or dont have quick access to a bike shop eg on a bike holiday/trip.
I think the proof is in the pudding as such considering RS Reverb is essentially the same design as the original. It was the first to market or one of, and because they have the OEM market there is little incentive for them to redesign.
By far the best video on here of how to tackle a Reverb strip down and rebuild. helped me no end.. Subscribed.. Cheers!
GREAT video - a ton of help!
Have 3 reverbs that need this kind of love! (Will start with one of the two on the bench and take the time to get it right the first time) Prefer wrenching my own gear that takes me out on long epic trail rides. Thanks again - keep these videos coming - subscribed!
Here in the U.K., didn’t defuse the bomb and the bomb went off in the front room... 😂😂😂 Your videos are brilliantly informative, thanks.
Yikes! Happens to everyone, I seem to forget at least once a year! Keeps my glasses well lubed.
Sorry to bother you but is it feasible to swap my lower tube out from a 390mm to a 380mm tube without any trouble regarding internals? Thanks.
@@bazzab1000 not sure, never tried that. But, pretty sure that wouldn't work, since the whole post is designed around the amount of drop, so the inner shaft, upper post and inner IFP tube are all based on that size.
Butter Suspension okay, thanks for the advice and peace out. 😀 ✌️
Dude. Solid video. You’ve obviously have done a few. 😂 I’ve been out of the bike shop game for a few years and only have worked on Command mechanical posts. Looking forward to diving into my Verb thanks to your vid. Now where did I place those old chopsticks to use for cleaning inside dropper posts?
Top video, thanks man really helpful. I'm now sorted when it comes to putting my B1 back together :-)
That is quite the vise!
Check out the new one!
instagram.com/p/CgMxM3-rx_d/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Really good video dude - thanks for sharing. 10/10 👌🏻👊🏼
Simply the best tutorial!!! thank you!
Thank you! Happy to help!
Awesome video, i wonder if you could do a video showing the different versions of this dropper and the differences. a/b/c ?
Brilliant! I'd like to request two more videos please for
1: Fox Transfer
2: BikeYoke Revive (don't have a Divine but I guess it's similar to the Revive)
The Reverb's teardown and rebuild looks easier than I thought, and since I have quite a few of these, I'd have to test this method. Thanks Greg, you're the best!
Definitely gonna do a Transfer soon, if only to show the tool list and price 😬. They really aren't very home-mechanic friendly at all.
I've only had two or three Bike Yokes come through the shop, I'll see if I can swing it. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for doing this vid i have done a few maybe 4 in total an i like the pre test trick , one tip for you is dont be like me a a bike mech for 20 years without wearing nitrile gloves now have to live with chemical poisioning for ever not good that grease is super toxic and absorbs into your body in seconds thru your skin its a pain changing gloves but not as bad as the poisioning i,m kinda lucky i know a guy who worked at sram who got a brain tumor from this stuff .
I would've opened with how wrong people are!
I would have mentioned, even though it's evident in the video, that the post should be extended before starting. I used a piece of heatshrink around a syringe with a zip tie as depth gauge in a pinch.
Excellent video and great presentation though. Hopefully it doesn't stop my circle of friends coming to me for their rebuilds after seeing this video!
Thanks!
I've learned over the years that most people don't react well to being told they're wrong, ha ha. I'd prefer to present good information and let folks change their own minds.
Love your stuff man! Please keep it up!
The video that keeps on giving! When the dreaded squish happens ... For a B1, what do you think about the idea of just removing the poppet valve and simply adding fluid back to the correct level. Then putting the post back together. (Of course assuming one feels confident that the rest of the internal parts etc are actually all good.) I saw it done on an external hose, push button activation (non-stealth) mondel. Is it possible on a B1 stealth? Thank you!
Unfortunately, the squish can be bubbles on the inside of the oil chamber and those won't necessarily be right at the poppet.
Thank You! this video saved my seat post!
Awesome. Great walkthru. How about AXS? Will the steps be similar?
Thanks
AXS is very similar to non-stealth Reverbs since the air valve is at the bottom and the actuator is up top.
Thank you for this video. Step by step videos with little nuggets are always great. Late to the party here, but i am looking into doing a C1 rebuild. One part i am caught up on is the set depth. Looking through the rockshox manual I can not find a chart with the required depth. I also can not find a vide with of a C1 rebuild. Is the C1 different than previous models in regards to the rebuild? Thanks.
The C1 info is out there, I made a chart years ago to keep on the bench so I don't have to go find it again 😂
Great video....thanks
You're welcome!
Great Video and completed the rebuild. Question, after putting 250psi air in the post, I tested the operation by putting in a 2mm hex key into the bottom and pressing down to activated the poppet valve. I needed a LOT of force to push the poppet valve in. What would cause such the excessive force???? I think the remote could never create such a force to move the poppet.
Great question! Even though the poppet is pressing against oil, that oil is also being pressurized by...that 250psi! Also, the lever gives an advantage when pushing that oil against the poppet, but pushing directly on it with a 2mm has less "leverage", zero actually.
I read your reply and understand the remote leverage. In your experience, is there a huge amout of pressure required using a 2mm rod against the poppet valve. I ask because after attaching the remote it could not move the poppet which raises/drops the post.@@ButterSuspension
Does the lever move? I'd bleed it again, any time the lever moves but the post doesn't, there's probably air in the system.
Awesome video, Thanks!
very good guide, loving your work
Thank you!
Merci , pour cette vidéo très bien réalisée et super clair.
Very helpful video, nice to see step by step the magic going on inside those posts. I've never had a saggy post but have an issue with a small air leak somewhere because after I bleed I get about a weeks worth of riding before the hose fills with air again and it needs bleeding again. Tried putting the hose and connectamajig under water and can't see any bubbles to suggest a leak. Remote is also brand new 1x upgrade and no leak from there. Any suggestions? Seal gone in the post itself maybe??
This was a big issue with SRAM brakes back in the day. The inner liner of the hose would get tiny tears from the barbs being installed without lube. Air would very slowly get in, but oil wouldn't leak so it seem like a mystery. (Hence why dunking the hose underwater wouldn't show anything; the bubbles were going inside) I'd check the barb fitting at the lever, make sure the hose has a flush 90 degree cut and then use slick honey on the barb threads.
@@ButterSuspension Wow, thanks man, such great knowledge. Will give it a go!
Good tutorial, Are you consider to film the AXS reverb rebuild video?
Maybe this fall, Summer season is in full swing so I don't have a ton of time for new videos...
Brilliant Video!But how can i identify which Reverb B1 i got (height etc) and which ifp height plus amount of oil in the popit i need?
The height is just how much drop the post has (100, 125, 150, etc). I would visit the Rockshox tech pages, all the IFP heights and oil heights are listed there. I have them printed on one sheet, but I'm not at the shop right now...
@@ButterSuspension thanks for the response! I think i got it.I will try to fix the sag problem tomorrow! Greetings from Berlin!
Great video!! I may have missed something so Quick question...I have reverb/stealth b1 and I am using the sm-2013-2018-reverb-stealth-a2-b1 guide. On p.31, inner shaft assembly it shows that two seal need to be replaced on the anodized head; an inner and an outer. I didn't see you talk about an inner seal, and in fact, the exploded view does not even show the inner seal. Also the rebuild kit does not come with one. I'm not totally sure what the seal does other than maybe keeping the poppet centered. Am I missing something? Thanks!
Correct, it doesn't come in the kit and I don't replace them unless i see damage.
Will you be doing C1 version or is it about the same? See another poster was asking about poppet height. Any other things to be wary of?
FANTASTIC A2/B1 rebuild, truly helpfull!!
C1 is "technically" the same but with some very different internal parts; most of it requires a different seal kit, different oil and different oil heights.
@@ButterSuspension Many thanks for clarifying Greg - makes sense! Off to the shop to begin! (User serviceable product, I'm in! Thank you for these great videos.)
Hi
your videos inspired me to service my own reverb, I have a2 model LT 380/125, I did everything step by step and followed the instructions and in the end everything works except that I only have 50 percent travel, the seat only goes down halfway
obviously i did something wrong but i don't know what? Do you know in which part I made a mistake?
I think I figured out where I made a mistake, in the height of the ifp, I measured the position of the ifp from the wrong side
I'm wondering if your IFP isn't set correctly. That depth determines the travel of the drop.
@@ButterSuspension thanks you so much for your answer 🙂🚵🍻
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
This video is phenomenal. Thank you so much for making it. I had squish. Spent about 3 hours following this video, and now the squish is GONE, rock solid! Bought the 400 hour service kit. worth it. For a 150mm Reverb Stealth B1, the oil depth is 191mm, if anyone is wondering.
One thing that may be helpful to add as commentary in the video: When the inner shaft is sunk into the oil, it needs to remain fully extended in through the inner seal head / out of the Upper Post. I accidentally bumped it down, and it squirted oil out and then I had to redo several steps.
And one question - my post has the connectamajig thing - I couldn't get the trick you showed at the end to work - where you depressed something with small allen key to test the post. I didn't want to force anything. Is there a different trick with the connectamajig?
You have to remove the connectamajig from the silver fitting at the bottom of the post to access the poppet.
Nice work, so glad I could help!
Thanks John. Is your post marked 440mm?
Great video, thanks for posting this. I don't have quite the right tools and may have bent the what you referred to as the "lower portion" after taking out the poppet. I can't get that part threaded back on to the inner tube, do you know if I can replace just that one part?
It's definitely replaceable but it's hard to find parts for Reverbs anymore. Are you in the US?
I am. Do you have one I could order from you?
I'll need some clear pictures of the part you need, showing the threaded inner bit as well as the shaft it attaches to. A picture of the upper main tub, just below the seat post guts helps too.
greg.mackenzie@gmail.com
@@ButterSuspension thanks, I sent you a few pictures to that email address, let me know if you have anything I can order from you that would help.
Awesome video thank you. What fluid do you use/can you use? I assume your using Reverb fluid, would any 2.5wt oil do the trick? Thanks
Yes, I use Reverb fluid on all of them except for the newest models that call for the Maxima Syrene. Very first gen models and instructions called for 2.5 before they came out with "Reverb fluid" but I haven't used 2.5 in about 8 years...
@@ButterSuspension awesome thanks for the reply. I have an ASX model and already ordered some Maxima, been a bit delayed in the post. Wondering if anything else would work in a pinch. Guess I’ll wait.
This a great video. Much easier to follow then the SRAM instructions. Thank you so much for posting it. I do have one question. I have a relatively new Stealth B1 post with only about 20 rides on it that developed a a squish so followed all of your rebuild instructions but only replaced the IFP seal with a blue one (same as original). No more squish but the post sticks slightly about 1/2 up. If I pull slightly it passes the sticky spot. Any suggestions on what I did wrong or forgot to lube?
First thing I would check is your seat post binder torque; make sure you have friction paste between the frame and the post and then loosen the bolt a tiny bit. If the sticking goes away and the post doesn't slip, you're good.
@@ButterSuspension Thank you so much. That fixed the problem. One last question. Do you know why the fluid level table for B1 does not show seat post height / travel like for A1.
You may need to visit a different page on the SRAM service site. I have them all on one piece of paper on my bench...
I've got an A2 and ordered the rebuild/200hr kit. I've got a little play in the saddle now. Is that a sure sign I need new brass keys as well (which my 200hr kit didn't included)? Also, it feels like a tiny bit of play between the upper post and post head, is that something that I can tighten?
If I do the full rebuild, can I pretty quickly come back later to swap the keys with new ones, or will that take a full fluid replacement again then too?
Hey Matt- too big of a question to answer here; give me a call in the US, Pacific time and we can chat. 206-234-3830 Thanks!
Hey mate my rockshox reverb stealth won’t keep air when I pump it up any idea where I should look first ,thanks
First thing I'd check is to make sure the valve core is tight. Pump it up, fill the area with water, look for bubbles.
Hey, like your video's! Question for the Sag fix of a Reverb C1, do you also set the oil level with the syringe and after that put the poppet valve like in your video? In the tech doc of Rock Shox they install the poppet valve in the housing and leave it 4mm out, then they install the compleet poppet valve housing into the oil filled inner IFP tube. They don't set the oil level with a syringe... Done that but after installing and bleding the remote, the return of the dropper is not good... thx fot your advice!
No need for a syringe/fill after installing the poppet.
When you say the return is "not good" do you mean it doesn't work or it's slow? Usually a slow return is either not enough air pressure or the hose needs another bleed.
@@ButterSuspension I disconnected the hose and when I engage the poppet valve with an allen key, the poppet valve itself is not returning smothly. it feels like it is returning in 2 times. I think I should try to rebuilt the post again... Maybe I put the poppet valve to deep in the poppet shaft (less then 4mm)
It's not smooth mechanically when you use an Allen wrench but it should be smooth once the hose is bled. It's a hydraulic system so it's expecting hydraulic pressure, not mechanical pressure.
Is this the only way of getting rid of the sag ? A complete rebuild ? What is actually the cause of the actual sag?
Yes. There are basically two "chambers" inside this post, separated by an internal floating piston. The air chamber is what pushes the post up and the oil chamber is what keeps it in position when the valve is closed. If air gets past the IFP, you now have bubbles in the oil that can be compressed, hence the squish. The only way to truly remove the bubbles is a full rebuild.
that is some fork collection ya got there fella! - I have a Reverb question>>
is it possible to remove/unscrew the post head from the upper assembly - I have an IFP pressed right up against the Vent Valve on a C1 post.
when i Google/shop >Upper assembly< 1 find pics of it in 2 pieces ready to screw together
not sure if it want to come undone thou - and not sure if it's a L or R thread???
Thanks! There will be a museum at some point.
Yes, you "can" unthread the head from the upper post, but you would need to make some tooling. But there's an easier solution. Assuming you haven't removed the IFP tube yet, you can thread the inner seal head back onto the bottom of the upper tube. Remove the schrader core and blast some compressed air into the valve. The IFP should pop to the bottom of the upper tube.
@@ButterSuspension cheers for the reply.. but no dice.. tube came out before i realised where the IFP was.. I'd already seen you vid, and went for putting the tube back in - i was really nice to it, but it didn't care.. and now the IFP is sitting on the bit the IFP tube clicks into. - then came trying to pick it out.. and now i'm chatting to you sir!
Ahh, crap. Yeah, that's a tough spot now.
The head and the upper post are on REALLY TIGHT, and with red loctite. And there's an o-ring inside that isn't part of any kit, and it's usually destroyed if you go this route.
@@ButterSuspension Aww crap is right
I'm in the Uk, and the post was from Germany just before Brexit only 5 months old.. would've been a send back if I hadn't of pulled it apart. now i'm stuck with it
trying to find a way of not throwing £350 at it.
Followup question, is the 'new' C1 grey IFP backward compatible with the A2 and B1 posts, and if yes, does it make sense to just change out the older, less reliable black or blue IFPs to this one on the first major service?
Yes, grey IFPs are backwards compatible, I always use them during any service.
@@ButterSuspension Thanks for the quick confirmation! All the best and keep up the excellent work.
Hey master guru of squish, my reverb has gotten harder and harder to compress over time, rebound is also slow af, especially in the cold to the point the post gets stuck. Otherwise non of the dreaded squish. Do you think a full rebuild is needed or a line bleed would be sufficient? Maybe check the air pressure first? The post had been bled not too long ago, maybe no more than 100h of riding in the last 6 months. Thanks in advance!
The slow up and down is probably air in the line. Best way to test it is to either speed up or slow down the adjuster at the lever; if it's already set at full fast and you unscrew it, it should slow down or not even move. If it's at full slow and you screw the adjuster in, it should speed up.
Hey, appreciate the quick response! Yeah, I think it might be the line after all that’s troublesome. Keep up the great content!
This is next level!!! Butter Suspension ;quick question for you that I have yet to answer through my research. I"m losing air pressure over time (daily), but when I reset my pressure to 250 psi, there is absolutely no squish at all. Would this require a full rebuild in your opinion or is there another work around ?
Losing air is either something wrong with the air valve, or a failed seal/sealing surface internally. The quick check is to pump up the post to 250, then spray soapy water on the valve. If you get any bubbles, replace the core or the valve o-ring. No bubbles there? Probably needs a rebuild.
@@ButterSuspension You rock!!! I’ll make sure to let you know what I find! Much respect for your work guys!
🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
@@ButterSuspension I have a similar problem and have to replace the air valve. What tool do you use to get the current one off and install the new one. Nothing seems to fit or grip properly.
Thanks for making this video but one question - is there any benefit to using dynamic seal grease over sram butter? Cheers! from the UK
SRAM has moved over to recommending the Dynamic grease I think because it holds up longer over time and has better shear properties, but I'm betting that's splitting hairs...if you have a tub of Sram Butter (Slickoleum, or Slick Honey) I wouldn't go buy the green stuff until you run out of the other.
Is an IFP installation depth a great secret? I see the markup on IFP installation tool, but these depth are never mentioned by anyone. What should I do without this tool?
Not at all, the depths are available in the Rockshox service manuals. The IFP tool is just easy to use with some of the depths pre-marked. The tool is relatively cheap, like $9 online.
@@ButterSuspension, I was just looking for this info :) From 2018 SRAM manual:
B1 Reverb Stealth IFP Height 50 mm
A2 Reverb Stealth IFP Height 30 mm
Awesome vid. Would you share the new IFP depths? I have the old tool without the new markings as well. Thanks!
I don't have them memorized and I'm away from the shop; all the measurements are on the Rockshox service pages.
Great vid! Question though, could you simply bleed the air out by removing the poppet valve and let it sit for a bit till the air has been released? @ 8:00 mark?
No, unfortunately the air is inside the upper post; basically a tube inside a tube. The poppet is just the valve at the bottom that allows oil to move.
@@ButterSuspension thx for the quick reply, so technically speaking there are THREE independent oil system at work here. Remote side, poppet valve (measured level of oil), and the seat post side (overfill)... Just trying to grasp the engineering behind the post. =)
Correct. Someday I want to make a cutaway of a Reverb. I'd also like to ride in Switzerland, and that's about as likely lol.
@@ButterSuspension HAHAHAHAH fair game! cheer bro and keep the how to vids coming!
great video! can you tell me the measurement of your scribed line for the b1 on your IFP tool. Also is there a formula for the oil ht tool settings for different extensions? Thx
Hey Eddie- 50mm for B1, 55mm for C1.
@@ButterSuspension Thanks for getting back to me. Can you also let me know what the setting measurement is for taking fluid out of the inner tube for a 440 mm dropper Thx
@@eddietseng8906 go to the Rockshox website, the service page will have all the measurements you need.
@@ButterSuspension I'm stuck on the 440mm post oil height setting too. The Rockshox service directions are significantly different from yours and I cannot find any table or other depth settings using the method shown in you vid.
@@maidaji www.servicearchive.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen.0000000005341_sm_2013-2018_reverb_stealth_a2_b1_english_rev_c.pdf
Scroll down to the chart. You'll need to determine if you have a B1 reverb stealth; i'm assuming if you have a 440, that means you have a 150mm drop, so 191mm oil height.
Great tutorial, thanks! I'm going to rebuild my A2 Reverb and I have already watched your video 3 times and still am not sure if I can do it myself. I believe I can work around the luck of the IFP height tool but here comes the other obstacle. A specific amount of hydraulic fluid must be removed from the inner shaft before the poppet valve is installed. Do you think it is wise to start the job without this special Oil Level Adjuster? Is it possible to push inside the inner shaft for example a plastic straw and draw excess fluid? Of course I would follow the manual chart lengths. I would really like to do the rebuild myself as I'm genuine grease monkey but I do not want to ruin my seat post...
The tools aren't that expensive in my opinion, and they save you a ton of time in having to source options, make sure they fit, make sure they don't scratch anything... I wouldn't want to do the job without the right tools.
Great video. Im hoping i dont need it so hoping you can answer this pls.
Im here as when doing a bleed service as was slow i used a 10mm socket instead of 9mm on the air inlet!!! Instead of removing the air cap i removed the valve. It popped as the air released. I reinserted it and did the bleed. Bleed was fine but i seem to have some play movement in the shaft now. Back forwards. Not up down. Can this be explained by what i did. Does removed the valve under pressure create damage internally. Thanks a lot!
Hey Mark- I don't think removing the valve did anything except to release the air pressure. There has to be some fire/aft movement (in addition to some twisting movement) otherwise the post wouldn't move up and down.
@@ButterSuspension ok. Thanks!
Hi
You know how to get rid of the squeaking ifp seal, after folding the seatpost it makes a squeak as if rubber is rubbing dry, this symptom is blue after using the ifp seal.
After putting the old ifp into the o-ring, there is no problem
Any suggestion what to do about it?
The latest IFP is grey, it's the 4th iteration. Softer than the blue one, doesn't squeek. The blue ones should eventually stop squeaking...
@@ButterSuspension Hi. Thanks for the answer with blue, the problem is that it sometimes makes the seatpost work very hard, which causes ifp to shift and reverb has a sag. I have to check it gray
My Reverb developed a lot of squish, like almost half the travel is used up by squish. Should it be rebuilt or just thrown out, what parts should I replace if I rebuild it, basically what should I do?
Hey Nate- the more squish there is, that just means there's more air in the oil; it's just a bigger spring, if you will. I always replace all the "sealing/moving" parts, anything that holds air or oil.
Also, be extra careful after a rebuild to never lift the seat when the post is down; this will create a vacuum in the system that pulls air into the oil. The more you pull up on it, the more air moves to the oil side, the more tho post will squish.
@@ButterSuspension Ok, thank you. I will get it rebuilt. There’s very helpful information, I probably lifted the bike by the seat quite a bit once the first little bit of play started which probably just made it worse.
Hi Greg!
Hate to ask another free question - might you know if the new red poppet cover can be used in the A2/B1 models? if so, are they (and perhaps other parts needed to swap) available for purchase? (If you sell them I'm in!)
Recall a post where a B1 was sent in for warranty and it returned with the new red cover. Love to rebuild and change droppers without changing the cable fitting on the dropper end.
Thanks!
Dave - San Diego
Hey Dave- I'm pretty so the red cover is a different thread pitch, so I don't think it's swappable between those generations. Also, Rockshox doesn't sell many of the parts as replacements.... I'm wondering if that B1 post sent in was replaced with a newer C1 generation with the red cover.
Great video dude! I like it! Do you have a video for the reverb c1?
Also noticed that the o-ring in the main piston was located not in between the white plastic rings, is it working better like that? thanks for your videos. I suscribe and like it. Cheers!!!
Hey Pablo- on B1 Reverbs there's only one white backup ring; A1 has 2. No C1 video yet, too many other projects in the pipeline! Thanks for watching!
@@ButterSuspension Great!!! Thanks!!!
Great video! Tons of useful information.
What are the dimensions of the IFP depth setter? Seems like it could be sourced/crafted without paying the crazy Rockshox markup.
I'd just buy the tool, it's $10!
Greg, thanks for the great video. I'm just about to start a rebuild on my B1 and had a question. You mentioned an oring at the base of the IFP tube where it seats on some feature. I don't think you showed replacing it in the video. Do that ever get replaced? Is there a reason not to replace it? How would you get to it? Maybe remove the schraeder? Is it on the same fitting? Does it come in the rebuild kit? Again, great video! Really appreciate it!
So technically, you shouldn't ever need to replace that. It's down inside the upper tube, it's a static o-ring so it never gets any wear. The only way to replace it is to remove the seatpost head from the upper tube, but that's super difficult to do since you'd need to make tools for a job that will (almost) never come up.
@@ButterSuspension Is there an easy way to tighten the seatpost head to the upper tube? Mine rotated after a crash. I tightened it by rotating it back, but it will rotate now if it gets bumped a bit hard. I'm assuming the initial crash broke whatever thread bond was originally used??
@@rutsnext easy, yes. Correct? No. It takes a ton of torque to loosen those (obviously) and there aren't really official tools to fix it. It wants to be taken apart, threads cleaned, red loctited and re-torqued. I've done it a few times as part of a complete rebuild.
@@ButterSuspension Got it. It doesn't need a full rebuild at this point, but I was hoping I'd be able to tighten the seatpost head while I have it apart for a 200 hour service. So I think I'll see if its manageable until it needs a full rebuild. Any advice on how to tighten it "as best as possible" without tearing it right down and red loctiting? I've been hesitant to torque it too hard rotating the seat against the brass keys in their slots as resistance when its fully assembled. That feels like it could do more damage than good. Am I better to try secure the upper post in a shaft clamp? That way seems like it would take a lot of vise pressure on the upper post to get much resistance against threading the seatpost head tighter. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
And great video. I'm a new subscriber for sure.
@@rutsnext honestly, if you're not gonna pull it completely apart to re-loctite it, i'd just twist it back straight with the saddle while mounted in the bike. The lower and upper posts are super strong, and the brass keys are so completely captured I doubt you're gonna hurt anything.
Is the system the same with external cable B1 reverb models?
Same parts and oil for the most part but the whole system is flipped internally. So there's a very different set of directions for the non-stealth models.
Hi, great video. Can you make one for a non stealth reverb please?
Maybe in the future, but the Rockshox instructions on their service page are very good too.
Where do you get your kits? I'm having a hard time finding a full rebuild kit with the brass keys for the A2 nonstealth
Right now, I don't get any kits, lol. I just used my last bits from a tackle box that SRAM sells. Everything is out of stock, everywhere and probably will be until March. Makes me nervous! I've been able to find some stuff online.
One thing I will say about Reverbs, they can still be rebuilt without replacing every single "wear item" and they can still work well. It's when they've been abused for many years and the bushings or keys are cooked, it's game over until parts are available again.
Thank you for a great video, Do you have experience with fox IsoStrout ? almost zero documentation on this and I want to do a service.
Thank you.
Haven't done one yet. You'll need many specific, proprietary tools plus nitrogen... Here's the link:
www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=1049
@@ButterSuspension Thank you, I was referring to the regular x/Hours clean, oil change and so on. The process is here: trek.scene7.com/is/content/TrekBicycleProducts/Asset%20Library/documents/Manuals/pdf/TK19_2020_Supercaliber_Service_Manual_USEN_WEB.pdf but the document is not so good and does not show few components.
Rad. But can you rebuild a rigid fork? 🤔
Yup, boom, all done! That'll be $50.
@@ButterSuspension damn fast turnaround on this one thanks!
I was wondering why you needed to replace the silver part, you stated it was junk. Just curious what was wrong with it. I rebuilt several reverbs and never replaced that part. I did have an issue with my 1X lever bleed or something not working like it should, Did the back and forth bleed lever in and out during bleeding. but when I go to push the lever it barely feels like it opens the poppet fully, and I have to really push the seat down with force to get it to go down. Its done this since day one and the slow to fast screw was set to max slow.
Just curious why is this bleed not working as it should. Any thoughts.
This one needed replacement since the threads were messed up. During a normal rebuild, it's not necessary to replace.
As for the bleed, maybe check to make sure there's no kinks or bends in the hose?
@@ButterSuspension I just disassembled my post and once again the inner seal head oring was pooched out of the groove. I am very careful when installing the inner seal head when the oring gets inserted into the bore. I have been buying the full rebuild kit as I only do a few reverbs for myself and friends, mine has been the only one giving me this issue. When the oring gets pooched a tiny bit of course oil blows out and then the alum shaft seal bushing gets tiny scratches on it from the pooched oring pushing it to one side. Now I'm wondering after watching your video you mentioned the two o rings for the outer part of the seal head hard and soft and different dia. its seems to me the pre built inner seal head assy has a very thin o ring for the o ring slot maybe causing the o ring to pooch out. What diameter is the O ring that seals the head to the shaft. I want to confirm what is on there is correct or not. Thanks for the reply, and keep up the great video's. FYI my son is a Freshman at Udub plays baseball for them. We will be travelling up there when the season starts up.
Do you need an oil level adjustment tool or an oil height tool? Or both? I didn’t notice you using g either here. Did I miss something. Great video!
33:42 in the video...
Hello again! Are the collars (top caps) of B1 models meant to be ‘rebuilt’? I can’t find info on how to do it if so. The internal parts of the collar seem very tough to remove and new internals seem impossible to re-fit back into the collar.
Kind of, but they don't offer a how to on any of the current tech docs since the newest seal kits also don't have those parts in them. Rockshox used to have almost every seal in the full rebuild kits but they moved away from that. Now they just recommend replacing the upper seal head as an assembly.
Awesome video! Great tips!
I have a question regarding the Reverb Oil. Are there any substitutes for this oil? I’ve read some non-reliable forum thread that says this is 2,5wt fork oil? Do you have any comment on this matter? The reason I’m asking is that... I live in Serbia (non EU country) and there is no regular supply of RS parts and fastest delivery from Germany will take around 2 weeks minimum. I have some Motorex 2,5wt racing fork oil and was thinking to give it a try. Any thoughts on this matter? Really appreciate the answer. Thank you 🤕☺️
Hey Janko- the original oil used in the first gen Reverb was 2.5wt. But it was Rockshox branded 2.5, so I don't know how it compares to other brands 2.5...
@@ButterSuspension Hey, that’s really useful tip. I”ll certainly give it a try. Thanks a lot!
Really the weight is different from manufacturer to manufacturer. So one 2.5 isnt the same as another. Its probably better to reference the viscosity index.
Great video.... I had a service on my dropper and the post will not go down all the way, can you help in any way for a cure for this issue I have, any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Is it a Reverb?
Yes, with the internal hose.
Hard to say without seeing it, but I'd guess there's too much oil or the internal floating piston wasn't set properly. If a shop serviced your post and it doesn't work correctly, I'd ask them to make it right.
Many thanks for your advice, I'll contact the shop that worked on it.
@@ButterSuspension hi again, just been to the bike shop and they said they pulled it apart twice an the problem he encountered is that the ifp is getting back pressure and will not sit in the correct position. I bought the dropper off ebay an think it may be a mix n match post! So I'm cutting my losses an they are fitting a brand X for me as we speak. Thanks for all your help, mark
how much does this service cost?
Assuming there's no internal damage, it's usually $110-150.
sweet thanks@@ButterSuspension
when can I bring it to you, I live in kirkland@@ButterSuspension
I should have time the first week of the year. I'm back in the shop on the 2nd, through Thursday 10-4. But please send me an email first so I can get you on the calendar. Greg@buttersuspension.com
You said that the o-ring under the seal head bushing wasn't the same durometer as a normal o-ring, do you happen to know durometer that one is?
Hey Stuart, I don't. But it's pretty stiff as it's designed to act as a spring to keep outward pressure on the bushing.
can u show a detailed verison of 27:27 i have mine dismantled and fogotten the orientation of each seals
Look at page 20 of this manual. I had the same issue. The u part should face away from the wench flats. www.servicearchive.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen.0000000004211_rev_b_2014_reverb_stealth_sm.pdf
Where did you get those shaft clamps?
The brass clamps are Rockshox, any local bike shop can order them. The bigger silver clamps are made by Fox but I don't think they make them anymore.
@@ButterSuspension I have the brass clamps but I liked the silver ones, I’ll try to contact Fox and see if they have something they can spare
They're originally from the DOSS dropper post.
3cm above your shaft clamp is a hex. You can use that instead of clamping
Are you talking about the 11mm hex? I've seen a ton of those smashed from too much torque, the way I've been doing it I've never had an issue. But if you don't have clamps, makes sense.
@@ButterSuspension yeah 11mm hex, i dont have clamps, so i must use that, or hold the shaft with a rubber
Do I need to use a vise bench?
I don't think there's any way to get the proper torque on the inner and outer seal heads without one...
@@ButterSuspension I’m probably going to have to send it in to get it rebuild then.
I hate to be ‘that guy’ because I found this video super useful but at 39mins when you tested the post and push down it does look like it squishes down a fraction. It also pops up a fraction when you push the poppet with your Allen tool. Is there a simple explanation, was something missed?
The B1 posts have about 1mm of mechanical play; as the poppet head needs to have some clearance for the circlip. That or your video resolution is INCREDIBLE.
Okay. Thanks for the reply and video. I really like the Reverb post. I had too many cable operated posts have the actuator cable freeze during cold winter rides. Leaves you with a post stuck up, down, or permanently activated. Though I’m not sure I would do a full service DIY it would be really cool to see a video where you perform the interim minor service.
Wilton vice, check. Knipex wrenches, check. New customer, check!
Tools don't cost money, they make money!
How can I tell when the brass keys need to be replaced
I almost always replace them, unless the post is super clean inside. If the identifying grooves are worn down, that's a pretty good sign it's time.
@@ButterSuspension thank you
The more complicated it is, the less reliable it becomes. Give me the good old rigid seatpost. Remarkable video, though. Thanks.
Your video are very much helpful to me personally as a bike technician. I wanna learn more from you. Can I send you a DM on messenger?
Sure, just find me on IG.
do not use a 2.5mm hex to activate the poppet! if it slips it will get stuck which is exactly what happened to me twice with both a 2.5mm and then a 3mm after the first slipped attempt!! found a 4mm did the trick, god knows what damage has happened as a result of this bad info
For this generation post, the hose fitting will only take a 2.5mm "tool". Older posts with the previous generation fitting definitely work best with a 4mm Allen.