that's probably the best one I've seen yet. going on the hunt to find materials to build mine identical to yours. been going through videos trying to find a good and believe this is it.. THANK YOU
THANKS, I get a lot of comments on why I didn't put rods on the lock down bolts so I don't need the wrench, Well the reason is I need more leverage to crank down on this thing to bind heavier gauge material. Thanks for watching.
Great video Preacher, I like your design of this bender, one of the simplest, and yet efficient builds i've seen on Utube. I'm also going to build one in the very near future but i actually am going to make it 5' in length as i need to make running boards, along with other body pieces for my 39 buick coupe project. Thank you for sharing with us.
Nice! Best example of what I would need. I was getting worried everyone was making these smaller breaks. I need one 45” so your 50” looks perfect. I’m glad, it looks like it should work!
Thank you brother I myself is working on a bender and yours give me good ideas may God continue to bless you preaching the word and fabricating metal works
back in the day you made your tools that you need to make a living and thus guy did a great job on a break it did 14g pretty easy and it looks better then the cheap ones i see at the flea market thanks for the video loved it
Very nice job. I have done my share of bending with industrial benders. No matter how heavily built, someone will find a way to bend and distort the bending beams. You may wish to consider adding truss's to the movable angle beam. Angle iron is a good structural unit, but it will distort with enough applied force. Your video is appreciated.
+Robert Beck I will most likely only use this bender 2-3 times a year. And nothing more than 16g. anything heavier than that I will buy angle and weld to it. Thanks.
When you aren't preaching you are bending metal. Great Job Preacher, you have built a very nice break and it looks like you have put a lot of thought into it. I like the bull nose edge instead of a sharp edge which can hurt people.
Preacher I changed up your plans a little.On the ends where you welded the bolts to hold the angle iron die I widened it to hold two bolts so I could move the die back and clamp down some half inch plate so I could use it as a box brake. Cool post thanks for sharing.
Good design and video. Like a lot of other people i have wanted to build one of these myself but most videos do not explain there rig . This looks like a very easy break to build and use .Thanks for the material list. I will be on the watch for the teardown video also. Thanks again and keep up the work.
That is a awesome ! Video . I liked what you said , giving the credit to the instructors you had in the past . well I want to thank you for sharing your idead . If God's will I'll buildone my self see how it'll come out . God bless you!
To make bend less muscle put a diagonal pipe on the ends and put a counter weight at the bottom. Do not try to make the bemd all at once, but do the bend 3 to 4 smaller bends. Now I got to build one for my shop, great job !
Just opening up my channel, just got electric in my 2 car metal garage so I'm off and running. First project is getting my garage organized ( been the families storage for the last 2 years) and fix my trailer so I can haul some metal. This week I have some long restaurant stainless serving tables coming in which will become tool boxes. For that I got to make a break for the stainless. I think If I just a couple short 1/2 "plate, and put a shim between them on the ends. Bevel the top edge, I can use that for the short bends instead of needing to use fingers.
The Blue Collar Preacher started building mine today, went 80” long with a 75” bend capacity. Yes I agree more is better. I thinking to someday put some pneumatic air rams on mine so I don’t have to manually do it. I’ll give your channel a shout out on my review video of the build. That way some of my followers who don’t know you can check you out!!
i think if you cut vertical slits in the front half of the clamp part with a thin disk on an angle grinder at uneven intervals you can actually use those when youre bending a (1 inch high) box from sheetmetal , the sides allready bend need to fall in the slots when you bend the next then you can bend beyond the angle of the clamp itself
Weld a couple bars on opposite sides of the nut so you don't have to fumble around with a wrench. Or weld one of those Chinese wrenches to the nut! Great build. Thanks for posting!
Nice looking break! Unless you are counting on the strength and stiffness of the table it is mounted on, it looks like the bottom 1/2" x 6" base could use a truss or vertical plate stiffener. The 1/2" x 6" steel base is quite flexible in the vertical direction and this would not allow the material to be clamped in well.
Nice job preacher! I built one from scratch as well but mine can't handle anything thicker than 26 gauge steel sheet like they use in HVAC duct work. I was going to add a truss but put it off until I tested it out. If I try to bend 14 gauge, I get bowing in the clamp. After looking at your fine job, I'm going to add the top truss to mine. God willing, I'd like to post mine once I get it refined. for clamping the stock down, I have an eccentric cam mechanism that draws the top clamp down using a single lever.
Great Job Blue Collar Preacher.. Thanks so much for doing the video and all the tips, I to have been wanting to make a break and have watched a lot of the other RUclips video's on DIY breaks.. Great Job..
it would be cool if you could add 'fingers' to the brake for box/pan bends. also if you welded a few pieces of rod to your bolts, you wouldn't need a wrench to insert/remove pieces from the brake. :)
I have thought about making one but figured it would take up too much space in the shop but looking at yours I see it can be easily stored in the corner on the floor next to a wall..
I would like to do this bending but in a smaller scale, to a feeder that stores about 22 pounds of food to feed stray dogs. Thank you for your idea Greetings from Venezuela. Excuse my English
I liked your Sheet Metal Brake so much that I'm in the process of making one. Any chance of being able to see some pictures of the section where you have welded the bolt to the truss at the top as I'm a bit unsure how you have put it in place there. Thanks
I used a 6" 5/8" bolt cut the head off, and welded the truss section to it, and welded a 3/4" pipe at the top of the angle at the bottom (Be sure you thread your nut on first, when you tighten down on the nut it pushes the truss against the angle forcing it down. Hope this helps, I have super busy lately doing like 4 jobs a week at this time, also we relocated to Wyoming from Utah about 2 years ago, and still have most the shop packed up; We are in the process of building new house and shop. Thanks for watching.
Weld the hold down nuts to the end of a 3" or 4" long piece of 3/4" or 1" pipe, weld a cross handle on the other end of the pipe - no more finding wrenches! For the truss adjustment, a 4" or 5" stick of steel welded to the flat of the adjustment nut.
Good job, now add some roundbar handles on the nuts, so u won't need the wrench to tighten,150mm x 10mm bend at 50mm 45 degrees, to form a handle , weld to nut's. the centre nut add a T handle, 2 100mm pieces off roundbar welded to nuts, round the ends off so as not to hurt your hands. We are not old just have some miles on us :)
One of the better home made benders. You could make handles for the adjusting nuts so you dont have to rely on a shifter. Also, the centre truss bolt should not need to be tightened for every job, once its adjusted, it should not need to be moved. I can see a small problem thats causing your bends to be not very sharp. You have a gap and too much space between the top blade and the bottom one. Otherwise it looks ok.
Real nice job, both on the brake & the video! Nice & clear so we could see what you did. Some of the other guy's aren't so clear.What did you use to weld it together? MIG or stick?Thank you!
nice job! Looks like it has the best of all features for a brake. One suggestion - I think it would be better if you can fold the edge a little past 90degrees due to metal property’s when bending...you may want to go to 45degrees in order to do a hem edge.
Thanks I just use a ball pein hammer and tap it down to the edge of the angle iron, then re clamp it down in the brake to flatten it down, when I get my new shop up and running I will have to demonstrate.
I'm impressed, what's the max Gage thickness you can bend? and to do away with the "Bull Nose " have you given thought to perhaps putting a bevel on the forward or leading edge of the pinch/bridge bar ?
Gosh I looked everywhere here can" find anything but one that is 3.5". Couldn't find that size on line either. Another question, started welding the pieces today, for the hinges, the solid tube pieces, did you weld them to the inside of the angle iron? The picture almost looks like maybe you removed some material to fit the piece in?Thanks again!
Good job, and thanks alot for your credits to me and the other people, you are very kind. To solve the stuck problem when releasing the brake, you must turning the locking bolts up side down . Your brake, find it difficult to slide over the threads of the bolts so stuck. Also your hinges, the internal diameter of bushing is too big for this pivot (as I can see, on video, the gap must be at least about 2.5 mm). Good luck at your next projects. Bill
Hey that's a good idea thanks for sharing this, but I wanted to give you an idea put crank wheels at the end and middle so you don't have to keep dropping that damn crescent wrench lol good luck bro
Cool, I used to set up them in a factory, always wondered why they call them a brake when they bend not break, if they broke the metal that wouldn't be good......
All of the RUclips homemade brake videos that I've seen show the operator's need to continually loosen, then tighten the lock-down nuts at each end (and in this case, the center). It seems to be more time-consuming than desirable. I'm thinking cam levers with handles that are quicker and more user-friendly.
powder coating oven? they're good, but just buy a good heat lamp. you should see some of the size of project I've powder coated with a single heat lamp
The edge of the top clamp should be set back 1.5 times the thickness of the metal. I have scene several commercial benders messed up because the operator did not set the top back far enough.
Great construction and work! I watched it a couple times to try and figure out how you did the hinges. I saw the sizes you used but did you remove material in order to make it flush with the edge of the angle iron?
nice bender. appreciate your time and research. How thick of metal do you figure this will bend. I have some 3mm plate i would like to try. Have you tried anything in this thickness?
could you not just leave the nut on the truss tight, instead of loosening it every time you make a bend? Also, I wish you would have went over the hinges a little more, but I got the jist of it..... 😇 Thanks for the great video. Yours looks simple to make, yet very effective. I need to bend some 16 gauge aluminum and I think your version perfectly suits my needs. Great job!
Hi BCP, You must subscribe to the theory Go Big or Go Home. That thing is massive!!..Did you think about welding some 5/16 carriage bolts onto those nuts so you don't have to use the adjustable all the time. Nice Job my bother. God Bless You
dude, have you ever thought of welding handles to those nuts ?(the ones that are attached to the spring bolt) if you havent yet and like that idea. weld them at the same angle that you use your cresent wrench at 6:00
+seannootherway Had lots of comments on that one, No because I want to be able to really get down tightening on them, the thicker the metal the tighter you need to make it. Would end up using a cheater bar on it, so better just use wrench. Also makes it easier to store away when not in use.
OK, you tighten both ends down first, and then the middle one to make it square, or flush, or whatever. It seems like you don't have to loosen the middle one again because the two on teach end should loosen it enough to slide the sheet metal out. I am asking a question because of what it seems like to me.
+Luvstruck I guess that would work, when your are bending more than one bend on same metal. I Just do this for storage time, to keep everything from warping. Thanks.
Fantastic work, BCP. Couple of questions for you please about the hinges. Someone asked if you attached the round stock going into the tubing to the inside of the corner of the bottom angle. I agree with that person that it looks like you removed some of the round stock, and that would move the center of the hinge up by the amount removed. Or did you just weld the round stock to the underside as is? Hope that makes sense. Also, in that same post you mentioned that the round stock was 3/8" and in the materials list it's 1/2". Would 3/8 do? Thanks again
Angles = 2 @ 50”x 3x3x¼, 2 @ 26”x 1x1x3/16, 2 @ 5”x3x3x¼, 2 @ 6”x2x2x¼.
Pipes = 4 @ 3”x1”ID (handle inserts), 1 @ 3”x¾”ID, (truss), 2@ 2”x3/4ID (bench clamps),
2 @ 3”x1/2ID, (hinges), 2 @ 6”x½” round stock (hinges), 1 @ 36” (handle). 5 bolts and nuts 4”x 5/8” 2 springs 1x4, Flat stock 56”x6x½.
your souther preacher man
donald laisure I'm hick from Wyoming. Preachin in Utah.
Sweet i love man of GOD that use hands not use there voice
Looking powder coating stuff
+donald laisure (73SuperGlide62) Man of all trades, I use my voice as well.
that's probably the best one I've seen yet. going on the hunt to find materials to build mine identical to yours. been going through videos trying to find a good and believe this is it.. THANK YOU
Thanks.
FINALLY... someone demonstrating the bending of something thicker than sheet metal! Thanks.
THANKS, I get a lot of comments on why I didn't put rods on the lock down bolts so I don't need the wrench, Well the reason is I need more leverage to crank down on this thing to bind heavier gauge material. Thanks for watching.
Great video Preacher, I like your design of this bender, one of the simplest, and yet efficient builds i've seen on Utube. I'm also going to build one in the very near future but i actually am going to make it 5' in length as i need to make running boards, along with other body pieces for my 39 buick coupe project. Thank you for sharing with us.
Thanks for watching.
Very well built
Simple yet effective
The added center down pressure very much needed
By far the best I’ve seen on here
Thanks preacher
You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
Nice! Best example of what I would need. I was getting worried everyone was making these smaller breaks. I need one 45” so your 50” looks perfect. I’m glad, it looks like it should work!
Yes most sheet metal is 48'' wide so I made sure I could get a piece in it, works great. Thanks for watching
Thank you brother I myself is working on a bender and yours give me good ideas may God continue to bless you preaching the word and fabricating metal works
Thanks for watching , and God Bless you as well.
back in the day you made your tools that you need to make a living and thus guy did a great job on a break it did 14g pretty easy and it looks better then the cheap ones i see at the flea market thanks for the video loved it
Thanks.
Very nice job. I have done my share of bending with industrial benders. No matter how heavily built, someone will find a way to bend and distort the bending beams. You may wish to consider adding truss's to the movable angle beam. Angle iron is a good structural unit, but it will distort with enough applied force. Your video is appreciated.
+Robert Beck I will most likely only use this bender 2-3 times a year. And nothing more than 16g. anything heavier than that I will buy angle and weld to it. Thanks.
The pipe holes in two locations is a great idea! The springs to raise the clamp is a help, maybe need a quicker way of loosening/tightening though.
I don't use this as much as some, it makes it easier for me to store away when I'm not using it. Thanks for watching.
When you aren't preaching you are bending metal. Great Job Preacher, you have built a very nice break and it looks like you have put a lot of thought into it. I like the bull nose edge instead of a sharp edge which can hurt people.
Actually I only use this about twice a year, but I do a lot of other things. Thanks.
Dear BCP-- FANTASTIC job. You've inspired me to buy a band saw (instead of the brake) and build one myself!
Thank you.
There is nothing like American ingenuity. I hope mine comes out as good as this. Well Done.
Best one I've seen. Great ideas. Love the springs.
Thanks for watching, I also made a nice sandblasting cabinet you might want to check out.
Great job on the build!
Very well done!
Thanks for watching.
one of the best basic brakes on the internet! nice Job! Great views of how it was made and used. Props!
Thank you, a great piece of work you make the world go forward with your publicity.
Thanks.
Preacher I changed up your plans a little.On the ends where you welded the bolts to hold the angle iron die I widened it to hold two bolts so I could move the die back and clamp down some half inch plate so I could use it as a box brake. Cool post thanks for sharing.
That is why I love RUclips, we can learn how to and how not to do things, or even improve on them. Thanks.
Good design and video. Like a lot of other people i have wanted to build one of these myself but most videos do not explain there rig . This looks like a very easy break to build and use .Thanks for the material list. I will be on the watch for the teardown video also. Thanks again and keep up the work.
Thanks coming soon.
List of material is a big help. We can change or add to based on what you used. Thanks!
+Gary Schriner Thats the good part about RUclips, get ideas and improve on them.
Thank you for the explanation and the walk-through. Great vid and I have another project to add to the list. 😄
+Rudderify Thanks. working on oven now. will be posting shortly.
That is a awesome ! Video . I liked what you said , giving the credit to the instructors you had in the past . well I want to thank you for sharing your idead . If God's will I'll buildone my self see how it'll come out . God bless you!
Thank you very much, it has been a great tool. God Bless.
Humility is this mans virtue; great job!
Very nice! The one i got works great! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching.
To make bend less muscle put a diagonal pipe on the ends and put a counter weight at the bottom. Do not try to make the bemd all at once, but do the bend 3 to 4 smaller bends. Now I got to build one for my shop, great job !
Thanks for watching, I only use my bender about once a year, and need to store when not in use.
I will be building mine in the next week to build stainless tool boxes. Trying to come up with a way to add fingers.
Cool, I just subscribed to your channel can't wait to see some stuff welded up.
Just opening up my channel, just got electric in my 2 car metal garage so I'm off and running. First project is getting my garage organized ( been the families storage for the last 2 years) and fix my trailer so I can haul some metal. This week I have some long restaurant stainless serving tables coming in which will become tool boxes. For that I got to make a break for the stainless. I think If I just a couple short 1/2 "plate, and put a shim between them on the ends. Bevel the top edge, I can use that for the short bends instead of needing to use fingers.
Great idea to be able to apply some centre force. Much appreciated.
That looks like a very workable design. Nice work!
Thanks.
Going to build one of these on my channel and like you was searching for ideas. Nice job!!!!
I say the more the better; that way people can get more ideas. Thanks for watching
The Blue Collar Preacher started building mine today, went 80” long with a 75” bend capacity. Yes I agree more is better. I thinking to someday put some pneumatic air rams on mine so I don’t have to manually do it. I’ll give your channel a shout out on my review video of the build. That way some of my followers who don’t know you can check you out!!
@@austinanson8357 Looking forward to watching it. I will do the same.
Out of all the metal breaks I've seen on RUclips, yours the best. If you don't mind can you share your plans? The materials, measurements, etc.
Michael streete I will get those soon thanks.
Michael streete Angles = 2 @ 50”x 3x3x¼, 2 @ 26”x 1x1x3/16, 2 @ 5”x3x3x¼, 2 @ 6”x2x2x¼.
Pipes = 4 @ 3”x1”ID (handle inserts), 1 @ 3”x¾”ID, (truss), 2@ 2”x3/4ID (bench clamps),
2 @ 3”x1/2ID, (hinges), 2 @ 6”x½” round stock (hinges), 1 @ 36” (handle). 5 bolts and nuts 4”x 5/8” 2 springs 1x4, Flat stock 56”x6x½.
Very nice. Simple but useful design.
+Kevin Ashby Thanks.
You should weld some levers onto the bolts to speed up tightening/loosening. Good job ... going to steal your idea. Thanks!
Best out of the way brake when not in use I've seen.
Thanks. Yes I have only used it a hand full of times since I made it, but when I need it I can get it out. Thanks for watching.
i think if you cut vertical slits in the front half of the clamp part with a thin disk on an angle grinder at uneven intervals you can actually use those when youre bending a (1 inch high) box from sheetmetal , the sides allready bend need to fall in the slots when you bend the next then you can bend beyond the angle of the clamp itself
Weld a couple bars on opposite sides of the nut so you don't have to fumble around with a wrench. Or weld one of those Chinese wrenches to the nut! Great build. Thanks for posting!
+Mark W I use this thing maybe once a year. If I had to use it more often that might be a good idea.
Nice looking break! Unless you are counting on the strength and stiffness of the table it is mounted on, it looks like the bottom 1/2" x 6" base could use a truss or vertical plate stiffener. The 1/2" x 6" steel base is quite flexible in the vertical direction and this would not allow the material to be clamped in well.
Well made same design as mine I've had for 20 years l made 3 different size pipe diameter top jigs for radious bends
Gracias Sr Termine de fabricar mi Dobladora Guiándome de su Tutorial Saludos Cordiales des Perú.
Nice job preacher! I built one from scratch as well but mine can't handle anything thicker than 26 gauge steel sheet like they use in HVAC duct work. I was going to add a truss but put it off until I tested it out. If I try to bend 14 gauge, I get bowing in the clamp. After looking at your fine job, I'm going to add the top truss to mine. God willing, I'd like to post mine once I get it refined. for clamping the stock down, I have an eccentric cam mechanism that draws the top clamp down using a single lever.
Great Job Blue Collar Preacher.. Thanks so much for doing the video and all the tips, I to have been wanting to make a break and have watched a lot of the other RUclips video's on DIY breaks.. Great Job..
Thank you very much, thanks for watching.
Nice..... I saved this one to make in the future. I like the tightening bolt in the center
Thanks for the video. I need to weld up one of these for myself with my powerimig.
Thanks.
great job guy , loads of info keep up the good work
+Dione Dean Thanks.
it would be cool if you could add 'fingers' to the brake for box/pan bends. also if you welded a few pieces of rod to your bolts, you wouldn't need a wrench to insert/remove pieces from the brake. :)
I have thought about making one but figured it would take up too much space in the shop but looking at yours I see it can be easily stored in the corner on the floor next to a wall..
+Walkertongdee Yes I actually store mine on the bottom shelf of my work table that I made out of an old door (the one in the video).
I would like to do this bending but in a smaller scale, to a feeder that stores about 22 pounds of food to feed stray dogs. Thank you for your idea Greetings from Venezuela. Excuse my English
I liked your Sheet Metal Brake so much that I'm in the process of making one. Any chance of being able to see some pictures of the section where you have welded the bolt to the truss at the top as I'm a bit unsure how you have put it in place there. Thanks
I used a 6" 5/8" bolt cut the head off, and welded the truss section to it, and welded a 3/4" pipe at the top of the angle at the bottom (Be sure you thread your nut on first, when you tighten down on the nut it pushes the truss against the angle forcing it down. Hope this helps, I have super busy lately doing like 4 jobs a week at this time, also we relocated to Wyoming from Utah about 2 years ago, and still have most the shop packed up; We are in the process of building new house and shop. Thanks for watching.
Weld the hold down nuts to the end of a 3" or 4" long piece of 3/4" or 1" pipe, weld a cross handle on the other end of the pipe - no more finding wrenches! For the truss adjustment, a 4" or 5" stick of steel welded to the flat of the adjustment nut.
That is a very clean design and well made project. I want to use my everlast and weld up a sheet brake. I hope it turns out as nice as yours did.
Thank you, and thanks for watching.
nice build
Thanks for watching.
Good job, now add some roundbar handles on the nuts, so u won't need the wrench to tighten,150mm x 10mm bend at 50mm 45 degrees, to form a handle , weld to nut's. the centre nut add a T handle, 2 100mm pieces off roundbar welded to nuts, round the ends off so as not to hurt your hands.
We are not old just have some miles on us :)
One of the better home made benders. You could make handles for the adjusting nuts so you dont have to rely on a shifter. Also, the centre truss bolt should not need to be tightened for every job, once its adjusted, it should not need to be moved. I can see a small problem thats causing your bends to be not very sharp. You have a gap and too much space between the top blade and the bottom one. Otherwise it looks ok.
Real nice job, both on the brake & the video! Nice & clear so we could see what you did. Some of the other guy's aren't so clear.What did you use to weld it together? MIG or stick?Thank you!
+Lonewolf3165 I have a mig 220V 40amp. took a while for me to dail it in, but I think I am better welder now.
This is the way better benders I seen on RUclips great job can you tell me the dimensions of the angle iron that you have used to make this Bender
I pined all the dimensions and material needed, should show up at the top of the comments. Thanks for watching.
@@TheBlueCollarPreacher thank you sir have a bless day be well be blessed
Excellent job! Well done!
I do like it and thanks for shared. I'll build my I need it for my food cart project.
Thank you for the video, I will be working on mine this weekend
Very nice!! thanks for sharing and some good idea's
Rob Egerton Thank you
Great idea on the truss to keep the angle. From bowing nice build
Thanks buddy. Just copied part of your design. Turned out sweet. I now have a Lean Green Bending Machine
Real nice unit.
Thanks, and thanks for watching.
I was going to make a stationary truss you have the idea glad I watched your vid
Thanks.
nice job! Looks like it has the best of all features for a brake.
One suggestion - I think it would be better if you can fold the edge a little past 90degrees due to metal property’s when bending...you may want to go to 45degrees in order to do a hem edge.
Thanks I just use a ball pein hammer and tap it down to the edge of the angle iron, then re clamp it down in the brake to flatten it down, when I get my new shop up and running I will have to demonstrate.
The Blue Collar Preacher Great! Can’t wait to see it.
Wow that is really nice. That is something I want to make with my everlast welder when I've got a bit more space.
thanks for watching.
nice job.
love all the details!
+3D Singh Thanks,
I'm impressed, what's the max Gage thickness you can bend? and to do away with the "Bull Nose " have you given thought to perhaps putting a bevel on the forward or leading edge of the pinch/bridge bar ?
Cuanto mide de largo excelente maquina
thanks for the video .you could further explain how the bolt is tightened average?
I defnitly will thanks for the wonderfull tips
Gosh I looked everywhere here can" find anything but one that is 3.5". Couldn't find that size on line either. Another question, started welding the pieces today, for the hinges, the solid tube pieces, did you weld them to the inside of the angle iron? The picture almost looks like maybe you removed some material to fit the piece in?Thanks again!
+Scott Sawyer I used regular 3/8 black plumbing pipe for that, and 3/8 round stock.
muy buen video gracias por subirlo
Good job, and thanks alot for your credits to me and the other people, you are very kind.
To solve the stuck problem when releasing the brake, you must turning the locking bolts up side down . Your brake, find it difficult to slide over the threads of the bolts so stuck.
Also your hinges, the internal diameter of bushing is too big for this pivot (as I can see, on video, the gap must be at least about 2.5 mm).
Good luck at your next projects.
Bill
kess Thanks for the tips
Hey that's a good idea thanks for sharing this, but I wanted to give you an idea put crank wheels at the end and middle so you don't have to keep dropping that damn crescent wrench lol good luck bro
Cool, I used to set up them in a factory, always wondered why they call them a brake when they bend not break, if they broke the metal that wouldn't be good......
Looks great.
All of the RUclips homemade brake videos that I've seen show the operator's need to continually loosen, then tighten the lock-down nuts at each end (and in this case, the center). It seems to be more time-consuming than desirable. I'm thinking cam levers with handles that are quicker and more user-friendly.
DDEENY If you need to use it like on a daily basis, you might just invest in one. I only use mine on occasions, like once or twice a year.
You dah man! Gotta learn to weld so that I can be all-powerful like you.
thanks.
thank you for the idea sir... i hope u do a lot more videos
+louie malaon I have added a few more since this one. Thanks.
powder coating oven? they're good, but just buy a good heat lamp. you should see some of the size of project I've powder coated with a single heat lamp
very good
Good job mate come in handy for you .old jimmy west australia
Nice Job...Looks good too....
finily I've got what I needed, thanks fellow you very smart, I'll bild one just coples inchs bigger then yours for gotters y know
Well done--thanks for sharing.
Thanks.
The edge of the top clamp should be set back 1.5 times the thickness of the metal. I have scene several commercial benders messed up because the operator did not set the top back far enough.
Great construction and work! I watched it a couple times to try and figure out how you did the hinges. I saw the sizes you used but did you remove material in order to make it flush with the edge of the angle iron?
+jbandura19 Yes I ground out the inside edge to make it flush.
Great video! Thank you
nice bender. appreciate your time and research. How thick of metal do you figure this will bend. I have some 3mm plate i would like to try. Have you tried anything in this thickness?
+MrMk3forme I have bent 16g I don't know what that is in mm, but I have seen other videos where hydraulics is used on heavier material.
yep i think this is around 10-12 guage. although yours looks mighty stout i believe it would still be a challenge
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could you not just leave the nut on the truss tight, instead of loosening it every time you make a bend? Also, I wish you would have went over the hinges a little more, but I got the jist of it..... 😇 Thanks for the great video. Yours looks simple to make, yet very effective. I need to bend some 16 gauge aluminum and I think your version perfectly suits my needs. Great job!
Hi BCP, You must subscribe to the theory Go Big or Go Home. That thing is massive!!..Did you think about welding some 5/16 carriage bolts onto those nuts so you don't have to use the adjustable all the time. Nice Job my bother. God Bless You
dude, have you ever thought of welding handles to those nuts ?(the ones that are attached to the spring bolt) if you havent yet and like that idea. weld them at the same angle that you use your cresent wrench at 6:00
+seannootherway Had lots of comments on that one, No because I want to be able to really get down tightening on them, the thicker the metal the tighter you need to make it. Would end up using a cheater bar on it, so better just use wrench. Also makes it easier to store away when not in use.
very nice thank you for posting !
Thanks
Good solution!
Very nice. I might make one myself. What is the largest gauge you have bent?
12 gauge, and it was a bit tough. had some bullnosing going on.
OK, you tighten both ends down first, and then the middle one to make it square, or flush, or whatever. It seems like you don't have to loosen the middle one again because the two on teach end should loosen it enough to slide the sheet metal out. I am asking a question because of what it seems like to me.
+Luvstruck I guess that would work, when your are bending more than one bend on same metal. I Just do this for storage time, to keep everything from warping. Thanks.
Great job!
Thanks.
Fantastic work, BCP. Couple of questions for you please about the hinges. Someone asked if you attached the round stock going into the tubing to the inside of the corner of the bottom angle. I agree with that person that it looks like you removed some of the round stock, and that would move the center of the hinge up by the amount removed. Or did you just weld the round stock to the underside as is? Hope that makes sense. Also, in that same post you mentioned that the round stock was 3/8" and in the materials list it's 1/2". Would 3/8 do? Thanks again
I removed some of the angle iron so I could get a good weld on the round stock, and keep it as close to the edge as possible. Thanks.
you removed angle iron from the inside corner? How did you do that?
Plasma cutter and grinder.
Great Job Preacher looks and works great !
Thanks.