⚓️ NOMAD - Yacht interior on a budget.
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- Опубликовано: 26 фев 2018
- The sound for this video is in stereo. If you are not hearing any sound on this video, or just hearing intro music, try switching your computers sound to mono. My apologies if this is causing you any trouble.
This is about saving a little money while building drop boards or drop panels for yacht interiors. These tips could be used for just about any aspect of fitting out a yacht interior.
The material I'm using is referred to as Medium Density Overlay or MDO. My local supplier carries a brand called Duraply.
My website: www.nomadboatbuilding.com
I post daily on Instagram: / nomadboatbuilding
Support these videos at Patereon: / nomadboatbuilding
Music: www.bensound.com/royalty-free-...
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really liked Vedic learned quite a bit
That pattern technique is awesome!
I watched this About a year ago and stored it in my memory banks, for a future date... Now I'm watching it again and putting it into use on my sailboat project. Thank you again for all your videos, so much to learn here!
I'm glad this stuff has been helpful to you. All the best with your projects.
Thanks for this video, excellent craftsmanship.
The pattern technique you demonstrate in the video saved my butt I today while I'm installing a closet! Thanks again!
It saves my butt all the time. Glad it was helpful to you.
Thanks so much for sharing this type of content! I look forward to applying this on my build!
I hope it helps.
Really useful information. Thank you. I have just bought a 1975 cabin cruiser here in UK and I am just embarking on a fairly comprehensive refit with the help of my 15 year old son. As novices we appreciate your easy style and clear guidance. Subscribed! Making a base for the centre section of a v birth has just gone to top of my list.
Paul Lewis I wish it could have been a little more detailed but the work and the filming are at complete odds with each other and I have to prioritize the work at this point. Glad you found it helpful.
I am re doing my whole interior of my boat your video has given me great ideas, great presentation. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Very helpful. I didn't know about MDO.
Brilliant. It is so difficult to find a person who can explain what is necessary without being tedious. I've searched everywhere to find boat interior building that is not epoxy. Hopefully you get the support to keep going. I'll pass your link around.
Marc Brik thanks Marc. I would be happy to make more videos on subject but I don't get a ton of interior jobs. Epoxy is incredible stuff but you certainly don't need to use it for everything.
Appreciate your sharing your skills with us. Thanks. ⛵
My pleasure.
Thanks very much for the awesome content. Super informative for a guy that will one day build a boat when his wife gets her car out of the garage!
Glad it was helpful!
wow this guy is great. very simple to the point with lots of detail and easy to understand. Thank you
My wife might argue some of those points but thank you just the same.
@@Nomadboatbuilding lol must be man talk she doesn't understand.
Good job on my former neighbour's boat!
Cool to see you using mdo for this. I've used it for a number of torsion box work benches with an oil /wax (osmol) finish and have been throughouly impressed with its durability. At one point I found a local lumber yard had factory second 2 sided mdo that was cheap. On side would have some minor dents in it that either could be worked around or put on the bad side. Wish I had more of it.
You can actually get panels made of just the paper and resin. Don't recall what it's called or where you can get it but it's pricey stuff. It's apparently really stable, enough that you could make exterior doors with the stuff.
I'm going to rebuild/redesign the interior of my 1974 24 foot Coronado Mark IV this winter.Thanks for the great insights and ideas!
Michael Jaqua I hope it helps. Thanks for watching.
It helps for sure! I am also looking into a new type of "plywood" that is actually made from plastic. That would be an ideal material to build with, assuming it has the strength needed. Mildew and rot resistant, and easy to clean.
@@pacervault3350 For sure. A lot of interior components don't need a ton of strength either, aside from structural bulkheads of course. The biggest thing to keep in mind is ventilation. Condensation in the nether regions can make a huge mess of all your stuff. I also recommend doing a lot of mockups with doorskin or cardboard to make sure you are getting the best layout and proportions figured out. The Francis Kinney edition of Skene's Elements of Yacht Design has some useful furniture proportions and Howard Chapelle's books Boatbuilding and Yacht Designing and Planning has excellent advice. Best of luck.
@@Nomadboatbuilding thanks so much!
I just did an oak companion way louvered drop board a couple of weeks ago. My first. Yes we gave yacht ers up in Iowa
hi everyone ,if anyone else wants to uncover boat plans for sale try BoatPlan.info ? Ive heard some super things about it and my work buddy got amazing results with it.
Never thought I would hear “yacht” and “budget” in the same sentence.
Well they are at polar ends of that sentence. Buy yes, I know what you mean.
Very good 👍 I use same techniques in building custom built-in cabinet making. I love mdo.
Ya. I wish the double sided was readily available.
@@Nomadboatbuilding mdo in general can be hard to source, and it varies insanely in price depending on the seller. Some box stores have or can get it. Menards in the US Midwest, for example, sells 1/2" Roseburg mdo for $45 but stock is hit/miss. One retail supplier charges 3x that price, nearly the price of Hydrotek BS1088 (for kraft-faced CDX, basically). A wholesale vendor 60 miles away charges $60 and stocks reliably. If you can't find 2s mdo, call a custom sign painting shop. Mdo was created for exterior signage, and sign shops probably have a unit or two.
I love mdo for boat interiors. It is light, stiff, as flat as veneer core ever is, and takes paint beautifully. It is first choice for a Herreshoff interior.
@@robertmcgovern8850 Up here in Canada we don't have quite so many sources for materials I think and at least for me the costs have bee relatively consistent however, it certainly isn't available at the big box stores, just the small contractor suppliers. Yes using it for a paint grade surface is where it really shines. Outshines the marine or cabinet grade stuff too. Now my use of Formica is an interesting detail to consider. It can allow you to use any exterior grade ply that you trust and get a good finish. I would even consider MDX (exterior grade MDO) if the weight isn't an issue. There is a yacht builder in Florida that uses the more flexible post-form formica as a smooth substrate for painting. He uses the formica here, about 1:20 in: ruclips.net/video/DfboLFGLN_o/видео.html. Yacht Shop Creations. Well worth watching for some really good building tricks. Tell Jimbo I said hi.
@@Nomadboatbuilding Heh -- I live and refit sailboats in Wyoming! Talk about 'poor access to marine-grade materials.' :) I'm a fan of HPL in its place, as well; its thermal stability becomes an issue tho, as does the tendency of contact cements to release in hot weather or after temperature cycling. We're taking our 30 footer to Baja MX, and it will need to be buttoned up on the hard for hurricane season. Titebond3 holds lammy pretty well, tho clamping is difficult w/out vacuum bag.
Useful tips. Nothing wrong with a biscuit and Fleetwood Mac while working on your boat.
your video is very inspiring
Thank you kindly Benjamin.
Thank you so much for this. Just what I need.
I'm glad you found it useful. Best of luck on your project.
@@Nomadboatbuilding very useful, i have a 48 year old 25' steel yacht and about to redo up for'ed. I have to change the angle of the dangle. The V berth is fine for 2 people laying feet first but I like to sleep with my head up the bow end, BUT its slightly down hill so it feels like blood rushing to my head so i have to raise that end a couple of inches.
bible basher I can understand if the boat is out of trim causing that situation but I've never understood why you would ever build berths anything but level. If you go square off your bulkheads it should work out. Bulkheads are pretty much always built plumb to the designed waterline. A very simple solution could be getting new cushions cut to make up the difference in level.
@@Nomadboatbuilding Thanks. You have just made me think of something that has never dawned on me; It could be my weight 120 kg weighing down the bow. It is a tiny boat. I think i will just make a wedge shaped mattress and save interfering with welded pipe frame. Last time she was on the land the levels were fine so I'M the culprit.
@@organicox80 HAHAHAHAHAHA - self awareness is a wonderful thing.
You could put vent holes in the longitudinal ply that traverses the bulk heads as those are not covered by cushions.
Good point.
@@Nomadboatbuilding ok thanks, am replacing all that on my one👍
Enjoyed your video, thank you. Do you happen to have anything on building cabinet doors?
klg65 xxglad you enjoyed it. I don't have anything on building doors just yet but I have a couple more boat interior jobs to do this year so maybe we'll find an opportunity to do so. I'll keep it in mind.
At the end you kind of apologize for the long discussion of material selection but I thought that was fascinating. I have a 1965 Alberg 35, so an interesting combination of fiberglass and wood. My long term project is rebuilding the forward cabin; a previous owner took out the v-berth and I'ld like to restore it so this was very helpful to me. I subscribed.
I'm glad you got something useful from that. This has been my top performing video so I should really do some more on this subject.
@@Nomadboatbuilding Speaking just for myself, I'd be interested in more videos on deconstructing/constructing boat interiors on old fiberglass boats. Guessing this isn't really your thing, but it is what a lot of us do. For example, as I mentioned, I'm going to reconstruct a vberth. What should be taken into account? This summer I am building a battery box for two batteries, fitting it under a seat. There are a lot of wonderful boat building videos but building a wooden boat from scratch is not what I do all the time; what I do all the time is improve my old fiberglass boat. Just a thought as you envision future projects.
I can see how that would have a wide appeal but working on glass boats drives me nuts. I just can’t stand how sloppy they are put together. I rarely work on a glass boat and every time I do I regret taking it on at some point.
@@Nomadboatbuilding Lol good point... although I think the Pearson brothers did a fair job on my Alberg 35. Best wishes
I’m sure they did. My issue is that the surfaces are always so unfair. It’s challenging to marry my work to them in a way that I am pleased with. I have the same issue with anything drywalled too.
Nice vid.
Any lightweight options to replace these panels, thinking of divinicell, costly but light I think
I think your best bet would be to glass over a thinner ply. Just one side is probably fine. The backside to put it tension I would say. Maybe also go to baltic birch for increased stiffness or rotary mahogany or standard fir to control cost. 1/4” mdo is probably available somewhere but certainly not in my area.
@@Nomadboatbuilding thanks for that.
Great video. I just starting doing my boat up and this really helps. But what wood do you use for the frame to sit the mdo on top?
That really depends on what materials are available to you. Around my area, Douglas fir or Alaskan yellow cedar would be good choices but anything that can survive in a marine environment would be fine. Mahogany, pine, ash and oak are other common boatbuilding woods. Interiors are typically fairly dry places except where condensation can be a factor so really just about anything will do the job.
Thats great thanks so much for your reply.m, so pine is the cheapest here in Ireland, so will now use that.
Do you mind me asking if i need to treat it with a varnish before using it?
@@78denty not a bad idea but linseed oil will do as well. Larch might be available to you as well. It's just as good.
hello new to your show .. I am looking in to building my own l live aboard boat,,and have I am on the hunt for good advice, your show if full of heplful dyi thanks for your time in making the show, and thanks for sharing..
richard y. Hey Richard. Welcome aboard. My best advice for building a live-aboard would be to mock up your interior components as much as possible to make sure the proportions and functionality are right. Emphasize ventilation in your storage areas and avoid soft goods from contacting the hull surfaces. Most of all, adapt a minimalist mindset. Nothing ruins a live-aboard experience faster than too much crap.
I have found a dream boat, well built quality. Done exterior but ripped out interior. How hard is it to build a good interior?
That’s a petty loaded question. The techniques I show in that video will come in handy throughout the project. All I can suggest is to keep things simple and it’s a really good idea to mock up the whole thing in cardboard or doorskin to make sure your ideas will work and fit together. Try to get a look at other boat interiors for ideas. Unfortunately, there aren’t many good books on the subject.
Cookies 😋🤣
Hi, do you remember what boat this was?. I just bought, what I think, is a fairly rare sailing yacht called a Van de Stadt legend and the layout from what I can see looks just the same
It’s a British offshore cruiser. Nicholson I believe. Could be totally wrong though.
It’s a British offshore cruiser. Nicholson I believe. Could be totally wrong though.
Thank you! I've lived on boats before but this is my first time living on one on my own and I'm going to need all the help I can get from RUclips to make a gloomy old boat looking less gloomy 🙂 I highly appreciate channels like yours.
Is there a reason other than aesthetics to add bungs to screwholes? The boards which cover the hollow interior bulkhead next to the companionway in my boat look really nice but I can't remove them without chipping the bungs out, which looks terrible. I suppose after the project I could add new bungs, but I wonder if there's a less permanent way to achieve a similar aesthetic.
No, adding bungs is purely aesthetic unless below the waterline on the exterior of your boat. Getting bungs out cleanly is an art in itself. I should do a video on it if the opportunity arrises. In a nutshell though, using a fine sharpish slotted screwdriver, drive into the bung in the centre in line with the grain. now move out board a smidge and do it again, aiming toward the first strike. move a smidge to the other side and do the same. You are tying to break out a small wedge without prying heavily over to the edge of the bung hole. You want to avoid touching those edges. Once you have a little piece broken out you keep working your way outboard on both sides breaking way more. You might need to use a sharp awl to pick away the last bits at the very edge but most should break free cleanly along all the end grain. If the bung is varnished over you can try softening the varnish by carefully dabbing paint stripper just onto the bung with a Q-tip. If you really mess up you could use finishing washers with your screws to hide the mess, or even fender washers with round headed screws. I've even taken the time to patch up messed up screw holes with diamond shaped dutchmen which then become a feature.
@@Nomadboatbuilding Thanks for explaining how to remove bungs. Very helpful. I'll try that this weekend. I like the idea of finishing washers. More utilitarian in appearance but much easier to work behind the panels when I need to. Keep up the good work on your channel. A lot of your videos aren't pertinent to my plastic boat but you explain things well and I appreciate the work you put into them.
@@ontheruntonowhere Well the thrust of my channel is obviously wooden boats but there are a lot of crossover concepts.
@@Nomadboatbuilding There are, please keep doing what you're doing. Great channel. :)
Ply can be "petrified" with West System and 404 filler, all sides especially the edges. Fill all voids, pits collect mold etc.
No paper or cardboard anything on an ocean boat, please. Those are just moisture traps and food for microbes.
House are built from termite food (cheap woods) and mold substrate (dry wall), not ocean boats.
SoloSailor sv that paper is infused with phenolic resin. I’ve tested well in fully exposed conditions. It holds up very well and if painted it’s as good if not better than a painted wood veneer face. In this case it has been varnished. I always seal my edges. With removable interior components like this, some voids are not a problem. This plywood product is made from the same materials as marine-grade fir ply but due to the possibility of core voids I don’t specifically recommend it for planking. While you could “petrify” this stuff with epoxy, you drive up the cost in time and materials. What we did here was substantially more durable than what was original to this boat. Mold is best controlled by good cleaning habits and good ventilation.
@@Nomadboatbuilding Good clarification, thank you.
SoloSailor sv you’re welcome. You’re concerns and comments were perfectly valid. I’m a real stickler for thinking about long term results. This is an older yacht and the owner lives on a student income so we have to find areas to save costs while achieving reliable solutions.
Companionway drop boards are actually called WASHBOARDS
There are often multiple terms for every part of a boat. I use the term washboards for removable closures in tall bulwarks.
Actually they are called lee cloths because they support you on the lee side of the berth.
Thank you, you are quite correct. That's what happens when you spend all your time holed up in a workshop by yourself. You forget the common terms for things. My shipwright mentor referred to all longitudinal wooden members as listing strips, regardless of what purpose they served, none of which were ever the thing that is actually a listing strip, but that's another story.
Anyone have a good book on sailboat interior construction?
I wish I could recommend on but I don’t feel a really good one has ever been published. "From a Bare Hull" by Maté has been a long time standard. I have always turned to Howard Chapelle's "Boatbuilding" for guidance but it is not fully comprehensive on that subject.
dropdoor
no audio?????
Check your audio settings. People have had this trouble before. I think there is a left/right channel issue with this video. It’s out of my control at this point. Maybe try a mono setting on your device.
Just use marine grade and varnish it!
Well sure you can do that, but I'm just trying to demonstrate that there are viable alternatives. Not everybody has ready access to marine grade materials and some of those varieties of marine ply are probably not from the most sustainable sources of raw timber.
Marine is the same manufacturing glue and species as good CDX plywood minus the voids. So why not use an alternative smooth product at half the cost!?!
I have checked many woodworking plan sites. I think the instructions from Woodprix are the best.
How about you PRIX quit spamming my videos!
some audio would make this a much better video!!!
There’s audio. Better check your settings. Not sure why it wasn’t coming through for you.
@@Nomadboatbuilding thanks, I did. Any video right before or after this one is fine, but this video I have to read lips!
Weird. I’ve had others make the same comment in the past. I just checked it. It has sound for me. I’ll have to see if this is a known phenomenon.
There are a number of videos on youtube that address sound issues. Perhaps one of them will solve your problem. There is more than one place where a mute setting can be engaged and it may depend on the browser you are using as well.
@@Nomadboatbuilding Thanks I'll take another look but your intro music plays but nothing else... Weird.
No audio lad can’t hear what your saying
That’s very strange. Another person just had the same comment yesterday about this same video. The audio is fine when I check it. Please make sure you haven’t muted the video by accident. There are more than one ways that a video can be muted depending on the browser too.
Are you hearing music?
I did some digging. For some reason I think RUclips delivered this video with the dialogue only on one stereo track that some people aren’t receiving. Switch ing your browser or computer to mono should fix it.
Too boring to watch
It’s not my favourite either oddly it’s also my most watched video. Go figure.
It's not boring in the slightest. If you are really interested in this kind of thing you'll like it