Let me preface this by saying that I know nothing, but I think you were on the right track with the master cylinder. It seems like you were saying that the biggest issue with the clutch pedal is that it's a very short amount of pedal motion between engaged and disengaged. You were able to adjust where that was taking place in the pedal throw, but it was still very little travel between on and off. The Rover one that is installed says 3/4 (.75") and the one Moss motors sells for the TR6 is .70". The larger bore cylinder is going to move more fluid with the same pedal travel (requiring less travel overall). Doing some sketchy math comparing cylinder volumes I think it's about 15% difference, which might be significant in the "feel". Thanks for all you videos, I appreciate them.
You are making me nostalgic for my ‘74 TR6, which I bought new from Ashley Motors on O’Connor Drive in Toronto. The colour was called Mallard, which was very close to BRG. I had to sell the car when I went back to college in 1975. I sure miss it. I replaced it with a used 1972 Volvo 142E. Also a good car, but it didn’t come close to the Triumph for fun!
Elin, I had the same issue with my wife's TR6. The problem was the shift fork had worn pins and the pin that goes through the shaft was partially broken and rotated. We found the problem when we pulled the transmission to replace the rear main seal. Once the bushing, shaft pin and fork pins were replaced it worked as should. -Robert
Hey Elin, I think if the master cylinder presses more volume, the slave cylinder moves faster a longer way and also sweeps over the pressure point of the clutch faster. Therefore, a cylinder with a smaller volume would be more sensitive.....that's my thought 🙂
Yes, you would have more control over the clutch, but here the problem is the travel is not long enough in my opinion. Or maybe the travel is not long enough for the pressure plate to release, which might also mean the pressure plate is not good. But what you say makes sense.
@@RustyBeauties To get clarity about the condition of the clutch, I would remove the slave cylinder as a test and determine the clutch travel by hand. Then you would know more about the condition and which actuation length is actually required.
Had the same issue with my '74 TR6 clutch when I bought it. Very quick engagement at full pedal travel and hard shifting. The slave pushrod had been cut and extended. I can't remember which hole it was mounted to on the fork arm. Initially I used twice as many nuts to space the slave cylinder out like you did and mounted the pushrod to the lowest fork arm hole, but eventually it just became unbearable to shift. I pulled the trans and the clutch plate had been installed backwards! Also the throw-out bearing release fork was loose on the clutch shaft - that pin was sheared but still catching enough to work. Moss sells an adjustable length slave pushrod (596-046), so after fixing all that it works great. I have the pushrod mounted to the lowest hole, so I need the most pedal travel, which is fine. It works on all three holes, not sure why there are options. I suppose it depends on what you prefer for a smooth engagement.
Hi Elin, I would just hazard a guess that the lever has three holes in order to readjust the pedal position as the plates wear. Maybe it'll come back for the transmission oil leak and you can have a closer look. I'm struggling with my clutch at the moment, the pedal gets stuck at the bottom if the stroke. And either leaves you stuck in gear or unable to engage!! First time it happened I was high up on a mountain pass at night fall and managed to disengage gear and just coasted down a few hundred feet to our village. After a bit of investigation it returned to normal position. A new master cylinder required. Gonna have to do it soon. Not a classic just a runabout Opel Astra and less than four years old too. Rant and digression over😅😅😅 Aaah, the great Paco de Lucia appears on your screen, you have great taste in music, just a shame that RUclips won't allow you to use it. Looking forward to seeing the tuning video!! Good luck from Spain!!
It seems you were pushing the thrustbearing too far if you moove the slave cylender rod to the bottom that may do the trick. It happened to me and this worked.
Hi Elin, on my TR3, the clutch slave cylinder plate sits on the other side of the flange. This way the rod will naturally be shorter and you can operate using the middle hole of the clutch shaft. I think that is the original mounting way. Cheers from France and keep on working on beauties!
Great video again Elin.. The clutch pedal issue must have been an annoying as I know your have the perfectionist gene.... I know it would have been irritating for me, but without going to the additional cost and effort of inspecting the internals of the clutch there's not much more you could have done. At least it works ! Looking forward to seeing what transpires with the tune-up ..
Check the crankshaft end float: if the thrust bearings are worn, they steal your clutch travel. You step on the clutch and the crank moves. I had a personal experience with this. Put a new clutch disc in there and it wouldn’t disengage on hot days. Had to change back to the old clutch.
I’m thinking that the clutch disc is to worn very thin and the pressure plate diaphragm spring fingers are raised up high as a result thus requiring a huge amount of travel to actually release the disc.
Re the clutch engage/release issue described, likely you are aware that increasing the master cylinder piston bore reduces clutch travel. From the Moss motors pic it seems the rover mc has a larger bore than the tr6 mc. ~15% larger.
Yes, larger bore leads to shorter pedal travel required to operate the slave the same distance that a smaller bore cylinder would do with a longer pedal travel. But if you use the same pedal travel, that would lead to longer travel on the slave.
When I first got my TR6 back in 1988, the previous owner had installed a kit, then installed the slave incorrectly. Check to see if the slave is bolted to the wrong side of the bracket.
That clutch might be a quirk. My brother bough a brand new TR4A in 1965. The clutch in that car was like an on and off button. It was difficult to get a smooth engagement and it was new like that from the factory.
Hi Elin Love your videos. On the Green TR6 I noticed some very effective door card clips, mine are useless. Do you know where I can source them, I have tried the obvious.
@@billgoin4004 oh cheers Bill, (I wonder why they prefer it that way?) - Typical Triumph though, they never altered the RHD wiper set up to correctly clear the screen on the LHD cars..
I laughed out loud when he said it fixed itself because I've got a spitfire that every once in a while will do some inexplicable thing.. I'll immediately go chasing after the problem and then suddenly it's gone and making me think I'm crazy. Glad it seems to be persistent with Triumph ha
Let me preface this by saying that I know nothing, but I think you were on the right track with the master cylinder. It seems like you were saying that the biggest issue with the clutch pedal is that it's a very short amount of pedal motion between engaged and disengaged. You were able to adjust where that was taking place in the pedal throw, but it was still very little travel between on and off. The Rover one that is installed says 3/4 (.75") and the one Moss motors sells for the TR6 is .70". The larger bore cylinder is going to move more fluid with the same pedal travel (requiring less travel overall). Doing some sketchy math comparing cylinder volumes I think it's about 15% difference, which might be significant in the "feel". Thanks for all you videos, I appreciate them.
You are making me nostalgic for my ‘74 TR6, which I bought new from Ashley Motors on O’Connor Drive in Toronto. The colour was called Mallard, which was very close to BRG. I had to sell the car when I went back to college in 1975. I sure miss it. I replaced it with a used 1972 Volvo 142E. Also a good car, but it didn’t come close to the Triumph for fun!
Elin, I had the same issue with my wife's TR6. The problem was the shift fork had worn pins and the pin that goes through the shaft was partially broken and rotated. We found the problem when we pulled the transmission to replace the rear main seal. Once the bushing, shaft pin and fork pins were replaced it worked as should.
-Robert
Hey Elin, I think if the master cylinder presses more volume, the slave cylinder moves faster a longer way and also sweeps over the pressure point of the clutch faster. Therefore, a cylinder with a smaller volume would be more sensitive.....that's my thought 🙂
Yes, you would have more control over the clutch, but here the problem is the travel is not long enough in my opinion. Or maybe the travel is not long enough for the pressure plate to release, which might also mean the pressure plate is not good. But what you say makes sense.
@@RustyBeauties To get clarity about the condition of the clutch, I would remove the slave cylinder as a test and determine the clutch travel by hand. Then you would know more about the condition and which actuation length is actually required.
BTW... I just bought a Rusty Beauties T-shirt. My way of saying "Thank You!" for such great content!!!!
Hello from Long Island, New York. Great videos!!!!
Had the same issue with my '74 TR6 clutch when I bought it. Very quick engagement at full pedal travel and hard shifting. The slave pushrod had been cut and extended. I can't remember which hole it was mounted to on the fork arm. Initially I used twice as many nuts to space the slave cylinder out like you did and mounted the pushrod to the lowest fork arm hole, but eventually it just became unbearable to shift.
I pulled the trans and the clutch plate had been installed backwards! Also the throw-out bearing release fork was loose on the clutch shaft - that pin was sheared but still catching enough to work. Moss sells an adjustable length slave pushrod (596-046), so after fixing all that it works great. I have the pushrod mounted to the lowest hole, so I need the most pedal travel, which is fine. It works on all three holes, not sure why there are options. I suppose it depends on what you prefer for a smooth engagement.
Hi Elin, I would just hazard a guess that the lever has three holes in order to readjust the pedal position as the plates wear. Maybe it'll come back for the transmission oil leak and you can have a closer look.
I'm struggling with my clutch at the moment, the pedal gets stuck at the bottom if the stroke. And either leaves you stuck in gear or unable to engage!! First time it happened I was high up on a mountain pass at night fall and managed to disengage gear and just coasted down a few hundred feet to our village. After a bit of investigation it returned to normal position. A new master cylinder required. Gonna have to do it soon. Not a classic just a runabout Opel Astra and less than four years old too. Rant and digression over😅😅😅
Aaah, the great Paco de Lucia appears on your screen, you have great taste in music, just a shame that RUclips won't allow you to use it.
Looking forward to seeing the tuning video!! Good luck from Spain!!
It seems you were pushing the thrustbearing too far if you moove the slave cylender rod to the bottom that may do the trick. It happened to me and this worked.
That was another well done and educational video series, thank you!
Hi Elin, on my TR3, the clutch slave cylinder plate sits on the other side of the flange. This way the rod will naturally be shorter and you can operate using the middle hole of the clutch shaft. I think that is the original mounting way. Cheers from France and keep on working on beauties!
On TR6 engine that is the only way to mont the plate. It doesn’t fit on the transmission side
NIce one and nice car. Thanks, Elin.
Great video again Elin.. The clutch pedal issue must have been an annoying as I know your have the perfectionist gene.... I know it would have been irritating for me, but without going to the additional cost and effort of inspecting the internals of the clutch there's not much more you could have done. At least it works ! Looking forward to seeing what transpires with the tune-up ..
Check the crankshaft end float: if the thrust bearings are worn, they steal your clutch travel. You step on the clutch and the crank moves. I had a personal experience with this. Put a new clutch disc in there and it wouldn’t disengage on hot days. Had to change back to the old clutch.
Yeah, checked that first, but it is OK
I’m thinking that the clutch disc is to worn very thin and the pressure plate diaphragm spring fingers are raised up high as a result thus requiring a huge amount of travel to actually release the disc.
Hey Graem! The clutch disc and pressure plate are brand new.
Re the clutch engage/release issue described, likely you are aware that increasing the master cylinder piston bore reduces clutch travel. From the Moss motors pic it seems the rover mc has a larger bore than the tr6 mc. ~15% larger.
Yes, larger bore leads to shorter pedal travel required to operate the slave the same distance that a smaller bore cylinder would do with a longer pedal travel. But if you use the same pedal travel, that would lead to longer travel on the slave.
When I first got my TR6 back in 1988, the previous owner had installed a kit, then installed the slave incorrectly. Check to see if the slave is bolted to the wrong side of the bracket.
Please ignore my suggestion above. I had not viewed the previous video which clearly shows the slave mounted on the correct side of the bracket.
That clutch might be a quirk. My brother bough a brand new TR4A in 1965. The clutch in that car was like an on and off button. It was difficult to get a smooth engagement and it was new like that from the factory.
High again - low again - high again!
Looks like a cracked clutch diaphragm !! (If it. Has. A diaphragm clutch )
Regards,
Sandy 🔧🏴
Hi Elin Love your videos. On the Green TR6 I noticed some very effective door card clips, mine are useless. Do you know where I can source them, I have tried the obvious.
Exchange the position of the wipers
Hi Bill, what do you mean regarding the wipers? (I’m also interested)..
@@philtucker1224 they need to be switched, the one with the bend needs to be on the right.
@@billgoin4004 oh cheers Bill, (I wonder why they prefer it that way?) - Typical Triumph though, they never altered the RHD wiper set up to correctly clear the screen on the LHD cars..
@@philtucker1224 The bend is to clear the air vent for the heater when it is open.
Yes, you are right, someone else also pointed that. I didn't pay attention. Thanks!
Conifer Green from the 60s I think…
It fixed itself? It's a Triumph thing, nobody understands.
Must be a Triumph thing, my MG has never fixed itself, think I’ll sell it and get a TR 😊
@@martinhibbert1428 There is no implied warranty in the above statement.
I laughed out loud when he said it fixed itself because I've got a spitfire that every once in a while will do some inexplicable thing.. I'll immediately go chasing after the problem and then suddenly it's gone and making me think I'm crazy. Glad it seems to be persistent with Triumph ha
@@mcloviinz I have a Spitfire as well, but it's consistently broken.