Thanks for the comment. I’ve done a few interviews with Tyler on the podcast so check those out, and he also has some stuff on his IG feed that covers leverage of pulley attachments and arm length 💪
Is it really that interesting? You can literally do nothing to change anything about it, you got no way of measuring it yourself. No matter where you fall on the spectrum you'll likely not adapt your training at all unless you're a fully developed elite athlete trying to push it to human limits.
I didnt fully understand the reasoning behind not being able to get stronger in a climbing gym. Why would I only stick to climbing the same thing in a climbing gym, but not outdoors?
It is difficult to target weaknesses if you only stay in your gym environment. Every gym is going to have a setting style bias, often it is not very finger intensive for the safety and enjoyment of the sets. In a general sense you want to be pushing into the realm of discomfort to make improvements, but there just isn’t enough specific stimulus to promote growth if you stay in your lane and only climbs sets. I think that is why you see a lot of people make large gains when they add board climbing or like Tyler is saying, an intentional finger loading program. There is a new emphasis that specifically trains your body that you weren’t able to get from just gym sets.
Keep in mind how specific skill and strength is. I have a similar example to the one he gave at the end. I had a climbing partner who would climb very similar sport and boulder grades to me in the gym. Yet, he had sent grades that seemed out of my range outside, how could this be? Well, he showed up and put the time into those outdoor projects and trained specifically for them. He made the adaptations required to do the climbs because strength and skill is highly specific. I realized this when he hopped on a climb I have been projecting and am close on. He could barely do any moves on it. I thought he was just better than me on rock but I realized that I had gotten highly specific to that climb and style and he hadn’t yet, our roles reversed in that instance. I’ve heard Aidan Roberts talk about this a lot, he has said something like: consider what the project demands and work backwards from there to dictate your training.
I think the idea is that a lot of people get comfortable climbing in a gym and tend to stick to a routine maybe even without fully realizing it. I think the same thing does happen outside as well but maybe a little more common in a comfortable hangout like a gym.
Listen to Tyler Nelsons Pro Clinic and Level Up Your Finger Strength Training ! ➡️ www.patreon.com/posts/pro-clinic-power-74741701
Leverage is a concept that isn't talked much in climbing content. It would be great if there was an explainer on that, as it's not intuitive.
Thanks for the comment. I’ve done a few interviews with Tyler on the podcast so check those out, and he also has some stuff on his IG feed that covers leverage of pulley attachments and arm length 💪
You mean climbing videos
Is it really that interesting? You can literally do nothing to change anything about it, you got no way of measuring it yourself. No matter where you fall on the spectrum you'll likely not adapt your training at all unless you're a fully developed elite athlete trying to push it to human limits.
I platoed at around V3, but I am kind of OK with that.
@jiggyb2640 I do have fun. But I am a bit overweight and dieting to lose 10 kilos is not fun.
plenty of very cool V3s out there to climb
@@dietrootbeer_ the hardest thing in climbing is finding somebody to belay you :)
Happiness and enjoyment are such underrated metrics for performance ❤
I was too for a while, then I started doing more strength training(and got new shoes) and started climbing
Huge fan of your content
Oh man thanks so much! I’m working harrrrd over here. How’s your training and climbing going?
You mean videos
I didnt fully understand the reasoning behind not being able to get stronger in a climbing gym. Why would I only stick to climbing the same thing in a climbing gym, but not outdoors?
It is difficult to target weaknesses if you only stay in your gym environment. Every gym is going to have a setting style bias, often it is not very finger intensive for the safety and enjoyment of the sets. In a general sense you want to be pushing into the realm of discomfort to make improvements, but there just isn’t enough specific stimulus to promote growth if you stay in your lane and only climbs sets. I think that is why you see a lot of people make large gains when they add board climbing or like Tyler is saying, an intentional finger loading program. There is a new emphasis that specifically trains your body that you weren’t able to get from just gym sets.
Keep in mind how specific skill and strength is. I have a similar example to the one he gave at the end. I had a climbing partner who would climb very similar sport and boulder grades to me in the gym. Yet, he had sent grades that seemed out of my range outside, how could this be? Well, he showed up and put the time into those outdoor projects and trained specifically for them. He made the adaptations required to do the climbs because strength and skill is highly specific. I realized this when he hopped on a climb I have been projecting and am close on. He could barely do any moves on it. I thought he was just better than me on rock but I realized that I had gotten highly specific to that climb and style and he hadn’t yet, our roles reversed in that instance. I’ve heard Aidan Roberts talk about this a lot, he has said something like: consider what the project demands and work backwards from there to dictate your training.
You cant get good in a gym, only stronger
I think the idea is that a lot of people get comfortable climbing in a gym and tend to stick to a routine maybe even without fully realizing it. I think the same thing does happen outside as well but maybe a little more common in a comfortable hangout like a gym.