:::: E-BOOK AVAILABLE!!! :::: If you need help installing your ACR, check out our ebook on our website perfectfitboating.com/all-products We walk you through the process step by step with diagrams and pictures. You can use this video as a reference as well! Thank you everyone!
Hey sorry about that! For some reason the link on RUclips stays loading. If you type in our site on your browser separately it should work fine. Let us know! Try this one: perfectfitboating.com/all-products
😅Found so many wiring issues left over from previous owner, now i get to redo all the wiring. This helped tremendously, thank you so much for making this video!
You got it brother! I’ve searched and searched RUclips for videos and they’re some good ones out there but I figured I’d make a real simplified and in depth step by step version for people like myself that need to see it over and over again. Our next video will probably be next week and it’s wiring for the rest of the appliances (nav lights, bilge, switches etc) and it’ll be as in depth as this one! Thanks for the positivity and I’m glad the video helped! 🍻🤙
@perfectfitboating I basically came here to say what everyone else already has. Excellent instructional video with plenty of detail. Thanks for presenting this!
Thank you so much for the comment and the kind words! We tried to give as much info as we could of just relevant information. And we tried to explain it so that anyone could understand! Thanks again! 🤙
I'm restoring a boat so i need the "how to" mount an outboard, install steering wheel and cables and install Garmin etc.... LOL thanks again @@perfectfitboating
@grattanh1 unfortunately I don’t have those videos 🤣 we had the dealer mount our Suzuki. But RUclips is a great source you’ll find plenty of vids. Good luck with that restore you should post it on RUclips. We love to watch restore projects!🤙
Bro - Sincerely, thought your video was Excellent! You could tell you had done your homework. You were redundant where you needed to be redundant. All the places in the video where I normally would have rewound it to make sure I understood correctly... there you are; repeating what you just said but adding other key thoughts to draw a clearer picture! It is apparent you care about what you are doing-using quality parts, taking precautions where necessary. I don't normally comment on videos, but I am trying to be better at telling people when they have done a good job... and in my opinion, I thought you put together a great f-ing video. It was exactly what I was looking for & I really enjoyed it. I got a lot out of it and I wanted you to know! Thank you bro! Tama o le u'a me'a a'asa! Sekiaaaaaa le mea!
My brother, thank you so much for the kind words. I’m truly humbled by them. I’m also so happy that the video was able to help you. My goal was to help people like you were just like me when i started and was researching on how to do it. I appreciate you commenting and showing your support! Thank you so much! 🤙🛥️🌊
Extremely helpful! I am pretty dyslexic and elec/power/wiring has never been my friend, so I also need to see it, hear it, repeat it, take a picture of it, do it, and usually bleed or get zapped a couple times before I get something. Feels much less daunting and complicated though already, after watching once but will watch this a couple more times to 'sink' in better, but again very intuitive and helpful, this might even keep me out of the walk in clinic when I dig into the wires on mine this week... Thanks bro.
Hey Paul thank you so much for the comment! Anytime I can keep someone out of a hospital or clinic is a win for me 🤣. I tried my best to be in depth because just like you, I need to let things sink in until it clicks. If you haven’t seen our other video on wiring the rest of the boat, you might find that one helpful as well. If you have any questions just shoot us an email! 🤙🍻
Nice work! When running the main feeds to the the fuse block, the feeds can approach the fuse block from the sides, making a slightly cleaner installation.
Youre very welcome Caleb! I’m glad the video was able to help you out. We have an ebook coming out this week that will help you in even more detail. I’ll comment and update on here when it’s available! Thanks for the comment brother! 🤙
Great job my friend you’ve done a fantastic job on all of that and it’s great to be thorough and read over your instructions and follow them. I enjoyed listening to you and watching your video.
Thanks so much for getting back to me so fast. I have a Grady also with the ping pong ball scuppers. You said you used plastic for through the transom . What make are they? Also I just dis one of my deck plates today . It came out great. Thanks for the great video on that.
No problem! Glad I could help. If I remember right they were perko. We have the two little scuppers on each side I’m not sure if the ping pong ball will work since both holes are so close together. I might just go with the flap that covers the scupper. Does it really help keep water from coming in on your boat? That’s so great to hear you did your deck plate! Not too difficult of a job I’d say! Good on you for tackling that job! 🤙🛥️🌊
Right on! Awesome job , it turned out great and those ACR setups are sweet! You’ve inspired me to attempt a proper and clean wiring job on my next build! 👊🏼 Thank you for sharing amigo!
Thanks for always bringing the positivity brotha! We gotta get together soon and make some vids! Looking forward to what video you got cooking! I know it’s gonna be epic! 🤙🍻
Nice job I suggest put wire numbers at terminal or connection point and make yourself a drawing. Much easier to troubleshoot down the road. Should you have fused both house batteries at the battery? Thank you
Thanks so much for the comment! Since then, we’ve marked and label each wire, if not it would be a nightmare down the road. You are 100% correct. Both house and start batteries are fused going to the acr as per the acr instructions. I believe they’re 80 amp fuses if I remember right. I think I mention the amps in the video. If I’m not mistaken, fusing the batteries to the regular switch is not necessary as per abyc. I think you’d need a crazy high amp fuse because cranking the motor would blow most fuses. Thanks for the comment! 🍻
Thank you so much for the feedback Will! We have one video coming up every week for the next four weeks! We’ve been up to a lot of upgrades and we hope everyone enjoys the content! 🍻
Great job with laying out all the materials you are using in the beginning. Nice and neat installation. We opted for the Blue Sea ACR system as well. Looking forward to seeing each other on the water this summer, brother!
Thank you! We thought the acr was gonna make things easier. It’s either on/off or combine. I don’t want to have to remember to switch to one battery or the other! We’re looking forward to it man! 🍻
I'm the same way brother. I've researched, drawn out on a dry erase board, watch several youtube presentations, talk to a boating friend who happens to be an OSHA Rep for approval for a days about installing a 2nd battery. This has been the best by far and extremely helpful. Learned about the ACR and 80A fuse block. Gotta add that to my dry erase board rendering.. 😁 Thanks..
Thank you so much brotha! My mind works the same way. I think it’s just that I second guess myself and want it to work right! Dry erase board is smart! I would draw it on paper 🤣. Once It clicks, i completely understand the process! It just takes all those steps! Glad this video helped man check out the video after this one about wiring everything else. That one might help too! Cheers and good luck with your project. If you need help shoot me an email and I’ll be happy to help! 🤙🍻
Thanks so much man we really appreciate it! We’re trying our best to bring out some educational and entertaining content. The next one is gonna be pretty cool. Transom was ripped out and redone! Thanks for the kind words my man! 🤙🍻
@perfectfitboating I do something a little different when attaching lug connectors to 2-4G wire. Instead of crimping the connector, I'll hold the connector with vice grips, drop solder inside the insert, , then slide stripped wire into the connector. Did it when I added a 2nd battery to m 2008 Chevy 3500 dually. Rock solid, no issues.......
Great job !!...im currently adding a 2nd battery and 2nd bilge pump, and you inspired me to think about tackling the current mess of wires in my cabin (from prev owner)
Thanks Steve we appreciate that! I hope this video will help make it easier for you. Check out the latest video we put out on wiring the rest of the boat! We also do the bilge! 🤙
@perfectfitboating finished my project successfully with your help. Ran into a problem recently with an old wire burning up in the Bilge area. Not sure yet what the wire was too, but I believe it was from the original Bilge pump and/or saltwater pump, but it created a big mess of burned wires that I now have to figure out. Ugghhh. Looks like I'll be watching your vid again and redo everything
Wiring an already wired boat can be frustrating! Good luck with that Steve hope the video helps! We have an ebook coming out this week that might help! I’ll keep it posted in a pin comment in the comment section! Good luck!🤙
Gary, thank you so much for watching! When we did the transom on this boat, we used the plastic thru hulls. We didn’t want to buy the tool that’s used to bevel the edge and we were on a time crunch to get the motor mounted. They worked just fine and have held up without any issues. The other Grady transom we did had plastic scuppers installed as well. I think what I’m going to do in addition to these thruhulls is the ping pong scupper or the flap. Both bolt to the outside of the scupper and allow water to drain but don’t allow water to get in. 🌊🤙🛥️
Thank you! Yeah it’s overkill. But we scored that cable for $10 at the nautical flea market so we figured we’d use it. Sea trial coming soon! Thanks for the positive comments! 🍻
Thank you so much for this, I am going to add some nav lights and a stern light as well as power my engine 9.9 mercury on my gheenoe, Can I do this with one battery, I may add a trolling motor later
Thank you so much my friend! We try to be as thorough as possible so if anyone has a similar project, they might gain the confidence to tackle it just from watching our videos! We really appreciate the support! 🤙
Hola desde España (Cádiz). Un cordial saludo y enhorabuena por mostrar este proyecto en video, el cual estoy siguiendo para la instalación de mi barco. El video está muy bien explicado. Espero que en los siguientes videos llegues hasta el final. Gracias y enhorabuena.
Muchas gracias por el apoyo Emiliano! Me alegro que el video te e ayudado! Tengo otro video mostrándole el mismo proyecto. Tal vez ese te ayuda también! Gracias por el comentario! 🤙
Great video. Remember, redundancy is next to godliness? One comment from my install of 120A ACR, include the switch in the fused ground wire that activates the ACR otherwise you can drain your start battery.
@@perfectfitboating My current problem involves which side of the ACR to connect the alternator. There is something called ACR Cycling with the standard wiring with an outboard which charges the start battery first. There seems to be occasions when a motor running at low speeds (eg when trawling)
I gotta look into that. We don’t keep our boat in the water we trailer and charge the batteries at home. I’d be concerned about longer trips where we’d be staying out for a few days. Thanks for the info🤙
I think in the situation you have a bigger outboard whose alternator amperage is CLOSER to the fuse range of 80-20. Your outboard cranks out 17 amps so 80amp fuse would be sufficient. If I remember reading correctly, there’s spikes in amperage’s when cranking but it’s the sustained draw of amperage while cranking that important. Blue sea systems recommends 80-100 amp fuse but doesn’t tell you why such a big difference. The kit is for a 65amp max alternator which is most bigger and smaller outboards. My guess for having the 80-100 amp fuses is the spike of amperage draw on crank. For example, a Yamaha f300 alternator is 70amps. I’d use the higher end of the recommended fuses (100amps). They make other kits for larger motors. The next up is a 120 amp alternator kit. And those have even bigger requirements such as fuses and wire sizes. You’ll be just fine with your f70 and an 80 amp fuse.
Which voltage should I choose for a trimeran? 12, 24, 36 or 48? If it has twin 2000hp diesels and 5 800kw outboards what sort of capacity should the batteries have? Is lithium the lightest? Thanks Philip
That’s above my pay grade. I know my buddies 70ft sport fish had a 24volt system. Lithium is the lightest but you have to make sure you have the right dc to dc chargers to charge it.
Greetings from Europe👋Great and very informative video. I am planning to install a house battery as well on my own. I have no experience of any installation.But I have a question about the terminal fuse. If ACR is rated for 65 A why do we need to have an 80 A terminal fuse but not 60 A for example. 60 A fuse will trip out before ACR burns out. As far I understand those 80 A fuses are to protect ACR.
Hey there! You are correct! Those fuses are there for the ACR just in case. But the rating is recommended by blue sea systems as so. If I remember right, they recommend 80-100 amp fuse in the instructions and I believe it’s for the spikes in current.🤙
Question: Why use a deep cycle for the house? I’m planning on running two group 24’s in parallel. Both identical batteries. Both with 1000 CA and 130a reserve capacity. One for the motor one for the house. But they are both “cranking batteries”
That’s a good question. You could do that. But, you’d want a house or deep cycle battery to run your accessories while at anchor, or when you have the motor turned off. Think of cranking batteries like a sprinter and deep cycle batteries like a marathon runner. They’re meant to handle that load over a long period of time. If you have a single motor, that many cranking amps isn’t really necessary. Different batteries have different jobs that’s all. Hope they helps.🤙
I’m researching that just now and it doesn’t seem like it’s possible unless you have an isolator or a dc to dc charger. Also, some motor manufacturers like Suzuki recommend lead acid only.
Not a big deal but I’d recommend getting a circuit breaker over 30. Might not need it now but basically will save you from having to do it in the future
Hey Brad! That’s a good tip. As the boat sits now it’s ok with the 30 amp but once we upgrade the gps and add another wash down, we’re. Definitely going to up that breaker! 🤙
Good video. Where did you get your wiring diagrams? Is that only for the ACR install? I have 2 start batteries and 2 house batteries (in parallel)and 2 on-off switches. Do I just double what you're doing?
Thank you so much! You can go on blue sea systems website and the diagrams are there to view. For your case, you don’t have to double it. You’d run it the same as a 2 battery setup. The cables that connect the battery to the acr will have the fuses the same way a 2 battery kit does.
Hi great video, I got the bigger version from blue seas add a battery kit here recently and I noticed you ran 2/0 cable to your mini ACR. My question is, if I too am running 2/0 cable can I also use a 90 Amp fuse? Just curious and thanks again for the great content!!
Hey buddy thank you for the comment and thanks for watching! In your add a battery kit, it might be hard to find, but it will tell you the required fuse you need. And it’s going to be a range. So for the mini kit, if I remember right, it was 80-100 range. Not sure what it is on the larger kit. Edit: just checked and this is what it states: cable size to meet ratings - 4/0 AWG (120mm²)† 100-125 amp fuse You can find it on the blue sea systems site it’s a pdf file under the “add a battery 7650 kit” 🤙
Thanks for the comment! We appreciate it. Not trying to downplay the dangerous nature of electricity. But, 12v systems are generally harmless. If this was your typical 110v house system that’s a different story. Either way, precaution should be taken when dealing with any type of live wire so you’re right! 🤙
Looks like a good instal, but why did you bypassthe fuse with the second battery cable? voids the point of rhe fuse! you need fuses on the leads to the switch too.
Thanks for the comment. There are 4 positive cables coming from both batteries. Both batteries have one positive cable that goes to the switch (unfused) and 1 going to the acr which is fused. This is according to the blue sea systems and any other battery switch setup. The fuse you would need for these would be huge. You can put one in but it’s not required. 👍
Amazing video!!! Glad I found this video we start redoing the Harness in our boat . Thank you for make it so Simple I’ll do it same way your doing it. I just wondering about the gauges?
Hey Elias! Thank you for the comment! I hope your project goes smooth and I’m glad our video can help. Depending on the motor you have, the gauges can be a little trickier. Usually each motor has a harness and from there you get your gauge power, tilt and trim, tach voltage etc. If you search “boat gauge wiring” tons of good videos come up! 🤙
@@perfectfitboating Thanks man another question i see something in the diagram says optional switch for no current drain when is storage ill keep the boat in water i want to make sure everything will be alright
Yes there’s more to read up on in the manual. I didn’t mess with that option because we plan on installing a charger on the boat to not worry about the battery discharging from the acr drawing current.
Amazing! One more thing ones I install the arc the kill switch still can cut power to the front fuse box or not? If not I can put my automatic beilge pump direct to the battery so when I’m not at the boat will works automatic. Like I say the boat will be sit in the water for few days
Great video .. greetings from the Netherlands 🇳🇱.. what determines the amp size or type of ACR .. ? Or are ACR for any battery.. . I am going to wire a boat myself and I have no idea what I am doing 😂. But RUclips is great .. gonna watch Your other videos now ⚓️
Thank you Pablo! The determining factor would be the motors alternator output. They sell acr’s in 65amp and 120amp versions. The version in my video is a 65amp since my outboard doesn’t produce but 50 amps I believe. RUclips is a great place to learn and hopefully this video helps you. I made it for people like myself who had no idea. Our latest video shows the rest of the wiring so that one might help you too! Thanks for the support Pablo! Stay warm up there! 🍻
Awesome Video mate! You covered everything, and so easy to understand. Will use this to help wire my boat for sure. Can I ask, do you think the Blue Seas Mini ACR is ok for a Yamaha F70? Or would you recommend the full size?
Hi @@perfectfitboating , I purchased the eBook and it has certainly helped me break down this whole project, thank you! I have a couple questions if you dont mind me asking: 1 - Do you think the Negative Busbar that the Batteries/ACR connects to, needs to be 250-300 Amps as per your booklet? Or is 100-150 ok? Ive hadded up my devices and purchased a 50AMP breaker. 2. In your Ebook, it says the inline fuse to ground the ACR requires a 1 AMP blade fuse, in the Diagram at the back of the booklet it says 10amp. I'm assuming this should be 10amp? Thanks so much
@@TheFattestManAlive for your 70 in sure that bus bar is perfectly fine! As far as the fuse for the acr ground goes… make sure the diagram youre looking at is for the M-acr. That ground wire fuse is 100% a 1 amp fuse. The “si-acr might take a 10amp. When I did a quick search online, I saw the 10amp fuse but it was only on the si-acr and not the mini. Hope that helps. If anything shoot me an email and I can send you the diagram from blue seas. Thank you so much for supporting our channel brother! 🤙
Thank you @@perfectfitboating.. you give good info and have helped me with my dumb questions haha Also just to clarify your busbar comment, did you mean the 100-150 is enough?
I have a 2002 aluminum craft bass boat with a Yamaha 130TLRQ I pick up this rig has been setting up for 7 years. The wiring harness under the console is history need to install new gauges but can’t find a wiring diagram for this year or model.
Should be able to get a harness diagram online for that year. Then you can match the color wires of the gauges to the harness. Are the gauges digital or analog?
It would work just fine actually. The acr can sense when either battery is full and sends the charge to the battery in need. So if your house battery is full, it would just stop sending charge to that house battery. Thank you for the comment! 🤙
@perfectfitboating Ok great! I purchased the Noco 2 bank charger to install up front on my lithium trolling motor batteries and using a minnkota 2 bank charger on the rear Agm starter and lead acid deep cycle batteries.
@@perfectfitboating isn’t there supposed to be two 16 awg wires? One for ground and the other says si? I believe coming from ignition? Thank you for quick response! You’re the man!
Yes that’s right there’s two wires. The ground and the si wire that goes to ignition. If I remember correctly that wire is optional. I did not wire it up I left it open! 🤙
There’s no rule that says you can’t. But it’s recommended to have it as close to appliance as possible. Because what youre protecting is the wire. If you have the breaker up in the cabin for example, you have 15-20 feet of unprotected wire. So that breaker protects that long run of wire up to the helm! 🍻
Hey there thanks for the comment! It’s overkill tbh. It’s what we had. We could’ve used 6awg and been just fine. Checkout our latest video where we wired another acr where we used 6awg wire! 🤙
The fuse block gets power from the switch which has the circuit breaker in between (next to the switch). The circuit breaker I used is a 30 amp. I determined that by adding up all the appliances ( pumps, lights, aerator) amperage’s. So if I was to use all of the appliances at once (which no one ever does) you should be around that amperage for the fuse. It’s not really determined by the motor. If you plan to run more appliances like more lights or more live wells you might need a larger fuse and you’d probably want to increase size of the wire to the fuse block. I hope this helps! 🤙
Hey bean! Thank you for the comment! I want to say that in parts alone, batteries, cables, switches, lights etc. One would spend a minimum of about $1,300. Depends on the quality of your parts. For example, our underwater lights were from Amazon $22 whereas lumitec lights can run $300+. Mine might last 2 years but I can buy a dozen before I get to the cost of the lumitec. We didn’t skimp on the fuse block or the acr and switch or any of the fuses on the batteries. The batteries were basic marine and they were about $120 each. Lithium batteries can be 10x that cost. So in our case (budget) I’d say we did it for around 1200-1300. As far as labor goes, any marina or mobile marine electrician will charge a minimum of $125 an hour. It took me 5 days to do the entire wiring including the accessories. Nothing ever goes easy on an old boat 🤣 hope that helps answer your question! 🤙
It’s definitely time consuming. Especially if you’ve never done it before because you want it to be done right. But I’ll tell you what, I know how everything works and where everything is. And I have peace of mind. Check out my other video on wiring the rest of the boat. Hopefully it’ll help you get a jumpstart on your project! It’s worth it! Let me know how it turns out man good luck!🤙
Why install an 80A terminal block fuse when the max rating on the ACR is 65A.? I'm no electrician just curious since I'm rewiring my KW 1720 for night time shrimping/fishing ease
Hey there thanks for the comment. The instructions for the blue sea systems acr kit calls for a fuse with a 75-90amp rating for less than or equal to 60 charging amps. Now I’m not sure why exactly they require it but I tried to follow the instructions as close as I could. Hope they helps! 🍻
@@perfectfitboating Thank you brother, I'm itemizing parts right this very second. Thank you for making such a detailed video and this incredibly quick response...I wish my KW 1720 had all of that space like you have, LOL
@@Beachnative42 you got it my man! If you need extra help just write me an email I’ll be happy to help! And yeah this boat has a lot of storage and space! But on a boat, you can never have enough! lol 🍻
Yes, it does stay on and flashes every 15 seconds. Eventually it can drain the battery if it’s sitting too long without starting the motor. If I know the boat will sit I’ll disconnect the power cable from the battery. 🍻
Thanks for the comment. I added up the amperage of all the instruments and appliances (pumps, lights etc). It gave me right around 28 amps or so. So I chose 30 amps for the breaker. I’m never going to have everything running at one time but if I did I’d have just enough with the 30 amp fuse. The breaker is to protect the WIRE in case of a short. Make sure you have the right awg cable for the length of the run of wire and for the amperage you are pulling. Hope that helps! 🍻
@@perfectfitboating what’s the point of the circuit breaker if each individual accessory has a fuse on it on the fuse panel box? I’m just curious, because it seems redundant. I’m also new to this so I’m genuinely asking.
@@friday14fs The point of the circuit breaker is to protect the line in between the circuit breaker and the fuse block. If there was a short in that wire and you don’t have a fuse or a breaker in between, that wire could potentially catch fire. The fuses on the fuse block protect the lines from the instrument/appliance to the fuse block.
Nice! Hopefully this video helps you out! Check out our other video on how to wire all your lights, bilge pumps etc. That one might help too! Good luck and thank you for the comment!🙌
@sterlingobando225 I only put the switch on combine if my starter battery is low on voltage and can’t start the motor. Other than that, I leave it on 1 (starter battery) and go about my day. The acr charges both once the motor is running. 🍻
Hey thanks for the comment! That wire is optional. Also during the time of this video I don’t think we had a finalized motor on the boat. Since then we added a motor and the wire! 🤙
I just installed one of these. I'm getting 12v across poles 1 and 1 (which is my start batt + and thebwire going to the starter) with the switch in the off position. Is that normal?
Hey Craig! Thanks for the comment! So position one would be the connection to the motor and the other position one would be the starter battery. If you have the switch in off I’m almost certain that it should not get a reading of any kind as it is supposed to interrupt everything including the starting off the motor. I’m gonna double check mine tomorrow though and get back to you because if you do have power then you should be able to start the motor and that defies the purpose of the switch.
Wassup!? Thanks for the comment! That’s a great question. After looking at the diagram, at first I thought it didn’t matter. But the switch has off/on/Both positions. I’m thinking when the switch is turned to on, it makes a circuit with position 1 (starter battery). If you were to switch positions, it would then be using the house battery for cranking and the starter battery to run power to the fuse block. I’m not 100% sure but I believe this to be the case. Let me know if that makes sense.
Hi I noticed that as soon you installed all the cables the acr started to blink 3 times which means that’s under voltage isolation , I have my doing the same last time I was using the boat that even with the engine on wasn’t charging the house battery so the house battery died , any suggestion?
I noticed that also when I first installed it. If I remember correctly, there a delay before it starts to blink every 15 seconds. Last week I had the same issue you’re speaking about and it turned out to be a bad battery that wouldn’t hold a charge. Check and see if that’s your problem. Hope that helps!
@@perfectfitboating thanks I don’t think that is the battery due to and battery check system that I have in that battery that allows me to see the battery % and I just charged it in the morning and still full of charge and the acr still blinking 3 time I think that should be a problem with the acr
@Hookthatfish if the battery is good then I think youre right. Could be the acr. double check connections and fuses in case but it seems it might be the acr.
I’ll preface my response with this statement. The electrical on a boat should never be taken lightheartedly. Working with 12v system isn’t the same as working on your house where it might be 120v or even 220v where it can kill you. In this video I ran the positive wires first and left the negative wires for last. And you are correct, you could most definitely build the circuit first then connect to the battery. Thanks for the comment! 🤙
I am in desperate need of some guidance for my pontoon. I have 5 batteries total. I want to make sure they are all hooked up correctly. I have 4 things but possible 5th that’ll require power. I have one Pecko 2 way switch already installed - 1, 2, All and OFF. I also have 2 onboard battery chargers. 1 is 2 bank and 1 is a 3 Bank. I can send pics or specs if needed. 1. Motor/ignition 2. Trolling motor 80lb thrust 3. Garmin Depth Finder 4. 8 speaker w 2 12” subs stereo 5. Possible re-hook up bilge pump Main ? Is how to hook up all of these appropriately if you can give any advice I would be forever grateful!
That switch keeps them isolated in the on and off positions. It has an emergency position to combine them. The ACR is automatic based on charging voltage. Plus the house circuits have a main breaker which could be open or closed. So - I think he's got it covered.
:::: E-BOOK AVAILABLE!!! ::::
If you need help installing your ACR, check out our ebook on our website
perfectfitboating.com/all-products
We walk you through the process step by step with diagrams and pictures. You can use this video as a reference as well! Thank you everyone!
@@Nick-un3zw thank you so much Nick!
The link will not work for me
Hey sorry about that! For some reason the link on RUclips stays loading. If you type in our site on your browser separately it should work fine. Let us know! Try this one: perfectfitboating.com/all-products
Straight to the point, very good video quality, no time wasted. Very good. This is the way all "How To" videos should be done.
Thank you Bill! We appreciate that! We tried to be as thorough as possible! 🍻
😅Found so many wiring issues left over from previous owner, now i get to redo all the wiring. This helped tremendously, thank you so much for making this video!
You got it brother! I’ve searched and searched RUclips for videos and they’re some good ones out there but I figured I’d make a real simplified and in depth step by step version for people like myself that need to see it over and over again. Our next video will probably be next week and it’s wiring for the rest of the appliances (nav lights, bilge, switches etc) and it’ll be as in depth as this one! Thanks for the positivity and I’m glad the video helped! 🍻🤙
@perfectfitboating I basically came here to say what everyone else already has. Excellent instructional video with plenty of detail. Thanks for presenting this!
Thanks for taking the time to comment Dave! We really appreciate every comment and every viewer! 🤙
Great video!!! No prolonged conversations and delays, great info. Great work.
Thank you so much for the comment and the kind words! We tried to give as much info as we could of just relevant information. And we tried to explain it so that anyone could understand! Thanks again! 🤙
I'm restoring a boat so i need the "how to" mount an outboard, install steering wheel and cables and install Garmin etc.... LOL thanks again
@@perfectfitboating
@grattanh1 unfortunately I don’t have those videos 🤣 we had the dealer mount our Suzuki. But RUclips is a great source you’ll find plenty of vids. Good luck with that restore you should post it on RUclips. We love to watch restore projects!🤙
Bro - Sincerely, thought your video was Excellent! You could tell you had done your homework. You were redundant where you needed to be redundant. All the places in the video where I normally would have rewound it to make sure I understood correctly... there you are; repeating what you just said but adding other key thoughts to draw a clearer picture! It is apparent you care about what you are doing-using quality parts, taking precautions where necessary. I don't normally comment on videos, but I am trying to be better at telling people when they have done a good job... and in my opinion, I thought you put together a great f-ing video. It was exactly what I was looking for & I really enjoyed it. I got a lot out of it and I wanted you to know! Thank you bro!
Tama o le u'a me'a a'asa! Sekiaaaaaa le mea!
My brother, thank you so much for the kind words. I’m truly humbled by them. I’m also so happy that the video was able to help you. My goal was to help people like you were just like me when i started and was researching on how to do it. I appreciate you commenting and showing your support! Thank you so much! 🤙🛥️🌊
Andres you are doing an incredible job. You are becoming if not already a master at this restoration.
Thumbs up !
Thanks Jorge! We’re getting better and better! 🌊🤙🛥️
I spray corrosionX in all of my crimp on battery cables before I crimp. Nice work.
Thanks Kevin! I appreciate that! And that’s a great idea I hadn’t thought of that before. Will do for my next projects! 🤙
Extremely helpful! I am pretty dyslexic and elec/power/wiring has never been my friend, so I also need to see it, hear it, repeat it, take a picture of it, do it, and usually bleed or get zapped a couple times before I get something. Feels much less daunting and complicated though already, after watching once but will watch this a couple more times to 'sink' in better, but again very intuitive and helpful, this might even keep me out of the walk in clinic when I dig into the wires on mine this week... Thanks bro.
Hey Paul thank you so much for the comment! Anytime I can keep someone out of a hospital or clinic is a win for me 🤣. I tried my best to be in depth because just like you, I need to let things sink in until it clicks. If you haven’t seen our other video on wiring the rest of the boat, you might find that one helpful as well. If you have any questions just shoot us an email! 🤙🍻
Nice work! When running the main feeds to the the fuse block, the feeds can approach the fuse block from the sides, making a slightly cleaner installation.
Thanks chip! I’ll have to adjust and see how that looks. I think you’re right it’ll look a little cleaner! 🤙
Thank you for such a thorough video !! I’m the guy who needed to see hear and do it!! Can’t thank you enough
Youre very welcome Caleb! I’m glad the video was able to help you out. We have an ebook coming out this week that will help you in even more detail. I’ll comment and update on here when it’s available! Thanks for the comment brother! 🤙
@@perfectfitboating Please do!! Tight lines man!!
Hey Caleb! Our ebook is available on our website! Check the link in the description!
@@perfectfitboating thank you!!
The best Dual battery installer I have seen!
Thank you so much! Glad it can help! 🤙
This was an awesome explanation! The best I've seen of this type of installation. Thanks!
Thanks Thomas! You’re very welcome! We appreciate the positive comment! Glad we could help! 🙌
Thanks helped a lot.
Glad we were able to help! Thanks for watching and commenting! 🛥️🤙🌊
Great job my friend you’ve done a fantastic job on all of that and it’s great to be thorough and read over your instructions and follow them. I enjoyed listening to you and watching your video.
Thank you so much Larry! We really appreciate the positive comments! We try our best to put out good content! 🙌🍻
Cool, Thank you. Informative, clear instructions
Going to the " Save List "
Thank you brother I’m glad you watched and glad it can help you in the future! Thanks for the comment!🤙
Great video... I appreciate the detail you put into it. Thanks.
Youre very welcome! Thank you for watching and commenting! 🤙
Thanks so much for getting back to me so fast. I have a Grady also with the ping pong ball scuppers. You said you used plastic for through the transom . What make are they? Also I just dis one of my deck plates today . It came out great. Thanks for the great video on that.
No problem! Glad I could help. If I remember right they were perko. We have the two little scuppers on each side I’m not sure if the ping pong ball will work since both holes are so close together. I might just go with the flap that covers the scupper. Does it really help keep water from coming in on your boat?
That’s so great to hear you did your deck plate! Not too difficult of a job I’d say! Good on you for tackling that job! 🤙🛥️🌊
Right on! Awesome job , it turned out great and those ACR setups are sweet! You’ve inspired me to attempt a proper and clean wiring job on my next build! 👊🏼 Thank you for sharing amigo!
Thanks for always bringing the positivity brotha! We gotta get together soon and make some vids! Looking forward to what video you got cooking! I know it’s gonna be epic! 🤙🍻
I just bought a fewe things from you Amazon store, Thanks again!!! Im finally back on the project
That’s awesome, just in time for summer! We really appreciate that! Thank you so much! 🤙
Professional install!
Your ready for a Bahamas crossing right out the gate!
Haha thank you friend! Idk about a crossing just yet! We can start with a cruise across the bay 😂 we’ll make that crossing one day! 🍻
Wow awesome you're very handy. Do it yourself and save money. 😎👍
Thanks fresco! We try! We pretty much know every inch of these boat! 😂 🤙
just got the E-book, great stuff, it answered many questions I had, nice deal well worth the money. keep it coming!😎
Thank you so much! We really the appreciate the purchase and the support for our channel! 🙏🤙
Nice job I suggest put wire numbers at terminal or connection point and make yourself a drawing. Much easier to troubleshoot down the road. Should you have fused both house batteries at the battery? Thank you
Thanks so much for the comment! Since then, we’ve marked and label each wire, if not it would be a nightmare down the road. You are 100% correct.
Both house and start batteries are fused going to the acr as per the acr instructions. I believe they’re 80 amp fuses if I remember right. I think I mention the amps in the video. If I’m not mistaken, fusing the batteries to the regular switch is not necessary as per abyc. I think you’d need a crazy high amp fuse because cranking the motor would blow most fuses.
Thanks for the comment! 🍻
Nice job buddy 👍👍👍
Thanks Andy! Appreciate you commenting! 🤙
Your just like me ,take a pride in what you do,do it neatly and properly , gonna follow your videos now 👍😎
@andys5482 🙏🌊🛥️
Great thorough educational video! Actually one of the best I have seen on RUclips and I watch alot. Keep up the videos ! I am SUBSCRIBED !!!
Thank you so much for the feedback Will! We have one video coming up every week for the next four weeks! We’ve been up to a lot of upgrades and we hope everyone enjoys the content! 🍻
Great job with laying out all the materials you are using in the beginning. Nice and neat installation. We opted for the Blue Sea ACR system as well. Looking forward to seeing each other on the water this summer, brother!
Thank you! We thought the acr was gonna make things easier. It’s either on/off or combine. I don’t want to have to remember to switch to one battery or the other! We’re looking forward to it man! 🍻
I'm the same way brother. I've researched, drawn out on a dry erase board, watch several youtube presentations, talk to a boating friend who happens to be an OSHA Rep for approval for a days about installing a 2nd battery. This has been the best by far and extremely helpful. Learned about the ACR and 80A fuse block. Gotta add that to my dry erase board rendering.. 😁 Thanks..
Thank you so much brotha! My mind works the same way. I think it’s just that I second guess myself and want it to work right! Dry erase board is smart! I would draw it on paper 🤣. Once It clicks, i completely understand the process! It just takes all those steps! Glad this video helped man check out the video after this one about wiring everything else. That one might help too! Cheers and good luck with your project. If you need help shoot me an email and I’ll be happy to help! 🤙🍻
@@perfectfitboating Just subscribed brother. Between you and Colin from Sailing Parlay Revival, pretty inspiring.
Thanks so much man we really appreciate it! We’re trying our best to bring out some educational and entertaining content. The next one is gonna be pretty cool. Transom was ripped out and redone!
Thanks for the kind words my man! 🤙🍻
@perfectfitboating I do something a little different when attaching lug connectors to 2-4G wire. Instead of crimping the connector, I'll hold the connector with vice grips, drop solder inside the insert, , then slide stripped wire into the connector. Did it when I added a 2nd battery to m 2008 Chevy 3500 dually. Rock solid, no issues.......
@@aeroscout8409 that sounds like a good way to do it. There are so many different tips and tricks. I love learning them all!
Thank you. Been waiting for someone to do this. Finally. Just subbed you. Keep on Truckin’
Thank you so much! We really appreciate the support! If you’re taking on a project and need help just shoot me an email! Glad the video can help! 🤙
Great work. Congratulations !!!
Thanks! And thanks for watching! 🤙
Nice video👍 helped med alot. Have a Nice summer from Norway🇧🇻🇧🇻👍😁😁
Thank you so much! I’m glad it helped! 🤙
Great job on the wiring installation 👌 iam way off wiring yet lol, had to rip it all out as was dangerous, but hopefully be good when iam done.
It’s not hard. Just need time and patience! Good luck and if you need help shoot us an email! 🍻
Great job !!...im currently adding a 2nd battery and 2nd bilge pump, and you inspired me to think about tackling the current mess of wires in my cabin (from prev owner)
Thanks Steve we appreciate that! I hope this video will help make it easier for you. Check out the latest video we put out on wiring the rest of the boat! We also do the bilge! 🤙
@perfectfitboating finished my project successfully with your help. Ran into a problem recently with an old wire burning up in the Bilge area. Not sure yet what the wire was too, but I believe it was from the original Bilge pump and/or saltwater pump, but it created a big mess of burned wires that I now have to figure out. Ugghhh. Looks like I'll be watching your vid again and redo everything
Wiring an already wired boat can be frustrating! Good luck with that Steve hope the video helps! We have an ebook coming out this week that might help! I’ll keep it posted in a pin comment in the comment section! Good luck!🤙
Awesome, very informative
Thanks man we appreciate that! Glad you liked it! 🤙
Love your channel. Can you tell me what you have for through hull scuppers. It doesn’t look like you have the brass ones in the video. Thanks
Gary, thank you so much for watching! When we did the transom on this boat, we used the plastic thru hulls. We didn’t want to buy the tool that’s used to bevel the edge and we were on a time crunch to get the motor mounted. They worked just fine and have held up without any issues. The other Grady transom we did had plastic scuppers installed as well.
I think what I’m going to do in addition to these thruhulls is the ping pong scupper or the flap. Both bolt to the outside of the scupper and allow water to drain but don’t allow water to get in. 🌊🤙🛥️
Good job guys. Overkill on the 2/0 for ACR but ain't going to hurt anything. Looking forward to the sea trial video🎉
Thank you! Yeah it’s overkill. But we scored that cable for $10 at the nautical flea market so we figured we’d use it. Sea trial coming soon! Thanks for the positive comments! 🍻
Thank you so much for this, I am going to add some nav lights and a stern light as well as power my engine 9.9 mercury on my gheenoe, Can I do this with one battery, I may add a trolling motor later
You absolutely could. Check out our other video on wiring your boat. We show you how we setup our switches. Glad the video could help! 🤙
Best video Fr fr
Thanks man! 🤙🛥️🌊
This is fantastic, thank you!
You're very welcome Ben! Check out our other video on wiring nav lights, anchor lights and the bilge pump! Let us know what you think! 🍻
Awesome, helpful video
Thank you so much! 🍻
I love how you are so thorough with everything you do! Just subbed yesterday and eating up all your videos. Well done!
Thank you so much my friend! We try to be as thorough as possible so if anyone has a similar project, they might gain the confidence to tackle it just from watching our videos! We really appreciate the support! 🤙
Great work , what’s your method of attaching the starboard to the boat ?
Thanks for the comment Jeff! We just used stainless steel screws right to the inner part of the transom. 🤙
Hola desde España (Cádiz). Un cordial saludo y enhorabuena por mostrar este proyecto en video, el cual estoy siguiendo para la instalación de mi barco. El video está muy bien explicado. Espero que en los siguientes videos llegues hasta el final. Gracias y enhorabuena.
Muchas gracias por el apoyo Emiliano! Me alegro que el video te e ayudado! Tengo otro video mostrándole el mismo proyecto. Tal vez ese te ayuda también! Gracias por el comentario! 🤙
Great video. Remember, redundancy is next to godliness? One comment from my install of 120A ACR, include the switch in the fused ground wire that activates the ACR otherwise you can drain your start battery.
Great tip! Do you know how long it actually takes to drain the battery? I’m wondering if it’s weeks or months. 🍻
@@perfectfitboating I don't know how long but there were enough comments on sailboat videos that I took it to heart with my installation.
@@perfectfitboating My current problem involves which side of the ACR to connect the alternator. There is something called ACR Cycling with the standard wiring with an outboard which charges the start battery first. There seems to be occasions when a motor running at low speeds (eg when trawling)
@@perfectfitboating will leave the house battery with low or no charge. FYI
I gotta look into that. We don’t keep our boat in the water we trailer and charge the batteries at home. I’d be concerned about longer trips where we’d be staying out for a few days. Thanks for the info🤙
Is there any situation where it would be a bigger/smaller fuse between battery and ACR? Or is 80amp the correct fuse to use with the mini system?
I think in the situation you have a bigger outboard whose alternator amperage is CLOSER to the fuse range of 80-20. Your outboard cranks out 17 amps so 80amp fuse would be sufficient.
If I remember reading correctly, there’s spikes in amperage’s when cranking but it’s the sustained draw of amperage while cranking that important. Blue sea systems recommends 80-100 amp fuse but doesn’t tell you why such a big difference. The kit is for a 65amp max alternator which is most bigger and smaller outboards. My guess for having the 80-100 amp fuses is the spike of amperage draw on crank. For example, a Yamaha f300 alternator is 70amps. I’d use the higher end of the recommended fuses (100amps).
They make other kits for larger motors. The next up is a 120 amp alternator kit. And those have even bigger requirements such as fuses and wire sizes.
You’ll be just fine with your f70 and an 80 amp fuse.
Thanks again@@perfectfitboating - Just getting all my ducks lined up before I go ahead. This is one more thing off the list. Cheers
‼Greetings from Toronto 🇨🇦
👍😉😀
Greetings Paul! Hope you’re enjoying the summer up there! 🍻
Great video!
Thanks so much! We try our best! 🤙
Very helpful video, thanks! Do you know how different the ACR installation would be with two outboards?
Check out blue sea systems website they have a schematic for 3 different options for a twin outboard setup 🤙
Which voltage should I choose for a trimeran? 12, 24, 36 or 48?
If it has twin 2000hp diesels and 5 800kw outboards what sort of capacity should the batteries have?
Is lithium the lightest?
Thanks Philip
That’s above my pay grade. I know my buddies 70ft sport fish had a 24volt system. Lithium is the lightest but you have to make sure you have the right dc to dc chargers to charge it.
Nice job ,short and simple coment6
Thanks Marc! We appreciate that! 🤙
Greetings from Europe👋Great and very informative video. I am planning to install a house battery as well on my own. I have no experience of any installation.But I have a question about the terminal fuse. If ACR is rated for 65 A why do we need to have an 80 A terminal fuse but not 60 A for example. 60 A fuse will trip out before ACR burns out. As far I understand those 80 A fuses are to protect ACR.
Hey there! You are correct! Those fuses are there for the ACR just in case. But the rating is recommended by blue sea systems as so. If I remember right, they recommend 80-100 amp fuse in the instructions and I believe it’s for the spikes in current.🤙
Nice job!
Thank you! 🍻
Question:
Why use a deep cycle for the house?
I’m planning on running two group 24’s in parallel. Both identical batteries. Both with 1000 CA and 130a reserve capacity.
One for the motor one for the house. But they are both “cranking batteries”
That’s a good question. You could do that. But, you’d want a house or deep cycle battery to run your accessories while at anchor, or when you have the motor turned off. Think of cranking batteries like a sprinter and deep cycle batteries like a marathon runner. They’re meant to handle that load over a long period of time.
If you have a single motor, that many cranking amps isn’t really necessary. Different batteries have different jobs that’s all. Hope they helps.🤙
I like the wiring but unsure it would work as I plan on using lithium batteries for the house banks
I’m researching that just now and it doesn’t seem like it’s possible unless you have an isolator or a dc to dc charger. Also, some motor manufacturers like Suzuki recommend lead acid only.
Nice job.
Thank you! 🤙
Not a big deal but I’d recommend getting a circuit breaker over 30. Might not need it now but basically will save you from having to do it in the future
Hey Brad! That’s a good tip. As the boat sits now it’s ok with the 30 amp but once we upgrade the gps and add another wash down, we’re. Definitely going to up that breaker! 🤙
Nice job
Thanks Glenn! We appreciate the comment! 🤙
Great video bro!
Thank you man! We try! 🍻
Good video. Where did you get your wiring diagrams? Is that only for the ACR install?
I have 2 start batteries and 2 house batteries (in parallel)and 2 on-off switches. Do I just double what you're doing?
Thank you so much! You can go on blue sea systems website and the diagrams are there to view. For your case, you don’t have to double it. You’d run it the same as a 2 battery setup. The cables that connect the battery to the acr will have the fuses the same way a 2 battery kit does.
Hi great video, I got the bigger version from blue seas add a battery kit here recently and I noticed you ran 2/0 cable to your mini ACR. My question is, if I too am running 2/0 cable can I also use a 90 Amp fuse? Just curious and thanks again for the great content!!
Hey buddy thank you for the comment and thanks for watching! In your add a battery kit, it might be hard to find, but it will tell you the required fuse you need. And it’s going to be a range. So for the mini kit, if I remember right, it was 80-100 range. Not sure what it is on the larger kit.
Edit: just checked and this is what it states: cable size to meet ratings - 4/0 AWG (120mm²)†
100-125 amp fuse
You can find it on the blue sea systems site it’s a pdf file under the “add a battery 7650 kit”
🤙
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤
tu es le bienvenu ! 🤙
Good video, but why connect positives with fuses before negatives? Working with live wires?
Thanks for the comment! We appreciate it. Not trying to downplay the dangerous nature of electricity. But, 12v systems are generally harmless. If this was your typical 110v house system that’s a different story. Either way, precaution should be taken when dealing with any type of live wire so you’re right! 🤙
thanks great vid
You’re welcome! Thank you for commenting and for watching! 🤙
Looks like a good instal, but why did you bypassthe fuse with the second battery cable? voids the point of rhe fuse! you need fuses on the leads to the switch too.
Thanks for the comment. There are 4 positive cables coming from both batteries. Both batteries have one positive cable that goes to the switch (unfused) and 1 going to the acr which is fused. This is according to the blue sea systems and any other battery switch setup. The fuse you would need for these would be huge. You can put one in but it’s not required. 👍
Amazing video!!! Glad I found this video we start redoing the Harness in our boat . Thank you for make it so Simple I’ll do it same way your doing it. I just wondering about the gauges?
Hey Elias! Thank you for the comment! I hope your project goes smooth and I’m glad our video can help.
Depending on the motor you have, the gauges can be a little trickier. Usually each motor has a harness and from there you get your gauge power, tilt and trim, tach voltage etc. If you search “boat gauge wiring” tons of good videos come up! 🤙
@@perfectfitboating Thanks man another question i see something in the diagram says optional switch for no current drain when is storage ill keep the boat in water i want to make sure everything will be alright
Yes there’s more to read up on in the manual. I didn’t mess with that option because we plan on installing a charger on the boat to not worry about the battery discharging from the acr drawing current.
Amazing! One more thing ones I install the arc the kill switch still can cut power to the front fuse box or not? If not I can put my automatic beilge pump direct to the battery so when I’m not at the boat will works automatic. Like I say the boat will be sit in the water for few days
@@perfectfitboating by the way thanks a lot for taking the time to comment back.
This was done with 2 lead batteries. I guess with lifepo on the 'house' side the system would look much different?
That’s correct! Lead acid batteries. Blue sea systems sells an acr kit specifically for lithium LifePO4 batteries. 🤙
Great video .. greetings from the Netherlands 🇳🇱.. what determines the amp size or type of ACR .. ? Or are ACR for any battery.. . I am going to wire a boat myself and I have no idea what I am doing 😂. But RUclips is great .. gonna watch Your other videos now ⚓️
Thank you Pablo! The determining factor would be the motors alternator output. They sell acr’s in 65amp and 120amp versions. The version in my video is a 65amp since my outboard doesn’t produce but 50 amps I believe. RUclips is a great place to learn and hopefully this video helps you. I made it for people like myself who had no idea. Our latest video shows the rest of the wiring so that one might help you too! Thanks for the support Pablo! Stay warm up there! 🍻
Awesome Video mate! You covered everything, and so easy to understand. Will use this to help wire my boat for sure.
Can I ask, do you think the Blue Seas Mini ACR is ok for a Yamaha F70? Or would you recommend the full size?
Thank you so much for the comment! We really appreciate it and we’re glad it helped! And yes it’s perfect for a Yamaha f70! 🤙
@perfectfitboating thank you!!
Hi @@perfectfitboating , I purchased the eBook and it has certainly helped me break down this whole project, thank you!
I have a couple questions if you dont mind me asking:
1 - Do you think the Negative Busbar that the Batteries/ACR connects to, needs to be 250-300 Amps as per your booklet? Or is 100-150 ok? Ive hadded up my devices and purchased a 50AMP breaker.
2. In your Ebook, it says the inline fuse to ground the ACR requires a 1 AMP blade fuse, in the Diagram at the back of the booklet it says 10amp. I'm assuming this should be 10amp? Thanks so much
@@TheFattestManAlive for your 70 in sure that bus bar is perfectly fine!
As far as the fuse for the acr ground goes… make sure the diagram youre looking at is for the M-acr. That ground wire fuse is 100% a 1 amp fuse. The “si-acr might take a 10amp. When I did a quick search online, I saw the 10amp fuse but it was only on the si-acr and not the mini. Hope that helps. If anything shoot me an email and I can send you the diagram from blue seas. Thank you so much for supporting our channel brother! 🤙
Thank you @@perfectfitboating.. you give good info and have helped me with my dumb questions haha Also just to clarify your busbar comment, did you mean the 100-150 is enough?
the battery fuses protect the wire from burning and creating a fire.
Correct
I have a 2002 aluminum craft bass boat with a Yamaha 130TLRQ I pick up this rig has been setting up for 7 years. The wiring harness under the console is history need to install new gauges but can’t find a wiring diagram for this year or model.
Should be able to get a harness diagram online for that year. Then you can match the color wires of the gauges to the harness. Are the gauges digital or analog?
Your cable is 2AWG not 2/0 which is 00 AWG. Huge difference between the two.
Yes that is correct. At 4:52 I say 2 awg cable. What I should’ve done is made a caption reading 2 awg cable. Good clarification! 🤙👍
@@perfectfitboating I used to mix them up a lot until I had to work with 2/0 and 4/0. Since then I've never confused the two, haha
good job sir
Thank you Jeff! I appreciate that! 🍻
Never used an ACR before, how would it work in conjunction with a solar panel feeding my house battery?
It would work just fine actually. The acr can sense when either battery is full and sends the charge to the battery in need. So if your house battery is full, it would just stop sending charge to that house battery. Thank you for the comment! 🤙
Can you also install a 2 bank plug-in charger to those batteries where you can plug in and charge overnight?
Yes you can actually! I’ll be doing a video on that soon. I just haven’t chosen which battery charger I want to use. Thanks for watching! 🤙
@perfectfitboating Ok great! I purchased the Noco 2 bank charger to install up front on my lithium trolling motor batteries and using a minnkota 2 bank charger on the rear Agm starter and lead acid deep cycle batteries.
@@Redskins-ss6zs nice! We are considering that charger!
oh man those leaves
Appreciate you sharing. Did you ever connect the si wire in the acr? I didn’t see you address that part.
Hey thanks for the comment!
The grounding wire for for the acr? Yes we installed that with the fuse! 🤙
@@perfectfitboating isn’t there supposed to be two 16 awg wires? One for ground and the other says si? I believe coming from ignition? Thank you for quick response! You’re the man!
Yes that’s right there’s two wires. The ground and the si wire that goes to ignition. If I remember correctly that wire is optional. I did not wire it up I left it open! 🤙
Can you place the circuit breaker next to the fuse panel for easy access?
There’s no rule that says you can’t. But it’s recommended to have it as close to appliance as possible. Because what youre protecting is the wire. If you have the breaker up in the cabin for example, you have 15-20 feet of unprotected wire. So that breaker protects that long run of wire up to the helm! 🍻
this is really dumb question...but does the motor not have a negative wire? only positive?
Yes the motor has a negative and it goes straight to the negative post of the starter battery. 🤙
What is the the difference between the two battries and there use?
Starter battery and a house battery. Starter is for your engine and the house runs all your devices! 🤙
Why did you use 2 awg wire? Batteries seemed to be close to ACR. Thank you...
Hey there thanks for the comment! It’s overkill tbh. It’s what we had. We could’ve used 6awg and been just fine. Checkout our latest video where we wired another acr where we used 6awg wire! 🤙
Thank you...@@perfectfitboating
You should mention the terminal number also..
This is true. I can’t remember right now the size of the numbers but I should’ve mentioned them in the video. Thanks for the comment! 🤙
my electrical engineer friend says breaker should not be the sum of all your devices but based on your wire gauge
Ask your electrical engineer friend what happens when the sum of your devices exceeds the amperage of the wire.
Sir, How do I determine what terminal fuse block AMP donI use. I have a Suzuki 140 motor.
The fuse block gets power from the switch which has the circuit breaker in between (next to the switch). The circuit breaker I used is a 30 amp. I determined that by adding up all the appliances ( pumps, lights, aerator) amperage’s. So if I was to use all of the appliances at once (which no one ever does) you should be around that amperage for the fuse. It’s not really determined by the motor. If you plan to run more appliances like more lights or more live wells you might need a larger fuse and you’d probably want to increase size of the wire to the fuse block. I hope this helps! 🤙
Nice excellent job. How much do you think a job like this cost, labor and parts?
I’m thinking of rewiring my boat before launching it for this season but don’t have time to do it.
Hey bean! Thank you for the comment! I want to say that in parts alone, batteries, cables, switches, lights etc. One would spend a minimum of about $1,300. Depends on the quality of your parts. For example, our underwater lights were from Amazon $22 whereas lumitec lights can run $300+. Mine might last 2 years but I can buy a dozen before I get to the cost of the lumitec. We didn’t skimp on the fuse block or the acr and switch or any of the fuses on the batteries. The batteries were basic marine and they were about $120 each. Lithium batteries can be 10x that cost. So in our case (budget) I’d say we did it for around 1200-1300.
As far as labor goes, any marina or mobile marine electrician will charge a minimum of $125 an hour. It took me 5 days to do the entire wiring including the accessories. Nothing ever goes easy on an old boat 🤣 hope that helps answer your question! 🤙
It’s definitely time consuming. Especially if you’ve never done it before because you want it to be done right. But I’ll tell you what, I know how everything works and where everything is. And I have peace of mind. Check out my other video on wiring the rest of the boat. Hopefully it’ll help you get a jumpstart on your project! It’s worth it! Let me know how it turns out man good luck!🤙
Why install an 80A terminal block fuse when the max rating on the ACR is 65A.? I'm no electrician just curious since I'm rewiring my KW 1720 for night time shrimping/fishing ease
Hey there thanks for the comment. The instructions for the blue sea systems acr kit calls for a fuse with a 75-90amp rating for less than or equal to 60 charging amps. Now I’m not sure why exactly they require it but I tried to follow the instructions as close as I could. Hope they helps! 🍻
@@perfectfitboating Thank you brother, I'm itemizing parts right this very second. Thank you for making such a detailed video and this incredibly quick response...I wish my KW 1720 had all of that space like you have, LOL
@@Beachnative42 you got it my man! If you need extra help just write me an email I’ll be happy to help!
And yeah this boat has a lot of storage and space! But on a boat, you can never have enough! lol 🍻
Does the green light stay on and flash every 15 sec while the switch is off?? Will this drain the battery?
Yes, it does stay on and flashes every 15 seconds. Eventually it can drain the battery if it’s sitting too long without starting the motor. If I know the boat will sit I’ll disconnect the power cable from the battery. 🍻
Why did you go with a 30amp Circuit breaker? I’m trying to figure out what size breaker I need myself
Thanks for the comment. I added up the amperage of all the instruments and appliances (pumps, lights etc). It gave me right around 28 amps or so. So I chose 30 amps for the breaker. I’m never going to have everything running at one time but if I did I’d have just enough with the 30 amp fuse. The breaker is to protect the WIRE in case of a short. Make sure you have the right awg cable for the length of the run of wire and for the amperage you are pulling. Hope that helps! 🍻
@@perfectfitboating what’s the point of the circuit breaker if each individual accessory has a fuse on it on the fuse panel box? I’m just curious, because it seems redundant. I’m also new to this so I’m genuinely asking.
@@friday14fs The point of the circuit breaker is to protect the line in between the circuit breaker and the fuse block. If there was a short in that wire and you don’t have a fuse or a breaker in between, that wire could potentially catch fire. The fuses on the fuse block protect the lines from the instrument/appliance to the fuse block.
i am about to do the same, rewireing my whole boat, its not big but the last owner didnt put in any safety and not any proper wires
Nice! Hopefully this video helps you out! Check out our other video on how to wire all your lights, bilge pumps etc. That one might help too! Good luck and thank you for the comment!🙌
Did you wire the neg bus bar back to battery? Installing on my pontoon and of course no metal steel like car
Yes! that bus bar goes back to the battery! 👍
Ty great video!
One more ? Do you put the switch on combine?
@sterlingobando225 I only put the switch on combine if my starter battery is low on voltage and can’t start the motor. Other than that, I leave it on 1 (starter battery) and go about my day. The acr charges both once the motor is running. 🍻
Thanks fit the video. What about the small able that goes from the acr to the ignition?
Hey thanks for the comment! That wire is optional. Also during the time of this video I don’t think we had a finalized motor on the boat. Since then we added a motor and the wire! 🤙
I just installed one of these. I'm getting 12v across poles 1 and 1 (which is my start batt + and thebwire going to the starter) with the switch in the off position. Is that normal?
Hey Craig! Thanks for the comment! So position one would be the connection to the motor and the other position one would be the starter battery. If you have the switch in off I’m almost certain that it should not get a reading of any kind as it is supposed to interrupt everything including the starting off the motor. I’m gonna double check mine tomorrow though and get back to you because if you do have power then you should be able to start the motor and that defies the purpose of the switch.
Wassup PFB. Question... Do you know if it matters which battery is set on switch position 1 or 2?
Wassup!? Thanks for the comment! That’s a great question. After looking at the diagram, at first I thought it didn’t matter. But the switch has off/on/Both positions. I’m thinking when the switch is turned to on, it makes a circuit with position 1 (starter battery). If you were to switch positions, it would then be using the house battery for cranking and the starter battery to run power to the fuse block. I’m not 100% sure but I believe this to be the case. Let me know if that makes sense.
@@perfectfitboating I have the 120amp switch. I'm just going to golliw the instructions. Motor/starter to terminal 2, house to terminal 1..
@@aeroscout8409 good idea! 🤙
Hi I noticed that as soon you installed all the cables the acr started to blink 3 times which means that’s under voltage isolation , I have my doing the same last time I was using the boat that even with the engine on wasn’t charging the house battery so the house battery died , any suggestion?
I noticed that also when I first installed it. If I remember correctly, there a delay before it starts to blink every 15 seconds.
Last week I had the same issue you’re speaking about and it turned out to be a bad battery that wouldn’t hold a charge. Check and see if that’s your problem. Hope that helps!
@@perfectfitboating thanks I don’t think that is the battery due to and battery check system that I have in that battery that allows me to see the battery % and I just charged it in the morning and still full of charge and the acr still blinking 3 time I think that should be a problem with the acr
@Hookthatfish if the battery is good then I think youre right. Could be the acr. double check connections and fuses in case but it seems it might be the acr.
@@perfectfitboating thanks for your help
Why are you working with live wires?
Why not just build the circuit. And then connect to the battery?
I’ll preface my response with this statement. The electrical on a boat should never be taken lightheartedly. Working with 12v system isn’t the same as working on your house where it might be 120v or even 220v where it can kill you. In this video I ran the positive wires first and left the negative wires for last. And you are correct, you could most definitely build the circuit first then connect to the battery. Thanks for the comment! 🤙
how do you connect a trolling motor to that or is that seperate?
I’m not 100% sure but I would think it’s separate. 🤙
Mess at best and 50amp breaker should be closer to positive 6" from battery post,😮
Womp womp. What are you babbling about?
Hey where do u get the thick red wire ?
We got those at the pompano beach flea market but we have a link to our Amazon page where you can find them! 🤙
are both batteries deepcycles?
One deep cycle one starter battery 🛥️🤙🌊
I am in desperate need of some guidance for my pontoon. I have 5 batteries total. I want to make sure they are all hooked up correctly. I have 4 things but possible 5th that’ll require power. I have one Pecko 2 way switch already installed - 1, 2, All and OFF. I also have 2 onboard battery chargers. 1 is 2 bank and 1 is a 3 Bank. I can send pics or specs if needed.
1. Motor/ignition
2. Trolling motor 80lb thrust
3. Garmin Depth Finder
4. 8 speaker w 2 12” subs stereo
5. Possible re-hook up bilge pump
Main ? Is how to hook up all of these appropriately if you can give any advice I would be forever grateful!
you need to put 2 more on off switches so you can isolate bad battery ..cheers
Thanks for the tip! That’s a good idea! 🍻
That switch keeps them isolated in the on and off positions. It has an emergency position to combine them. The ACR is automatic based on charging voltage. Plus the house circuits have a main breaker which could be open or closed. So - I think he's got it covered.