I have an old 80s mx that I've been restoring for a year now. Took it down to every nut bolt and washer , inspected replaced or reused if good . built my own steerable nosewheel that works with the rudder controls ,works great . I added lower tail boom tubes, horizontal and vertical tail support cables, larger main gear bush tires. I have done alot more improvements including brakes . The one thing I still want to do is install ailerons , The down side is i'm a disabled vet with a small pension so that is why I fabricate my own parts when I can . I grew up in a military family who loved flying but that was 40 years ago and i'm trying to get back into what i love the most and that is Flying.
Got something good to fill your time with.... lol, and being a machinist you know all about metals & the mechanics of this plane. I don't know anything except I'm older & disabled/retired but would like to fly some kind of Part 103 aircraft. What I'm curious about is the "Fabric Wing Material", do you have to purchase another one or can they be repaired? I'd think it would be expensive to purchase a new one but what are your plans w/ regard to the fabric used? Or did it survive all the years? I hadn't really considered that but I guess they could be in good shape?? Please let me know, peace & GB
@@diggy-d8w Glad to hear from you, As far as the material it is original and in pretty good shape. It can be repaired if you have the right equipment. I was raised by a father who believed in fixing things himself and if he didnt know how he would learn it, well I'm a chip off the old block and was gifted with being mechanically inclined. The covering for the whole airplne would cost around 1200 to 1500 dollars.
Your dad was a wise man, I have a hard time w/ throwing things away that might be fixed although I know longer have all the tools to fix them anymore. I drive a 28 yr old truck for those reasons & b/c those who want to Road Rage look at me & think I got nothing to lose..... lol, we all got something to lose but I appreciate your dad philosophy. Yeah, I had wondered about the "fabrics" used & if it got dry rotted over time? I figured there are "Tapes" and/or shrink type materials that might do a repair but I'm no where near needing to know. Thanks for taking the time, peace
@@diggy-d8w Yea my Dad knew a lot, Just in case you wanted to know the material they used was Dacron sail cloth but I don't remember the thickness of it . Funny my daily driver is 26yrs old .
Imagine you having an old beater to get around in....lmao, I'm not the only one & mine isn't all beat up/bent but it's got the LQQK of, "I don't give a FLYing F#@K" . Really I don't flinch over the plastic cars out there as mine has this strange stuff called, "Metal"? Yep, I actually have some metal in the body & fenders but I digress. I'm in the beginning of trying to research these Part 103 ultra lights. I may never buy one but I'm entertaining my self right now. And it's good to be aware of the fabric too, that way I'll know more about a repair should I come across the plane. I imagine torn fabric is common after years of parking one of these.... somehow I'm thinking I'll find one laying around, someone trying to not lose it. I've been that person but I thanks you. I'll be checking out your other videos, peace
Good job flying it as a GA pilot. These give standard GA pilots a challenge as they are fairly different from what you would be familiar with. Couple tips from an ultralight pilot and sport pilot CFI: 1) Don’t jockey the stick so much. The controls aren’t sensitive so you aren’t actually making any real changes. The plane will move around with the air movements. Smooth movements are all you need. 2) Keep full power in the climb. I could be wrong, but it seemed like you were pulling back on the power early on. 3) In the climb be ready to nose forward instantly if you lose power. Hopefully won’t happen, but practice it anyway. 4) Do a steeper approach on final. The old school ultralight approach with the high drag and low mass requires what may seem like a dive. This keeps your speed up with lower power (maybe idle). You are going so slow that pulling out into the round out is a non-event. Don’t drag it in from a mile out. Good luck 👍, those old MX models were awesome. So basic, yet so well proven.
I’ve flown planes without brakes. Brakes were optional equipment until 1941. If you taxi onto grass you’ll stop fast. Just always be ready to taxi on grass
OK, I am not a hang glider/Quicksilver driver but, a heavy driver co-worker pilot friend of mine had a 1970's two axis with rudder and elevator only. His technique of choice for crosswinds was to line up on the downwind side of the runway, crabbing as you slowed down, and then "finish" your final turn across the runway as you flared. The more wind, the more offset to the side. Worst case, you exit the runway into the grass. It was all FM to me but, in addition to heavy time, I also flew lots of two-axis RC gliders and that was basically my technique as well. I found in gusty situations, just a little extra speed gave you more stability and control authority. Not sure if that translates to the MX but, it should. Just try to fly it on. Good luck! Oh, and be sure to make sure the fuel petcock is always on before takeoff. A friend was injured after his MX engine quit, getting airborne on what was in the carb bowl.
That second airplane I think was an MXL. It looked identical to my last Quicksilver. Same color. Mine had the Rotax 377. I was 230lbs and was airborne in 50 feet. Loved the MXL. Bought it in 1983.
I loved my Quicksilver Mx Sprint. My favorite time to fly was early pm to sunset. The 2 axis Mx is fine in calmer air but makes you work flying it mid-day with thermals and wind. Buy the aileron kit, you won’t be sorry. Overall, I had 7 years of safe, trouble free flying before selling it. I sure miss her.
I have one of these. Will probably pull it out and put new sails on her. Then composite prop, aerolons and brakes. Still have the ballistic chute as well.
I have a 84 MX w/377 Rotax in MI. It definately is work to fly in wind/thermals with the single surface. Rowdy air is to be penetrated through with some fwd stick and find yourself to the stops at times. Spoilers really don't do much anything other that initial, "did something, but nothing else." The crosswind landind technique is to just drive it on crabbed.... I don't land it crosswind and wait for fair weather, although you can stop traffic flying it backwards on good stable, laminar wind day. Most fun I have in public with my pants on and have flights on my channel. Comm/Inst, 41rst yr pilot. I even rented out of Erie in the early 90's when I lived north Denver. A nice evening/morning a delight to fly. The shooters earmuffs at Walmart are the best for the engine overhead. Usually 46-4800 rpm for fun flying, zero instruments. Mine came w/band brakes, they work. No nosewheel steering.
@SirDrifto They're very much a minimal airplane with a lot of "kite"in them, but they fly! and by gosh in the simplicity of all, that in itself is great. Flew another QS w/Cuyuna, pretty much the same, a B Weedhopper and owned a C Weedhopper. Same theories as the Quick, but sheer dogs with the Chotia engines. Also own a Fisher Koala FP-202. Now we're talking real airplane flight qualities for handling wind and penetration abilities. Powered by a 277 Rotax (28hp) it is accurate to describe it as everything 2/3 scale J-3 Cub ultralight. Nice to be able to close up the cabin. I want to get it up from AZ to Michigan for summer flying. I winter in AZ and keep a Tri Pacer and Pitts S1S in the hangar there. Got a KR-2 I want to re-engine with a Continental. In Michigan I have a Piper Pacer and the Quicksilver up there. Anything flying is so enjoyable. For a living, it was not so much. Too much wrong place/wrong time in the mid 90's. Keep the videos coming, like the content.
That was my first ultralight. The Eipper MXL. It was the easiest to fly and very responsive. I probably had 300 hrs before I moved up to the Phantom/Avenger a full axis aerobatic airplane with a Rotax 503. The pilot was a little ham fisted, but you might want to adjust the coaxial control cable, seemed loose as it took a lot of input to move the airplane. When properly set up, you take off at 35mph and cruise at 55mph. I seriously doubt the engines was taching 8000rpm, the tach meter is not wired right, the actual numbers should be around 5000rpm, cruise at 4200rpm. Have fun.
I have over 800 hours in my MX. The numbers you looked up are garbage. Stall 18mph (14 in ground effect) but these vary a bit with fuel and how big your lunch was.. Curse speed 25 to 32mph. max speed ~45, VNE unreachable. Wide CG range but flies best in balance. Keep the spoilers, they are nice for hands off flying and can be used with rudder failure can even over power a jammed rudder full left or right. With both spoilers up you can approach at 40 degree glide slope for very short landing distance. Spoilers take better part of a second from input to form a stall bubble for control effect. Takeoff 80 to 100' (200 to 300 from my grass strip at 5050', 500' @DA8000') Landing 50 to 100'. X winds get interesting. Be ready to land into the wind, Xwind limit 5mph, fly parallel off the side down wind of runway then turn across over the runway and land into the wind in 40 to 50 feet. The thing you have to get used to is the skid-roll turns from the 2 axis high dihedral design. You MUST trade off heading for roll and it can feel a bit strange for a GA 3 axis pilot. Ear plugs and good headset required for noise. Probably the easiest plane to fly, so slow you have time to think about every move. "Low and slow" Definition: when you have to climb to make it over then next barb wire fence!
@@SirDrifto Let me add.... like all untralights the MX has no momentum. Very high drag. This can be a HUGE problem for GA pilots. The biggest GOTCHYA is an engine failure on climb out!!! ALWAYS be ready to shove the stick forward a bunch to maintain airspeed at the sound of a single missed cylinder firing. In addition to the nose up climb you are pulling back on the stick to offset the nose down moment from the above center of drag thrust line of the high mounted engine at full power. This can go from climb speed to a stall in about a second!!! You won't have time to hesitate and think about an engine failure. Dead stick glide is like a brick. About 30 degrees nose down to maintain airspeed!! But forced landings are no problem with so low a stall speed. I know from experience!!
Vne unreachable. Haha. That's what I've been told by Brian carpenter. That you can't fly a sprint fast enough to break it. That it goes it's absolute fastest a little past vertical. And he said that's around 70 mph
I was wondering about that elevator action as well😊. Glad you didn’t die! I had an Mx1 with ailerons and then a Quicksilver MX2 Sprint Put 200 hrs in them then went to flying the certified stuff..learned to fly at KLMO with Dean Spencer.
@@lucianosantucci108 unfortunately the cable tension on the elevator was more slack than I liked and the cg was a bit off. So my inputs were minor but just enough incase it tried to do anything adverse.
You’re a lot more brave than me. There’s no way I would have made a maiden takeoff in an unfamiliar plane with another, faster plane turning final behind me. I would’ve waited for that traffic to be down.
FAR Part 103 is based on the Quicksilver MX-1 at the time of writing. Weight, fuel capacity, airspeed, stall speed. That's how we got those weird, seemingly arbitrary numbers.
Just wondering how pitch sensitive the MX is. You were pumping the elevator a lot, as a sailplane pilot I have seen newbies get into pilot induced oscillations on tow.
It was mainly due to the Cg being adversly forward aft causing the plane to pitch down. I was still unsure of its stall characteristics so I i was just trying to find a happy medium. After landing we figured out the cg was off.
When the MX CG is in trim it becomes a nearly hands off flyer. Can fly in calm air by shifting my weight or turn by sticking out an arm or leg. MX flies best with minimal input. Just fly it like a butterfly let it go where the wind takes it and use stick to maintain the general heading.
How do you get permission from land owners and/or airports? Do you have to join a "club" or lease some land? Everyone is so scared of getting sued these days that I'd think one would have to own enough land to do it or it maybe costs so much that the price keeps the average person out of the sport? I live in southern MN and have never seen one flying around here.
@@lectrickwall4479 you have a federal legal right as a pilot to fly out of these airports. If you are ever denied by an airport employee or manager. Call the FAA and they will investigate. We dealt with this with paramotors and airports enough to know how to handle it.
@@Adventureoutdoors. I think you pretty much can buy any part for these or Essentially build one new. You see some really good deals on refurbished ones pop up
When I was 16 I bought a double Eagle canard ultralight with a weight shifting harness and tip drag rudders and a canard with an elevator - it was a hoot, no breaks, no steering on the ground, a Cayuna 430 and a massive wooden prop - taught me how to fly like a Down syndrome bird but once in the air she actually flew well and was very stable, couldn’t stall her but she had a nasty tendency to drift so approaches were a gamble. I had my eye on a Quicksilver but lost out and always regretted it, now in my mid 40s I would love to find one that’s airworthy. I noticed you constantly fighting pitch, is she out of trim perhaps? Rudder work takes on a new meaning in these things.
@@ScottVanArtsdalen well the cg was pretty far off. And it had a tendency to dip nose down. So I was trying to curtail that the best I could. I could of been smoother though.
@@javieruriel in the aircrafts defense, I'm familiar with a 3 axis aircraft and this was 2 axis so it was just a different control feel. Also the CG was a bit off. If I redid the flight. I would choose no cross winds, more even CG, and more familiarization on the 2 axis in cross winds.
I noticed the constant inputs and was wondering why it was needed. I'm certainly no expert, but have flown almost 30hours in a bocian. I'd love to read his response, and yes, I do realise it was a new plane/experience and he mentioned some binding. Is ok to throw some stuff around to see what it does right. 👌🏼
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
I have an old 80s mx that I've been restoring for a year now. Took it down to every nut bolt and washer , inspected replaced or reused if good . built my own steerable nosewheel that works with the rudder controls ,works great . I added lower tail boom tubes, horizontal and vertical tail support cables, larger main gear bush tires. I have done alot more improvements including brakes . The one thing I still want to do is install ailerons , The down side is i'm a disabled vet with a small pension so that is why I fabricate my own parts when I can . I grew up in a military family who loved flying but that was 40 years ago and i'm trying to get back into what i love the most and that is Flying.
Got something good to fill your time with.... lol, and being a machinist you know all about metals & the mechanics of this
plane. I don't know anything except I'm older & disabled/retired but would like to fly some kind of Part 103 aircraft. What
I'm curious about is the "Fabric Wing Material", do you have to purchase another one or can they be repaired? I'd think it
would be expensive to purchase a new one but what are your plans w/ regard to the fabric used? Or did it survive all the
years? I hadn't really considered that but I guess they could be in good shape?? Please let me know, peace & GB
@@diggy-d8w Glad to hear from you, As far as the material it is original and in pretty good shape. It can be repaired if you have the right equipment. I was raised by a father who believed in fixing things himself and if he didnt know how he would learn it, well I'm a chip off the old block and was gifted with being mechanically inclined. The covering for the whole airplne would cost around 1200 to 1500 dollars.
Your dad was a wise man, I have a hard time w/ throwing things away that might be fixed although I know longer have
all the tools to fix them anymore. I drive a 28 yr old truck for those reasons & b/c those who want to Road Rage look
at me & think I got nothing to lose..... lol, we all got something to lose but I appreciate your dad philosophy. Yeah, I
had wondered about the "fabrics" used & if it got dry rotted over time? I figured there are "Tapes" and/or shrink type
materials that might do a repair but I'm no where near needing to know. Thanks for taking the time, peace
@@diggy-d8w Yea my Dad knew a lot, Just in case you wanted to know the material they used was Dacron sail cloth but I don't remember the thickness of it . Funny my daily driver is 26yrs old .
Imagine you having an old beater to get around in....lmao, I'm not the only one & mine isn't all beat up/bent but it's got
the LQQK of, "I don't give a FLYing F#@K" . Really I don't flinch over the plastic cars out there as mine has this strange
stuff called, "Metal"? Yep, I actually have some metal in the body & fenders but I digress. I'm in the beginning of trying
to research these Part 103 ultra lights. I may never buy one but I'm entertaining my self right now. And it's good to be
aware of the fabric too, that way I'll know more about a repair should I come across the plane. I imagine torn fabric is
common after years of parking one of these.... somehow I'm thinking I'll find one laying around, someone trying to not
lose it. I've been that person but I thanks you. I'll be checking out your other videos, peace
Good job flying it as a GA pilot. These give standard GA pilots a challenge as they are fairly different from what you would be familiar with.
Couple tips from an ultralight pilot and sport pilot CFI:
1) Don’t jockey the stick so much. The controls aren’t sensitive so you aren’t actually making any real changes. The plane will move around with the air movements. Smooth movements are all you need.
2) Keep full power in the climb. I could be wrong, but it seemed like you were pulling back on the power early on.
3) In the climb be ready to nose forward instantly if you lose power. Hopefully won’t happen, but practice it anyway.
4) Do a steeper approach on final. The old school ultralight approach with the high drag and low mass requires what may seem like a dive. This keeps your speed up with lower power (maybe idle). You are going so slow that pulling out into the round out is a non-event. Don’t drag it in from a mile out.
Good luck 👍, those old MX models were awesome. So basic, yet so well proven.
Really good pointers here. Thank you!
Nice video, thanks for posting, great to see a GA pilot jump into an ultralight and defy death yet again! Bravo!
Haha thank you! Though I probably looked half drunk trying to control the thing 🤣🤘
I’ve flown planes without brakes. Brakes were optional equipment until 1941. If you taxi onto grass you’ll stop fast. Just always be ready to taxi on grass
I should have landed on the grass 🤣
OK, I am not a hang glider/Quicksilver driver but, a heavy driver co-worker pilot friend of mine had a 1970's two axis with rudder and elevator only. His technique of choice for crosswinds was to line up on the downwind side of the runway, crabbing as you slowed down, and then "finish" your final turn across the runway as you flared. The more wind, the more offset to the side. Worst case, you exit the runway into the grass. It was all FM to me but, in addition to heavy time, I also flew lots of two-axis RC gliders and that was basically my technique as well. I found in gusty situations, just a little extra speed gave you more stability and control authority. Not sure if that translates to the MX but, it should. Just try to fly it on. Good luck! Oh, and be sure to make sure the fuel petcock is always on before takeoff. A friend was injured after his MX engine quit, getting airborne on what was in the carb bowl.
That second airplane I think was an MXL. It looked identical to my last Quicksilver. Same color. Mine had the Rotax 377. I was 230lbs and was airborne in 50 feet. Loved the MXL. Bought it in 1983.
I loved my Quicksilver Mx Sprint. My favorite time to fly was early pm to sunset. The 2 axis Mx is fine in calmer air but makes you work flying it mid-day with thermals and wind. Buy the aileron kit, you won’t be sorry. Overall, I had 7 years of safe, trouble free flying before selling it. I sure miss her.
@@quickflyer679 what did you do to handle cross winds with the 2 axis?
I have one of these. Will probably pull it out and put new sails on her. Then composite prop, aerolons and brakes. Still have the ballistic chute as well.
I have a 84 MX w/377 Rotax in MI. It definately is work to fly in wind/thermals with the single surface. Rowdy air is to be penetrated through with some fwd stick and find yourself to the stops at times. Spoilers really don't do much anything other that initial, "did something, but nothing else." The crosswind landind technique is to just drive it on crabbed.... I don't land it crosswind and wait for fair weather, although you can stop traffic flying it backwards on good stable, laminar wind day. Most fun I have in public with my pants on and have flights on my channel.
Comm/Inst, 41rst yr pilot. I even rented out of Erie in the early 90's when I lived north Denver. A nice evening/morning a delight to fly. The shooters earmuffs at Walmart are the best for the engine overhead. Usually 46-4800 rpm for fun flying, zero instruments. Mine came w/band brakes, they work. No nosewheel steering.
I was wondering about cross winds and the best method. As I'm so used to rudder pedals
@SirDrifto They're very much a minimal airplane with a lot of "kite"in them, but they fly! and by gosh in the simplicity of all, that in itself is great. Flew another QS w/Cuyuna, pretty much the same, a B Weedhopper and owned a C Weedhopper. Same theories as the Quick, but sheer dogs with the Chotia engines. Also own a Fisher Koala FP-202. Now we're talking real airplane flight qualities for handling wind and penetration abilities. Powered by a 277 Rotax (28hp) it is accurate to describe it as everything 2/3 scale J-3 Cub ultralight. Nice to be able to close up the cabin. I want to get it up from AZ to Michigan for summer flying. I winter in AZ and keep a Tri Pacer and Pitts S1S in the hangar there. Got a KR-2 I want to re-engine with a Continental. In Michigan I have a Piper Pacer and the Quicksilver up there. Anything flying is so enjoyable. For a living, it was not so much. Too much wrong place/wrong time in the mid 90's. Keep the videos coming, like the content.
That was my first ultralight. The Eipper MXL. It was the easiest to fly and very responsive. I probably had 300 hrs before I moved up to the Phantom/Avenger a full axis aerobatic airplane with a Rotax 503. The pilot was a little ham fisted, but you might want to adjust the coaxial control cable, seemed loose as it took a lot of input to move the airplane. When properly set up, you take off at 35mph and cruise at 55mph. I seriously doubt the engines was taching 8000rpm, the tach meter is not wired right, the actual numbers should be around 5000rpm, cruise at 4200rpm. Have fun.
I have over 800 hours in my MX. The numbers you looked up are garbage. Stall 18mph (14 in ground effect) but these vary a bit with fuel and how big your lunch was.. Curse speed 25 to 32mph. max speed ~45, VNE unreachable. Wide CG range but flies best in balance.
Keep the spoilers, they are nice for hands off flying and can be used with rudder failure can even over power a jammed rudder full left or right. With both spoilers up you can approach at 40 degree glide slope for very short landing distance. Spoilers take better part of a second from input to form a stall bubble for control effect.
Takeoff 80 to 100' (200 to 300 from my grass strip at 5050', 500' @DA8000') Landing 50 to 100'.
X winds get interesting. Be ready to land into the wind, Xwind limit 5mph, fly parallel off the side down wind of runway then turn across over the runway and land into the wind in 40 to 50 feet.
The thing you have to get used to is the skid-roll turns from the 2 axis high dihedral design. You MUST trade off heading for roll and it can feel a bit strange for a GA 3 axis pilot.
Ear plugs and good headset required for noise.
Probably the easiest plane to fly, so slow you have time to think about every move.
"Low and slow" Definition: when you have to climb to make it over then next barb wire fence!
Great advice! Will save these tips. Thank you! 🙏
@@SirDrifto Let me add.... like all untralights the MX has no momentum. Very high drag. This can be a HUGE problem for GA pilots.
The biggest GOTCHYA is an engine failure on climb out!!! ALWAYS be ready to shove the stick forward a bunch to maintain airspeed at the sound of a single missed cylinder firing. In addition to the nose up climb you are pulling back on the stick to offset the nose down moment from the above center of drag thrust line of the high mounted engine at full power. This can go from climb speed to a stall in about a second!!! You won't have time to hesitate and think about an engine failure.
Dead stick glide is like a brick. About 30 degrees nose down to maintain airspeed!! But forced landings are no problem with so low a stall speed. I know from experience!!
Vne unreachable. Haha. That's what I've been told by Brian carpenter. That you can't fly a sprint fast enough to break it. That it goes it's absolute fastest a little past vertical. And he said that's around 70 mph
Are you tapping Morse code
With the stick ? When flying a different type - Always good to get familiarised on a 2 seater.
I was wondering about that elevator action as well😊.
Glad you didn’t die! I had an Mx1 with ailerons and then a Quicksilver MX2 Sprint Put 200 hrs in them then went to flying the certified stuff..learned to fly at KLMO with Dean Spencer.
@@lucianosantucci108 unfortunately the cable tension on the elevator was more slack than I liked and the cg was a bit off. So my inputs were minor but just enough incase it tried to do anything adverse.
Also, that three axis is a MXL meaning its wing has a lower surface making it fly a little faster and the other numbers are a little higher as well.
You’re a lot more brave than me. There’s no way I would have made a maiden takeoff in an unfamiliar plane with another, faster plane turning final behind me. I would’ve waited for that traffic to be down.
I got to see my Cherokee sitting near the fuel farm on your taxi out. That’s cool finding another Erie pilot on YT.
Oh man, very cool. Swing by the hangar sometime and say hello.
nice video love your plane hello from Australia
Thanks for watching!
FAR Part 103 is based on the Quicksilver MX-1 at the time of writing. Weight, fuel capacity, airspeed, stall speed. That's how we got those weird, seemingly arbitrary numbers.
@@lawrence6622 I never knew that. Learned something new today
Just wondering how pitch sensitive the MX is. You were pumping the elevator a lot, as a sailplane pilot I have seen newbies get into pilot induced oscillations on tow.
It was mainly due to the Cg being adversly forward aft causing the plane to pitch down. I was still unsure of its stall characteristics so I i was just trying to find a happy medium. After landing we figured out the cg was off.
When the MX CG is in trim it becomes a nearly hands off flyer. Can fly in calm air by shifting my weight or turn by sticking out an arm or leg. MX flies best with minimal input. Just fly it like a butterfly let it go where the wind takes it and use stick to maintain the general heading.
How do you get permission from land owners and/or airports? Do you have to join a "club" or lease some land? Everyone is so scared of getting sued these days that I'd think one would have to own enough land to do it or it maybe costs so much that the price keeps the average person out of the sport? I live in southern MN and have never seen one flying around here.
@@lectrickwall4479 you have a federal legal right as a pilot to fly out of these airports. If you are ever denied by an airport employee or manager. Call the FAA and they will investigate. We dealt with this with paramotors and airports enough to know how to handle it.
What prop are you using? Did you keep using the ballistic chute?
What's up with the pumping of the elevator in flight on the MX1?
Nervousness, first flight...I get it. His heart would pump peanut butter!
What is the price
Are these discontinued? Looking to get into ultralight in a couple years
@@Adventureoutdoors. I think you pretty much can buy any part for these or Essentially build one new. You see some really good deals on refurbished ones pop up
You can buy them new still. I'm selling a single seat sport for 8500
Interesting, Well Done Gentlemen
Awesome. That’s crazy, hah didn't know those are 2 axis, weird!!
Cross winds are strange but besides that it's great!
When I was 16 I bought a double Eagle canard ultralight with a weight shifting harness and tip drag rudders and a canard with an elevator - it was a hoot, no breaks, no steering on the ground, a Cayuna 430 and a massive wooden prop - taught me how to fly like a Down syndrome bird but once in the air she actually flew well and was very stable, couldn’t stall her but she had a nasty tendency to drift so approaches were a gamble. I had my eye on a Quicksilver but lost out and always regretted it, now in my mid 40s I would love to find one that’s airworthy. I noticed you constantly fighting pitch, is she out of trim perhaps? Rudder work takes on a new meaning in these things.
That's too cool
23:12 you didn't hear him clearly.. he said 253.3 something
Curious: I noticed you "pumping" the stick a lot. What was the reason for that? I am a pilot so use small words.
@@ScottVanArtsdalen well the cg was pretty far off. And it had a tendency to dip nose down. So I was trying to curtail that the best I could. I could of been smoother though.
Scariest aspect to me was having to mix in with several much heavier/faster GA planes.
Full power on climb out until at least pattern altitude .
i think is more difficult to fly using only elevator and ruder.
@@javieruriel in the aircrafts defense, I'm familiar with a 3 axis aircraft and this was 2 axis so it was just a different control feel. Also the CG was a bit off. If I redid the flight. I would choose no cross winds, more even CG, and more familiarization on the 2 axis in cross winds.
What are U doing with Ur yoke arm the continuously pumping back and forth . Unnecessary U have never flown a glider . Just watching Ur arm😮 😮
I DIDN'T DIE Hahahahaha HEY guys what's the cost range?
@@coacoa289 they're pretty affordable $3000-7000
Shit looks squirrelly! Lol
Why the continual shaky-shaky control stick !?!?
I’m a black plane. You’re very hard to see from above. Be careful
35mph of stealth
And there’s really no reason to jerk the controls. You look like your rubbing one out dude. Just be smooth.
Omg…always an expert ready to show how much he knows..
😂 I just spit my coffee out from laughing so hard
Sounds like you’re quite the authority figure on that topic! Give the guy a break it was his first flight.
He's running the controls perfectly, probably a very smooth ride, wheres your plane?
I noticed the constant inputs and was wondering why it was needed. I'm certainly no expert, but have flown almost 30hours in a bocian.
I'd love to read his response, and yes, I do realise it was a new plane/experience and he mentioned some binding. Is ok to throw some stuff around to see what it does right. 👌🏼
Q1 is a grass field UL RESPECT its purpose >…………not good for UL flying
gas overhead 🤔no thanks
Where else would it go?
looks like you have Parkinson's in your right arm are they so unstable to fly?
😆, no unfortunately the cg was off pretty badly so I was just working the controls to stay level.
@@SirDrifto i bet that was fun but it does explain the permanent control movements :)
“Pretty safe aircraft” is not confidence inspiring…