I have a 2003 i parked because the front end was shot, the lower control arm bushings too. Was gonna buy the whole kit, now i can see what i'm up for...thanks !
It’s very important to support the CV axel when you remove it from the knuckle. It can easily pull out of the differential and the joint can fall apart or ruin the oil seal!
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. We also posted the rear video as well if you plan on doing those in the future as well. Good luck on your Honda project, let us know how it goes, Cheers!
Not to be nitpicking but also I did the same mistake, I believe the discs of your brakes are placed wrong. The left disc and right are placed on the opposite side. The slots on your discs should swing outwards when in forward motion. I just placed vented (without slots) on my element and they have been marked to be placed in a particular side. Great video.
Great catch Akira, we didn't even notice the rotors since that wasn't the focus of the video. Truth is these rotors were on the Element when we purchased it so we have never played with them before. Next time we have the wheels off and rotate the tires, we can swap them around so they are facing the proper direction. Thanks again for hanging out, glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage I just recently bought a 2004 Element for my wife and I am checking it all over. I have never owned a Honda before and am having fun doing light repairs on it. I sealed the front window, new tires, new discs, total cleaning, all motor mounts, all filters including the external trans filter. I really like this vehicle. My only gripe is the side/step bar is difficult to reach when dismounting from the back seats. I plan to cut and weld a 1.5 inch extension so the step is further out and safer to use. Thanks for your reply. Subd.
Thanks for the question Aaron, sorry to hear you are having trouble with the axle removal. We would recommend some Penetrating Oil (Kroil - www.kroil.com/product/kroil-original-penetrant/10-oz-can-ks102/) and let it sit for an hour or two. Then you can loosen the axle nut until it is loosened up to the point of being flush with the threads. That way when you tap it with a hammer/sledge you won't damage them. Just try a few light taps at first, if that doesn't loosen it up you will need to get a propane torch and apply some heat. Then after it's nice and hot you can tap it again with the hammer/sledge. The rubber mallet most likely will not provide enough force for it to break loose. Typically you need that metal to metal contact in order to break rusty axles free. Let us know how it goes with the Honda project. Cheers!
Excellent video. Appreciate you were very specific on the torque for the nuts. I'm definitely saving this video because i have to replace all those parts on my element. Plus, I love those rims and tires. Can you give me info on where you purchase them. Want to put those on my car.
Hey Daniel, thanks for the comments. Glad you enjoyed the video, we are confident the video will help you with your Element project. Be sure to check out the rear video as well if you haven't already - ruclips.net/video/1EOSNXjY08w/видео.htmlsi=jGuSOFT9mLT8-QR3 In regards to the wheels, they are KMC KM706 Impact Satin Black in 20x 8.5 +35 Unfortunately we purchased these a few years ago and it looks like KMC in no longer making them. You might be able to locate a used set out there in the wild. Here's a great link that has all of the sizes they made along with the OEM part numbers - www.tiresandwheels.com/catalog.php?cat_id=127&scat_id=6556&c-year=2005&c-make=1087&c-model=Element&c-vid=115518 Here are the offerings from KMC, with the largest being 18". The latest version of the "Impact wheel maxes out at 17". - www.kmcwheels.com/wheels/all-wheels Happy Hunting for those wheels, Cheers!
Thank you so much. Definitely will hunt for those and am going to be replacing these parts next week when i get in the strut assembly, ball joints, and outer tie rod.
Thanks for the question, we have been very happy with the Monroe struts on our Elements. No more squeaks, thumps and creaking coming from all the worn out suspension components. Also, the ride quality is very smooth and feels just like OEM. You will be very happy with them and they are much more affordable than the OEM ones. Those are over $300 for each loaded front strut. The rear shocks are sold by themselves and they are $100 each. Good luck on your Element project, let us know how things go. Cheers!
I replace my front struts following your instructions and everything went fine. But now I’m getting a shaken vibration under acceleration. Is there something I did wrong? Anything you can suggest checking?
Sorry to hear you are having trouble with your Element repair. Our advice would be to get it back in the air again and double check that all bolts are properly tightened. If all the parts are tight then it may be related to your axles or motor mounts. Since there is a lot of torque applied under acceleration, any play will be amplified. Depending on how bad the suspension parts were you may not of noticed the axle vibrations or worn engine mounts before. Here's a simple test to check the engine movement to see how bad the engine mounts are - ruclips.net/video/ei1LeKrl9cw/видео.htmlsi=EGva4ZcBoFJuz1Me&t=18 There is not really a way to check the axles so if those are bad the only signs will be clicking sounds when turned all the way in either direction. If any of the rubber boots are torn or you see evidence of flinging oil from the boot area, then you can safely assume the CV Axles are bad. The last thought would be the transmission mount may be bad. That one you will have to physically inspect to see the condition. Good luck on your Honda project. Cheers!
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Apologies if we didn't mention it in the video, our Element had 183k miles on it when we did the suspension work. Hope the video helps you out with your Honda project. Cheers!
You are in the mileage range and past the age for replacement. But jack it up, place on jack stands, and inspect the parts for yourself. Some of the videos on Elements explain how to tell if your struts are bad. Conduct your search with this verbiage
Aweskme video. The only deviation from this I see is I belive when you torque the bolts, you jack up the lower control arm as if "under load". Doing this all tomorrow and appreciate the mm size call outs.
Thanks for the comments Steve! Since we did not end up needing to swap out the control arms we forgot to mention this point. But you are absolutely correct, it is best to put the control arms under "load" before tightening them since that's where they will be once the car is back on the road. Thanks again for hanging out, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your Element suspension project tomorrow. Cheers!
I'm currently in the market for an Element. Preferable any year/color EX 4WD. From my research on this vehicle, this job is going to have to be done on any Element that I get if the previous owner hadn't already had the work done. Is this correct? As a woman, the second I walk into a mechanic's shop, the price automatically doubles. How am I ever going to trust any NYC mechanic to do this great of a job after seeing this video? LOL! Great job Sir.
Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. You can use our video and the costs of all the parts to try to keep them honest. You could even offer to provide all the parts for the repair and just pay labor. If the shop won't do that, then just keep looking for a shop that will. Typically shops make 50-100% on the parts they sell plus the cost of labor. All the parts we replaced total $387. If you also need to replace the control arms, it would be an additional $102. Just ask for labor quotes and time needed to replace Struts, control arms, tie rod ends and sway bar links. Good luck on your Honda project, let us know how it goes. Cheers!
Awesome! How did it ride with those after market parts? Mine has almost 160k miles and I don’t hear any noises from the suspension yet. However I’m the second owner and not sure if the previous one has done any suspension work already.
Hey Michael, thanks for the question. We have been very happy with the Monroe struts/shocks. They feel like the factory setup and are a ton cheaper than Honda. The previous owner may have done some things or the car could still be doing good. Ours was pushing 200k so things were definitely worn out. Thanks again for hanging out, glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!
Fantastic video. That ball joint separator you're using.... Do you happen to have a link? The one we have doesn't quite fit and we're getting ready to do this whole job next week. Thanks!
Hey Joshua, thanks for the question. We are using the Harbor Freight ball joint separator. Here is the link- www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html Good luck on your Honda project, let us know how it goes. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Will do. Timken bearings and Sankei 555 ball joints showed up today. Going to pick up the hubs from Honda today and waiting for the LCA from Hondapartsnow.... this vid will definitely help. Thanks again 👊🏽
@joshuakramer345 Sounds like you got some great parts in order. This will be a huge transformation from old worn out hardware. Good luck on your Honda project, Cheers!
Thanks for the question Mitch, we are using the older Craftsman digital torque wrench, Model # 13235 Z-AL www.ebay.com/itm/175781983280 The newest model from Craftsman is Model # CMMT99435 www.craftsman.com/products/cmmt99435/3-8-in-drive-digital-torque-wrench It seems like they both offer 5-100 ft lbs of range. Good luck on your search, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage mine only goes to 150 and that axle nut require 181, so I’m in the market for a new one. Did you just take ot passed 100 and call it good? Kinda don’t want to buy a new tool for two nuts
Thanks for the question. Honda doesn't sell a replacement Ball Joint so you either have to go with aftermarket like we did or replace the entire knuckle that comes with the ball joint. The bearing and hub however is sold separate so all (4) pieces are over $400 per side so it really doesn't make sense to go with OEM parts. You can purchase the wheel bearings from Rock Auto for much cheaper than a Honda dealer or website. You shouldn't have to buy a new hub unless yours is damaged and in that case I would grab one from a local wrecking yard. 2003-2005 Knuckle Left (Non-ABS) www.hondafactoryparts.com/oem-parts/honda-knuckle-l-front-51215s9a020 2003-2005 Knuckle Right (Non-ABS) www.hondafactoryparts.com/oem-parts/honda-knuckle-r-front-51210s9a020 2003-2011 Knuckle Left (ABS) www.hondafactoryparts.com/oem-parts/honda-knuckle-l-front-51215scv000 2003-2011 Knuckle Right (ABS) www.hondafactoryparts.com/oem-parts/honda-2003-2011-honda-element-knuckle-r-front-51210scv000 2003-2005 Wheel Bearing (Non-ABS) www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10445060 2003-2011 Wheel Bearing (ABS) www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10445068 Good luck on your Honda Element suspension repair, Cheers!
Also, would love to hear your thoughts on quality of those Monroe quick-struts. Looking to do a whole Element suspension refresh, and the quality of struts is often highly contentious around brands, KYB/Monroe/Gabriel.
Hey Charlie, thanks for the questions. We have been very happy with the Monroe Quick-Strut assembly. It's only been a few thousand miles but the fitment and quality are great as we have had zero issues. Since Honda doesn't sell a replacement Ball Joint, you have to buy the entire knuckle. We went with the Import Direct brand from O'Reilly's, which are usually made by Meyle, Rein, etc. They have a lifetime guarantee so if they fail again in the future you can just get a free pair. We have updated the links in the description to include these - bit.ly/3RxrIFC Good luck on your Element suspension upgrades, Cheers!
Yeah, you have a lot more parts that get worn out in the front versus the rear. It's a good idea to just replace everything while you are in there, since everything is apart. Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
Hey Dent, thanks for the question. There isn't a brake pad sensor on the Honda Element. You have to inspect them periodically in order to determine how much pad is left. Hope this helps, Cheers!
@@DentWS Sorry Dent, our particular model did not have the ABS option, so we were unable to film that part. Here is a good video though that shows you that part step by step - ruclips.net/video/XhDG8pjOMqY/видео.html Hope this helps you with your Honda Element repair. Let us know how it goes. Cheers!
I turn wrench for 30 years and DON"T USE a torch on steering parts if your plaining on reusing them !!! They have plastics inside of the cup and if use heat they will be damaged and can fail when driving !! The person that performed the work will be on the hook for this bad work! Rock Auto has no support and no warranty from them I just want to help people from my problems with Rock Auto
Thanks for the feedback Elizabeth, we try to show each step along the process. Apologies if we went too fast through some parts. Trying to balance the video flow and overall video length, which was already over 35 minutes. Cheers!
I have a 2003 i parked because the front end was shot, the lower control arm bushings too. Was gonna buy the whole kit, now i can see what i'm up for...thanks !
Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your Honda project, let us know how it goes. Cheers!
One of the best instructional video. Concisely demonstrated. Well done.
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your Honda project.
Cheers!
Great video. I just did a strut, ball joint, and axle. You torque values were especially helpful.
Thanks for the kind words, glad the video helped with your Honda project.
Cheers!
It’s very important to support the CV axel when you remove it from the knuckle. It can easily pull out of the differential and the joint can fall apart or ruin the oil seal!
Thanks for the tip, appreciate the feedback.
Cheers!
Great instructions! my brother is wanting me do this on his element. Looks esay enough. Thanks
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. We also posted the rear video as well if you plan on doing those in the future as well.
Good luck on your Honda project, let us know how it goes,
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage I have also watched that one just in case.
@rwelderby Sounds great, thanks again for hanging out. Cheers!
Not to be nitpicking but also I did the same mistake, I believe the discs of your brakes are placed wrong. The left disc and right are placed on the opposite side. The slots on your discs should swing outwards when in forward motion. I just placed vented (without slots) on my element and they have been marked to be placed in a particular side. Great video.
Great catch Akira, we didn't even notice the rotors since that wasn't the focus of the video.
Truth is these rotors were on the Element when we purchased it so we have never played with them before. Next time we have the wheels off and rotate the tires, we can swap them around so they are facing the proper direction.
Thanks again for hanging out, glad you enjoyed the video.
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage I just recently bought a 2004 Element for my wife and I am checking it all over. I have never owned a Honda before and am having fun doing light repairs on it. I sealed the front window, new tires, new discs, total cleaning, all motor mounts, all filters including the external trans filter. I really like this vehicle. My only gripe is the side/step bar is difficult to reach when dismounting from the back seats. I plan to cut and weld a 1.5 inch extension so the step is further out and safer to use. Thanks for your reply. Subd.
Excellent detailed tutorial; Thank you
Thanks for the kind words Marianne, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your Honda project, let us know how it goes.
Cheers!
we are having a heck of a time with getting the half shaft out of the knuckle - any tips beyond rubber hammer? thanks - this video is super helpful!!
Thanks for the question Aaron, sorry to hear you are having trouble with the axle removal. We would recommend some Penetrating Oil (Kroil - www.kroil.com/product/kroil-original-penetrant/10-oz-can-ks102/) and let it sit for an hour or two.
Then you can loosen the axle nut until it is loosened up to the point of being flush with the threads. That way when you tap it with a hammer/sledge you won't damage them. Just try a few light taps at first, if that doesn't loosen it up you will need to get a propane torch and apply some heat. Then after it's nice and hot you can tap it again with the hammer/sledge.
The rubber mallet most likely will not provide enough force for it to break loose. Typically you need that metal to metal contact in order to break rusty axles free.
Let us know how it goes with the Honda project. Cheers!
thank you! we got it! now on to a crazy stuck ball joint @@BradleysGarage
Extremely helpful!!! Great details. Thank you also for sharing the parts list.
Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your Honda project.
Cheers!
Excellent video. Appreciate you were very specific on the torque for the nuts. I'm definitely saving this video because i have to replace all those parts on my element. Plus, I love those rims and tires. Can you give me info on where you purchase them. Want to put those on my car.
Hey Daniel, thanks for the comments. Glad you enjoyed the video, we are confident the video will help you with your Element project. Be sure to check out the rear video as well if you haven't already - ruclips.net/video/1EOSNXjY08w/видео.htmlsi=jGuSOFT9mLT8-QR3
In regards to the wheels, they are KMC KM706 Impact Satin Black in 20x 8.5 +35
Unfortunately we purchased these a few years ago and it looks like KMC in no longer making them. You might be able to locate a used set out there in the wild.
Here's a great link that has all of the sizes they made along with the OEM part numbers - www.tiresandwheels.com/catalog.php?cat_id=127&scat_id=6556&c-year=2005&c-make=1087&c-model=Element&c-vid=115518
Here are the offerings from KMC, with the largest being 18". The latest version of the "Impact wheel maxes out at 17". - www.kmcwheels.com/wheels/all-wheels
Happy Hunting for those wheels, Cheers!
Thank you so much. Definitely will hunt for those and am going to be replacing these parts next week when i get in the strut assembly, ball joints, and outer tie rod.
@@danielcarvajal5477 Good luck on your Honda project, let us know how things go.
Cheers!
Great instructional video. Thanks for this.
Thanks for the comments Karl, appreciate the feedback. Good luck on your project, Cheers!
Thanks for the video. It is very detailed and helpful.
Appreciate the feedback Tony, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your Honda Element repairs. Cheers!
How are the Monroe struts holding up? I don't need a perfect ride, just need to replace the original OEM struts that are worn out.
Thanks for the question, we have been very happy with the Monroe struts on our Elements. No more squeaks, thumps and creaking coming from all the worn out suspension components.
Also, the ride quality is very smooth and feels just like OEM. You will be very happy with them and they are much more affordable than the OEM ones. Those are over $300 for each loaded front strut. The rear shocks are sold by themselves and they are $100 each.
Good luck on your Element project, let us know how things go. Cheers!
I replace my front struts following your instructions and everything went fine. But now I’m getting a shaken vibration under acceleration. Is there something I did wrong? Anything you can suggest checking?
Sorry to hear you are having trouble with your Element repair. Our advice would be to get it back in the air again and double check that all bolts are properly tightened. If all the parts are tight then it may be related to your axles or motor mounts. Since there is a lot of torque applied under acceleration, any play will be amplified. Depending on how bad the suspension parts were you may not of noticed the axle vibrations or worn engine mounts before.
Here's a simple test to check the engine movement to see how bad the engine mounts are - ruclips.net/video/ei1LeKrl9cw/видео.htmlsi=EGva4ZcBoFJuz1Me&t=18
There is not really a way to check the axles so if those are bad the only signs will be clicking sounds when turned all the way in either direction. If any of the rubber boots are torn or you see evidence of flinging oil from the boot area, then you can safely assume the CV Axles are bad.
The last thought would be the transmission mount may be bad. That one you will have to physically inspect to see the condition.
Good luck on your Honda project.
Cheers!
Wish I knew how many miles this element had. Mine is a 2011 at 150,000 miles and I think I am having these issues. Great job
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Apologies if we didn't mention it in the video, our Element had 183k miles on it when we did the suspension work. Hope the video helps you out with your Honda project.
Cheers!
You are in the mileage range and past the age for replacement. But jack it up, place on jack stands, and inspect the parts for yourself. Some of the videos on Elements explain how to tell if your struts are bad. Conduct your search with this verbiage
Aweskme video. The only deviation from this I see is I belive when you torque the bolts, you jack up the lower control arm as if "under load". Doing this all tomorrow and appreciate the mm size call outs.
Thanks for the comments Steve! Since we did not end up needing to swap out the control arms we forgot to mention this point. But you are absolutely correct, it is best to put the control arms under "load" before tightening them since that's where they will be once the car is back on the road.
Thanks again for hanging out, glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck on your Element suspension project tomorrow. Cheers!
Same applies when replacing struts and sway bar links
I'm currently in the market for an Element. Preferable any year/color EX 4WD. From my research on this vehicle, this job is going to have to be done on any Element that I get if the previous owner hadn't already had the work done. Is this correct? As a woman, the second I walk into a mechanic's shop, the price automatically doubles. How am I ever going to trust any NYC mechanic to do this great of a job after seeing this video? LOL! Great job Sir.
Thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed the video. You can use our video and the costs of all the parts to try to keep them honest. You could even offer to provide all the parts for the repair and just pay labor. If the shop won't do that, then just keep looking for a shop that will. Typically shops make 50-100% on the parts they sell plus the cost of labor.
All the parts we replaced total $387. If you also need to replace the control arms, it would be an additional $102. Just ask for labor quotes and time needed to replace Struts, control arms, tie rod ends and sway bar links.
Good luck on your Honda project, let us know how it goes.
Cheers!
Very well done video 🎉 very helpful.
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!
Awesome! How did it ride with those after market parts? Mine has almost 160k miles and I don’t hear any noises from the suspension yet. However I’m the second owner and not sure if the previous one has done any suspension work already.
Hey Michael, thanks for the question. We have been very happy with the Monroe struts/shocks. They feel like the factory setup and are a ton cheaper than Honda. The previous owner may have done some things or the car could still be doing good.
Ours was pushing 200k so things were definitely worn out. Thanks again for hanging out, glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!
Fantastic video. That ball joint separator you're using.... Do you happen to have a link? The one we have doesn't quite fit and we're getting ready to do this whole job next week. Thanks!
Hey Joshua, thanks for the question. We are using the Harbor Freight ball joint separator.
Here is the link- www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html
Good luck on your Honda project, let us know how it goes. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage Will do. Timken bearings and Sankei 555 ball joints showed up today. Going to pick up the hubs from Honda today and waiting for the LCA from Hondapartsnow.... this vid will definitely help. Thanks again 👊🏽
@joshuakramer345 Sounds like you got some great parts in order. This will be a huge transformation from old worn out hardware. Good luck on your Honda project, Cheers!
What torque wrench are you using?
Thanks for the question Mitch, we are using the older Craftsman digital torque wrench, Model # 13235 Z-AL
www.ebay.com/itm/175781983280
The newest model from Craftsman is Model # CMMT99435
www.craftsman.com/products/cmmt99435/3-8-in-drive-digital-torque-wrench
It seems like they both offer 5-100 ft lbs of range.
Good luck on your search, Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage mine only goes to 150 and that axle nut require 181, so I’m in the market for a new one. Did you just take ot passed 100 and call it good? Kinda don’t want to buy a new tool for two nuts
Can you buy that hub assy with the new ball joint and wheel bearing assy?
Thanks for the question. Honda doesn't sell a replacement Ball Joint so you either have to go with aftermarket like we did or replace the entire knuckle that comes with the ball joint. The bearing and hub however is sold separate so all (4) pieces are over $400 per side so it really doesn't make sense to go with OEM parts.
You can purchase the wheel bearings from Rock Auto for much cheaper than a Honda dealer or website. You shouldn't have to buy a new hub unless yours is damaged and in that case I would grab one from a local wrecking yard.
2003-2005 Knuckle Left (Non-ABS)
www.hondafactoryparts.com/oem-parts/honda-knuckle-l-front-51215s9a020
2003-2005 Knuckle Right (Non-ABS)
www.hondafactoryparts.com/oem-parts/honda-knuckle-r-front-51210s9a020
2003-2011 Knuckle Left (ABS)
www.hondafactoryparts.com/oem-parts/honda-knuckle-l-front-51215scv000
2003-2011 Knuckle Right (ABS)
www.hondafactoryparts.com/oem-parts/honda-2003-2011-honda-element-knuckle-r-front-51210scv000
2003-2005 Wheel Bearing (Non-ABS)
www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10445060
2003-2011 Wheel Bearing (ABS)
www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10445068
Good luck on your Honda Element suspension repair, Cheers!
What ball joint did you go with?
Also, would love to hear your thoughts on quality of those Monroe quick-struts. Looking to do a whole Element suspension refresh, and the quality of struts is often highly contentious around brands, KYB/Monroe/Gabriel.
Hey Charlie, thanks for the questions. We have been very happy with the Monroe Quick-Strut assembly. It's only been a few thousand miles but the fitment and quality are great as we have had zero issues.
Since Honda doesn't sell a replacement Ball Joint, you have to buy the entire knuckle. We went with the Import Direct brand from O'Reilly's, which are usually made by Meyle, Rein, etc. They have a lifetime guarantee so if they fail again in the future you can just get a free pair.
We have updated the links in the description to include these - bit.ly/3RxrIFC
Good luck on your Element suspension upgrades, Cheers!
Front is a bit more involved for sure.
Yeah, you have a lot more parts that get worn out in the front versus the rear. It's a good idea to just replace everything while you are in there, since everything is apart.
Thanks again for hanging out, Cheers!
Brake sensor removal, anyone?
Hey Dent, thanks for the question. There isn't a brake pad sensor on the Honda Element. You have to inspect them periodically in order to determine how much pad is left. Hope this helps, Cheers!
Named it wrong...the wheel speed sensor@@BradleysGarage
@@BradleysGarage There is a sensor, maybe its the abs sensor that goes into the wheel hub...seen it mentioned on a few videos.
@@DentWS Sorry Dent, our particular model did not have the ABS option, so we were unable to film that part.
Here is a good video though that shows you that part step by step - ruclips.net/video/XhDG8pjOMqY/видео.html
Hope this helps you with your Honda Element repair. Let us know how it goes. Cheers!
You don’t need to remove the sensor. Just remove the bolt that holds the cable, that should give you enough slack to move the knuckle out of the way
I turn wrench for 30 years and DON"T USE a torch on steering parts if your plaining on reusing them !!! They have plastics inside of the cup and if use heat they will be damaged and can fail when driving !! The person that performed the work will be on the hook for this bad work! Rock Auto has no support and no warranty from them I just want to help people from my problems with Rock Auto
Thanks for the comments John, appreciate the feedback on RockAuto and their warranties. Cheers!
Jumping around a lot. For non-mechanics, a little frustrating.
Thanks for the feedback Elizabeth, we try to show each step along the process. Apologies if we went too fast through some parts. Trying to balance the video flow and overall video length, which was already over 35 minutes.
Cheers!