Sundown E10 D2, is legit. $160 10 inch. 400 watt amp it sounds good and smooth and probably can cause hearing damage, that's why I'm turning it down a bit.
98% of audio systems are not tuned correctly. There’s many steps before buying equipment sound deadening, adding foam to your doors speakers for acoustic wave control etc. those JBLs are amazing this is facts. From an sq fanatic I can attest they’re 🔥 I treated my gfs Lexus stock system with an aftermarket stereo with eq and I made the sound full and people can’t believe they’re stock. SQ over SPL
I'm doing research on building a SQ system for my Crown vic. I love clean clear audio,the kind that you could swim in. I'll leave the brain rattling bass to the kids
@@silverback8183 yup before I move there was one guy who have amazing sound system in the area his bass is heavy asf, I wish I still live in the area hearing that system drive by almost everyday
The Dayton DSP introduced noise into my system I had to get rid of it. Also the Taramps Bass 400 and TS 400x4 are $79.99 each on Amazon. CDT audio has monthly sales on 2 way components around $100 that beats anything that JBL or any other mainstream brand can get close to.
@CarAudioEnthusiasts gotcha. Parts Express never mentioned that to me. I'm running the Audison APF 8.9 bit amplifier now, and it's a great replacement for the price.
If on a budget for a sq 5 channel, I'd go with the polk audio pad5000.5. It has a s/n 105db. I have a ds18 exl p800x4, s/n 90db and it's a great class ab amp with clip indicator on the nob and front and rear clip light. The only reason I'd consider switching to the polk is because it's a class d more efficient and less noise. My deafbonce apocalypse atom plus aap 1600.1d is a very strong amp, and no fans doesn't even get hot. The deafbonce amp has no fans, so it's silent vs. the 2000.1d, version which does have a fan. The ds18 4 channel fan is loud and distracting behind my seat so I'd prefer the polk at some point. I believe it's also fanless.
I'm going to try a speaker/amp build using powerbass products. 3way components passive crossovers! Basic JVC head unit and what I think is going to be the icing on the cake will be a three.2 eq from audio control. P300 Rockford powered sub in a f150.
I am trying to piece together a budget audio setup in my Silverado. So far I haven't gotten too far into buidling it. Last month I swapped out my factory head unit for an Alpine ILX-W650. The main factor for going with this unit, which has been out for several years now, and considered to be fairly bare bones as far as bells and whistles go, is that they make a power pack specifically for this head unit, the KTA-450, 4×50 watts RMS. Not especially mind blowing, but enough to push a good set of mids and highs. Ended up going with Alpine S-65 coaxials for the rear fill and the S-65C components for my front door speakers and mounted the tweets in the factory location in the pillars. I know Alpine isnt considered top shelf or elite, probsbly mid tier at best, but I think they sound amazing, and rated @80 watts RMS each, they pair well with the head unit/power pack combo. Saved me the trouble of having to purchase and wire up a 4 channel amp and still sounds great, at least to me. I listened to more expensive component sets from JL Audio, Memphis, Hertz, Kicker, etc. and for the price point, the Alpine S-65C's sounded the best to me for my budget, which was 150 or less for each pair of door speakers. Got the components for 130 and coaxials for 110 so 240 plus tax for all my speakers, and ended up running across a deal on the ILX-W650/KTA-450 head unit/power pack combo. By the time I added up all these products, plus the dash kit, wire harness/interface system, dynamat, FAST rings, etc., I'm still under $1000 invested so far. I do plan on adding a DSP, will look into the Dayton unit you had mentioned. Also will add an amp, likely a monoblock since I wont need a 4 channel to power my mids and highs. Probably will go with a single or dual 10" subs. Need something that fits under my rear seat so space is fairly limited. May have to check out Harmony amps and subs, not very familiar with the brand but I've been out of car audio for almost 2 decades so I have a lot to catch up on.
sounds like a great setup! the alpine type S speakers the new ones basically got the last gen type R specs. theyre solid man. check out the powered subs, with the power youre running, they would likely be perfect for your setup. alpine makes some good ones, as does KIcker.
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts I'll be sure to check those out. I've been very impressed with the Alpine mids and highs thus far. I'd love to find a powered subwoofer, that would eliminate having to figure out which amp to push it, plus the box is likely built to spec so wouldn't have to fabricate an enclosure for it. I'm not a fan of pre fabbed boxes as they are rarely the proper airspace for said subwoofer.
Gonna be testing these next. RECOIL MS65-4P 6.5-Inch Midrange Pro Audio Car Speakers, 600 Watts Max, 300 Watts RMS, 4Ohm, 1.5-Inch High Temperature Kapton Voice Coil, Premium Quality Car Audio Door Speakers (Pair) a.co/d/clFHwtV
What if I "can't" do a headunit because my car has integrated AC controls and the only choices for aftermarket are either 1. Chinesium integrated 10" display Android OS replacements with (reportedly from manufacturer) low voltage RCAs 2. A FAR too expensive ($280-$360) semi-integrated replacement from best buy that gives me a double din slot where it needs to be and more likely reliable hvac controls (but less impressive looking than the 10" screen stuff, tbh, and can't even fit a floating 8-10" single or double din because the hvac controls are above instead of below) 3. Lose my bottom cubby storage to have a double din slot and therefore "two radios" in my car, which is impractical and looks stupid as hell. Car is a 2003 Accord, for reference.
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts Yeah.... Just about the only thing I could think to want an actual headunit for in this application would be my steering wheel controls and making calls... Can a BT-DSP do that?
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts Well I assume I'd just be able to use the phone, lol, but I meant with a mic from the unit/dsp rather than my phone's mic because I already know that's going out. And yeah, yeah, I should just buy a new phone right now, but I'm way tighter on money at the moment than $500 for the system or even $150-$200 for a new phone (I don't do contract/provider locked phones or payments on phones, learned that lesson the hard way)
Hello , I have a question. In my Volkswagen Passat living in Arizona where its like a furnace in the trunk. Would you mount a DSP under the seat , or in the trunk? My amp will be in the trunk. What are your thoughts on this...
dsp can go anywhere, and theres no advantages to a location, other than being able to easily plug in a laptop to it, or if it has a bluetooth connection, locating it close to the amps, means less chance of picking up noise
I can get 90% off Sony ES and other Sony items. I’m having trouble finding speakers from them that fit my doors and rear panel. Do you think I can pull off a set in doors and tweets in dash from them on my 01 Cabrio? Found some Polks that can fit in the rear with some massaging. $177 for 10” sub and box set up. Everything else 90%. Pretty huge.
Thanks for this video. I've considered simplifying my system by going with a Sony XM-GS6DSP. Do you think it's worth it over a more featured, but more complex independent DSP and amp combo?
i mean im running the sony 9000ES (double din version of the 9500) and i noticed a massive uplift in sound quality plus i get apple car play. honestly amazing upgrade
Wish you made this video before I got started with my build 😂
Sundown E10 D2, is legit. $160 10 inch.
400 watt amp it sounds good and smooth and probably can cause hearing damage, that's why I'm turning it down a bit.
Awesome video. I have always been a budget minded guy. I have always enjoyed quality sound over what name is on the shipping box
Right on!
98% of audio systems are not tuned correctly. There’s many steps before buying equipment sound deadening, adding foam to your doors speakers for acoustic wave control etc. those JBLs are amazing this is facts. From an sq fanatic I can attest they’re 🔥 I treated my gfs Lexus stock system with an aftermarket stereo with eq and I made the sound full and people can’t believe they’re stock. SQ over SPL
I'm doing research on building a SQ system for my Crown vic.
I love clean clear audio,the kind that you could swim in. I'll leave the brain rattling bass to the kids
@@silverback8183 yup before I move there was one guy who have amazing sound system in the area his bass is heavy asf, I wish I still live in the area hearing that system drive by almost everyday
The Dayton DSP introduced noise into my system I had to get rid of it. Also the Taramps Bass 400 and TS 400x4 are $79.99 each on Amazon. CDT audio has monthly sales on 2 way components around $100 that beats anything that JBL or any other mainstream brand can get close to.
yea, Dayton can introduce noise, but its not entirely the Dayton's fault. it just doesn't reject the noise as well as others.
@CarAudioEnthusiasts gotcha. Parts Express never mentioned that to me. I'm running the Audison APF 8.9 bit amplifier now, and it's a great replacement for the price.
@@OriginalWis very nice!
If on a budget for a sq 5 channel, I'd go with the polk audio pad5000.5. It has a s/n 105db. I have a ds18 exl p800x4, s/n 90db and it's a great class ab amp with clip indicator on the nob and front and rear clip light. The only reason I'd consider switching to the polk is because it's a class d more efficient and less noise. My deafbonce apocalypse atom plus aap 1600.1d is a very strong amp, and no fans doesn't even get hot. The deafbonce amp has no fans, so it's silent vs. the 2000.1d, version which does have a fan. The ds18 4 channel fan is loud and distracting behind my seat so I'd prefer the polk at some point. I believe it's also fanless.
I'm going to try a speaker/amp build using powerbass products. 3way components passive crossovers! Basic JVC head unit and what I think is going to be the icing on the cake will be a three.2 eq from audio control. P300 Rockford powered sub in a f150.
Good info. In my opinion, wouldn't suggest buying a amplifier kit. Buy everything separately so you can have extra just in case you want to upgrade
never heard the "Bob is your uncle." line. i do not know if there is a reference to the line here? but that's hilarious. i lost it.
lol, heard it as a kid
I am trying to piece together a budget audio setup in my Silverado. So far I haven't gotten too far into buidling it. Last month I swapped out my factory head unit for an Alpine ILX-W650. The main factor for going with this unit, which has been out for several years now, and considered to be fairly bare bones as far as bells and whistles go, is that they make a power pack specifically for this head unit, the KTA-450, 4×50 watts RMS. Not especially mind blowing, but enough to push a good set of mids and highs.
Ended up going with Alpine S-65 coaxials for the rear fill and the S-65C components for my front door speakers and mounted the tweets in the factory location in the pillars. I know Alpine isnt considered top shelf or elite, probsbly mid tier at best, but I think they sound amazing, and rated @80 watts RMS each, they pair well with the head unit/power pack combo. Saved me the trouble of having to purchase and wire up a 4 channel amp and still sounds great, at least to me.
I listened to more expensive component sets from JL Audio, Memphis, Hertz, Kicker, etc. and for the price point, the Alpine S-65C's sounded the best to me for my budget, which was 150 or less for each pair of door speakers. Got the components for 130 and coaxials for 110 so 240 plus tax for all my speakers, and ended up running across a deal on the ILX-W650/KTA-450 head unit/power pack combo. By the time I added up all these products, plus the dash kit, wire harness/interface system, dynamat, FAST rings, etc., I'm still under $1000 invested so far. I do plan on adding a DSP, will look into the Dayton unit you had mentioned.
Also will add an amp, likely a monoblock since I wont need a 4 channel to power my mids and highs. Probably will go with a single or dual 10" subs. Need something that fits under my rear seat so space is fairly limited. May have to check out Harmony amps and subs, not very familiar with the brand but I've been out of car audio for almost 2 decades so I have a lot to catch up on.
sounds like a great setup! the alpine type S speakers the new ones basically got the last gen type R specs. theyre solid man. check out the powered subs, with the power youre running, they would likely be perfect for your setup. alpine makes some good ones, as does KIcker.
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts I'll be sure to check those out. I've been very impressed with the Alpine mids and highs thus far. I'd love to find a powered subwoofer, that would eliminate having to figure out which amp to push it, plus the box is likely built to spec so wouldn't have to fabricate an enclosure for it. I'm not a fan of pre fabbed boxes as they are rarely the proper airspace for said subwoofer.
Keep up the videos! I learn so much from you!
Gonna be testing these next. RECOIL MS65-4P 6.5-Inch Midrange Pro Audio Car Speakers, 600 Watts Max, 300 Watts RMS, 4Ohm, 1.5-Inch High Temperature Kapton Voice Coil, Premium Quality Car Audio Door Speakers (Pair) a.co/d/clFHwtV
What if I "can't" do a headunit because my car has integrated AC controls and the only choices for aftermarket are either
1. Chinesium integrated 10" display Android OS replacements with (reportedly from manufacturer) low voltage RCAs
2. A FAR too expensive ($280-$360) semi-integrated replacement from best buy that gives me a double din slot where it needs to be and more likely reliable hvac controls (but less impressive looking than the 10" screen stuff, tbh, and can't even fit a floating 8-10" single or double din because the hvac controls are above instead of below)
3. Lose my bottom cubby storage to have a double din slot and therefore "two radios" in my car, which is impractical and looks stupid as hell.
Car is a 2003 Accord, for reference.
just use a bluetooth amplifier, or DSP and skip the stereo
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts Yeah.... Just about the only thing I could think to want an actual headunit for in this application would be my steering wheel controls and making calls... Can a BT-DSP do that?
@@Drunken_Hamster well you could keep the phone call function,
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts Well I assume I'd just be able to use the phone, lol, but I meant with a mic from the unit/dsp rather than my phone's mic because I already know that's going out. And yeah, yeah, I should just buy a new phone right now, but I'm way tighter on money at the moment than $500 for the system or even $150-$200 for a new phone (I don't do contract/provider locked phones or payments on phones, learned that lesson the hard way)
@@Drunken_Hamster use the factory stereo for the phone calls, and youre good
Hello , I have a question.
In my Volkswagen Passat living in Arizona where its like a furnace in the trunk. Would you mount a DSP under the seat , or in the trunk? My amp will be in the trunk. What are your thoughts on this...
dsp can go anywhere, and theres no advantages to a location, other than being able to easily plug in a laptop to it, or if it has a bluetooth connection, locating it close to the amps, means less chance of picking up noise
thank you.
Can I use that Dayton with my gmc Yukon android radio
IM not sure, if it has speaker level inputs "High Level Inputs you can, i cant recall the specs, its been a bit.
I can get 90% off Sony ES and other Sony items. I’m having trouble finding speakers from them that fit my doors and rear panel. Do you think I can pull off a set in doors and tweets in dash from them on my 01 Cabrio? Found some Polks that can fit in the rear with some massaging. $177 for 10” sub and box set up. Everything else 90%. Pretty huge.
check for fitment at crutchfield.com, thats where i would go.
@@CarAudioEnthusiasts it never said anything but pretty much amps are doable
Well stated. Thanks for the info
glad to be of help!
Well said my guy
Thanks for this video. I've considered simplifying my system by going with a Sony XM-GS6DSP. Do you think it's worth it over a more featured, but more complex independent DSP and amp combo?
i mean im running the sony 9000ES (double din version of the 9500) and i noticed a massive uplift in sound quality plus i get apple car play. honestly amazing upgrade
having individual components offers easier upgrade paths later. but some combos are very very good, so it's a toss-up.