So there’s a lot of info out there. And some things have changed since I made the video. Apparently there is now some info saying don’t use alcohol on the creality carborundum glass plate. I don’t know how accurate that is. (I don’t have one). I do know I now have 5 glass plates and have been using this along with an occasional hot water/dish soap scrub without issue on my plates. Point is, do a little digging and find a method that that works best for you and your setup. Happy printing!
I just spritz straight ISO, Acetone was great for getting the hairspray off when I was using it, but I found adjusting the Z offset (use a skirt and adjust on the fly) , is the best way to get perfect adhesion. I thought it was silly at first, but I don't have to re-level hardly ever. My machine is not consistent on the Z point, but its no issue after a 5 second adjustment at the beginning of the print. Also, on 15+ hour prints, I use a brim and then a few tiny strips of Polyimide tape to keep it from lifting on those super long prints. I haven't had one pop off in a few months.
Thank you. I couldn't get anything to stick to my bed, even after soap water, alcohol rub, Windex anything. Finally took it to the sink one last time scrubbed it like crazy with dawn a few times. I then dried it off, Put it back on the machine, made sure not to touch it with my fingers then turned up the bed heat for a little bit. Ran a test print and finally it STUCK... Waiting till it fully cooled down and I was able to barely touch the prints and they fell right over. It's been amazing since then. I will use this now between prints. I've only found one thing that will not stick well is this spool of Color Changing Filament. I have to use a Glue Stick or it will just drag around. I've got PLA+ printing now perfectly with nothing extra. Thank you.
Thank you for the video. I looked at your video history and you stopped posting for a year. That is too bad. I hope more videos will be posted this year.
Yes sir. I got busy with life and let the printers sit for a bit. We’ve started printing again recently. I do have a couple ideas for possible videos. So we’ll see…. Thanks for commenting. It inspires me to want to make more.
I read the description and felt I should add my opinion. I liked the video intro, I’m about to give the solution a try in preparation for my first print.
I used gyeon ( a body prep for painting) and 90% alcohol both worked well cleaning the glass. The problem I had was that the prints stuck so hard I would have smack the print with the scrapper handle. Now I see that soap is recommended. I solved that by replacing the glass with a Pei sheet, and haven't looked back. But thanks for the soap trick
Yeaaaaa . I had the ender 3 v2 for 2 years now. Went through 11 kilograms of filament and I haven't cleaned the bed once. The amount of residue on it is beyond me. The only reason I've been looking to clean it is cause I just got a cr touch and I want UBL to be precise
I’ve had the best luck cleaning my Ender 3v2 ved with a damp paper towel, then drying it with a clean paper towel. This has worked better for me than alcohol or soap & water.
My prints are ridiculously hard to get off the glass bed on my ender 3 neo. Does this mean I'm to close to the bed on my z offset? My ender 3 pro has a magnetic bed and like that so much more
Hi Brian, my son's new Ender 3 Max has the same bed surface. How do you clean the residue pla that sometimes sticks to the surface? The metal scraper that comes with it doesn't seem the right thing to use as I expect it will scratch the surface.
I think people try glue stick and hair spray etc because the bed doesnt want to hold on to the print because of touching it or even dust or a layer of film the print likes to leave behind, and the easy solution is to just wash it with water and soap and it sticks like new, this also applies to just bare glass, PLA stick very well to just glass as well if never touched and is clean. I also use IPA and water, does the soap matter? I will try with a bit soap in it as well to try out next time. I suggest to never use other methods than IPA, water and or soap because its a coating and that coating will and can get damaged, my first bed was ruined by acetone because it had cooked on clue on it (I bought my printer second hand), so I never ever use acetone on the bed again and just stick with IPA and water.
@@garden0fstone736 ipa - alcohol, I do t wash it that often actually, I just don’t touch my build plate. I recently switched to a flex plate (PEI) but I never had problems with bed adhesion. This actually goes for all bed surfaces, just do not touch it at all is best. If it does not stick just make sure your first layer is low enough and wash the plate with soapy water and that’s it. But in short : I wash it when my layer comes loose and next print is perfect again
@@Retro_Care cool I have two dogs and a lot of dog hair. Should I just wipe it down with a microfiber before every print to make sure there is none on the table?
Awesome video, going to try it now! Do you have an STL for that Pi Camera mount? I've been using a bent coat hanger, and have been looking for a better solution
Another newby to printing, just got a Ender 3 V2. Although everyone seems to validate this works, I have a concern. Knowing rubbing alcohol can strip finish/paint off metal - even slightly diluted .... I am leery thinking this might strip something off that coating/finish on the bed
Super...I was concerned with the cleaning...I use a 3D printer at work but glass bed with blue tape and removing the adhesive requires high percentage IPA and the instructions with the printer state not to clean with IPA as it may damage the surface of the special glass
This did not work for me. I found acetone removed filiment traces that stick to the bed. I then wipe with IPO and it keeps the coated glass like new. No more shadows of the print was.
Thank you for the video I recently cleaned my bed with isopropyl alcohol as some suggested to do so I did that n now it sticks like rock And can’t get it off the bed 😬 Do you suggest anything Have I ruined the bed surface?
No, you haven’t ruined it. I still use IPA sometimes (in fact last night I washed the bed in the sink, and then used 91%). Definitely makes it stick really well. First suggestion I have is patience. Let the bed cool completely and the part should come off. You can also artificially cool the bed, by sticking it in the refrigerator for a few minutes for example. One cool night my son just put his bed outside when a part wouldn’t come off. And finally, you could apply some alcohol around the base of the part where it meets the bed. It should pop right off, but I haven’t tried this personally, but other people and science tell me it works. Yay science!
My man, that's great for dishes and dust particles, does nothing on my Ender 3V2 bed to remove markings from previous prints... The video is funny, tough. Cheers!
I see a lot of comments here and for other videos that say not to use alcohol on this bed. I have the same glass bed on my Ender 3 Max. The manual says, and I quote " Use glass cleaner or isopropyl alcohol to clean the surface before every print for consistent results"
Yep. On my Voxelab printer, it has a clone of the Ender 3 v2 bed that came stock. I just use Windex. However, I made a mistake and used glue stick, which pulled off the coating on the rough side.
@@tempestandacomputer6951 I really don't recommend any adhesives on the glass bed, both the rough side or the smooth side. What I recommend instead is going with a PEI flex bed. With the PEI bed, all I have to do is make sure the bed is leveled and my prints stick every time, no more adhesives.
What is the best way to remove the outlines of prior prints from the glass bed? Can I up the bed temp to 110 can scrape the now soft plastic or is there a better way? I use your method for keeping oil, dust and other debris off before prints.
did you ever find a solution by chance? Newbie here and I'm having the same issue. I'm thinking I need to remove bed and wash under hot water but if that doesn't fix then feels like wasted time..
@@nickhernandez4264 i had scratched the hell out of my bed during a leveling process so I had to replace. Never found a great solution other than using the scraper while the bed was still warm and using alcohol to wipe it down
Followed this "recipe" to fix a mild bed-adhesion issue. The mixture in this video made the problem significantly worse. Tried to knock back the dish soap, and still nothing. Now I just have to figure out how to unfuck my printer. Thanks.
That’s a bummer. Sounds like you have a different issue though. I use this mix on three different printers with no problem. Are you using isopropyl alcohol without any additives? What kind of dish soap are you using? Make sure it doesn’t have any additives to soften hands or anything like that. Regardless, if this cleaning solution concerns you it’s easy enough to rule out with either warm soapy water or straight ipa. Good luck. Hope you find the root of your issue.
If you have a Ender 3 V2 glass board with Carborundum coating, the 'official' advice from Creality is 'just' plain water. It sucks that people give advice to use all kinds of chemicals like alcohol (and because in most mixes of alcohol you can buy in the stores, there are side additives in it, that will damage the coating for sure and leave a residue - so if you want to use alcohol, be sure to buy Isopropanol - so it has no hidden additives - and delude it with boiled water (against possible lime scale in the water). I guess a heated bed always works better ofcourse. Too bad they forgot to mension anything like this in the manual - or any website of Creality. If you start using chemicals on a new board, you will irreversibly damage the coating (will come off in a yellowish color on paper towels) and then you will need to clean it with agressive chemicals and use attaching spray more and more as the Carborundum coating will get less and less. So my advice : heat your bed, remove it, try to clean it with a soft cloth with warm or boiled water, and as a last resort use deluted Isopropanol, but more water then Isopropanol... Don't use acetone, it will also destroy the coating (you can better take a normal glass plate then) and try to use the small scraper that comes with it AS LESS AS POSSIBLE, because it will also get the coating off; your glass will start feeling smooth and you will see like these (dull) spots that reflect differently in light. Also this scraper sometimes has sharp uneven metal parts / edges , that will leave nice (not) scratches (or with me, it was just one side of the scraper that had uneven metal sharp edges, so distroyed the coating and got all scratches on my glass after the second time I got my machine new). Be warned. If it doesn't come of easy after printing, don't try to force it (you can pull the coating right off the glass too), but try to see if it comes of easier if you make the glass cold (like with icecubes on the bottom) , or maybe it comes off with a bit of heat with a hear blower... it depends on the material you printed.
I used >99.5% Isoproponol to clean a small corner of my bed that did have problems. I confirm that the coating did come off in a yellowish color. PLA prints do stick to this corner well , but when the bed cools down they do not self release anymore. So yes pure Isoproponol deletes the coating.
@@r0b3rd IDK about that. A replacement is less than 20 dollars so I said F it and used acetone all the time as well as IPA for minor cleaning. Been doing this a year and a half on this bed and it still stick great.
i love the old time commercial feel, really makes the video enjoyable to watch
That intro though😂
Thanks man. It was fun to make.
Fr fr
Love the video. Just got my first printer (Ender 3 v2). Appreciate the clear and concise direction caring for the glass.
same bro i have bad bed adhesion trying this soon hope it works or the sink it is+
So there’s a lot of info out there. And some things have changed since I made the video. Apparently there is now some info saying don’t use alcohol on the creality carborundum glass plate. I don’t know how accurate that is. (I don’t have one). I do know I now have 5 glass plates and have been using this along with an occasional hot water/dish soap scrub without issue on my plates.
Point is, do a little digging and find a method that that works best for you and your setup.
Happy printing!
This video was more helpful and entertaining than almost any of the huge 3d print accounts
Couldn't agree more. I ended up with the center of my plate (most of it, really) being worn away from bad info.
I appreciate the time and effort you've put in here. This is a great, simple solution that you don't really hear people talk about.
I just spritz straight ISO, Acetone was great for getting the hairspray off when I was using it, but I found adjusting the Z offset (use a skirt and adjust on the fly) , is the best way to get perfect adhesion. I thought it was silly at first, but I don't have to re-level hardly ever. My machine is not consistent on the Z point, but its no issue after a 5 second adjustment at the beginning of the print.
Also, on 15+ hour prints, I use a brim and then a few tiny strips of Polyimide tape to keep it from lifting on those super long prints. I haven't had one pop off in a few months.
Thank you. I couldn't get anything to stick to my bed, even after soap water, alcohol rub, Windex anything. Finally took it to the sink one last time scrubbed it like crazy with dawn a few times. I then dried it off, Put it back on the machine, made sure not to touch it with my fingers then turned up the bed heat for a little bit. Ran a test print and finally it STUCK... Waiting till it fully cooled down and I was able to barely touch the prints and they fell right over. It's been amazing since then. I will use this now between prints. I've only found one thing that will not stick well is this spool of Color Changing Filament. I have to use a Glue Stick or it will just drag around. I've got PLA+ printing now perfectly with nothing extra. Thank you.
Thank you for the video. I looked at your video history and you stopped posting for a year. That is too bad. I hope more videos will be posted this year.
Yes sir. I got busy with life and let the printers sit for a bit. We’ve started printing again recently. I do have a couple ideas for possible videos. So we’ll see…. Thanks for commenting. It inspires me to want to make more.
I just tried this on my Ender and it worked a treat!!
I read the description and felt I should add my opinion. I liked the video intro, I’m about to give the solution a try in preparation for my first print.
Great video! Even better cleaning solution...I was in a pinch and this video got me printing again ;)
Awesome intro haha thought I was watching an infomercial for a moment. I was waiting for you to sell me a cleaning product 🤣
Thx
Thanks for the info, and the chuckle.
Sometime the KISS principle is the best. Well done Brian.
Thanks you, very useful guide, short and concise.
I used gyeon ( a body prep for painting) and 90% alcohol both worked well cleaning the glass. The problem I had was that the prints stuck so hard I would have smack the print with the scrapper handle. Now I see that soap is recommended. I solved that by replacing the glass with a Pei sheet, and haven't looked back. But thanks for the soap trick
Yeaaaaa . I had the ender 3 v2 for 2 years now. Went through 11 kilograms of filament and I haven't cleaned the bed once. The amount of residue on it is beyond me. The only reason I've been looking to clean it is cause I just got a cr touch and I want UBL to be precise
I’ve had the best luck cleaning my Ender 3v2 ved with a damp paper towel, then drying it with a clean paper towel. This has worked better for me than alcohol or soap & water.
My prints are ridiculously hard to get off the glass bed on my ender 3 neo. Does this mean I'm to close to the bed on my z offset? My ender 3 pro has a magnetic bed and like that so much more
I love the humor
Hi Brian, my son's new Ender 3 Max has the same bed surface. How do you clean the residue pla that sometimes sticks to the surface? The metal scraper that comes with it doesn't seem the right thing to use as I expect it will scratch the surface.
Have you found a solution? I’m facing the same problem right now
Update, goop off and a brush drill bit did the trick, and pla still sticks perfectly to my build plate
I think people try glue stick and hair spray etc because the bed doesnt want to hold on to the print because of touching it or even dust or a layer of film the print likes to leave behind, and the easy solution is to just wash it with water and soap and it sticks like new, this also applies to just bare glass, PLA stick very well to just glass as well if never touched and is clean.
I also use IPA and water, does the soap matter? I will try with a bit soap in it as well to try out next time.
I suggest to never use other methods than IPA, water and or soap because its a coating and that coating will and can get damaged, my first bed was ruined by acetone because it had cooked on clue on it (I bought my printer second hand), so I never ever use acetone on the bed again and just stick with IPA and water.
IPA? How often do you wash it?
@@garden0fstone736 ipa - alcohol, I do t wash it that often actually, I just don’t touch my build plate.
I recently switched to a flex plate (PEI) but I never had problems with bed adhesion. This actually goes for all bed surfaces, just do not touch it at all is best.
If it does not stick just make sure your first layer is low enough and wash the plate with soapy water and that’s it. But in short : I wash it when my layer comes loose and next print is perfect again
@@Retro_Care cool I have two dogs and a lot of dog hair. Should I just wipe it down with a microfiber before every print to make sure there is none on the table?
Nice video. That is pretty much the same as the recipe i use for home made airbrush cleaner lol
Bruh, amazing explanation
Love the intro!
Awesome video, going to try it now!
Do you have an STL for that Pi Camera mount? I've been using a bent coat hanger, and have been looking for a better solution
i just subbed because of that intro haha
Great vid! Question, did anyone try windex?
Thanks for the helpful video 👍🏼
Great video, thanks for doing this
I thought, just water should be enough, at least that is what the Ender Chat support told me...
Thanks for the video. I have this printer and it prints awesome prints. Can I just ask, Is your printer fans loud? Mine are about 80 Db...
Works really well,thanks
Another newby to printing, just got a Ender 3 V2. Although everyone seems to validate this works, I have a concern. Knowing rubbing alcohol can strip finish/paint off metal - even slightly diluted .... I am leery thinking this might strip something off that coating/finish on the bed
Super...I was concerned with the cleaning...I use a 3D printer at work but glass bed with blue tape and removing the adhesive requires high percentage IPA and the instructions with the printer state not to clean with IPA as it may damage the surface of the special glass
Thank you sir
This did not work for me. I found acetone removed filiment traces that stick to the bed. I then wipe with IPO and it keeps the coated glass like new. No more shadows of the print was.
Thank you for the video
I recently cleaned my bed with isopropyl alcohol as some suggested to do so
I did that n now it sticks like rock
And can’t get it off the bed 😬
Do you suggest anything
Have I ruined the bed surface?
No, you haven’t ruined it. I still use IPA sometimes (in fact last night I washed the bed in the sink, and then used 91%). Definitely makes it stick really well.
First suggestion I have is patience. Let the bed cool completely and the part should come off.
You can also artificially cool the bed, by sticking it in the refrigerator for a few minutes for example. One cool night my son just put his bed outside when a part wouldn’t come off.
And finally, you could apply some alcohol around the base of the part where it meets the bed. It should pop right off, but I haven’t tried this personally, but other people and science tell me it works. Yay science!
My man, that's great for dishes and dust particles, does nothing on my Ender 3V2 bed to remove markings from previous prints... The video is funny, tough. Cheers!
Thx, you solved my issue with this video (:
I have the pro
I use isopropyl alcohol 99% pure on my glass about once every 3 months
Does it work for resin stuck on the bed my first layer keeps getting stuck
I see a lot of comments here and for other videos that say not to use alcohol on this bed. I have the same glass bed on my Ender 3 Max.
The manual says, and I quote " Use glass cleaner or isopropyl alcohol to clean the surface before every print for consistent results"
Yep. On my Voxelab printer, it has a clone of the Ender 3 v2 bed that came stock. I just use Windex. However, I made a mistake and used glue stick, which pulled off the coating on the rough side.
@@matthewjbauer1990 is there an adhesive you would recommend for the rough side? Also, did you just start using the glass one instead?
@@tempestandacomputer6951 I really don't recommend any adhesives on the glass bed, both the rough side or the smooth side. What I recommend instead is going with a PEI flex bed. With the PEI bed, all I have to do is make sure the bed is leveled and my prints stick every time, no more adhesives.
What is the best way to remove the outlines of prior prints from the glass bed? Can I up the bed temp to 110 can scrape the now soft plastic or is there a better way? I use your method for keeping oil, dust and other debris off before prints.
did you ever find a solution by chance? Newbie here and I'm having the same issue. I'm thinking I need to remove bed and wash under hot water but if that doesn't fix then feels like wasted time..
@@nickhernandez4264 i had scratched the hell out of my bed during a leveling process so I had to replace. Never found a great solution other than using the scraper while the bed was still warm and using alcohol to wipe it down
Instant subscribe!
Will this work on your shirt shoulder?
I should try. Still have that shirt too. Haha.
Acetone works great for the first pass, then IPA
this is my go to when IPA alone isnt cutting it. Good acetone scrub then IPA.
What are the layers under the glass? Pcb heater, or aluminium, silicon heater etc.
The part the glass sits on? It’s aluminum.
I’ll probably just stick with the bar keepers friend/M.E.K method
and is it working for petg too?
Acetone takes the texture off
Please dont use alcohol on your Computer screen they have a special coding, wich you are damaging with alcohol
so much character in this vid
Followed this "recipe" to fix a mild bed-adhesion issue. The mixture in this video made the problem significantly worse. Tried to knock back the dish soap, and still nothing. Now I just have to figure out how to unfuck my printer. Thanks.
That’s a bummer. Sounds like you have a different issue though. I use this mix on three different printers with no problem. Are you using isopropyl alcohol without any additives? What kind of dish soap are you using? Make sure it doesn’t have any additives to soften hands or anything like that.
Regardless, if this cleaning solution concerns you it’s easy enough to rule out with either warm soapy water or straight ipa.
Good luck. Hope you find the root of your issue.
If you have a Ender 3 V2 glass board with Carborundum coating, the 'official' advice from Creality is 'just' plain water. It sucks that people give advice to use all kinds of chemicals like alcohol (and because in most mixes of alcohol you can buy in the stores, there are side additives in it, that will damage the coating for sure and leave a residue - so if you want to use alcohol, be sure to buy Isopropanol - so it has no hidden additives - and delude it with boiled water (against possible lime scale in the water). I guess a heated bed always works better ofcourse. Too bad they forgot to mension anything like this in the manual - or any website of Creality. If you start using chemicals on a new board, you will irreversibly damage the coating (will come off in a yellowish color on paper towels) and then you will need to clean it with agressive chemicals and use attaching spray more and more as the Carborundum coating will get less and less. So my advice : heat your bed, remove it, try to clean it with a soft cloth with warm or boiled water, and as a last resort use deluted Isopropanol, but more water then Isopropanol... Don't use acetone, it will also destroy the coating (you can better take a normal glass plate then) and try to use the small scraper that comes with it AS LESS AS POSSIBLE, because it will also get the coating off; your glass will start feeling smooth and you will see like these (dull) spots that reflect differently in light. Also this scraper sometimes has sharp uneven metal parts / edges , that will leave nice (not) scratches (or with me, it was just one side of the scraper that had uneven metal sharp edges, so distroyed the coating and got all scratches on my glass after the second time I got my machine new). Be warned. If it doesn't come of easy after printing, don't try to force it (you can pull the coating right off the glass too), but try to see if it comes of easier if you make the glass cold (like with icecubes on the bottom) , or maybe it comes off with a bit of heat with a hear blower... it depends on the material you printed.
I used >99.5% Isoproponol to clean a small corner of my bed that did have problems. I confirm that the coating did come off in a yellowish color. PLA prints do stick to this corner well , but when the bed cools down they do not self release anymore. So yes pure Isoproponol deletes the coating.
@@r0b3rd IDK about that. A replacement is less than 20 dollars so I said F it and used acetone all the time as well as IPA for minor cleaning. Been doing this a year and a half on this bed and it still stick great.
Does not get to the point fast enough
I’d buy anything that intro is trying to sell me.
alcohol is bad for the bed coating!
Seems like the alcohol would break down the soap.
It doesn’t. I don’t know the chemistry of it. But it works. I keep a bottle in my vehicle for cleaning glasses and even with heat it lasts.
Acetone destroys your bed.
been using it on mine for well over a year and its still working.
Dislike
Just put the glass into the dishwasher ffs.