How to test your Throttle Position sensor (TPS sensor)
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- Опубликовано: 12 окт 2010
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Anthony @ DIYautotech showing you how to check your throttle position sensor for source voltage, signal voltage, and WOP voltage using a Fluke 87 digital multi meter. 
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Thanks for the info--really appreciate it!! My van is jerking like crazy when I accelerate and I will check this today!!
@spelunkerd Yes, the key does need to be in the "KOEO" position (Key On Engine Off) to see the available voltage to the sensor. Glad you take the time to comment all of my videos Spelunkerd!
Great break down and informative.
I want to thank you for starting with the basics....such as WHERE to set the multi meter. There was a video by another gentleman that helped me out in terms of which lead goes where and what to look for however the quality of the video was so bad I could not see where he indicated the multimeter should be set. Thanks again!
Nice demo Anthony. I guess I missed this one when it was first posted.
great video!! newer vehicles will only go 80% to 85% of reference voltage.
@77camaro That is true for some applications, however I still see tons of new cars with reference voltage at 4.4-4.85 Volts. Remember, every single vehicle is different so it is crucial to have the right information available.
Absolutely wonderful diagnostic video sir! 10 stars on a 5 star system!
zna li netko gdje se nalazi senzor brzine na hunday santa fe 2004g 2000 kubika 4×4
@frankfordbully Would a bad TPS explain a "no-code" and "NO CEL" acceleration stumble on my 2002 Mazda B2300? It was running like a Swiss watch and getting 30+mpg. All of a sudden, it started stumbling under anything heavier than a gentle throttle. Other than that, it runs smooth and idles perfectly. Plugs and wires replaced along with A/filter, and I cleaned the MAF sensor.
@rachmaniralf You are correct that the varying resistance will cause a voltage change that is linearly proportional, but the DVOM or DMM will not be quick enough to show this response. This is why I'm telling you that a scope is needed for intermittent diagnosis. It would pick those voltage changes up.
Knowledge is useful my friend, but practice is even better. Go try it on a vehicle and you will understand.
Like many of you I didn't like this test either, but I have a question about doing it right. My meter (Fluke 179) has the true RMS bar at the bottom of the screen. If I set the range manually and watch the bar at the bottom of the screen while I slowly move the throttle I get a good clean sweep through the whole range.
Is this a good way to run this test??
I have a problem with my car running like crap but when I unplug the tps it gets better. Is that a good sign that its bad?
Evidently this is an active circuit even when the engine is not running. Do you need to have the key turned on to see that activity?
dude very helpful video..shit it just helped me with my honda tps sensor
My cars rpm won't stay steady. I already changed idle air control valve and nothing. Could it be tps sensor.? Or vacuum leak.?
Normally,the TPS has three wires,which wire is for checking the voltage,signal wire and the 5v reference wire or the signal wire and ground wire? Thanks
Is there a way to use the TPS signal to control another device?
My car has been acting funny lately, and there was a code in the car mentioning a TPS.
A friend and I performed this test to see if there were any jumps in the sensor, we didn't find any jumps, however, we did find that the sensor itself went from about .35 volts to 4.5ish volts. Is .35 volts too low an idle voltage for my 91 buick regal?
Is it a good idea to be wearing a ring like that?
Can you take it a step further. I have a problem with the voltages TO the TSP. The 5V reference is good but the voltage to the blue wire that actually tells the voltage to the computer is bad. I get 0.4V with the throttle closed and it drops to 0vdc when the throttle is opened. Thank you
i have a doubt..for checking reference voltafe why are you using signal wire and ground?why not power wire and ground?
My sensor did the opposite. When I had no throttle it registered like 4.4 volts i think it was and on open throttle it went to .6 and .4 for 2 of them. My car will also run fine then randomly miss, jump, backfire, and die. Found out today that I can unplug my tps and plug it back in and the car starts back up. If I don't do that usually it is very hard to start and if I get it to start it dies a couple feet away
Hopefully replacing this thing will fix my Civic's 3000 rpm idle surges. I don't wanna have to replace the Idle Air Control Valve. That shit is expensive.
Remember, in tough situations you must start with the simplest problems. We're dealing with a load issue, as the car is producing this hesitation apon take off & acceleration. Saying things have been "checked" doesn't provide enough evidence that they were actually checked. I would need to see fuel pressure, air fuel, exhaust back pressure, Maf sensor or eqiuvalent, and a smog reading to see what's going on....not t mention the obvious spark test.
When you can get those numbers, contact me.
Take that ring off rookie!
@rachmaniralf Very good reply, thanks rachmaniralf. I couldn't have put it better myself!
Shouldn't the signal be tested with OHMs rather than volts?
this test only tests if the sensor reads WOT or closed throttle most of the times your gonna have a problem with the sensor cutting in and out. it would be easier to just check the TP sensor with a scan tool and even then you would be more likely to see a jump or dip in voltage and if you were really serious about testing it this way you would really need a lab scope not a multimeter
I really like the video, but on the last test you do where the throttle is pushed you say at 1:48 you tell where the multimeter leads go...but you don't SAY anything it just kind of shows one lead and I can't see what wire it's touching...sooooo I'm good up until that point. If you say the red lead goes on the whatever wire and the ground goes wherever...I can't hear it on the video...again that is for the last test that measured 4.22 Volts. Sad but true.
What is the definition reference voltage? What is reference voltage?
I don't see how it could work, like unlocking you car door with a tennis ball. Have you heard of the "popsident" that was advertised on TV?
@texasrecyclers What we're showing here is a test to eliminate a DEAD TPS sensor, not a sensor with intermittent failure. Even with 20k-ohm set on the meter, it wouldn't read the cycle rate fast enough to catch a fault. This is why you would want to use a SCOPE that reads 2 million parts per second. A digital meter only reads about 1000-4000 parts per minute, not NEARLY enough to catch a fault.
I appreciate the comment, but your method of testing is unfortunately incorrect. SUBSCBRIBE
no balistic
you big head..lol
K
Anthony is HOT!
@rachmaniralf
You can't even spell Genius...
Omg so dumb. This will not tell you if your sensor is bad.
You tell us what will, please
crap
I have a real challenge for you tech guy. I have a 94 gmc safari sl 4.3l v6 which no mechanics seem to find the solution to the problem even though the car has had no problems for 4 years except for the computer last year which was replaced which makes me think its related to the computer but anyways they can't find the problem. The car wont accelerate from 0 to 40 normally it lags or stalls at whatever speed from 0 to 40 no matter how much gas. But it comes and goes to normal.
Those are not it they checked all those already and this car is old school obd1 engine simple doesn't even have more than 10 pounds of pressure on the fuel exhaust. I think its the square box that regulates the sensors behind the water pump. Either that or the throttle body. Or the o2 sensor which rarely causes it but it is possible in rare instances. Or the computer but i don't think its the computer.
After an obd1 reading the reading said catalytic converter, fuel filter. Its none of those already checked. Fuel pump not it already checked. Air already checked. it could be a lose wire or damaged or some mis reading on a sensor to cpu or whatever but i would appreciate any and all advice its driving me bonkers i need my car and these so called 35 year experience mechanics are and embarrassment! please wb asap or anyone reading this to my email asap. Thank you for all or any help!