Definitely watch the first layer. If you don't have auto-level and aren't using a raft or a glass bed, you can compensate for warping of the bed by increasing flow during the first layer or 2 so that the lines don't have gaps (but you generally need to change it back for later layers because the top of the previous layer will be flatter. Foxsmart filament seems pretty nice and is pretty affordable, but I've only used it and cheap Chinese filament, so it might just be that the Chinese stuff was really bad.
+Matthew Langley that’s a pretty good tip. Yeah this step can be super important. I’ve never heard of foxsmart. I just may have to heck them out. Yeah the cheap stuff can lead to some really bad prints, right?!
+Peter Rusanoff thanks for checking out the vid and thanks for the kind words. Yeah marlin confit and firmware config can make huge differences in print quality, particularly when it comes to acceleration/deceleration, speeds, etc... I thought I would keep the video as basic and simple as possible as people and leave the door open to more advanced topics down the road. Thanks again Pete!
Hey Infosmercial, I have an idea for a project you might want to do. My collegiate 3D Print club is currently in the process of making a filament grinder and extruder to recycle filament. The setup will also be able to take virgin PLA pellets and create filament at a much cheaper rate than purchasing it. Yes, this is is probably a large project to take on by oneself, but it might prove interesting and useful!
+Blitzer407 oooo that IS a good project! Seriously how handy would it be to have a cheap filament recycler. It would prevent a whole lot of plastic wastes too. Thanks for the suggestion. I’m going to be looking into it for sure.
fossil25 Yeah, we currently are in possession of a Filastruder for quick integration with our grinder. However, it can be a bit of a quirky product and also has its limitations. Being that we want to experiment as much as possible, we are looking to construct our own later so we can create multiple sizes of filaments, make different types that are more abrasive than the standard PLA, and have complete control over the quality (vs speed) of the resulting product.
My daughter wanted a 3D printer for Christmas....so I now have a 3D printer as she quickly got frustrated and quit on it. One of the first filaments I used was Hatchbox PLA black. Worked great. I do tend to get squishing and my first few layers drift to the right (left if you are going from your own veiw). This is really frustrating with parts that are supposed to fit together or that have threading all the way through a lumen and makes the part not functional. Any tips for keeping this from happening? I have a Ender 3 (I think...Foxnovo? Maybe a knock off but 1:1 knock off as I used the ender 3 assembly tutorial to assemble it) I am using Color me Happy PLA now. I think it is different from standard PLA though. What is the difference between polyglactic acid (PLA) and polyglactic elixir (PLA) I have heard them both called PLA, but this Color me Happy PLA seems to be different than the Hatchbox. The Color me Happy feels a lot more ridged and sturdy than the Hatchbox but the Hatchbox gave a more satin finish.
I'm a big fan of the last video but I think this one is bad advice. 1. Software: I agree Simplify3D is the way to go but I disagree on the free ones. Slic3r, Cura, Ideamaker, and Prusa Control are the preferred for most people. 2. Google everything: the search results cannot compare to the Facebook groups of 3D printer specific group or the very large general 3D Printing group. Google might not provide the most accurate data vs. answers in real time from consumers. 4. Hatchbox was the go to for alot of people but there's been a recent surge in stories of people receiving spools of tangled filament. Esun Pro or Inland have become more cited these days than Hatchbox. 5. Watch first layer: that's not realistic. No one has that kind of time. Instead you should make sure you clean the bed inbetween prints and occasionally calibrate such as when switching spools. Another better suggestion would have been OctoPi or similar services so when that first layer hits trouble you are able to stop it from further damage remotely.
I have never left a print on the first layer. That is the most important step to getting a good print, and I honestly usually watch the first few layers because I think it's amazing. If I know that first layer is down good I know I can walk away from that 30hour print, check every few hours or after a good night's sleep, and it will, most of the time, be going perfectly. I have only had 3 prints fail after the first layer, 2 was my fault for not having a brim on a tower like structure, and the other one had a lot of supports that it got caught up on.
I just checked this printer out. Wow that looks like an insane value price for a 3d Printer. That’s pretty encouraging for people looking into getting started. Sorry I haven’t used the tarantula at all. Your trying to add a filament/nozzle cooling fan, right?
Infosmercial I'm only using PLA and flexible filaments in general, i could never make ABS stick to the bed, even with glu at 99°C for the bed, it warped. I should build an enclosure for that but since PLA works...
Yeah ABS can be super tough to deal with. I didn’t start having luck until I bought a sheet of PEI, essentially glued it to a 1/4” glass bed, and used that to print on. I will say though that after doing that ABS is a pure breeze to print with. Seriously I have almost no issues ever. I will say if your having luck with PLA, why switch when somethings already working :P You using ninja flex for prints? I’ve used it only a small number of times and seems kinda cool.
Infosmercial wow cool to know !! If i really need ABS i'll try it, cheers ! But as you say, if it works with PLA, why switch ? I'm using flexismart, also the cheapest flexible on amazon france. I've encountered ninjaflex in a fablab, and flexismart is even more flexible. I use it with my PLA settings, just slower (200°C nozzle, 50°C bed, PVA glue) and it works like a charm if you prevent it to cross the outer line to avoid stringing (maker's muse tips :D) What have you used flexible for ?
So far the only thing I used it for was this Apple Pencil holder for the iPad. I custom designed this stand for it where the base, which I electroplated, screws off and stores both the extra tip and the charging dongle that come with it. I used the flex filament to keep the dongle in place so I could charge the pencil by simply inserting it into the 3d holder and plugging a cable into the other end. Worked out pretty good too I gotta say. Honestly, I wanna try printing shoes or something lol.
+coolstream1 hmm I’ll have to keep them in mind. I’ve never used their pla, but they seem to have some pretty good prices. I have some of their PetG that I’ve been wanting to print with too. Have you used their abs or others at all?
3D printing isn’t the coolest thing you can do, sorry. Objectively riding a motorcycle while smoking real cigarettes and having sex while doing a huge jump all at the same time is the coolest thing you can do. It’s really hard tho.
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Great video! Doing my research before I dive in. Very helpful info
Thanks for watching the vid. I’m glad you found it helpful. Stay tuned cause there is even more coming soon.
Cheers!
Super helpful! Stuff a noob like me doesn't even know to consider. Thanks! Keep being awesome!
Thank you for checking out the vids!
big thumbs up and new subscriber here mate!!
Awesome sauce! Thanks for watching the vid btw!
Definitely watch the first layer. If you don't have auto-level and aren't using a raft or a glass bed, you can compensate for warping of the bed by increasing flow during the first layer or 2 so that the lines don't have gaps (but you generally need to change it back for later layers because the top of the previous layer will be flatter.
Foxsmart filament seems pretty nice and is pretty affordable, but I've only used it and cheap Chinese filament, so it might just be that the Chinese stuff was really bad.
+Matthew Langley that’s a pretty good tip. Yeah this step can be super important.
I’ve never heard of foxsmart. I just may have to heck them out. Yeah the cheap stuff can lead to some really bad prints, right?!
Hey a really good filament i bought a whole lot of is 3d soulutech pla its really nice and printable and has a good surface finish.
I just might have to pick some up as I’m running low on PLA. Thanks for the tip!
Love the channel bro MAKE MORE VIDEOS also marlin config is supper important
+Peter Rusanoff thanks for checking out the vid and thanks for the kind words.
Yeah marlin confit and firmware config can make huge differences in print quality, particularly when it comes to acceleration/deceleration, speeds, etc...
I thought I would keep the video as basic and simple as possible as people and leave the door open to more advanced topics down the road.
Thanks again Pete!
Hey Infosmercial, I have an idea for a project you might want to do. My collegiate 3D Print club is currently in the process of making a filament grinder and extruder to recycle filament. The setup will also be able to take virgin PLA pellets and create filament at a much cheaper rate than purchasing it. Yes, this is is probably a large project to take on by oneself, but it might prove interesting and useful!
+Blitzer407 oooo that IS a good project! Seriously how handy would it be to have a cheap filament recycler. It would prevent a whole lot of plastic wastes too.
Thanks for the suggestion. I’m going to be looking into it for sure.
Blitzer407 you can buy a Filastruder .
Woah...a filastruder. Gonna look that up in a min, but I take it that’s a way of recycling plastic and making new filament?
fossil25 Yeah, we currently are in possession of a Filastruder for quick integration with our grinder. However, it can be a bit of a quirky product and also has its limitations. Being that we want to experiment as much as possible, we are looking to construct our own later so we can create multiple sizes of filaments, make different types that are more abrasive than the standard PLA, and have complete control over the quality (vs speed) of the resulting product.
My daughter wanted a 3D printer for Christmas....so I now have a 3D printer as she quickly got frustrated and quit on it. One of the first filaments I used was Hatchbox PLA black. Worked great. I do tend to get squishing and my first few layers drift to the right (left if you are going from your own veiw). This is really frustrating with parts that are supposed to fit together or that have threading all the way through a lumen and makes the part not functional. Any tips for keeping this from happening? I have a Ender 3 (I think...Foxnovo? Maybe a knock off but 1:1 knock off as I used the ender 3 assembly tutorial to assemble it) I am using Color me Happy PLA now. I think it is different from standard PLA though. What is the difference between polyglactic acid (PLA) and polyglactic elixir (PLA) I have heard them both called PLA, but this Color me Happy PLA seems to be different than the Hatchbox. The Color me Happy feels a lot more ridged and sturdy than the Hatchbox but the Hatchbox gave a more satin finish.
I'm a big fan of the last video but I think this one is bad advice.
1. Software: I agree Simplify3D is the way to go but I disagree on the free ones. Slic3r, Cura, Ideamaker, and Prusa Control are the preferred for most people.
2. Google everything: the search results cannot compare to the Facebook groups of 3D printer specific group or the very large general 3D Printing group. Google might not provide the most accurate data vs. answers in real time from consumers.
4. Hatchbox was the go to for alot of people but there's been a recent surge in stories of people receiving spools of tangled filament. Esun Pro or Inland have become more cited these days than Hatchbox.
5. Watch first layer: that's not realistic. No one has that kind of time. Instead you should make sure you clean the bed inbetween prints and occasionally calibrate such as when switching spools. Another better suggestion would have been OctoPi or similar services so when that first layer hits trouble you are able to stop it from further damage remotely.
don't have enough time to watch the first layer? what that's completely reasonable.
I have never left a print on the first layer. That is the most important step to getting a good print, and I honestly usually watch the first few layers because I think it's amazing. If I know that first layer is down good I know I can walk away from that 30hour print, check every few hours or after a good night's sleep, and it will, most of the time, be going perfectly. I have only had 3 prints fail after the first layer, 2 was my fault for not having a brim on a tower like structure, and the other one had a lot of supports that it got caught up on.
I still haven’t been able to find a video on how to add a blower fan onto my tevo tarantula
I just checked this printer out. Wow that looks like an insane value price for a 3d Printer. That’s pretty encouraging for people looking into getting started.
Sorry I haven’t used the tarantula at all. Your trying to add a filament/nozzle cooling fan, right?
I'm using ICE filaments, currently the cheapest on amazon france, works like a charm whatever the colour
+twinuts333 never heard of them (US). You print PLA or ABS or anything else?
Infosmercial I'm only using PLA and flexible filaments in general, i could never make ABS stick to the bed, even with glu at 99°C for the bed, it warped. I should build an enclosure for that but since PLA works...
Yeah ABS can be super tough to deal with. I didn’t start having luck until I bought a sheet of PEI, essentially glued it to a 1/4” glass bed, and used that to print on. I will say though that after doing that ABS is a pure breeze to print with. Seriously I have almost no issues ever.
I will say if your having luck with PLA, why switch when somethings already working :P
You using ninja flex for prints? I’ve used it only a small number of times and seems kinda cool.
Infosmercial
wow cool to know !! If i really need ABS i'll try it, cheers !
But as you say, if it works with PLA, why switch ?
I'm using flexismart, also the cheapest flexible on amazon france. I've encountered ninjaflex in a fablab, and flexismart is even more flexible. I use it with my PLA settings, just slower (200°C nozzle, 50°C bed, PVA glue) and it works like a charm if you prevent it to cross the outer line to avoid stringing (maker's muse tips :D)
What have you used flexible for ?
So far the only thing I used it for was this Apple Pencil holder for the iPad. I custom designed this stand for it where the base, which I electroplated, screws off and stores both the extra tip and the charging dongle that come with it. I used the flex filament to keep the dongle in place so I could charge the pencil by simply inserting it into the 3d holder and plugging a cable into the other end.
Worked out pretty good too I gotta say.
Honestly, I wanna try printing shoes or something lol.
Where did find the fiLe on hold my helmets to the wall.3-D printed helmets. Can post the link. Please
Personally, I'm a fan of the esun PLA+
+coolstream1 hmm I’ll have to keep them in mind. I’ve never used their pla, but they seem to have some pretty good prices.
I have some of their PetG that I’ve been wanting to print with too.
Have you used their abs or others at all?
$150 for a slicer? Nope. Spend your money on an affordable and almost mandatory EZABL kit. Made my Ender 3 Pro really feel pro.
3D printing isn’t the coolest thing you can do, sorry.
Objectively riding a motorcycle while smoking real cigarettes and having sex while doing a huge jump all at the same time is the coolest thing you can do. It’s really hard tho.