If you want to mix a smaller quantity I would still mix in say a garbage bin/can then transfer the slurry to a smaller sealable container like a 5-gallon bucket. If you would like I can do an additional video on mixing smaller amounts. I will also do a video soon comparing the different Pre-Mixed slurries like Remet's "Just-Dip" and R&R's "Suspendaslurry". For those of you outside of the USA, You will need to source your chemicals locally, specially the liquid colloidal since if it freezes during transport it is ruined.
can you plz recommend any websith or saler who will ship slurry chemicals to bangladesh or any saler on alibaba . it would be a huge help because it can't be found locally here
Good morning, Eric (& viewers) I'd really like to see a video by you on mixing smaller amounts of slurry (especially for novices like me) with a view to keeping input costs down. And, notwithstanding limiting the amount of damage that can be done by a "possibly over-enthusiastic proselyte" into this once "accessible-only-to-long-bearded-masters-high-on-some-slippery-mountainside" field of artisanal & also artistic endeavour. ((LOL!) Kind regards
Hi Eric, thanks! This is great. The sample Zahn test is appreciated. Your method is straight forward and works well. Regarding dipping containers, we do smaller work. I found the 5 gallon buckets too restrictive and the larger garbage pales/drums too large, plus the raised bottom affected stirring. This 15 gallon drum (a smaller cousin to yours) seems to fit our needs really well: Uline, model: S-24088, 15 gallon plastic drum . Have a great week.
Hey thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos! I'm trying to make the transition from plaster sand to ceramic shell. These videos have given me the confidence to make that leap.
Looking forward to comparison between the referenced premixed slurries and any other of your excellent informative videos. Is there a Safety issue with using fans to dry slurried/stuccoed works. I have just started the process(4 coats so far) using your wonderful pouring cup concept (thanks). I have chosen to let the works air dry over night without fans as I notice the stucco still slightly loose initially. I am retired and have the time!
Air drying is fine, the key is that the shells dry evenly. Depending where you are doing the dipping and ventilation, fans can spread the silica around.
Hello, thank you so much for posting useful videos. Is there a reason why the proportion of colloidal silica is higher than the general ceramic slurry recipe? Also, when casting carbon steel in this way, is it possible to operate stably without major deformation?
I can can get away with the higher silica level because of the enhanced binder "Adbond II" makes for a stronger shell. As for casting steel, I have not done. I do know hat when casting iron, that the shell is stronger than the iron when it is cooling. The result is that as the iron shrinks/contracts around a core made of shell and its a thin walled casting the iron can crack.
Hello Eric, These videos are really great! Thankyou for taking the care and time to share, I will definitely be having all of my students subscribe to your channel. Let me know how else I can help in keeping these coming.
Glad you like them! Along with having your students subscribe, encourage them to interact with my channel and each of the videos by clicking "Like" and adding comments and asking questions.
Hey there! First off great video, I wouldn't have gotten this far into casting if it weren't for you! For that I thank you. Have you ever tried the Remasol Jus-Dip? If I understand their description correctly it is ready to use out of the box, no need to mix in any extra ingredients. As someone who is just getting started, something like this would be perfect. Any thoughts?
I have tested both Remets "Just-Dip" and R&R "Suspend-a-slurry". They are essentially the same. But yes you should totally start with one of those as you start working with ceramic shell. I have been meaning to finish the video on my findings on the two products.
Have you ever seen an ANKARSRUM Kitchenmixer-System? It supports to mix the slurry by using such a piece of wood or something, fixed to the barrel. By the way- thanks for your nice videos. 👍🏼
I have not, but thats an interesting idea. Just a reminder, you dont want to mix too fast. the spped should be just enough to keep the slurry moving. If too fast, it creates friction that will heat up your slurry and dehydrate it. Just keep an eye on it.
What you want to look for is Colloidal silica. First i would find a metal casting foundry in your area, ask them who they'er suppliers are or if you can purchase directly from them, especially if your looking for smaller quantities. Adbond ll is specific to Remet.com
Is there a more descript recipe somewhere? Or something that's says more than "flour" or a substitute for this stuff using household items or smaller quantities?
I might have missed it but what is the Liquid? Is it just water? Roughly how much water do you add to the mixture? The ingredients you mention all seem to be powders right?
Thanks Eric, great information ;0) I use a suspension agent now, but would like to know where you purchase your bentonite? I didn't see it offered at Remet and didn't want to guess with common hardware store material.... grateful for any advise. Chip Jones
The main ingredient to the ceramic slurry is Colloidal silica. It is best if you can find a supplier locally as this product is ruined if it freezes during transport. If you do order from the US, you will need to order late spring till early fall.
hi sir can you say me about chemical formula of silica binder, AdBond II colloidal because i have not access to commercial bond in iran and i really want to steel casting
Hello sir , Great videos !! I am a student from India . My dad owns a foundry here and these videos are helping a lot . One query - can colloidal silica contain potassium oxide rather than sodium oxide .what difference can it make in the slurry composition ? Subscribed:)
I am not entirely sure, but it my understanding that both/either potassium and sodium hydroxide can be used to adjust the PH of your slurry. Not sure about Oxides.
К2О + Н2О = 2KOH Na2O + H2O = 2NaOH Both reactions produce highly alkaline solution (pH>>7) Therefore, in order to reduce acidity of the slurry (in other words, to bring pH up), one can use solution of NaOH or KOH instead of Na2O or K2O.
Are you asking about Sodium Hydroxide and Potassium Hydroxide? Sodium Hydroxide (Lye) and Potassium Hydroxide (Potash) are similar chemicals except potassium oxide molecules are smaller in size. They can be used interchangeably in a lot of formulas, however it really depends on if the other parts care if you have the sodium or potassium. Now, if you're actually dealing with Sodium Oxide and Potassium Oxide, this would be the oxidized form of the base metal. Like Iron Oxide (Regular old Rust)... So of which are you speaking? Hydroxide or just oxide? My guess is, it's the hydroxide versions, which should be interchangeable to an extent. However, I'm not sure that ive ever heard of potassium glass. I know sodium glass is a thing.
Silica is a term for pure SiO2. If particles of silica are small enough, say less than 50nm, these particles would never sediment and stay in suspension due to random bombardment of solvent (in our case water) molecules. (Check Wikipedia for Brownian Motion). COLLOIDAL silica is a suspension of SiO2 particles of 50nm in size and smaller (need to double-check, but as a ballpark it is correct). FUSED and FUMED silica are two terms referring to silica particles larger than 50nm and up to about 50 micrometer (50 micron) that are able to sediment on its own from water suspension. Silica FLOWER, is a term usually referring to SiO2 particles larger than 50micron up to 0.5mm in size. In the USA, mesh units are still used to describe size of particles. The smaller mesh value, the large particles size. Let's say, silica mesh 200 has the size of silica particles that can penetrate through a sieve with openings of 1/200 of one inch. SILICA SAND, also called quartz sand, is used as filler to sprinkle wax models after each dipping into silica SLURRY. Finally, SLURRY is a water-based suspension of COLLOIDAL silica, FUSED silica, BENTONITE, and other additives to produce CERAMIC SHELLS over wax patterns or models. As to a non-native English speaker, it took me quite some time to figure out true meanings of all these terms, that are confusing indeed. Hope this is helpful to all ceramic shell makers. :)
Hi Eric, How long will this last before you would have to worry about it drying out? If I kept a large drum (such as the one you are using) but utilized an airtight lid etc. And do you have an idea on something that could be used to remove the air from the drum? Like something that will vibrate the drum. Thanks, David
You are right it all depends on the container used and the ability to seal it. If you have an air tight lid that keeps the moisture from evaporating then the slurry can last a year or two. But even with a sealed container its a best practice to mix your slurry every few months to help keep all the silica particles fully wetted.
Mixing any slurry is the same or similar to what I showed in this video. The exact recipe will depend on that materials you are able to source in your region of the world.
I know this is an old video, hopefully you're still responding to questions... Is all the moisture in the mix from the colloidal silica, or are you adding water to the mix? thanks
When first mixed it is just the liquid colloidal. Over time moisture will evaporate and you will need to add distilled water to maintain the correct consistency.
Do You have any recipe for home made slury out of Clay, water and sand? I made such mix few years ago. I dip in this wax model but to avoid cracks of Shell when water will evaporate from Clay i added a lot of paper and ash to slury. I found infirmation that celulose fibers from paper will act like binder and that will give me Shell without cracks and ash will make IT hit resistant. After Burnout this fibers will give nice venting to whole Shell for gases to escape. But i added to much paper i think and whole Shell was burning like wood;) and became very fragile. I poured only one of three such molds and result was very bad. But the way how i made wax model remaind me a little bit Ashanti bronze casting from Africa. If they can do it with clay myby we can too;)? If You have some idea how to do something like this at home i think everybody will be interested.
It will depend where in the world are you and what products you have access to. The slurry I make is 1 part Adbond ll (colloidal silica from Remet.com) and 2 parts fused silica flour
Like say in the description "1 part binder". What binder? Could you link an Amazon page to some? I really need more details. Also someone said concrete sealer is liquid silica. Idk if that would work or not, because I can't follow what you're using. Could you please add much more detail to the ingredients part of the description, or make a new video going into them in detail please? Thanks . P.s. I just need to make 2 very small parts that I can't do without a method like this. But even 5gal is way way way overkill.
Some concrete sealers mentioned are a super basic form of colloidal, the trick is finding a suitable silica flour, as most can not handle the thermal shock that accrues during the process of burnout and pour. So far non of the suitable silicas i have found are sold in small quantities.. Fused silica (fired quartz) is ideal, some alumina can work as well. Ill try to do another video that explains this a little better. Sorry for the confusion.
Hello, Eric! Thank you so much for your educational video! It became clear how to make complex processes available to the studio. I have a question. What are the characteristics of the motor you are using (rpm, power in watts and voltage). And how long can the suspension stand without stirring?
If your running a tradition mix, you really dont want it to sit for more then 15-20 mins. With the addition of bentonite, my slurry sits still for hours/days and I only mix it for 10-15 mins for each dip cycle. As for the mixer I use an ole drill press I bought salvage. I do not know the gear ratio but it is set for the slowest speed. The motor spins at 3450 rpm and is made for continuous use.
A typical shell is 10 dips. First few take and hour to dry, later ones more like 2-3 hr. So you can power through in 24 hrs. My dip cycle is usual spred over 3 days. As for the whole casting process. If you would go to a commercial art foundry with a pattern/sculpture they would say 3 months start to finish. 1 month for the mold, 1 for the wax positive, and 1 for the metal casting. It can be faster if you know the process and can do some of the work.
hello eric i need to mix this ceramic shell i have a silca flower what i need more to mix with and ratio please in the video u add the silica in green liquid what is it and in the last slica flower and collocdil slica are same ? and thanks
NOt all silica flower is the same, what type do you have? Fused silica, alumina, other? the colloidal is the liquid. Ratio that i use in 1 part liquid and 2 parts dry (flour). this will make a white/gray color mixture. The green in my slurry is a color indicator that helps tell you when your shell is dry before dipping the next coat.
I got a lot out of this video and just subscribed. I hope to learn more. Thank you! Btw, if I had a small-ish tree of rings or pendants (fits within a 3"x5" flask?) how long would the overall process take of dipping, sanding and drying, then being ready to cast? (mixing time not included) I'm trying to figure out the advantages of the silica-gypsum process. Which captures more detail? I thought I'd put those out there. Thank you!!
My first question would be what kind of metal are you casting. If gold or silver i would stay with silica-gypsum. As for "Time" Dipping a shell that size could take several days depending on the environment you working in (how humid and how much air flow in the room). So longer than it takes to pour the silica gypsum. Where you will make up time is in the burnout. if done right the level of detail is about the same.
@@LunarburnStudio Thanks for your really helpful answer! I think I'll be melting copper alloys to start. Maybe nickel-copper or some of the bronzes. Maybe make some sterling. I'd like to stay away from fuming metals and lots of dross for now. I'd like to study the basics intensely, then produce something marketable as a soon as is practical, if I can make something good that people are attracted to. I really enjoyed your bio on your channel. Deeply written! I really enjoy your forthright energy and how you present things. I think I need a basic study course, like in the old days, in a really thick book lol How to do each aspect and the considerations of why. I'm trying to develop a list of cohesive questions just to focus on the subject. I plan to go to your website soon. I appreciate your time a whole lot! Thank you!
I would come dip for you just to see your process and how you operate. Do you use Sp-30 for your back-up coats? The foundry I worked for ran a lot of work a week. The system we ran might not be as cost efficient for a smaller operation. Our slurry tanks ran 24/7 or it would separate and harden. I really enjoy your videos. I really makes me miss my old job. I worked in a foundry for almost 15 years. With that said your videos are the best examples of informing people. Thanks.
I run a one slurry system and the colloidal I use is Remets Adbond ll. I have been doing foundry work for closed to 40 years (started in high school shop class). I have taken a few brakes but always find myself going back to it. Where are you located?
@@LunarburnStudio I'm in Oregon and spent many years working for Valley Bronze of Oregon in Joseph. We did a two part slurry. Primary coat and then back-up coats, but used Remet as well.
Actually neither, both of those start off as clay (typically from the earth) before being fired and transforming into ceramic. Ceramics are various materials that harden when heated, including clay.
Thank you for these videos! Very informative. A couple questions - what rpm do you run your mixer paddle at? Also, do you do total solids testing? I am currently doing plaster investment but very keen to make the move to ceramic. Thanks & keep up the good videos!
I am glad your are finding my videos helpful. Im not sure of the RPM of my mixer. It's an old drill press and have it on a low speed. You want it mixing fast enough to visibly see the material moving but not fast enough to create a vortex. The reason a vortex is bad is that can draw air into the mix creating bubbles that can interfere with detail on the first dip and will dehydrate to slurry faster.
@@LunarburnStudio Thank you! Great info. Another question - I cannot get AD-II colloidal locally, but can get Ludox SK-R polymer enhanced. Have you ever tried this product before? Keep up the great work.
Hi Eric, Thanks for your great videos! I really appreciate you for sharing your experience in such a detailed way. I'm planning to make my first ceramic shell soon, the only problem I ran into is that I can't get my hands on 400 mesh silica flour. Do you think that 200 mesh will also work? I expect that it might not stay suspended as long as 400 mesh but I can't think of any other disadvantages. I'm curious about your opinion.
The 200 mesh should be fine, but you will most likely need to mix you shell a little more often. 200 mesh is typically for backup coats. So when doing your first coat just be extra diligent to to get a smooth coat without bubbles to get the best detail.
@@sebastiaanvangerwen7989 Yes, I am working my way through the process and will be showing casting soon, but first need to finish build my new furnace.
Hey I haven't watched all your videos or read all the comments but I will, in case this didn't come up though did you add water to your mix at some point and how much?
@@LunarburnStudio Just seen other people degassing the latex when making the mold and then degassing the ceramic slurry, I was unsure why they're doing that extra step if it really isn't necessary. I was going to build a vacuum chamber but you didn't seem to have a problem with bubbles so now I'm not.
Hi! thanks for the video. I am doing it at home, and slurry becomes little thick. In this case what should I add more? should I add more of colloidal silica?
The slurry can thicken as water evaporates from the slurry. To thin the slurry add distilled water in small amounts, mixing between each addition till its back to the desired thickness.
@@LunarburnStudio I used 25kg of colloidal silica, 50kg of fused silica, and 6.25 kg of bentonite. Then got a thicker result. What possibly did I do wrong?
Im trying to think of a solution for your situating. Adding more water might help, but best to add both colloidal (1) and flour(2) @ the ratio of 1 to 2. Although im guess if you are doing this at home your are limited by space. The recipe i use is 55 pounds colloidal, 110 pounds silica flour and a .25-.33 pound of bentonite.
Sir, thank you very much for the quick response, sir. I want to know what the wax is used for in the design, and I want to know what the liquid in which the wax is placed and what is the powder that is placed on the wax after it comes out of the liquid and I want to do this method at home Does it work? Thank you, please. I may ask you other times to learn from you and to know
@@kink_ I prefer a microcrystalline wax, but a number of waxes can work. Just be careful with candle waxes as they can be more flammable and can cause issues during burnout. Check out my videos on wax working. ruclips.net/video/twt3fXp6B8U/видео.html As for the liquid its called slurry and is a mixture on silica colloidal and silica flour. I prefer fused silica which is a fired quartz. So silica four for the slurry and silica sand to coat the wet slurry after dipping your wax.
I launch a investment casting factory but in this area where no body idea how to make slurry plzz send me slurry making step by step and how much quantity in 10 kg slurry and which kind products add in slurry
The main ingredient to the ceramic slurry is Colloidal silica. It is best if you can find a supplier locally as this product is ruined if it freezes during transport. If you do order from the US, you will need to order late spring till early fall.
The recipe you use will depend on the materials you are able to source. With Remet's Adbond II (colloidal) and 400 mesh (RP-1) fused silica flour my ratio is 1 part colloidal and 2 parts flour. But again, the ratio could be a little different depending on the specific ingredient you use. Check with the manufacture for their suggested ratio. The perk of mixing your own slurry is that once you understand your base mix, you then have the option of tweak it if need be to your needs.
Just found your channel the other day and your content is outstanding. I'm trying to use your outlined processes to aid in making a negative mold for aluminum casting which in turn will be used for plastic injection molding hopefully. Your in-depth analysis is great. Thank you!!!
Sorry for the delay. Before starting this channel I didnt realize how hard to find these materials are to find in most regions. Are there and local foundries in your ares that you can connect with?
If you want to mix a smaller quantity I would still mix in say a garbage bin/can then transfer the slurry to a smaller sealable container like a 5-gallon bucket. If you would like I can do an additional video on mixing smaller amounts. I will also do a video soon comparing the different Pre-Mixed slurries like Remet's "Just-Dip" and R&R's "Suspendaslurry".
For those of you outside of the USA, You will need to source your chemicals locally, specially the liquid colloidal since if it freezes during transport it is ruined.
can you plz recommend any websith or saler who will ship slurry chemicals to bangladesh or any saler on alibaba . it would be a huge help because it can't be found locally here
Good morning, Eric (& viewers)
I'd really like to see a video by you on mixing smaller amounts of slurry (especially for novices like me) with a view to keeping input costs down. And, notwithstanding limiting the amount of damage that can be done by a "possibly over-enthusiastic proselyte" into this once "accessible-only-to-long-bearded-masters-high-on-some-slippery-mountainside" field of artisanal & also artistic endeavour. ((LOL!)
Kind regards
Hi Eric, thanks! This is great. The sample Zahn test is appreciated. Your method is straight forward and works well.
Regarding dipping containers, we do smaller work. I found the 5 gallon buckets too restrictive and the larger garbage pales/drums too large, plus the raised bottom affected stirring. This 15 gallon drum (a smaller cousin to yours) seems to fit our needs really well: Uline, model: S-24088, 15 gallon plastic drum . Have a great week.
smaller batch instructions would be much appreciated! Great Video
OMG, this is a huge operation...thanks for explaining things
Happy to help, let me know if you have any questions.
thank you for your incredibly informative videos!
Good
Hey thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos! I'm trying to make the transition from plaster sand to ceramic shell. These videos have given me the confidence to make that leap.
Glad to help
Looking forward to comparison between the referenced premixed slurries and any other of your excellent informative videos. Is there a Safety issue with using fans to dry slurried/stuccoed works. I have just started the process(4 coats so far) using your wonderful pouring cup concept (thanks). I have chosen to let the works air dry over night without fans as I notice the stucco still slightly loose initially. I am retired and have the time!
Air drying is fine, the key is that the shells dry evenly. Depending where you are doing the dipping and ventilation, fans can spread the silica around.
great info! Thanks!!
Great video! I learned a lot. I did not know that you can actually make your own slurry. Thanks for that!
Highly under-viewed video. Thank you for all the amazing insight.
Thxs. Glad you finding my videos helpful.
Hello, thank you so much for posting useful videos. Is there a reason why the proportion of colloidal silica is higher than the general ceramic slurry recipe? Also, when casting carbon steel in this way, is it possible to operate stably without major deformation?
I can can get away with the higher silica level because of the enhanced binder "Adbond II" makes for a stronger shell. As for casting steel, I have not done. I do know hat when casting iron, that the shell is stronger than the iron when it is cooling. The result is that as the iron shrinks/contracts around a core made of shell and its a thin walled casting the iron can crack.
Hello Eric, These videos are really great! Thankyou for taking the care and time to share, I will definitely be having all of my students subscribe to your channel. Let me know how else I can help in keeping these coming.
Glad you like them! Along with having your students subscribe, encourage them to interact with my channel and each of the videos by clicking "Like" and adding comments and asking questions.
Thanks for sharing. Really gives great info an detailed. Thank you
Hey there!
First off great video, I wouldn't have gotten this far into casting if it weren't for you! For that I thank you.
Have you ever tried the Remasol Jus-Dip? If I understand their description correctly it is ready to use out of the box, no need to mix in any extra ingredients. As someone who is just getting started, something like this would be perfect. Any thoughts?
I have tested both Remets "Just-Dip" and R&R "Suspend-a-slurry". They are essentially the same. But yes you should totally start with one of those as you start working with ceramic shell. I have been meaning to finish the video on my findings on the two products.
@@LunarburnStudio Very cool! Looking forward to the video. Thanks a bunch once more :D
Have you ever seen an ANKARSRUM Kitchenmixer-System?
It supports to mix the slurry by using such a piece of wood or something, fixed to the barrel.
By the way- thanks for your nice videos.
👍🏼
I have not, but thats an interesting idea. Just a reminder, you dont want to mix too fast. the spped should be just enough to keep the slurry moving. If too fast, it creates friction that will heat up your slurry and dehydrate it. Just keep an eye on it.
in my country can't find adbond ll Can I use other substances?
What you want to look for is Colloidal silica. First i would find a metal casting foundry in your area, ask them who they'er suppliers are or if you can purchase directly from them, especially if your looking for smaller quantities. Adbond ll is specific to Remet.com
Is there a more descript recipe somewhere? Or something that's says more than "flour" or a substitute for this stuff using household items or smaller quantities?
Unfortunately no. The slurry receipt requires industrial material. I have not found suitable replacements but I am still looking and researching.
I might have missed it but what is the Liquid? Is it just water? Roughly how much water do you add to the mixture? The ingredients you mention all seem to be powders right?
The liquid is called silica colloidal. I like to use REMET Adbond II. I mix 1 part colloidal with 2 part fused silica flour.
Thanks Eric, great information ;0) I use a suspension agent now, but would like to know where you purchase your bentonite? I didn't see it offered at Remet and didn't want to guess with common hardware store material.... grateful for any advise. Chip Jones
Typically I source bentonite via ceramic supply. I use a 325 mesh bent.
Hey! Why do you need to use distilled water instead of tap water when rehydrating the slurry?
Tap water is filled with too many impurities. It is critical that you maintain a balanced Ph level
Como fazer uma lama refratária qual produto vai
The main ingredient to the ceramic slurry is Colloidal silica. It is best if you can find a supplier locally as this product is ruined if it freezes during transport. If you do order from the US, you will need to order late spring till early fall.
I feel like this room would wreck your lungs.
You are Right, it can. Your shell room needs adequate ventilation and you need to use of a respirator is mandatory.
Hi. I have a question. In our country, we have fused silica 200mesh, not 400mesh.
Is this ok to use 200mesh fused silica for making this slurry
200 mesh works fine. If your using a suspension agent it will settle faster so you will still have to mix the slurry more regularly.
@LunarburnStudio suspension agent you mean bentonite ?
@@farhanchoudhre6962 In this case Yes. I se benenite. But other things can aid in suspension as well.
Where can I buy Remet Dryness indicator?
Remet.com
hi sir
can you say me about chemical formula of silica binder, AdBond II colloidal because i have not access to commercial bond in iran and i really want to steel casting
Unfortunately I do not have the formula. I of course have been curious, but have never figured it out. Sry
Ther us lots seller you can find it in Iran. If you interested I can send those numbers.
Hello sir ,
Great videos !! I am a student from India . My dad owns a foundry here and these videos are helping a lot . One query - can colloidal silica contain potassium oxide rather than sodium oxide .what difference can it make in the slurry composition ?
Subscribed:)
I am not entirely sure, but it my understanding that both/either potassium and sodium hydroxide can be used to adjust the PH of your slurry. Not sure about Oxides.
К2О + Н2О = 2KOH
Na2O + H2O = 2NaOH
Both reactions produce highly alkaline solution (pH>>7)
Therefore, in order to reduce acidity of the slurry (in other words, to bring pH up), one can use solution of NaOH or KOH instead of Na2O or K2O.
Are you asking about Sodium Hydroxide and Potassium Hydroxide? Sodium Hydroxide (Lye) and Potassium Hydroxide (Potash) are similar chemicals except potassium oxide molecules are smaller in size. They can be used interchangeably in a lot of formulas, however it really depends on if the other parts care if you have the sodium or potassium.
Now, if you're actually dealing with Sodium Oxide and Potassium Oxide, this would be the oxidized form of the base metal. Like Iron Oxide (Regular old Rust)... So of which are you speaking? Hydroxide or just oxide? My guess is, it's the hydroxide versions, which should be interchangeable to an extent. However, I'm not sure that ive ever heard of potassium glass. I know sodium glass is a thing.
Can we use normal silica instead of fused silica ?
Most silicas can not handle tge thermal shock and temperature changes.
The silicas that work are Fused Silca, alumina, and mullite
Can we cast stainless steel from this process?
Yes
great content.
appreciation.
Hi! which is the colided silica made of? what are the components? how much percentage of the ingredients
not sure, I have always bought it premixed. sry
@@LunarburnStudio thank you anyway, great video!!
Silica is a term for pure SiO2.
If particles of silica are small enough, say less than 50nm, these particles would never sediment and stay in suspension due to random bombardment of solvent (in our case water) molecules. (Check Wikipedia for Brownian Motion). COLLOIDAL silica is a suspension of SiO2 particles of 50nm in size and smaller (need to double-check, but as a ballpark it is correct).
FUSED and FUMED silica are two terms referring to silica particles larger than 50nm and up to about 50 micrometer (50 micron) that are able to sediment on its own from water suspension.
Silica FLOWER, is a term usually referring to SiO2 particles larger than 50micron up to 0.5mm in size. In the USA, mesh units are still used to describe size of particles. The smaller mesh value, the large particles size. Let's say, silica mesh 200 has the size of silica particles that can penetrate through a sieve with openings of 1/200 of one inch.
SILICA SAND, also called quartz sand, is used as filler to sprinkle wax models after each dipping into silica SLURRY.
Finally, SLURRY is a water-based suspension of COLLOIDAL silica, FUSED silica, BENTONITE, and other additives to produce CERAMIC SHELLS over wax patterns or models.
As to a non-native English speaker, it took me quite some time to figure out true meanings of all these terms, that are confusing indeed.
Hope this is helpful to all ceramic shell makers. :)
Obrigado lunarburn e obrigado sergey por a explicação 🤝🤝🤝
Hi Eric,
How long will this last before you would have to worry about it drying out?
If I kept a large drum (such as the one you are using) but utilized an airtight lid etc.
And do you have an idea on something that could be used to remove the air from the drum?
Like something that will vibrate the drum.
Thanks,
David
You are right it all depends on the container used and the ability to seal it. If you have an air tight lid that keeps the moisture from evaporating then the slurry can last a year or two. But even with a sealed container its a best practice to mix your slurry every few months to help keep all the silica particles fully wetted.
Teach me how to make slurry step by step
Mixing any slurry is the same or similar to what I showed in this video. The exact recipe will depend on that materials you are able to source in your region of the world.
Where can I find dry indicator color ?
I get mine from REMET.com
Hello,
What are the specs of the colloidal Silia? i.e. % of Silica / water and particle size?
What are the specs of the Silica Flour?
Thanks
Joe
I have to admit I dont the specifics of the colloidal in that way. As for the flour it is a 400 mesh particle size.
hi ,can i know the brand of the adbond II
Its from a company called Remet.com
I know this is an old video, hopefully you're still responding to questions... Is all the moisture in the mix from the colloidal silica, or are you adding water to the mix? thanks
When first mixed it is just the liquid colloidal. Over time moisture will evaporate and you will need to add distilled water to maintain the correct consistency.
Bro slurry composition is clodial and fused silica only ?
yes, colloidal liquid and fused silica flour
@@LunarburnStudio why not using a suspension agent?
Came here to work out a slurry mixture but now all I want to know is what the song is that starts about 7min 40sec...
I get all my music from Epidemic sound (link in the description). That sound is "The Source" www.epidemicsound.com/track/fuw9JMmvzS/
Do You have any recipe for home made slury out of Clay, water and sand? I made such mix few years ago. I dip in this wax model but to avoid cracks of Shell when water will evaporate from Clay i added a lot of paper and ash to slury. I found infirmation that celulose fibers from paper will act like binder and that will give me Shell without cracks and ash will make IT hit resistant. After Burnout this fibers will give nice venting to whole Shell for gases to escape. But i added to much paper i think and whole Shell was burning like wood;) and became very fragile. I poured only one of three such molds and result was very bad. But the way how i made wax model remaind me a little bit Ashanti bronze casting from Africa. If they can do it with clay myby we can too;)? If You have some idea how to do something like this at home i think everybody will be interested.
Unfortunately i Dont but I will look into it. I started off as a potter and know there is a-lot of cross over between the two fields.
Can you provide proper list of slurry material and their ratio I need this
THANK YOU
It will depend where in the world are you and what products you have access to. The slurry I make is 1 part Adbond ll (colloidal silica from Remet.com) and 2 parts fused silica flour
Like say in the description "1 part binder". What binder? Could you link an Amazon page to some? I really need more details. Also someone said concrete sealer is liquid silica. Idk if that would work or not, because I can't follow what you're using. Could you please add much more detail to the ingredients part of the description, or make a new video going into them in detail please? Thanks .
P.s. I just need to make 2 very small parts that I can't do without a method like this. But even 5gal is way way way overkill.
Some concrete sealers mentioned are a super basic form of colloidal, the trick is finding a suitable silica flour, as most can not handle the thermal shock that accrues during the process of burnout and pour. So far non of the suitable silicas i have found are sold in small quantities.. Fused silica (fired quartz) is ideal, some alumina can work as well. Ill try to do another video that explains this a little better. Sorry for the confusion.
@@LunarburnStudio thank you
Excellent video for small scale foundries. Thank you for making and sharing.
Happy to help. Let me know if you have any questions.
Hello, Eric! Thank you so much for your educational video! It became clear how to make complex processes available to the studio. I have a question. What are the characteristics of the motor you are using (rpm, power in watts and voltage). And how long can the suspension stand without stirring?
If your running a tradition mix, you really dont want it to sit for more then 15-20 mins. With the addition of bentonite, my slurry sits still for hours/days and I only mix it for 10-15 mins for each dip cycle. As for the mixer I use an ole drill press I bought salvage. I do not know the gear ratio but it is set for the slowest speed. The motor spins at 3450 rpm and is made for continuous use.
How long does this entire process take to complete?
How long to “Dip” a shell? Or the entire process of metal casting?
@@LunarburnStudio Hmm I had been asking about how long to "dip" a shell, but I'm also curious as to how long it takes to do the entire process.
A typical shell is 10 dips. First few take and hour to dry, later ones more like 2-3 hr. So you can power through in 24 hrs. My dip cycle is usual spred over 3 days.
As for the whole casting process. If you would go to a commercial art foundry with a pattern/sculpture they would say 3 months start to finish. 1 month for the mold, 1 for the wax positive, and 1 for the metal casting.
It can be faster if you know the process and can do some of the work.
hello eric
i need to mix this ceramic shell i have a silca flower what i need more to mix with and ratio please
in the video u add the silica in green liquid what is it
and in the last slica flower and collocdil slica are same ?
and thanks
NOt all silica flower is the same, what type do you have? Fused silica, alumina, other? the colloidal is the liquid. Ratio that i use in 1 part liquid and 2 parts dry (flour). this will make a white/gray color mixture. The green in my slurry is a color indicator that helps tell you when your shell is dry before dipping the next coat.
I got a lot out of this video and just subscribed. I hope to learn more. Thank you!
Btw, if I had a small-ish tree of rings or pendants (fits within a 3"x5" flask?) how long would the overall process take of dipping, sanding and drying, then being ready to cast? (mixing time not included) I'm trying to figure out the advantages of the silica-gypsum process. Which captures more detail? I thought I'd put those out there. Thank you!!
My first question would be what kind of metal are you casting. If gold or silver i would stay with silica-gypsum. As for "Time" Dipping a shell that size could take several days depending on the environment you working in (how humid and how much air flow in the room). So longer than it takes to pour the silica gypsum. Where you will make up time is in the burnout. if done right the level of detail is about the same.
@@LunarburnStudio Thanks for your really helpful answer! I think I'll be melting copper alloys to start. Maybe nickel-copper or some of the bronzes. Maybe make some sterling. I'd like to stay away from fuming metals and lots of dross for now. I'd like to study the basics intensely, then produce something marketable as a soon as is practical, if I can make something good that people are attracted to.
I really enjoyed your bio on your channel. Deeply written! I really enjoy your forthright energy and how you present things.
I think I need a basic study course, like in the old days, in a really thick book lol How to do each aspect and the considerations of why. I'm trying to develop a list of cohesive questions just to focus on the subject. I plan to go to your website soon. I appreciate your time a whole lot! Thank you!
I would come dip for you just to see your process and how you operate. Do you use Sp-30 for your back-up coats? The foundry I worked for ran a lot of work a week. The system we ran might not be as cost efficient for a smaller operation. Our slurry tanks ran 24/7 or it would separate and harden. I really enjoy your videos. I really makes me miss my old job. I worked in a foundry for almost 15 years. With that said your videos are the best examples of informing people. Thanks.
I run a one slurry system and the colloidal I use is Remets Adbond ll. I have been doing foundry work for closed to 40 years (started in high school shop class). I have taken a few brakes but always find myself going back to it. Where are you located?
@@LunarburnStudio I'm in Oregon and spent many years working for Valley Bronze of Oregon in Joseph. We did a two part slurry. Primary coat and then back-up coats, but used Remet as well.
Thank you
You r a gintel man
would you say slurry has some environmental damages ?
Some but Not much I think, but it is a silica hazard for your respiratory system
Hey mate is the ceramic a porcelain? Or earthenware? Thanks
Actually neither, both of those start off as clay (typically from the earth) before being fired and transforming into ceramic. Ceramics are various materials that harden when heated, including clay.
Thank you for these videos! Very informative. A couple questions - what rpm do you run your mixer paddle at? Also, do you do total solids testing? I am currently doing plaster investment but very keen to make the move to ceramic. Thanks & keep up the good videos!
I am glad your are finding my videos helpful. Im not sure of the RPM of my mixer. It's an old drill press and have it on a low speed. You want it mixing fast enough to visibly see the material moving but not fast enough to create a vortex. The reason a vortex is bad is that can draw air into the mix creating bubbles that can interfere with detail on the first dip and will dehydrate to slurry faster.
@@LunarburnStudio Thank you! Great info. Another question - I cannot get AD-II colloidal locally, but can get Ludox SK-R polymer enhanced. Have you ever tried this product before? Keep up the great work.
Por favor soy de argentina,podrían nombrar los productos químicos que emplean en estos procesos????? Muchas gracias!!!! Please!!!
Bro conodical silica can must add for making slurry ?
Yes colloidal silica is the base component to the slurry. Unfortunately I do not know how to make the colloidal from raw materials.
Hi Eric,
Thanks for your great videos! I really appreciate you for sharing your experience in such a detailed way. I'm planning to make my first ceramic shell soon, the only problem I ran into is that I can't get my hands on 400 mesh silica flour. Do you think that 200 mesh will also work? I expect that it might not stay suspended as long as 400 mesh but I can't think of any other disadvantages. I'm curious about your opinion.
The 200 mesh should be fine, but you will most likely need to mix you shell a little more often. 200 mesh is typically for backup coats. So when doing your first coat just be extra diligent to to get a smooth coat without bubbles to get the best detail.
Thanks a lot! I'll give it a try.
Looking forward to new videos.
Are you planning to do a video on casting the sculls?
@@sebastiaanvangerwen7989 Yes, I am working my way through the process and will be showing casting soon, but first need to finish build my new furnace.
Hey I haven't watched all your videos or read all the comments but I will, in case this didn't come up though did you add water to your mix at some point and how much?
HI Eric, do you think it's worth degassing the slurry?
What problem did I mention that made you think degassing?
@@LunarburnStudio Just seen other people degassing the latex when making the mold and then degassing the ceramic slurry, I was unsure why they're doing that extra step if it really isn't necessary. I was going to build a vacuum chamber but you didn't seem to have a problem with bubbles so now I'm not.
Você tem links aonde encontro pra comprar esse produto pronto.
Yes, Remet and Ransom and Randolf both have a ready made slurry. I am currently working on a video review of both.
@@LunarburnStudio valeu obrigado
Hi! thanks for the video. I am doing it at home, and slurry becomes little thick. In this case what should I add more? should I add more of colloidal silica?
The slurry can thicken as water evaporates from the slurry. To thin the slurry add distilled water in small amounts, mixing between each addition till its back to the desired thickness.
@@LunarburnStudio I used 25kg of colloidal silica, 50kg of fused silica, and 6.25 kg of bentonite. Then got a thicker result. What possibly did I do wrong?
The amount of bentonite is too high. Should have been 150 grams at that ratio.
Im trying to think of a solution for your situating. Adding more water might help, but best to add both colloidal (1) and flour(2) @ the ratio of 1 to 2. Although im guess if you are doing this at home your are limited by space.
The recipe i use is 55 pounds colloidal, 110 pounds silica flour and a .25-.33 pound of bentonite.
@@LunarburnStudio thank you. I will try again.
can help me sir
I will try to, can you be more specific?
Sir, thank you very much for the quick response, sir. I want to know what the wax is used for in the design, and I want to know what the liquid in which the wax is placed and what is the powder that is placed on the wax after it comes out of the liquid and I want to do this method at home Does it work? Thank you, please. I may ask you other times to learn from you and to know
@@kink_ I prefer a microcrystalline wax, but a number of waxes can work. Just be careful with candle waxes as they can be more flammable and can cause issues during burnout. Check out my videos on wax working. ruclips.net/video/twt3fXp6B8U/видео.html As for the liquid its called slurry and is a mixture on silica colloidal and silica flour. I prefer fused silica which is a fired quartz. So silica four for the slurry and silica sand to coat the wet slurry after dipping your wax.
I launch a investment casting factory but in this area where no body idea how to make slurry plzz send me slurry making step by step and how much quantity in 10 kg slurry and which kind products add in slurry
Greetings, Happy to help if i can. Where is your foundry located? Have you used ceramic shell investment before?
The main ingredient to the ceramic slurry is Colloidal silica. It is best if you can find a supplier locally as this product is ruined if it freezes during transport. If you do order from the US, you will need to order late spring till early fall.
I m from pakistan
+923134757647 my whatsapp number
Sir in 1 kg collodical silica which type of liquid add can i add in water and how much quantity of water in silica and mixing how much minutes
Bro slurry composition
The recipe you use will depend on the materials you are able to source. With Remet's Adbond II (colloidal) and 400 mesh (RP-1) fused silica flour my ratio is 1 part colloidal and 2 parts flour. But again, the ratio could be a little different depending on the specific ingredient you use. Check with the manufacture for their suggested ratio. The perk of mixing your own slurry is that once you understand your base mix, you then have the option of tweak it if need be to your needs.
@@LunarburnStudio bro what is 400 mesh
@@LunarburnStudio AdbondII ?
Suspension agent
I use bentonite to help suspend my slurry.
Just found your channel the other day and your content is outstanding. I'm trying to use your outlined processes to aid in making a negative mold for aluminum casting which in turn will be used for plastic injection molding hopefully. Your in-depth analysis is great. Thank you!!!
Interesting project. Let me know if you have any questions.
Bro plzz help me
Sorry for the delay. Before starting this channel I didnt realize how hard to find these materials are to find in most regions. Are there and local foundries in your ares that you can connect with?