Definitely worth replacing all the bushes on the diff mounting and also on the lower wishbones too whilst it’s all apart. Diff seals/bearings can be ‘interesting’ to remove. You’ll probably need heat.
Hi Ian, I'm enjoying your videos and they have helped me with the restoration of my +2. I have taken the body off the chassis which makes some operations a little easier. May I ask the routing of the hand brake cable when it emerges close to the diff? How does it make the right-hand bend from the chassis to the brake tree?
Thanks Ian. If you can tell me which side and where the hand brake cable and brake pipe enter and leave the chassis spine that would be great@@ianj3663
Hi Tony, The front of the car was up on axle stands and I placed a car ramp under the chassis at the rear at the end of the transmission tunnel, with a wooden block between the ramp and the chassis. This gave a 3 point support which is remarkably stable. I did this when the struts and wheels were still on the car using the jacking points and a succession of blocks of increasing height to get it high enough for the ramp to be pushed under the car. I will make a 'short' video so you can see how.
Thx..it would be great if you make the video..interesting to see how your chassis ramp method deals with the exhaust that runs along the middle of the chassis.
Put those shafts on my +2, made no difference to the drive, its the strombergs that make it stutter. The idiot who put the new chassis in put the bolts the diff housing bolts the wrong way up, that took some sawing off ...
yours came out a lot easier than on my elan sprint
Definitely worth replacing all the bushes on the diff mounting and also on the lower wishbones too whilst it’s all apart. Diff seals/bearings can be ‘interesting’ to remove. You’ll probably need heat.
Yep, I'll probably refurbish the whole suspension while I'm at it. Thanks for the heads up on the diff seals.
good effort, maybe change/restore the rest of the suspension whilst is all easy to get to?
Hi Ian, I'm enjoying your videos and they have helped me with the restoration of my +2. I have taken the body off the chassis which makes some operations a little easier. May I ask the routing of the hand brake cable when it emerges close to the diff? How does it make the right-hand bend from the chassis to the brake tree?
Hi Michael, I'll have a look and get some pictures if I can.
Thanks Ian. If you can tell me which side and where the hand brake cable and brake pipe enter and leave the chassis spine that would be great@@ianj3663
Great video: but could you explain how/ where you lifted and supported the car to get the drive shafts and diff out..thx..Tony
Hi Tony, The front of the car was up on axle stands and I placed a car ramp under the chassis at the rear at the end of the transmission tunnel, with a wooden block between the ramp and the chassis. This gave a 3 point support which is remarkably stable. I did this when the struts and wheels were still on the car using the jacking points and a succession of blocks of increasing height to get it high enough for the ramp to be pushed under the car. I will make a 'short' video so you can see how.
Thx..it would be great if you make the video..interesting to see how your chassis ramp method deals with the exhaust that runs along the middle of the chassis.
Put those shafts on my +2, made no difference to the drive, its the strombergs that make it stutter. The idiot who put the new chassis in put the bolts the diff housing bolts the wrong way up, that took some sawing off ...
I can imagine that was a right pain ,,,the bolts in the wrong way up. Easier to install the diff though, but not remove