Now days there is a large selection of VFD's that have a single phase input and a 3 phase output. Definitely the way to go for slower speeds while retaining some torque. Great example of a setup as always Tubalcain.
The post at the top of the motor mounting plate was originally to accommodate the jack shaft accessory, which was the factory’s means of reducing (or increasing) the spindle speed. That it also served to support the rear belt cover- which came later- was a bonus.
That horn sticking up that you showed at 6:42 isn't a belt guard support. Walker and Turner sometimes sold this drill press with a 4 step intermediate idler pulley setup. The horn was there to hold a support shaft that had this pulley suspended below it (Right above the pillar). They were a bit fiddly to change speeds with this setup, And many of the horns got the top snapped off when people loosened the pillar clamp without supporting the head, causing it to drop and forcing the top of the pillar up into the idler pulley (The support shaft was only held at the motor mount end), But it did give this drill press the ability to run slow enough to wind some seriously big drill bits through thick plate steel. :)
I think you will love that 3 phase motor setup with the TECO VFD. High amount of torque all the way from slow to fast. With a pulley change, m wondering how slow you can really go! Thanks for your videos! Always enjoy them. Respectfully, Kevin
I have a similar teco drive on my drill press the programming manual has options for ramp times and they do permit the unit to be thrown into reverse without stopping. It will just follow the ramp time to 0 then ramp back up in the other direction. Very useful for tapping.
the results are quite good, 3 phases motors are always my first choice for powering a tool, it's got good torque and are very smooth on applying power... I think I've seen some VFDs that can take 120volts power single phase and transform it to 240volts 3 phases, something i'd like to look into sometime, just to check if a 15 amps regular power outlet can do good enough with this sort of set-up with lte's say a 220volts 3 phases 1hp motor...
Looks great! I've been using VFD's (and hall-effect sensors) on all my home shop machinery for years. They have proven to be very reliable and when properly over-sized, they generate very little heat. I mounted all of my VFD's in sealed 10"x10" Bud enclosures with the control switches mounted right on them. I've monitored the heat inside the box, and even after heavy use, it has never been more than 20 -30 degrees above ambient. Also, your VFD may have a DC output intended for control circuitry. You can often use that to power your tachometer. That's what I've done on all of mine, and it really simplifies the whole installation.
Dear Mr Pete, if you place a piece of scotch-brite or similar, on the VFD vent, it will prevent most of the dust and chips from entering it but will allow good airflow.
Yes. I have a question for you Randy. It is concerning the other VFD set up the Palmer gave me and I have it mounted on the bandsaw. When I push the start button , Sometimes it runs in forward and sometimes it starts in reverse. I know it's in the programming, but do not know what to do. That is using the switch that is on the VFD. Perhaps I should use a separate switch?
Great! Interestingly, I purchased a VFD recently; that is identical to what you have. And in the manual it mentions "torque"; and what to do (in programming) to improve the torque at slow speeds. I imagine your friend did this on your setup. Also, I doubt (but I am not sure) that the motor would get too hot at slower speeds. I would be interested to know either way. So when I install mine on a Jointer/Planer to get variable "feed" speeds (when planing), to see if it runs too hot at slow speeds. I will let you know. And thanks again Lyle. It is an honor to watch what you do on your "edutational" videos. They are amongst THE very best. You are awesome and what is not to luv about our "Mr Pete"? Huh?
Hi Lyle we use Multi-Drive in one or two applications one is a finishing lathe of sanding between centers. What a cam ham, your drill press needed to be lowered on the shaft to film better, we train our machinery to comply with the filming as they are. LOL. That is a nice thick electric cord even like the plug for it 8 feet is great also. Thank you for the video VFD speed controllers really work well total control in our experience. Thank you for the share mr.pete, Lance & Patrick.
Thank you boys. My ceiling in the basement is very low, sometimes have trouble filming some thing that is tall. Yes, a nice heavy and flexible rubber cord. Hate for those vinyl cords that are stiff and unruly, especially in Illinois weather
Looks like a good match up...I prefer the Total Enclosed Fan Cooled (TEFC) motors like yours not only do they keep debris and moisture out, but tend to be more VFD friendly due to the higher iron and steel content....thanks for sharing.
Mr Pete, The projection on the motor mount casting is for an optional Jackshaft speed reduction pulley. Probably rare as hens teeth to find an original, but could make an interesting video series if wanted to make one ; ) I do remember you saying you don’t like fiddling with belts though.
good call on the strain relief (I assume you added the electrical clamp). You would probably get one of those crappy plastic ones that can rip right out and tear up the circuit board. I do this to my light fixtures (along with a dash of silicone II).
The inverter-rated motors that I have on my mill and drill press have been perfectly happy with the VFD carrier frequency maxed out to 15khz, and are completely silent (to my ears). I think both my Teco and Fuji VFD's defaulted to a 5khz carrier, which was very close to being painful.
Mr. Pete, I tried to look up your t-shirt at store frontier and nothing came up...? I tried tubalcain, mr. pete, mrpete, etc...and still "no results". I have a VFD on my model 1100 Walker Turner, I absolutely love it.
I bought a new vfd and three phase motor for my Craftsman 1/2 inch drill press.. It works fair but with larger drill bits, that is over 5/8 inch, it will stall drilling steel...I have another Craftsman 1/2 inch drill press with a Reeves drive and right angle gear box that works perfectly at any speed and with larger drill bits...I much prefer the Reeves setup.... Mike in Louisiana
I agree with you. I just do not think you can beat a gearbox. And the variable speed drives with a big fat belt does not seem to slip. It's a great set up.
@@mrpete222 I used a farm duty 3/4 hp 1725 single phase 115 volt motor with a standard Reeves drive coupled to a right angle gearbox from an old Woods finishing mower and ran the vertical shaft to the top of the drill press where I mounted in pillow bearings and used step pulley similar to the original motor setup...I have universal joints in the shaft to facilitate belt adjustment..The drill press is a table model so it fits on top of a table with all the drive underneath..Four step pulleys with infinite Reeves drive totally solve the speed and torque problem.. I think I have drilled one inch holes with this light press.. Mike in Louisiana
Thank you mrpete222 I have the same Walker Turner and am ready to convert it. This is very helpful if you want to sell your old set up let me know I will take it off your hands.
Hi Shop Professor… I hope you are feeling better! Does a VSD cause to motor to overheat and burn out sooner that usual??? How can this be avoided in practice & equipment adaptations??? How can the VSD be adapted to my Delta DP220, 14” drill press, have a variable speed with given belt positions and give reliable RPM readouts
Mr. Pete For dust control on that vfd, the make ver inexpensive computer fan filters that can easily be used on top if that vfd to keep dust/chips/etc out of the vfd John
MR. PETE could you please recommend a video on operating the Walker turner 16 inch bandsaw mechanical transmission.. Also what is sticky grease Thanks in advance
Mr. Pete, My grandfather had your drill press. I remember in later years it needed a new belt. He never changed it due to the bearing above the spindle pulley. It required considerable disassembly to remove and replace the belt. I remember rhinki f it was a really cool machine until I got out in the world and saw production versions of drill presses. Enjoy the videos.
G’day Mr Pete. It looks good, works well but the power pack plugged in at the top looks terrible (is it level?). I suggest a very short extension lead and hang the power pack over the back. Well done. Peter
thanks for that video; very well done. I have the exact same drill press. Love the speed controller. Didn’t see a link to learn more about the control. If you have it handy, could you provide it? Also, I need a return spring for this baby. Hard to find. Any ideas where to get one? Inside of the 3/4” (19mm) spring is a hole. Outside of the spring has a hook. OD is 58mm. thanks!
Switches: you don't want to cut power to a VFD while it's driving a load. Your main power switch should only be turned off when the motor is stopped. The red button is sending run & stop commands to the VFD, which is what you want when using the drill press. When I set up my lathe with a VFD, the master disconnect switch, equivalent to your ivory light switch, went on the back of the cabinet. It actually interlocks with the door to prevent opening it with the power on.
Lyle, About Time! What about the Shaper & Horizontal Mill? T-Hirts and aprons for the ladies and BBQ viewers? Hop to it, Sir! Spring arrived with fine weather.
Is that high frequency squeal, electronic noise, coming from the VFD? Nice to have a VFD to control the speed, when it can deliver the needed torque. About to purchase a new to me floor model drill press, GOOD LORD willing, and I have a VFD and a 220v 3ph motor ready to go on it. Love your videos. Keep 'em coming! Don't let RR get in in trouble in CA!!
@@mrpete222 LoL, I agree. Running at the speeds needed for metal would make them more expensive and harder to produce. Us hobby guys have made due with them for years. Nice to see you made something that helps the speed issues.
Thanks for this informative video. RPM is a problem for all of us. VFD I am afraid to go on milling machines because of the loss of torque at low rpm. I have a small mill with DC variable drive, I love the possibility but it looses torque too. I wonder how did you get the 3 phase in your house. Thanks for the many helpful videos.
the other thing you can do to give it a 'neutral' is wire in a relay/contactor that acts as the shutoff, then put in a 3 way switch with a middle position, and have the neutral position as a contactor trigger so when you flip it into neutral it cycles a contactor to disconnect the motor (obviously don't wire your emergency / hard off switch to the same contactor). Be sure to use a arc supressor of some kind if you do this (i.e. a few MOVs).
and test your VFD to make sure it can tolerate the load being opened randomly. Otherwise it gets more complicated and you might need to some how trick it (doubt its worth the effort to make a RPM override signal which gently ramps it down when the switch is toggled).
I like the idea of a VFD, I would like to add one to my newly acquired South Bend 9A, it has a 1/3 horsepower motor on it now, not sure if it is original, but that seems small. Do you think a VFD would work with that Lathe? Or is that not a good idea? Good video anyway.
Hello there Mr Tubalcain... I have a drill press similar to the one you displaying.. and i need your help.. my press is a quadrill.. and i will like to put keyless chucks on all for ... my question for you is do you know the taper size of it.. I bought one on Amazon and it was to big.. I dont know the measurements of it.. but i see you got one just like it.. I will appreciate very much if you can help me thank you.
I have a similar press... I am not very mechanical... My press is not turning the shaft. The pulleys turn but it's not grabbing the shaft. I see a couple of allan set screws on the pulley. Is that what needs to be worked at?
Flipping to reverse (even accidentally) with the VFD shouldn't have any major consequence to the drive or motor based on parameters*. Look at the parameters set in the drive for acceleration (time) and deceleration (time). It's usually in seconds with a single decimal point i.e. 3.2 seconds. This allows the drive to add or subtract voltage at a set curve (voltage over time). To either start or stop the motor, or in this case, start, stop, change direction and start again. Tapping on the drill press may be limited to the size (small) of the machine and the parameters set for the above mentioned. The VFD is also capable of a JOG command / momentary push button control (with additional parameters* possibly). If you wish to "TAP" I would set up the JOG (momentary switch) with a FWD and REV selector switch. I run a VFD on my mill. I might add that I use a 3HP drive and a 1.5 HP motor. This is how I power "TAP" on my Bridgeport.
The VFD is obviously programmed to accelerate/decelerate rather slowly, so switching directly between Fwd/Rev should be perfectly OK. It will simply decelerate slowly and accelerate again in the other direction.
Here I go running your life again. Electricians refer to reversing a running motor's direction by flipping the switch as "plug reversing." Thanks to the VFD's built-in current limiting, you can plug reverse the connected motor any number of times without damage to motor or VFD. So you can power tap with reckless abandon. Apparently Palmer didn't tweak the VFD parameter settings for convenience and piece of mind. That high pitch ringing would drive me nuts. Your FVD probably came set to the lowest "carrier frequency" by the factory to accommodate long wiring runs between motor and VFD. Since the wiring in your set-up can be measured in inches, it doesn't matter what the freq setting is. I suggest you consult the manual and set the carrier frequency parameter to some inaudible range, say, 15 Khz. Motor accel and decel are apparently still at the factory setting, possibly 10 seconds - safe maybe, but too leisurely for normal operation. I suggest these parameters be set to 2 seconds and 3 seconds respectively. If you plug reverse your drill press or even punch the stop button at the highest belted ratio and the motor speed near the upper RPM setting, your VFD may fault resulting in the motor losing power and an uncontrolled coast down to a stop. No big deal but a PITA. You may have to work out a compromise (in the accel and decel parameters) between crisp plug reversal and nuisance fault trips. I suggest you install a "center-off" reversing switch and relocate is to a more convenient place where it's not obstructed by the other panel apparatus. I have the identical arrangement on my 1947 Craftsnan drill press. The center-off reverse switch is my primary operator control. Once you get the control arrangement and parameters to your liking, I think you'll find you can power tap 1/2 - 13 at 300 RPM (lowest belt ratio) with only mild panic towards the bottom of a blind hole. Suggestion: power tap only with gun taps or spiral fluted taps. Hand taps are risky for power tapping because of chip bridging in the flutes. I HATE digging out busted taps. I never break gun taps or spiral fluted taps on my drill press unless I fall asleep tapping a blind hole. I think you're correct in there being no real need for a full enclosure for your VFD. That is, if its located out of the drift range of your grinders and sanders. I suggest a roomy "hat" guard to protect the upper part of your VFD from falling debris and settling dust. You're pretty muscular for an old fart. I'm your age and twice your size but I don't think I could safely rassle that assembled motor and drive on the head of your drill press. That's what 6 ft 8" nephews are for.
@@mrpete222 I'd like to help you in detail but anything I have to offer would be very lengthy and only a poor duplicate of what's in the Teco FM 50 manual which you have right there handy Consult pages 35 to 48 thereabouts for setting the accel/decel and carrier frequency parameters (programming) and Page 17 for wiring the controls in support of the reversing switch. As it happens, all that's necessary for the reversing switch is a straight wire-for-wire change-out on the new center-off switch. . What distinguishes a center-off switch from a plain vanilla single pole double throw (SPDT) is instead of two positions, there are three: FWD - OFF - REV. This single pole, double throw, center-off switch is a common item available from most any electrical supply house and Ebay (and possibly the local home center) for less than ten bucks
Lyle, you and I are both quite hard of hearing..... having been around industry for yourself, and broadcast television for me .........but our lack of hearing is very similar......The people that write comments that are derogatory about the squealing of the VFD will continue each and every time that you use that drill press in a RUclips video so I believe that we should change the parameters on the VFD programming.....also it might make it more pleasant for your grandson, Little Henry to be in the shop. His hearing is probably perfect and he can probably hear you running that VFD in your basement from his house next door. So lets try one function parameter at a time....I know you don't like to mess with the programming but I really think you can do this.....Go to the front panel of the VFD and push the button FUNCTION which actually say FUN, that will take you to a screen that will report the last function your machine was left on......Now, if it says 001 punch the UP arrow key to where it reports 040......conversely if it says 054 then punch the DOWN arrow key to where it says 040 The function we need to adjust is Carrier Frequency and the choices are 004 thru 016......…..the factory default is 010 which corresponds to 10 kilohertz which is the frequency that every one is complaining about...... my money is that it is still set from the factory at 010.....I would like you to hit the UP arrow key and make that parameter go to an 014 or maybe a 015.....this will make the carrier frequency change to 14 kHZ or 15 kHZ …..when it says 014 or 015 I want you to hit the enter button ENT then touch the DSP button for regular display and let the VFD reboot by turning off the ivory switch and waiting for all the lights to go out on the VFD then turn back on the ivory switch and let the VFD come up in its new mode of operation...…. at this point Little Henry's frown should disappear from his face when you run the drill press.....you shouldn't be able to tell the difference in operation....but just in case remember where the carrier freq. was in case we have to go back for some reason.....If I've steered you wrong here......I'm sure we will hear from viewers and I invite any other owners of TECO VFD's to correct me...….I actually don't have the manual to Mr. Petes VFD because I gave it to him so I am going from memory and another version of the manual that I have that I think is similar. I hope there is a way that you can modify your tachometer magnet mount and put the belt on the lowest most powerful, most torque pulleys....that will still let you go probably as fast as you need for metal work and have more low speed torque, which is the whole idea for this exercise. Your Hard of Hearing Friend, Palmer PS at 15kHZ there still may be a few curious dogs on your property at various times
I don’t know why but every vfd I hear squeals something terrible besides the fact they cost more than my machines I don’t think I could run one just from the sound.
Though I do think you should read your VFD manual and see if it has a analog input from a 10K potentiometer or something. The control system on those is shit, I think you would be happier if you got a beefy HELIPOT or something (probobly 10k you wire in with a shielded 3 wire cable). You could put it in a nice box to have a analog control of the VFD. Position the box at the best place and just use the VFD as a display. www.amazon.com/Siemens-52MA3B14-Potentiometer-Operator-kiloohms/dp/B008SHV9EI Just read the spec for the VFD to see what kind of analog control it accepts and find a nice potentiometer you like with the correct value, you can even make your own knob for it.
MR PETE ; TOO MUCH COMPLICATION ; JUST USE A TWO SPEED MOTOR WITH STEP PULLY AND IT TAKES CARE ON 99% OF MY WORK IN LAST 50 YEARS, MOVE ON AND GETER DONE !!! CARL
Now days there is a large selection of VFD's that have a single phase input and a 3 phase output. Definitely the way to go for slower speeds while retaining some torque. Great example of a setup as always Tubalcain.
It is interesting to see that the machines from the "cast iron" days still works great. Thanks for another interesting video.
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The post at the top of the motor mounting plate was originally to accommodate the jack shaft accessory, which was the factory’s means of reducing (or increasing) the spindle speed. That it also served to support the rear belt cover- which came later- was a bonus.
Love this channel for machining. So glad to find this too.
Thanks
Very generous gift from Palmer. You couldn't ask for an easier install. Thanks.
That horn sticking up that you showed at 6:42 isn't a belt guard support. Walker and Turner sometimes sold this drill press with a 4 step intermediate idler pulley setup. The horn was there to hold a support shaft that had this pulley suspended below it (Right above the pillar). They were a bit fiddly to change speeds with this setup, And many of the horns got the top snapped off when people loosened the pillar clamp without supporting the head, causing it to drop and forcing the top of the pillar up into the idler pulley (The support shaft was only held at the motor mount end), But it did give this drill press the ability to run slow enough to wind some seriously big drill bits through thick plate steel. :)
I think you will love that 3 phase motor setup with the TECO VFD. High amount of torque all the way from slow to fast. With a pulley change, m wondering how slow you can really go! Thanks for your videos! Always enjoy them. Respectfully, Kevin
Thanks
Very educational! Thank you my good sir!
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I have a similar teco drive on my drill press the programming manual has options for ramp times and they do permit the unit to be thrown into reverse without stopping. It will just follow the ramp time to 0 then ramp back up in the other direction. Very useful for tapping.
Thanks
the results are quite good, 3 phases motors are always my first choice for powering a tool, it's got good torque and are very smooth on applying power... I think I've seen some VFDs that can take 120volts power single phase and transform it to 240volts 3 phases, something i'd like to look into sometime, just to check if a 15 amps regular power outlet can do good enough with this sort of set-up with lte's say a 220volts 3 phases 1hp motor...
Looks great! I've been using VFD's (and hall-effect sensors) on all my home shop machinery for years. They have proven to be very reliable and when properly over-sized, they generate very little heat. I mounted all of my VFD's in sealed 10"x10" Bud enclosures with the control switches mounted right on them. I've monitored the heat inside the box, and even after heavy use, it has never been more than 20 -30 degrees above ambient. Also, your VFD may have a DC output intended for control circuitry. You can often use that to power your tachometer. That's what I've done on all of mine, and it really simplifies the whole installation.
Thanks
Dear Mr Pete, if you place a piece of scotch-brite or similar, on the VFD vent, it will prevent most of the dust and chips from entering it but will allow good airflow.
Thanks
Worked out great, and thanks to Palmer.
Yes. I have a question for you Randy. It is concerning the other VFD set up the Palmer gave me and I have it mounted on the bandsaw. When I push the start button , Sometimes it runs in forward and sometimes it starts in reverse. I know it's in the programming, but do not know what to do. That is using the switch that is on the VFD. Perhaps I should use a separate switch?
@@mrpete222 That is very odd. I am not quite sure what is up there.
@@mrpete222 It sounds like more of a motor issue.
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Great!
Interestingly, I purchased a VFD recently; that is identical to what you have. And in the manual it mentions "torque"; and what to do (in programming) to improve the torque at slow speeds.
I imagine your friend did this on your setup.
Also, I doubt (but I am not sure) that the motor would get too hot at slower speeds. I would be interested to know either way. So when I install mine on a Jointer/Planer to get variable "feed" speeds (when planing), to see if it runs too hot at slow speeds. I will let you know.
And thanks again Lyle. It is an honor to watch what you do on your "edutational" videos. They are amongst THE very best. You are awesome and what is not to luv about our "Mr Pete"?
Huh?
Thank you very much for the high compliment
Hi Lyle we use Multi-Drive in one or two applications one is a finishing lathe of sanding between centers. What a cam ham, your drill press needed to be lowered on the shaft to film better, we train our machinery to comply with the filming as they are. LOL.
That is a nice thick electric cord even like the plug for it 8 feet is great also.
Thank you for the video VFD speed controllers really work well total control in our experience.
Thank you for the share mr.pete, Lance & Patrick.
Thank you boys. My ceiling in the basement is very low, sometimes have trouble filming some thing that is tall. Yes, a nice heavy and flexible rubber cord. Hate for those vinyl cords that are stiff and unruly, especially in Illinois weather
Looks like a good match up...I prefer the Total Enclosed Fan Cooled (TEFC) motors like yours not only do they keep debris and moisture out, but tend to be more VFD friendly due to the higher iron and steel content....thanks for sharing.
Yes
Mr Pete, The projection on the motor mount casting is for an optional Jackshaft speed reduction pulley. Probably rare as hens teeth to find an original, but could make an interesting video series if wanted to make one ; ) I do remember you saying you don’t like fiddling with belts though.
Yes thanks
love my Teco Pete works like a champ and I know it will work . yes its is best by the best and I count on them.
Very edumacational! Thanks! Coo!
lol
good call on the strain relief (I assume you added the electrical clamp). You would probably get one of those crappy plastic ones that can rip right out and tear up the circuit board. I do this to my light fixtures (along with a dash of silicone II).
Thanks
Thanks for sharing 👍🇦🇺
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The inverter-rated motors that I have on my mill and drill press have been perfectly happy with the VFD carrier frequency maxed out to 15khz, and are completely silent (to my ears). I think both my Teco and Fuji VFD's defaulted to a 5khz carrier, which was very close to being painful.
Mr. Pete, I tried to look up your t-shirt at store frontier and nothing came up...? I tried tubalcain, mr. pete, mrpete, etc...and still "no results". I have a VFD on my model 1100 Walker Turner, I absolutely love it.
Try this. Www.storefrontier.com/store/tubalcain. Let me know if it works
I bought a new vfd and three phase motor for my Craftsman 1/2 inch drill press.. It works fair but with larger drill bits, that is over 5/8 inch, it will stall drilling steel...I have another Craftsman 1/2 inch drill press with a Reeves drive and right angle gear box that works perfectly at any speed and with larger drill bits...I much prefer the Reeves setup.... Mike in Louisiana
I agree with you. I just do not think you can beat a gearbox. And the variable speed drives with a big fat belt does not seem to slip. It's a great set up.
@@mrpete222 I used a farm duty 3/4 hp 1725 single phase 115 volt motor with a standard Reeves drive coupled to a right angle gearbox from an old Woods finishing mower and ran the vertical shaft to the top of the drill press where I mounted in pillow bearings and used step pulley similar to the original motor setup...I have universal joints in the shaft to facilitate belt adjustment..The drill press is a table model so it fits on top of a table with all the drive underneath..Four step pulleys with infinite Reeves drive totally solve the speed and torque problem.. I think I have drilled one inch holes with this light press.. Mike in Louisiana
Thank you mrpete222 I have the same Walker Turner and am ready to convert it. This is very helpful if you want to sell your old set up let me know I will take it off your hands.
Hi Shop Professor… I hope you are feeling better! Does a VSD cause to motor to overheat and burn out sooner that usual??? How can this be avoided in practice & equipment adaptations??? How can the VSD be adapted to my Delta DP220, 14” drill press, have a variable speed with given belt positions and give reliable RPM readouts
Great video as always Mr. Pete! You da man!!
Looks like that drill press cut very well with that VFD.
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Mr. Pete
For dust control on that vfd, the make ver inexpensive computer fan filters that can easily be used on top if that vfd to keep dust/chips/etc out of the vfd
John
Thanks
That is a neat set up, I guess I just use my mill 90% of the time
MR. PETE could you please recommend a video on operating the Walker turner 16 inch bandsaw mechanical transmission.. Also what is sticky grease Thanks in advance
Mr. Pete,
My grandfather had your drill press. I remember in later years it needed a new belt. He never changed it due to the bearing above the spindle pulley. It required considerable disassembly to remove and replace the belt. I remember rhinki f it was a really cool machine until I got out in the world and saw production versions of drill presses. Enjoy the videos.
Thanks
G’day Mr Pete. It looks good, works well but the power pack plugged in at the top looks terrible (is it level?). I suggest a very short extension lead and hang the power pack over the back.
Well done.
Peter
thanks for that video; very well done. I have the exact same drill press. Love the speed controller. Didn’t see a link to learn more about the control. If you have it handy, could you provide it? Also, I need a return spring for this baby. Hard to find. Any ideas where to get one? Inside of the 3/4” (19mm) spring is a hole. Outside of the spring has a hook. OD is 58mm. thanks!
Switches: you don't want to cut power to a VFD while it's driving a load. Your main power switch should only be turned off when the motor is stopped. The red button is sending run & stop commands to the VFD, which is what you want when using the drill press.
When I set up my lathe with a VFD, the master disconnect switch, equivalent to your ivory light switch, went on the back of the cabinet. It actually interlocks with the door to prevent opening it with the power on.
I’m always glad that you refrain from saying ‘we’. Too many youtubers use that term.
Just say ‘I’.
Jeez I sound like Mr Pete having a rant.
Thank you, that is intentional, but sometimes I forget
Royal we. Man is speaking not goinng off a script from a team of marketing writers. just say thank you, for inviting me to learn from you.
Who cares. What a thing to nit pick about.
Andrew Delashaw
Yep. Rather petty of me. 😂
9:45 Forgot the belt, huh? Ha. I do that when it new plugs/terminals on extension cords. I used to always forget to slide the housing on first.
Nice video really enjoyed!
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Watching in Alabama
Lyle,
About Time!
What about the Shaper & Horizontal Mill?
T-Hirts and aprons for the ladies and BBQ viewers?
Hop to it, Sir!
Spring arrived with fine weather.
It didn't arrive here yet
I can't wait for you neighbor running his lawn mower. That would be a SURE sign spring arrived.
I have seen the Robins for the last 3-4 days.
Is that high frequency squeal, electronic noise, coming from the VFD? Nice to have a VFD to control the speed, when it can deliver the needed torque. About to purchase a new to me floor model drill press, GOOD LORD willing, and I have a VFD and a 220v 3ph motor ready to go on it. Love your videos. Keep 'em coming! Don't let RR get in in trouble in CA!!
Thanks
No, not the VFD. One would think that, since it's only happening when he turns it on, but it's coming from a bird outside the house.
Seemed to run that bit pretty good. My drill press runs 2X faster than I like in its lowest speed. Designed for wood really I guess.
Yes, they are all designed for wood. Actually I think they are designed for convenience of manufacturing
@@mrpete222 LoL, I agree. Running at the speeds needed for metal would make them more expensive and harder to produce. Us hobby guys have made due with them for years. Nice to see you made something that helps the speed issues.
Thanks for this informative video. RPM is a problem for all of us. VFD I am afraid to go on milling machines because of the loss of torque at low rpm. I have a small mill with DC variable drive, I love the possibility but it looses torque too. I wonder how did you get the 3 phase in your house. Thanks for the many helpful videos.
These VFDs run on single phase power and generate the three phase for the motor.
You won’t loose low speed torque if your VFD can be set to SVD mode. Not all VFD’s can implement SVD.
I have a similar 'Canadian" Drill Press by Canadian Blower and Forge. I wish mine had the 4 handles instead of 3.
Yes
the other thing you can do to give it a 'neutral' is wire in a relay/contactor that acts as the shutoff, then put in a 3 way switch with a middle position, and have the neutral position as a contactor trigger so when you flip it into neutral it cycles a contactor to disconnect the motor (obviously don't wire your emergency / hard off switch to the same contactor).
Be sure to use a arc supressor of some kind if you do this (i.e. a few MOVs).
and when the switch is not triggered the contactor would be wired to be on normally.
but test it with cheap parts first to make sure the VFD does not get a fit when its load is isolated with a contactor.
not triggered, i meant toggled to netural. So the Switch can be 1 2 3, the contactor would be 1 (on) 0 (off) 1 (on) in regards to switch toggle 1 2 3.
and test your VFD to make sure it can tolerate the load being opened randomly. Otherwise it gets more complicated and you might need to some how trick it (doubt its worth the effort to make a RPM override signal which gently ramps it down when the switch is toggled).
in case someone is interested, a very crude diagram
i.imgur.com/D05wU2p.png
I like the idea of a VFD, I would like to add one to my newly acquired South Bend 9A, it has a 1/3 horsepower motor on it now, not sure if it is original, but that seems small. Do you think a VFD would work with that Lathe? Or is that not a good idea? Good video anyway.
That press looks exactly like my Atlas! What's the input voltage going to your VFD?
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Thanks for sharing sir..
Hello there Mr Tubalcain... I have a drill press similar to the one you displaying.. and i need your help.. my press is a quadrill.. and i will like to put keyless chucks on all for ... my question for you is do you know the taper size of it.. I bought one on Amazon and it was to big.. I dont know the measurements of it.. but i see you got one just like it.. I will appreciate very much if you can help me thank you.
I do not know offhand, but that is in some of my other videos
I have a similar press... I am not very mechanical... My press is not turning the shaft. The pulleys turn but it's not grabbing the shaft. I see a couple of allan set screws on the pulley. Is that what needs to be worked at?
That’s a good place to start your troubleshooting
Flipping to reverse (even accidentally) with the VFD shouldn't have any major consequence to the drive or motor based on parameters*. Look at the parameters set in the drive for acceleration (time) and deceleration (time). It's usually in seconds with a single decimal point i.e. 3.2 seconds. This allows the drive to add or subtract voltage at a set curve (voltage over time). To either start or stop the motor, or in this case, start, stop, change direction and start again. Tapping on the drill press may be limited to the size (small) of the machine and the parameters set for the above mentioned. The VFD is also capable of a JOG command / momentary push button control (with additional parameters* possibly). If you wish to "TAP" I would set up the JOG (momentary switch) with a FWD and REV selector switch. I run a VFD on my mill. I might add that I use a 3HP drive and a 1.5 HP motor. This is how I power "TAP" on my Bridgeport.
hopefully that sound isn't as bad in person as it is on video....... that high pitch whistle is nasty 7:30
You should be able to get rid of that by changing the carrier frequency setting on the vfd.
The VFD is obviously programmed to accelerate/decelerate rather slowly, so switching directly between Fwd/Rev should be perfectly OK. It will simply decelerate slowly and accelerate again in the other direction.
Yes thanks
Now u have the motor and control could u make a single pully each end thats a lot bigger witgh and diamiter of belt
i reverse my drill press if i need to use my LEFT HAND bit's i have
Great video, but I would like to see you verify the spindle RPM's at the chuck.
I have a broke VFD. The computer interface thing costs 1000$ to diagnose it. The VFD itself is worth like 150$ ! Preposterous!
Yes
nice rig
Here I go running your life again.
Electricians refer to reversing a running motor's direction by flipping the switch as "plug reversing." Thanks to the VFD's built-in current limiting, you can plug reverse the connected motor any number of times without damage to motor or VFD. So you can power tap with reckless abandon.
Apparently Palmer didn't tweak the VFD parameter settings for convenience and piece of mind.
That high pitch ringing would drive me nuts. Your FVD probably came set to the lowest "carrier frequency" by the factory to accommodate long wiring runs between motor and VFD. Since the wiring in your set-up can be measured in inches, it doesn't matter what the freq setting is. I suggest you consult the manual and set the carrier frequency parameter to some inaudible range, say, 15 Khz.
Motor accel and decel are apparently still at the factory setting, possibly 10 seconds - safe maybe, but too leisurely for normal operation. I suggest these parameters be set to 2 seconds and 3 seconds respectively. If you plug reverse your drill press or even punch the stop button at the highest belted ratio and the motor speed near the upper RPM setting, your VFD may fault resulting in the motor losing power and an uncontrolled coast down to a stop. No big deal but a PITA. You may have to work out a compromise (in the accel and decel parameters) between crisp plug reversal and nuisance fault trips.
I suggest you install a "center-off" reversing switch and relocate is to a more convenient place where it's not obstructed by the other panel apparatus.
I have the identical arrangement on my 1947 Craftsnan drill press. The center-off reverse switch is my primary operator control. Once you get the control arrangement and parameters to your liking, I think you'll find you can power tap 1/2 - 13 at 300 RPM (lowest belt ratio) with only mild panic towards the bottom of a blind hole.
Suggestion: power tap only with gun taps or spiral fluted taps. Hand taps are risky for power tapping because of chip bridging in the flutes. I HATE digging out busted taps. I never break gun taps or spiral fluted taps on my drill press unless I fall asleep tapping a blind hole.
I think you're correct in there being no real need for a full enclosure for your VFD. That is, if its located out of the drift range of your grinders and sanders. I suggest a roomy "hat" guard to protect the upper part of your VFD from falling debris and settling dust.
You're pretty muscular for an old fart. I'm your age and twice your size but I don't think I could safely rassle that assembled motor and drive on the head of your drill press. That's what 6 ft 8" nephews are for.
Thank you for the information. But you lost me on some of the technical information about programming that thing
@@mrpete222 I'd like to help you in detail but anything I have to offer would be very lengthy and only a poor duplicate of what's in the Teco FM 50 manual which you have right there handy
Consult pages 35 to 48 thereabouts for setting the accel/decel and carrier frequency parameters (programming) and
Page 17 for wiring the controls in support of the reversing switch.
As it happens, all that's necessary for the reversing switch is a straight wire-for-wire change-out on the new center-off switch. . What distinguishes a center-off switch from a plain vanilla single pole double throw (SPDT) is instead of two positions, there are three: FWD - OFF - REV. This single pole, double throw, center-off switch is a common item available from most any electrical supply house and Ebay (and possibly the local home center) for less than ten bucks
Very nice !
Thanks
Nice👍👍👍👍
Is it really as noisy as it sounds?
Is this a Walker Turner Palmer drill press now? Lol
Yes lol
Lyle, you and I are both quite hard of hearing..... having been around industry for yourself, and broadcast television for me .........but our lack of hearing is very similar......The people that write comments that are derogatory about the squealing of the VFD will continue each and every time that you use that drill press in a RUclips video so I believe that we should change the parameters on the VFD programming.....also it might make it more pleasant for your grandson, Little Henry to be in the shop. His hearing is probably perfect and he can probably hear you running that VFD in your basement from his house next door.
So lets try one function parameter at a time....I know you don't like to mess with the programming but I really think you can do this.....Go to the front panel of the VFD and push the button FUNCTION which actually say FUN, that will take you to a screen that will report the last function your machine was left on......Now, if it says 001 punch the UP arrow key to where it reports 040......conversely if it says 054 then punch the DOWN arrow key to where it says 040 The function we need to adjust is Carrier Frequency and the choices are 004 thru 016......…..the factory default is 010 which corresponds to 10 kilohertz which is the frequency that every one is complaining about...... my money is that it is still set from the factory at 010.....I would like you to hit the UP arrow key and make that parameter go to an 014 or maybe a 015.....this will make the carrier frequency change to 14 kHZ or 15 kHZ …..when it says 014 or 015 I want you to hit the enter button ENT then touch the DSP button for regular display and let the VFD reboot by turning off the ivory switch and waiting for all the lights to go out on the VFD then turn back on the ivory switch and let the VFD come up in its new mode of operation...…. at this point Little Henry's frown should disappear from his face when you run the drill press.....you shouldn't be able to tell the difference in operation....but just in case remember where the carrier freq. was in case we have to go back for some reason.....If I've steered you wrong here......I'm sure we will hear from viewers and I invite any other owners of TECO VFD's to correct me...….I actually don't have the manual to Mr. Petes VFD because I gave it to him so I am going from memory and another version of the manual that I have that I think is similar. I hope there is a way that you can modify your tachometer magnet mount and put the belt on the lowest most powerful, most torque pulleys....that will still let you go probably as fast as you need for metal work and have more low speed torque, which is the whole idea for this exercise.
Your Hard of Hearing Friend, Palmer
PS at 15kHZ there still may be a few curious dogs on your property at various times
Show the south pole of magnet to Hall sensor !
I don’t know why but every vfd I hear squeals something terrible besides the fact they cost more than my machines I don’t think I could run one just from the sound.
You can get rid of that by adjusting the carrier frequency
You gotta watch out when you overspeed a motor on a VFD centrifugal force can destroy the rotor.
Though I do think you should read your VFD manual and see if it has a analog input from a 10K potentiometer or something.
The control system on those is shit, I think you would be happier if you got a beefy HELIPOT or something (probobly 10k you wire in with a shielded 3 wire cable). You could put it in a nice box to have a analog control of the VFD. Position the box at the best place and just use the VFD as a display.
www.amazon.com/Siemens-52MA3B14-Potentiometer-Operator-kiloohms/dp/B008SHV9EI
Just read the spec for the VFD to see what kind of analog control it accepts and find a nice potentiometer you like with the correct value, you can even make your own knob for it.
MR PETE ; TOO MUCH COMPLICATION ; JUST USE A TWO SPEED MOTOR WITH STEP PULLY AND IT TAKES CARE ON 99% OF MY WORK IN LAST 50 YEARS, MOVE ON AND GETER DONE !!! CARL