Re-numbering, detailing & weathering a loco
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- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
- Re-numbering, detailing & weathering a loco
I been wanting to do this for quite a while, but never had time. The aim is to recreate 25322 Tamworth castle into its preserved condition, although it’s in a bit of a state.
In this video:
• I demonstrate how I remove a running number and apply a new, homemade decal.
• I demonstrate how to remove the bogie frame to weather the wheels.
• I demonstrate how I weather the bogies and chassis.
• I demonstrate how to do a faded effect.
• I explain work undertaken off-cam (to save on screen time).
• I explain work still to be done.
Due to copyright issues I cannot show images of the real locomotive, but you are free to view them via your favourite search engine.
BASICS SERIES
If there is something you would like me to demonstrate please get in touch, I’ll see what can be done.
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Looks fantastic John, it's the vision to work colours in knowing what it's going to look like when you're finished. Its good to see you have the finish and look you want. Take care Eddy xx
Hi Eddie, I come across it all the time in school, where many are afraid of getting it wrong. The beauty of acrylics, and oils to a slightly lesser degree, is that they will wipe off with a tiny bit of IPA. If you want to weather locos there are many channels that do it, but Richard from Everard Jcn recently did a new Bachmann 47, but has many weathering / respraying projects on his channel and Tim from The Scrapline has 2-3 locos, coaches and wagons. Both worth a watch.
Hi John. The 25 came really nice and such a nice midel in general. I like the way you show your audience techniques of painting without an airbrush. The headcode looks brilliant. Really nice work John. Take care as always. Lee
Thanks Lee, airbrushes are great and I do use mine from time to time. Doing things with a brush does focus the mind onto what is necessary, ie looking carefully at the real thing and replicating it. The 25 is now complete, have decided not to do a video on the roof bit, but will show it in an upcoming video
Looks good John, not over done like some locos I have seen on You Tube channels 👍
Hi Vinny, its not finished yet and the roof needs doing. If you search for pics of the real thing youll see what I mean. It will get more rusty, but I want it subtle and still portray what it’s actually like.
Hi John good job just the right amount of weathering top man cheers Al
Although it will be subtle it’s not finished yet.
Hi John, great work on the 25, love the headcode boxes. Susannah
Thank you, very easy to do with the printer
Awesome 'how to" Jonn!!! Thanks for sharing this video. Cheers Onno.
Hey John, that ‘stressing’ on the blue body side was impressive. Now where’s my cotton buds……..
Ha ha ha, thank you. Ive just finished all the rusting effects just now, just got to varnish it
Looking good mate, very nice 👍
Great video, also great timing, I was just looking for renumbering videos
Thank you, glad to be of help.
Just go careful, keep an eye on background colour, dont want to go through that.
@@piccadillymodelrailways Ok, thank you
Excellent work John and the head codes work well . I like the level of weathering and the fading . Did you weather the front with a brown wash ?
Looking forward to the next video.
Cheers Kev
Hi Kev, thank you. The front was a very watery wash used for streaking. Very faint till you look closely.
I might not put out the second video, as this has done very badly. The loco is finished now so I’ll still show it but perhaps not in its own video.
It’s funny how well videos do I really enjoyed it as it’s something I want to do with my locos .
Cheers Kev
As you say the head codes look fine as they are, your printer has done a good job. I was wondering, as my printer is a bit naff, if a matched double layer of paper would cut down on light bleed - not something I've tried as yet!
Hi Steve, although my printer is still relatively new it is a very basic model, I just put it on best print. I only used 80g basic photocopy paper and no ink bleed at all. Ofc the end result depends on how bright the headcode LEDs are, but you could go over the back of the print with a black pen against a light box or even on a window. Give it a go, nothing to loose. Please let me know how you get on