Fix a Hotend Clog On Ender 3 S1 Pro
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- Опубликовано: 4 ноя 2024
- If you've found yourself with a hot end clog on your Ender 3 S1 Pro then you'll know it's not an obvious fix.
In this video I'll give you a quick step-by-step method to get your clog cleaned out and your 3d printer up and running again.
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You are a gifted teacher! You don’t waste the viewers time with cutesy intros and comments. You remain clear and on-point with your tutorials. Exactly what I was looking for. THANK YOU SIR! I’m a subscriber for life!
I agree.
Not the first time you've saved me a headache. Cheers. I say that before I have removed my clog, and it is the S1 Plus, so I believe not quite the same assembly, but very close. Guess there's only 1 way to find out.
This is exactly what I needed. Spent an hour searching but was able to fix my problem 10 minutes after watching this video.
Thank you!
I was so stressed trying to finish a project in time for a birthday party and this video was the fix I needed! No BS, straight to the point. Works for Ender 3 S1 standard as well!
Your tutorial Helped me so much that the other ones couldn't. You made it so simple that even me a 12 year old owner of a printer could save myself
I seen the other videos that look so complicated... i was dreading it. Then I found your channel again this has instilled hope and desire again to tackle this issue.
By far the best Sprite un-clog video I've been able to find. Thank you!
Holy hell, this was fantastic. I'd been struggling with a clog for hours today, and I was NOT looking forward to disassembling the entire hot end assembly. This, with literally just the tools I had on my desk already, worked perfectly, in under 15 minutes. Phenomenal.
Ricky... your video is a 10 of 10... so simple, easy and fast method!
Thank you so much for this video. I was getting very frustrated trying to find a video specific to the E3S1 Pro. I really enjoy your videos. They are easy to follow and understand. Thank you for making them for those of us who aren’t highly technical. 😀😀😀
Really glad they help Scott. Thanks for the comment 👍
This is a great tip, and saved me lots of time, thanks!
I like the idea of keeping it plugged in, but in my case, I removed the head completely. Then, while seated at a table, I pointed a heat gun at the throat until the hex wrench popped the plug out. This was easier since my printer is just a foot from the floor, but this tip keeps me from fearing clogs as much!
I have done that a couple of times and here is what I want to say.
* There is in general no need to remove the nozzle, unless you believe it is time to clean up things inside (in that case you will use a gas torch to burn everything inside up.
* The cold end contains a short PET pipe and it can be easily fall when you remove the hotend. Make sure you put it back when installing the hotend. Also it it not going out, check that there are no filament stuck there.
* The fitting depth of the hotend is important - when you put the hotend back to the hole in the cold end, it is not suppose to push fully into the hole, otherwise you will find the correct Z-offset will be out of range (-5mm I think).
* The other reason that the hotend shouldn't be fitted too deep is for cooling. That fitting is the only contact between the hotend and the coldend, so the smaller the area, the less heat will be transferring, reducing the risk of filament soften that cause clogs.
* However, the depth of fitting controls the gap between the PET pipe and the hotend, so if the hotend was fitted too low the risk of clogs caused by the gap will increase.
* In all cases, do a manual bed leveling after the process, to find out the correct z-offset since it will change.
THANK YOU!! I started watching one of the other videos, thought their must be a better way, and found your vid! Perfect!
This fix is much faster and easier than other videos I saw.
OMG thank you for such a great easy and short video on how to remove clogs issue! Perfectly functional now and great tip on the needle end part 😂
Ricky you are a gentlemen and a scholar. Just upgraded to the sprite hotend, so having this information in my back pocket will come in very handy when that inevitable clog comes my way.
Exactly the problem I had and exactly the solution I needed. Thanks for the thoughtful and helpful video, Ricky. You have a new loyal subscriber
Really glad it helped you. Thanks for the comment 👍
Honestly, this video and tutorial just saved me lots of time. I saw other videos where the people have decided to take apart the extruder etc... I did this in about 15m taking my time. Thanks a lot for this video. Edd
Really glad it helped. Yes, some people have made it a much bigger job than it needs to be.
Thank you. I first saw the other video you referred to here. So glad I kept looking and found this. Took away a lot of anxiety before starting. I would just add, you don't need to unmount it and mount it while it is heated. You can heat it after you place it on the build plate and let it cool before you remount it.
Thank you so much! I tried out some fillament from temu and it clogged my printer! You video guided me through the whole process. Thank you, you are an awesome teacher!
Ricky, you just saved 2 hours of my life and a ton of frustration - I know, because I already cleaned the nozzle twice the hard way by disassembling it completely. Just for the record, the same method from the video can be applied on Ender3 S2 as well - it is having the same hot end construction.
Thanks for letting me know, glad the video helped 👍
Todella iso kiitos tästä ohjeesta. Olin raatanut jo tunteja tulostimen ja tukoksen kanssa. Sitten löysin videosi ja sain putsattua tulostimen kymmenessä minuutissa. Kiitos ja niiaus!!! ❤ Kanava meni tilaukseen ja seurantaan 😊
Watched your video, did the job as you suggested and working absolutely perfectly within 5-10 mins. Thank you
Thank you very much! First time and I couldn't figure out what happened; until I realized the filament spool had a crack in the side and caught the filament in it. I could hear the machine "grunting" but could see that everything looked normal. I even placed my hand on individual pieces trying to understand where the rhythmic grunting was coming from. Even when I realized it was the extruder, I STILL didn't know to look for a stalled filament line. Nothing on the machine to alarm when this happens either. Well, learn every day!
you are a lifesaver i just installed my sprite pro kit on my ender 3 v2 and it already clogged i followed the tutorial and its working again.
Thank. Great videos. Just had to remove a 1.5mm piece of PLA. Unfortunately, just below the gears, between the 2 "arrows". So I had to take the whole thing apart. FYI: (for you and channel viewers) Had trouble getting the "gear" part back together. Had to tighten spring down more, to get the halves together. and then unscrew it again, after (to where is was, which was very loose. about 7 turns) Also noticed both my hot end screws were very loose. Didn't do it "hot", unplugged cord. Worked fine. AND just did a Z step calibration, too.
Thanks a lot, I’m going to be doing this exact thing after breakfast! Straight to the point with no fluff. A PERFECT “how to” video.
Hope it went well and you are back up and running.
@@RickyImpey Yes it did, worked exactly as you described. Thanks again!
Thanks very much for this, after whatching a couple of other tutorials i was a bit daunted about dismantling the entire extruder.
In a case of I did this, so you don't have to... Make sure during re-assembly that you haven't twisted the cable to your print head. Great tutorial, helped me out of what I thought was a proper nightmare.
than you so much I had been spending the past 2 hours trying to push this small piece of plastic through and it didnt budge, was following tutorials on those with PFTE pipe..... so glad I got this fiqured out I just got my 3D printer 2 days ago
Thank you for your great videos! Short, but very precise and accurate! Thank you so much for your work!
On the second day i have the same problem and this is the best and very well explained solution. Thank you so much!🥳👍👍
You're welcome!
honestly, this actually did seem so much easier and less time consuming than most made it out to be yeah.
thanks for making this video, i don't own a printer yet as i figured i might as well wait and see if they release an s1 series for the ender 5, even so tho, if i end up buying the ender 3 s1 plus or the ender 5 s1 plus (really hoping it will exist) this will be of great use :)
Looks like an ender 5 s1 is in the works! 😀
To be fair to those "other videos," sometimes you do get clogs inside the gears and you *do* have to do all that.
Having said that, I had a clog in mine that your method worked on, so it saved me a lot of time, lol. I still have another jammed up Sprite Pro extruder that I could never clear, even after taking it completely apart.
Unfortunately I needed this one today on my S1 Pro after 5 months of ownership and almost non-stop printing. 5 minutes is a slight exaggeration. Comfortably 15-20 minutes if your hot end screws are filled with material… even if you have a silicon sock. Thank you for your videos. I continually find myself referring to them. I’m pretty sure the reason i got a clog was due to too low of a z-offset which built up pressure. Sure enough the clog was exactly as shown in your video too.
(some time later) thanks once again - still the best and clearest helpfile out there
Really appreciate your videos, especially the bed levelling for the S1 Pro, it's never printed better since following your guide. I tried this to clear a blockage in the extruder, but unfortunately the jam was in the extruder section before the hot end, so it needed a complete disassembly. If you fancy tackling that, I'd love to see your video on that! Thanks gain Ricky.
Have you fixed it? I did see another RUclips video where someone showed the whole hotend coming apart. I can find it again if you need it to get up and running.
@@RickyImpey I have, The Edge of Tech have a tutorial of the process, it took a while but all went well and it's back printing as well as ever (ruclips.net/video/0goTwwAVb58/видео.html). Thanks!
Very helpful. This is my first 3d printer and of course it clogged within 10 prints of coming out of the box. I'd been dablling with the extruder to work out which parts to remove and clean and to know how the entire extruder was completely clear of material. Thank you!
Yes, mine did it early on during a slow filament change so I had to figure it out. Glad it helped 👍
Thank you, this was quick and straightforward!
Well done with this video! Informative and concise. You're my go-to for any necessary troubleshooting on my Ender printers.
Great to hear!
Thank you, my clog was a bit worse but this kept it simple and easy.
Thank you so much for writing this! I just setup my printer and it came clogged 🙄 fortunately it was a simple fix but seriously a pain in the ass
Ah man, that's bad. Glad you have it sorted now👍
Bro thank you so much it was so well instructed and took so little time
Another great video! Many thanks Ricky, your videos have solved so much frustration to me as a 3D printing noob
Very clear and straightforward video, bravo!
The one thing one could add at the end of the video though is you should probably redo calibration and autoleveling mesh :)
I use heat transfer paste between Hotend and heatsink and had no glogging issue again since then as I found the original setup to be underperforming on those topics
Yes, that's a good idea👍
do you mean between the nozzle and the heater block?
Making the heater block thermally conductive to the heatsink is exactly what you shouldn't do. The whole point of the heatbreak is to slow down (stop ideally) the flow of heat from the heater block to the heat sink.
@@yeroca no, as yoh say that would be a bad idea. the paste is on the metal tube entering the heatsink. what I found is that removing the heater block from the heatsink, the metal tube entering the heatsink has some play and is therefore not properly transfering the cold to the tube causing a small thermal transfer blockage. with the paste that problem is cheaply solved. Adding another heatsink fan is helping additionly, especially for printing in enclsoures
@@yeroca I believe they mean between the heatbreak and the heatsink so that any heat in the upper part of the heatbreak is better conducted to the heatsink fins. This way the upper part of the heartbreak is kept as cool as possible. I have done this myself on another all metal hotend and it works well.
This works great to clean clog. Put it back together and in a couple of hours do it again, 2 hours later do it again, repeat every 2 hours. The clogging issue once it starts will continue. The one thing I've found is to use heat conductive grease when reassembling. Good Luck
Brilliant video. Clear and everything I needed to know.
As always, great video Rickey. I have had similar problems and this solved my issue. Looking forward to the next tutorial! Just bought you a coffee!
Thanks Nigel👍
So easy, thanks you and thanks for the short and direct how to video. 🍻
Thank you so much!!! Got right to the point and explained it well. I really appreciate this video.
Easy, short, concise and you left out the BS "cutesy stuff" that wastes alot of time in other UToob videos...... btw, you are not securing the heating block with a crescent wrench before twearking the nozzle off (lol )... aren't you concerned about twisting off the brass, etc heat break inside the block ?
Anyhow, nice video. I am reviewing maintenance stuff for my new Ender 3 S1 Pro and if this ever happens I will consult your video.😎
Hi, you are right, I should have shown holding the heat block still when undoing the nozzle. I had probably just nipped it up for filming and forgot. Glad you liked it otherwise👍
Thanks for the video. I have an issue with clogging and maybe you might help me. I have an Ender 3 S1 and it doesn't have problem printing (I am printing mainly PLA). Problem is that every time I try to change the filament it seems to be stuck. I end up needing to push toward the hot end for a couple of seconds to have it heat up before pulling it back and then it managed to get out. I noticed every time it happens I have some kind of a blob at the tip of the filament (probably the reason it got clogged to begin with). This problem have only started recently, but it is a consistent one. Would appreciate the help!
This is very helpful! Would the same process be followed for the Ender 3 V3 KE?
thank you, it worked like a charm !!!
Great video. I watched that other RUclips video that you showed a clip from and it was horribly and unnecessarily complicated
Very helpful, thank you!
Good explanation…no BS. Cheers
Thank You soo much... worked like a charm.
So I keep coming back to your channel. Now there is one thing I am still missing and that is how to get my fdm printer dialed in. ( ender 3 v2 ) so basicly step by step after getting the bed level perfect of doing certain test prints and getting from a stringy not nice looking print to a propper print.
Thank you so much this helped immensely
Thank you so much Ricky
Brilliant. Thank you 🙏
have had this clog a few times - my first attempt for clearing is heat up to filament temp - remove nozzle, then i try the nozzle cleaner from the top using the coiled end of the cleaner. i have been able to push clog out the bottom that way. those wires are so thin on that thermistor that once i did follow this vid and needed to replace thermistor afterwards.
This is so helpful. But does this work the the regular Ender 3 S1? I don’t have the pro haha
I’m new to printing so I’m not sure what kind of differences they have/how much it matters
Very helpful, thank you
2:41 thanks! Should the large end be able to go through? I can not see it in the video?
1. why do you have to remove the nozzle exactly? 2. Is pushing smaller clogs through this machine with a thing wire cane possible like on a duplicator six?
Fantastic video! Where can you get replacement ptfe tube for the extruder?
Any PTFE tube with an inside diameter of 2mm and an outside diameter of 4mm will work, you will just need to cut it to length yourself.
I love your content because it gives me all the confidence, until my pliers slip and i short the heat block. Thankful for amazons return policy today lmao
Ah😬
talk about trial by fire (sweats in gratitude)
Followed all your steps succesfully, but the part of PTFE came out aswell. Put everything back together and the extruder still seems ‘clogged’. Could this mean a problem with my direct drive gears?
Took out a bunch of filament there but still clogged. I think it is where the gears are. You have a video for that?
great video! have the same printer with issues. begin to print, creates the initial line and circle then gums up at the nozzle. cleaned nozzle thoroughly, still persist.
Hi, usually a clogged nozzle is simply caused by too low a temperature. What filament are you using and what printing temperature? Have you tried bumping it up a little? Another thing that can cause the temperature to drop too low can be a bad PID tune giving too much temperature fluctuation. At the lower end, this can cause a clog.
So I have been having an issue. The set screw that you loosen by the circuit board keeps coming loose and I have since lost it. Any idea what size that is (I think it's M3x3?)? Also, mine will print fine for about 10-15 layers and then the extruder starts clicking and giving me fits. Any ideas? Same machine here running Elegoo PLA filament at 215 degrees
Hi there. My problem isn't in the parts you are describing... but in the philament entery. It seems the mecanism don't feed the pla. I can't put the philament though the hole
Thank you, this quickly helped me out! And it wasnt as complicated as I thought! I only had to redefignd the z offsett after changing to anotzer Nozzle Type, but thats a different story ;) And I keep having the problem, that some of the filament seem to come trough around the nozzle, because it always gets dirtty pver time and sometimes has a this PLA cover on it. Do you have any suggestions how to fix that?
Hi, the first thing I would do is work out where the filament is coming from. If it's leaking through the threads on the nozzle then either your heatblock or nozzle may be damaged and may need replacing. Make sure that the nozzle is not fully home against the heatblock face and you can see a thread or two when tight. This shows that the back of the nozzle is touching the heatbreak/throat which should seal them together and prevent filament leaking. If the heatblock has turned on the heatbreak at all, this may be your problem. Alternatively, you may be seeing filament that has been pushed back up after coming out of the end of the nozzle. Like I say, try to work out which before changing anything.
@@RickyImpey Thanks! I will do my best!
Thanks for the video but the clog is on the PTFE up the extruder. Can you help me?
March 14 at 10 AM, 2023. I have the S1 pro and I’m getting a picture message on the display of a hand holding a needle and a nozzle picture. and all it says is yes or no. ??? Not sure what you do from here, but I can’t get it to clear or start the printer. I even flashed the motherboard and the controller. And the picture of a hand with a needle and a nozzle. And under it all it says is yes or no. Thank you.
Any suggestions how to get the melted blob of filament off if it is covering the thermistor wires?
Hey! I really need help. I followed this video once to unjam my Ender 3 S1 Plus extruder. But when I reassembled it I must have goofed because after one print it became jammed again. But NOW when I try to remove the heat block ( 2:22 in the video) with pliers it doesn’t come off. It turns but doesn’t come loose.
Ideas?
Hi, If it's turning but not coming out then it's probably the clogged filament holding it from coming out. Did you have everything hot while trying to pull it free? It is possible to disassemble the whole extruder assembly to get to the section above. If you can't get the heatbreak out with the hot end hot then you may have to take more apart unfortunately.
@@RickyImpey Yes I had it at 230 degrees hot.
Looks like I’ll have to disassemble it. Maybe I could follow one of those “more complicated” videos you mentioned at the beginning?
Also, I have the stock Ender 3 S1 Plus extruder. The Plus has a slightly different part than the Pro. Do you think it would make sense to upgrade my heat brake to all metal? I was thinking of trying to follow this video for that
ruclips.net/video/j96WqHwT0p8/видео.html
The plus is just different enough from the pro to make looking for specific advice to be frustrating.
@@riddlesphinxx There aren't really any disadvantages of running the 'all-metal' heatbreak in the Plus to basically make it the same as the S1 Pro (other than the cost of buying it). It's a neat setup and there is still a section of PTFE that runs up to the extruder to help avoid clogs. You won't be able to take full advantage of the extra temperature capabilities without modding the firmware though. On the Pro you can go to 300 degrees but you'll be limited to 260 on the Plus without firmware changes.
This video shows how the sprite extruder and hot end assembly comes apart if it helps ruclips.net/video/0goTwwAVb58/видео.html
@@RickyImpey You're actually the best, thank you. I will follow this video and might come back if I have more issues :) thank you
Thanks you so much for this. I did all this but the blockage is in the white tube (which came out). can i just cut another peice of tube and reinsert it?
LOL nevermind, I fixed it!
Sorry, I took too long to reply. As you now now, yes you can🙂. Glad you got it sorted.
Hello, I need help please. The heat block 2 screws cannot be removed no matter what I try , the screws are damaged so the L key cannt hold on them.. what should I do ?
Great video. I just got a filament clog so good timing :)
However 1 think I'll tell people to be careful of, because I just fricking did it! :( Be careful unscrewing the nozzle. I have never touched my nozzle since buying the printer (only a couple weeks old), and it wouldn't budge. I've only printed with PLA, so I upped the temp to 230 and tried again still wouldn't move. So I turned it off, let it cool down and tried, but still no good.
Figured I'd try again with the printer on at 200 degrees to be safe. Turned, turned a bit harder, little harder still, and then both those long screws BENT. Nozzle head didn't even move. So now I got 2 bent screws (the looks like an S) and a stuck nozzle. I did however dissasemble the rest with the nozzle on and clear the filament blockage. Ill hold the block with vice grips and try remove the nozzle that way. So sick of all the problems i'm having
I googled for the s1 pro hot end screws but can't find anything. I measured mine and they are 18mm. Are these m2x18mm socket head screws?
I unstuck my nozzle, was really damn tight. Cleaned it all and assembled. Thought I'd do a bed level print and see how far it came out of alignment. BAD idea. I started the print, it did its warm up stuff so I turned my back to clean up some things. I hear what I think is my kid pushing furniture on the floor and turn to see the printer scraping the nozzle head right into the build plate :( "Luckily" it was only doing that filament test/clean line on the side before I caught and stopped it. So now I got a long indent on my build plate today too!
Thanks for this
Thank you. That tip is HOT. Don't ask how I know. 😂
I just got my printer. Is this a common thing? How often do we have to clean a clog?
Hi, you may never get one but if you do, you will know about it. It happens when melted filament gets somewhere you don't want it and then cools, jamming things up.
Hello. Could you tell me the dimensions of the fixing screws of the “Platform Handle”?
¡Gracias!
Thanks, you saved my wookiee woggles!
Thank You!!!
Thanks.
how big is that nozzle tool? is it the 6mm to 6mm one from your link?
I use a 6mm tool on the Ender 3 S1 Pro, yes.
So the printer is still turned on while being fixed? Is there an electrical hazard? Does stringy filament indicate a clog?
After I took the nozzle off, I noticed there was pva clogged inside the nozzle part. How can that be cleaned out? A d now I see that it would be impossible for the filament to push through that tiny opening..I have seen the experts in Ender videos who say "just push the filament all the way through the nozzle and their filament does go through.. but they must have a wider hole in their nib part or thinner pva to begin,with. These machines are too finicky for anyone but folks who have huge amounts of time for fixing.
Hi, do you mean PVA or PLA? Both can be used in a 3d printer but it's much more likely that you have PLA. If it's PLA then heat is what you need to clear it. The only way you will be able to push filament through is if you nozzle temperature is higher than the melting point of the filament you are using.
Thank you.
Yep they're right its gonna be that hard this is if ya have a simple clog
Does anyone know if that heat brake is supposed to be slanted at all? Mine is and I've also been getting leakages of crud out the sided of my hot end
It should be straight. Sounds like you may have a damaged part.
@@RickyImpey I can't imagine how that would happen, I suspected as much and ordered an new one yesterday. Thanks
For me I have a problem with my connection, anytime I put my bare hand or any metal in contact I get electrocuted, I was looking for a solution that doesn't require touch while switched on but i guess there's no option.
you saved me...and an assistance cost of 140euro
Just did this as the clog came out with the nozzle. 🎉