I have had the need to use one of these a few years ago after the dreaded nipple shear 🤦..was ok ..one trick I also found regarding a suspected frozen nipple 😩 is to use a small snug fitting drill bit, inserting the smooth end, into the top end of the bleed nipple as far in as you can, a little clean out if needed.. apparently it helps avoid the nipple crushing into the hollow centre when pressure is applied 👍✌️
The other step I do after pushing the pistons back in is undo the calliper and position the valve upper most so the air bleeds to the top and let gravity do the work.
I don't get how these work. How does the brake line attach? Or does this replace another banjo bolt on the caliper? How about a diagram showing it in use?
Thanks for the tip, i have an old 80's 600 sports bike that's an import and getting a new calliper is hard so this will keep it going so i don't have to rush finding a replacement
DELBOYS HELLO! WISH TO SAY THAT WHAT YOU ARE TURNIING THE HAYABUSA FROM A BLACK SWAN (IN MY EYES MY THINK),TO A BEATIFUL STUD WAR HORSE!!!! IT LOOKS SO GOOD AND SEEM THAT THE BIKE SHOULD BE BUILT THAT WAY... THE WHOLE WORK IS PURE MASTER PIECE,LOVELY AND HAPPY!! REGARDS. YHANK YOU AND GOOD BYE,SHALOM.
Hey Del. Nice piece of hardware and bleeding technique. I do have the question......What did you do about the broken off bleeder? Sorry if I missed that.
Hey Joe.. In the few cases i've actually managed to successfully drill the bleed valve open a little and get an easy out tool in there to bight it, it was a fairly new bleeder and not badly corroded in... but if they are properly corroded in place, its near on impossible to drill out the hole for a thread repair insert, and even then the taper in the bottom will be compromised, So to be honest, if its sealed and not leaking.. i just leave it alone, and fit a Banjo bleeder. not ideal, and maybe not very professional, but in the face of a replacement caliper, maybe even an older bike you just cant get them for any more.. then its an effective last resort rescue. !
@@joepie221 Thanks Joe, yeah, it ends up a case of damage limitation, i guess if you wanted to make a tidy job of it, then you could fill the hole with some Belzona, file it smooth, and repaint over the casting, but once again, Only if its totally sealed.. Have a great weekend sir, and thank you for your support... Del.
Thanks mate, we'll try, Storm Dennis here (why do they give them comedy names?!), blowing a gale outside and the lights flickering, oh joy... roll on summer! Have a great sunny weekend, ride safe, D&Px
My bleeder valve broke off in half upon tightening it on the very last turn/rotation. I finished the brake job and it's the old caliper that I left on there. It's not leaking because the valve is closed (albeit broken in half). My question is, should i extract the valve and replace with a new one (assuming they sell them separately) or leave as-is and just replace the entire caliper the next time I service the brakes??
I've broken a bleed valve off in the past and because there's a hole in them, right down the centre, I was able to easily remove it with an 'easyout' and a little heat and I would do it now, rather than later on when you need them and it becomes an off the road job as if they really are jammed and you snap the easyout, you'll need a new caliper, but you've got plenty of time to get one at the moment.
You should have told me about this a couple weeks ago Del. I got my broken valve out OK but took a chunk out of the taper at the bottom of valve seat 😕 so had to get a second hand replacement caliper. Got all the system rebuild now and bleed. Seems to be all a ok. Test ride next.
Sorry mate.. but it was your request and a fair few others that prompted the video, so thanks for the nudge mate. . Glad you got it sussed out. Ride safe aye, and enjoy the weekend.! D&Px
@@Moonfleet41 Ha ha, that's ok, I'll let you off 😊 I did wonder whether the comment I made before made you think about doin this vid. Did use your tip about filling the pipes. worked a treat. 🖒
I didn't know these could be got..but emm, what happens to the broken valve in the caliper? there's a channel in it so it'll presumably leak, still has to be butchered out?
If a bleed valve has snapped off and refused to move, it snaps off in a closed position, so it won't leak, but if it does, that means it's not completely seized and you could quite probably get it out!
I have just machined the two front callipers of my sons Yamaha rd 350 and fitted two of your bleed nipple inserts. My question is why is there a small O ring inside the nipple. Thank you. Regards Colin Vaughan.
would be nice for a demo video, I have no idea where to put that, is it to be installed where the bleeder valve is? or it will replace the existing banjo bolt? if its going to replace the existing banjo bolt, what to use to plug the leaking bleeder valve, I don't see a matching plug bolt/screw on the product link, I need this right now, kindly assist, thanks.
If your existing bleed valve is leaking, then just replace it with a new one... even seal it if you have to with some plumbers tape... but yes, this product fits in to the banjo bolt hole and replaces it, then you just bleed out through the banjo bolt!
Probably being a bit thick but where does this screw into? I have the snapped off bleed nipple on a very expensive and no longer available AMG caliper. Mike
imbadwrench another Binky fan! I’d actually seen / bought some these before both videos and as usual when I came to install the thread was wrong be careful when ordering guys not all threads are the same (and I did order based on make and model of bike) but I’m sure I’ll use them one day on another bike.
There will be only a limited number of thread / pitch combinations, car's or bikes, so why not just measure the 3 dimensions and call them on the phone, see if a 'bike' one has the same spec !
Hi Delby I love your content. While on the subject of brake calipers, will aluminium washers perform on par, worse, or better than copper washers? Pros and cons of them? Thank you
I would use copper washers on brakes. It is true that soft aluminium washers seal things like oil drain plugs very well, but i have never seen them used in braking systems from the factory, so just go with copper to be sure.
Hello Del ! Tanks’s for charing these useful tips . May i ask you if you made à video on the chain tensioner for a Triumph T300? I want to do it by myself, but i just bought these bike and y don’t no these brand enough. Thank ´ again
But my issue here is my bike which is benelli uses brake banjo union and i have ripped the bleeder screw in half its stuck in the banjo how do i remove it and where can i buy the same size bleeder. And also how to know which size would fit 1 mm or 1.25 one Thank you.
Just saw your other video on how to bleed the front and rear brakes. I did this and everything worked out perfectly fine, except for one of the bleeder screws (rear brake) that will not seal properly (I noticed it after checking on it over night). You mention in the other video that it is very important that there is no dirt coming in between the screw and the "socket"/thread. How do I go about cleaning the bleeder screw/socket/thread without messing it all up and getting air into the system? Is this at all possible or do I have to just accept the fact and unscrew it all together and redoing/filling the system with new brake fluid after cleaning the screw/socket/thread? Great content and videos - Cheers from Sweden!!
Hi there, if by screw/socket/thread you mean the hole that the bleed valve goes in, then don't overthink it mate, it won't mean you have to drain the whole system down or anything... if you have an airline just remove the bleed valve completely, blow out the hole with a cloth covering it to catch any fluid spry, then put the bleed valve back in, and just bleed that brake up again... not much will come out if you don't move the lever, and it'll soon bleed up... take a close look at the seat inside and the end of the bleed valve itself, see if it's corroded, or maybe just replace with a new one to be sure... good luck!
Delboy's Garage -- Hello and thank you for the quick and very comprehensive answer! My inquiry was exactly how you interpreted it. I will do as you suggest and hopefully it will seal completely after cleaning/checking it. I have never done maintenance myself on the bike since it still had warranty (hence always done it at the dealer) but now that the warranty is no longer I prefer to do what I can myself. I was just unsure if when unscrewing the bleed valve completely and taking it out to clean/check it the fluid would rush out/be sucked in creating a mess/air issue. Once again thank you for the very comprehensive explanation and keep up the great work!!
Short udate - I checked and cleaned the bleed valve and the hole it goes in to. All looked brand new and clean. I put it back together and still a leak... I will get a new bleed valve (the leak is right in the joint where it meets the caliper). IF after exchanging the bleed valve the same problem continues - could it be that the caliper itself has been damaged, cracked, by tightening the bleed valve too hard during earlier services maybe? I have a slight recollection that you mention this can be the case in one of your videos...? The rear brake is the same one as on a BMW F800 GS (www.rubbersideup.com/2014-bmw-f800gs-f800-brembo-rear-brake-caliper-34-21-7-717-627).
So at the risk of sounding like an idiot, this would install at the entry point for the brake line into the caliper with a banjo fitting that seals against the face of the caliper with the crush washers? I have a 75 Commando Mk3 with the hard line at the fork. There are something like 4 segments to the Mk3 brake system, so I've removed most of them for flex line already. Wouldn't kill me to put a new piece in. Both of my bleed screws are seized and one snapped off at some point. Would rather just leave them in place. Really would like to change for a modern caliper, but most of the kits to do so are for pre 75 Commandos. Ugh. Thanks in advance!
I have no idea what you are showing us to do. I'll watch again but after watching the first time I learned there is a bleeder valve you screw in somewhere. That is it. Where how do you do it.
My nipple on the oberon slave clutch Kawasaki Clutch Slave Cylinder CLU-2775 Is giving huge problems it’s gone rounded Can’t get a spanner on it advice please
Well they look in good nick, I imagine a smooth flush , I did manage a 3 hole oil change......2nd derby cover I came across that needed the cover screws hammer impacted off........monkeys! Dare I say gorillas,lol
oh how I pray to almighty god I don't have to do this when I try and flush my 2012 switch back....soaking the bleed screws with a pb blaster or wd-40 the night before.....??
Don't sweat it buddy, they'll come undone just fine on a 2012 bike, you could take the step of soaking in some penetrating oil, but if they physically look clean and uncorroded, then that's what they'll be, and they should come undone easily... it's when they look nasty and rusted and all cruddy, that's when you're likely to snap them off because they'll be weak.
Hi Del, just found you by accident and binge watched you and subscribed 👍. Live in Germany, do you still collect number plates, and have you got one from Germany?
how the hell do you use them??
I would have appreciated a demo.
Man you saved me a fortune. I didn’t know they existed. Life saver man. Thank you. Keep up the great work and videos.
Handy aye ? Glad I could help.
I have had the need to use one of these a few years ago after the dreaded nipple shear 🤦..was ok ..one trick I also found regarding a suspected frozen nipple 😩 is to use a small snug fitting drill bit, inserting the smooth end, into the top end of the bleed nipple as far in as you can, a little clean out if needed.. apparently it helps avoid the nipple crushing into the hollow centre when pressure is applied 👍✌️
It sads me that RUclips only allows for like and dislike options because I truly LOVE your videos Delboy. Keep em coming Sir
Thank you, I will, really appreciate that and thank you so much for your support!
The other step I do after pushing the pistons back in is undo the calliper and position the valve upper most so the air bleeds to the top and let gravity do the work.
quite clever...
Hey Del.... AWESOME tip, sir !! "Thank you" for sharing your knowledge ....
Your delivery is spot on!....
Another excellent informative video. Fortunately not of mine were seized when I recently stripped my 1986 gsxr calipers for painting and rebuilding.
Great replacement part wonderful
AWESOME video, Thanks for sharing this with us, Bless 😇
Handy tip as always. But let’s get back on the bussa build fella, keen to see where this is going.... 👍
Used them for years, However they are designed for the master cylinder, Usually at the highest point of the brake circuit to let air/fluid out.
I don't get how these work. How does the brake line attach? Or does this replace another banjo bolt on the caliper? How about a diagram showing it in use?
Thank you, just saved me so much trouble.
very interesting, gotta check those out, thank you sir for another sweet vid
Spot on mate, have a great weekend, 👍👍🏍️
Top tip 👍🏻 Look forward to the next vid 😀
Thanks for the tip, i have an old 80's 600 sports bike that's an import and getting a new calliper is hard so this will keep it going so i don't have to rush finding a replacement
Glad it helped mate..
Another great tip - thanks for sharing Del! :0)
DELBOYS HELLO!
WISH TO SAY THAT WHAT YOU ARE TURNIING THE HAYABUSA FROM A BLACK SWAN
(IN MY EYES MY THINK),TO A BEATIFUL STUD WAR HORSE!!!!
IT LOOKS SO GOOD AND SEEM THAT THE BIKE SHOULD BE BUILT THAT WAY...
THE WHOLE WORK IS PURE MASTER PIECE,LOVELY AND HAPPY!!
REGARDS.
YHANK YOU AND GOOD BYE,SHALOM.
Hey Del. Nice piece of hardware and bleeding technique. I do have the question......What did you do about the broken off bleeder? Sorry if I missed that.
Hey Joe.. In the few cases i've actually managed to successfully drill the bleed valve open a little and get an easy out tool in there to bight it, it was a fairly new bleeder and not badly corroded in... but if they are properly corroded in place, its near on impossible to drill out the hole for a thread repair insert, and even then the taper in the bottom will be compromised, So to be honest, if its sealed and not leaking.. i just leave it alone, and fit a Banjo bleeder. not ideal, and maybe not very professional, but in the face of a replacement caliper, maybe even an older bike you just cant get them for any more.. then its an effective last resort rescue. !
@@Moonfleet41 I completely overlooked the fact that if it breaks off, its still sealed. My bad. Thanks for reply Del. I always enjoy your videos.
@@joepie221 Thanks Joe, yeah, it ends up a case of damage limitation, i guess if you wanted to make a tidy job of it, then you could fill the hole with some Belzona, file it smooth, and repaint over the casting, but once again, Only if its totally sealed.. Have a great weekend sir, and thank you for your support... Del.
Nice get out of jail trick Del. Penny and you have a great weekend and stay dry and warm mate. Cheers
Thanks mate, we'll try, Storm Dennis here (why do they give them comedy names?!), blowing a gale outside and the lights flickering, oh joy... roll on summer! Have a great sunny weekend, ride safe, D&Px
This works for a car too? Or is there something fundamentally different between bike calipers and car ones (or the plumbing)?
Brilliant! I will add to my kit, and hopefully not need them LOL. Thanks
Thats the point i guess, a great rescue option that we hope we'll never need aye. !
Great tip from across the pond
My bleeding valve theeaded today, cant get a new one for 2 weeks any short cuts to keepnme going until then
i needed that in 2012 ....bugger !! i had to buy a new caliper doh !!
top tip brother thanks again ! 👍🏻☮❤
Good to hear from you Brother Springy... grab yourself a couple and sling them in your toolbox, you'll need them one day! Have a great weekend, D&Px
@@Moonfleet41
defo , as they say in a land down under 👍🏻😀🤘🏻
My bleeder valve broke off in half upon tightening it on the very last turn/rotation. I finished the brake job and it's the old caliper that I left on there. It's not leaking because the valve is closed (albeit broken in half). My question is, should i extract the valve and replace with a new one (assuming they sell them separately) or leave as-is and just replace the entire caliper the next time I service the brakes??
I've broken a bleed valve off in the past and because there's a hole in them, right down the centre, I was able to easily remove it with an 'easyout' and a little heat and I would do it now, rather than later on when you need them and it becomes an off the road job as if they really are jammed and you snap the easyout, you'll need a new caliper, but you've got plenty of time to get one at the moment.
You should have told me about this a couple weeks ago Del. I got my broken valve out OK but took a chunk out of the taper at the bottom of valve seat 😕 so had to get a second hand replacement caliper. Got all the system rebuild now and bleed. Seems to be all a ok. Test ride next.
Sorry mate.. but it was your request and a fair few others that prompted the video, so thanks for the nudge mate. . Glad you got it sussed out. Ride safe aye, and enjoy the weekend.! D&Px
@@Moonfleet41 Ha ha, that's ok, I'll let you off 😊 I did wonder whether the comment I made before made you think about doin this vid. Did use your tip about filling the pipes. worked a treat. 🖒
Was hoping for a hands on diy lol
This is perfect! Thank you so much!
Thanks, that'll solve a lot of folk's problems.
I didn't know these could be got..but emm, what happens to the broken valve in the caliper? there's a channel in it so it'll presumably leak, still has to be butchered out?
If a bleed valve has snapped off and refused to move, it snaps off in a closed position, so it won't leak, but if it does, that means it's not completely seized and you could quite probably get it out!
I have just machined the two front callipers of my sons Yamaha rd 350 and fitted two of your bleed nipple inserts. My question is why is there a small O ring inside the nipple. Thank you. Regards Colin Vaughan.
would be nice for a demo video, I have no idea where to put that, is it to be installed where the bleeder valve is? or it will replace the existing banjo bolt? if its going to replace the existing banjo bolt, what to use to plug the leaking bleeder valve, I don't see a matching plug bolt/screw on the product link, I need this right now, kindly assist, thanks.
If your existing bleed valve is leaking, then just replace it with a new one... even seal it if you have to with some plumbers tape... but yes, this product fits in to the banjo bolt hole and replaces it, then you just bleed out through the banjo bolt!
I have a GMC ENVOY with a snapped bleeder. The Banjo bolt seems to be about the same size but I’m unsure if it is the big enough.
Check with Wemoto, yours may be imperial rather than metric, not sure on GMC.
I found that My car needs m10 x 1.50. Can’t seem to find that anywhere. Snake eyes!
Can not wait for the next vlog...
i liked this just because of the accent
Hi found this video for that problem would have been good to show how they go on
WOW great idea, never to old learn new ideas
Patiently explained as always 👍 ., I've seen these's kits 🤔 .
Cheers Alfie, have a great weekend mate.
works for autos? & how do i know which will thread into mine?
Probably being a bit thick but where does this screw into? I have the snapped off bleed nipple on a very expensive and no longer available AMG caliper. Mike
It replaces the banjo bolt on a bike caliper....if your 'Car' caliper has a direct screw in pipe.. then this wont work for you mate !
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks for your prompt reply - I reckon you'd probably get a few views if you did a follow up video demonstrating how to fit etc.Mike
Bad Obsession Motorsports fixed a clutch slave with one of these and the first thing I thought was damn. I can fix my Honda Ascott brakes now.
imbadwrench another Binky fan! I’d actually seen / bought some these before both videos and as usual when I came to install the thread was wrong be careful when ordering guys not all threads are the same (and I did order based on make and model of bike) but I’m sure I’ll use them one day on another bike.
I just assume everyone is a Binky fan.
Can i use a bleeder banjo bolt on a car? I cant seem to find what size i would need. The website listed is for bikes only.
There will be only a limited number of thread / pitch combinations, car's or bikes, so why not just measure the 3 dimensions and call them on the phone, see if a 'bike' one has the same spec !
nice little idea to get out of a tricky situation, I thought you might of pulled out the lathe and shown us how to make one.
Ha ha, i would be honoured to have half the skills needed to turn up something like that.!
Hi Delby I love your content. While on the subject of brake calipers, will aluminium washers perform on par, worse, or better than copper washers? Pros and cons of them? Thank you
I would use copper washers on brakes. It is true that soft aluminium washers seal things like oil drain plugs very well, but i have never seen them used in braking systems from the factory, so just go with copper to be sure.
@@Moonfleet41 Cheers thank you for the advice. I'll stick to the copper ones from now on
Brilliant!
Hello Del ! Tanks’s for charing these useful tips .
May i ask you if you made à video on the chain tensioner for a Triumph T300?
I want to do it by myself, but i just bought these bike and y don’t no these brand enough.
Thank ´ again
Sorry Marc, have never owned nor had access to one, we only use the bikes we have... wishing you the best of luck with it mate.
Delboy's Garage ok no problem thank ´ s anyway
Great video del Cheers
But my issue here is my bike which is benelli uses brake banjo union and i have ripped the bleeder screw in half its stuck in the banjo how do i remove it and where can i buy the same size bleeder.
And also how to know which size would fit 1 mm or 1.25 one
Thank you.
Links under the video to a range of different sizes and options, check with Wemoto direct and ask them for the correct one for your bike. !
@@Moonfleet41 thanks for the information
Great Tip.. Thanks
What can i use to seal the bleeder screw that loosethread so i can use that 1
Did you plug it up?
Neat! Where can you get them?
Aha, linked brakes . . . dueling banjos? (Fx: A lone pistol shot echoing through the greenwood, cheering squirrels etc. : ) x
Just saw your other video on how to bleed the front and rear brakes. I did this and everything worked out perfectly fine, except for one of the bleeder screws (rear brake) that will not seal properly (I noticed it after checking on it over night).
You mention in the other video that it is very important that there is no dirt coming in between the screw and the "socket"/thread. How do I go about cleaning the bleeder screw/socket/thread without messing it all up and getting air into the system? Is this at all possible or do I have to just accept the fact and unscrew it all together and redoing/filling the system with new brake fluid after cleaning the screw/socket/thread?
Great content and videos - Cheers from Sweden!!
Hi there, if by screw/socket/thread you mean the hole that the bleed valve goes in, then don't overthink it mate, it won't mean you have to drain the whole system down or anything... if you have an airline just remove the bleed valve completely, blow out the hole with a cloth covering it to catch any fluid spry, then put the bleed valve back in, and just bleed that brake up again... not much will come out if you don't move the lever, and it'll soon bleed up... take a close look at the seat inside and the end of the bleed valve itself, see if it's corroded, or maybe just replace with a new one to be sure... good luck!
Delboy's Garage -- Hello and thank you for the quick and very comprehensive answer!
My inquiry was exactly how you interpreted it.
I will do as you suggest and hopefully it will seal completely after cleaning/checking it. I have never done maintenance myself on the bike since it still had warranty (hence always done it at the dealer) but now that the warranty is no longer I prefer to do what I can myself. I was just unsure if when unscrewing the bleed valve completely and taking it out to clean/check it the fluid would rush out/be sucked in creating a mess/air issue.
Once again thank you for the very comprehensive explanation and keep up the great work!!
Short udate - I checked and cleaned the bleed valve and the hole it goes in to. All looked brand new and clean. I put it back together and still a leak... I will get a new bleed valve (the leak is right in the joint where it meets the caliper). IF after exchanging the bleed valve the same problem continues - could it be that the caliper itself has been damaged, cracked, by tightening the bleed valve too hard during earlier services maybe? I have a slight recollection that you mention this can be the case in one of your videos...? The rear brake is the same one as on a BMW F800 GS (www.rubbersideup.com/2014-bmw-f800gs-f800-brembo-rear-brake-caliper-34-21-7-717-627).
So at the risk of sounding like an idiot, this would install at the entry point for the brake line into the caliper with a banjo fitting that seals against the face of the caliper with the crush washers? I have a 75 Commando Mk3 with the hard line at the fork. There are something like 4 segments to the Mk3 brake system, so I've removed most of them for flex line already. Wouldn't kill me to put a new piece in. Both of my bleed screws are seized and one snapped off at some point. Would rather just leave them in place. Really would like to change for a modern caliper, but most of the kits to do so are for pre 75 Commandos. Ugh. Thanks in advance!
Yes, it's a great solution to an old caliper with seized up bleed valves... you can keep it original and still have it safe and working!
I have no idea what you are showing us to do. I'll watch again but after watching the first time I learned there is a bleeder valve you screw in somewhere. That is it. Where how do you do it.
How do I fix a stripped bleed screw. Help me please🥲
Did I imagine Del ,that the Triumph had a brass front mudguard ?
Would this work if my brembo has barely any thread
Why does your Brembo have barley any thread? is it damaged ?
So do I plug the broken bleeder screw?
Yeah, if it's leaking... but if it's sealed shut..No need. !
3:02 you nip it off ? = this means to physically cutting something off (in american) idk about listening to brits i`m telling you
Yes yes i have same problem 🙂
Good tip, never heard of those.
Neat! Didn't know.
Good video mate , bring on the sportster
Wait how do you close off the bleeder valve if you're not using it then?
Just tighten it up like any bleed valve and it seals.
Good tip🤪
My nipple on the oberon slave clutch
Kawasaki Clutch Slave Cylinder CLU-2775
Is giving huge problems it’s gone rounded
Can’t get a spanner on it advice please
I'm not looking forward to doing my brakes.
How come you don't have an air compressor setup in your new shop?
Plays havoc with filming, a compressor kicking in while filming a take totally trashes it.
Well they look in good nick, I imagine a smooth flush , I did manage a 3 hole oil change......2nd derby cover I came across that needed the cover screws hammer impacted off........monkeys! Dare I say gorillas,lol
bleeding good video, del.
Did you give a tip how to prevent it in the first place-anti-seize
will this work on 4x4 systems
Yes, any regular banjo bolt can be replaced with one of these.
how do you use them though
Swap the old banjo bolt for the bleeder bolt...then use the bleed valve as normal..!!!!!
oh how I pray to almighty god I don't have to do this when I try and flush my 2012 switch back....soaking the bleed screws with a pb blaster or wd-40 the night before.....??
Don't sweat it buddy, they'll come undone just fine on a 2012 bike, you could take the step of soaking in some penetrating oil, but if they physically look clean and uncorroded, then that's what they'll be, and they should come undone easily... it's when they look nasty and rusted and all cruddy, that's when you're likely to snap them off because they'll be weak.
Hi Del, just found you by accident and binge watched you and subscribed 👍. Live in Germany, do you still collect number plates, and have you got one from Germany?
Thanks for the sub and welcome aboard! Drop us a line to delboysgarage@yahoo.com and we'll give you the details!
So pity it is English with technical terms. Mostly I learn from your videos. That's better
Sorry Del, you lost me there. Is this after you drill out the old bleed valve?
Leave the old bleed valve alone and forget about it, this replaces your banjo bolt and then you use that as the bleed point from then on.
@@Moonfleet41
Yes, I see now. Good solution 👍
You still got your tiger ?
Are you to ashamed to show a service on that
??
Did not really show the part in use. Could have made a diagram for Dummies. Too much of you, not enough actual detail in use.