I had just recently swapped out oh my gongs from the traditional hanging method to something like the Ufip method. Because my gongs hang from loose hooks on metal pipes, the problem with the traditional method is that the hooks will start to scoot together over time from the constraining pressure of the single rope. The Ufip method makes it to where each separate string is simply pulling downwards, no hook sliding. Just be sure each length of chord is even otherwise the gong could appear slightly off-kilter. Also, one thing to keep in mind about melting frayed ends of poly rope is that it creates a hard spot which can cause buzzing or rattling if it's in contact with the surface of the gong.
A lot depends on your stand and how you hang various instruments. That's why I use these 3different hanging methods. I just helped someone who had a 'buzzing' sound with their gong and I was able to determine that it was indeed the end of the knot vibrating against the gong. They had recently shortened the length go the cord, leaving more cord sticking out at one end.
I still don't like how loose it all is. The climbing cord has inner strands, but is a much tighter weave on the outer sleeve and doesn't pull out. But as I said, many people love paracord, I don't.
@@Gongtopia Paracord has its place. I use it single-stranded for my smaller and lighter-weight gongs, doubled up on some mid-range wind gongs (up to 24-26"), and I use stronger nylon cords for my heavier gongs, even tripling up on my large 50 lb. Chao gong.
Thanks, good talk! I agree with your preference on cords pretty much, I almost always use white or black fully woven nylon cord and avoid the kind with the inner core+outer sleeve construction that separates easily, although I have used some of that type for some small gongs. I'll pick up some of that BlueWater 3mm cord, thanks for the recommendation. 😎👍
I know everybody has their own opinion on cord types. This is what has worked for me over the past 20 years. I just think that if it's good enough for rock climbing, it's good enough for gongs!
This is great! I Love paracord - 750, but I melt the ends so the colored part and the white part stays connected and doesn't fray. :) I don't know how long your ropes last, but the paracord lasts months upon months for me (sometimes a year), and I swing the gong around quite a bit.
I know a lot of people like and use paracord. I’ve always preferred climbing accessory cord. So far I’ve never had to change any cords, even after 10 or more years of touring. I just use a simple knot, sometimes doubled, and melt the ends.
@@Gongtopia Wow!! That's amazing that you haven't had to change the cord! Just so I can compare to my experience w/paracord, do you swing the gongs a lot when you play (swinging door and/or pendulum)? And that's perfect, that is how I knot mine as well, thank you so much!
Exceedingly informative. 👏🏽 I'm curious about that pad on the back of the gong. I'm assuming it's dampening the crash prospect. I look forward to receiving the cuppa on that particular application. 🙂✌🏽🙏🏽
Hi Michael - thanks so much for sharing all these wonderful tips & tricks. I’ve learned so much from following your videos! What is the ‘snap swivel spinner’ you use for the Kyeezee? I couldn’t find anything similar at the hardware store. I tried using a barrel swivel from fishing tackle, but it doesn’t spin very freely. I hope you don’t mind one more question: I tried the 3mm cord for my wind gongs but the holes are so big, I had to make 4-5 knots and now the cord clacks whenever I strike the gong. I don’t bang, the clack is mostly noticeable to me, enough that I find it distracting. Any thoughts? Thanks again for sharing your wisdom and lifetime experience for all!
I usually get them at a sporting goods or fishing tackle store. Look for good quality ones. Here's an example on Amazon (just search snap swivels to get a lot of different ones): www.amazon.com/Dr-Fish-Stainless-Strength-Saltwater-Freshwater/dp/B072BZ1395/ref=sr_1_33_sspa?crid=3ICBTISXKWTBX&keywords=snap%2Bswivels&qid=1650505518&sprefix=snap%2Bswivels%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-33-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyOUNIVDQzMkMzMFhEJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjcyODAwM0pGVlhWMEhSQ0FYSSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODU2OTEzMkZROVlCTlQyOVRWNiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1&psc=1
I’ve also noticed Chinese gongs coming with bigger holes and thicker rope like yours. If it’s a Chau gong, you can make a loop with the cord and use various diameter cord. If it’s a flat Wind type, you need to use much larger cord, or sometimes you can use a leather washer between the knot and the gong. I wish they would keep the holes smaller. 🤷🏻♂️
Thanks for your very helpful tips and suggestions! I perform with a Taiko group in Houston, TX. We have a 32" chau gong that has developed a small crack in the surface (7 o'clock midway from center to edge). Can this be protected with tape on the back and still be playable? Or is there a repair method available?
A lot depends on the type of gong and where it’s cracked, but it’s difficult to repair a cracked gong. There are 2 main ways you can try: 1) You need to drill a hole at each end of the crack (or at the end, if an edge crack). The hole should be bigger than the width of the crack (probably ⅜” - ¼”). Make sure to drill a bit beyond the end of the crack because there will be micro cracks that you can’t see (Drill ¼” - ½” past the end of the crack). The idea here is you want to keep the crack from jumping the hole. Now depending in the crack, if it rubs and makes noise, you may need to file it so the metal doesn’t touch. What happens next is a big unknown. The gong could still sound great and the drilled crack can be fine indefinitely. Or, the ‘repair’ may alter sound some and the crack could expand at any time. So obviously, tape won’t do anything. Welding or brazing is not recommended, as the heat can change the temper of the metal and actually make it brittle and susceptible to bre/Marching bandsaking or more cracking. 2) Some people have had success with ‘JB Weld,’ which is a very strong epoxy used to repair metals: www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld-syringe. It could be worth a try, but again, there are no guarantees it will work, or if it does, for how long. One thing, if you are a Taiko group and are trying to get a very loud crash out of a 32” Chau and you need to play it extra hard, you actually need to get a BIGGER gong, like a 38”-40”. You can only get so much volume out of a 32”. Drum Corps go through more gongs, because they buy gongs too small for the volume they need and they end up beating they gongs to death! I hope this helps.
Second question: can you do a video about your metal plates? I was really interested in the sound of the aluminum moon plate and the UFIP metal plate you used to demo a hanging method in this video. I'd love to hear your thoughts on metal plates in general as well as a little tour of your collection. Thanks for the great resources, Michael!
First question: can you give some guidelines on which sizes of gongs/bells work well with the bent s-hook method you described and perhaps which method is best for the largest gongs?
Hmmm, not sure which one you mean. The 'S' hooks will work with any size gong up to 40-50". On the larger gongs, it really depends on both the size of the cord and the hook. The 'S' hooks come in various sizes and weight ratings. I've hung everything from small bells to 40" gongs.
Very helpful! It would’ve been appreciated if you would cut to the chase and tell us what materials you prefer rather than all those you don’t, but I understand.
@@tonysunseedpalmer2914 Yes, I've used it on many of my bronze singing bowls. It's an old trick drummers use to clean their cymbals. I wouldn't hesitate to use it on bronze wind gongs, like the stained one in this video, but I would test a small area first with German nickel silver gongs to make sure, and would only use it on the shiny center part of the gong, and not the darken outer rim.
Ketchup is an acid. Many people also use lemon juice. I always try less aggressive cleaners, like various soaps, before moving on to something harsher. Brasso and similar metal polishes usually have abrasives in them, like pumice or limestone, which will remove metal and scratch the surface. If I have a real bad stain, I might use an abrasive cleaner «one-time-only» to get the stain off, then coat the area with a wax to keep it from staining again. Each case is different. In the case of the gong in the video, I might just leave it alone because it's not that bad.
super informative video just when I need to rehang my Paiste 38" Sun gong. Much appreciated!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the video, especially the variety and detail of cords and hanging methods. Very helpful.
You are welcome.
I had just recently swapped out oh my gongs from the traditional hanging method to something like the Ufip method. Because my gongs hang from loose hooks on metal pipes, the problem with the traditional method is that the hooks will start to scoot together over time from the constraining pressure of the single rope. The Ufip method makes it to where each separate string is simply pulling downwards, no hook sliding. Just be sure each length of chord is even otherwise the gong could appear slightly off-kilter.
Also, one thing to keep in mind about melting frayed ends of poly rope is that it creates a hard spot which can cause buzzing or rattling if it's in contact with the surface of the gong.
A lot depends on your stand and how you hang various instruments. That's why I use these 3different hanging methods.
I just helped someone who had a 'buzzing' sound with their gong and I was able to determine that it was indeed the end of the knot vibrating against the gong. They had recently shortened the length go the cord, leaving more cord sticking out at one end.
Good stuff buddy
If you heat the ends of 550 paracord it works just fine as the inner core and sleeve are fused together at both ends.
I still don't like how loose it all is. The climbing cord has inner strands, but is a much tighter weave on the outer sleeve and doesn't pull out. But as I said, many people love paracord, I don't.
@@Gongtopia Paracord has its place. I use it single-stranded for my smaller and lighter-weight gongs, doubled up on some mid-range wind gongs (up to 24-26"), and I use stronger nylon cords for my heavier gongs, even tripling up on my large 50 lb. Chao gong.
Thanks, good talk! I agree with your preference on cords pretty much, I almost always use white or black fully woven nylon cord and avoid the kind with the inner core+outer sleeve construction that separates easily, although I have used some of that type for some small gongs. I'll pick up some of that BlueWater 3mm cord, thanks for the recommendation. 😎👍
I know everybody has their own opinion on cord types. This is what has worked for me over the past 20 years. I just think that if it's good enough for rock climbing, it's good enough for gongs!
Hey Michael, I'm curious if you have any videos showing how you make your knots at the end of the rope?
I just use a standard overhand knot, sometimes done twice to make a bigger end. It all depends on the size of the hole and the diameter of the cord.
@@Gongtopia thank youuuu!
This is great! I Love paracord - 750, but I melt the ends so the colored part and the white part stays connected and doesn't fray. :) I don't know how long your ropes last, but the paracord lasts months upon months for me (sometimes a year), and I swing the gong around quite a bit.
I know a lot of people like and use paracord. I’ve always preferred climbing accessory cord. So far I’ve never had to change any cords, even after 10 or more years of touring. I just use a simple knot, sometimes doubled, and melt the ends.
@@Gongtopia Wow!! That's amazing that you haven't had to change the cord! Just so I can compare to my experience w/paracord, do you swing the gongs a lot when you play (swinging door and/or pendulum)? And that's perfect, that is how I knot mine as well, thank you so much!
Thanks
Exceedingly informative. 👏🏽
I'm curious about that pad on the back of the gong. I'm assuming it's dampening the crash prospect. I look forward to receiving the cuppa on that particular application. 🙂✌🏽🙏🏽
I should do a whole video on gong dampening…
Hi Michael - thanks so much for sharing all these wonderful tips & tricks. I’ve learned so much from following your videos! What is the ‘snap swivel spinner’ you use for the Kyeezee? I couldn’t find anything similar at the hardware store. I tried using a barrel swivel from fishing tackle, but it doesn’t spin very freely.
I hope you don’t mind one more question: I tried the 3mm cord for my wind gongs but the holes are so big, I had to make 4-5 knots and now the cord clacks whenever I strike the gong. I don’t bang, the clack is mostly noticeable to me, enough that I find it distracting. Any thoughts?
Thanks again for sharing your wisdom and lifetime experience for all!
I usually get them at a sporting goods or fishing tackle store. Look for good quality ones. Here's an example on Amazon (just search snap swivels to get a lot of different ones): www.amazon.com/Dr-Fish-Stainless-Strength-Saltwater-Freshwater/dp/B072BZ1395/ref=sr_1_33_sspa?crid=3ICBTISXKWTBX&keywords=snap%2Bswivels&qid=1650505518&sprefix=snap%2Bswivels%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-33-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyOUNIVDQzMkMzMFhEJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjcyODAwM0pGVlhWMEhSQ0FYSSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODU2OTEzMkZROVlCTlQyOVRWNiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1&psc=1
I’ve also noticed Chinese gongs coming with bigger holes and thicker rope like yours. If it’s a Chau gong, you can make a loop with the cord and use various diameter cord. If it’s a flat Wind type, you need to use much larger cord, or sometimes you can use a leather washer between the knot and the gong. I wish they would keep the holes smaller. 🤷🏻♂️
Thanks for your very helpful tips and suggestions! I perform with a Taiko group in Houston, TX. We have a 32" chau gong that has developed a small crack in the surface (7 o'clock midway from center to edge). Can this be protected with tape on the back and still be playable? Or is there a repair method available?
A lot depends on the type of gong and where it’s cracked, but it’s difficult to repair a cracked gong. There are 2 main ways you can try:
1) You need to drill a hole at each end of the crack (or at the end, if an edge crack). The hole should be bigger than the width of the crack (probably ⅜” - ¼”). Make sure to drill a bit beyond the end of the crack because there will be micro cracks that you can’t see (Drill ¼” - ½” past the end of the crack). The idea here is you want to keep the crack from jumping the hole.
Now depending in the crack, if it rubs and makes noise, you may need to file it so the metal doesn’t touch. What happens next is a big unknown. The gong could still sound great and the drilled crack can be fine indefinitely. Or, the ‘repair’ may alter sound some and the crack could expand at any time.
So obviously, tape won’t do anything. Welding or brazing is not recommended, as the heat can change the temper of the metal and actually make it brittle and susceptible to bre/Marching bandsaking or more cracking.
2) Some people have had success with ‘JB Weld,’ which is a very strong epoxy used to repair metals: www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld-syringe. It could be worth a try, but again, there are no guarantees it will work, or if it does, for how long.
One thing, if you are a Taiko group and are trying to get a very loud crash out of a 32” Chau and you need to play it extra hard, you actually need to get a BIGGER gong, like a 38”-40”. You can only get so much volume out of a 32”. Drum Corps go through more gongs, because they buy gongs too small for the volume they need and they end up beating they gongs to death!
I hope this helps.
Second question: can you do a video about your metal plates? I was really interested in the sound of the aluminum moon plate and the UFIP metal plate you used to demo a hanging method in this video. I'd love to hear your thoughts on metal plates in general as well as a little tour of your collection. Thanks for the great resources, Michael!
There's a full video on various plates coming up…
Hello. Great video! May I ask what kind of knot you make with a 32" Chao? Thanks.
I just use a regular overhand knot, sometimes doubled if the hole is bigger.
First question: can you give some guidelines on which sizes of gongs/bells work well with the bent s-hook method you described and perhaps which method is best for the largest gongs?
Hmmm, not sure which one you mean. The 'S' hooks will work with any size gong up to 40-50". On the larger gongs, it really depends on both the size of the cord and the hook. The 'S' hooks come in various sizes and weight ratings. I've hung everything from small bells to 40" gongs.
Very helpful! It would’ve been appreciated if you would cut to the chase and tell us what materials you prefer rather than all those you don’t, but I understand.
What would be the fun in that? Seriously, I wanted to cover the things I don't like first because so many others recommend them first.
How do you store your gongs when not in use?
Hmmm, sounds like a good topic to cover as I store them multiple ways.
Try using ketchup to remove the stain in the gong. Slab it on rub it in and let it sit for 5 minutes before wiping off. :)
Have you attempted this method?
@@tonysunseedpalmer2914 Yes, I've used it on many of my bronze singing bowls. It's an old trick drummers use to clean their cymbals. I wouldn't hesitate to use it on bronze wind gongs, like the stained one in this video, but I would test a small area first with German nickel silver gongs to make sure, and would only use it on the shiny center part of the gong, and not the darken outer rim.
Ketchup is an acid. Many people also use lemon juice. I always try less aggressive cleaners, like various soaps, before moving on to something harsher. Brasso and similar metal polishes usually have abrasives in them, like pumice or limestone, which will remove metal and scratch the surface. If I have a real bad stain, I might use an abrasive cleaner «one-time-only» to get the stain off, then coat the area with a wax to keep it from staining again. Each case is different. In the case of the gong in the video, I might just leave it alone because it's not that bad.
FIRST!