I’ve found to get the RF modulator off easier, I use my desoldering gun AND my soldering iron at the same time. About 325C and the ground plain has a harder time sucking all the heat away. You’ll be surprised how much smoother it comes off. Thanks for the video!!
Just how I love to start my Friday -- Fix It Friday with LIRG and a cup of coffee! Love the video, as always! I really should get around to emailing you about a mod project I have involving an old Sears Tele-Games six switcher that I have.
The way to get talented is by executing. Just go for it, have confidence in yourself that you can learn how to do it. Several years ago I was wondering how electronics were designed and I thought it was basically magic, then one day I found out about arduino on youtube(actually it startrd with Ben Eaters breadboard CPU), but shortly after I found out about arduino and I purchased one which caused a chain reaction. Now I am working with arm MCUs, FPGAs and designing my own mods and products like game controllers.
Yeah this one has a few extra steps, especially if you don’t want to cut up the shell. And personally I think that’s the best way to do it, because everything looks very clean afterwards
@@LIRetroGaming It is! one of the best style mods for consoles I personally enjoy are those that use the form-factor of the console in consideration to do it's job.
I have six nes top-loaders with a/v out (no rf) like the snes and n64. And I purchased these units directly from Nintendo back in 1995. I'm not sure how many were made or what the current value would be of these systems. Any info. would be greatly appreciated!!! And I love your channel!!!
Wow that’s amazing! I have heard of these top loaders but they are quite hard to find. Nintendo made small quantities with multiouts in response to complaints from some customers. The RF output from the Toploader is quite bad and some models are a little worse than others. Customers complained and then received replacements with multiouts
It would be really cool to open up one of these and take a look at what is similar and different. There is a Japanese version of the NES called the AV Famicom, It has a multi out and I’m curious how similar it is to what you own!
This is definitely a more intermediate project, so I would suggest starting with some easier project first before trying an NESRGB. It’s definitely not for beginners
Awww yea, Fix it Friday! Dont think Ive ever actually seen an NES in real life... I guess I must have at some point but I cant remember if I did. Enjoyed the tear down and upgrade :) Edit: Out of curiosity would there be any benefit to using both a desoldering gun **and** chipquick? or would it just basically suck up the chipquick with but the chipquick needs to be on the board to do its job?
You can combine the chipquik and a desoldering gun but it can cause issues. The chipquik can end up clogging the desoldering gun and it’s rather annoying to clean it out
I have HVC-101 Famicom with High-Def mod. It’s about the best you can get from original hardware. But seems no more these boards are made. So Rgb mod with RetroTINK-5X Pro would be option i guess or Mister FPGA.
I think I might have just damaged the ppu when trying to remove it. I did the same 3 step approach but I think I applied too much pressure with the screwdriver at the end. I guess I'll now need to complete the install and then test to see if it is good.
@@LIRetroGaming just wanted to mention that I finished the mod and the PPU was not damaged; it all worked out good! However, I am seeing some jailbars after performing the nesrgb install on my top loader. Is this normal? I thought that the jailbars would have been completely removed after doing the nesrgb mod.
let me give you an important note if you need A-V only you can take them right from these pins to the RF module because it takes the default composite audio and video in convert it into RF signal yes its not RGB signal but its much much better quality than the RF
There’s a capacitor on the left that prevents everything from sitting flush. I remove it and lay it flat against the board, which gets it out of the way
@@LIRetroGaming Ok I appreciate it. One part that has been confusing me is where exactly the PPU is supposed to sit on the NESRGB. Where do the pins for the adapter board for a toploader go? Should one row be on the outside and then another underneath where the PPU sits?
@@LIRetroGaming that helps, thanks. I got confused and made some mistakes along the way. I added the PPU before the headers connecting to the adapter board. Now I have to desolder the PPU or solder that one header from the bottom.
Thank you for this video, very informative with nice picture 🙂 Could you please tell what kind of cable you use to get RGB from the console. Also you shorted J8 jumper, is it because you don’t have 75ohm resistor in this cable? Very appreciate for the answers ☺️
Thanks, glad that you enjoyed it! I actually removed the bridge on J8 later on - that was a mistake because the cable does have the 75ohm resistor built in. This mod is compatible with Hd retrovision component cables or the insurrection industries snes RGB cable: insurrectionindustries.com/product/super-nintendo-entertainment-system-rgb-scart-cable/
@@LIRetroGaming Thank you for the reply! Unfortunately these cables out of stock now. I’ve also tried to install the nesrgb to my av famicom, but after that I have scrambled video. How do you think, can it be the cable issue? Just for showing the result, it’s hers: ruclips.net/video/BV7VBiMm-bc/видео.html
@@xsmile592x I just watched the video and it looks like you have sync and then you lose it. What type of SNES RGB cable are you using on the AV famicom? Jumper J8 should not be bridged on the nesrgb board
@@xsmile592x these cables are also good www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/SUPER-NINTENDO-SUPER-FAMICOM-GAMECUBE-WII-N64-SNES-NES-RGB-SCART-CSYNC-COMPONENT-YPBPR-HDTV-HDMI-VIDEO-CABLES-CORDS-RAD2X/SUPER-NINTENDO-SUPER-FAMICOM-SNES-NES-RGB-SCART-CSYNC-COMPONENT-YPBPR-HDTV-HDMI-VIDEO-CABLES-CORDS-RAD2X/SUPER-NINTENDO-PAL-NTSC-PACKAPUNCH-RGB-SCART-CABLES/packapunch-super-nintendo-entertainment-system-snes-n64-rgb-av-scart-cable-ntsc-gold-scart
Technically all of these changes can be reversed for what it’s worth. The alternative is a method that can’t be reversed (drilling holes in the plastic for a new RGB port).
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
That Pictionary title screen jam goes with everything.
Yeah I love the music in that game!
Just recieved my first ever top loader in the mail today. Those jailbars are quite noticeable! Looking at doing this in the future. lol
I’ve found to get the RF modulator off easier, I use my desoldering gun AND my soldering iron at the same time. About 325C and the ground plain has a harder time sucking all the heat away. You’ll be surprised how much smoother it comes off. Thanks for the video!!
Definitely a good idea! It definitely needs a lot of heat in order to come loose
Just how I love to start my Friday -- Fix It Friday with LIRG and a cup of coffee! Love the video, as always!
I really should get around to emailing you about a mod project I have involving an old Sears Tele-Games six switcher that I have.
Absolutely, I can help with that. I’m going to be on vacation for the next two weeks but then I’ll be back and resuming my work!
@@LIRetroGaming Good to know! Have a great vacation and we'll see you when you get back!
Ahh, my nostalgia is strongly for the og model even though these top loaders are more sought after
Same, my preference is still for the original but I also own a toploader
You deserve way more subscribers! I love how clean your mods end up looking. Great job!
Thanks! I really appreciate the feedback and I’m glad you enjoyed the video
Is there a way to mod a top loader to be a pal machine? cpu, ppu, and an oscillator, what else?
Actually those three things are all that would need to be changed. Install a PAL CPU, PPU, and clock, and it should behave like a PAL NES
@@LIRetroGaming How about the cic? just go around it?
@@VuRkka Just desolder and lift the leg that talks to the cartridge CIC, there's guides online
Not enough talent over here to attempt that mod… You break it down so well too. Great content as always.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed this one!
The way to get talented is by executing.
Just go for it, have confidence in yourself that you can learn how to do it.
Several years ago I was wondering how electronics were designed and I thought it was basically magic, then one day I found out about arduino on youtube(actually it startrd with Ben Eaters breadboard CPU), but shortly after I found out about arduino and I purchased one which caused a chain reaction.
Now I am working with arm MCUs, FPGAs and designing my own mods and products like game controllers.
Hi, what size tip did you use on the gun? Great job there
This seems like one of the more involved RGB mods I've seen for the toploader.
Yeah this one has a few extra steps, especially if you don’t want to cut up the shell. And personally I think that’s the best way to do it, because everything looks very clean afterwards
@@LIRetroGaming It is! one of the best style mods for consoles I personally enjoy are those that use the form-factor of the console in consideration to do it's job.
I have six nes top-loaders with a/v out (no rf) like the snes and n64. And I purchased these units directly from Nintendo back in 1995. I'm not sure how many were made or what the current value would be of these systems. Any info. would be greatly appreciated!!! And I love your channel!!!
Wow that’s amazing! I have heard of these top loaders but they are quite hard to find. Nintendo made small quantities with multiouts in response to complaints from some customers. The RF output from the Toploader is quite bad and some models are a little worse than others. Customers complained and then received replacements with multiouts
It would be really cool to open up one of these and take a look at what is similar and different. There is a Japanese version of the NES called the AV Famicom, It has a multi out and I’m curious how similar it is to what you own!
I would love to do this, but I am new to soldering, so I am not sure if this would be a good project to start.
This is definitely a more intermediate project, so I would suggest starting with some easier project first before trying an NESRGB. It’s definitely not for beginners
Awww yea, Fix it Friday! Dont think Ive ever actually seen an NES in real life... I guess I must have at some point but I cant remember if I did. Enjoyed the tear down and upgrade :)
Edit: Out of curiosity would there be any benefit to using both a desoldering gun **and** chipquick? or would it just basically suck up the chipquick with but the chipquick needs to be on the board to do its job?
You can combine the chipquik and a desoldering gun but it can cause issues. The chipquik can end up clogging the desoldering gun and it’s rather annoying to clean it out
I have HVC-101 Famicom with High-Def mod. It’s about the best you can get from original hardware. But seems no more these boards are made. So Rgb mod with RetroTINK-5X Pro would be option i guess or Mister FPGA.
I think I might have just damaged the ppu when trying to remove it. I did the same 3 step approach but I think I applied too much pressure with the screwdriver at the end. I guess I'll now need to complete the install and then test to see if it is good.
I hope that it all works out. That step is very challenging and you definitely can’t use too much force when removing the chip
@@LIRetroGaming thanks! I'll finish the installation this weekend. I hope that I didn't break it!
@@LIRetroGaming just wanted to mention that I finished the mod and the PPU was not damaged; it all worked out good! However, I am seeing some jailbars after performing the nesrgb install on my top loader. Is this normal? I thought that the jailbars would have been completely removed after doing the nesrgb mod.
let me give you an important note if you need A-V only you can take them right from these pins to the RF module because it takes the default composite audio and video in convert it into RF signal yes its not RGB signal but its much much better quality than the RF
Yes that is correct, if you want composite video you can extract it from those places
@@LIRetroGaming your respond means a lot for me thanks so much
so after you install the snes video port, can you use the retrovision component cables?
Yes definitely
What solder do you typically use for these game consoles?
Great video dude. Just picked up one of these Top Loaders today by the Smithaven Mall. Would you mind modding mine? I'm also on the island. Thanks!
Sure thing! just reach me on my website 1uprestorations.com
Tinned the pad on nesrgb for chroma by accident?
Correct! I didn’t really need to connect chroma and luma since s video is not being used
How do you avoid the odd quirk of this mod where with the adapter board the pins are slightly too high for the PPU to sit flush?
There’s a capacitor on the left that prevents everything from sitting flush. I remove it and lay it flat against the board, which gets it out of the way
@@LIRetroGaming Ok I appreciate it. One part that has been confusing me is where exactly the PPU is supposed to sit on the NESRGB. Where do the pins for the adapter board for a toploader go? Should one row be on the outside and then another underneath where the PPU sits?
Not sure if this helps, but here are some toploader install pics photos.app.goo.gl/zDHhhvPUyoNe5RZB8
@@LIRetroGaming that helps, thanks. I got confused and made some mistakes along the way. I added the PPU before the headers connecting to the adapter board. Now I have to desolder the PPU or solder that one header from the bottom.
Did you or anyone else get the top line wobble/flickering? I used a rev 2 board with 2.2 FW and still haven't been able to get around it.
I actually haven’t seen this before with the NESRGB
@@LIRetroGaming Ok, my use case must be slightly different. Thanks for responding.
What game is the song from at 4:06?
It should be in the description
@@LIRetroGaming Thanks, I thought it sounded like that.
Thank you for this video, very informative with nice picture 🙂 Could you please tell what kind of cable you use to get RGB from the console. Also you shorted J8 jumper, is it because you don’t have 75ohm resistor in this cable?
Very appreciate for the answers ☺️
Thanks, glad that you enjoyed it! I actually removed the bridge on J8 later on - that was a mistake because the cable does have the 75ohm resistor built in. This mod is compatible with Hd retrovision component cables or the insurrection industries snes RGB cable: insurrectionindustries.com/product/super-nintendo-entertainment-system-rgb-scart-cable/
@@LIRetroGaming Thank you for the reply! Unfortunately these cables out of stock now. I’ve also tried to install the nesrgb to my av famicom, but after that I have scrambled video. How do you think, can it be the cable issue?
Just for showing the result, it’s hers: ruclips.net/video/BV7VBiMm-bc/видео.html
@@xsmile592x I just watched the video and it looks like you have sync and then you lose it. What type of SNES RGB cable are you using on the AV famicom? Jumper J8 should not be bridged on the nesrgb board
@@xsmile592x these cables are also good www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/SUPER-NINTENDO-SUPER-FAMICOM-GAMECUBE-WII-N64-SNES-NES-RGB-SCART-CSYNC-COMPONENT-YPBPR-HDTV-HDMI-VIDEO-CABLES-CORDS-RAD2X/SUPER-NINTENDO-SUPER-FAMICOM-SNES-NES-RGB-SCART-CSYNC-COMPONENT-YPBPR-HDTV-HDMI-VIDEO-CABLES-CORDS-RAD2X/SUPER-NINTENDO-PAL-NTSC-PACKAPUNCH-RGB-SCART-CABLES/packapunch-super-nintendo-entertainment-system-snes-n64-rgb-av-scart-cable-ntsc-gold-scart
@@LIRetroGamingThank you 😉
*WOW!*
Where on LI are you?
I’m in Nassau but I go all over the island
Come on go fibre optic or built in wireless A/V
next time, I will make sure it has a microwave so it can cook my dinner and also lasers for home defense.
@@LIRetroGaming use a Dreamcast and turn it into a George foreman grill
I’m here literally learning how to do this shit from scratch because NO ONE is available to do it for money.
I can do this for you. I’m taking a break this week but you can reach me on my website. The link is in the description
Seems a bit too destructive for my liking.
Technically all of these changes can be reversed for what it’s worth. The alternative is a method that can’t be reversed (drilling holes in the plastic for a new RGB port).
I aint ruining my toploader for no mods
No it’s forcing you to do that. Enjoy your NES