Great one, nice to see that you're back I've been keeping a look out for any new videos the last few weeks. I just did this mod to my Japanese Famicom a few weeks back. Some of the steps are different but the end goal was the same. It was pretty time consuming and for me a pretty intense mod (though I did end up buying a desolder gun for it), but all went well and I'm really happy with it. I love the way the Famicom looks and if I was going to have a version of the NES on display I wanted it to be that even if it required more work. I also added in detachable NES cables and I'm currently finishing up making the first player controller wireless with the 8bitdo controller mod... just waiting on a part from China to wrap it up.
Really clean job on making that hole for the multi-out, and overall an awesome mod as always! Yeah taking those PPUs out is a real pain especially around those 4 EXT pins where that huge ground plane is, but you make it look easy!
@@LIRetroGaming What're you using for solder? The NES is old enough that the original is tin/lead-but some people who work on electronics of this age swear by bismuth low-temp solder during the desoldering phase. That seems like an added expense to me-the NES needs a good iron for PPU desoldering, but it's pretty hardy by comparison to say some of the Tandy PCBs of the era.
I love watching these types of videos. I like to projects like these when I have the time and money. I learned how to solder by watching RUclips videos like this on your channel.
Excellent video! Thumbs up for reflowing the solder on the pins after snipping off the top! So many people miss that step. BTW, You're probably aware of this already, but I find applying flux to the top (component) side on the pins of through hole parts like that PPU helps the desoldering gun. I think it just helps break up any oxide layer that wasn't reached by adding the additional solder to the underside. Particularly useful if the solder is a bit more "grungey" than normal. (I learned the technique working on systems with battery or capacitor damage)
Thank you so much for the video!! I have a front loader with this RGB kit, but have been using that horrible scart cable that comes with it. I tried many times converting the kit to the multi out port, with no luck. Would get sound only and no picture. The cable with the kit, doesn't use the same sync as the multi out, when it comes off the RBG board. Once seeing how you wired it, switching just that one wire, everything works great!! I even have the S Video connection working which looks great on an old, flat screen CRT!!
I did one of these a few months ago. You make it look so easy. I'm pretty sure I just barely got it to work, given that I'm such a novice. The only difference is that I put the pallete selector under the cartridge lid so it at least was out of the way. I used a 4 way switch so I could use the original composite if I ever needed to and didn't have a snes composite cable.
Great video as always! I recently opened up my ntsc rgb-modded nes to add expansion audio and one of these multi-outs. Ran into some issues, and haven't had the time to get back to it. My question is, do I need to bypass/short some of the components on the nesrgb on the r, g and b lines for it to work properly, or is this not necessary? I don't get any video from it😔 I'm using a ntsc retrogamingcables snes scart cable. I tried to find any mention of this in your video, so my apologies if I missed it and you actually mentioned it in the video after all✌
No, you should not need to short anything on the RGB lines. It’s hard to diagnose without looking at it but you should just be able to transfer the wires over from one connector to the other
Great video! Is there a reason why the 2 S-video pins are left out from the Multi-out (Luma & Chroma)? This was also the case on Voultars videos, and a few others I could found. I'm assuming it is is still possible to wire those up too with the extra 2 wires to get that capability, but it was left out since S-video is rarely used, is that correct?
That’s exactly right, I could have added svideo but I chose not to because most people that want this mod are only planning to use RGB or component. Glad that you enjoyed the video!
@@LIRetroGaming Thanks a lot! I chose to wire up the additional Luma-Chroma-pins, and my S-video Multi-out cables work perfectly. After researching a bit, it seems there is another benefit of wiring up Luma in particular. It seems there are 3 major variants of RGB SCART cables: csync, sync on composite and sync on luma. Not wiring up Luma will remove compatibility with the sync on luma RGB, which seems to be common on SNES PAL SCART RGB cables. Sync on composite seems to be the most common one overall (also used by the HD Retrovision cables), but for the cheaper unshielded cables, it seems modding the cables to use csync alternatively sync on luma is recommended, for reducing video artifacts, like checkerboard patterns in backgrounds which is common when using sync on composite. I had a checkerboard pattern on one of my cheap unshielded SNES PAL RGB-cables, and after modding it to use sync on luma, it worked perfectly. Sources: www.retrorgb.com/sync.html www.retrorgb.com/snescsync.html
Triple bypass is for a Sega Genesis, bypass audio, video, and stereo sound to the genesis 2 9 pin mini din. This video is Tim Worthington’s NESRGB board.
This isn't a mod I would do (mainly because I don't currently have a NES), but, as always, I really enjoy watching you do them and hearing you talk about them! The more I see your hot air station the more I want to get one. Are there any good PSVita mods out there you would recommend?
Yes the hot air station really makes a difference and can make these installations a lot easier. I don’t know of any real hardware mods for the vita, only soft mods that enable homebrew
Sorry for the question, but what are the gauges of those color cables you used for the mod? I ordered a 30AWG color spool, but I believe this are to frail and not "strong enough" for this kind of mod.
I have a link for the flush cutter here, but I don’t have one for the file. I picked up a file set at Home Depot. Here’s the flush cutters: www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwibypD3wMD2AhXKUHIKHULJBY8YABAJGgJxdQ&sig=AOD64_3zVf256Rl1fXqSZqx1KF4ro7RXcw&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjtm4X3wMD2AhUglIkEHRNsCLYQwg96BAgBEAo&adurl=
Awesome job but I wish you spent more time showing the audio differences, I was hoping to at least hear the US audio of Castlevania VS the Japanese version.
Hello I have a question If I'm doing this same mod with the NesRGB v3 do I need to install a Voltage regulator if I want to use everdrives so it doesn't get to hot or should I be ok? Thank you very much and I love your content :) take care
The iron can be cheap, just as long as it is temperature controlled. The desoldering iron probably should be something good like a Hakko fr301. Do you have experience with removing chips? Because that’s probably the most important thing when going into the NESRGB installation. Definitely get practice with that before you attempt it
If anyone is thinking about getting this mod done, it is the best thing you can do to your NES or Famicom. It makes a huge difference. I have found that the laserbear multi out is a bit of a snug fit on my Sharp Twin. But the picture you get with hd retrovision cables is immaculate. I had no idea how horrible composite was until the mod was done. I did see a video years ago where someone added an expansion audio mixer to the nes with a mixer knob, and one if those expansion audio boards that plug into the port in the bottom. Thought it was a pretty cool mod. Is there a way to get rid of having to push the cart down into the nes that is not the Blinking Light Win mod? That product has not been available for a while now. My NES has a hard time reading games if I don't have the game genie hooked up. I'd rather not have to rely on a game genie for my carts to work right lol. Not sure if the TW Rgb boards are available anymore either. Last time I checked, they were all out.
@@LIRetroGaming nice video! BLW has had some serious problems with the company that they contracted to make the BLWs, but they are actively searching for a replacement, so hopefully we will see something soon.
Wondering why you didn’t use any flux when desoldering or re-soldering in the 40pin? I’m just getting into soldering in general and thought it was necessary. Thanks for the vids!!
That’s a very good question. Occasionally I will use flux when I’m doing the PPU removal but I rarely ever need it. I use flux a lot when I’m soldering in new components, but much less when I’m trying to remove a component
flux isn't all that necessary for desoldering with a gun, flux helps the solder flow nicely and get a good solid bond, but that isn't something you need for desoldering. For the re-soldering, the vast majority of solder on the market has solid flux in the center of the wire that melts when you use the iron, and that flux is sufficient for basic stuff like soldering through hole pins as long as you work quickly. It will burn off if you take too long and it won't work for everything, but for this application it is enough
Nice mode but why not use a push button switch that looks better than the switch you use. I feel like if your going to go through this trouble to make the multiout look nice you might as well make the switch look nice too.
Sure thing, here’s one that I order fairly regularly Eowpower 16.5Ft/5M 20Pin Rainbow Color Flat Ribbon Cable IDC Wire Cable www.amazon.com/dp/B01NC2L2WB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_W6Y6WCZ0N49PH14B2PS1
I am using an SNESRGB cable from insurrection industries. You can also use HD retrovision component cables. I was connecting it to the OSSC so that will certainly work
Have you found there is a low amount of buzz when the game is otherwise silent? I notice it a lot on SMB3 before I start the game. I've attempted troubleshooting, ensuring everything is connected correctly, upgrading the 5v regulator, disconnecting the original audio circuit, nothing really seems to have effected it
@@LIRetroGaming yeah I should have mentioned, I'm using the mini din supplied with the kit. However I route the audio from the NESRGB to 2 RCA jacks. I use shielded coax (Belden 1694a) to route the audio. I feel like I've narrowed it down to either noise being picked up in the NESRGB itself, the outpost just having noise from the CPU, or potentially the power brick. I have a triad coming to test that. I was really more asking to see if there's just always a low level of background noise and I'm just trying to squeeze too much from it.
All that's left to do with a toaster like this to turn it into a perfect 8 bit console is come up with a better solution to the toaster mechanism. I guess some people might want the a stereo separation mod as well, but I'm not convinced that's worth it.
@@LIRetroGaming I know it exists, but I've never managed to find ArcadeWorks having them in stock, unfortunately. Anyone who can install the RGB mod (so … not me without some better hardware than my Mk. I optical sensors) could produce a Blinking Light Win by soldering a couple 72 pin card edges to a really simple PCB, 3D printing a cart tray, and doing a CIC disable switch mod. But I can't do that soldering myself (I need some better magnifying tools or to get someone else to do it), and I'd rather finance ArcadeWorks doing other cool things in the future.
I have basically the same install except i'm using the qsb and ribbon cable to the multi-out. Having an issue getting RGB scart cables to work, no issues with an HDR SNES cable. I've tried a csync and luma sync snes scart cables with no luck. Any ideas what I should try? Thanks!
That’s an interesting problem, and I have never tried using a QSB to install this before. The fact that HDR cables work means that composite video, RGB are all there and working. Did you use a multimeter to test continuity between the luma pin on the multiout to the NESRGB board? I would also try the same thing for the csync pin
@@LIRetroGaming so J3 is open because I'm using the external VR, I've got J5 shorted for ntsc luma freq and also J8 for 75 ohm sync. Y and V pins on the rgb board have continuity with the qsb pins. So, that's got to leave the scart cable as the culprit no? Would I see anything with no luma?
I have 1st gen Sega Genesis and the power brick is dead so I tried nes power brick and it works just noise and crappy picture. the cart slot wont read Genesis carts
Friday is not Friday without fix it Friday! 🛠
Thanks! It’s good to be back making videos
TGIFIF!
Great one, nice to see that you're back I've been keeping a look out for any new videos the last few weeks.
I just did this mod to my Japanese Famicom a few weeks back. Some of the steps are different but the end goal was the same. It was pretty time consuming and for me a pretty intense mod (though I did end up buying a desolder gun for it), but all went well and I'm really happy with it.
I love the way the Famicom looks and if I was going to have a version of the NES on display I wanted it to be that even if it required more work. I also added in detachable NES cables and I'm currently finishing up making the first player controller wireless with the 8bitdo controller mod... just waiting on a part from China to wrap it up.
Awesome, glad that you installed this on your Famicom! It’s such a huge improvement from the original system
Really clean job on making that hole for the multi-out, and overall an awesome mod as always! Yeah taking those PPUs out is a real pain especially around those 4 EXT pins where that huge ground plane is, but you make it look easy!
Thanks! Yes those 4 EXT pins is always the worst part, but with its a little easier with the methods I used in the video
@@LIRetroGaming What're you using for solder? The NES is old enough that the original is tin/lead-but some people who work on electronics of this age swear by bismuth low-temp solder during the desoldering phase. That seems like an added expense to me-the NES needs a good iron for PPU desoldering, but it's pretty hardy by comparison to say some of the Tandy PCBs of the era.
glad that you are back. great video.
I love watching these types of videos. I like to projects like these when I have the time and money. I learned how to solder by watching RUclips videos like this on your channel.
That’s awesome, that’s a big reason why I make these videos. I hope that they can help people get into this hobby and repair and modify systems
glad you're back. these videos are my favorite thing on youtube
I really appreciate that. Thanks so much!
Excellent video!
Thumbs up for reflowing the solder on the pins after snipping off the top! So many people miss that step.
BTW, You're probably aware of this already, but I find applying flux to the top (component) side on the pins of through hole parts like that PPU helps the desoldering gun. I think it just helps break up any oxide layer that wasn't reached by adding the additional solder to the underside. Particularly useful if the solder is a bit more "grungey" than normal. (I learned the technique working on systems with battery or capacitor damage)
Thanks, glad you enjoyed the video! I do sometimes apply flux like how you are describing and it does make a difference
Super clean, I really enjoyed the video! ✍️💨 👌
Thanks, glad that you enjoyed it!
Thank you so much for the video!! I have a front loader with this RGB kit, but have been using that horrible scart cable that comes with it. I tried many times converting the kit to the multi out port, with no luck. Would get sound only and no picture. The cable with the kit, doesn't use the same sync as the multi out, when it comes off the RBG board. Once seeing how you wired it, switching just that one wire, everything works great!! I even have the S Video connection working which looks great on an old, flat screen CRT!!
Long time since a fix it Friday , glad my itch got scratch , keep up the good work
Thanks, it’s good to be back!
This was awesome, welcome back!
Thanks, much appreciated! It was good to rest and take a break, but I do miss making videos
I did one of these a few months ago. You make it look so easy. I'm pretty sure I just barely got it to work, given that I'm such a novice. The only difference is that I put the pallete selector under the cartridge lid so it at least was out of the way. I used a 4 way switch so I could use the original composite if I ever needed to and didn't have a snes composite cable.
That’s a cool place to put the switch. Very convenient since it’s in the front
Great video as always! I recently opened up my ntsc rgb-modded nes to add expansion audio and one of these multi-outs. Ran into some issues, and haven't had the time to get back to it. My question is, do I need to bypass/short some of the components on the nesrgb on the r, g and b lines for it to work properly, or is this not necessary? I don't get any video from it😔 I'm using a ntsc retrogamingcables snes scart cable. I tried to find any mention of this in your video, so my apologies if I missed it and you actually mentioned it in the video after all✌
No, you should not need to short anything on the RGB lines. It’s hard to diagnose without looking at it but you should just be able to transfer the wires over from one connector to the other
Allright, I've saved the pinout you provided and I'll go over my wires again👌 Thanks man!😊
Hi! Nice work!
I've a question: I can use my RGB from SNES or Game Cube, with this mod? Or only works with a specific cable?
Thanks!
Yes that cable will also work with this mod!
Great video! Is there a reason why the 2 S-video pins are left out from the Multi-out (Luma & Chroma)? This was also the case on Voultars videos, and a few others I could found. I'm assuming it is is still possible to wire those up too with the extra 2 wires to get that capability, but it was left out since S-video is rarely used, is that correct?
That’s exactly right, I could have added svideo but I chose not to because most people that want this mod are only planning to use RGB or component. Glad that you enjoyed the video!
@@LIRetroGaming Thanks a lot! I chose to wire up the additional Luma-Chroma-pins, and my S-video Multi-out cables work perfectly.
After researching a bit, it seems there is another benefit of wiring up Luma in particular. It seems there are 3 major variants of RGB SCART cables: csync, sync on composite and sync on luma. Not wiring up Luma will remove compatibility with the sync on luma RGB, which seems to be common on SNES PAL SCART RGB cables. Sync on composite seems to be the most common one overall (also used by the HD Retrovision cables), but for the cheaper unshielded cables, it seems modding the cables to use csync alternatively sync on luma is recommended, for reducing video artifacts, like checkerboard patterns in backgrounds which is common when using sync on composite. I had a checkerboard pattern on one of my cheap unshielded SNES PAL RGB-cables, and after modding it to use sync on luma, it worked perfectly.
Sources:
www.retrorgb.com/sync.html
www.retrorgb.com/snescsync.html
Is this an alternative to the Triple Bypass upgrade or is one option better? Awesome videos too!!
Triple bypass is for a Sega Genesis, bypass audio, video, and stereo sound to the genesis 2 9 pin mini din. This video is Tim Worthington’s NESRGB board.
Yes, James is correct. Both are very excellent modifications but for completely different systems
This isn't a mod I would do (mainly because I don't currently have a NES), but, as always, I really enjoy watching you do them and hearing you talk about them! The more I see your hot air station the more I want to get one. Are there any good PSVita mods out there you would recommend?
Yes the hot air station really makes a difference and can make these installations a lot easier. I don’t know of any real hardware mods for the vita, only soft mods that enable homebrew
14:50 Get this man a dremel tool!
Yeah I really should get one lol
I like the Famicom Toploader. I have the Rad2X and the Everdrive N8 Pro.
Sorry for the question, but what are the gauges of those color cables you used for the mod?
I ordered a 30AWG color spool, but I believe this are to frail and not "strong enough" for this kind of mod.
I used 28 gauge copper stranded wire for this install
Is there a reason you didn't use header pins when you were connecting the multi out and pallet switch to the board or is it just personal preference?
Just personal preference
Can you point me to the nibbler cutting tool and the filer you used around ~14:20-15:44 to make the multi-out hole so nice and neat?
I have a link for the flush cutter here, but I don’t have one for the file. I picked up a file set at Home Depot. Here’s the flush cutters: www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwibypD3wMD2AhXKUHIKHULJBY8YABAJGgJxdQ&sig=AOD64_3zVf256Rl1fXqSZqx1KF4ro7RXcw&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjtm4X3wMD2AhUglIkEHRNsCLYQwg96BAgBEAo&adurl=
Awesome job but I wish you spent more time showing the audio differences, I was hoping to at least hear the US audio of Castlevania VS the Japanese version.
Sorry for that!
Hello I have a question If I'm doing this same mod with the NesRGB v3 do I need to install a Voltage regulator if I want to use everdrives so it doesn't get to hot or should I be ok? Thank you very much and I love your content :) take care
Thanks, glad that you enjoyed the video! No, the original voltage regulator is just fine to use with this mod and an everdrive
@@LIRetroGaming Tysm your the best :)
I have a cheap iron, cheap de soldering iron, etc. Am I able to properly install this or do I need to upgrade? Thanks. Love the instruction.
The iron can be cheap, just as long as it is temperature controlled. The desoldering iron probably should be something good like a Hakko fr301. Do you have experience with removing chips? Because that’s probably the most important thing when going into the NESRGB installation. Definitely get practice with that before you attempt it
If anyone is thinking about getting this mod done, it is the best thing you can do to your NES or Famicom. It makes a huge difference. I have found that the laserbear multi out is a bit of a snug fit on my Sharp Twin. But the picture you get with hd retrovision cables is immaculate. I had no idea how horrible composite was until the mod was done. I did see a video years ago where someone added an expansion audio mixer to the nes with a mixer knob, and one if those expansion audio boards that plug into the port in the bottom. Thought it was a pretty cool mod. Is there a way to get rid of having to push the cart down into the nes that is not the Blinking Light Win mod? That product has not been available for a while now. My NES has a hard time reading games if I don't have the game genie hooked up. I'd rather not have to rely on a game genie for my carts to work right lol. Not sure if the TW Rgb boards are available anymore either. Last time I checked, they were all out.
Unfortunately no other company is making a product like blinking light win, but hopefully that changes. But at least the NESRGB is regularly in stock!
@@LIRetroGaming nice video! BLW has had some serious problems with the company that they contracted to make the BLWs, but they are actively searching for a replacement, so hopefully we will see something soon.
Nice video , however you should in a dremel type tool so you can make those square holes far easier and faster.
Yes, that’s definitely some thing I need
Wondering why you didn’t use any flux when desoldering or re-soldering in the 40pin? I’m just getting into soldering in general and thought it was necessary. Thanks for the vids!!
That’s a very good question. Occasionally I will use flux when I’m doing the PPU removal but I rarely ever need it. I use flux a lot when I’m soldering in new components, but much less when I’m trying to remove a component
flux isn't all that necessary for desoldering with a gun, flux helps the solder flow nicely and get a good solid bond, but that isn't something you need for desoldering. For the re-soldering, the vast majority of solder on the market has solid flux in the center of the wire that melts when you use the iron, and that flux is sufficient for basic stuff like soldering through hole pins as long as you work quickly. It will burn off if you take too long and it won't work for everything, but for this application it is enough
Oohh que bella transformación de audio y video
Nice mode but why not use a push button switch that looks better than the switch you use. I feel like if your going to go through this trouble to make the multiout look nice you might as well make the switch look nice too.
It would have to be a three way push button or something since there are three options to toggle for the palette switch
This RGB mod outputs at 240p or 480p?
240p. From there you can send it to a scaler that can output the video signal in a higher resolution
Fantastic video! Can you share links to the wires you use as well as the solder? Cheers!
Sure thing, here’s one that I order fairly regularly Eowpower 16.5Ft/5M 20Pin Rainbow Color Flat Ribbon Cable IDC Wire Cable www.amazon.com/dp/B01NC2L2WB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_W6Y6WCZ0N49PH14B2PS1
@@LIRetroGaming Thank you! And solder?
Hello, what rgb cable are you using to get rgb signal out? does this work with snes rgb cable? can I use my ossc to scale this?
I am using an SNESRGB cable from insurrection industries. You can also use HD retrovision component cables. I was connecting it to the OSSC so that will certainly work
Does the multi out double the mono audio to make it stereo? Or how does that work?
It does dual mono, so the same mono sound goes to the left and right speaker
@@LIRetroGaming Thanks. I plan on modding my NES soon.
Fun video! I'm assuming you've seen Voultar's little expansion audio board. You ever thought about getting a few of those and giving them a whirl?
Yeah those are great and I have installed them before. At some point I’ll definitely use them in another video
@@LIRetroGaming It's just so neat, tidy and cute. 😂
Should try and do voultars way of doing the palette switch too
Have you found there is a low amount of buzz when the game is otherwise silent? I notice it a lot on SMB3 before I start the game. I've attempted troubleshooting, ensuring everything is connected correctly, upgrading the 5v regulator, disconnecting the original audio circuit, nothing really seems to have effected it
A lot of possibilities can cause that. What scart or component cables are you using? You can also try shielded wires for the audio connections
@@LIRetroGaming yeah I should have mentioned, I'm using the mini din supplied with the kit. However I route the audio from the NESRGB to 2 RCA jacks. I use shielded coax (Belden 1694a) to route the audio. I feel like I've narrowed it down to either noise being picked up in the NESRGB itself, the outpost just having noise from the CPU, or potentially the power brick. I have a triad coming to test that.
I was really more asking to see if there's just always a low level of background noise and I'm just trying to squeeze too much from it.
thanks so much!
Is it possible to customize the available palettes, even if it requires some desoldering and using a programmer?
Yes it is possible to program new palettes on this modification
Does anyone have a source for replacement stickers for the NES AV and RF out?
I certainly hope that these exist too
@@LIRetroGaming they do exist, I bought some from a member on nintendoage years ago
All that's left to do with a toaster like this to turn it into a perfect 8 bit console is come up with a better solution to the toaster mechanism. I guess some people might want the a stereo separation mod as well, but I'm not convinced that's worth it.
There is a company making a product called blinking light win that addresses the problems with the toaster mechanism
@@LIRetroGaming I know it exists, but I've never managed to find ArcadeWorks having them in stock, unfortunately.
Anyone who can install the RGB mod (so … not me without some better hardware than my Mk. I optical sensors) could produce a Blinking Light Win by soldering a couple 72 pin card edges to a really simple PCB, 3D printing a cart tray, and doing a CIC disable switch mod.
But I can't do that soldering myself (I need some better magnifying tools or to get someone else to do it), and I'd rather finance ArcadeWorks doing other cool things in the future.
I have basically the same install except i'm using the qsb and ribbon cable to the multi-out. Having an issue getting RGB scart cables to work, no issues with an HDR SNES cable. I've tried a csync and luma sync snes scart cables with no luck. Any ideas what I should try? Thanks!
That’s an interesting problem, and I have never tried using a QSB to install this before. The fact that HDR cables work means that composite video, RGB are all there and working. Did you use a multimeter to test continuity between the luma pin on the multiout to the NESRGB board? I would also try the same thing for the csync pin
Another question, what jumpers did you close? I think you only need to close jumpers J3 and J5
@@LIRetroGaming Luma was my hunch, thanks I'll check that. That or jumpers, so I'll double check that too. Do you have a discord channel?
@@LIRetroGaming so J3 is open because I'm using the external VR, I've got J5 shorted for ntsc luma freq and also J8 for 75 ohm sync. Y and V pins on the rgb board have continuity with the qsb pins. So, that's got to leave the scart cable as the culprit no? Would I see anything with no luma?
I have 1st gen Sega Genesis and the power brick is dead so I tried nes power brick and it works just noise and crappy picture. the cart slot wont read Genesis carts
An NES power supply is dangerous to use on a genesis. Definitely don’t do that
Is there a board that is cheaper (and that I can order) that would just give me s-video and composite in a SNES multiout?
I don’t think so. But you could also use this with component cables as well
@@LIRetroGaming Thanks!
Ever try a dremel for smoothign the edges of your hole? Too dusty?
Personally I find it very easy to slip up with the drama. This might be slower but it’s way more precise
@@LIRetroGaming very cool, i use an xacto knife myself
Your retro channel 🖐️
Good job!
Thanks man! Glad that you enjoyed it
amazing
ugh... still cutting into original NES shells in 2022 😫
Yeah like I said in the video, I hate doing it as well. There are no cut options and I have reviewed that on my channel in the past
@@LIRetroGaming Yeah, but even if you want a snes style multi-out, there are better no-cut solutions for the palette switch.
@@atsz. The results of this board are great but its design is super clunky.
What no switchless pallet swap?
Personally I’m not really that interested in it. I almost barely ever change the palettes
@@LIRetroGaming I can never remember the key combination.
Now you need a Rad2X.
Why is this mod so expensive to buy?
Parts are expensive and there is a global chip shortage
really great job. I followed you in twitter too.🤘😎
Thanks! It took me forever, but I just got on Twitter recently