Tools in video: This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you. Autel MS906BT scan tool: amzn.to/2Z4iaDs OTC 3636 Test Light: amzn.to/31G9Hbi The Big Dog 50001 Automotive Channel Store can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/bigdog50001automotive
Hi when u said either the switch or the relay is the main relay that controls everything or just 20 Amp fuse that controls the driver door switch? Please reply thankyou.
Awesome video sir! I have been having issues with my windows for about two years now. The problem was always intermittent at first and then the passenger window failed completely. Then the driver side started doing the same thing. When the window doesn't want to function, after a period of time, I will hear a 'click' and then the window will start to function. If I notice I hear a 'click' and try to operate the window it will not work. It seems like something is just randomly switching on and off for a period of time. This is how the passenger window was acting and then just stopped working altogether. I am trying to pay close attention to your video a second time and hope it helps. I like learning anyway so I prefer to watch your video till the end. Now today I heard a loud scraping/popping noise when putting the window up and now it will only open and close aboutan inch. So now it is time to pull the panel and see what's going on. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us man. I appreciate it.
I had an issue with my wife’s 04 Accord where the LF power window suddenly stopped working. I watched your video and was totally impressed with the depth and detail that you went in to to explain the entire system using the wiring diagram. You also showed your diagnosis procedure using simple tools. As it turned out the motor was the culprit, which I dismantled, tweeked the brush springs ,and now it works like new!! I must say that you’re a very good teacher……in fact I told my wife that you could work at any college or mechanics school around. Thanks again and keep up the great job! Roy Bartz 👍
The first 10 minutes looking over the wiring diagram was (at least for me) very helpful. I don't have a Honda but just reviewing the lines of powers and grounds is universal. Having a scanner with blue tooth is way cool. The window went up and down like magic. Oh yeah, the fact that when using the passenger side window didn't show up on the scan tool would have confused me. That's where experience comes in. I enjoyed the video Dave. Thank you.
very informative video thank you. All my windows except driver side in my 4 door 2005 accord havent been working for the past few years and just yesterday the drive side finally gave out when i put the window down. Now all my windows dont work but just by watching your video im convinced I need to replace the window regulator
This is a great video I was looking for. I have a 2005 Accord coup 2.4 and my both windows acting up on me. I haven't found any system how they work or actually don't work, sometimes they do work well, then they don't. Sometimes I hear clicking sound from the switches (even on pass.side) and sometimes I don't. Sometimes one window is dead but the other works... I'll try to use your know how about the wiring to track it down, but my problem is - it works and it doesn't, like a bad wire connection or something like that. I tried to reset the control unit also. No success. I used a foxwell scantool and one interesting is, when you push the switch let's say DOWN the value in the scantool says UP, but the window goes down, when you push UP, scantool says UP. Anyways, thanks for your time, cannot imagine a better lesson to these honda's windows problems 👍
@@oompalee267 I replaced the window unit on driver side, it was working for couple of weeks and then back to the previous stage. There must be something with the wiring, probably corroded on the way to the ECU, or exposed to another wire or chassis (maybe in A pillar where it goes from the door into the interior of the car). I have no time to track it down.
My passenger side window controls stopped working suddenly, and I found your videos. I saw that there was a pushbutton switch that deactivated the passenger controls, and I must have hit it accidentally. That proved to be the only problem. :) Thanks!
So helpful im having the exact problem in the same car model the curious this is that the leather on the steering wheel and the one next to the window switches on my car is also lifting up Thanks for the video was really helpful
Dave excellant video from beginning to end. Thanks for the wiring diagram review. Very informative thanks. Yes I did make a test light from Eric O's video and my launch will operate the Windows but it's nice to understand how it reads the data. Like I said fantastic video and time for some fluid out of that magic cup. You know which won I'm talking about. 👍👍👍
Well dang. "The TSB and Wiring Diagrams have been permanently removed. We are sorry for the inconvenience." Good thing I saved a full shop manual when I found it a while back. The giant sucking sound you hear is intellegence becoming a commodity...and rare.
@@BigDog50001 Hello Sr have a question about the master switch. My problem start normal stress day , travel to dinner and after found parking close the window noooo 😥 no work go back apt and pray. Start for study how this works found thermal switch bad, eBay used good God thanks . How I reset the switch. Thanks.
I’ve watched tons of videos on trying to diagnose the problem with my passenger window not working. After watching this I wish it was my driver side not working!! What would you suggest my next step to do as I’ve replaced the master switch, regulator/motor, fuses and I am getting power to passenger switch. I’m all out of options smh.
BBB Industries has severely cut the number of diagrams they have now. They got hit with DoS attacks and pulled the database from revbase. There is nowhere near as much as there used to be. It's sad. I used it all the time.
Test light is your friend in that situation. I would use a test light to trace back where I was losing power or ground. If either is missing (or not good enough) then the window will not work.
(2009 4-door Civic) Over the last 4 years, each of my 3 passenger windows has gradually developed a failure to roll UP from the driver control switches (only). One-by-one, over those years they individually each started to stutter over several weeks and eventually completely failed to roll up from the driver door controls. All windows DO function perfectly up/down from their respective local door switches. They also roll down perfectly well from the driver control switches. I have been though several of your videos and can't find the appropriate one for my issue. Please direct me. Thanks !
Good Day, Sir, i have 2006 honda accord 2.4 all window buttons are not working fron and rear all four not working only clicking sound there, can you suggest i have to check fuse from 20 to 25? Kind Regards
the door and steering wheel hasn't been taking apart it just starts peeling away from the trim. a lot of cars do that. I've seen brand new Chargers do the same thing even worse
Hello sir I have honda pilot both of my rear passenger window not working even if I use the driver power switch but I hear is clicking i check the rear passenger window relay its good and the connection i have power and ground when I check both of the fuse using my test light and doesn't light up no power and I have ground on both switches I dont know why both fuses has no power. Can u guide me what to test next?
Great video I have the same exact car with a very similar problem. I have changed the regulator on the driver's side and powdered the window up and when it got to the top it stopped and now every time I press the button to let the window down it blows the number 27 fuse and I don't have a clue what the problem is.
Things I look at for blown fuses, either the component (window motor in this case) pulling too many amps or a wire is shorted to ground. If it wasn't blowing fuses before I would double check work or it is possibly a bad new motor. Thanks for the comment!
I tried some of the things that you are saying and I finally found the problem and it was something that I really didn't think about. The new regulator I brought was defective I replaced it with another one and problem solved. Great video though it was very helpful I subscribed to you channel looking forward to future videos.
Depends on whether or not the problems started at exactly the same time, they may or may not be related. Here is a video where I troubleshoot a Civic similar to your 2011: ruclips.net/video/-aJjB0VPAEk/видео.html
please help me so if you don’t have power to the control module the other windows want work I have a 07 Honda Accord went to let my windows down this morning and the only window that works is my driver I checked fuse they were good I’m think the driver door control switch has went bad because all three windows quit at same time thank you for you time! And if you have any idea please let me know.
I followed everything in the video and my window still doesn't work. As soon as I change the window motor and turns on the ignition, the window went down and will not go up.
What would be the problem if i always have power in the down position on the passenger window even if im not pressing neither switch its acting like its pressed in the down position already replaced passenger switch but im still to replace the driver side switch, how would i go about testing if the main switch is the problem?
Dave, I have been looking for these videos for the past 6 months. Thanks much. This is the only video in youtube that explain B network window switch testing available. There are few from scanner danner but not the extent you went on this video, this become as bible. Thanks again. I like to donate some dollar to your effort, let me know if you have paypal, will do it. I have another request, how do i diagnose bad power steering pump vs power steering rack. Assuming there is no leak on steering rack. also some Honda 's that i diagnosed it is very tight to steer the car, dont know whether to replace pump or rack and there is no leak on rack. Any tips will be helpful.
Thank you, I appreciate the comment! I have an address listed in the description if you want to send me anything but I don't ask for money and do not have electronic accounts for that. As for P/S, in general a P/S pressure tester and some Honda adapters are usually needed to pinpoint a hard steering problem. It could be a plugged/damaged line, bad pump or bad rack so it's not something I could give you an answer for in a comment unfortunately.
@@BigDog50001 thanks dave, i sent 20 dollar thru paypal . it asked me first and last name, I just put bigdog5001 and put ur email address bigdog50001@gmail.com . if u have not received it , do pls let me know. Regarding power steering, what are steps u recommend me to isolate rack vs pump. pls advise.. how do u diagnose and eliminate one vs other.
Do you have a solution to the following issue? '04 Accord Sedan Power window switch was working before I replaced it with a different USED power window switch (Needed the new wood grain plastic piece, the old one's plastic screw insert/plastic tabs broke) the new used one came with the switches attached so I just put it in & it does work overall, however the passenger window switch rolls the passenger side window up & down but you have to keep holding the switch in order to do so otherwise if I press down it will start going down but if I let go it will just roll back up (Problem.#1, Note: The Driver side switch rolls the Passenger side window up & down just fine).Does the passenger side power window switch also have to be re-prpgrammed? Problem #2 With the new USED Power window switch sometimes I will hear a clicking slight sound for the Driver side Power window like the sound when you would press the window button up but the window is already up (But you're not pressing any buttons) & if you try to roll the Driver's side window down while it's making this clicking type sound it won't respond/work, if you wait about 3 seconds after the clicking sound stops then it will roll down & up just fine. (Note: During the clicking sound even though the Driver window won't roll down, all the other windows will operate via the Driver window control, including the power mirrors). What do you think could be causing Problems #1 & #2? I could try putting the Original Driver side Power window switch back on the new Wood grain plastic cover, if I do should I also put the original power mirror remote back on as well or does that not matter? (The reason why I'm asking first instead of just putting the original controls on the new wood grain plastic piece is I'm concerned I may break another Plastic clip or damage the plastic screw inserts again removing it & would have to order another wood grain plastic piece again). Hopefully there is a simple solution for Problems #1 & #2? Thank You
The window switch (master switch) on driver's side has a control unit in it. Honda master switches are finicky, If the new (used) one is not the correct part (different trim lines use different master switches) or it is an aftermarket unit there can be issues like you describe. Clicking sounds sometimes mean the control unit has learned the wrong position of the window and It is possible it just needs to be reset. Breaking plastic on those trim pieces is a real concern, the wood look ones are very brittle. Original JB Weld works pretty good on fixing plastic pieces in areas that aren't going to be seen.
@@BigDog50001 Do you think I should put the old switch back in the new wood grain plastic? Also does it matter if I leave the mirror remote in there or should I put the original mirror remote back as well?
I have a problem, my car is: Honda Accord ex 2007, the control of the windows damaged the switch to turn off the raising and lowering of the passenger and rear windows. I bought one in a junker of cars of the same model and year. Everything works fine, When I go to lock the car with the remote control and activate the alarm it does not activate anything, it does not even open the trunk. I returned I put the damaged one and it activated everything well. I asked the Honda and they told me that you have to program the new control and they charge $ 94.00 to program it and I don't have that money to save, could you help me do it myself if you can?
This guy feels he is in a classroom. All I needed to know is what’s wrong with my window. He is giving a whole class on the widow electrical and not addressing the issue
And this guy feels he can watch a short video that magically tells him how to fix his window issue. This video is an example of how you diagnose a Honda window problem, there are many things that can effect proper system operation. If you don't want to learn and only want to fire a part at a symptom then I am sure you will find other channels that are more to your learning curve. Good luck.
My 2009 Honda CR-V’s electrical system shorts out for less than a second causing the dashboard lights to turn on as it does momentarily upon starting my vehicle. At the same time the headlights and rear lights all turn off for the same one second period. I noticed this only happens when the engine fan comes on. Can you offer an opinion as to what the problem might be? Alternator, a belt, battery, fuse? I appreciate your videos and look forward to seeing more of them.
If the lights are just briefly dimming or flickering when an additional electric load is placed on electrical system, that is pretty normal for a Honda. If they go completely out then there is a voltage drop issue that would need troubleshooting. I can't see what your vehicle is doing so anything I say is a guess but here is a bit of background. Hondas use an Electrical Load Detector (ELD) to sense the electric load being placed on the system. The ELD sends info to the Engine Control Module (ECM) which controls the alternator output. Most Honda alternators have a high and low output and the ECM uses the ELD info to control the high and low output on the alternator. If a high electric load (like cooling fans) is placed on the system when the alternator output is commanded low (or the alternator is commanded high but is not putting out enough voltage), that can create the potential for voltage drop issues especially if the battery is weak. If there is indeed an issue, I suspect it might be with either the battery/alternator/ELD/wiring or any combination of those. Of course it would need proper troubleshooting to determine what the issue is, but a weak battery is an easy place to start.
Urgent help: I have 2006 Acura TSX. The window switches on all the doors stopped working and don’t even light up. I know I messed up some electrical component because when I use my oem key and hold the unlock button, the windows roll down. There is no power in the switches, can you help??
Hi, great video. I hope you can answer my question on a similar topic. My 2005 accord exl , 4 door, 4cyl drivers window has been acting goofy lately and I'm afraid that one day it will not go up for me. I have to, on occasion, keep lifting the up button repeatedly to get the window to go up. So I decided to source out a new switch on Ebay. I found listed master switch's at reasonable prices but some of had notes that if the key fob on my car had a panic button these switch's would not work for me. The OEM switch is very expensive and the recommended aftermarket by Dorman is expensive also. My question is, "Can you tell me why the cheaper switch will not work because of the panic button".
Those switches won’t work because they are for different models/trims and they are either wired different or the control module inside is programmed differently. I try to only use Honda switches due to the control module inside, aftermarket ones can have issues.
I have the exact car a 2003 Honda accord lx coupe 3.0 6 cylinder automatic but neither my power windows not locks work and I have only replaced fuses under the steering wheel can you show me where the relay is? Thanks in advance
I would check all fuses in the DASH and HOOD fuse boxes. Windows and locks are two different systems, so I would look at what they have in common (under dash fuse box/MICU unit and the switches come to mind). I would definitely make sure the driver's side switches are plugged in properly (especially if work was done on the door recently). It will probably need some troubleshooting.
Hi there update on my vehicle so I just replaced the master control switch panel straight from the dealership ... now my passenger window goes up and down beautiful but my locks and my driver goes up or down any recommendations ...? Maybe I need to reset the window switches somehow?
Hey, not sure if this comment will go missed or not but my girlfriends car windows have been acting up for months now. (Honda Accord 2004)Her two back windows have lost all control completely and are stuck in the cracked position. After multiple attempts at forcefully pushing them up they don’t stay up, with no response from the driver control panel either. Shortly after the passenger window went, the driver window will work then won’t at times. I’ve been trying to diagnose what the problem is with RUclips videos but still have no clue what the deal is. Any response would be appreciated
I have a 2008 civic 4 door the drivers side window will not go down. However when I hit the button to lower it I hear the motor moving something down but the window stays up. When I raise the button I hear it running and it hits the window and pushes it with pressure but it’s all the way up already. This window works without issue 12 hours before this. Any help would be appreciated thank you
What you are describing sounds like a problem with the cable portion of the window regulator, and it most likely needs to be replaced if that is the case. I would leave it with pressure in the up position (like you described) and would not try and lower it with the button, the window may fall down if left that way. You can see me replacing a window regulator for a Civic in this video: ruclips.net/video/djdjsmJHANY/видео.html
My 2004 accord coupe had the same issue. i did take the door apart a couple of days before to fix my door lock actuator and a 2 days later it randomly stopped working after putting it down (didnt go up). I got a new regualtor from the wreckers but it didnt work. I tested the pins on the motor connector like you did in the video and im getting +12v and -12v when i put the window up and down respectively. I put a new switch in it and its not the switch either. Do you think i just got a bad regulator from the wreckers and should buy a new one?
There is a good chance the new (old) regulator is bad. I usually will test it by applying power and ground directly to the motor. I always use a fused jumper wire for safety when I do this or I use a PowerProbe to test it (which has a fuse built into it).
Hi. I've got an issue with a Civic 2008 plate. All power windows don't work from either the drivers door switch panel or from the switches on all doors. I've tracked it down to the MICU and I was wondering if the Power window relay is internal or external of the MCU. I can't find any diagrams to show where it is. It's a 2.2 diesel model.
On most Hondas the window relays are replaceable and are usually in the under DASH fuse box. On most of those generation Civics it is located on the very top left of the fuse box. On these Civics, usually the MICU only controls the ground on the control side of the window relay (as a key off timer).
@@BigDog50001 Thank you very much for this info!!! You mean the black one? I did read that the original Omron power relays were swapped for Mitsuba ones...part number 39794-SDA-A05. Do you know if this is true or not? Have you heard of the issue with the A?C relays too?
Sounds like an issue with the window regulator. Some have a cable style regulator (most newer Hondas have this) and some have a scissor style regulator. Some regulators can be replaced separately, but for many vehicles the motor comes with the new regulator.
So, according to your diagram, there _are_ relays in the front passenger side window switch. I hear clicking, sometimes at a stoplight it just "clicks". And the window will not go down. Or, it will not go down until I pull over and slam the passenger door. But there is a "clicking" coming from that passenger side switch area. The window can be operated from the master or passenger switch, when it does work. So is it the relay, the "home/ auto-up" feature needs resetting on the module or the switch. This is a problem that Honda has had for many, many years with their windows, their radio back-lighting going out, and LED back-lighting on the speedometer. There are countless forums on this window problem, and people are begging for answers. Some are even asking for help to convert this motorized debacle into roll-up windows. Unreal. And wait for the Tesla owners 6 years down the road. 😅 😂 🤣
Great video! I'm having trouble diagnosing the issue with my accord (same year coupe).....if the driver's window does NOT go down when you hold the unlock button on the key FOB, could it still be a bad window switch?
Most shops start with an hour diagnostic fee which can range from $75-$150 depending on where you live. Some will waive the fee if you pay for the part and install to fix it.
I bought an Accord today were the drivers window doesn't work and the passenger window goes up and down slowly. The good is the owner reduced the price by 2500 lower than the same car was selling for everywhere else in my area. For that I could put stainless armored plate in place of the windows. lol Just kidding.
How good are you at removing the inner door panels? Pretty easy if you go slow. The "regulator" has a cable attached to the motor. As rain and the elements get in the area of that cable, it causes corrosion and a little rust. Much like a brake cable or a gear shifter cable on a bicycle that never gets lubed. I took all of my motor/ regulators out and lubed them _thoroughly_ with a silicone spray. I mean soaked them. They work great now.
Tools in video:
This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you.
Autel MS906BT scan tool: amzn.to/2Z4iaDs
OTC 3636 Test Light: amzn.to/31G9Hbi
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Hi when u said either the switch or the relay is the main relay that controls everything or just 20 Amp fuse that controls the driver door switch? Please reply thankyou.
Awesome video sir! I have been having issues with my windows for about two years now. The problem was always intermittent at first and then the passenger window failed completely. Then the driver side started doing the same thing.
When the window doesn't want to function, after a period of time, I will hear a 'click' and then the window will start to function. If I notice I hear a 'click' and try to operate the window it will not work. It seems like something is just randomly switching on and off for a period of time. This is how the passenger window was acting and then just stopped working altogether. I am trying to pay close attention to your video a second time and hope it helps. I like learning anyway so I prefer to watch your video till the end.
Now today I heard a loud scraping/popping noise when putting the window up and now it will only open and close aboutan inch. So now it is time to pull the panel and see what's going on. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us man. I appreciate it.
I had an issue with my wife’s 04 Accord where the LF power window suddenly stopped working. I watched your video and was totally impressed with the depth and detail that you went in to to explain the entire system using the wiring diagram. You also showed your diagnosis procedure using simple tools. As it turned out the motor was the culprit, which I dismantled, tweeked the brush springs ,and now it works like new!! I must say that you’re a very good teacher……in fact I told my wife that you could work at any college or mechanics school around. Thanks again and keep up the great job! Roy Bartz 👍
Thank you, I appreciate the comment!
You have no idea how helpful this video was for me as a woman! I'm a 64 year old do it yourself gal and this was perfection! Thank you!
The first 10 minutes looking over the wiring diagram was (at least for me) very helpful. I don't have a Honda but just reviewing the lines of powers and grounds is universal. Having a scanner with blue tooth is way cool. The window went up and down like magic. Oh yeah, the fact that when using the passenger side window didn't show up on the scan tool would have confused me. That's where experience comes in. I enjoyed the video Dave. Thank you.
The wiring diagram took longer than I wanted but I felt it was necessary, thanks for the comment!
very informative video thank you. All my windows except driver side in my 4 door 2005 accord havent been working for the past few years and just yesterday the drive side finally gave out when i put the window down. Now all my windows dont work but just by watching your video im convinced I need to replace the window regulator
I have the same problem as you. Only drivers window works. Did you figure out the problem? Thank you.
Did you figure out the problem?
Simply Awesome Technically one of the best explained with every details possible made me appreciate you writing this comment
I appreciate the comment, thank you!
This is a great video I was looking for. I have a 2005 Accord coup 2.4 and my both windows acting up on me. I haven't found any system how they work or actually don't work, sometimes they do work well, then they don't. Sometimes I hear clicking sound from the switches (even on pass.side) and sometimes I don't. Sometimes one window is dead but the other works... I'll try to use your know how about the wiring to track it down, but my problem is - it works and it doesn't, like a bad wire connection or something like that. I tried to reset the control unit also. No success. I used a foxwell scantool and one interesting is, when you push the switch let's say DOWN the value in the scantool says UP, but the window goes down, when you push UP, scantool says UP. Anyways, thanks for your time, cannot imagine a better lesson to these honda's windows problems 👍
I have the same issue
@@oompalee267 I replaced the window unit on driver side, it was working for couple of weeks and then back to the previous stage. There must be something with the wiring, probably corroded on the way to the ECU, or exposed to another wire or chassis (maybe in A pillar where it goes from the door into the interior of the car). I have no time to track it down.
My passenger side window controls stopped working suddenly, and I found your videos. I saw that there was a pushbutton switch that deactivated the passenger controls, and I must have hit it accidentally. That proved to be the only problem. :) Thanks!
Ha, I just saw your comment on my other video and answered it, glad you got it straightened out!
Merry Christmas. Thank you for the best videos on RUclips.
Thank you, I appreciate the comment! Merry Christmas to you too!
Best troubleshooting video. It shows the whole system not just how to replace the motor. Great job. Thanks.
I appreciate the comment, thank you!
So helpful im having the exact problem in the same car model the curious this is that the leather on the steering wheel and the one next to the window switches on my car is also lifting up
Thanks for the video was really helpful
Dave excellant video from beginning to end. Thanks for the wiring diagram review. Very informative thanks. Yes I did make a test light from Eric O's video and my launch will operate the Windows but it's nice to understand how it reads the data. Like I said fantastic video and time for some fluid out of that magic cup. You know which won I'm talking about. 👍👍👍
Thank you Arthur! I always appreciate your comments!
This is the best tech video I've ever seen.
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
Very impressed and thankful for this great explanation 🙏
Great diagnostic process all the way through.
Thank you, I appreciate the comment!
Thank you Dave. Good job. I appreciate your videos. Have a blessed and safe week.
Thank you!
Deeply thanks for your intensive explanation and this great video
Thank you!
I have the same exact problem (with driver's side window only, not opening, others are fine)
and same model and year.
Still working on it.
You the man bro. Thank you I fixed my window 🎉
I was hoping mine wasn’t the regulator but it is lol went to the junk yard and got a whole other switch 😂 thank you my guy for this detailed video!
I love it when it's a Honda accord vid 😁
lol, thanks for the comment!
Great job, fantastic video!
Great explanation Dave. Keep up the good work!
I always appreciate the support from a fellow RUclipsr Mike, thanks!
Thanks for the information! Very useful! Have a Blessed day! 😊🙏🏻❤️📖🙌
Well dang.
"The TSB and Wiring Diagrams have been permanently removed. We are sorry for the inconvenience."
Good thing I saved a full shop manual when I found it a while back. The giant sucking sound you hear is intellegence becoming a commodity...and rare.
I heard that, it sucks because that was a nice resource for people to use.
Thanks you master mechanic.. technician.
Thank you, I appreciate the comment!
@@BigDog50001
Hello Sr have a question about the master switch. My problem start normal stress day , travel to dinner and after found parking close the window noooo 😥 no work go back apt and pray. Start for study how this works found thermal switch bad, eBay used good God thanks . How I reset the switch. Thanks.
The duck taped keyphob is my life rn
Great work and explanation
my driver side window isn’t working but all the other windows are working what is the issue ?
I’ve watched tons of videos on trying to diagnose the problem with my passenger window not working. After watching this I wish it was my driver side not working!! What would you suggest my next step to do as I’ve replaced the master switch, regulator/motor, fuses and I am getting power to passenger switch. I’m all out of options smh.
BBB Industries has severely cut the number of diagrams they have now. They got hit with DoS attacks and pulled the database from revbase. There is nowhere near as much as there used to be. It's sad. I used it all the time.
I did not realize that, thanks for the update!
In case no one has mentioned it, BBB no longer offers free wiring diagrams (6/12/24)
So I’ve change the window motor and wires, checked fuses and everything good and window still don’t work, what should I do next ?
Test light is your friend in that situation. I would use a test light to trace back where I was losing power or ground. If either is missing (or not good enough) then the window will not work.
You can use those test lights to replace a fuse if you keep blowing fuses. Instead of blowing a fuse, it will just light the bulb.
Thanks for the input!
Can someone help me solving the problem...my 2006 honda Accord's passangers windows are not coming down...........what could be the issue.
I also have a 2006 Honda Accord . 3 of my windows aren’t rolling down only the drivers one rolls down. Did you ever figure out what was wrong??
My window works once In a while. Wonder if it’s just the window regulator
Fixed thank you
👍
None of my power windows work. Replaced the relay and all the fuses. Wondering if it could be fuse 23 under the hood?
Where do I go to find that machine?! Or buy one? I've got the same issue, and maybe that'll fix it?!
My passenger side window on 06 accord doesn't work but I can hear the motor when try to roll up
Sounds like the cable that is part of the window regulator assembly might be damaged.
(2009 4-door Civic) Over the last 4 years, each of my 3 passenger windows has gradually developed a failure to roll UP from the driver control switches (only). One-by-one, over those years they individually each started to stutter over several weeks and eventually completely failed to roll up from the driver door controls. All windows DO function perfectly up/down from their respective local door switches. They also roll down perfectly well from the driver control switches. I have been though several of your videos and can't find the appropriate one for my issue. Please direct me. Thanks !
Did you have to have the engnition turned over to check the wires
Good Day, Sir, i have 2006 honda accord 2.4 all window buttons are not working fron and rear all four not working only clicking sound there, can you suggest i have to check fuse from 20 to 25? Kind Regards
What if u dont have power on fuse and relay is good?
the door and steering wheel hasn't been taking apart it just starts peeling away from the trim. a lot of cars do that. I've seen brand new Chargers do the same thing even worse
Hi Sir, I hope and pray you are fine, i want to ask something from where i can get honda vehicle all electrical diagram, please suggest
Hello sir I have honda pilot both of my rear passenger window not working even if I use the driver power switch but I hear is clicking i check the rear passenger window relay its good and the connection i have power and ground when I check both of the fuse using my test light and doesn't light up no power and I have ground on both switches I dont know why both fuses has no power. Can u guide me what to test next?
Great video I have the same exact car with a very similar problem. I have changed the regulator on the driver's side and powdered the window up and when it got to the top it stopped and now every time I press the button to let the window down it blows the number 27 fuse and I don't have a clue what the problem is.
Things I look at for blown fuses, either the component (window motor in this case) pulling too many amps or a wire is shorted to ground. If it wasn't blowing fuses before I would double check work or it is possibly a bad new motor. Thanks for the comment!
I tried some of the things that you are saying and I finally found the problem and it was something that I really didn't think about. The new regulator I brought was defective I replaced it with another one and problem solved. Great video though it was very helpful I subscribed to you channel looking forward to future videos.
Very good video and circuit knowledgeable !.
Thank you for the comment!
I can't get the lock cable out.
Yeah I think I’ll just take it to the shop 😅
Power windows in my Honda Civic 2011 will not go down and my tail lights are out now to? Wondering why ?
Depends on whether or not the problems started at exactly the same time, they may or may not be related. Here is a video where I troubleshoot a Civic similar to your 2011: ruclips.net/video/-aJjB0VPAEk/видео.html
please help me so if you don’t have power to the control module the other windows want work I have a 07 Honda Accord went to let my windows down this morning and the only window that works is my driver I checked fuse they were good I’m think the driver door control switch has went bad because all three windows quit at same time thank you for you time! And if you have any idea please let me know.
I followed everything in the video and my window still doesn't work. As soon as I change the window motor and turns on the ignition, the window went down and will not go up.
where can i buy one of those connections?? My car (same car as you) window isn’t working anymore :/ probably the same thing!!!
That was great thanks to the point and very Thurrell
Thank you!
What would be the problem if i always have power in the down position on the passenger window even if im not pressing neither switch its acting like its pressed in the down position already replaced passenger switch but im still to replace the driver side switch, how would i go about testing if the main switch is the problem?
Great informative video bro
Thanks!
I need some help.I don't know if my driver window is off track.How do you smell?I have a two thousand and three honda accord
1st! Dave, Congrats on 10000 subs. I will watch video later.
Thanks Mike! I learned from you!!
Great video. Is there a video on replacing the window regulator
No, I don't have one on this model yet. Thanks for the comment!
great great video thanks so much
Thanks!
Can you made a video for 1997 camry le my power window is not working and power locks too thanks
I will see what I can do.
Dave, I have been looking for these videos for the past 6 months. Thanks much. This is the only video in youtube that explain B network window switch testing available. There are few from scanner danner but not the extent you went on this video, this become as bible. Thanks again. I like to donate some dollar to your effort, let me know if you have paypal, will do it.
I have another request, how do i diagnose bad power steering pump vs power steering rack. Assuming there is no leak on steering rack. also some Honda 's that i diagnosed it is very tight to steer the car, dont know whether to replace pump or rack and there is no leak on rack. Any tips will be helpful.
Thank you, I appreciate the comment! I have an address listed in the description if you want to send me anything but I don't ask for money and do not have electronic accounts for that.
As for P/S, in general a P/S pressure tester and some Honda adapters are usually needed to pinpoint a hard steering problem. It could be a plugged/damaged line, bad pump or bad rack so it's not something I could give you an answer for in a comment unfortunately.
@@BigDog50001 thanks dave, i sent 20 dollar thru paypal . it asked me first and last name, I just put bigdog5001 and put ur email address bigdog50001@gmail.com . if u have not received it , do pls let me know. Regarding power steering, what are steps u recommend me to isolate rack vs pump. pls advise.. how do u diagnose and eliminate one vs other.
Do you have a solution to the following issue? '04 Accord Sedan Power window switch was working before I replaced it with a different USED power window switch (Needed the new wood grain plastic piece, the old one's plastic screw insert/plastic tabs broke) the new used one came with the switches attached so I just put it in & it does work overall, however the passenger window switch rolls the passenger side window up & down but you have to keep holding the switch in order to do so otherwise if I press down it will start going down but if I let go it will just roll back up (Problem.#1, Note: The Driver side switch rolls the Passenger side window up & down just fine).Does the passenger side power window switch also have to be re-prpgrammed?
Problem #2 With the new USED Power window switch sometimes I will hear a clicking slight sound for the Driver side Power window like the sound when you would press the window button up but the window is already up (But you're not pressing any buttons) & if you try to roll the Driver's side window down while it's making this clicking type sound it won't respond/work, if you wait about 3 seconds after the clicking sound stops then it will roll down & up just fine. (Note: During the clicking sound even though the Driver window won't roll down, all the other windows will operate via the Driver window control, including the power mirrors). What do you think could be causing Problems #1 & #2?
I could try putting the Original Driver side Power window switch back on the new Wood grain plastic cover, if I do should I also put the original power mirror remote back on as well or does that not matter?
(The reason why I'm asking first instead of just putting the original controls on the new wood grain plastic piece is I'm concerned I may break another Plastic clip or damage the plastic screw inserts again removing it & would have to order another wood grain plastic piece again). Hopefully there is a simple solution for Problems #1 & #2? Thank You
The window switch (master switch) on driver's side has a control unit in it. Honda master switches are finicky, If the new (used) one is not the correct part (different trim lines use different master switches) or it is an aftermarket unit there can be issues like you describe. Clicking sounds sometimes mean the control unit has learned the wrong position of the window and It is possible it just needs to be reset. Breaking plastic on those trim pieces is a real concern, the wood look ones are very brittle. Original JB Weld works pretty good on fixing plastic pieces in areas that aren't going to be seen.
@@BigDog50001 Do you think I should put the old switch back in the new wood grain plastic? Also does it matter if I leave the mirror remote in there or should I put the original mirror remote back as well?
@@milehighbuilt6373 I would probably put the original switch back in if it was my car, being aware that clips and other plastic could break.
I have a problem, my car is: Honda Accord ex 2007, the control of the windows damaged the switch to turn off the raising and lowering of the passenger and rear windows. I bought one in a junker of cars of the same model and year. Everything works fine, When I go to lock the car with the remote control and activate the alarm it does not activate anything, it does not even open the trunk. I returned I put the damaged one and it activated everything well. I asked the Honda and they told me that you have to program the new control and they charge $ 94.00 to program it and I don't have that money to save, could you help me do it myself if you can?
BBB Industries wiring diagrams are no longer available according to them. Bummer.
Yes, that is a bummer!
This guy feels he is in a classroom. All I needed to know is what’s wrong with my window. He is giving a whole class on the widow electrical and not addressing the issue
And this guy feels he can watch a short video that magically tells him how to fix his window issue. This video is an example of how you diagnose a Honda window problem, there are many things that can effect proper system operation. If you don't want to learn and only want to fire a part at a symptom then I am sure you will find other channels that are more to your learning curve. Good luck.
@@BigDog50001 I fully appreciate your in-depth approach!
So I need a new window regulator 😥 how much is that
Can you please share the link to make the homemade device to check for power.... thx so much
The link to the video should be in the description.
very good
Thanks!
My 2009 Honda CR-V’s electrical system shorts out for less than a second causing the dashboard lights to turn on as it does momentarily upon starting my vehicle. At the same time the headlights and rear lights all turn off for the same one second period. I noticed this only happens when the engine fan comes on. Can you offer an opinion as to what the problem might be? Alternator, a belt, battery, fuse? I appreciate your videos and look forward to seeing more of them.
If the lights are just briefly dimming or flickering when an additional electric load is placed on electrical system, that is pretty normal for a Honda. If they go completely out then there is a voltage drop issue that would need troubleshooting.
I can't see what your vehicle is doing so anything I say is a guess but here is a bit of background. Hondas use an Electrical Load Detector (ELD) to sense the electric load being placed on the system. The ELD sends info to the Engine Control Module (ECM) which controls the alternator output. Most Honda alternators have a high and low output and the ECM uses the ELD info to control the high and low output on the alternator.
If a high electric load (like cooling fans) is placed on the system when the alternator output is commanded low (or the alternator is commanded high but is not putting out enough voltage), that can create the potential for voltage drop issues especially if the battery is weak.
If there is indeed an issue, I suspect it might be with either the battery/alternator/ELD/wiring or any combination of those. Of course it would need proper troubleshooting to determine what the issue is, but a weak battery is an easy place to start.
Urgent help:
I have 2006 Acura TSX. The window switches on all the doors stopped working and don’t even light up. I know I messed up some electrical component because when I use my oem key and hold the unlock button, the windows roll down.
There is no power in the switches, can you help??
You can keep it simple to start with and check the fuses, but that is probably going to need some troubleshooting done on it.
Hi, great video. I hope you can answer my question on a similar topic. My 2005 accord exl , 4 door, 4cyl drivers window has been acting goofy lately and I'm afraid that one day it will not go up for me. I have to, on occasion, keep lifting the up button repeatedly to get the window to go up. So I decided to source out a new switch on Ebay. I found listed master switch's at reasonable prices but some of had notes that if the key fob on my car had a panic button these switch's would not work for me. The OEM switch is very expensive and the recommended aftermarket by Dorman is expensive also. My question is, "Can you tell me why the cheaper switch will not work because of the panic button".
Those switches won’t work because they are for different models/trims and they are either wired different or the control module inside is programmed differently. I try to only use Honda switches due to the control module inside, aftermarket ones can have issues.
@@BigDog50001 I figured as much, thank you for your quick reply, keep up the good work.
What is the BBB link?
www.bbbind.com/
I have the exact car a 2003 Honda accord lx coupe 3.0 6 cylinder automatic but neither my power windows not locks work and I have only replaced fuses under the steering wheel can you show me where the relay is? Thanks in advance
I would check all fuses in the DASH and HOOD fuse boxes. Windows and locks are two different systems, so I would look at what they have in common (under dash fuse box/MICU unit and the switches come to mind). I would definitely make sure the driver's side switches are plugged in properly (especially if work was done on the door recently). It will probably need some troubleshooting.
Hi there update on my vehicle so I just replaced the master control switch panel straight from the dealership ... now my passenger window goes up and down beautiful but my locks and my driver goes up or down any recommendations ...? Maybe I need to reset the window switches somehow?
Hey, not sure if this comment will go missed or not but my girlfriends car windows have been acting up for months now. (Honda Accord 2004)Her two back windows have lost all control completely and are stuck in the cracked position. After multiple attempts at forcefully pushing them up they don’t stay up, with no response from the driver control panel either. Shortly after the passenger window went, the driver window will work then won’t at times. I’ve been trying to diagnose what the problem is with RUclips videos but still have no clue what the deal is. Any response would be appreciated
Great great video from beginning to end.
Thanks!
2022 Update: BBB Industries no longer provides TSB's or wiring diagrams....
DAVE, Awesome/Excellent info and very very useful video really appreciate the time and effort that took to make such informative video . cheeeers
It was a lot of extra work to film, I am glad someone appreciated it! Thanks for the comment!
BBB Industries does not offer wiring diagrams anymore.
Yep, it sucks they removed that content.
where on bbb industries did you find the wiring diagrams im not seeing them
I have not looked in a while but I have been told that BBB Industries no longer provides them for free.
I have a 2008 civic 4 door the drivers side window will not go down. However when I hit the button to lower it I hear the motor moving something down but the window stays up. When I raise the button I hear it running and it hits the window and pushes it with pressure but it’s all the way up already. This window works without issue 12 hours before this. Any help would be appreciated thank you
What you are describing sounds like a problem with the cable portion of the window regulator, and it most likely needs to be replaced if that is the case. I would leave it with pressure in the up position (like you described) and would not try and lower it with the button, the window may fall down if left that way. You can see me replacing a window regulator for a Civic in this video: ruclips.net/video/djdjsmJHANY/видео.html
Thank you very much I will try this.
My 2004 accord coupe had the same issue. i did take the door apart a couple of days before to fix my door lock actuator and a 2 days later it randomly stopped working after putting it down (didnt go up). I got a new regualtor from the wreckers but it didnt work. I tested the pins on the motor connector like you did in the video and im getting +12v and -12v when i put the window up and down respectively. I put a new switch in it and its not the switch either. Do you think i just got a bad regulator from the wreckers and should buy a new one?
There is a good chance the new (old) regulator is bad. I usually will test it by applying power and ground directly to the motor. I always use a fused jumper wire for safety when I do this or I use a PowerProbe to test it (which has a fuse built into it).
What is the name of the company to get the diagram?
I get them directly from Honda. I pay a lot each year for subscriptions for this info.
Hi. I've got an issue with a Civic 2008 plate. All power windows don't work from either the drivers door switch panel or from the switches on all doors. I've tracked it down to the MICU and I was wondering if the Power window relay is internal or external of the MCU. I can't find any diagrams to show where it is. It's a 2.2 diesel model.
On most Hondas the window relays are replaceable and are usually in the under DASH fuse box. On most of those generation Civics it is located on the very top left of the fuse box. On these Civics, usually the MICU only controls the ground on the control side of the window relay (as a key off timer).
@@BigDog50001 Thank you very much for this info!!! You mean the black one? I did read that the original Omron power relays were swapped for Mitsuba ones...part number 39794-SDA-A05. Do you know if this is true or not? Have you heard of the issue with the A?C relays too?
19:55 anybody else notice that motor oil jugg inside the door 😂
lol not quite, it is just an illusion. The door panel is off the car and leaning against some shelving which happens to have oil jugs near it.
@@BigDog50001 Woah, let me put the piece pipe down 😂
What if the motor is running but the window isn't going up? Is the regulator still bad or the window off track perhaps?
Sounds like an issue with the window regulator. Some have a cable style regulator (most newer Hondas have this) and some have a scissor style regulator. Some regulators can be replaced separately, but for many vehicles the motor comes with the new regulator.
@@BigDog50001 Appreciate it. I will order one today.
How many pounds per square inch does a 2009 Honda CR-V exert when rolling up? Can anyone give me a link where to find this information?
Honda does not publish this type of information.
So, according to your diagram, there _are_ relays in the front passenger side window switch. I hear clicking, sometimes at a stoplight it just "clicks". And the window will not go down. Or, it will not go down until I pull over and slam the passenger door. But there is a "clicking" coming from that passenger side switch area. The window can be operated from the master or passenger switch, when it does work. So is it the relay, the "home/ auto-up" feature needs resetting on the module or the switch. This is a problem that Honda has had for many, many years with their windows, their radio back-lighting going out, and LED back-lighting on the speedometer. There are countless forums on this window problem, and people are begging for answers. Some are even asking for help to convert this motorized debacle into roll-up windows. Unreal. And wait for the Tesla owners 6 years down the road. 😅 😂 🤣
Great video! I'm having trouble diagnosing the issue with my accord (same year coupe).....if the driver's window does NOT go down when you hold the unlock button on the key FOB, could it still be a bad window switch?
They are multiplex controlled so it could be many things. Easiest thing to try first is a control unit reset. ruclips.net/video/scWc_9ALo9Y/видео.html
how much would this cost if i had went somewhere ?
Most shops start with an hour diagnostic fee which can range from $75-$150 depending on where you live. Some will waive the fee if you pay for the part and install to fix it.
BBB no longer offers free diagrams....😕
Yes, unfortunately that appears to be the case.
I bought an Accord today were the drivers window doesn't work and the passenger window goes up and down slowly. The good is the owner reduced the price by 2500 lower than the same car was selling for everywhere else in my area. For that I could put stainless armored plate in place of the windows. lol Just kidding.
How good are you at removing the inner door panels? Pretty easy if you go slow. The "regulator" has a cable attached to the motor. As rain and the elements get in the area of that cable, it causes corrosion and a little rust. Much like a brake cable or a gear shifter cable on a bicycle that never gets lubed. I took all of my motor/ regulators out and lubed them _thoroughly_ with a silicone spray. I mean soaked them. They work great now.
Soon as he pulled out a diagram I got intimidated and gave up
I felt the same way the first time I saw one. The more diagrams you see, the easier it gets to understand them!
1:26
So long winded and full of so much useless side info
👎 for double ads
See if RUclips will give you your money back.
BBB Industries' wiring diagrams are not available anymore (404)... do you know any other source?