Holly Mollie. Your helixs are always engineering marvels. That dispatch area would be cool with four big curved monitors, enough to give a 270-degree view.
The size of that helix is nearly bigger than my entire layout room ! Really enjoying watching this build come together, it's inspired me to push on with my hidden staging project. Cheers.
At the very least, the dispatcher can put his stuff there so it doesn't get in the way of his work (and where his drink won't get spilled on the computer). It was worth its weight in gold during helix construction.
Hi do like watching your videos, and this one was no different. And the pictures at the end are a good recap of what you managed to get done, also the very last picture shows that you don't have to much room left around this layout, I can't imagine how you would have had to build it if you were still in the old workshop
Another wonderful video. Thank you for sharing your work with us! Your knowledge, skill and experience is incredible. I especially enjoyed the videos of your trips to install the layout in Chris's house. I am fascinated that you build these complex layouts in your shop, disassemble them, they are transported hours away and you reassemble them - all with minimal damage. All the best to you and your canine friends!
I don't recall a client name Chris, so I have to assume you are referring to the guy who helped me assemble the Missabe & Western project. He wasn't the owner.
I liked seeing the (very familiar) Australian-style power outlets, with the on/off switch built in to them. A funny story, the first time my US wife and I visited Australia (in 2009), the first morning at my parents place, she got up to make coffee... when I appeared, she said "I think I've broken their electric kettle, I plugged it in, but it isn't working!" I then turned on the switch at the power outlet, and it started to boil the water. "What did you do?" she asked, and I said "I just turned on the power outlet"....
Always fascinating watching how you figure out and build these layouts. (Yes, after I go away, I do come back.) One question I have is why the different thicknesses of roadbed? You've probably covered it before but your having to go back and adjust for not allowing for the change a couple of videos ago and showing us the point at which it changes this time made wonder why. The only thing I could think of is you use the thicker roadbed where the track is ballasted because it looks more realistic and where the track is not going to be ballasted you use the thinner roadbed because it cost less. Keep up the good work and see you next week.
@@mpeterll Yeah, that makes sense, I've often wondered between the fences and how close some cars are to the cross beams how hard is it to get a derailed car back on the track.
Wherever an electrical gap is necessary, there is no rail joiner to hold the rails in alignment. I've only used insulated rail joiners once, and I hated them.
You are a magician Peter, it so awesome to watch your work, I’m looking forward to your video every week 😃 I have a few questions: 1. Do you have a video where you show how you bend the straight tracks, if not could you show how you do that? 2. When you put the bricks on the track to hold them down, do bricks scratch the tracks?
1. I bend ME track around a template. I've shown this a couple of times before. Other brands bend without any effort at all. 2. The bricks could scratch the rails if allowed to slide. I am careful to place and lift them vertically to prevent this. I could wrap them in cloth, but that would be extra time that I don't need to spend.
@@mpeterllthanks for your answers 😃 Btw. Wrapping the bricks in cloth is time-consuming yes, but being careful when you place/remove the bricks on tracks hundreds of times would be more time-consuming I think 😁 Just put the bricks in socks 😉
@@larsmller2253 One would still have to be just as careful, even with wrapped bricks, because the bigger risk is denting the track. One still wouldn't want to slide them either because that could possibly push the track out of alignment, defeating the object of weighting them in the first place. Final verdict: wrapping the bricks would gain nothing.
That is some pretty work. Been in construction for 40 years as I know you were as well. Is that cabinet grade plywood ? Birch / popular ? Really like the safety rail idea. Great stuff, subscribed and binge watching your videos. May consult you with my upcoming design. Would you be willing to share the cost of this undertaking ? Certainly first class - no non-sense build right there.
I already have a track cleaning schedule: I clean the track when I need to run a locomotive for testing, and I clean only the track that I need to test. I also do a full clean after assembly in the customer's home before handing it over.
Can you consider making a video, or do you have one already, on how you manage to break down the final product and ship it to the person purchasing the layout?
Hi, what is the gradient that you are using? I seem to remember that on the KSV layout you used a 2% gradient but perhaps that is too steep for Australian steam locos!
Most of my clamps are one-hand ratchet clamps. The reason I lake those is simply because I can operate them with one hand while holding the work-piece with the other. Spring clamps are also useful in some circumstances. I buy my clamps at Harbor Freight because they are cheap, and that makes a difference when you need as many as I do.
Holly Mollie. Your helixs are always engineering marvels. That dispatch area would be cool with four big curved monitors, enough to give a 270-degree view.
That last view of the whole layout was mind blowing. Magnificent. Great job Peter.
The size of that helix is nearly bigger than my entire layout room ! Really enjoying watching this build come together, it's inspired me to push on with my hidden staging project. Cheers.
It's a little under 7' x 9', so about the size of the third bedroom in most British houses.
Thank you for sharing about putting a grove in the track bed for the wire
Glad it was useful. Sometimes it's the simplest hacks that make the most difference.
Awesome Peter! Great idea including the shelf in the Dispatcher’s Office - thank you.
At the very least, the dispatcher can put his stuff there so it doesn't get in the way of his work (and where his drink won't get spilled on the computer). It was worth its weight in gold during helix construction.
Truly outstanding! Really love your work.
Great work Peter.
Just Incredible!! I am so impressed. Thank you for sharing your talent.
Hi do like watching your videos, and this one was no different. And the pictures at the end are a good recap of what you managed to get done, also the very last picture shows that you don't have to much room left around this layout, I can't imagine how you would have had to build it if you were still in the old workshop
It couldn't have been built in the old workshop. When I accepted the contract to build it, I was committed to building the larger shop.
Another wonderful video. Thank you for sharing your work with us! Your knowledge, skill and experience is incredible.
I especially enjoyed the videos of your trips to install the layout in Chris's house.
I am fascinated that you build these complex layouts in your shop, disassemble them, they are transported hours away and you reassemble them - all with minimal damage.
All the best to you and your canine friends!
I don't recall a client name Chris, so I have to assume you are referring to the guy who helped me assemble the Missabe & Western project. He wasn't the owner.
Extremely impressive!
Absolutely superior work!
Amazing skill!
Epic layout!
Holy Helix Batman! there's more track in the helix than my entire layout
This helix is pretty tame compared with the one I built for the Missabe & Western. Check out that one on the M&S play-list.
Very appropriate using Mountain Dew cans for the helix mountain! Nice work!
I liked seeing the (very familiar) Australian-style power outlets, with the on/off switch built in to them. A funny story, the first time my US wife and I visited Australia (in 2009), the first morning at my parents place, she got up to make coffee... when I appeared, she said "I think I've broken their electric kettle, I plugged it in, but it isn't working!" I then turned on the switch at the power outlet, and it started to boil the water. "What did you do?" she asked, and I said "I just turned on the power outlet"....
I think the US might be the only place where the outlets don't have switches.
@@mpeterll And Canada, at least.
@@mpeterll Lived in Europe for 16 years, worked all over Europe, Caucuses and SE Asia, never saw an outlet with a switch except UK and Australia/NZ
@@BaltimoreOhioToledoSecondSub England and South Africa both have switches on every outlet.
Peter the helix is huge, looks great, I was wondering did you ever do a video on how you solder feeders, Thanks
THANK YOU VIDEO
Excellent work sir! Very impressive
brilliant, thanks!
Hi MPeterll & it's is Randy and i like yours video is Cool & Thanks MPeterll & Friends Randy
Great job bro
Always fascinating watching how you figure out and build these layouts. (Yes, after I go away, I do come back.) One question I have is why the different thicknesses of roadbed? You've probably covered it before but your having to go back and adjust for not allowing for the change a couple of videos ago and showing us the point at which it changes this time made wonder why. The only thing I could think of is you use the thicker roadbed where the track is ballasted because it looks more realistic and where the track is not going to be ballasted you use the thinner roadbed because it cost less. Keep up the good work and see you next week.
Yes and yes, but there's an even better reason. In a helix, more thickness means less finger room between laps.
@@mpeterll Yeah, that makes sense, I've often wondered between the fences and how close some cars are to the cross beams how hard is it to get a derailed car back on the track.
Amazing. The client must be salivating to get his(?) hands on the layout! Can you explain the use of the copper ties at the break points? Thanks.
Wherever an electrical gap is necessary, there is no rail joiner to hold the rails in alignment. I've only used insulated rail joiners once, and I hated them.
You are a magician Peter, it so awesome to watch your work, I’m looking forward to your video every week 😃
I have a few questions:
1. Do you have a video where you show how you bend the straight tracks, if not could you show how you do that?
2. When you put the bricks on the track to hold them down, do bricks scratch the tracks?
1. I bend ME track around a template. I've shown this a couple of times before. Other brands bend without any effort at all.
2. The bricks could scratch the rails if allowed to slide. I am careful to place and lift them vertically to prevent this. I could wrap them in cloth, but that would be extra time that I don't need to spend.
@@mpeterllthanks for your answers 😃
Btw. Wrapping the bricks in cloth is time-consuming yes, but being careful when you place/remove the bricks on tracks hundreds of times would be more time-consuming I think 😁
Just put the bricks in socks 😉
@@larsmller2253 One would still have to be just as careful, even with wrapped bricks, because the bigger risk is denting the track. One still wouldn't want to slide them either because that could possibly push the track out of alignment, defeating the object of weighting them in the first place.
Final verdict: wrapping the bricks would gain nothing.
That is some pretty work. Been in construction for 40 years as I know you were as well.
Is that cabinet grade plywood ? Birch / popular ? Really like the safety rail idea. Great stuff, subscribed and binge watching your videos. May consult you with my upcoming design. Would you be willing to share the cost of this undertaking ? Certainly first class - no non-sense build right there.
Yes, it is all Baltic birch plywood, except for the safety rails which are 3/16" door-skin plywood.
Next you'll be devising a track cleaning schedule. Great job, as always. And I'm guessing that you are not going to manually space all the ties?
I already have a track cleaning schedule: I clean the track when I need to run a locomotive for testing, and I clean only the track that I need to test.
I also do a full clean after assembly in the customer's home before handing it over.
No sign of your steamer (loco) running on that helix yet! 🙂
No, the wiring is a couple of steps behind the track-laying. There's a lot of wire!
Can you consider making a video, or do you have one already, on how you manage to break down the final product and ship it to the person purchasing the layout?
There is one such video in every layout's play-list.
That's where you need to have patience. These videos are not about train layouts. Rather, it's a lengthy intro to a very complicated game of tetris.
You're obviously a very intelligent man with great skill. You have my respect. By the way, what is the diameter of your helix?
Is this getting shipped to Sydney, Australia, upon completion?
The only other option would be for the owner to fly half-way around the world every time he wants to run a train.
🤣
Hi, what is the gradient that you are using? I seem to remember that on the KSV layout you used a 2% gradient but perhaps that is too steep for Australian steam locos!
Ruling grade is 1.8% eastbound and 2.2% westbound.
The railroad is based on CSX and will be operated with multi-unit diesels.
@@mpeterll No problem for the diesels then, I was just a little concerned if steam locos were going to run;-)
what make of clamps do you use and why
Most of my clamps are one-hand ratchet clamps. The reason I lake those is simply because I can operate them with one hand while holding the work-piece with the other. Spring clamps are also useful in some circumstances.
I buy my clamps at Harbor Freight because they are cheap, and that makes a difference when you need as many as I do.
@@mpeterll ok thanks