Great walk-thru. Sun Coast guy completely disagrees with removing spring from engagement control valve (34:45) and he said "just add 100 pound springs to accumulator body valves and it works just great", lol. After this video, all is explained very well. Thanks for taking the time to put this out.
Oh geez! Yeah there is a ton to know about these transmissions. I trust you have clarity now on the inner workings at this point. Thanks for the comment.
WOW technical information overload but I love it I have a 4R100 in my F250 I'm self teaching myself to possibly overhaul it in a few years Thanks for the videos your a great teacher
Love this video because I'm rebuilding my e40d now and about to rebuild the valve body and acumilators as well. Good tips and I'm going to do the tricks with the springs and all that too since I want longevity and nicer shifts. Especially after a full rebuild
@marshallsanders5672 thank you. First time building a trans but I thought it would be way harder 😄. Not easy for sure. But seems like I had a few burnt clutches and the planetary washers are fried. Planets seem fine and everything else doesn't appear to be worn in any way. Got lucky I guess. I'm curious to pull my trans out of my truck amd see hoe that ones going to be intenrally haha. Since I've been driving on this one with slipping clutches and a hard late 2nd shift. I bet it's fired more so then the one I'm rebuilding to swap into it
Well my trans build I don't think worked out as great as I thought. Installed trans today and truck won't move. 😢 nit sure if torque converter didn't go in properly even though it bolts up right. And new sensors and plugs. So I'm clueless
Oh man sorry to hear that. This comes down to the easy things first. Strange noises, filter installed, confident the torque converter was in all the way, manual valve in the linkage slot. After all that is checked off I would do a pressure check to see if it actually has line pressure with a guage. Just try to remember and recollect anything that you might have missed or wasn’t completely confident with.
Marshall, the instructions on the Transgo Tugger kit tells ya to plug the old-school 'full time lube' hole in the stator support, if its present. I wonder if the transgo PR and boost valve somehow mitigates the problem of not enuf lube flow under low speed/hi load condition? Or should a guy install sonnax line-to-lube valve instead of the transgo boost valve (I already gots the transgo kit, was wonderin' if it was good enuf)
Ok the lowdown on that is the Transgo pressure regulator lineup doesn’t address line to lube. All you have to do is install the Sonnax pressure regulator “Line to Lube”valve in place of the factory or Transgo valve. You can still use All the rest of the Transgo line up with the Sonnax valve. Top hats/springs/boost valve etc. That is the ultimate fix and the best way to go. That’s what I do on all my E4OD’s/4R100’s. Transgo doesn’t make a line to lube valve and they sure aren’t going to recommend a different companies product. I will use anyones product in the same transmission to get the best possible result and this is the perfect instance of doing just that.
An even simpler layman’s way to explain accumulation - if there is none, a shift into reverse will throw the driver against the windscreen. A shift forward - into the rear seat. It’s like having the clutch pedal on a manual to spring up.
okay, so I finally had some good weather roll through so I could lay on my back and get this unit back in the van, ended up filing up with 16 quarts of fluid and then got to do the first test run... every thing seems to be relatively normal only 2 concerns that led me to do a line pressure test. When I first put in about 8 quarts, fired it up and put in the other 8 over the next 20 minutes or so, running through the gears and checking my level from the 10th to the 16th quart, getting it nice and warm, back out the driveway, reverse acts good, pulled it in to D and seemed a little sluggish in D 1st gear, and then it upshifts to 2nd so quickly that you bearly notice that sluggishness cuz once its in 2nd all the way through OD it feels good, so I pulled it down into L1 and, I dont think slipping is the right word more like the e-brake is partially on, and the engine breaking seems pretty severe also, not really bound up or nothing like that just like the breaks partially on. So my line pressure goes like this, and Im pretty sure this motor is Idling to fast like 1100 rpms but thats a separate issue, but at idle in park I got175 psi seems high to me at idle in R 350 psi, N 175, D 165, 2nd 165, L1 350... doesnt seem right, any ideas?
Wow ! That much line pressure is a problem. Either the PCS / Pressure Control Solenoid is stuck, Something wrong with the pressure regulator valve train in the pump/ Or the computer is controlling the pressure high because there is a code in the computer. Check for codes /clear the codes and go from there ! Must address the high line pressure before doing anything else
Thank You! Yeah transmissions are very humbling it’s not about boasting about my knowledge but more just sharing knowledge and receiving it as well. It’s ALL about learning my friend! Thanks for the comment really appreciate it.
A Master Class and a fantastic find for me! . My issue is the flex plate is bent on my 01 F-250 TD - as seen on the starter ring gear - so the transmission needs to come out anyways. I don't know how that happened... Then, the other day I was hauling a heavy U-haul trailer and midway through the trip the transmission started slipping. I had to drive several miles to get to the next town in the middle of nowhere FL, but at the stoplight the truck wouldn't move. Fluid was leaking from the bell housing. Refilled with fluid and got it home; it shifted ok and didn't slip anymore. So, my questions are, would you recommend a billet flex and top quality 3-plate TC? If so, what brand? I am going to disassemble the transmission bc it has some mileage on it anyways and I'd imagine the clutches are probably burnt. I take it you recommend Sonnax rebuild and shift kits? What brand solenoid pack do you use? Thanks
All great questions! Thanks for the Comments. Yes for sure a top quality 3 Clutch Torque Converter with ANY towing application ! PRECISION CONVERTERS of New Hampton is who I use Very Good Quality and reasonable price ! As far as the Flexplate not sure you need a billet but wouldn’t hurt if your willing to spend the money ! Is it a Diesel ? I am currently build an E4OD on you-tube and am putting in the Trans-go Tugger kit. I’ve never used this kit but highly recommended by a trans-builder I know. I would recommend the Tugger kit for towing even though I have never put one in yet . My next video I am going to explain Torque Converter lock up systems a bit and especially important on your 4R100 as it’s a PWM TCC lock up apply ! And the Tugger kit comes with a valve to convert it from PWM lock up to On/Off TCC apply which I will explain in my next video !Stay tuned ! As far as the solenoid pack goes it’s hit and miss with those . New ones are hard to get. I use Whatever it Takes , PA CARGO or Transtar for all my parts at this point. And request a new solenoid pack w/ the ORANGE bottom plastic cover which I’m going to do another video on 4R100 solenoid packs. Not sure if you saw my solenoid pack test video but worth a look !
After rebuilding my 4R100 transmission using the transgo HD kit also there is no movement of the F250 in any gears & line pressure when checked is below 12psi. Do I have a pump problem.
Oh man, very probable there is a pump problem, this is where you look back in your mind and ask yourself, is the filter in, did the pressure regulator/boost valve in the pump go in with no problems and the snap ring locked in, is the valvebody and gaskets/ plate bolt in properly etc. enough fluid ? Make sure the Manual valve is in the linkage slot if it isn't it may be dumping line pressure back to the sump. Eliminate all the easy stuff before you have to pull it back out and figure out what happened if that makes sense
I’ve got 90psi line pressure in park and neutral basically zero pressure in any gears. Tugger kit installed, and new overhaul. I suspect the epc solenoid? Have any ideas? Thanks
Oh geez! 90psi in park and neutral sounds perfect for a “Tugger” kit. You have a MAJOR hydraulic leak somewhere. It’s not the EPC solenoid or system unless the EPC sol. Is stuck open and you didn’t put in the EPC relief valve and spring in the case possibly but that would effect base pressure as well. The EPC system only effects pressure from base pressure “90” psi and up. Misplaced/Missing checkball wrong valvebody gaskets would be my guess without looking at a hydraulic schematic. The fact that it has no forward or reverse and no pressure in any gear is concerning just because it uses different hydraulic circuits. Did you build it or someone else?
I built it, have done quite a few E4ods and many others over the years. Never a problem like this. I always double and triple check my work. And follow atra manual, as well as your videos. Thanks for the response and videos.
@@buck6313 Ok so you know what’s in there and what isn’t. It has a massive hydraulic leak somewhere in the valvebody is my guess. Checkballs/backwards valve etc. I like to hear that you double and triple check everything that means your paying attention for sure. I would think your pressure regulator system in the pump is fine because your base pressure in park and neutral is perfect. I personally would just carefully remove the valvebody and quadruple check everything checkball location/ valve placement/ gaskets etc. Did you change any of the valve body components themselves meaning the castings themselves? Start with ANYTHING easy before you go down the rabbit hole of meticulously checking all the valves etc. Center support torqued and all bolts in? Beings it has no pressure in fwd or reverse narrows down a lot of circuits they don’t share.
There was some question about the separator plate. I have a 95 trans but it had a lot of newer parts put in it at one point in its life. So sorting all of that out was somewhat of a nightmare. My plate was supposedly a late 95. It had the extra notch for id. Going in for surgery tomorrow for my rotator cuff so it will be a couple months before I get back to it. I will post what I find then. Thanks again
@@marshallsanders5672 My apologies. The valve is .427. I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to respond. Virtually everything in my transmission looks brand new except for the pump. Mint condition light blue TC. All clutch frictions are in perfect condition. All 18 springs in my Low/Reverse return plate. The pump (in my zero experience) looks sketchy. O-ring on the end of the input shaft housing is damaged. Pump body bushing is scored and there is a lot of play when I put the TC on it. The pump has the hole drilled in it and an OE style pressure regulator valve. No line-to-lube. The only other thing I noticed was the air bleeder cap on the top of the case was stuck shut(had to bang on it to loosen it).
Gotcha sounds like your ok except the pump and torque converter. That could have all been caused by the installation! You said the “0”ring I’m assuming the Teflon scarf cut seal was damaged on the end of the stator? That could have burned the TCC clutch. Sounds like the pump bushing is toast. Make sure the torque converter hub isn’t scored up to the point it needs replaced. Be sure to watch my latest 2 videos in particular my TCC/PWM Torque Converter Video and The Pump from Hell video. It explains everything you need to know about correcting the problems of your trans..427 is a bit large I would probably scale it back to .372
First off amazing set of videos of I had found this video series before I bought a re built transmission I would have just done it myself with your videos!! 4r100 7.3 2wd I installed a triple disc converter and a modified accumulator valve body and a deep trans pan along with a 6.0 trans cooler and I love the way it drives. However I am experiencing a problem with my forward clutch engagement, it’s completely random at this point doesn’t do it all the time but happens most when shifting from reverse into drive and it doesn’t engage then wait 3-5 seconds and it engages and then will have no problem after that or while driving. After watching your video I am wondering if I have a bad lip seal on the forward clutch or some cross leakage from the valve body if there was any information you could recommend please let me know. I was going to pull the pan and remove the spring of the engagement valve and see if the corrects my issue. Thanks again for the videos.
Robert, I would think if it was a cross leak it would be more consistent with the problem it has. It is possible there is something going on with the forward piston lipseal/O"ring. I have seen where some builders miss checking the inner surface of the Forward clutch piston! They tend to hammer out rubbing against the forward drum and can create intermittent engagement problems like the one your having. It seems to me something with the forward clutch is going on. Also you may want to try when it isn't engaging pulling it down to manual second see what happens and then pull down to manual 1st. and see if the engagement is any different then just putting it into drive. Also when it doesn't engage hit the stalk button to O/D OFF and see if that makes any difference in Drive range. The whole purpose of these two checks is to see if there is just a sprag/roller clutch not holding when its supposed to! Let me know what you find.
@@marshallsanders5672 thank you for responding I appreciate your knowledge. I drove it for a week to jury duty and had No problems but I have a high idle setting that I let the truck warm up with before driving, however when cold moving to the garage to work on other things, after backing up out the spot it was parked in and putting it in D the truck at idle would grab and release 2 times quickly then it held and drove in the shop without a problem. If this helps at all let me know if you think there is a forward clutch lip seal problem I will tear it all the way down I am just trying to fix the truck. Thank you again
Check line pressure first and make sure it’s not stuck high. If it is rising and falling as it should the problem most likely is in the 1-2 accumulator transition valve and accumulator system in the Accumulator valve body. Sticking valves broken springs etc.
I rebuild my 91 ford e40d following the transmission bench instructions the overhaul kit came with the superior shift kit and i have a very hard shift in the 1&2 and lesser firmer into 3d if any one has installed the e40d/r4100 supperior shift kit and can help me to pin point diagnose my problem i would appreciate any input this hard shift are in idle like any where from 1000 rpm if i go higher the kick gets harder so im careful not to rev the engine as i start out my truck is a 91 f150 with a six in line the toeque converter was a rebuilt unit hope to hear from any one thanks.
First thing you need to do is a line pressure check, There are two things that will cause Harsh shifting, 1) High Line Pressure 2) Something not right in the accumulator transition valve circuit. Hook a gauge to the line pressure port on the transmission and check what the pressure is at idle. It should be around 80 psi with that shift kit at IDLE. The more you hit the gas the higher the pressure will rise incrementally up to about 170psi at full forward throttle or (Stall). If it is stuck high then there is a problem with the Line Pressure Circuit/ EPC Solenoid, Pressure Regulator valve or boost valve etc. ( With one caviot to that being if there are any specific codes in the computer it will raise the line pressure on purpose to avoid burning up the clutches which will cause harsh shifting on purpose). If all is fine with the line pressure then you need to go into the Accumulator valve body and check the accumulator systems for whatever particular gear you having trouble with, In your case it seems to be the 1-2 shift and possibly the 2-3 shift. (Sticky Transition valve, Sticky or stuck Accumulator plunger, to heavy springs for your application etc.) I talk about all of this in my "Transgo Tugger Kit" Install video and others as well. This should narrow it down to pinpoint the problem, and like I said make absolutely sure there are no codes in the computer.
Did you have to go back and add or remove any shims in accumulator valves after a test drive? Setting up an accumulator now with the 4.27” mod valve, the sonnax springs and valves. Starting with 2 shims each on 1-2 and 2-3 and no shims on the 3-4.
I actually had to add one to the 3-4 valve. But I only used the .372 valve, Its a guess game whether you might need it or not, I would probably put one in if it were mine. I also removed one shim from the 1-2 valve it was a bit to firm on the 1-2.
Oh man ! I could throw a hissy fit on the schematics itself but they are All Data. The best schematics I’ve seen so far but they are all jacked up in the fact there are oil circuits being charged in a given gear and not even close to what gear the trans is actually in ! I will NOT post a video without explaining the PROPER flow of these oil circuits ! It drives me Nuts 🌰 stay tuned because that is a whole nother video in itself about the info floating around on the internet ! I am DETERMINED to bring PROPER information on everything I post .
I have a E4od out of a 94 F-350 with a 7.3 Turbo diesel , best i can tell it is a 91 type case,with a 96 model main valve body and plates,with early model solenoid pack.It looks like a rebuilt trans. My problem was the code 62 t.c. slipping ,also slow engagement going into reverse with slippage,reverse slippage only,all forward gears normal engagement with no slippage.I have disassembled and don't see any burned clutches, What do I need to check more, what area do you think is causing my problem. I am no transmission man,but it all looks ok to me ,very little wear. Would appreciate your advice and help.
That is a strange one for sure ! When someone has been in there changing different year parts around it’s a tough deal ! Possible wrong valvebody gaskets wrong/checkballs in the wrong place etc. no burnt clutches makes it all the more difficult to diagnose . Check valves in valvebody for hanging up for sure. Watch my TCC/PWM video it explains Torque Converter Clutches and problems quite deeply !
i got another question i bought the zip kit, and was going to install it yesterday. but say that it did not come with the springs no worries i have a kit that came with my clutches. The question i have it the valve that is for the 1-2/2-3/3-4, there is a plug do i take that out to get to that valve or actuator? sorry that this is a little jumbled.
Either one will work just fine. I have never used the Tugger Kit yet but Have heard great things from other builders about that kit. I have used the Sonnax Kit and have had good luck with it.
Nope Not in particular For that its all about Torque/Horsepower level and just building it accordingly. My next video will be the evolution of the E4OD and ALL the upgrades for Racing or HeavyDuty situations. Stay TUNED!
Great walk-thru. Sun Coast guy completely disagrees with removing spring from engagement control valve (34:45) and he said "just add 100 pound springs to accumulator body valves and it works just great", lol. After this video, all is explained very well. Thanks for taking the time to put this out.
Oh geez! Yeah there is a ton to know about these transmissions. I trust you have clarity now on the inner workings at this point. Thanks for the comment.
@@marshallsanders5672 Yes I do! I am also a lot more comfortable with future repairs. Hope to test run my full rebuild tomorrow, fingers crossed.
WOW technical information overload but I love it
I have a 4R100 in my F250 I'm self teaching myself to possibly overhaul it in a few years
Thanks for the videos your a great teacher
Love this video because I'm rebuilding my e40d now and about to rebuild the valve body and acumilators as well. Good tips and I'm going to do the tricks with the springs and all that too since I want longevity and nicer shifts. Especially after a full rebuild
Awesome! Glad you got something usable from the video! These transmissions shift great once their rebuilt properly! Happy Building
@marshallsanders5672 thank you. First time building a trans but I thought it would be way harder 😄. Not easy for sure. But seems like I had a few burnt clutches and the planetary washers are fried. Planets seem fine and everything else doesn't appear to be worn in any way. Got lucky I guess. I'm curious to pull my trans out of my truck amd see hoe that ones going to be intenrally haha. Since I've been driving on this one with slipping clutches and a hard late 2nd shift. I bet it's fired more so then the one I'm rebuilding to swap into it
Very cool your making it happen! They aren’t easy but very manageable if approached properly. Be sure to check your endplays when final assembling it.
@marshallsanders5672 yes I remember you mentioning endplay a few times before so I'll make sure to check that 👌 thank you
I have a e40d trans with issues feel like i have a better understanding an places to look now after watching your video
Well my trans build I don't think worked out as great as I thought. Installed trans today and truck won't move. 😢 nit sure if torque converter didn't go in properly even though it bolts up right. And new sensors and plugs. So I'm clueless
Oh man sorry to hear that. This comes down to the easy things first. Strange noises, filter installed, confident the torque converter was in all the way, manual valve in the linkage slot. After all that is checked off I would do a pressure check to see if it actually has line pressure with a guage. Just try to remember and recollect anything that you might have missed or wasn’t completely confident with.
Marshall
Thanks for this video, theres a lot of great information here, thanks for teaching us
The new video is uploading as I’m commenting here ! It’s a good one ! A MUST watch !
Marshall, the instructions on the Transgo Tugger kit tells ya to plug the old-school 'full time lube' hole in the stator support, if its present. I wonder if the transgo PR and boost valve somehow mitigates the problem of not enuf lube flow under low speed/hi load condition? Or should a guy install sonnax line-to-lube valve instead of the transgo boost valve (I already gots the transgo kit, was wonderin' if it was good enuf)
Ok the lowdown on that is the Transgo pressure regulator lineup doesn’t address line to lube.
All you have to do is install the Sonnax pressure regulator “Line to Lube”valve in place of the factory or Transgo valve. You can still use All the rest of the Transgo line up with the Sonnax valve. Top hats/springs/boost valve etc. That is the ultimate fix and the best way to go. That’s what I do on all my E4OD’s/4R100’s. Transgo doesn’t make a line to lube valve and they sure aren’t going to recommend a different companies product. I will use anyones product in the same transmission to get the best possible result and this is the perfect instance of doing just that.
An even simpler layman’s way to explain accumulation - if there is none, a shift into reverse will throw the driver against the windscreen. A shift forward - into the rear seat.
It’s like having the clutch pedal on a manual to spring up.
That’s funny ! Definitely a more direct way of putting it !
okay, so I finally had some good weather roll through so I could lay on my back and get this unit back in the van, ended up filing up with 16 quarts of fluid and then got to do the first test run... every thing seems to be relatively normal only 2 concerns that led me to do a line pressure test. When I first put in about 8 quarts, fired it up and put in the other 8 over the next 20 minutes or so, running through the gears and checking my level from the 10th to the 16th quart, getting it nice and warm, back out the driveway, reverse acts good, pulled it in to D and seemed a little sluggish in D 1st gear, and then it upshifts to 2nd so quickly that you bearly notice that sluggishness cuz once its in 2nd all the way through OD it feels good, so I pulled it down into L1 and, I dont think slipping is the right word more like the e-brake is partially on, and the engine breaking seems pretty severe also, not really bound up or nothing like that just like the breaks partially on. So my line pressure goes like this, and Im pretty sure this motor is Idling to fast like 1100 rpms but thats a separate issue, but at idle in park I got175 psi seems high to me at idle in R 350 psi, N 175, D 165, 2nd 165, L1 350... doesnt seem right, any ideas?
Wow ! That much line pressure is a problem. Either the PCS / Pressure Control Solenoid is stuck, Something wrong with the pressure regulator valve train in the pump/ Or the computer is controlling the pressure high because there is a code in the computer. Check for codes /clear the codes and go from there !
Must address the high line pressure before doing anything else
I like how you dont talk down to people i know if you work for aamco watching some of those put you to sleep videos they put out nice job
Thank You! Yeah transmissions are very humbling it’s not about boasting about my knowledge but more just sharing knowledge and receiving it as well. It’s ALL about learning my friend! Thanks for the comment really appreciate it.
A Master Class and a fantastic find for me! . My issue is the flex plate is bent on my 01 F-250 TD - as seen on the starter ring gear - so the transmission needs to come out anyways. I don't know how that happened... Then, the other day I was hauling a heavy U-haul trailer and midway through the trip the transmission started slipping. I had to drive several miles to get to the next town in the middle of nowhere FL, but at the stoplight the truck wouldn't move. Fluid was leaking from the bell housing. Refilled with fluid and got it home; it shifted ok and didn't slip anymore. So, my questions are, would you recommend a billet flex and top quality 3-plate TC? If so, what brand? I am going to disassemble the transmission bc it has some mileage on it anyways and I'd imagine the clutches are probably burnt. I take it you recommend Sonnax rebuild and shift kits? What brand solenoid pack do you use? Thanks
All great questions! Thanks for the Comments.
Yes for sure a top quality 3 Clutch Torque Converter with ANY towing application ! PRECISION CONVERTERS of New Hampton is who I use Very Good Quality and reasonable price !
As far as the Flexplate not sure you need a billet but wouldn’t hurt if your willing to spend the money ! Is it a Diesel ?
I am currently build an E4OD on you-tube and am putting in the Trans-go Tugger kit. I’ve never used this kit but highly recommended by a trans-builder I know. I would recommend the Tugger kit for towing even though I have never put one in yet . My next video I am going to explain Torque Converter lock up systems a bit and especially important on your 4R100 as it’s a PWM TCC lock up apply ! And the Tugger kit comes with a valve to convert it from PWM lock up to On/Off TCC apply which I will explain in my next video !Stay tuned !
As far as the solenoid pack goes it’s hit and miss with those . New ones are hard to get. I use Whatever it Takes , PA CARGO or Transtar for all my parts at this point. And request a new solenoid pack w/ the ORANGE bottom plastic cover which I’m going to do another video on 4R100 solenoid packs. Not sure if you saw my solenoid pack test video but worth a look !
After rebuilding my 4R100 transmission using the transgo HD kit also there is no movement of the F250 in any gears & line pressure when checked is below 12psi. Do I have a pump problem.
Oh man, very probable there is a pump problem, this is where you look back in your mind and ask yourself, is the filter in, did the pressure regulator/boost valve in the pump go in with no problems and the snap ring locked in, is the valvebody and gaskets/ plate bolt in properly etc. enough fluid ? Make sure the Manual valve is in the linkage slot if it isn't it may be dumping line pressure back to the sump. Eliminate all the easy stuff before you have to pull it back out and figure out what happened if that makes sense
thanks for response & the info. Will take onboard all above & will feedback the outcome.
I’ve got 90psi line pressure in park and neutral basically zero pressure in any gears. Tugger kit installed, and new overhaul. I suspect the epc solenoid? Have any ideas? Thanks
Oh geez! 90psi in park and neutral sounds perfect for a “Tugger” kit.
You have a MAJOR hydraulic leak somewhere.
It’s not the EPC solenoid or system unless the EPC sol. Is stuck open and you didn’t put in the EPC relief valve and spring in the case possibly but that would effect base pressure as well. The EPC system only effects pressure from base pressure “90” psi and up. Misplaced/Missing checkball wrong valvebody gaskets would be my guess without looking at a hydraulic schematic.
The fact that it has no forward or reverse and no pressure in any gear is concerning just because it uses different hydraulic circuits. Did you build it or someone else?
I built it, have done quite a few E4ods and many others over the years. Never a problem like this. I always double and triple check my work. And follow atra manual, as well as your videos. Thanks for the response and videos.
@@buck6313
Ok so you know what’s in there and what isn’t. It has a massive hydraulic leak somewhere in the valvebody is my guess. Checkballs/backwards valve etc. I like to hear that you double and triple check everything that means your paying attention for sure.
I would think your pressure regulator system in the pump is fine because your base pressure in park and neutral is perfect.
I personally would just carefully remove the valvebody and quadruple check everything checkball location/ valve placement/ gaskets etc.
Did you change any of the valve body components themselves meaning the castings themselves? Start with ANYTHING easy before you go down the rabbit hole of meticulously checking all the valves etc.
Center support torqued and all bolts in? Beings it has no pressure in fwd or reverse narrows down a lot of circuits they don’t share.
There was some question about the separator plate. I have a 95 trans but it had a lot of newer parts put in it at one point in its life. So sorting all of that out was somewhat of a nightmare. My plate was supposedly a late 95. It had the extra notch for id. Going in for surgery tomorrow for my rotator cuff so it will be a couple months before I get back to it. I will post what I find then. Thanks again
I have a 1991 Bronco.
The previous owner put in a "new" transmission of unknown origin that has a .472 valve.
Is that too large for a Bronco?
Is it .472 or .372 ? 472 is probably to big but .372 should work fine
@@marshallsanders5672
My apologies. The valve is .427.
I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to respond.
Virtually everything in my transmission looks brand new except for the pump.
Mint condition light blue TC.
All clutch frictions are in perfect condition.
All 18 springs in my Low/Reverse return plate.
The pump (in my zero experience) looks sketchy.
O-ring on the end of the input shaft housing is damaged.
Pump body bushing is scored and there is a lot of play when I put the TC on it.
The pump has the hole drilled in it and an OE style pressure regulator valve. No line-to-lube.
The only other thing I noticed was the air bleeder cap on the top of the case was stuck shut(had to bang on it to loosen it).
Gotcha sounds like your ok except the pump and torque converter. That could have all been caused by the installation! You said the “0”ring I’m assuming the Teflon scarf cut seal was damaged on the end of the stator? That could have burned the TCC clutch. Sounds like the pump bushing is toast. Make sure the torque converter hub isn’t scored up to the point it needs replaced. Be sure to watch my latest 2 videos in particular my TCC/PWM Torque Converter Video and The Pump from Hell video. It explains everything you need to know about correcting the problems of your trans..427 is a bit large I would probably scale it back to .372
@@marshallsanders5672 Thanks. I've watched the Pump From Hell video about 10 times now. Will watch it another 10....
First off amazing set of videos of I had found this video series before I bought a re built transmission I would have just done it myself with your videos!!
4r100 7.3 2wd I installed a triple disc converter and a modified accumulator valve body and a deep trans pan along with a 6.0 trans cooler and I love the way it drives. However I am experiencing a problem with my forward clutch engagement, it’s completely random at this point doesn’t do it all the time but happens most when shifting from reverse into drive and it doesn’t engage then wait 3-5 seconds and it engages and then will have no problem after that or while driving. After watching your video I am wondering if I have a bad lip seal on the forward clutch or some cross leakage from the valve body if there was any information you could recommend please let me know. I was going to pull the pan and remove the spring of the engagement valve and see if the corrects my issue. Thanks again for the videos.
Robert, I would think if it was a cross leak it would be more consistent with the problem it has. It is possible there is something going on with the forward piston lipseal/O"ring. I have seen where some builders miss checking the inner surface of the Forward clutch piston! They tend to hammer out rubbing against the forward drum and can create intermittent engagement problems like the one your having. It seems to me something with the forward clutch is going on. Also you may want to try when it isn't engaging pulling it down to manual second see what happens and then pull down to manual 1st. and see if the engagement is any different then just putting it into drive. Also when it doesn't engage hit the stalk button to O/D OFF and see if that makes any difference in Drive range. The whole purpose of these two checks is to see if there is just a sprag/roller clutch not holding when its supposed to! Let me know what you find.
@@marshallsanders5672 thank you for responding I appreciate your knowledge. I drove it for a week to jury duty and had No problems but I have a high idle setting that I let the truck warm up with before driving, however when cold moving to the garage to work on other things, after backing up out the spot it was parked in and putting it in D the truck at idle would grab and release 2 times quickly then it held and drove in the shop without a problem. If this helps at all let me know if you think there is a forward clutch lip seal problem I will tear it all the way down I am just trying to fix the truck. Thank you again
What will cause hard shifting from 1 to 2?
Check line pressure first and make sure it’s not stuck high. If it is rising and falling as it should the problem most likely is in the 1-2 accumulator transition valve and accumulator system in the Accumulator valve body. Sticking valves broken springs etc.
I rebuild my 91 ford e40d following the transmission bench instructions the overhaul kit came with the superior shift kit and i have a very hard shift in the 1&2 and lesser firmer into 3d if any one has installed the e40d/r4100 supperior shift kit and can help me to pin point diagnose my problem i would appreciate any input this hard shift are in idle like any where from 1000 rpm if i go higher the kick gets harder so im careful not to rev the engine as i start out my truck is a 91 f150 with a six in line the toeque converter was a rebuilt unit hope to hear from any one thanks.
First thing you need to do is a line pressure check, There are two things that will cause Harsh shifting, 1) High Line Pressure 2) Something not right in the accumulator transition valve circuit. Hook a gauge to the line pressure port on the transmission and check what the pressure is at idle. It should be around 80 psi with that shift kit at IDLE. The more you hit the gas the higher the pressure will rise incrementally up to about 170psi at full forward throttle or (Stall). If it is stuck high then there is a problem with the Line Pressure Circuit/ EPC Solenoid, Pressure Regulator valve or boost valve etc. ( With one caviot to that being if there are any specific codes in the computer it will raise the line pressure on purpose to avoid burning up the clutches which will cause harsh shifting on purpose). If all is fine with the line pressure then you need to go into the Accumulator valve body and check the accumulator systems for whatever particular gear you having trouble with, In your case it seems to be the 1-2 shift and possibly the 2-3 shift. (Sticky Transition valve, Sticky or stuck Accumulator plunger, to heavy springs for your application etc.) I talk about all of this in my "Transgo Tugger Kit" Install video and others as well. This should narrow it down to pinpoint the problem, and like I said make absolutely sure there are no codes in the computer.
Did you have to go back and add or remove any shims in accumulator valves after a test drive? Setting up an accumulator now with the 4.27” mod valve, the sonnax springs and valves. Starting with 2 shims each on 1-2 and 2-3 and no shims on the 3-4.
I actually had to add one to the 3-4 valve. But I only used the .372 valve, Its a guess game whether you might need it or not, I would probably put one in if it were mine. I also removed one shim from the 1-2 valve it was a bit to firm on the 1-2.
Excellent, thanks for the information and great job on your vids.
Yes Sir any time ! Let me know how that .427 valve works out for you.
I’m assuming it’s a diesel H/D truck ?
Where do you get these schematics?
Oh man ! I could throw a hissy fit on the schematics itself but they are All Data. The best schematics I’ve seen so far but they are all jacked up in the fact there are oil circuits being charged in a given gear and not even close to what gear the trans is actually in ! I will NOT post a video without explaining the PROPER flow of these oil circuits ! It drives me Nuts 🌰 stay tuned because that is a whole nother video in itself about the info floating around on the internet ! I am DETERMINED to bring PROPER information on everything I post .
@@marshallsanders5672 thank you! You are one of the best imo! Keep up the good work because your channel will hit 50k in the near future.
I have a E4od out of a 94 F-350 with a 7.3 Turbo diesel , best i can tell it is a 91 type case,with a 96 model main valve body and plates,with early model solenoid pack.It looks like a rebuilt trans. My problem was the code 62 t.c. slipping ,also slow engagement going into reverse with slippage,reverse slippage only,all forward gears normal engagement with no slippage.I have disassembled and don't see any burned clutches, What do I need to check more, what area do you think is causing my problem. I am no transmission man,but it all looks ok to me ,very little wear. Would appreciate your advice and help.
That is a strange one for sure ! When someone has been in there changing different year parts around it’s a tough deal ! Possible wrong valvebody gaskets wrong/checkballs in the wrong place etc. no burnt clutches makes it all the more difficult to diagnose . Check valves in valvebody for hanging up for sure. Watch my TCC/PWM video it explains Torque Converter Clutches and problems quite deeply !
i got another question i bought the zip kit, and was going to install it yesterday. but say that it did not come with the springs no worries i have a kit that came with my clutches. The question i have it the valve that is for the 1-2/2-3/3-4, there is a plug do i take that out to get to that valve or actuator? sorry that this is a little jumbled.
Yes just take it out just keep everything in order on a clean rag
@@marshallsanders5672 do I need to put the plug back in or just have the stopper in to stop the spring?
Which would you recommend for a engine and trans build for towing and some horsepower. Sonnax zip kit or the trans go tigger kit?
Either one will work just fine. I have never used the Tugger Kit yet but Have heard great things from other builders about that kit. I have used the Sonnax Kit and have had good luck with it.
@@marshallsanders5672 are the directions they provide easy to follow?
Would there be a difference in the process if you were doing this on a gasser like a 460?
Nope Not in particular For that its all about Torque/Horsepower level and just building it accordingly. My next video will be the evolution of the E4OD and ALL the upgrades for Racing or HeavyDuty situations. Stay TUNED!
what kit did you use for the upgrade portion for the valve body?
Sonnax sure cure !