Very helpful video. There aren’t many out here for this year CRV so it will come in handy. Thanks for posting. Don’t sweat the editing, the content is more valuable.
Many thanks for the video really good and helpful. But a word of warning here if you do this yourself. I have just done mine twice and the reason is the tiny collets that are built into the gaskets. On the Honda original gasket and the aftermarket gasket that I purchased they have tiny collets that fit over the studs but only where the gasket is close to the flexplate/flywheel. I believe its there to stop you overtightening the gasket. What happened to me was that the gasket come away with the oil pan but left a collet stuck to the block on a stud which I did not see. So watch for it as it could save you a lot of work and expense.
Excellent vid mate really helping me a lot... My wife has a year 2000 Honda CR-V with the 2.0l petrol engine. Literally when oil is poured in it comes out the bottom near to where the sump plug is. It seems to run down the side of the oil pan next to where the plug is. The oil is dripping from above and to the left the plug somewhere as you look at it from the front. Help doctor help 😱
If I remember correctly, those engines don't have an oil cooler...but double check (two hoses going to the base of the oil filter). The o-ring there is prone to failing and leaking profusely. Seeing as you referenced it as a 'petrol' engine, I'm gonna hazard a guess that this CR-V isn't USDM. Nevertheless, if you clean off the area, and watch it while someone starts and runs the engine, pinpointing the leak should be easy enough. That said, I hope that helps. If you have further questions or wanna send pics of the area in question, thegqtech@gmail.com is my email address. "Holla @ your boy!" Best of luck! -100
Going to be taking on the oil pan change challenge for my 2000 crv. I was wondering what you were spraying on the surface mount for cleaning? Thanks! Would like to add very helpful video. I appreciate you posting and sharing.
Thanks! I'm glad it helps anyone attempting to perform the job themselves. As for the surface cleaning, any non-chlorinated brake cleaning product would suffice. Bon chance, mon ami! -100
Hi! Yes. A small dollop where the gasket curves and meets sharp corners of the block... ...the corners where the gasket bends around the crank. NOTE: be sure to remove all metal inserts that may have stuck on the studs from the old gasket. Good luck.
Good eye! I reused the old gasket and had no issue. Its not uncommon for the gasket to be fit for reuse. However, be aware that many a time the corrosion buildup makes for a fun time if you decide to replace it. I recommend replacing it...ONLY if necessary. Besides, it's not to hard to get to if you have an issue with it later. Hope this helps. Good luck! -100
My dude - this is brilliant. Thanks for the inside look! Question: did you use a specific sequence for tightening down the oil pan (like you would with lug nuts) or did you just go around one bolt next to another? Your work is appreciated!
Christopher Czar Thanks! You're too kind. I did torque the oil pan nuts in a sequence to apply pressure evenly around the gasket. Basically, I started with the middle front and back and the go back and forth, tightening nuts, crossing the middle each time.
Great video and just what I'm seeing under my '99. Is there a common leak for CRV's around the distributor as well? I replaced the valve cover gasket and that plastic cam seal, but still have a slow leak somewhere around the distributor. Should I have changed something on that side while I had the valve cover off? Great video! Keep them coming for all of us DIYers.
The distributor o-ring typically leaks when it's old and brittle. Replacing it is easy enough when the distributor is removed. However an internal seal leak requires the distributor to be disassembled. #WatchJrGo has a good video on replacing this seal. Cheers!
Not consequently, no. The oil pan gasket was replaced because of a heavy oil leak. Head gaskets can leak oil too. And they can leak down the block and make the oil pan look suspect. Good luck! -100
Again, awesome video. Have you ever changed the rack and pinion on the CRV? Is that a DIY job? Looks like quite a job since it's really crammed in there, but like to do things myself if possible.
TheCowardlyLion Thanks for your kind words! [EDIT] Dunno what I initially was responding to but as to whether the steering rack is a DIY job, I'd say yes. Not as easy as this oil pan replacement, but doable...with a little patience. [end] The distributor has an o-ring around the base of the housing that leaks. In some cases, the distributor itself can leak internally and seep out between the cap and the housing. This leak runs down the distributor and can look like a bad o-ring. If the distributor is leaking internally, replacement is a more cost effective option as compared to rebuilding. Good luck and if you need some more pointers on this or anything else that I've yet to make a video of, thegqtech@gmail.com is my email. Cheers!
I just changed mine it is doable but there are some tight spots like trying to get the hose lines off the pinion which make it a pain especially trying to put them back in
Thanks, very helpful. I just got a new oil pan and gasket for my wife's 2000, that has 340k + miles.
Was going to take to dealer to do my 2000 CRV automatic, but after watching your video am going to DIY. THANK YOU!
How was?
Very helpful video. There aren’t many out here for this year CRV so it will come in handy. Thanks for posting. Don’t sweat the editing, the content is more valuable.
You're too kind!
Thanks for the encouragement!
-100
Looks like I'll be needing to do this soon to my 98 honda crv. Almost 200K miles! Thank you!
A lot of great tips, thank you!
Will be doing my 2001 soon. Very much appreciate this. THANK YOU!
Thanks man! Great video and love all the detail and tips!!!
Commentary perfectly depicts a Saturday night in the shop. lol.
Many thanks for the video really good and helpful. But a word of warning here if you do this yourself. I have just done mine twice and the reason is the tiny collets that are built into the gaskets. On the Honda original gasket and the aftermarket gasket that I purchased they have tiny collets that fit over the studs but only where the gasket is close to the flexplate/flywheel. I believe its there to stop you overtightening the gasket. What happened to me was that the gasket come away with the oil pan but left a collet stuck to the block on a stud which I did not see. So watch for it as it could save you a lot of work and expense.
Excellent vid mate really helping me a lot...
My wife has a year 2000 Honda CR-V with the 2.0l petrol engine.
Literally when oil is poured in it comes out the bottom near to where the sump plug is. It seems to run down the side of the oil pan next to where the plug is. The oil is dripping from above and to the left the plug somewhere as you look at it from the front.
Help doctor help 😱
If I remember correctly, those engines don't have an oil cooler...but double check (two hoses going to the base of the oil filter). The o-ring there is prone to failing and leaking profusely.
Seeing as you referenced it as a 'petrol' engine, I'm gonna hazard a guess that this CR-V isn't USDM. Nevertheless, if you clean off the area, and watch it while someone starts and runs the engine, pinpointing the leak should be easy enough.
That said, I hope that helps.
If you have further questions or wanna send pics of the area in question, thegqtech@gmail.com is my email address.
"Holla @ your boy!"
Best of luck!
-100
Thanks for the good job.
Great help...doing mine next.
Francisco Flores Great! I'm glad it's useful.
Rear end fluid change too.
Going to be taking on the oil pan change challenge for my 2000 crv. I was wondering what you were spraying on the surface mount for cleaning? Thanks! Would like to add very helpful video. I appreciate you posting and sharing.
Thanks! I'm glad it helps anyone attempting to perform the job themselves.
As for the surface cleaning, any non-chlorinated brake cleaning product would suffice.
Bon chance, mon ami!
-100
@@EKHondaMotive Thanks!
Just subbed to you.... keep the vids coming mate...
John Lavin-Ford Photography recommendation to your good self sir!
Thanks a bunch!😁
did u use any rtv?
Hi!
Yes. A small dollop where the gasket curves and meets sharp corners of the block...
...the corners where the gasket bends around the crank.
NOTE: be sure to remove all metal inserts that may have stuck on the studs from the old gasket.
Good luck.
Thank you appreciate it!
Just watch the video twice, my question is on the exhaust flange was their a gasket thier or you just bolted it back up as is and no exhaust leak?
Good eye!
I reused the old gasket and had no issue.
Its not uncommon for the gasket to be fit for reuse. However, be aware that many a time the corrosion buildup makes for a fun time if you decide to replace it.
I recommend replacing it...ONLY if necessary.
Besides, it's not to hard to get to if you have an issue with it later.
Hope this helps.
Good luck!
-100
My dude - this is brilliant. Thanks for the inside look! Question: did you use a specific sequence for tightening down the oil pan (like you would with lug nuts) or did you just go around one bolt next to another? Your work is appreciated!
Christopher Czar Thanks! You're too kind.
I did torque the oil pan nuts in a sequence to apply pressure evenly around the gasket.
Basically, I started with the middle front and back and the go back and forth, tightening nuts, crossing the middle each time.
Goog job men!
thank you very much. I will DIY myself now. Is it possible to do the job without taking the manifold?
Sam Sung Yes! You will have to undo the exhaust pipe from the manifold as shown...have fun!
Great video and just what I'm seeing under my '99. Is there a common leak for CRV's around the distributor as well? I replaced the valve cover gasket and that plastic cam seal, but still have a slow leak somewhere around the distributor. Should I have changed something on that side while I had the valve cover off? Great video! Keep them coming for all of us DIYers.
The distributor o-ring typically leaks when it's old and brittle. Replacing it is easy enough when the distributor is removed.
However an internal seal leak requires the distributor to be disassembled. #WatchJrGo has a good video on replacing this seal.
Cheers!
Question? If I change the oil pan. Do I have to change the head gasket as well?
Thanks
Not consequently, no.
The oil pan gasket was replaced because of a heavy oil leak.
Head gaskets can leak oil too. And they can leak down the block and make the oil pan look suspect.
Good luck!
-100
@@EKHondaMotive thanks!!
Again, awesome video. Have you ever changed the rack and pinion on the CRV? Is that a DIY job? Looks like quite a job since it's really crammed in there, but like to do things myself if possible.
TheCowardlyLion Thanks for your kind words!
[EDIT] Dunno what I initially was responding to but as to whether the steering rack is a DIY job, I'd say yes. Not as easy as this oil pan replacement, but doable...with a little patience. [end]
The distributor has an o-ring around the base of the housing that leaks.
In some cases, the distributor itself can leak internally and seep out between the cap and the housing. This leak runs down the distributor and can look like a bad o-ring.
If the distributor is leaking internally, replacement is a more cost effective option as compared to rebuilding.
Good luck and if you need some more pointers on this or anything else that I've yet to make a video of, thegqtech@gmail.com is my email.
Cheers!
I just changed mine it is doable but there are some tight spots like trying to get the hose lines off the pinion which make it a pain especially trying to put them back in
126am. Found this video searching the Google trying to find out if I can replace the steel oil pan with a aluminum oil pan on a 2001 crv.
I wouldn't...bracket mounts differ.
Was that an aftermarket oil pan and what brand?
Yes, yes it was.
I pick it up from Advanced Auto Parts (#notasponsor 🤣)
-100