How to Flood Solder and Anderson plug fitting | Jamie's Touring Solutions:
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- Опубликовано: 11 мар 2018
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Its a good idea to preload the wire with solder, that way you ensure proper penetration of solder into the cable (P.S. I am a 40 year Avionics Tech)
Good tip
Someone got but hurt over a very good tip. Anyways thanks for the advice.
@I'lleatyou What a strange person; is there anybody else up there that we can talk to?
I agree, should always pre-tin the wire so it's a much better joint
You are a person on low intelligence who can only express themselves in expletives. I'm so pleased I do not have to deal with ou in every day life. Good advice was being offered but you are incapable of realizing this.
You need to tin the wire first. If you don’t you are likely to end up with a dry joint and over time it will fail. To tin the wire you need to use a soldering iron and coat the exposed wires with solder, then mate this to the Anderson pin.
Thanks, that's a good tip
Really? the guy does it all day every day you'd think he'd know what he's doing!
this can be achieved by keeping the heat on the connector when you plunge the wire into the pool of solder, the solder will want to solidify near instantly, which will only connect to the outside of the wire, keeping the heat on will raise the temperature of the wire above melting point, and allow it to penetrate
if find the best way to tell is that if you can still pull the wire out of the connector, then the solder is molten, this is a way to gauge penetration. though it is difficult to know for certain because you cant see. so i recommend doing some trial runs, then cutting the wire open to see how you went for penetration
@@tazholio Not really, as by then all the flux has evaporated or burned off, and the solder won't take as well to the wire. Much better to carefully tin before connecting, being sure not to heat so much the solder runs up the wire under the insulation. Crimping is THE most reliable method, but this is a decent method I use so that plugs can be reused in a "bush" situation if needed.
exactly what i was thinking
I just did this using me gas barbecue flame out camping. Good one cheers and done my first Anderson plug.
Great technic. Something so simple yet it makes all the difference in the world.
I was really struggling to wire in an Anderson plug this morning... I was ready to throw my entire camper trailer in the bin until I saw your video. Replaced a merit socket in the fridge box with an Anderson plug. Now everything works again!
G'day @jaselynch, glad it helped. Just make sure you are using genuine anderson plugs. And remember they are a flush through mount and no need to have a cover if external of your camper. Cheers Linda & the JTS Team.
Cheers. Yep, using a genuine plug. Thanks again!
Great video that cleared up a few things I didn't know about those powerpole connectors
Thanks for your comment, most welcome
Thank you from Fallbrook, California!
I’ve used this technique for years and never had a fail. Good video.
Just got some anderson plugs for a portable solar panel. Never used these connectors before so cheers for the video, very straightforward.
Thanks. I did it this way and it worked for me. Getting the clips aligned and pushed in was not that easy, but eventually got it. I used a silver electrical solder which did the job nicely.
Glad it helped! Thanks for subscribing.
you highlight another omission from this "tutorial". Ive learnt over the years to line up both pins in the same orientation before "crimping". I'm not a flat earther and as an Industrial Electrician hold great faith in a properly torqued crimp.
Thank you. Very informative and easy to understand.
Most welcome.
Thanks for the information, well presented.
Thanks for watching!
Great video and very clear.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for subscribing, see you out on the tracks.
Thanks so much for this...Awesome!!
Great video, Well explained. The blow torch is ideal for this job Thanks Ross Tga NZ
Glad to help
Great video, thanks.
really help! Thank you so much!
Glad it helped!
That is awesome thanks so much
Excellent video! I used this for 4 poles today, so easy, came out excellent. I hope the solder holds up to a little motorcycle vibration. Not Harley shake apart type vibration, but regular road vibration and bumps.
Thanks for the feedback Duke. They should definitely hold up as this is our way of doing all our 50amp genuine anderson plugs. Safe travels
Well done!
Thanks :)
spot on
Coffee drinker Mate? saw those hands shaking eh, hahaha. nice work i learnt something very important today for the work I have to do on my Van conversion with lots of wiring, Thank you! Thumbs up
Happy to help
Wish I knew what I know now,i live totally off grid and the first panels and the upgrade I cut the Anderson plugs off and joined the panels with a central feed board.Well never too late to learn its Anderson plug time saving grace is I kept the plugs.Also didn't know about flood soldering great upload could just be ringing your company as I have to replace a few of the old tools,wire stripper,solder unit ect.Live at Lightning Ridge we tend to bush fix things here lol.
Sil Marillian wow, living totally off the grid and still connected to the internet.
@@777nexus7 Yep am on the last phone pole from a small country town here,could go satellite but my connection isn't all that bad
It helps to orient the connector blades the same way, and at the angle they will naturally fit into the housing without twisting the individual conductors. I had never heard the rationale for soldering them so they can be reused. I suppose to get good results it is best to get the old solder out of the connector, because most of the flux will have burned off in the initial use.
I believe Anderson recommend crimping for the most secure permanent connection. I buy enough of the connectors at once that it is not too costly to use a new one on the next project, and also for the occasional botched crimp job.
Fill the back with silicone and with a cap on the front it will be fairly waterproof but when connected to another plug not so waterproof. I like to presolder the wires too before inserting them into the hot solder just to be sure of a good connection.
It is not recommended to try and "waterproof" Anderson plugs, they are desigen to allow water to pass through them, cleaining out dirt and mud
Nice one! Saves on a very expensive crimping tool.
Yes it sure does.
Thank you 👍🏼👍🏼
Verrrrryyy nice!!
Thank you, happy results so far..why try and crimp these connectors? I agree, fill with solder and get a better conductivity esp. for large gauge wire
Hi Jamie I have found if you mark the clip and the wire in it's correct position in relation to the plug with a tecta before soldering
it will fit in much easier without needing to twist the wire and putting unnecessary pressure on the springs...
Thanks for the tip
Thank you.
You're welcome!
thanks so much :D
Awesome demo mate. I am thinking if some flux was used, might be an even better join? I love the idea you advise 8 B&S as opposed to the standard 6 B&S. I will do the same. I am from Vic, but when I visit my sister in Caboolture I may drop in to see you. Happy days mate.
G'day @strikemaster1. The solder we use has a flux core. And always welcome to drop in we are open Mon-Fri 8-5pm. Cheers Linda & the JTS Team
Do you have to worry about solder not being sucked into the wire unless you pre-solder only the end of the wire?
Perfect for the cheap copy Anderson plugs. The crimps themselves are thinner and split when crimped however the cheapies are great when soldered this way.
Afternoon Kevin. You can certainly crimp but we don’t on the 50amp the best connection is to flood solder and only genuine andersons are used and sold by our workshop. Thanks for the comment.
In the process of doing some for my trolling motor/batteries on my boat same wire your using. How good would that hold up for mate in a boat connection. Cheers
You have to use tinned cable /wire but this connection is great cause it reduces water sitting in the cable area. If crimped it produces a pocket where water can sit.
Cool video. What wire strippers are those?
We now have a dedicated DIY page jts12volt.com.au/diy/ where you will find the tools we use and here is a link to our latest video about those tools we use ruclips.net/video/-BSLl6wir0w/видео.html
Thanks for the video. Do you sell the 8BNS wire and Anderson plugs on your website? Cheers
The Anderson plugs and wire kits are on the website mate
jts12volt.com.au/product/the-jts-power-easy-cable-kit/
Got it.
Re-using is actually a good reason and that's often missed by people who discount the flood solder method. Good tips. But it's not water 'proof'; somewhat resistant to water; fine in light rain. But I wouldn't go driving into a river and expect no corrosion or eventual degradation in the circuit. Definitely will last a long time and they are very durable. But not 'proof".
Thats what lanotec or mx4 inox is for mate
Did my first flood solder contacts over 5 yrs ago,,, Still going strong....
G'day....that's awesome well done!!
This may be an odd question for you. I have a need to have an SB50 on one end and an SB175 on the other. Using a 6 gauge wire works well for the larger plug, but near impossible for the smaller SB50. Any recommendations? The reason is that I have a Titan Solar Generator that uses the SB50 and I need to attach a HSKY ELITE 24V BATTERY that uses the SB175.
G'day Don, we have done this before and it is a bit of a job to get it right. With the 50amp anderson we would only fill the cup half way of solder before placing the wire into the cup or you could crimp.
dude, what brand are those wire strippers. I have a similar pair but theyre shit on anything but the smallest of wire .
G'day the wire strippers can be found here : jts12volt.com.au/product/multifunction-ratchet-wire-stripper/
Where did you get that neat soldering gun?
That is just a simple butane torch, most hardware stores will have them. We can also supply them form the shop at JTS 1300 377 128
First rule of connectors…have a good physical connection before you solder
Do I have to fly all the way to Australia to buy that truck?
It would be worth it mate, take a few months off and explore the country while you are here.
Allows currents up to 120 amps. Rated for Hot Plugging up to 50 Amps
The Anderson plugs I buy from Jaycar have a hole at the base of the jacket on the pin so when attempting the technique here the hot solder pours out of said hole. I've tried crimping the hole shut but solder still escapes. Maybe different brand or non genuine Anderson Plugs?
Definately a non-genuine Anderson plug, we only use the genuine product at JTS. No copies
I get cheap ones off eBay which don't have this characteristic
Great job up until you put the cold cable into the solder. Good chance that the solder hasn't flowed into the core of the cable. Would be better to prepare tin the cable.
We were taught to dip the wire into the hot solder, lift the cable and really dip until the cable is well tinned with the solder flowing.
G'day Kezza, because we use a flux core solder and blow torch to melt the solder and quickly place the wire into it we find it tin's enough to give a good connection. We also check with every connection that we don't get a dry solder.
Whats the wire your using?
you can use a range from 6mm up to 6 gauge
I’ve always read that soldering creates a weak spot where the solder ends that can break with lots of vibration over time. Is this not the case?
G'day Jason, as far as we are aware we have never had a broken solder connection on an 50amp Anderson plug doing it this way. However when joining larger wires together we don't solder larger connections because they can become brittle, we crimp.
Can you please name the tools used and give us a link to purchase them? Thank you.
Afternoon all our tools are in our store jts12volt.com.au/product-category/tools/ The tools we sell are the ones the guys use in our workshop, they are used daily so of great quality. Hope this helps Linda
Better again if you can pre heat the copper cable.
I can see so many possible issues with that method
The workshop have been doing it this way for many years and yet to have issues if done correctly.
Do I use solder wire or resin solder wire
G'day Frank, we use Resin / Flux core solder wire in the workshop here
What strippers are those? Thanks
IRWIN VISE-GRIP 2078300 Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper, 8"
Is it stronger than crimping?
G'day, Generally yes however if using large gauge wire you have to crimp due to not getting enough solder in.
Is it as strong as a mechanical crimp?
G’day yes it is
How are they waterproof??
By not letting water in.
The connection he made is not. It's a good idea to use adhesive heat shrink over the connection to prevent water intrusion and corrosion/oxidation in the long run.
Flood soldering prevents the water intrusion.
JTSOffroad TV: Jamie's Touring Solutions it prevents water getting into the terminal but not wicking up the wire inside the insulation. Adhesive heat shrink is needed for that. Corrosion inside the the wire will increase resistance and heat eventually destroying the cable.
Yes, what strippers are you using?
IRWIN VISE-GRIP 2078300 Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper, 8"
Why solder as opposed to crimping?
G'day, we solder on Anderson plugs because they are a wash through connection and we don't want water to sit around the cable and corrode.
do not put too much solder in the cup. I learned this the hard way. It will spill over and glob at the end and you won't get it to insert into the plug.
Correct, about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way up the cup is perfect. It depends on the thickness of the wire you are placing in the cup.
@@JTS12Volt I did fine on the first one. It is the second one I boogered up. I'm keeping it as a monument, LoL
@@troy3456789 hahaha it is a fine art to getting the levels right. I enjoy heading into the workshop and learning also and yes have a couple I buggered up...Linda
grind out with a needle file?
If I knew this have to be soldered, probably I wouldn't buy them at all. Just ordered few and waiting for the package. My half of the wires are already installed on the van, in difficult position. So, no chance to solder.
You can also crimp the andersons, we do the soldering as it's a longer lasting solution for the jobs we have done.
Cold joint bad soldering. Wire should have been tinned first. Soldering 101.
Im new to soldering and i thought the same
Soldering 101 for splicing solder or soldering to a joint is correct. This is a flood solder procedure. You do not tinn the wire first as it increases your risk of a dry solder joint. This is raw wire into a flooded solder vat. Please do not tinn your wire first.
Wrong. Flood soldering doesn't need it Hmmmmm
they are designed to be crimped, why would you solder it. adding unnecessary resistance to the joint
The connections we do have been done for many years and never had any issues. Crimping is done at times, depends on the situation.
Missing: flux, tinning wire first.
Hi Libena, this is a flooded solder joint. Tinning the wire first and then added it later to flooded solder increases your risk of a dry solder joint causing resistance. In regards to Flux this is resin core solder, the flux is embeded into the solder. Thank you for your input
@@JTS12Volt Thanks. Why would it be dry if you put the torch on it for a minute? Wouldnt everything then flow together?
Didn't put any flux, theres no way the solder is deeply bonded with the wire
G'day, we use flux core solder for whenever we solder.
It's not water proof.
We mean by water proof is they are a wash through connection and when you flood solder you are not allowing water into the connection area as it's filled with solder. Its filled like a bucket, water won't sit under the connection out of sight.
do not do it like this guy.. flood the connector with solder.. then use a plumbers paste flux its acid based on the copper wire.. dip it in the bucket of flux.. then tin and solder the wire.. then heat the connector and push it in... then use heat shrink on the outter part so no strands come out
"flood the connector with solder" .. we did that, please watch the video again, now this comment "acid based on the copper wire" absolutely do not use acid based flux, use resin based solder, this comment "so no strands come out" also wrong, you should have no strands coming out if you are using the right sized lugs.If done correctly there should be no need for the extra expense of heat shrink, unless of course you are too rough to pay attention. Thank you for watching
Never use acid based flux on electrical wiring, it will corrode in no time. use a resin flux (resin cored solder)
@@brockstravels7586 you can use acid based if the wires are plated .. and not bare copper or copper wires that are hard to solder from oxidation.. you clean them off with water and baking soda mix...... use acid based flux on wires and battery terminals etc.. but never electronics use lead based on electronics.. been doing this for years it works fine... dont use lead free.. you want lead youll have to get it from china america is phasing it out.. if you see on cl that someone is selling lead solder snatch that up i got 5 lbs of lead solder for 15 bucks off a old guy that had old stock.. will last me a lifetime.. and lead with good acid i got off another old timer.. you wont find this stuff on ebay all the stuff is from china.... so if you see a garage sale snatch that shit up.... now electrical wiring on electronics dont use acid based.... i mean acid on plain battery terminals or joining wires outside of electronics... use good heat too... those wimpy soldering irons dont cut it for big wires torch or the old school sears soldering irons i have 3 of them... yes folks old school tools is the way to go there designed tough and strong this new soldering crap and stuff in general sucks so if you find a old mechanic snatch up his tools youll thank yourself when your cheap chinese junk breaks
@@jackoneill8585 Again, please watch the video again, The demonstration is not marine use, we use Copper wire, not tinned, as do 99% of the caravan and 4WD market, again you comment about acid based flux is not vaild the THIS video.