Excellent overview of that airline system Ray! This is just what I need for my shop. I’ve been on the lookout for a new airline for my shop and I think I’ll pick this up based on your review. Thanks for sharing all of the helpful info. 👍🏻
Abom79 Thanks Adam, this MaxLine system has been in use now for over four weeks and still no leaks and working great, looks great too! Looking forward to your install.
You can save a lot of money by using schedule 40 PVC irrigation pipe and fittings. Glue it all up and you're good to go. I installed this type of air system in my shop 10 years ago and have not had one leak since. I often leave it charged at 90 psi 24 hours day, 7 days a week. VERY ECONOMICAL AND DURABLE AIR LINE SYSTEM
Hello Leonard, I have heard of sch 40 PVC lasting trouble free for many years but I did not want to chance my kids or friends getting injured if there was a failure so I went with this RapidAir MaxLine system and am very happy with it! Thanks for your comments and for tuning in!
Dudes i gotta say this. I opened up Rays video because i am researching an air setup as well and when i saw him i said to myself: Dude this guy looks like Abom79 20 years from now. Lo and behold first comment here? LOL. I could not erase the grin off my face... He he.
Leonard Zielewski PVC compressed air systems are very dangerous. When the PVC fails, and it will fail as it ages and gets brittle, particularly if exposed to sunlight, it will explode sending sharp shrapnel everywhere. PVC is banned by code for good reason.
Thanks for information, seriously thinking about installing this system for my New Compressor, I have a 1/2" Galvanized pipe system now. Thanks again 👍🏻
This video is one of the finest productions that I have ever watched! Ray explained every detail in a plain English manner and coordinated his audio expertly with the video. Ray's no nonsense approach to making the video was excellent and as a result, I am convinced that the Rapid Air system is what I will now purchase for my shop. Kudos to Ray for his video and Rapid Air for their products.
I see that you made this 5 years ago, but for anyone watching recently... on your drops, just sister/scab and another board (Looks like 2x6?) next to the aluminum blocks. There is no need to put an aluminum plate behind the aluminum block. This will give you a solid backing to screw all four screws into the aluminum block. Cheers.
Hi Ray, well, what a nice system this has turned into!! Well done lad, you are gonna have all the PSI/CFM you need! I of course will gratefully steal your idea of the PEX distribution system for the my new garage! Nicely done! Looking forward to the next episode!!
Good review Ray. I really like the looks and function of this system. It looks very easy and quick to install. I've been dealing with tripping over air hoses running everywhere in my shop for way too long. I'm gonna have to spend the dough and get this system.
I have used nickel based anti-sieze on the fittings before tightening them up . That makes them turn very smoothly without the galling feeling when you tighten them up dry .
Nice installation! Kudos! I've never done any air line work, but had a thought. I think I'd consider extending the drains down below the aluminum fittings a few inches. My reasoning is that it would might be advantageous to let accumulated water/spooge collect in a short length of easily/cheaply replaced line; as opposed to those nice aluminum fittings. Anyway, just my .02¢ worth, cool videos, Thanks!
If you are running a commercial pressure system then those pressure ratings are a bit light on a hot day with the line in the attic. Of course it is fine for 99% of people only the outlaws like me would have trouble. lol
LTVoyager To be completely honest, I really did not have any issues installing the system. It was straight forward and installed very easily and better yet no leaks to date! I did all the bends by hand and it uncoiled pretty straight. The tubing is very easy to work with. Feel free to hit me up with any questions. Best Regards, Ray
Hey Mike, Total cost for the system with the additional fittings was just under $500, I feel it was a good investment for a top shelf air delivery system!
You must have spent some time installing that with as straight as your lines are. Mine aren't horrible, but they are nowhere near as straight as you got yours. How did you end up straightening them? I was also surprised to not have any leaks after installation. This is the best system I've seen or used IMO. Now that I've got my new 80 gallon and Maxair system, I honestly don't know how I've got by without it for so long. Looks great man! Your garage/shop is coming along nicely!
Thanks man! I did take a lot of time hand forming the MaxLine pipe using my hands and knee and still is not perfect but good enough. I was not spending another $150 for the straightening rollers from RapidAir for a one time use! Sounds like you are going to have plenty of air as well and remember, the air system will add a good 10 to 15 more gallons of air depending on the total length of you system.
Hello Ray, I really like your circumference install. Covers the territory well for any future drops. I built my addition dictated by the geography of space available so now I have to decide where to locate the machinery. That makes having a changeable system really nice as I shift tools. Let us know what you have planned or not planned for your interior surface (I assume since you have a/c you are going to insulate?). On another note, what kind of filter do you use on your shop vac or system to keep the oil in the chips from clogging the media? My pleated paper is not working so well. Good review on a useful system. Nice video. Take care. Doug
Hello Doug, Yes I will be insulating and closing in at some point, Thinking about using corrugated roof material where I will be grinding and welding. I will have to remove the drops I just installed for wall coverings and reinstall. As for my vac I use the rigid shop vac and line it with a black trash bag since the paper bag does not hold up to chips and oil very well.
I contacted the company after 2 catastrophic failures using the recommended fitting tightness. They told me despite the recommendation, tighten them as hard as you can pull a wrench. The fitting cannot be damaged from over tightening. They said tighten until it stops turning if needed.
Hi Ron, I did make mine pretty tight, I found that adding a little lube to the threads helped a lot! Tightening the fittings after a little oil made it smooth as silk and no leaks to date!
Hey Tom, I am very familiar with threaded pipe and one of the main reasons I did not go that direction with the full system. Good luck with chasing down your annoying leaks!
Perfect Tom, It's a great set up and you will really like it once your finished. A quick tip, add a little oil to the fittings nut when assembling so that the metal to metal contact is a lot smoother. Hit me up if you have any questions.
Thanks Ray. How do you filter out the oil and swarf from reaching the motor? That is where mine falls down. I have the steel tub so that is fine. Steel would work well indeed for a shop anywhere as well as the welding position. Only downside might be price. Take care. Doug
Hey Doug, The paper filter has a cotton sock on it that I change out from time to time but I still have to replace filters more often than normal. Its the the nature of oil and chips but well worth using the vac to clean up.
Ray, could you please, please, pull the volume in your editing software a smidge down? Because it's so high, and because of RUclips's compression, when on headphones (which is my personal issue and circumstance, i know) it's a bit difficult to hear some things once you lower the volume. It's just a small thing, not really all that important. Otherwise, an awesome video on a cool installation.
On a sidenote, good idea on radius bending the pipe, each time a T or a elbow is used, that's a reduction in pipe. I kind of miss the older, and now discontinued method of connecting air pipe where a small flange was inserted in to the tubing (very thin, so no reduction) and a sleeve would be compressed on top of it. Coupled with a nut, it would then screw on to a same ID fitting, thus, no reduction. One would think that they don't affect things that much, but on big installations, they do.
Oh and the tool is actually so that your pex-al pipe is squared, that little bulge is the part that spreads the pipe so it fits better. So in theory, even if you don't cut it perfectly straight, it will be straightened by the tool. It's really cool, i have the drill mounted version, where the bulge is on a separate, non rotating, sprung bit. Once you've inserted the pipe, it self centers on it and allows really crisp cuts. It's so good i haven't bothered in the last installations to even cut the pipe right, i let that tool do the work for me.
Thanks for all the great info! I will work on the Audio and did not realize was so high, it sounded fine during editing and should have reviewed it after posting it live. Thanks again for all the great input!
Nice video Ray! Does Rapidair guarantee the piping for any extended period of time? I think I might be worried about installing it in concrete...unrepairable.
dihskursiv I am not sure of the warranty. I would not have a problem installing the MaxLine in concrete but not the fittings, leave them exposed. You could also run it inside pvc pipe for extra protection!
Ray did you use or purchase the straightening device for your install? My concern with this is I will not be able to straighten the roll out and it may look sloppy.
I know moneys an issue, but are you insulating and putting up wall board (osb, plywood or drywall) of some kind on the insides of the studs/ceiling? If so, how do you plan on doing that with all of the stuff in the way?
I do plan on installing wall sheeting at some point and thinking about using corrugated metal in the grinding and welding areas with insulation and will have to remove everything installed but I did plan on doing that extra work. I feel the extra work is worth it to me to have everything in place before closing in the walls and ceiling.
Nice system.... How does it compare to copper rigid tubing in price? A big advantage of copper is you can oversize the pipe and gain extra air storage in the lines. Helped do my good friends shop that way, (auto shop), worked great, big building
Hi John, I have over $300 in just the 1" x 30' copper delivery system and paid a little over $38 for a ten foot stick of the 1" pipe plus fittings, solder, ball valves, 1/2", 3/4" copper pipe and brass fittings. The entire 3/4" RapidAir MaxLine system with additional fittings and outlets was just under $500 and have more than enough air for multiple users if needed. If I were to guess I am sure I would be just under $2000 range if I went with a all copper system. RapidAir does offer the MaxLine in 1" also but not in Master Kits so the cost jumps a bit.
Ray's Garage I just priced out a system for my 32’ x 48’ workshop. I plan to run a 3/4” loop around the ceiling with a drop in the center of each wall. This requires 210’ of pipe. I priced a both Maxline solution and an all copper solution. It turns out, the cost is almost identical at about $700 for each all in. I am leaning towards all copper mainly because I can install it myself. I don’t see any way to straighten and affix the Maxline while working 14’ in the air on a ladder. It looks like I’d be wrestling a python. At current prices, the copper pipe is about twice as much per foot as Maxline, but the Maxline fittings are what make the total cost nearly identical. I can buy copper for $1.80/foot and Maxline is about $1/foot on Amazon. The killer is the Maxline fittings which run $15-20 each. Most copper fittings are 1/10 the cost. For example, a Maxline tee is $21.95 on Amazon and a 3/4” copper tee is $1.69 at supply house.com. A simple Maxline straight adapter to NPT is $17.15 as compared to $1.45 for copper. I looked at Rapidair’s rigid aluminum pipe as that would be an easy solo install and the price was close to copper, again the fittings are pricey, but what killed that was the shipping cost of the 20’ pipes or the coupler cost if the shorter pipes were bought to save shipping cost.
Did you hand form the bends at corners or use an electricians conduit bender? You could probably just put some pieces of wood on each side of the stud to screw block into and not have to make the plate. So if you sheet the walls, did you allow room to get tubing on outside of sheeting?
Hello Fred, I hand formed the corner radius and did think about this before the install and was thinking about using crown molding to have access to the loop above after sheeting the walls, now for the corners I might need some ideas there, maybe there are corner radius moldings?
They do make this stuff called 'deco-sheild' that's used to conceal sprinkler pipe along walls that has been retro-fitted into existing building, but truthfully isn't that great looking! Maybe your idea of crown molding and then building little soffits in corners to conceal the parts that stick out because of the bends.
Ray how did you straighten the pipe? I've got 2 of the 3/4" kits waiting to be installed, I've heard the pipe is a PITA to get straightened out. Did you use some sort of jig or just by hand?
Jo Simon I hand straightened the MaxLine then tweaked it a little more after installed in the clips. I spaced the clips 4’ apart on the top loop and 3’ apart on the drops.
No need to waste your money on the pipe straightening system I did mine around the perimeter of 32 by 40 Shop just by using the clips on the wall snapping the line in and working my way down and unrolling the coil as I went along got it semi straight snapped it into the clips and then made some adjustments in between the clips by pushing down or up or in or out depending on what I needed and it came out very straight and I don't think you need two people to do this process either, then again I had a scissor lift to work off of being that my system was at around 14 feet. The system is excellent and easy to work with but the only thing I didn't care for was the fitting IDs are a hair smaller then the rest of the piping system. But in the end it all gets reduced down to either quarter or 3/8 anyway at the tool location so I guess a little smaller ID on the fittings really isn't going to make a big difference. I used all Ingersoll Rand 3/4 inch regulators and coalescing filters and all my fittings in the system non rapidair are all stainless steel not much more expensive than brass. On my drops I also faced the tee fitting in the loop up then used a 6 inch piece of pipe a 90-degree elbow looking over, another short piece just long enough to connect a second elbow looking down and then ran my drop down towards the ground. This creates a candy cane type Loop to keep any water in the circumference of the system from entering the drops. another nice thing about the rapid air system is you can direct bury it. I ran a second line off of a manifold with ball valves to isolate the different lines and ran it down through my block stem wall Underground all the way to my house approximately 90 feet away to feed my garage inside the house this way I don't have to listen to a compressor run in my house , it's 90 to 100 feet away in the garage. great video by the way one of the better ones I've seen on the rapid air system. nothing like a machinist / metal worker to do things the right way and usually Overkill but I wouldn't have it any other way. Nice job!👍
Loops are fine provided they return back to the source. Compressor out then back in. Compressor doesn't know the length of the line hence no peer drop. As far as your drops they are done incorrectly. The tee must be turned up not down. Water travels down not up. Reconfigure your drops and you won't have any water. Plan a drop in your loop for a water trap and you will have a near perfect Air system without the expense of a refrigerated drier. Nice try.
Lawrence Jones Thanks for the info but my system is near perfect less a dryer and have never had moisture in any of my lines, ever! My system is a continuous loop and perfectly balanced, so I’m not sure why you think it’s not. Best Regards, Ray
Great review! I am looking at purchasing this system. My only concern is that the fittings are a lot smaller in diameter. Is this an is issue with cfm? I’m worried that it will “bottle neck”. I need consistent volume for painting. I looked at the fast pipe but it is really expensive. I look forward to your reply. Thanks in advance.
Nick Carrasco Hello Nick, I do not think you will have flow issue with the 3/4” MaxLine System when painting but you could go up to the 1” MaxLine System. I would do a open line test for you if I could measure CFM but have no way to measure this test accurately. I would call RapidAir tech support, maybe they can give you more info. Best Regards, Ray
Ray Caniglia, in you opinion, do you think the diameter of the fittings would restrict the volume? I have always used 3/4” lines I’m just worried about the diameter of these fittings.
Hi Micheal, Yes that would have worked just fine and would have been easier! I enjoy machining parts to make things a little more interesting and it's amazing how many folks asked me to make these aluminum backing plates for them, even RapidAir loved them and might even be making them for the kits! Thanks for tuning in!
Why did you loop it back to the first T? Is this necessary? Could I just do two branches from 1st T? Looping the ends of the branches together will take a lot of extra pipe.
Hey Denny, Home Depot was out of brass 1/2" tee's last weekend and wanted to get the system charged. I will be replacing the steel tee the very reason of rust real soon! Thanks man!
That's a great question! I would think as long as the tubing and fittings are secure and not moved around too much it should be fine since the tubing is three layers, PEX white inner layer, aluminum center and blue PEX outer layer. The fittings bite on the inner and otter ring for good seal. My system to date has zero leaks!
Hill Top Machine Works Hello Tom, Yes, very happy with this system and highly recommend. To date no leaks and very easy to add drops. The fittings are a little pricy but I feel worth it. I ended up buying everything on Amazon, was the best deal at the time, compare pricing on eBay as well.
Thanks for the input Mitchell, I have a huge audio issue and having a hard time getting it right and do know I am a loud talker from many years of boxing and shooting without ear protection. I will work on it, thanks for tuning in!
Развлечения
Excellent overview of that airline system Ray! This is just what I need for my shop. I’ve been on the lookout for a new airline for my shop and I think I’ll pick this up based on your review. Thanks for sharing all of the helpful info. 👍🏻
Abom79 Thanks Adam, this MaxLine system has been in use now for over four weeks and still no leaks and working great, looks great too! Looking forward to your install.
You can save a lot of money by using schedule 40 PVC irrigation pipe and fittings. Glue it all up and you're good to go. I installed this type of air system in my shop 10 years ago and have not had one leak since. I often leave it charged at 90 psi 24 hours day, 7 days a week. VERY ECONOMICAL AND DURABLE AIR LINE SYSTEM
Hello Leonard, I have heard of sch 40 PVC lasting trouble free for many years but I did not want to chance my kids or friends getting injured if there was a failure so I went with this RapidAir MaxLine system and am very happy with it! Thanks for your comments and for tuning in!
Dudes i gotta say this. I opened up Rays video because i am researching an air setup as well and when i saw him i said to myself: Dude this guy looks like Abom79 20 years from now. Lo and behold first comment here? LOL. I could not erase the grin off my face... He he.
Leonard Zielewski PVC compressed air systems are very dangerous. When the PVC fails, and it will fail as it ages and gets brittle, particularly if exposed to sunlight, it will explode sending sharp shrapnel everywhere. PVC is banned by code for good reason.
Thanks for information, seriously thinking about installing this system for my New Compressor, I have a 1/2" Galvanized pipe system now.
Thanks again 👍🏻
It’s a great system and not one leak to date!!!
This video is one of the finest productions that I have ever watched! Ray explained every detail in a plain English manner and coordinated his audio expertly with the video. Ray's no nonsense approach to making the video was excellent and as a result, I am convinced that the Rapid Air system is what I will now purchase for my shop.
Kudos to Ray for his video and Rapid Air for their products.
Many Thanks Terry! To date not one leak and the system is as good as the day I installed it! The fittings are pricy but worth the upfront cost!
Nice review. Lots of good detail.
I see that you made this 5 years ago, but for anyone watching recently... on your drops, just sister/scab and another board (Looks like 2x6?) next to the aluminum blocks. There is no need to put an aluminum plate behind the aluminum block. This will give you a solid backing to screw all four screws into the aluminum block. Cheers.
Yes, you are correct. I did plan on closing in the walls one day so I just made the plates to be able to mount anywhere. Thanks for sharing your tip!
Nice install, Ray. Thanks for making the video - it should make life easier for me when I install mine...
Hope all is well!
Tom Z
Hi Ray, well, what a nice system this has turned into!! Well done lad, you are gonna have all the PSI/CFM you need! I of course will gratefully steal your idea of the PEX distribution system for the my new garage! Nicely done! Looking forward to the next episode!!
Many Thanks Patrick, I am very happy with this air system so far and no moisture or leaks!
Nice setup Ray.
Good deal. I love the rapid air I put in.
Thanks Randy, lets do your shop next!
Awesome job I just bought the max line now I totally understand after this video thanks ray
It's a great system and has been leak free for over two years now!
👏👏👏👏👏
Thanks Ray, I'm figuring a parts list right now.
Nice work on the air line installation Ray. I used a similar setup made by Aircom in the 1” tubing size.
Mike
Good review Ray. I really like the looks and function of this system. It looks very easy and quick to install. I've been dealing with tripping over air hoses running everywhere in my shop for way too long. I'm gonna have to spend the dough and get this system.
Thanks, I wanted to avoid air hoses on the floor as much as possible but still have a very usable system.
Just subscribed because of your attention to detail. I feel at home.
Thank you for your kind works Harvey!
Good stuff Ray, enjoyed!
ATB, Robin
Thanks Robin, So far I am very happy with this system!
Nicely presented!
Thanks, Its been a great system to date and still no leaks!
Nice clean install but I wouldn't have expected anything less. Nice job Ray!
Thanks Reid, I am very happy with the system so far plus its expandable too!
Well done. Helps clear some of the fog.
Thanks for your time. Those of us who are new to this system can use the unbiases approach.
So far I am still very happy with this system and no leaks to date!
I have used nickel based anti-sieze on the fittings before tightening them up . That makes them turn very smoothly without the galling feeling when you tighten them up dry .
Thanks Ray, I have a kit coming this week and look forward to installing per your tips. Yuchol
Feel free to hit me up with any questions, great system!
Hard to get better than the best!!...nice!
Thanks Chuck, I am really happy with the system so far!
Hi Ray, there is nothing cheap inthis shop... lol
When I grow up I want to be a RapidAir System... lol
Looks real clean...!!!!
Top shelf .
The radius corners are better for max air flow (CFM, not pressure).
very nice!!
Thanks Jeff, Its been a great system so far and i now have air for days man!
Nice installation! Kudos! I've never done any air line work, but had a thought. I think I'd consider extending the drains down below the aluminum fittings a few inches. My reasoning is that it would might be advantageous to let accumulated water/spooge collect in a short length of easily/cheaply replaced line; as opposed to those nice aluminum fittings. Anyway, just my .02¢ worth, cool videos, Thanks!
Insanely nice.
Many Thanks John, I am very happy with this system so far!
If you are running a commercial pressure system then those pressure ratings are a bit light on a hot day with the line in the attic. Of course it is fine for 99% of people only the outlaws like me would have trouble. lol
Would have been nice to see some of the installation challenges in unrolling and installing the coiled tubing.
LTVoyager To be completely honest, I really did not have any issues installing the system. It was straight forward and installed very easily and better yet no leaks to date! I did all the bends by hand and it uncoiled pretty straight. The tubing is very easy to work with. Feel free to hit me up with any questions. Best Regards, Ray
lOOK,S GREAT & EXPENSIVE.
Hey Mike, Total cost for the system with the additional fittings was just under $500, I feel it was a good investment for a top shelf air delivery system!
Good to know, congrats on this set up. I want to see the can crusher on a drop.
Thanks Mark, I will crush a few cans for you in the next video buddy so I better drink a few beers before then!
Nice system. Mine has been sitting in the box too long. Maybe ill install it this winter. Chris
Hey Chris, Get on it brother, take your time installing and you will be very happy with this system!
I like that the wall outlets have a drain on them
Oh yea, I am sure they will come in handy to drain the moisture from time to time.
I knew you wouldn't be happy with those outlet blocks being off-center. Everything Ray does is straight, level or plumb!
You must have spent some time installing that with as straight as your lines are. Mine aren't horrible, but they are nowhere near as straight as you got yours. How did you end up straightening them? I was also surprised to not have any leaks after installation. This is the best system I've seen or used IMO. Now that I've got my new 80 gallon and Maxair system, I honestly don't know how I've got by without it for so long. Looks great man! Your garage/shop is coming along nicely!
Thanks man! I did take a lot of time hand forming the MaxLine pipe using my hands and knee and still is not perfect but good enough. I was not spending another $150 for the straightening rollers from RapidAir for a one time use! Sounds like you are going to have plenty of air as well and remember, the air system will add a good 10 to 15 more gallons of air depending on the total length of you system.
Hello Ray, I really like your circumference install. Covers the territory well for any future drops. I built my addition dictated by the geography of space available so now I have to decide where to locate the machinery. That makes having a changeable system really nice as I shift tools. Let us know what you have planned or not planned for your interior surface (I assume since you have a/c you are going to insulate?). On another note, what kind of filter do you use on your shop vac or system to keep the oil in the chips from clogging the media? My pleated paper is not working so well. Good review on a useful system. Nice video. Take care. Doug
Hello Doug, Yes I will be insulating and closing in at some point, Thinking about using corrugated roof material where I will be grinding and welding. I will have to remove the drops I just installed for wall coverings and reinstall. As for my vac I use the rigid shop vac and line it with a black trash bag since the paper bag does not hold up to chips and oil very well.
I contacted the company after 2 catastrophic failures using the recommended fitting tightness. They told me despite the recommendation, tighten them as hard as you can pull a wrench. The fitting cannot be damaged from over tightening. They said tighten until it stops turning if needed.
Hi Ron, I did make mine pretty tight, I found that adding a little lube to the threads helped a lot! Tightening the fittings after a little oil made it smooth as silk and no leaks to date!
who ever bad mouthed ya dont know shit ray id trust your word and im a skeptical jerk! thanks for sharing brother.
Thanks man, your kind words go a long way my friend!
Looks good. I have a nagging small leak on my black pipe line I need to chase down.
Hey Tom, I am very familiar with threaded pipe and one of the main reasons I did not go that direction with the full system. Good luck with chasing down your annoying leaks!
I know this is an old video, but going the same route in my new shop. Bought 2 of the 100 ft kits.
Perfect Tom, It's a great set up and you will really like it once your finished. A quick tip, add a little oil to the fittings nut when assembling so that the metal to metal contact is a lot smoother. Hit me up if you have any questions.
Ray's Garage will do thanks.
Cool system Ray, are the fittings reusable? Or do the crush rings consume in the process?
Hey Stan, Thanks bud! Yes fittings are reusable and did test this as well. Thanks for tuning in!
I replaced a whole bunch of my quick couplers with those same kind.
Right on Ken, I am sure you are very happy with them as I am!
Thanks Ray. How do you filter out the oil and swarf from reaching the motor? That is where mine falls down. I have the steel tub so that is fine. Steel would work well indeed for a shop anywhere as well as the welding position. Only downside might be price. Take care. Doug
Hey Doug, The paper filter has a cotton sock on it that I change out from time to time but I still have to replace filters more often than normal. Its the the nature of oil and chips but well worth using the vac to clean up.
Lookin good Ray. Is it cooling down for you yet. It has here now 5 months of rain.
Bill from Seattle.
Hello Bill, Yes it has cooled down and now in the 80's during the day and has been a pleasure to work in to say the least! Try and stay dry my friend!
Ray, could you please, please, pull the volume in your editing software a smidge down? Because it's so high, and because of RUclips's compression, when on headphones (which is my personal issue and circumstance, i know) it's a bit difficult to hear some things once you lower the volume. It's just a small thing, not really all that important.
Otherwise, an awesome video on a cool installation.
On a sidenote, good idea on radius bending the pipe, each time a T or a elbow is used, that's a reduction in pipe. I kind of miss the older, and now discontinued method of connecting air pipe where a small flange was inserted in to the tubing (very thin, so no reduction) and a sleeve would be compressed on top of it. Coupled with a nut, it would then screw on to a same ID fitting, thus, no reduction. One would think that they don't affect things that much, but on big installations, they do.
Oh and the tool is actually so that your pex-al pipe is squared, that little bulge is the part that spreads the pipe so it fits better. So in theory, even if you don't cut it perfectly straight, it will be straightened by the tool. It's really cool, i have the drill mounted version, where the bulge is on a separate, non rotating, sprung bit. Once you've inserted the pipe, it self centers on it and allows really crisp cuts. It's so good i haven't bothered in the last installations to even cut the pipe right, i let that tool do the work for me.
Thanks for all the great info! I will work on the Audio and did not realize was so high, it sounded fine during editing and should have reviewed it after posting it live. Thanks again for all the great input!
Nice video Ray! Does Rapidair guarantee the piping for any extended period of time? I think I might be worried about installing it in concrete...unrepairable.
dihskursiv I am not sure of the warranty. I would not have a problem installing the MaxLine in concrete but not the fittings, leave them exposed. You could also run it inside pvc pipe for extra protection!
Ray did you use or purchase the straightening device for your install? My concern with this is I will not be able to straighten the roll out and it may look sloppy.
Erik Keenan Hello Erik, I straightened and made the corner radius by hand. I did not want to spend over $100 for something I used once.
I know moneys an issue, but are you insulating and putting up wall board (osb, plywood or drywall) of some kind on the insides of the studs/ceiling? If so, how do you plan on doing that with all of the stuff in the way?
I do plan on installing wall sheeting at some point and thinking about using corrugated metal in the grinding and welding areas with insulation and will have to remove everything installed but I did plan on doing that extra work. I feel the extra work is worth it to me to have everything in place before closing in the walls and ceiling.
Nice! I'm looking to do a similar system. Which company makes your garage roll up door?
Thanks Pedro! Porvene Doors, www.porvenedoors.com/ is the brand of my roll up. Series 300 flat slats
Nice nice video what welder do you have
Thanks Greg, I have a Miller Syncrowave 185 TIG and Millermatic 180 MIG, oldies but good!
Nice system.... How does it compare to copper rigid tubing in price? A big advantage of copper is you can oversize the pipe and gain extra air storage in the lines. Helped do my good friends shop that way, (auto shop), worked great, big building
Hi John, I have over $300 in just the 1" x 30' copper delivery system and paid a little over $38 for a ten foot stick of the 1" pipe plus fittings, solder, ball valves, 1/2", 3/4" copper pipe and brass fittings. The entire 3/4" RapidAir MaxLine system with additional fittings and outlets was just under $500 and have more than enough air for multiple users if needed. If I were to guess I am sure I would be just under $2000 range if I went with a all copper system. RapidAir does offer the MaxLine in 1" also but not in Master Kits so the cost jumps a bit.
Ray's Garage I just priced out a system for my 32’ x 48’ workshop. I plan to run a 3/4” loop around the ceiling with a drop in the center of each wall. This requires 210’ of pipe. I priced a both Maxline solution and an all copper solution. It turns out, the cost is almost identical at about $700 for each all in. I am leaning towards all copper mainly because I can install it myself. I don’t see any way to straighten and affix the Maxline while working 14’ in the air on a ladder. It looks like I’d be wrestling a python. At current prices, the copper pipe is about twice as much per foot as Maxline, but the Maxline fittings are what make the total cost nearly identical. I can buy copper for $1.80/foot and Maxline is about $1/foot on Amazon. The killer is the Maxline fittings which run $15-20 each. Most copper fittings are 1/10 the cost. For example, a Maxline tee is $21.95 on Amazon and a 3/4” copper tee is $1.69 at supply house.com. A simple Maxline straight adapter to NPT is $17.15 as compared to $1.45 for copper. I looked at Rapidair’s rigid aluminum pipe as that would be an easy solo install and the price was close to copper, again the fittings are pricey, but what killed that was the shipping cost of the 20’ pipes or the coupler cost if the shorter pipes were bought to save shipping cost.
Did you hand form the bends at corners or use an electricians conduit bender? You could probably just put some pieces of wood on each side of the stud to screw block into and not have to make the plate. So if you sheet the walls, did you allow room to get tubing on outside of sheeting?
Good question, Fred.
Hello Fred, I hand formed the corner radius and did think about this before the install and was thinking about using crown molding to have access to the loop above after sheeting the walls, now for the corners I might need some ideas there, maybe there are corner radius moldings?
They do make this stuff called 'deco-sheild' that's used to conceal sprinkler pipe along walls that has been retro-fitted into existing building, but truthfully isn't that great looking! Maybe your idea of crown molding and then building little soffits in corners to conceal the parts that stick out because of the bends.
Looks very similar to flex gas line or sealtite.
Ray how did you straighten the pipe? I've got 2 of the 3/4" kits waiting to be installed, I've heard the pipe is a PITA to get straightened out. Did you use some sort of jig or just by hand?
Jo Simon I hand straightened the MaxLine then tweaked it a little more after installed in the clips. I spaced the clips 4’ apart on the top loop and 3’ apart on the drops.
No need to waste your money on the pipe straightening system I did mine around the perimeter of 32 by 40 Shop just by using the clips on the wall snapping the line in and working my way down and unrolling the coil as I went along got it semi straight snapped it into the clips and then made some adjustments in between the clips by pushing down or up or in or out depending on what I needed and it came out very straight and I don't think you need two people to do this process either, then again I had a scissor lift to work off of being that my system was at around 14 feet. The system is excellent and easy to work with but the only thing I didn't care for was the fitting IDs are a hair smaller then the rest of the piping system. But in the end it all gets reduced down to either quarter or 3/8 anyway at the tool location so I guess a little smaller ID on the fittings really isn't going to make a big difference. I used all Ingersoll Rand 3/4 inch regulators and coalescing filters and all my fittings in the system non rapidair are all stainless steel not much more expensive than brass. On my drops I also faced the tee fitting in the loop up then used a 6 inch piece of pipe a 90-degree elbow looking over, another short piece just long enough to connect a second elbow looking down and then ran my drop down towards the ground. This creates a candy cane type Loop to keep any water in the circumference of the system from entering the drops. another nice thing about the rapid air system is you can direct bury it. I ran a second line off of a manifold with ball valves to isolate the different lines and ran it down through my block stem wall Underground all the way to my house approximately 90 feet away to feed my garage inside the house this way I don't have to listen to a compressor run in my house , it's 90 to 100 feet away in the garage. great video by the way one of the better ones I've seen on the rapid air system. nothing like a machinist / metal worker to do things the right way and usually Overkill but I wouldn't have it any other way. Nice job!👍
Loops are fine provided they return back to the source. Compressor out then back in. Compressor doesn't know the length of the line hence no peer drop. As far as your drops they are done incorrectly. The tee must be turned up not down. Water travels down not up. Reconfigure your drops and you won't have any water. Plan a drop in your loop for a water trap and you will have a near perfect Air system without the expense of a refrigerated drier. Nice try.
Lawrence Jones Thanks for the info but my system is near perfect less a dryer and have never had moisture in any of my lines, ever! My system is a continuous loop and perfectly balanced, so I’m not sure why you think it’s not. Best Regards, Ray
Some people just have to criticize everything you do but can’t do anything themselves. 🤬
Great review! I am looking at purchasing this system. My only concern is that the fittings are a lot smaller in diameter. Is this an is issue with cfm? I’m worried that it will “bottle neck”. I need consistent volume for painting. I looked at the fast pipe but it is really expensive. I look forward to your reply. Thanks in advance.
Nick Carrasco Hello Nick, I do not think you will have flow issue with the 3/4” MaxLine System when painting but you could go up to the 1” MaxLine System. I would do a open line test for you if I could measure CFM but have no way to measure this test accurately. I would call RapidAir tech support, maybe they can give you more info.
Best Regards,
Ray
Ray Caniglia, in you opinion, do you think the diameter of the fittings would restrict the volume? I have always used 3/4” lines I’m just worried about the diameter of these fittings.
Nick Carrasco As long as your compressor can keep up you will be fine with the 3/4” system and don’t go smaller than a 3/8” ID air hoses.
If you use PVC you have to use at least Schedule 80. That is not cheap.
Why not just cut a two by four the length of the outlet. The then screw it to your studs for the mounting
Hi Micheal, Yes that would have worked just fine and would have been easier! I enjoy machining parts to make things a little more interesting and it's amazing how many folks asked me to make these aluminum backing plates for them, even RapidAir loved them and might even be making them for the kits! Thanks for tuning in!
Why did you loop it back to the first T? Is this necessary?
Could I just do two branches from 1st T?
Looping the ends of the branches together will take a lot of extra pipe.
Hi Steven, I looped the air system together to balance the air flow so that all drops provide the same volume of air. It is not necessary.
@@RaysGarage Thanks!
All that work and you put a steel fitting in your loop? Come on Ray! Rust!!
Hey Denny, Home Depot was out of brass 1/2" tee's last weekend and wanted to get the system charged. I will be replacing the steel tee the very reason of rust real soon! Thanks man!
Just saying, pal. Not picking your work apart. Great job so far!
How would the tube hold up in service truck in hot and cold weather in the North?
That's a great question! I would think as long as the tubing and fittings are secure and not moved around too much it should be fine since the tubing is three layers, PEX white inner layer, aluminum center and blue PEX outer layer. The fittings bite on the inner and otter ring for good seal. My system to date has zero leaks!
@@RaysGarage ok
Did the system hold up well ?
Yes, to date not one leak! Excellent system!
@@RaysGarage thanks for the information 👍
Hey Ray you still happy with this product? Since I am building a new shop I am considering going with this set up.
Hill Top Machine Works Hello Tom, Yes, very happy with this system and highly recommend. To date no leaks and very easy to add drops. The fittings are a little pricy but I feel worth it. I ended up buying everything on Amazon, was the best deal at the time, compare pricing on eBay as well.
Ray's Garage Awesome thanks.
You really need to lower the volume of your videos. Or else quit yelling at the camera. It distorts the audio and makes watching impossible.
Thanks for the input Mitchell, I have a huge audio issue and having a hard time getting it right and do know I am a loud talker from many years of boxing and shooting without ear protection. I will work on it, thanks for tuning in!