Let me start by saying I’ve been an Aircraft Technician for over 35 years, I have several FAA Licenses that qualify me to be anal about everything. We only use air tools because of explosion hazards so I have a few suggestions, should be easy corrections. First,Nice shop and expensive CNC tools, and nice install but few big mistakes. On compressed air system water is biggest problem. 1. You hooked a beautiful Quincy Screw Compressor to a $40 PRV Filter. Every tool downstream is going to be relying on that cheap PRV Filter. Don’t buy crap from Home Depot or Amazon. Replace it with a quality one like HANKINSON. My home 2 car garage shop compressor is connected to 3 HANKINSON Water, Oil, Air Dryer filters before it tees off to shop. 2. From Compressor to Filters then tee into shop Air Line on the Horizontal with a 24” Vertical Water Trap on the 6:00 Bottom port. 3. While level Blue pipes look good, they have water condensation in them. Ideally you would pitch the Lines 1/4”/ ft to drain water to the Sumps. 4. Every Low point Tool Port should have a Water Drain Valve. 5 Compressor Tank should have a Automatic Water Drain Valve. 6. Drain the Water Sumps daily.
Hi Patrick, Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching. Sounds like some very good tips. To respond specifically to your first number 1 point. Yes it is a very cheap "filter" connected to the nice rotary screw air compressor but I'm simply using that as my air regulator to bring the pressure from compressor to my entire shop to the desired level. I think I'm at 120 psi or so. The compressor isn't easily adjusted and runs a little higher than what my shop needs. The quincy QGS has the refrigerated air dryer built in that should prevent moisture or oil from entering the system but that little cheap filter also acts as a great visual for me to keep and eye on and spot any problems if they happen. Yes, I could get a better brand regardless, that's not a bad suggestion. Also in regards to pitching the lines AND providing a water trap...all good points. I haven't found any moister in any of my lines ever since setting this up. In addition just about every tool I do plug in downstream also has their own filters and regulators where they connect to air. Again, I do not rely on these to clean dirty or wet air but I just use them as a good visual to see if I ever have any problems. None of them have every collected any moister or debris. (Knocks on wood.) Thanks again for watching!
Good video. Interesting you mention wanting your pipe perfectly level. I typically run my pipe with a bit of fall toward the drain/blow out. Since water condenses in the airline as the compressed air cools, it needs to have a way out. Putting some slant in the line lets the water run to the drain to be blown out.
I'm sure that can help. I haven't had any issues. Knock on wood... I haven't had any moisture in the line to speak of at all at any connection point. I have clear traps on all machines in our showroom and again, thankful I've never seen a drop of oil, debris, or water in any of the lines.
Hello Switzerland here, I am always amazed at the use of two types of sealant for thread joints. Normally, joint paste is sufficient just like teflon for small diameters. But putting the two together increases the risk of slipping in the thread, which should be avoided at all costs with teflon. A good seal must be over the entire depth of the thread. So either one or the other but certainly not both together. Also remember to scratch the threads using a hacksaw blade to prevent the teflon from slipping when winding it, as always clockwise or counterclockwise in the case of reverse threading.
Thanks for the comment. I believe the instructions said to use both so I just followed. A quick search online I can see it's a hotly debated topic. Thankfully I haven't noticed or heard any leaks.
Nice clean job! I was wondering why you put the water separator at the compressor end. Every video I've watched on youtube has done it that way. I would have suggested putting it way down the line to give the air time to cool and drop the water. Very nice looking compressor btw.
This system already has a built in refrigerated air dryer to remove moister and oil, dirt, or any other debris. It's not so much a water separator as much as it is a pressure regulator. I wanted to regulate the pressure to the entire system so you must do that at the compressor outlet spot. Thanks for watching!
looks like a beginner's guide to doing pushfit also you could of used the pipes above as a guide to keeping your fittings straight, measuring down from them
I think the main reason people go with Fastpipe type setups over copper is not cost but the ease of use to install and setup. Most people don't know how to sweat copper pipe or have the proper tools. With these Fastpipe setups just about anyone can install with great results. If I can do it.... you can do it.
It was probably half that price when we installed years ago in our showroom. But this is a hard aluminum pipe with all the fittings. Very high quality. Years later and still ZERO LEAKS! I'm very impressed. Also, they offer a flexible pipe option but it comes in coils and you straighten it yourself the best you can. I just really liked the solid straight pipe look and quality.
I thought this was informative, thank you. However, it would be more helpful to post a list of the products you purchased along with the sites you purchased them from. You could become a Amazon Affiliate and make money for others who make purchases off their site. I made an extra 4k last year this way and I posted the videos years ago, they are still paying me.
Here is an example... Rapidair K7220 Push Button Safety Air Quick Coupler, 1/4 FNPT, Black Rapidair www.amazon.com/dp/B07B1G3L6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_M6FPF9X4NSANTNPZ0A1M
I haven't tried this in while. I think it will eventually unload but I would think it should hold for at least 24 hours. Something new to test this week!
Their 3/4" coil line is much much more of a challenge. You are snapping them together just like a Sharkbite fitting which anyone can do well. The coil line deforms enough and the 3/4 size is substantial enough that getting them to slide into the fittings (mine were metal) took a lot of force even with conduit lubricant! Using their tool (very different from yours) you have to ream them thoroughly or you will be out of round and not chamfered which will not allow the 'O' ring to slide into the pipe. Even doing that it was difficult to get enough grip to apply the sufficient pressure to seat the pipe into the compression fitting. Their fittings are extremely overpriced. You made the right choice on getting the straight pipe if you live where they can ship that length. I don't. Straightening is not that easy or fun with the coil line. The saving grace on the 1/2" system and drops is standard plastic push to fit fittings work quite well, not so with the 3/4 as far as I can find out at this time. Also normal pipe thread manifolds work with the system. Take care. Doug
Let me start by saying I’ve been an Aircraft Technician for over 35 years, I have several FAA Licenses that qualify me to be anal about everything. We only use air tools because of explosion hazards so I have a few suggestions, should be easy corrections. First,Nice shop and expensive CNC tools, and nice install but few big mistakes. On compressed air system water is biggest problem. 1. You hooked a beautiful Quincy Screw Compressor to a $40 PRV Filter. Every tool downstream is going to be relying on that cheap PRV Filter. Don’t buy crap from Home Depot or Amazon. Replace it with a quality one like HANKINSON. My home 2 car garage shop compressor is connected to 3 HANKINSON Water, Oil, Air Dryer filters before it tees off to shop. 2. From Compressor to Filters then tee into shop Air Line on the Horizontal with a 24” Vertical Water Trap on the 6:00 Bottom port. 3. While level Blue pipes look good, they have water condensation in them. Ideally you would pitch the Lines 1/4”/ ft to drain water to the Sumps. 4. Every Low point Tool Port should have a Water Drain Valve. 5 Compressor Tank should have a Automatic Water Drain Valve. 6. Drain the Water Sumps daily.
Hi Patrick,
Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.
Sounds like some very good tips.
To respond specifically to your first number 1 point. Yes it is a very cheap "filter" connected to the nice rotary screw air compressor but I'm simply using that as my air regulator to bring the pressure from compressor to my entire shop to the desired level. I think I'm at 120 psi or so. The compressor isn't easily adjusted and runs a little higher than what my shop needs.
The quincy QGS has the refrigerated air dryer built in that should prevent moisture or oil from entering the system but that little cheap filter also acts as a great visual for me to keep and eye on and spot any problems if they happen.
Yes, I could get a better brand regardless, that's not a bad suggestion.
Also in regards to pitching the lines AND providing a water trap...all good points.
I haven't found any moister in any of my lines ever since setting this up. In addition just about every tool I do plug in downstream also has their own filters and regulators where they connect to air. Again, I do not rely on these to clean dirty or wet air but I just use them as a good visual to see if I ever have any problems. None of them have every collected any moister or debris. (Knocks on wood.)
Thanks again for watching!
Good video. Interesting you mention wanting your pipe perfectly level. I typically run my pipe with a bit of fall toward the drain/blow out. Since water condenses in the airline as the compressed air cools, it needs to have a way out. Putting some slant in the line lets the water run to the drain to be blown out.
I'm sure that can help. I haven't had any issues.
Knock on wood... I haven't had any moisture in the line to speak of at all at any connection point. I have clear traps on all machines in our showroom and again, thankful I've never seen a drop of oil, debris, or water in any of the lines.
Those double tap release ends are slick! I'll have to make sure to add those.
yes probably one of my favorite additions to the new shop. I use them all the time and so much better and safer than traditional!
Nice video. Thank you for sharing it, had some good tips. I just ordered my matching blue jumper hoses etc from McMaster Carr too.
They are great! Enjoy. Thanks for watching.
Hello Switzerland here, I am always amazed at the use of two types of sealant for thread joints. Normally, joint paste is sufficient just like teflon for small diameters. But putting the two together increases the risk of slipping in the thread, which should be avoided at all costs with teflon. A good seal must be over the entire depth of the thread. So either one or the other but certainly not both together. Also remember to scratch the threads using a hacksaw blade to prevent the teflon from slipping when winding it, as always clockwise or counterclockwise in the case of reverse threading.
Thanks for the comment. I believe the instructions said to use both so I just followed. A quick search online I can see it's a hotly debated topic. Thankfully I haven't noticed or heard any leaks.
Nice clean job! I was wondering why you put the water separator at the compressor end. Every video I've watched on youtube has done it that way. I would have suggested putting it way down the line to give the air time to cool and drop the water. Very nice looking compressor btw.
This system already has a built in refrigerated air dryer to remove moister and oil, dirt, or any other debris. It's not so much a water separator as much as it is a pressure regulator. I wanted to regulate the pressure to the entire system so you must do that at the compressor outlet spot. Thanks for watching!
looks great top line
👍
Didn’t see the link to the kit in the description though. Nice job!
I'll see if I can add it.. Must have missed it. Thank you.
I Didnt find the link. Great job on the video. Regards from Ody Slim
what link are you looking for?
looks like a beginner's guide to doing pushfit also you could of used the pipes above as a guide to keeping your fittings straight, measuring down from them
I don't believe you mentioned what lubricant you used for the pipes to ease them into the fittings. Can you tell us?
Good job! Great work!
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks for the video, looking to setup up a new shop with air lines. 12 months on, how is it holding up?
I'm amazed. Zero issues. Zero leaks. Zero moisture in the lines. I could not have wished for more!
Is FastPipe tubing the same as copper tube size? Or a lot cheaper?
I think the main reason people go with Fastpipe type setups over copper is not cost but the ease of use to install and setup. Most people don't know how to sweat copper pipe or have the proper tools. With these Fastpipe setups just about anyone can install with great results.
If I can do it.... you can do it.
$500???!!!!! For just the RapidAir kit! Holy crap. This can be made with PEX for less than $140
It was probably half that price when we installed years ago in our showroom.
But this is a hard aluminum pipe with all the fittings. Very high quality.
Years later and still ZERO LEAKS! I'm very impressed.
Also, they offer a flexible pipe option but it comes in coils and you straighten it yourself the best you can. I just really liked the solid straight pipe look and quality.
as i get it on ebay or amazon, the aluminum tobos. Thank you..! why? I want a kit just like you bought it for my 3/4 or 1 "workshop.
Sorry for my late reply. I now have a link in the video description for the kit I purchased.
not sure you used enough pipe dope... ;)
I thought this was informative, thank you. However, it would be more helpful to post a list of the products you purchased along with the sites you purchased them from. You could become a Amazon Affiliate and make money for others who make purchases off their site. I made an extra 4k last year this way and I posted the videos years ago, they are still paying me.
Very smart!
I am curious where this system is Manufactured?
Soap and water, works .
what are those couplers with one hand operation called
Here is an example... Rapidair K7220 Push Button Safety Air Quick Coupler, 1/4 FNPT, Black Rapidair www.amazon.com/dp/B07B1G3L6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_M6FPF9X4NSANTNPZ0A1M
Hello, how's the airline system working out? I need to plumb an 40'x80' shop sometime.
Zero issues. I am very impressed. Could not be happier.
Nice system. Just close off the valve and the 50 should stay. If it doesn’t there is an it leak.
I haven't tried this in while. I think it will eventually unload but I would think it should hold for at least 24 hours. Something new to test this week!
Is that a compressor or jet!
Screw compressor?
yes rotary screw all in on! Dryer, Compressor, Storage tank.
Their 3/4" coil line is much much more of a challenge. You are snapping them together just like a Sharkbite fitting which anyone can do well. The coil line deforms enough and the 3/4 size is substantial enough that getting them to slide into the fittings (mine were metal) took a lot of force even with conduit lubricant! Using their tool (very different from yours) you have to ream them thoroughly or you will be out of round and not chamfered which will not allow the 'O' ring to slide into the pipe. Even doing that it was difficult to get enough grip to apply the sufficient pressure to seat the pipe into the compression fitting. Their fittings are extremely overpriced. You made the right choice on getting the straight pipe if you live where they can ship that length. I don't. Straightening is not that easy or fun with the coil line. The saving grace on the 1/2" system and drops is standard plastic push to fit fittings work quite well, not so with the 3/4 as far as I can find out at this time. Also normal pipe thread manifolds work with the system. Take care. Doug
Thanks for watching Doug. Yes I did not want to fuss with trying to make the pipe straight. So far it has worked out very well for me!
Thread tape and pipe dope? Why?
I think only because the instructions said to do it that way... have had zero issues.
as i get it on ebay or amazon, the aluminum tobos. Thank you..! why? I want a kit just like you bought it for my 3/4 or 1 "workshop.
I picked it up here: www.amazon.com/dp/B07F785WJ4/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_KQWATX6M41457YB7AJCJ