I have used cherry and maple with good results. Pine should be ok, you might want to make the spring strips 5/16 or 3/8" thick rather than 1/4 to increase the pressure of the springs. Pine will be more flexible than hardwoods so a bit of extra material should make up for it.
Those are not gaps, they are patented "Glue Wells". The lock miter joint is so tight that glue has no way to easily squeeze out, and excess glue can hold the joint open when you are trying to clamp it. The glue wells allow room for a little excess without holding the joint open.
@@Microjig Well Ralph, it's sure you are not on the design team at Microjig. I have nearly all their products and they are great. This vid is a turn off. I can clearly see the locking in a dovetail joint, where exactly is the locking in this glue surface increasing joint with gaps?
@@squareswing Have you ever made a lock miter joint? I used to make them daily working in a high end stair company. The lock miter joint has lots of surface for glue, but very little chance for any excess glue to squeeze out, especially on long joints like a newel post or column wrap. The glue wells do not increase glue area, they give excess glue a place to go so it does not hold the joint open as you try to clamp it. It works. I invite you to try the bit out and if it is not everything you want it to be we'll buy it back no questions asked. You can reach me directly at ralph@microjig.com. My title is Product Development Manager :)
Thanks! I really appreciate your products and your support of your products. All the best
Our Pleasure!
Awesome. Thanks. 👍🏾
I'm curious what material people use for that jig. I'm planning using pine, would that be a good choice?
I have used cherry and maple with good results.
Pine should be ok, you might want to make the spring strips 5/16 or 3/8" thick rather than 1/4 to increase the pressure of the springs. Pine will be more flexible than hardwoods so a bit of extra material should make up for it.
I do not see a link for the pressure jig plan and after three attempts of searching on the website, I failed to find it
assets-global.website-files.com/5cfd83cf1c26ab7392063e1f/5d7fe27c61e4d747fcec9c57_r-Table-Pressure-Jig-Plans.pdf
assets-global.website-files.com/5cfd83cf1c26ab7392063e1f/5d7fe27c61e4d747fcec9c57_r-Table-Pressure-Jig-Plans.pdf
The Pressure Jig Plan, and many others, are on the Plans page of our website: www.microjig.com/projects
Got some ugly gaps there boss!
Those are not gaps, they are patented "Glue Wells". The lock miter joint is so tight that glue has no way to easily squeeze out, and excess glue can hold the joint open when you are trying to clamp it.
The glue wells allow room for a little excess without holding the joint open.
@@Microjig BS, Yes, gaps, no, not a tight joint. Your corners are all barn door open. Funny response!
@@squareswing well, you do you. Thousands of users are very happy with their FitFinder Lock Miter Bits.
@@Microjig Well Ralph, it's sure you are not on the design team at Microjig. I have nearly all their products and they are great. This vid is a turn off. I can clearly see the locking in a dovetail joint, where exactly is the locking in this glue surface increasing joint with gaps?
@@squareswing Have you ever made a lock miter joint? I used to make them daily working in a high end stair company. The lock miter joint has lots of surface for glue, but very little chance for any excess glue to squeeze out, especially on long joints like a newel post or column wrap. The glue wells do not increase glue area, they give excess glue a place to go so it does not hold the joint open as you try to clamp it. It works.
I invite you to try the bit out and if it is not everything you want it to be we'll buy it back no questions asked. You can reach me directly at ralph@microjig.com. My title is Product Development Manager :)