As an engine builder myself, should never use sandpaper on the stem, this removes material causing balve to guide oil clearance to increase which can cause immature wear of the guide as well as the valve
@@connorray9801 Well given that he's simply polishing the surface and not removing any substantial amount of material, don't you believe that simply grinding new valve seats and installing a new set of valve stem seals would be sufficient for proper operation? I mean you should already be doing all that when rebuilding a cylinder head after all.
@@syrthdr09sybr34 You have to realise that everything in engine is being measured in hundreds fractions of a millimeter and that right there is more than substantial amount of material removed.
For those that don't know... There should actually be a degree of roughness on the valve stem/ face to help atomize fuel... DON'T polish the valves like this guy does. Also if you chuck your valve into a drill / drill press, you should have a piece of rubber tubing in between.
Glass media blasting a valve has fundamentally changed its geometry. The reason valve work is expensive is because it should be done precisely using machines and the correct tools. I know it looks shiny and you've improved somewhat boundary layer resistance, but what you've created are incredibly minute changes to the diameter up and down the valve stem, and probably reduced the diameter of the valve head somewhat. These things are a minute and 100% factual science now bro. There isn't any subjectivity anymore. We have run millions of engines millions of cycles in every application under the sun, most of the people who said you did a bad job are unfortunately correct. Some research into what valves are and why they are important would have gone a very long way here. Whether you lap the valves afterwards or not, you've messed with the valve geometry on a scale you don't consider important, and thats fine. But the scale is important and all these guys in the comments telling you that have a point. What you did will severely reduce the life of your valves. Just an FYI when they make valves from scratch they balance test them, test for roundness, check tolerances and sizings to the thousandth of an inch, and ensure they all weigh exactly the same, and most importantly, your stem guide clearance should not be anything but the most accurate it can possibly be. Sanding the stem of a valve is very very silly if you want your engine to run hard, fast or long periods, or indeed, all three.
Lets not forget that once you have spent hours and hours polishing your valves and assuming you had the fore thought to do a 3 or 4 point valve job to restore the seat angles and margins, corrected or was able to maintain the guide play with the stem, it will carbon up again shortly after a handful of engine cycles anyhow. This Tuber is completely inexperienced, uneducated in engine and cylinder head building/restoration. I could barely get through this video.
@@mm-il8dg it will do more good for you to run an in-tank cleaner. They sell bottles of these carbon removing agents everywhere these days. They work relatively well and are worth the money. Read some reviews and find a good one.
Pozdrav Milane :) Jeste, mali baš daje sve od sebe, zato mi se i dopada :) (kada ga uporedimo sa njegovim vršnjacima dečko je genije ...) I baš mu želim da uspe u životu.
First never do this. Two polishing affects nothing. Shape of the valve improves performance. Feel bad for anyone who does this. The ignorance in this video is shocking.
He's installing a catch can. The reduction in sludgy deposits will be realized immedietly just from that. Now that the valves and ports are a high polish, the walnut blasting will be much more effective.
A highly polished back surface inhibits carbon deposits and improves flow over the valve. A highly polished face (inside the combustion chamber) reflects radiated heat from the flame and helps keep it a shade cooler (more important with exhaust valves). Read A Graham Bell
LuchoPortugayo obviously he has never heard of specs and clearances and has never seen valve grind and a suction cup and how it’s done old school and properly😂😂😂😂
RUclips wouldn't have any videos if they took down all of the bad information on it. If you don't see any micrometers and bore gauges being used, they are probably back yard hacks.
@@TurboVisBits what are you gonna replace it with. He did it by hand. All the clearances are different now. He’d have to get custom valve guides for each valve.
Why on earth should you polish the engine valves?! all you need is to remove the built-up carbon... Also, sanding the valves might cause improper seal when you get a spot sanded more than the others!
If you aren't using a drill or some way to keep the valve spinning, yes I could see the flat spot argument, however with it mounted in the drill, it gives a very uniform result
Professional machine shops will only walnut shell or soda blast valves. The point is to remove all deposits but not remove any metal from the stem and face. You have changed the shape of the valve by sanding it.
Jarrett Barnett yea i think you're right cuz by sanding the valve stem,it makes it thinner & will make the valve loose when installed right?i would do everything from this video,except polish/sand down the stem.
Jarrett Barnett im thinkin valve stem seals are rendered useless now that the stem is reduced...well but that depends how far up into the stem he sanded too. The valve face/machined angled cut is now rounded off im sure. It does look nice n clean though.
Do you fucking know that by far he take out microns? it will not affect anything and lapping seats and valve will seal it properly again. Also is true that many did not noticed any difference in polishing but many experts said that is good for less carbon to stick to the walls. I guarantee that if you take apart those valves after 5k they will be brown, stock will be black again! Also depends of the carburation and flow. This jobs are recommended only to who want spend time, if you go to any shop they will Never do it, the labour will be too expensive.
Bobby King many machine shops will do this intensive and meticulous labor...however they do rematch the valve angles to the seat on the head otherwise these machine shops could not offer warranty on workmanship and proper operation of the head. This super important when an engine has force induction. Top dollar like you said but no machine shop will rebuild cyl. Head without matching the cuts to the seats. Agreed minimal-none carbon will stick depending on octane levels.
Bobby King The issue is not polishing the face or the back side. That part doesn’t matter as the machine shop will cut the valve seat correctly. The issue is polishing the stem. The valve stem is pressed into a machined bushing and has very tight tolerances. If you take metal away the stem can now move side to side as well as up and down. Also, please find an English language book ASAP.
Yeah, that was the only part that I took issue with. You can re-grind the valve seats so polishing there doesnt matter. I wouldve just left it at scotchbright-ing away the carbon and call it a day
Thanks for the tip , after I polished the valves using your method I figured why stop there? So I sandblasted, sanded, and polished the inside of my whole exhaust system, headers and all. I burnt up 4 dewalt drills in the process. It’s a good thing I don’t have any compression because it looks so fast and air doesn’t want to stick to it. Haha I can’t even pretend to not know as much as you. Thanks for the customers too bad they can’t sue you for bad advice.
Dude - I'm sorry but you need to stop doing this. Cleaning off the carbon with scott-brite is fine, but sanding it is a bad idea - period. Secondly most valves are 2 different steels - and you can see the join above the head. Most valve heads are stellite - a type of steel. Removing coating is also a bad idea. You seem to be under this pretence that shiny = more power/better performance. As long as the big chunks of carbon are gone the valve will be fine. End quote - @dirtygarageguy
Hey Milan, been a sub for ages now. I like the fact you're cleaning it despite the fact it'll get dirty. However, I'm concerned they won't seal as well as they used to because you are removing media around. That's what sanding and polishing does after all. You've also removed material from the mating surfaces too. Remember these parts do come with tolerance when manufactured. I wish you all the best and still love watching you. You show you have a passion for what you do and I'm sure nobody's opinion online will change that. Keep going. If you want a cheap Bentley, speak to hoovies LOL
Ellie Basic do not listen to him. The scotchbrite still is not a good idea. It still scratches the metal. Even if it says nonscratch. Professionals use untrasonic cleaners to remove dirt and carbon without stripping a single piece of metal. That’s the whole purpose
@@Sci-Mon1 professionals do use ultra sonic cleaners but scotchbrite scratches are negligible on valves for non professionals, I've done it so many times without any problems and built many cylinder heads so stop spreading disinformation if you don't know what you're talking about.
BMWm6e63 hey dumbass. It’s not disinformation. It is still risky and although you have not caused damage, doesn’t mean someone else can’t. That’s like saying you’ve never killed anyone driving drunk, so the next person is all clear to drive drunk. 🤦🏼♀️
@@Sci-Mon1 what's the risk, You might shave off 10thou? It's a scotchbrite you dickhead not a grinding wheel. Some people need to lay off the Internet sometimes because they take it for 100% fact.
Love your Chanel your actually my only subscription... reason I’m doing the exact same project . 2009 jcw same problems that your having . I did a diy polish on the head runners . Got WAY STREET CAMS . And upgraded turbo cartridge . Didn’t want big turbo .... r56 get a little volatile in my opinion. My name is Mark and I’m a full time heavy equipment mechanic just fell in love with driving minis and appreciate your videos
If I may recommend, use scotch Brite to remove the carbon and 3k grit paper to polish. The more you sand and polish on the stim, the more clearance you create in the valve guide, which might be bad.
I did the head gssket on my car. Having sent this video I stripped the head. Skimmed and hot washed Polished up all the valves and lapped them in. The head looked amazing. As you say its timely but very effective technique
apparently You seem to be under this pretence that shiny = more power/better performance. As long as the big chunks of carbon are gone the valve will be fine.
this type of refurbishing is damn good to convert working engine in to home furniture, will look really awesome, don't forget to buy ticket for public transport!
dude read a book or take an engine machine shop class before "teaching" others. The grain structures of the valve and seat are ground together and lapped so they will in essence fuse and make a complete seal For a split second during combustion. Second that valve has a cam on it the rotators are moving it so that same grain structure won't over heat in spots that'll lead to a blow out of valve. Look up a video of ringing in a gage block. Same concept. Powertrains are the most temperamental aspect of any type of mechanical unit, and it's a science. I'm not trying to sound like a pompous ass but dude keep the scene " oh bro it's so clean fam" shit on the side or else you're gonna be junking a project you dump thousands into. Also ~ learn something new every day~
Same here. Also im just a little worry with the end he tighten the drill chuck too. Drill chucks sometimes have teeth to grab. I don't know if his has them. Im just afraid if it does. That the "teeth marks" would damage a valve seal
And nobody has said anything about him sanding the valve stem🙄 i machine heads for a living. You don't want to polish the intake valves on a port injected or carbed engine. But yes polish the exhaust valve's that's good. It helps reflect some heat away from the valve and valve guide😏😉
I would do this on a display piece or a car parts art piece. Not for functional use. This is about as useful as polishing the inside of your differential cover.
i'll tell you what, valve manufacturers do not want to let that secret out of the bag. that's a complete valve restoral to new like dimensions. this guy in the video knows what he's talking about. i would even do this to brand new valves, sorta like breaking them in before you run it. the valve face has got to be "universal" after this treatment. if you have another motor of some kind you could always use them after the short life your valve job didn't last. just re-polish them and put em in.
I use ChemDip to soak the valves first. This loosens up most of the carbon and makes it easy to just wipe off. If you don't have a media blaster like in the video, I'd recommend doing this first before sanding the valves.
It is a bigger waste of time than cleaning the inside of the exhaust. You aren't ruining the exhaust bu cleaning it. Doing this to your valves is doing permanent damage.
Idk man, this engine builder I bought an intake from said you can add up to 20 hp if you polish them that well. I'm going be careful on the seat contact area though that could make for a lot of valve lapping or a trip to the machine shop
Cool, if you're gonna use the valves in your living room or somewhere to admire them. In an engine you should give the head to a shop to relap the seats and relap your already screwed valves... Then compression test the cylinder chambers.
Also, I can't see that this would hurt as long as polishing does not occur on the stem. I would be worried about the oil clearances on the part that enters the guide. But as long as its just the head, that is fine. You can get a performance benefit because polishing will help keep carbon from sticking to the valves. The same can be done to the combustion chambers and ports. Great video.
Best method to make the shiniest and smoothest paperweights. Can be used to crush nuts, draw a circle outline, a keychain,Christmas ornament, or bookmark.
The chuck could damage the valve stem. Sanding the valve stem where its in the guide will make it loose.. Sanding the valve sealing face will require it to be lapped.
Reminds me of a time I was at a swap meet. 3 Mexicans were selling metal polish and doing demonstrations on the bottom of aluminum pop cans. As I'm standing there, an old guy walks up with his buddy. He picks up a can, inspects it, shows his buddy, who nods with approval. He looks at the 3 Mexicans and says, " You boys are doing a fine job, keep up the good work!" Throws down a dollar and cracks open a Coke as he hands one to his buddy and they turn and walk away. All 3 of the Mexicans stopped polishing their pop cans and stood there with sad looks on their faces. I couldn't stop laughing!!!! It made my weekend!
ULB SRY I hope for your sake they soda blasted and not sand,glass or walnut because its almost impossible to get all the media out of a head or engine block. Lots of people destroy their motors doing this and is not recommended to media blast by reputable builders. Its your engine but imo its not worth the risk when they can clean it just as good with a sonic cleaning or nice parts washer. Best of luck as any engine failure sucks
ULB SRY if they have a good reputation then no reason to worry as if they do it the wrong way they wouldn't have a good reputation. Just my 2 cents and something to consider. What are you building?
Hachi-Roku Performance Group my dads know the machine shop for 30+ years. They’ve been in business for 50+ I believe. I’m building a single turbo 6.0 LS motor. The owner is the one who is doing my heads for me. I think he bead blasted them. Then gave them back to me apart and I cleaned up the chambers. I’m giving them back and he’s doing a 3 angle valve job and milking them enough to just clean them up.then cleaning them and Installing my new btr .660 spring kit and the trunion upgrade for my rockers. I have an 83mm billet wheel BorgWarner for it.
I did this on a spare head laying around for shits an giggles and it works out quite nicely and after polishing I lapped the valves back into the seats and got a solid seal with oem margin (width of seal) and also when sanding I purposely put pressure on the leading and trailing edge of the margin to create a radius on the valve creating a poor mans 3 angle valve job.. Since this is with very fine grit sandpaper there is lil chance of doing anything but smoothing out the 2 angles on the margin and did not affect the sealing as the lapping of the valves came out perfectly I maybe spent 3 times the amount of time I normally do when lapping in valves because of this ... not only polished to reduce carbon build up but gained a lil flow as well ... granted I was willing to try this out as I had a spare head lying around but all in all this is not a wasted effort as I fully port and polish the heads when apart and repace guides and seals as well so Im not simply popping a head apart to polish the valves Im already in there doing other stuff and this procedure is saving me the money I would normally invest in a set of polished valves ... carbon build up is anti horsepower and doing everything to prevent it sames time and money ... 30 years ago when I used to race my camaro every winter I would tear entire engine apart to freshen it up for next year and remove carbon ( back then it was really an issue) for complete tear down rings and bearings and new oil pump and water pump etc,,, only cost $135 for everything so it wasn't that big a deal and occasionally you find something that if left unchecked might have cause a major issue
Great video! I can tell you put a lot of time and effort into the video, so thanks. Because you are spinning the valve on the drill, it will remain (for the most part) the same shape. Just make sure that when you reinstall the valves, you lap and grind them to fit the valve seat (something that you should be doing anyway). Remember, valves need to make a perfect seal with the seat in order to hold compression. The valves look great! Cheers!
milanmastracci you need to listen to these comments. Valve seating is the MOST important part of a valve job. If you don't have good valve seating, nothing else matters. Polishing these valves in not necessary, and can actually damage them, because they won't seat properly.
You definitely should have a good catch can setup for any direct injection motor if you don't want to see crap build up again. As a tip, you only need to clean/polish the part of the valve that sticks out of the guide. Do it then you'll have a loose valve that wants to kiss your pistons. Also don't ever touch the valve edges where it seals with the head because if you shave a lot of material it'll be hard to fix it with lapping only.
There's no way any polishing can cause valve-piston contact. The keepers hold the valve up top to the coil spring. The coil spring constantly pulls the valve upward away from the piston. There's no way for them to kiss.
I already clean 5 valves like this video until i read all the comments. Then I realized that the edge of the valves not as sharp as before. It is clean but it will not seat properly. All we need to do is just clean it using wire brush. Please bro, someone gonna destroy their valves by watching this.
Back in 2003 time frame I built a B-series Honda, this was long before RUclips. Even then I understood that you DO NOT touch the valve seat, if you do you will ruin the seal against the valve seat. You can use a drill to clean valves but, use masking tape on the valve stem to prevent metal to metal contact(chuck-valve stem) and DO NOT touch the angles cut into the valve. If you want pretty shiny valves that don’t seal, do what he did.
Firstly, clean the stem.... do NOT sand it. Creating a smoother surface “near” the seat, does create better air flow but there is absolutely no need to polish. Especially the underside of the valve. Watch Uncle Tony’s Garage” on how to work your valves. Also, listen to what he says about “Volume vs Velocity” .... the dude is a genius and can back up everything he says.
Anyone watching this video... Absolutely do not ever use sand paper on the stem! Do not let the sand blasting sand hit the stem either! Also do not polish the intake valve unless it is direct injected, if it is port EFI or carbed then a little roughness helps keep the fuel suspended in the air and sharp angles on the 3 (or more) valve angles also helps break up fuel droplets. Also you need the valve seat sealing surface machined flat after this or your asking for it to not seal and not transfer heat out through the seat while it is closed. You are rounding off the sealing surface so only a very tiny round seat will be sealing instead of a relatively wide flat sealing surface. If done properly it can actually help the ex valve run cooler by reducing the valves ability to take in heat thru a reduced surface area and reduce the chance of detonation originating from the hot valve and it also reduces carbon buildup in the future. It will also slightly increase ex flow but not enough to notice any power gain from this modification alone.
When you out the valve into the drill, put a piece of tubing over the end that goes into the drill so you don't screw up the metal on the valve when the drill clamps
No, don't sand the stem or even scotch bright it. Also tape the stem before you put it in the chuck otherwise if will possibly get damaged by the hardened teeth of the drill chuck. Any metal removal from the stem is bad and will cause oil consumption and shorten the life of the valve. Otherwise not to bad.
hope your making wind chimes of those valves, because that's all they are good for now. Don't worry, we all do dumb shit, that's part of learning. Vid production is good. Cheers
Even if you did regrind the valve seats (wich you have completely destroyed) and you didnt touch the valve stem, you still have to worry about how broad the valve seats become (regrinding always makes them a little wider) if that is out of spec it might either overheat your valves or not seal properly. Dont worry about that after touching the valve stems though , because by then you have just completely fucked up and are free to get new ones.
All these negative comments! He is learning - just lap them, slap engine together and lets hear the purr... even if he drives the engine for another 15 years, people will complain...
Oh my...you made me want to open up my engines and polishes everything in there! Haha. My hands are itching but, my dad might kill me for doing so. I stick yo polishing his tools instead. That is, for now.
The lapping of the valves is the most important thing to do, and that produces a dull matt finish where the valve sits, definitely doesn't need to be shiny and polished.
"It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives valiantly; who errs, who comes short again and again, because there is no effort without error and shortcoming; but who does actually strive to do the deeds; who knows great enthusiasms, the great devotions; who spends himself in a worthy cause; who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement, and who at the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat."
Brick cleaner works brilliantly on exhaust valves, soak for 10 mins and simply wipe the hard crusty stuff off, Oven Pride oven cleaner works brilliant on cleaning inlet valves, wont be polished shiny but they will be clean as per factory and ready for a quick lapping.
Hey yea ASE Certified Technician here. Yea those will never seat again plus you also changed the shape of the valve so you just polished some shiny paper weights. Plus you also damaged the valve stem by putting a drill driver on them....if your gonna clean your valves. Have a professional do it
I am not sure how schooled trained this young man is. But he just broke every rule of valve stem care. 1st using sand paper wet or dry will cause you to lose the proper seating on the stem causing the valve stem to not seal correctly. Polishing a valve stem removes the way it is supposed to atomize the fuel. Over all your valves will NOT close properly making your engine to run horrible.
As an engine builder myself, should never use sandpaper on the stem, this removes material causing balve to guide oil clearance to increase which can cause immature wear of the guide as well as the valve
Exactly
That's what i thought and I havnt clean mine at all yet it took my top end apart.
I use blue painter's tape on the clean (guide area) end of the stem, i was always worried about the drill chuck scratching the stem
What's "immature wear" lmao
@@clydewatson7889 I'd tape off the ends before putting into the chuck
Well my valves don't seat properly anymore, but hot damn they look good.
😂
Too much funny
exactly my thoughts
Scared of a little valve lapping?
Ahahahahaha yes more leaks then when they had build up but they do look pretty for something no one will ever see...
Guys calm down. This guy is certified youtube mechanic
Pacifik kiddoz amen
Bahahahaaaa 👍 RUclips mechanic, that's a hot one. RUclips the place where what you know doesn't count, just as long as it's an attention grabber.
This guys fucken nuts i coulda put the entire motor together before he finished just the intake side...
Yeah RUclips approved!
@@khalid95eG calm down
please take this down before people ruin their valves
Johnny Cash I was thinking the same thing, I just knew he was about to use a bench wire wheel
Just curious, how is this process damaging to valves? The surface loss by doing this is absolutely minimal.
@@syrthdr09sybr34 Because its in an engine, the tolerances for mistake is very low, slightly changing the angle and geometry will allow blow by
@@connorray9801 Well given that he's simply polishing the surface and not removing any substantial amount of material, don't you believe that simply grinding new valve seats and installing a new set of valve stem seals would be sufficient for proper operation? I mean you should already be doing all that when rebuilding a cylinder head after all.
@@syrthdr09sybr34 You have to realise that everything in engine is being measured in hundreds fractions of a millimeter and that right there is more than substantial amount of material removed.
Wow it looks so much better thanks, next I think i'll polish the inside of my gas tank
lmfao
Lol... get better fuel flow huh?
😂😂😂
please use a lighter so you can see what your doing man
Yes thats a good idea that will reflect the light from the lighter so you can see how much gas you have.
Don't forget when re-assembling the engine, to install the piston return spring.
And the exhaust bearings!
And blinker fluid
Also cut the exhaust to apply a exhaust clamp
LOL Ahhhhh
Wait those r real?
You seem to be under this pretence that shiny = more power/better performance. As long as the big chunks of carbon are gone the valve will be fine.
I took it to the next level and plastidipped my valves black..damn they look soo good!
For those that don't know... There should actually be a degree of roughness on the valve stem/ face to help atomize fuel... DON'T polish the valves like this guy does. Also if you chuck your valve into a drill / drill press, you should have a piece of rubber tubing in between.
or just use masking tape to nurture the stem. check first if your valve stems have special coatings!...you don't want to sand off any coating.
Absolutely RIGHT. Saw this video and Cringed!
I have seen many videos of people chucking there valves in the drill and not cover with something
Thanks for the tip!
Thanks Patrick, that makes more scense.....so where do you stop, at the purple scotch brite? What about cleaning the other end?
Im going to do the same process... and use those valves as key chains.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Cool decoration. Would never put this in my motor.
Actually, I might do that. Definitely not putting that garbage in an engine.
Now thats the best use for these valves he only screwed them up by polishing them.
Thats all they would be good for after doing this
Glass media blasting a valve has fundamentally changed its geometry. The reason valve work is expensive is because it should be done precisely using machines and the correct tools. I know it looks shiny and you've improved somewhat boundary layer resistance, but what you've created are incredibly minute changes to the diameter up and down the valve stem, and probably reduced the diameter of the valve head somewhat. These things are a minute and 100% factual science now bro. There isn't any subjectivity anymore. We have run millions of engines millions of cycles in every application under the sun, most of the people who said you did a bad job are unfortunately correct. Some research into what valves are and why they are important would have gone a very long way here.
Whether you lap the valves afterwards or not, you've messed with the valve geometry on a scale you don't consider important, and thats fine. But the scale is important and all these guys in the comments telling you that have a point. What you did will severely reduce the life of your valves.
Just an FYI when they make valves from scratch they balance test them, test for roundness, check tolerances and sizings to the thousandth of an inch, and ensure they all weigh exactly the same, and most importantly, your stem guide clearance should not be anything but the most accurate it can possibly be. Sanding the stem of a valve is very very silly if you want your engine to run hard, fast or long periods, or indeed, all three.
Lets not forget that once you have spent hours and hours polishing your valves and assuming you had the fore thought to do a 3 or 4 point valve job to restore the seat angles and margins, corrected or was able to maintain the guide play with the stem, it will carbon up again shortly after a handful of engine cycles anyhow. This Tuber is completely inexperienced, uneducated in engine and cylinder head building/restoration. I could barely get through this video.
this is very convincing comment , i have a gdi engine how can i clean the valves if its has carbon build up?
@@mm-il8dg it will do more good for you to run an in-tank cleaner. They sell bottles of these carbon removing agents everywhere these days. They work relatively well and are worth the money. Read some reviews and find a good one.
@@Kavster92 but in gdi engines the injectors doesn't clean the valve unfortunately 😔
@@Kavster92 on cars with _Direct Injection_ there is no fuel passing over the intake valves, if it did they wouldn’t have carbon build up.
Valve lapping is a must now after you sanded them valves. The valve must match the mating surface on the head to have the proper seal. Good luck.
Milan Stankovic AD FREE you beat me to it. Props
That is must anyway ;) Lets hope he didnt made much damage with sandblasting so he dont have to polish seats like 3 days LOL :)
Pozdrav Urose! Ovaj moj imenjak se trudi. Pratim njega vec par godina.
Pozdrav Milane :) Jeste, mali baš daje sve od sebe, zato mi se i dopada :) (kada ga uporedimo sa njegovim vršnjacima dečko je genije ...) I baš mu želim da uspe u životu.
Lapping should be done on a head job regardless.
First never do this. Two polishing affects nothing. Shape of the valve improves performance. Feel bad for anyone who does this. The ignorance in this video is shocking.
And the fact that he is grinding the stem too ..terrible
I'm glad I read this comment.
Valve seat will also be off
When you re lap the valve the edges will become rough anyway 😂😂😂😂😂
OK SO WHERES YOUR VIDEO CLOWN
Congrats, you removed the Black Nitride coating that protects the metal.
The valves didnt have nitride coating...
YES HE DID REMOVE IT. GOOGLE BLACK NITRIDE. IT MAKES THE VALVE LAST LONGER AND HARDER!!! FOR HIGH RPMS. LIKE BOAT ENGINES!!!!
all that truly matters is that the valve seats properly, that carbon will return within 5000km easily
Regardless with these valves or new valves, I will have to lap them into the seats to ensure a proper seal 👍
He's installing a catch can. The reduction in sludgy deposits will be realized immedietly just from that. Now that the valves and ports are a high polish, the walnut blasting will be much more effective.
He likes his cars to be super clean.
Polishing a valve decreases surface area for carbon to deposit on.
A highly polished back surface inhibits carbon deposits and improves flow over the valve. A highly polished face (inside the combustion chamber) reflects radiated heat from the flame and helps keep it a shade cooler (more important with exhaust valves). Read A Graham Bell
THIS VIDEO SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM RUclips SANDING THE VALVE STEM MAKE LOSE THE ADJUSTMENT BETWEEN THE STEM AND THE VALVE GUIDE
LuchoPortugayo obviously he has never heard of specs and clearances and has never seen valve grind and a suction cup and how it’s done old school and properly😂😂😂😂
RUclips wouldn't have any videos if they took down all of the bad information on it.
If you don't see any micrometers and bore gauges being used, they are probably back yard hacks.
If he buy a set of new valve. I confirm he will polish all of them to look shining.
@Dat Boii or you can just replace the valve guide.. like anyone who knows what they're talking about would do.
@@TurboVisBits what are you gonna replace it with. He did it by hand. All the clearances are different now. He’d have to get custom valve guides for each valve.
Why on earth should you polish the engine valves?! all you need is to remove the built-up carbon... Also, sanding the valves might cause improper seal when you get a spot sanded more than the others!
If you aren't using a drill or some way to keep the valve spinning, yes I could see the flat spot argument, however with it mounted in the drill, it gives a very uniform result
Right...
And that's where the lapping/grinding comes into play...so no problem with that.
you are absolutely correct. stupid video
people pay a lot of money for new valves that are polished ,, it reduces carbon build up by a shit ton
Thanks for makes us laugh and let me know when you car blows up 😂😂
Boys car blows up when a girl walk around that hahhahhh
😂
😂😂😂
In this episode:
HOW TO REMOVE MATERIAL FROM YOUR VALVES SO THAT THEY DONT SEAT OR SEAL PROPERLY
Professional machine shops will only walnut shell or soda blast valves. The point is to remove all deposits but not remove any metal from the stem and face. You have changed the shape of the valve by sanding it.
Jarrett Barnett yea i think you're right cuz by sanding the valve stem,it makes it thinner & will make the valve loose when installed right?i would do everything from this video,except polish/sand down the stem.
Jarrett Barnett im thinkin valve stem seals are rendered useless now that the stem is reduced...well but that depends how far up into the stem he sanded too. The valve face/machined angled cut is now rounded off im sure. It does look nice n clean though.
Do you fucking know that by far he take out microns? it will not affect anything and lapping seats and valve will seal it properly again. Also is true that many did not noticed any difference in polishing but many experts said that is good for less carbon to stick to the walls. I guarantee that if you take apart those valves after 5k they will be brown, stock will be black again! Also depends of the carburation and flow. This jobs are recommended only to who want spend time, if you go to any shop they will Never do it, the labour will be too expensive.
Bobby King many machine shops will do this intensive and meticulous labor...however they do rematch the valve angles to the seat on the head otherwise these machine shops could not offer warranty on workmanship and proper operation of the head. This super important when an engine has force induction. Top dollar like you said but no machine shop will rebuild cyl. Head without matching the cuts to the seats. Agreed minimal-none carbon will stick depending on octane levels.
Bobby King The issue is not polishing the face or the back side. That part doesn’t matter as the machine shop will cut the valve seat correctly. The issue is polishing the stem. The valve stem is pressed into a machined bushing and has very tight tolerances. If you take metal away the stem can now move side to side as well as up and down.
Also, please find an English language book ASAP.
really? wet sand the valve stem? you want your stem to guide clearance at like 0.006 too?
Yeah, that was the only part that I took issue with. You can re-grind the valve seats so polishing there doesnt matter. I wouldve just left it at scotchbright-ing away the carbon and call it a day
I think he wants to make them variable tolerance stems. Just think how the panties will drop when his boyfriend sees them valves.
I usually spray PAM cooking spray on the finished product for longevity.. great video man.
hahahaha
WTF, why dont you spray paint your valve's. They'll look awesome
Good idea, also put some holes in it to save weight.
Speedholes
Haha shit worked great came out just the way he shows in video!
and have a good supply of jb weld to fix those little imperfections too
Don’t forget the pistons you gotta paint it all or it won,t work.
Thanks for the tip , after I polished the valves using your method I figured why stop there? So I sandblasted, sanded, and polished the inside of my whole exhaust system, headers and all. I burnt up 4 dewalt drills in the process. It’s a good thing I don’t have any compression because it looks so fast and air doesn’t want to stick to it. Haha I can’t even pretend to not know as much as you. Thanks for the customers too bad they can’t sue you for bad advice.
Dude - I'm sorry but you need to stop doing this. Cleaning off the carbon with scott-brite is fine, but sanding it is a bad idea - period.
Secondly most valves are 2 different steels - and you can see the join above the head. Most valve heads are stellite - a type of steel.
Removing coating is also a bad idea.
You seem to be under this pretence that shiny = more power/better performance. As long as the big chunks of carbon are gone
the valve will be fine.
End quote - @dirtygarageguy
I never realized how many expert mechanics are on youtube
Hey Milan, been a sub for ages now. I like the fact you're cleaning it despite the fact it'll get dirty. However, I'm concerned they won't seal as well as they used to because you are removing media around. That's what sanding and polishing does after all. You've also removed material from the mating surfaces too.
Remember these parts do come with tolerance when manufactured.
I wish you all the best and still love watching you.
You show you have a passion for what you do and I'm sure nobody's opinion online will change that. Keep going.
If you want a cheap Bentley, speak to hoovies LOL
I just watched a guy sand blast a valve?!?!?!
That was the funniest thing ever
wow this is so much great. my car won't start but my valves are clean and shiny. thanks for setting my mind at ease.
Thumbs 👍 up for increasing stem/guide clearance. Completely unnecessary other than the scotchbright
@Ellie Basic yes scotchbrite is fine
Ellie Basic do not listen to him. The scotchbrite still is not a good idea. It still scratches the metal. Even if it says nonscratch. Professionals use untrasonic cleaners to remove dirt and carbon without stripping a single piece of metal. That’s the whole purpose
@@Sci-Mon1 professionals do use ultra sonic cleaners but scotchbrite scratches are negligible on valves for non professionals, I've done it so many times without any problems and built many cylinder heads so stop spreading disinformation if you don't know what you're talking about.
BMWm6e63 hey dumbass. It’s not disinformation. It is still risky and although you have not caused damage, doesn’t mean someone else can’t. That’s like saying you’ve never killed anyone driving drunk, so the next person is all clear to drive drunk. 🤦🏼♀️
@@Sci-Mon1 what's the risk, You might shave off 10thou? It's a scotchbrite you dickhead not a grinding wheel. Some people need to lay off the Internet sometimes because they take it for 100% fact.
Love your Chanel your actually my only subscription... reason I’m doing the exact same project . 2009 jcw same problems that your having . I did a diy polish on the head runners . Got WAY STREET CAMS . And upgraded turbo cartridge . Didn’t want big turbo .... r56 get a little volatile in my opinion. My name is Mark and I’m a full time heavy equipment mechanic just fell in love with driving minis and appreciate your videos
If I may recommend, use scotch Brite to remove the carbon and 3k grit paper to polish. The more you sand and polish on the stim, the more clearance you create in the valve guide, which might be bad.
I did the head gssket on my car. Having sent this video I stripped the head. Skimmed and hot washed Polished up all the valves and lapped them in. The head looked amazing. As you say its timely but very effective technique
You should wrap the valve stem in masking tape where it's gonna be touching the drill Chuck to avoid damaging it
apparently You seem to be under this pretence that shiny = more power/better performance. As long as the big chunks of carbon are gone the valve will be fine.
this type of refurbishing is damn good to convert working engine in to home furniture, will look really awesome, don't forget to buy ticket for public transport!
i thought this was an april fools episode but as it turns out it was uploaded on april 6th
dude read a book or take an engine machine shop class before "teaching" others. The grain structures of the valve and seat are ground together and lapped so they will in essence fuse and make a complete seal For a split second during combustion. Second that valve has a cam on it the rotators are moving it so that same grain structure won't over heat in spots that'll lead to a blow out of valve. Look up a video of ringing in a gage block. Same concept. Powertrains are the most temperamental aspect of any type of mechanical unit, and it's a science. I'm not trying to sound like a pompous ass but dude keep the scene " oh bro it's so clean fam" shit on the side or else you're gonna be junking a project you dump thousands into. Also ~ learn something new every day~
I find this so funny because this guy also tells us to spray paint our fucking brake disks! idk if this channel is a joke or not lmao.
At least learn something else about what not to do everyday lmao
I guess all the guys that lap their valves are killing their performance then by changing the grain structure?
Next video, polishing the valve seat. Hahaha
rude. more like guy badman.
Wow, this is going to save me some money. Looking to rebuild my 95 v6 vortec engine in my blazer. Glad I found this.
Please no
You should sand the camshafts and head surfaces next 😂
This guy's bright
Sharpest crayon in the box.
Would make a comment on here but well y’all done covered it all SOOOOOOOOOOO.
LOOK GREAT! Now toss them in the trash and go buy new ones with proper clearances.
You simply the BEST! With high grade and respect from Russia!!!
It's been a year since your comment. Did your car blow up using this procedure?
@@pattygq yeaaa! I was made 3 different motors to my friends,and clean all valves!!!
What about lapping the valves? Making sure they still seat well with the head.
Same here. Also im just a little worry with the end he tighten the drill chuck too. Drill chucks sometimes have teeth to grab. I don't know if his has them. Im just afraid if it does. That the "teeth marks" would damage a valve seal
The lapping part will have to be done when reinstalling everything back in the head
milanmastracci did any damage happen to the valve where you tighten the chuck to ?
Nope, none what so ever :)
And nobody has said anything about him sanding the valve stem🙄 i machine heads for a living. You don't want to polish the intake valves on a port injected or carbed engine. But yes polish the exhaust valve's that's good. It helps reflect some heat away from the valve and valve guide😏😉
Excellent tutorial video...the best I've seen 👍
I would do this on a display piece or a car parts art piece. Not for functional use. This is about as useful as polishing the inside of your differential cover.
i'll tell you what, valve manufacturers do not want to let that secret out of the bag. that's a complete valve restoral to new like dimensions. this guy in the video knows what he's talking about. i would even do this to brand new valves, sorta like breaking them in before you run it. the valve face has got to be "universal" after this treatment. if you have another motor of some kind you could always use them after the short life your valve job didn't last. just re-polish them and put em in.
Awesome attention to detail! A lot of people half ass things. I guarantee if you lap those valves it will seal perfectly. Great job!
I use ChemDip to soak the valves first. This loosens up most of the carbon and makes it easy to just wipe off. If you don't have a media blaster like in the video, I'd recommend doing this first before sanding the valves.
why would you do this? It is like cleaning inside of exhaust!
You mean I polished the insides of my muffler for nothing????
It is a bigger waste of time than cleaning the inside of the exhaust. You aren't ruining the exhaust bu cleaning it. Doing this to your valves is doing permanent damage.
@@skyboy1956 yes exactly 😆
Idk man, this engine builder I bought an intake from said you can add up to 20 hp if you polish them that well. I'm going be careful on the seat contact area though that could make for a lot of valve lapping or a trip to the machine shop
This is an April fool's gag right?
Cool, if you're gonna use the valves in your living room or somewhere to admire them. In an engine you should give the head to a shop to relap the seats and relap your already screwed valves... Then compression test the cylinder chambers.
Wow, WRECKED them (can't believe I watched this)
I never even watched it. Clicked on video, paused it, scrolled down to like ALL the comments about this guys major and utter failure
Also, I can't see that this would hurt as long as polishing does not occur on the stem. I would be worried about the oil clearances on the part that enters the guide. But as long as its just the head, that is fine. You can get a performance benefit because polishing will help keep carbon from sticking to the valves. The same can be done to the combustion chambers and ports. Great video.
Best method to make the shiniest and smoothest paperweights. Can be used to crush nuts, draw a circle outline, a keychain,Christmas ornament, or bookmark.
The chuck could damage the valve stem.
Sanding the valve stem where its in the guide will make it loose..
Sanding the valve sealing face will require it to be lapped.
Reminds me of a time I was at a swap meet. 3 Mexicans were selling metal polish and doing demonstrations on the bottom of aluminum pop cans. As I'm standing there, an old guy walks up with his buddy. He picks up a can, inspects it, shows his buddy, who nods with approval. He looks at the 3 Mexicans and says, " You boys are doing a fine job, keep up the good work!" Throws down a dollar and cracks open a Coke as he hands one to his buddy and they turn and walk away. All 3 of the Mexicans stopped polishing their pop cans and stood there with sad looks on their faces. I couldn't stop laughing!!!! It made my weekend!
Shouldn't attach a valve to the chuck of a drill let alone sanding it. That is about as smart as media blasting a cylinder head
Machine shop blasted my head... then doing a 3 angle valve job..
ULB SRY I hope for your sake they soda blasted and not sand,glass or walnut because its almost impossible to get all the media out of a head or engine block. Lots of people destroy their motors doing this and is not recommended to media blast by reputable builders. Its your engine but imo its not worth the risk when they can clean it just as good with a sonic cleaning or nice parts washer. Best of luck as any engine failure sucks
Hachi-Roku Performance Group don’t believe it was sand. Not to sure.
ULB SRY if they have a good reputation then no reason to worry as if they do it the wrong way they wouldn't have a good reputation. Just my 2 cents and something to consider. What are you building?
Hachi-Roku Performance Group my dads know the machine shop for 30+ years. They’ve been in business for 50+ I believe. I’m building a single turbo 6.0 LS motor. The owner is the one who is doing my heads for me. I think he bead blasted them. Then gave them back to me apart and I cleaned up the chambers. I’m giving them back and he’s doing a 3 angle valve job and milking them enough to just clean them up.then cleaning them and Installing my new btr .660 spring kit and the trunion upgrade for my rockers. I have an 83mm billet wheel BorgWarner for it.
Thank you for the drill/scotch tip. Will not be using sandpaper though.
The very second he started sanding I began laughing. I had no idea misshapen valves improved engine performance
I did this on a spare head laying around for shits an giggles and it works out quite nicely and after polishing I lapped the valves back into the seats and got a solid seal with oem margin (width of seal) and also when sanding I purposely put pressure on the leading and trailing edge of the margin to create a radius on the valve creating a poor mans 3 angle valve job.. Since this is with very fine grit sandpaper there is lil chance of doing anything but smoothing out the 2 angles on the margin and did not affect the sealing as the lapping of the valves came out perfectly I maybe spent 3 times the amount of time I normally do when lapping in valves because of this ...
not only polished to reduce carbon build up but gained a lil flow as well ... granted I was willing to try this out as I had a spare head lying around but all in all this is not a wasted effort as I fully port and polish the heads when apart and repace guides and seals as well so Im not simply popping a head apart to polish the valves Im already in there doing other stuff and this procedure is saving me the money I would normally invest in a set of polished valves ... carbon build up is anti horsepower and doing everything to prevent it sames time and money ... 30 years ago when I used to race my camaro every winter I would tear entire engine apart to freshen it up for next year and remove carbon ( back then it was really an issue) for complete tear down rings and bearings and new oil pump and water pump etc,,, only cost $135 for everything so it wasn't that big a deal and occasionally you find something that if left unchecked might have cause a major issue
Great video! I can tell you put a lot of time and effort into the video, so thanks. Because you are spinning the valve on the drill, it will remain (for the most part) the same shape. Just make sure that when you reinstall the valves, you lap and grind them to fit the valve seat (something that you should be doing anyway). Remember, valves need to make a perfect seal with the seat in order to hold compression. The valves look great! Cheers!
milanmastracci you need to listen to these comments. Valve seating is the MOST important part of a valve job. If you don't have good valve seating, nothing else matters. Polishing these valves in not necessary, and can actually damage them, because they won't seat properly.
You definitely should have a good catch can setup for any direct injection motor if you don't want to see crap build up again.
As a tip, you only need to clean/polish the part of the valve that sticks out of the guide. Do it then you'll have a loose valve that wants to kiss your pistons. Also don't ever touch the valve edges where it seals with the head because if you shave a lot of material it'll be hard to fix it with lapping only.
Oh I couldn't agree with you more!!
There's no way any polishing can cause valve-piston contact. The keepers hold the valve up top to the coil spring. The coil spring constantly pulls the valve upward away from the piston. There's no way for them to kiss.
true
I already clean 5 valves like this video until i read all the comments. Then I realized that the edge of the valves not as sharp as before. It is clean but it will not seat properly. All we need to do is just clean it using wire brush. Please bro, someone gonna destroy their valves by watching this.
This is wrong please nobody do this. None of your valves will ever seat properly again
Back in 2003 time frame I built a B-series Honda, this was long before RUclips. Even then I understood that you DO NOT touch the valve seat, if you do you will ruin the seal against the valve seat. You can use a drill to clean valves but, use masking tape on the valve stem to prevent metal to metal contact(chuck-valve stem) and DO NOT touch the angles cut into the valve. If you want pretty shiny valves that don’t seal, do what he did.
Great Idea but I’d recommend lapping the valves after otherwise the valves won’t seal.
Firstly, clean the stem.... do NOT sand it. Creating a smoother surface “near” the seat, does create better air flow but there is absolutely no need to polish. Especially the underside of the valve. Watch Uncle Tony’s Garage” on how to work your valves. Also, listen to what he says about “Volume vs Velocity” .... the dude is a genius and can back up everything he says.
abbrasive + valve= out of spec valve + leaking valve face / stem seals
Anyone watching this video... Absolutely do not ever use sand paper on the stem! Do not let the sand blasting sand hit the stem either! Also do not polish the intake valve unless it is direct injected, if it is port EFI or carbed then a little roughness helps keep the fuel suspended in the air and sharp angles on the 3 (or more) valve angles also helps break up fuel droplets. Also you need the valve seat sealing surface machined flat after this or your asking for it to not seal and not transfer heat out through the seat while it is closed. You are rounding off the sealing surface so only a very tiny round seat will be sealing instead of a relatively wide flat sealing surface. If done properly it can actually help the ex valve run cooler by reducing the valves ability to take in heat thru a reduced surface area and reduce the chance of detonation originating from the hot valve and it also reduces carbon buildup in the future. It will also slightly increase ex flow but not enough to notice any power gain from this modification alone.
Drill chuck scratches valve stem --> crack growth site in the metal ---> valve drops
Videos like this bring all the cool jokes together 😋
When you out the valve into the drill, put a piece of tubing over the end that goes into the drill so you don't screw up the metal on the valve when the drill clamps
Great point
Yes! Exactly. YOu will get valve slop if you do this. Just a few thou off the surface (which may also be sintered) will cause performance drop.
No, don't sand the stem or even scotch bright it. Also tape the stem before you put it in the chuck otherwise if will possibly get damaged by the hardened teeth of the drill chuck.
Any metal removal from the stem is bad and will cause oil consumption and shorten the life of the valve.
Otherwise not to bad.
hope your making wind chimes of those valves, because that's all they are good for now. Don't worry, we all do dumb shit, that's part of learning.
Vid production is good.
Cheers
What about the valve seats not matching up now?
Thats what joke is
Hope this kids dad has lots of money.
Important!! remember to lap the valves before you put it all back together as your valves won't seat properly.
Great vid and very true, one time my motorcycle wouldn’t start because of a
Valve problem.
RECIFE - Brazil here...
Even if you did regrind the valve seats (wich you have completely destroyed) and you didnt touch the valve stem, you still have to worry about how broad the valve seats become (regrinding always makes them a little wider) if that is out of spec it might either overheat your valves or not seal properly. Dont worry about that after touching the valve stems though , because by then you have just completely fucked up and are free to get new ones.
Almost a million view. I hope they are sticking to the scuffing pads only or there's gonna be a lot of headaches out there 😂
No man no no no no
LOL, he did it. just be glad it's not your car :D
Broken Motor Wagen NOT SOMETHING YOU’LL GET FROM A NORMAL MECHANIC SHOP!
@@lukereilly4963 and that's a good thing!
All these negative comments! He is learning - just lap them, slap engine together and lets hear the purr... even if he drives the engine for another 15 years, people will complain...
So you going to do this every few thousand km because it will look back like it was before by then
Oh my...you made me want to open up my engines and polishes everything in there! Haha. My hands are itching but, my dad might kill me for doing so. I stick yo polishing his tools instead. That is, for now.
next video .. asking why are my fuel trims so low . my does my O2 keep reading off .
Was going to make a comment, but the internet got it covered.
You missed April 1st by 4 days
The lapping of the valves is the most important thing to do, and that produces a dull matt finish where the valve sits, definitely doesn't need to be shiny and polished.
Definitely film the first start up, can't wait to see how she runs
Oh I plan on it :)
First measure the engine compression, tho.
this brings new meaning to port and polish lol
Your valves look great! Shame they are useless now
"It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives valiantly; who errs, who comes short again and again, because there is no effort without error and shortcoming; but who does actually strive to do the deeds; who knows great enthusiasms, the great devotions; who spends himself in a worthy cause; who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement, and who at the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat."
I watched this video and thought yes I'll do this on my tractor engine but after reading the comments below I think you should remove this video.
Brick cleaner works brilliantly on exhaust valves, soak for 10 mins and simply wipe the hard crusty stuff off, Oven Pride oven cleaner works brilliant on cleaning inlet valves, wont be polished shiny but they will be clean as per factory and ready for a quick lapping.
Hey yea ASE Certified Technician here. Yea those will never seat again plus you also changed the shape of the valve so you just polished some shiny paper weights. Plus you also damaged the valve stem by putting a drill driver on them....if your gonna clean your valves. Have a professional do it
I am not sure how schooled trained this young man is. But he just broke every rule of valve stem care. 1st using sand paper wet or dry will cause you to lose the proper seating on the stem causing the valve stem to not seal correctly. Polishing a valve stem removes the way it is supposed to atomize the fuel. Over all your valves will NOT close properly making your engine to run horrible.
Mine were so shiny, that the air flow over them sucked the guts out of my air filter....