Understanding Dynamic Range Settings
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- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
- How to maximize highlight detail in you images using Fujifilm X Series and GFX cameras.
Recorded with Fujifilm X-T3 camera and XF16-80f4 R OIS WR lens.
Lighting from Fotodiox SkyFiller Bi-color LED panels.
Brilliant !!! The penny dropped only now for me......never really understood what DR settings really did & now I know.....thanks
Same here ✋🏼
With the sensors being basically iso-invariant you could also simply underexpose 2 stops and fix the shadows and midtones in post. Which isn't much different from ETTR. It's convenient for the jpegs coming out of camera though especially with all the hdr competition from phone cameras nowadays.
Love my xt4 and xt20
Thank you
Excellent explanation. Thank you!
Perfect explanation! thanks a lot!!!
We're glad you enjoyed it!
please note - Using my old X-S1, the DR setting can be "tricked" a little to be applied to a lower ISO value. Example - If a programmed mode is set at ISO640 and DR400%, when shooting ONLY IN THAT PROGRAMMED MODE, ISO can be manually lowered to 400 while the DR setting doesn't change. I don't know if newer Fujifilm cameras work the same way.
Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.
our pleasure!
Thanks for doing this video. Do you have a video on using dynamic range preview?
So is there a reason to not just leave it on DR400% all the time? Obvisouly going ISO 100 or something would not take advantage of it, but I'm just curious if there is a reason why I shouldn't just leave the setting on 400% all the time. Thanks!
I'm also thinking of this. Did you end up finding out why?
I'm having dr problem with my XE-4. I feel like in bright and sunny conditions my camera(iso 100-200) is blowing highlights.
Idk what to do.. Should I just use more iso in daylight for more dr? and deal with more noise?
Higher iso retains more highlight detail and lower iso retains more shadow detail. If you plan on editing in software, shooting at a higher iso will give you more to work with in the highlights. Shooting at a lower iso in darker situations will do the same for the shadows. If you don't plan on editing, this still applies but I would er on the side of simply getting an image you like in-camera. I usually try to expose with aperture and shutter speed and leave my iso alone for the most part unless I need to move it.
thx i neva new this
Hello in the title there is a mistake "DYANmic" range instead of " DYNA.." That said thank you so much !!!
Good explanation!
Thank you for the nice video. But finally what's your advise?what about 200%? To keep 200% or 400%.pls suggest.
It depends on how much ISO gain noise you find acceptable =) Basically, when shooting at ISO 800 with DR 400%, the sensor captures at its native ISO of 200, and then applies gain to only certain pixels to boost the sensitivity up to ISO 800 (in the shadows; and less gain in the mid-tones, say ISO 400). This is because higher ISO is a gain boost on the digital signal, which the sensor applies on the signal before sending it to be processed: the signal is the raw file, and the processing produces the jpg =)
It's like "these pixels produced a high signal, so don't boost them, but these pixels produced very little signal, so boost them", whereas most other cameras would apply a boost (gain) across _every pixel_ to get higher ISOs.
I hope one day soon camera makers will be able to create good dynamic highlight range without clipping, like film
Thank you! Would dynamic range increasing influence Raw files as well or it is only validl for shooting Jpegs?
Same question 🥺
Why this vs just watching highlight warnings and increasing SS appropriately using M exposure? Seem like this method will be fine using an Auto Exposure (SS, Aperture, program etc)
So, essentially shoot in ISO 640?
Can you simulate DR400 in post production with the same effect or it is matter of using difrent ISO for higlights and shadows and merged together with camera procesor before compresion and it can't be reproduced in post?
You can simulate in post but you would have to underexpose first then bring back shadows in post. Camera is doing that same thing when dr400 is picked. It also effects the raw files
Do these DR settings also apply to the RAW file? Or do they only affect the JPEGs, leaving the base RAW file with the DR as captured?
They also affect raw files.
ruclips.net/video/HsuIApe6gvI/видео.html
I like the DR 200/400 settings when shooting video though for stills, I'd rather shoot raw, underexpose a little to prevent highlight clipping and bump the shadows in post.
This affects raw files as well, the dynamic range is added before it reaches the analog to digital converter
yeah it basically shoots at native ISO, then only applies gain to certain pixels, so you'll end up with a raw file that says it was shot at e.g. ISO 800, but really it's ISO 200 and then gain is applied on the midtones and shadows to end up at ISO 800
someone please explain Dynamic Range PriorIty???????
Very clear presentation as usual. But is it relevant to a raw shooter. I wish I could always know from the beginning, which menu changes will really affect my raw shooting. I do not deal with jpegs. Barb
oh it most certainly does affect raw files too. ruclips.net/video/HsuIApe6gvI/видео.html
This setting does effect raw photos
And DR "Auto" setting does what?
It would choose the DR for you depending on the ISO you use. I would recommend having it on. Like he said, most of people do want to see the highlight.
Auto goes as high as dr200 to protect highlights when needed but doesn’t go to dr400
Does this also mean that DR 200 and DR400 I can only use on semi-auto modes unless I keep the ISO on auto while shooting in Manual mode. Hope I framed the question right. In other words, since in manual mode I will /may keep at base ISO which might cripple the ability to enable the Dynamic Range setting getting activated? Is my understanding right?