My clutch stopped engaging 1 week after I had the transmission rebuilt. It ended up being the plastic bushings were worn out in the clutch pedal assembly. I thought for sure it was a bad rebuild. $30 and she’s back on the road
What I've learned with these hydraulic systems is an air bubble which you can never get out. What I've learned to do. From a Ford tech in early/late 90s is press pedal to floor. And side step foot to left. "Like drag racing @8000rpm" Yes it makes a racket. But it burps that damn bubble every time. Truck off of course.. And you will have a good solid pedal. Hope it helps people.
Just got this 99 f 250 super broke and the clutch pedal has way too much play at top .. Push it 6 inches before feeling the pressure plate and pedal is not in line with the brakes.. It sits higher 6 inches Works great but knees can’t take the exercise
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Is the rod too long? Or is there a stop missing ? I was thinking just shorten the rod .but it needs enough travel to engage the clutch...
@@doubleduty1703I,m not there so I have to make some assumptions usually it sounds like the rod came out of the cylinder master or the spring on the peddle is gone or broke or the master is not installed correctly
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Ok thanks I checked all that and compared to videos online for reference The rod is a bit loose in pocket of the cylinder I will check tomorrow if it goes in more than just sitting there . The spring is there, operational . Temporarily drilled small hole in the aluminum bracket to use chicken wire and small chain to act as stopper . That’s how I roll for now . Adjusted to the feeling of pressure plate as it’s dead air for about 5 inches. And level with brake pedal. My brother in law has my chiltons manual and I will check it when I can . Thanks for the reply , It helped a lot.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for all that you do to teach us! I like your style! I am loving your videos!
Good video and worth watching ! Keep the videos coming
Again a quick fix, glad you could help that guy! Then share with us!
Nice graffics!
My clutch stopped engaging 1 week after I had the transmission rebuilt. It ended up being the plastic bushings were worn out in the clutch pedal assembly. I thought for sure it was a bad rebuild. $30 and she’s back on the road
What I've learned with these hydraulic systems is an air bubble which you can never get out. What I've learned to do. From a Ford tech in early/late 90s is press pedal to floor. And side step foot to left. "Like drag racing @8000rpm" Yes it makes a racket. But it burps that damn bubble every time. Truck off of course.. And you will have a good solid pedal. Hope it helps people.
Pretty great solution, would love to see a video on how to vet the clutch pedal out of the truck.
Just got this 99 f 250 super broke and the clutch pedal has way too much play at top ..
Push it 6 inches before feeling the pressure plate and pedal is not in line with the brakes..
It sits higher 6 inches
Works great but knees can’t take the exercise
There is a huge problem here The clutch and brake should be very close in even ness
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD
Is the rod too long? Or is there a stop missing ? I was thinking just shorten the rod .but it needs enough travel to engage the clutch...
@@doubleduty1703I,m not there so I have to make some assumptions usually it sounds like the rod came out of the cylinder master or the spring on the peddle is gone or broke or the master is not installed correctly
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD
Ok thanks
I checked all that and compared to videos online for reference
The rod is a bit loose in pocket of the cylinder
I will check tomorrow if it goes in more than just sitting there .
The spring is there, operational .
Temporarily drilled small hole in the aluminum bracket to use chicken wire and small chain to act as stopper .
That’s how I roll for now .
Adjusted to the feeling of pressure plate as it’s dead air for about 5 inches.
And level with brake pedal.
My brother in law has my chiltons manual and I will check it when I can .
Thanks for the reply ,
It helped a lot.
Atta boy
The gaff and go usually lasts longer than the OEM replacement part.
just replace the plastic bushing every other oil change. Then the peg on the pedal won't wear out and get crooked, which causes the rod to slip off.
I drilled it out welded in a 1/2" stud used a lock nut a little lube and all is well.
I upgraded mine with a heim the same time I installed a LUK clutch
you da man!