Yokomo RD 2.0 Alignment Settings
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- Опубликовано: 21 ноя 2024
- Sharing my alignment settings for the Yokomo RD 2.0 RWD RC Drift car. This rc drift car is a great driving rc car right our of the box and with anything I love to add my own flavor and set my base chassis tune that I start with on any of my remote controlled drift cars. The alignment setting on an rc drift car are probably one of the most important factors when setting up a new car and probably one of the most confusing aspects for new people getting into the hobby. I hope these settings can help some of you guys, it’s just kind of how I go about doing this and not the only way to go about it. I find that this is a great place to start and then fine tune from there depending on chassis weight and how you set up your rear comber progression. I will list me setting below for anyone who want to use them.
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RD2.0 Alignment Settings
Front
Camber -9 degrees
Toe +2 degrees on each wheel
Caster 6-7 degrees
Rear
Camber -3 degrees
Toe In -2 degrees
You rock man. Im going to watch this on my lunch... I might try and implement my real drift cars setting but swap rear and fronts settings, not sure if people have done this but it seems logical.
This is a very similar setup as to what I ran on my real drift car. Toe in on the rear, toe out on the front. Pro drift cars run so much rear toe that their tires scrub driving through the pits but under compression it flattens out the tire and creates a lot of mechanical grip.
Speaking of pros, FD is in a few days. They discarded all judging and run from previous season and "supposedly" all about tandems this year. Going to be an exciting season.
Yea I’ve followed pretty religiously for the past 15 years, was even on my way to a pro am license. Past couple years were so lame and the stream has been declining, it was not a sustainable format so hopefully this will provide some positive change for the sport.
What a great Video!! Thanks a lot for this deep-dive into RC adjustments.
This alignment-tool not only aligns, but also helps a lot in understanding how geometry changes depending how the car leans and twists. Awesome!!
Glad you liked it, thanks for watching! 🤙
It says in the instructions coating the diff gasket with black grease will help provide a better seal
ah good thing to point out, might give that a go.
On that 10BL120 esc try punch level 1 and the timing setting at full power, then set your th expo to -100 curve. That way as slow and smooth as possible on the lower portion of the throttle and a turbo like feeling on the vert last portion of the throttle. Dont give up on the bughett friendly 10BL120 lol ❤
I’ll definitely give that a shot as I put it in another car, it’s not bad it’s just in comparison to my rad or xd10.
@@shredcraftrc Yeah haha, that it is! Also, if you are running like a 84T spur try bumping it up to a 90T for more traction at the lower part of the throttle and more "ramp up" effect.
On your type of surface I would most likely be running 16T/90T on a yokomo style trans. Come to think of it perhaps YZ metal gears in the diff with only a light film of bearing oil on them, no o-rings and a 0.2mm shim between each drive cup and the diff case and enjoy all of the grip city lol 😊
@@bakko9302 For me the gearing feels fine and the car has a lot of grip and since I have nice electronics I prefer to use those over the 10bl it just doesn't feel as nice as far as resolution and its what i prefer. Perhaps if this was my only esc I would play with gearing but these cars dont need it imo, fdr of 9-10 is the sweet spot for our track and I have played with pinions but find 9ish is my jam and mechanical grip is always preferred over gearing for me, everyone likes a different feel.
@@shredcraftrc Yes, but it was with spesificly with the 10BL120 in mind I suggested the gearing to bring that lacking resolution you mention up ✌️
excellent.
🤙
Wanna get back into drifting, should i get this or RDX
Just depends, I love my rdx but I have a lot more seat time with it and I think it drives better out of the box but the rd2.0 is a great value for the money.
Depends. If you want to just drive without diving into tuning go with RDX - you can't mess this up. With RD, since you have turnbuckles from the beginning, you need to be precise with building it but in the long run you get already a very good chassis that you can set up to your needs without having to buy any additional stuff. Plus RD2.0 is cheaper than RDX so that extra money can go to better electronics. Personally I own RD2.0 (previously owned RD1.0) and I'm running it in stock alignment on polished concrete and local version of P-Tile and I have no issues keeping up with RDXs, Sharks or anything that goes slides on our track.
Just finished putting my rd2.0 together. How did you install the motor fan?
I used a yokomo fan mount, mounts to the motor plate.
Hi, What pinion gear are you using? I know I should get a gear set/kit but I want to know an average size.
I found the stock 24 to be too much for our track so I’m running a 19t currently
I think i need to buy an alignment rack
Definitely worth it if you’re constantly changing alignment 🤙
🤙😎
🤙🤙🤙
how many mm spacers do you use on the steering rack ball ends?
Like from the tie rods to the bellcrank? It’s the stock spacer.
where did you get this alignment rack?
From my local track.
@@shredcraftrc i found it, it’s a yeah racing alignment rack if anyone is curious