Bleaching & Printing FP-100C Negatives | NEGATIVES FROM INSTANT FILM

- - Liaison of Independent Filmmakers of Toronto (LIFT) - - -
lift.ca
- - Checkout the Cassette Nest App! - - -
cassettenest.com/
- - For New Analog Content Every Week - - -
SUBSCRIBE & HIT THE BELL 🔔 ➡️ www.youtube.co...
- - SUPPORT ANALOG RESURGENCE - - -
/ analogresurgence
Merch is HERE: www.zazzle.ca/...
- - Super 8 & 16mm Camera, Film & Services Available at Pro8mm - - -
www.pro8mm.com?sca_ref=207073.rkNff54PoN
- - Get Yourself Some Dang Polaroids - - -
polaroid.prf.h...
------------------------
SOCIAL MEDIA STUFF
/ noahender2000
/ analogresurge
------------------------
You can send me stuff for the videos! (Packages ONLY, Letter-mail not accepted)
Noah Henderson
PO BOX 99900 YG 434 149
RPO ELLERBECK
TORONTO, ON
M4K 0A2

[@JamieMPhoto]

Ohh, darkroom prints with those. 👀👀

[@TheUoduck23]

Hey Noah, loved the video. I’d just like to add that I’ve been able to recover my FP3000B negatives using the same process. When the black backing is removed it isn’t transparent enough to make silver gelatin print but with a DSLR scanning rig over a light table, enough light passes through to get a workable scan. I’m happy to share an example if anyone is interested.

[@petepictures]

Yea, I enjoy those negs more than the positives. If you want better negatives you need to underexpose the film 1-1,5 stops, and keep the negatives away from light , while them drying. There's no other colour film like the FP 100C , getting nice positive ad a great negative with one shot.

[@Lets-Take-Pictures]

Great stuff! I’ve done this a few times but I think I used regular liquid bleach and got patchier results (mostly areas where the black backing didn’t come off). That was like 12 years ago when there was less information available online, especially good clear video tutorials like this one. I still have a lot of my unreclaimed FP-100C negatives that were just waiting until I found a more consistent method to process. I’ll have to give it a try!
Thanks for making the video!
-Chris

[@Lets-Take-Pictures]

Oh, one other thought… just the usual heads-up to be careful about the pod of developer goo when tearing it off from the negative, even if it’s dried up, since it’s strongly alkali. I’m sure you know that, probably everybody who still uses FP knows that, but just in case anybody watching didn’t know… safety first!

[@timhutchinson8485]

The letter P is rapidly losing all meaning.

[@ZommBleed]

That's preposterous!

[@tonygraham6140]

Ok, good very informative video. I'll have to dry doing that again sometime in the future.

[@gary344]

Noah, fun episode, thanks. If you can find one the Rollei A110 was a great little camera. Cheers 🕊

[@areallyrealisticguyd4333]

if your negatives come out with funky colors just convert them to black and white and they might come out a bit better after some editing

[@d.stamand]

I miss my 80's Beseler 45 MXT so bad, please I want to go back time.

[@toothyweasel2705]

Still miss this film so much :(

[@PrimeStudios]

Very Cool! Always wanted to try this!

[@alfredoguri]

I save the negative everytime i take a fp picture. I recomend Cleaning the negative first (the green goo) and then when its wet, tape it in to the glass, makes it very good seal, and its easier to see when its clean (of the black goo). And be very carefull with the gloves, the minimun amount of bleach on them can create stains on the negative, bleach removes layer by layer the emulsion. -
Love FP 100c , keep shooting :)

[@Grasyl]

Very interesting .. thanks for sharing with us.

[@entity9742]

Hey Noah just a headsup if you want a transparency film you could try splicing a color integral positive with a color peel apart film
Im going to be working with a few 108 and 669 packs for use with the transparency film

[@iNerdier]

Okay so I do this quite a lot; here are my suggestions if anyone wants to try.
Wash your negatives first in water for an hour or so. Makes getting the paper and residual developer easier to get off. Don’t leave it overnight or you may have the emulsion soften so much it will get fragile and come off.
The best results are if you wash them before the developer has fully dried after you take the shot.
Vinyl electrical tape works much better than masking tape for the edges and makes a little pool for the bleach to stay in.
Bleach is all sodium hypochlorite, thin stuff is fine and cheap. You need quite a lot of it for each negative, if in doubt add a bit more.
An old paintbrush works well for gently rubbing the carbon off the black and means you don’t need gloves quite so much.
When scanning it’s really important not to have flecks of the backing still in your shot or the auto calibration of a flatbed will get really confused and your histogram will crush up on one side. Similarly if you have any holes in the emulsion. Equally, crop out any black parts at the edges in the scans where you can.
It even works printing in colour in the darkroom, but does look pretty funky usually.

[@QARIB_JEWELRY]

😂
0:24
a lots of P in this moment😂😂

[@wullieg7269]

i used to make that seemed funny pros throwing negs away

[@Penuuumbra]

Is there something similar that can be done for integral film?

[@MetalDEmpire]

Pentax Auto 110

[@leojphillips]

coooool

[@SinaFarhat]

Nice! :)