Every episode is just great. The meticulous construction, detailed explanations, superb camera work and well paced presentation make these a joy to watch. Look at how he even takes care to line up the screw head slots….love it!
Decades ago I was working with a carpenter who took great pains with a joint that would never be seen. I asked him why. He said, "I'll know it's there." I've followed his lead and am pleased that you do the same.
Watching Steve and Arabella over the years, there's been a series of "it's looking like a boat now" moments. When the keel timbers were stood up, "it's looking like a boat now". When the planking was done, then the decking. More recently when the tent came down and you could see the hull, the deck, and the house top together, it's really looking like a boat now. I had the same feeling when the transom and stern post went into the mold, "it's looking like a boat now". Thanks for taking the extra moment to line up all the screws, the little details really all make a difference!
Glad you decided to remake the post from "original" wood! But I'm amazed at how strong the ash wood is! Nice how the holes in the transom disappear! Screw head alignment is art! Check ! 😁 Thank you so much for your work! Greetings
I'm not sure which craft will be more beautiful. Steve and the gang are doing an amazing job with Arabella and you are certainly following your motto of making it beautiful. One thing that I am certain of is that together they will be stunning!
I find myself waiting for a new episode as I have gone through all of your dingy build for Arrabella and the Haven. I have watched the former mostly on the YMCA tread mill and I must say I get mesmerized by your poise, descriptions, work methods and results so much so that before I know it my work out session is over. One can see it is a love/passion of yours.
This may end up being the most "well used"...and loved, piece of art you have created. The stories it will tell in the 30 years. Yes, make it beautiful or as dad taught me, make it look like something you made instead of something you found. What a labor of love.
My gosh! It IS beautiful. Your workmanship is a pleasure to watch. Reminds me of my grandfather. He was a Master Cabinetmaker and all round carpenter. I apprenticed under him for one year at age 15. That was in 1955. I still miss him.
Thanks Rex, you’re a lucky one to have that experience with your grandfather. I too had a grandfather with incredible skills. I loved to sit in his shop watching him work. I was 11 when he passed in 1965. I wished I’d been older like you to be taught more. Great memories! Thanks so much for sharing and the high compliment. Cheers, Bob
💙 I have been concerned whether you would finish in time. So much so, that I've not let myself watch much. Today, 🙉 I realized, when I saw that tiny knee, that I've been living with Arabella's size work, and the length of time Steve has been working. So . . . Enjoy! 💙
I'm really enjoying this series... Your dedication to using the reclaimed wood from Victoria is commendable! However, I'm assuming it has doubled the construction time involved... I hope folks appreciate that fact. Additionally, you building a boat this size condenses the lessons to be learned... I find that helpful as some of the larger, longer projects are kind of overwhelming to watch. Great work my friend!!
So many questions! What are the characteristics of tamarack which make is so good for knees? I live in Australia, where it is not available. Why use a Forstner bit rather than a spade bit? I love the name of your varnish. Again, not available here. Cheers, David.
Tamarack is considered a soft wood that is highly rot and insect resistant. Tamarack grows in bogs so it naturally create right angle bends which makes it perfect for boat building knees. Tamarack is similar to Larch. Quarlow gave the reason for a Forstner bit. Thanks for you question! Bob
Nice Job Bob, bulkheads have come along well. Can't wait to see how this boat going to look after she's got a few planks on her frames. Should look good.
Bob, I found myself grinning ear to ear as I watch you meticulously align all the permanent screw slots in the same vertical orientation; if you're going to build it... So you know, what you (and Steve) are doing is much more than building boats and publishing content. You're also helping a lot of us, well me in particular, get through some rough situations. Back during the quarantine, I first found A2A and you when you helped on his project. Since then, for me, there's been two major surgeries, covid twice, pneumonia and even more. Both your videos and Steve's have helped me get through and get back to health. Thank you for what you do; it means a lot to me.
Thank you for following along. So sorry to hear about your health struggles. I sure Steve will agree we are happy you found some help in our videos. It'd viewers like you that make it a joy to share the work with. Cheers, Bob
Really taking shape nicely. Watching and learning how a very skilled craftsman repurposes old pieces of history into another beautiful piece of usable art.
Fantastic Bob, Truly living up to your motto of making things beautiful. The match on the plugs on the transom certainly showcased your artist's eye. Thank you for sharing and have a great week.
Really enjoying watching you build this boat. Has anyone given any thought to the final weight? I’m trying to imagine dragging it over a rocky beach and flipping it upside down for storage.
9:10 why is the epoxy coat needed on top of peel ply since it won’t go through peel? I thought you peel off the ply and then put on final coat and will be really smooth.
Hi Jerry, Peel ply is fabric so the epoxy does penetrate it. Here is a quick video by TotalBoat showing the process. ruclips.net/video/D7c-r2qPa-4/видео.html Thanks for your question. Cheers, Bob
If you plan to use epoxy together with cloth of any type (glass, carbon, peelply) in the future, you may want to consider looking in a vacuum bag setup. I think it is absolutely worth it - for finish quality and adhesion / bonding.
Love the work. I've not built or worked on a wooden boat since Dad passed 12 years ago, but still admire the works of others. As well as that wrist watch You're wearing. Lol. Where did You find it? Or is it available on Your store website? I didn't see it in there.
That is Peel Ply. It’s a release fabric mainly made of nylon. It insures a smooth finish without the need to sand cured epoxy for finish coats. I will lightly sand it as it does have a a fabric texture so as to get a smooth varnish finish as the final step.
Hi Walter, Not yet! We have not had significant ice this year. The ice fishermen Steve and I have check with only had one day to be on the ice safely.(54º f here today) We are planning a trip to MN in a couple of weeks. Iceboat owner, Steve has a daughter that lives a hour north of Minneapolis plenty of ice there till April! Stay tuned as I'll do a video on the boat and trip soon! Thanks for asking. Bob
Bob, such wonderful work! Did I miss when you sealed the open ends of the bulkhead plywood and transom? If you didn't can you explain your thinking? Also, can you explain your choices on varnish? I was thinking on this craft, which will not expand and flex as much as traditional boat, a 2 part varnish would be harder and more durable. I bet it has to do with repair-ability. Getting ready to start annual varnish work on my 64 YO yawl. We only use single part because of well, everything.
I did not seal the bulkhead edges because the planks will be glued to them. Bare wood=better adhesion. Most of the tender’s life it will be upside down on the cabin roof. I’m not sure about 2 part varnish but epoxy is not UV resident so a good UV resist varnish is important. Steve will undoubtedly have a yearly varnish schedule. I’m using the same varnish as he. I wholeheartedly agree with your last sentence! Cheers, Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thank you, I expected there was a reasonable answer on the end sealing. The manufacturers say the 2 part varnish is very UV stable, but when it fails, there is no repairing it to my knowledge, you have to strip and do again. I tried the total boat Lust and didn't like the way it behaved, so am staying with my 1015. I go through about a gallon a year... I have been impressed by most of their products otherwise.
Slotted bronze screws are traditionally used on wooden boat. I'm building the dinghy to be a traditional boat as possible as it Steve with Arabella. Cheers, Bob
I'm concerned the dagger board trunk might fail. The dagger board under sail will stress the glue and the braid nails holding the trunk together. A leak there could be a real problem so I would recommend more robust fasteners.
You are underestimating the strength of 3M 5200. Amazingly strong adhesive offers permanent adhesion to wood, gelcoat and fiberglass. In addition, this marine adhesive sealant is flexible and allows for structural movement and dissipation of stress that may be caused by vibration, swelling, shrinking or shock. I appreciate your concern, However, this is the best method for sealing and adhering the daggerboard trunk.
Hi. I love your videos. Very soothing first thing in the morning with a cup of coffee. I have some questions/observations….you painted the bulk heads with epoxy bulkhead paint but you did not paint the spacer bars. Aren’t they also exposed to water?
Hi Andrew, If by spacer bar you're referring to the 1" spacers in between the dagger trunk sides, they were removed. At 13:13 I paint a stripe of bilge paint that is the 1" space in the dagger trunk. Thanks for watching! Bob
I'm curious how you lined up the stern post when you drilled it into the transom at around 19:17. I don't see any markings, and it's not clamped into place. In fact, it even moves a bit when you drill. That's the kind of thing that I'd take way too long to figure out, worrying that it could come out a little off. I've seen you use your eye a lot. I wonder if that's the case here.
While in the strong back I put a couple dabs of hot glue that held it long enough to get pilot holes drilled. Then removed the glue. There were some very faint marks that the camera could not see. Great question thank for watching.
Looking at you bending over while making the sheer plank lines made me think you could do with an adjustable height mechanism on your strongback, similar perhaps to the adjustable lifts motorcycle mechanics use to raise and lower the bike as needed so the area they are working on is at 'working level' - saves a lot of aches and pains over time :).
Hi Jim, It’s is only true if you use a tapered plug ( like a bottle cork)and drive it in so the plug is wider than the hole. Or if the plug is end grain, like a dowel rod. What I did was to create a plug with a plug cutter that has parallel sides. I always orient the grain the same way with similar wood that helps hide the hole. Being the same wood if one expands the other will at the same rate. The other factor in my case is the transom is coated in epoxy so moisture is not a concern. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob
I asked the same question at WoodenBoat School and got the same answer. In addition, the teacher stressed the importance of using a driver that intimately matches the slot. There was the reason for my inappropriate disrespect of the oldest screw head design.
Why is that dagger board trunk not screwed to the bulkheads? brads seem hardly sufficient in a stress environment. That knee at the transom is a beautiful piece. Almost a shame to get it wet...;0)
The strength of 3M 5200 is an amazingly strong adhesive it offers permanent adhesion to wood, gelcoat and fiberglass. In addition, this marine adhesive sealant is flexible and allows for structural movement and dissipation of stress that may be caused by vibration, swelling, shrinking or shock. This is the best method for sealing and adhering the daggerboard trunk.
OUCH!! Using a slotted screwdriver one handed over top of a finished piece. I trust you can do this without worrying but cringed at myself for even thinking of attempting it. Insta-gouge guaranteed.
The issue most have of a slotted screwdriver slipping is because the improper screwdriver was use. It's important that the thickness of the blade properly meets the width of the screw slot. Sometimes the driver meeting the slot is so that the screw will stick to the end of the screwdriver. Proper screwdriver for the screw guaranteed success. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob
wondering: are those iron nails in the nail gun? if so, wont that result in iron sickness down the road? just from what I heard on other boat building channels, please forgive me if my total lack of real knowledge shows here :)
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Every episode is just great. The meticulous construction, detailed explanations, superb camera work and well paced presentation make these a joy to watch. Look at how he even takes care to line up the screw head slots….love it!
Decades ago I was working with a carpenter who took great pains with a joint that would never be seen. I asked him why. He said, "I'll know it's there." I've followed his lead and am pleased that you do the same.
Knee replacement surgery was a complete success.
Indeed!
This is a great comment. Well said 😂
Watching Steve and Arabella over the years, there's been a series of "it's looking like a boat now" moments. When the keel timbers were stood up, "it's looking like a boat now". When the planking was done, then the decking. More recently when the tent came down and you could see the hull, the deck, and the house top together, it's really looking like a boat now.
I had the same feeling when the transom and stern post went into the mold, "it's looking like a boat now". Thanks for taking the extra moment to line up all the screws, the little details really all make a difference!
Impressive work. Watching the wooden plugs disappear was also impressive.
As always, a great job of not only doing the work, but clearly explaining the process. Well done!
Glad you decided to remake the post from "original" wood! But I'm amazed at how strong the ash wood is!
Nice how the holes in the transom disappear!
Screw head alignment is art! Check ! 😁
Thank you so much for your work!
Greetings
The quality of the camera work and editing is outstanding.
When watching these videos it becomes obvious that the involved work is a labour of love.Roly🇬🇧.
I'm not sure which craft will be more beautiful. Steve and the gang are doing an amazing job with Arabella and you are certainly following your motto of making it beautiful. One thing that I am certain of is that together they will be stunning!
I find myself waiting for a new episode as I have gone through all of your dingy build for Arrabella and the Haven. I have watched the former mostly on the YMCA tread mill and I must say I get mesmerized by your poise, descriptions, work methods and results so much so that before I know it my work out session is over. One can see it is a love/passion of yours.
Thanks Joseph!
This may end up being the most "well used"...and loved, piece of art you have created. The stories it will tell in the 30 years. Yes, make it beautiful or as dad taught me, make it look like something you made instead of something you found. What a labor of love.
Wow, thank you!
Watching each station mold fade in with its blue tape outline nicely brought out the shape of the boat. That was a nice touch of editing.
Thank you! Cheers!
Your sense of detail is really extraordinary! Putting all the screw slots in the same direction is only one example of your meticulousness.
My gosh! It IS beautiful. Your workmanship is a pleasure to watch. Reminds me of my grandfather. He was a Master Cabinetmaker and all round carpenter. I apprenticed under him for one year at age 15. That was in 1955. I still miss him.
Thanks Rex, you’re a lucky one to have that experience with your grandfather. I too had a grandfather with incredible skills. I loved to sit in his shop watching him work. I was 11 when he passed in 1965. I wished I’d been older like you to be taught more. Great memories! Thanks so much for sharing and the high compliment.
Cheers,
Bob
I call you the Mr. Rogers of boat building. I appreciate your efforts and professionalism.
Thank you! I take that as a height complement.
You are doing a first class job on that tender Sir. REally enjoy watching you build her.
💙 I have been concerned whether you would finish in time. So much so, that I've not let myself watch much.
Today, 🙉 I realized, when I saw that tiny knee, that I've been living with Arabella's size work, and the length of time Steve has been working.
So . . . Enjoy! 💙
Starts to look more and more like a boat.
Excellent production as usual. Make it beautiful. You certainly are doing that. 👍👍Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Thank you! You too!
I was glad to see you made sure the heads of the screws were all vertical and lined up
Great work ... I like how you take the time to go over the tips and tricks .... preventative lol
I'm really enjoying this series... Your dedication to using the reclaimed wood from Victoria is commendable! However, I'm assuming it has doubled the construction time involved... I hope folks appreciate that fact. Additionally, you building a boat this size condenses the lessons to be learned... I find that helpful as some of the larger, longer projects are kind of overwhelming to watch. Great work my friend!!
So many questions! What are the characteristics of tamarack which make is so good for knees? I live in Australia, where it is not available. Why use a Forstner bit rather than a spade bit? I love the name of your varnish. Again, not available here.
Cheers, David.
@@davidbamford4721 spade bits can tear out easier than a forster bit.
Tamarack is considered a soft wood that is highly rot and insect resistant. Tamarack grows in bogs so it naturally create right angle bends which makes it perfect for boat building knees.
Tamarack is similar to Larch.
Quarlow gave the reason for a Forstner bit.
Thanks for you question!
Bob
I really like the knee from Victory for the stern post and how you did away with the holes. Great workmanship.
Love "if your going to make it, make it beautiful".
Nice Job Bob, bulkheads have come along well. Can't wait to see how this boat going to look after she's got a few planks on her frames. Should look good.
Maybe some Copper rivets thru it to match Arabellas look would be a nice touch.
Beautiful as usual Bob. It's a shame the knee won't be seen. And kudos again from a charter member of the ASSC (American Society of Screw Clockers)!
Can start to see the first pieces of the real Victoria coming together. The family begin to reunite :)
As we have come to expect, workmanship of the very highest order, verging on artistic!
Toujours précis et impeccable, from France 👍👍
Bob, I found myself grinning ear to ear as I watch you meticulously align all the permanent screw slots in the same vertical orientation; if you're going to build it... So you know, what you (and Steve) are doing is much more than building boats and publishing content. You're also helping a lot of us, well me in particular, get through some rough situations. Back during the quarantine, I first found A2A and you when you helped on his project. Since then, for me, there's been two major surgeries, covid twice, pneumonia and even more. Both your videos and Steve's have helped me get through and get back to health. Thank you for what you do; it means a lot to me.
Thank you for following along. So sorry to hear about your health struggles. I sure Steve will agree we are happy you found some help in our videos. It'd viewers like you that make it a joy to share the work with.
Cheers,
Bob
Really taking shape nicely. Watching and learning how a very skilled craftsman repurposes old pieces of history into another beautiful piece of usable art.
Fantastic Bob, Truly living up to your motto of making things beautiful. The match on the plugs on the transom certainly showcased your artist's eye. Thank you for sharing and have a great week.
It's starting to look like a boat!
Excellent work Bob. It's fun getting to the "payoff". Great to see the hull take shape.
North/South screw orientation. Nice.
Making amazing progress! She's coming along beautifully!
Thanks. Looking Beautiful.
I am beginning to understand how much prep work you had to go through to get this far. Great job. That is a ton of work.
Fantastic progress Bob. It is looking beautiful. Looking forward to seeing the planking episode. Thanks for sharing.
What a great project, finest quality work as always, and beautiful too.
Thank you very much!
I have no other words. This work is simply excellent!
Thanks for including the metric dimensions!!
My pleasure, thanks for watching.
Great progress. Victoria promises to last every bit as long as Arabella.👍
As always beautiful work!
Simply beautiful, greetings from Quilpue,Chile...
I have never used the razor blade method on any of the brightwork I've done. Thanks !
The master at work…outstanding..
your videos are always one excellent class , congratulations and good winds !
Thanks, you too!
Thanks for the tip about ironing peel ply Bob
Your welcome.
Outstanding creation !
Nice work!
Excellent screws slot alignment!
Thanks!!
Nice work and good progress !!!
Awesome...
G'day, good to see another one of your videos. Especially one related to Acorn to Arabella.
Love your content. 😋
Amazing work, Bob! It's looking beautiful! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
great job, helping out A to A !!!! your work looks EXcellent !!!
Clear packing tape works much better than the blue painters tape.I use it on certain areas when I'm making carbon fiber or fiberglass parts.
And it is much cheaper!
This is the bees grown knees! 🐝
Beautiful AND amazing!
Really enjoying watching you build this boat. Has anyone given any thought to the final weight? I’m trying to imagine dragging it over a rocky beach and flipping it upside down for storage.
No idea yet. Hopefully as light as possible. I'll have a good idea once the hull is glassed.
Thanks for watching!
9:10 why is the epoxy coat needed on top of peel ply since it won’t go through peel? I thought you peel off the ply and then put on final coat and will be really smooth.
Hi Jerry,
Peel ply is fabric so the epoxy does penetrate it. Here is a quick video by TotalBoat showing the process.
ruclips.net/video/D7c-r2qPa-4/видео.html
Thanks for your question.
Cheers,
Bob
I often wonder if Steve watches each episode and is exited as we watches are as the tender build progresses?
Excellent Bob. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it
Looks great! Bet Steve will love this video...rr
If you plan to use epoxy together with cloth of any type (glass, carbon, peelply) in the future, you may want to consider looking in a vacuum bag setup. I think it is absolutely worth it - for finish quality and adhesion / bonding.
Love the work. I've not built or worked on a wooden boat since Dad passed 12 years ago, but still admire the works of others. As well as that wrist watch You're wearing. Lol. Where did You find it? Or is it available on Your store website? I didn't see it in there.
Good job Sir! Thank you for sharing. Is it okay to say, "Its really starting to look like a boat... err... tender... now"?
Oh yes!
Thanks another fantastic video great to watch
Glad you enjoyed it
Thinking of the peel ply with wrinkles, would vacuuming help with that issue?
What is the “paper” product you used on the transom and then removed the next day? What is the purpose in that.
Thanks much !
That is Peel Ply. It’s a release fabric mainly made of nylon. It insures a smooth finish without the need to sand cured epoxy for finish coats. I will lightly sand it as it does have a a fabric texture so as to get a smooth varnish finish as the final step.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thanks so much. I could not understand the name of the product. Looks like a great idea.
Looking good. Did you get to sail the ice boat? Thanks
Hi Walter,
Not yet! We have not had significant ice this year. The ice fishermen Steve and I have check with only had one day to be on the ice safely.(54º f here today) We are planning a trip to MN in a couple of weeks. Iceboat owner, Steve has a daughter that lives a hour north of Minneapolis plenty of ice there till April!
Stay tuned as I'll do a video on the boat and trip soon!
Thanks for asking.
Bob
Bob, such wonderful work! Did I miss when you sealed the open ends of the bulkhead plywood and transom? If you didn't can you explain your thinking? Also, can you explain your choices on varnish? I was thinking on this craft, which will not expand and flex as much as traditional boat, a 2 part varnish would be harder and more durable. I bet it has to do with repair-ability. Getting ready to start annual varnish work on my 64 YO yawl. We only use single part because of well, everything.
I did not seal the bulkhead edges because the planks will be glued to them. Bare wood=better adhesion.
Most of the tender’s life it will be upside down on the cabin roof. I’m not sure about 2 part varnish but epoxy is not UV resident so a good UV resist varnish is important.
Steve will undoubtedly have a yearly varnish schedule. I’m using the same varnish as he. I wholeheartedly agree with your last sentence!
Cheers,
Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thank you, I expected there was a reasonable answer on the end sealing. The manufacturers say the 2 part varnish is very UV stable, but when it fails, there is no repairing it to my knowledge, you have to strip and do again. I tried the total boat Lust and didn't like the way it behaved, so am staying with my 1015. I go through about a gallon a year... I have been impressed by most of their products otherwise.
Coming along nicely. For the peel coat; If it was wrapped around a roller would it be easier?
Hi Peter,
I did have it wrapped around a tube. Extra hands is the easier answer.
Thanks for watching!
Bob
Excellent work! Any info on the watch you wear? Nice timepiece!
Why do you only use slot head screws?
Slotted bronze screws are traditionally used on wooden boat. I'm building the dinghy to be a traditional boat as possible as it Steve with Arabella.
Cheers,
Bob
Wonderful series! Why are the spacers in the Dagger Board not treated with the bilge paint, or have I missed something?
Hi Peter,
The spacers were removed not apart of the finished boat.
Thanks for watching!
I'm concerned the dagger board trunk might fail. The dagger board under sail will stress the glue and the braid nails holding the trunk together. A leak there could be a real problem so I would recommend more robust fasteners.
You are underestimating the strength of 3M 5200. Amazingly strong adhesive offers permanent adhesion to wood, gelcoat and fiberglass. In addition, this marine adhesive sealant is flexible and allows for structural movement and dissipation of stress that may be caused by vibration, swelling, shrinking or shock.
I appreciate your concern, However, this is the best method for sealing and adhering the daggerboard trunk.
Hi. I love your videos. Very soothing first thing in the morning with a cup of coffee. I have some questions/observations….you painted the bulk heads with epoxy bulkhead paint but you did not paint the spacer bars. Aren’t they also exposed to water?
Hi Andrew,
If by spacer bar you're referring to the 1" spacers in between the dagger trunk sides, they were removed. At 13:13 I paint a stripe of bilge paint that is the 1" space in the dagger trunk.
Thanks for watching!
Bob
I must have missed that part. I knew there had to be a reason!
Why do you not paint the edges (sides) of any of the bulkheads/transom?
Hi Katrin,
The edges will get the planks glued and fastened to them. So bare wood for the glue to adhere well.
Thanks for watching!
Bob
I'm curious how you lined up the stern post when you drilled it into the transom at around 19:17. I don't see any markings, and it's not clamped into place. In fact, it even moves a bit when you drill. That's the kind of thing that I'd take way too long to figure out, worrying that it could come out a little off. I've seen you use your eye a lot. I wonder if that's the case here.
While in the strong back I put a couple dabs of hot glue that held it long enough to get pilot holes drilled. Then removed the glue.
There were some very faint marks that the camera could not see.
Great question thank for watching.
Looking at you bending over while making the sheer plank lines made me think you could do with an adjustable height mechanism on your strongback, similar perhaps to the adjustable lifts motorcycle mechanics use to raise and lower the bike as needed so the area they are working on is at 'working level' - saves a lot of aches and pains over time :).
Hey Bob i have heard that a plug can split a board due faster moisture absorption? Thus grain should be perpendicular to the grain? any thoughts?
Hi Jim,
It’s is only true if you use a tapered plug ( like a bottle cork)and drive it in so the plug is wider than the hole. Or if the plug is end grain, like a dowel rod. What I did was to create a plug with a plug cutter that has parallel sides.
I always orient the grain the same way with similar wood that helps hide the hole. Being the same wood if one expands the other will at the same rate.
The other factor in my case is the transom is coated in epoxy so moisture is not a concern.
Thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Bob
What is the white glue you seem to use everywhere?
Titebond III
What plastic nailer are you using? Source?
Raptor nailsraptornails.com/store/product/omer-12p-25h-pneumatic-nailer/
Thanks but I am unable to find price or a place to purchase 🤥
Sorry, to get the price you have to place the items in the cart. No need to reply… Best wishes.
I want to marry that mahogany
fantastic job! can i ask a question, what are nails made of? thank you
Where do you mount the cannon?
Any particular reason why you use slotted screws instead of more modern drives like pozidriv or torx?
Slotted bronze screws are traditionally used in wooden boats. It's important to me and Steve Denette that the boat be as traditional as possible.
I asked the same question at WoodenBoat School and got the same answer. In addition, the teacher stressed the importance of using a driver that intimately matches the slot. There was the reason for my inappropriate disrespect of the oldest screw head design.
Did you remove the initial battens from the inside of the CB trunk?
Yes
Choosing those knees was proper! Wouldn’t even consider NOT using them. 👍🤟🤙👍🤟🤟
Why is that dagger board trunk not screwed to the bulkheads? brads seem hardly sufficient in a stress environment. That knee at the transom is a beautiful piece. Almost a shame to get it wet...;0)
The strength of 3M 5200 is an amazingly strong adhesive it offers permanent adhesion to wood, gelcoat and fiberglass. In addition, this marine adhesive sealant is flexible and allows for structural movement and dissipation of stress that may be caused by vibration, swelling, shrinking or shock.
This is the best method for sealing and adhering the daggerboard trunk.
👍
OUCH!! Using a slotted screwdriver one handed over top of a finished piece. I trust you can do this without worrying but cringed at myself for even thinking of attempting it. Insta-gouge guaranteed.
The issue most have of a slotted screwdriver slipping is because the improper screwdriver was use. It's important that the thickness of the blade properly meets the width of the screw slot. Sometimes the driver meeting the slot is so that the screw will stick to the end of the screwdriver. Proper screwdriver for the screw guaranteed success.
Thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Bob
My back would be killing me in 5 min working on those low pieces
Surprised to see you using a nail gun on Victoria. I always used the appropriate screws in the boats I built. Are they copper or other special alloy?
Hi Dale,
Plastic nails designed for this application. www.raptornails.com/
Cheers,
Bob
wondering: are those iron nails in the nail gun? if so, wont that result in iron sickness down the road? just from what I heard on other boat building channels, please forgive me if my total lack of real knowledge shows here :)
The nails are plastic here is a link: www.raptornails.com/
O wow, didnt think that possible. Thanks for reducing my ignorance.