I liked your clear, humble explanation of how you keep your table in good shape. You'll go far because you are teachable! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Thanks for the tips. I've been introduced to beeswax as a finish for my blacksmithing - it holds up under a decent beating and smells great when it heats up.
Well done, good video. The water/moisture on your table when you’re heating it is the water vapour from the gas combustion condensing on the colder steel. When gas burns, it mainly creates water and carbon dioxide, and water will easily condense on room temp metal
just bought a very old steel workbench. Spent days grinding and cleaning the legs and was really starting to wonder how I was going to clean the surface. Thank you! Thank you! I now know exactly what to do. I have all these tools (including the very old 9" grinder) and won't need a sandblaster.
My table was made from an old trailer I had a guy build many years ago. It is surprisingly flat. Never cleaned it and didn't even have a clue it needed it or how it could be done. Thanks for the good info. My table is the horizontal surface that catches everything I have in my hands that I am too lazy to deal with in a moment or just don't know what to do with. I hadn't thought about just throwing stuff away after a period of non-use. Lot's of food for thought. I'm going to be a lot more productive now...
Hey Robert, Im glad you left this comment. I just spent this past weekend getting the shop back in order after a few weeks off from welding projects. Needless to say my table had become a catch-all and was a disaster. Thanks for commenting.
I’ve welded at a few places, ranging from very small privately owned shops to very large assembly lines. None of them ever worried about oiling or waxing any of the work surfaces. Just the daily work on them and associates daily cleanup keeps them all looking good, never seen a single spot of rust on any table surface, even ones that are 20+ years old
All those rusty stains on top of his welding table at the 02:00 minute mark are what some people refer to as rust. If you and assembly line Joe Six pack have seen those stains on your welding stables for the last 20 years and never clean them, thats not the same them not being there.
yeah, the first swipe of the torch in cold weather always leaves a decent dew-layer on the surface of the steel. after that, once it heats up past boiling temp, you are then taking moisture out of the steel. it shocked me how prevalent that myth is when i first started welding. Everyone in the steel industry should be aware that an oxy-acetylene torch produces water vapor when it burns. the first pass with the torch actually introduces more water to your steel, until its warm enough to evaporate away
Burning a each molecule of propane creates 3 molecules of carbon Dioxide and 4 water molecules. There is no significant water in the surface of the steel.
i also use a paste wax on my table saw. one it keeps the rust down longer and for the saw the wood slides better as well. I have heard that bees Way works very good too.
Great video! I'm converting a commercial kitchen table into a small welding table at the moment and all I had for the surface was a roughish steel plate 8mm thick. I was just thinking how to clean up the surface when I saw your video. I now know how to do it. Many thanks.
Well done sir, I loved the video, very informative. I was recently given a used piece of ¾ plate that I’m turning into a welding table. Your video was just what I needed. Thanks for taking the time to share.
Great tip. I’m new to welding and want to build a smaller table. Could you do another video that shows beneath the table to see how you made your welding accessories (clamps, holders, etc)
LOL I haven't cleaned my welding surface since buying my everlast welders several years ago. It needs a deep clean. Thanks for the tips and the reminder I need to keep in better shape more often.
@David F I know this sounds weird, but; I'm beginning to think that Everlast has either "bots", or people on the payroll that post comments on welding channels. I so often see comments like "I can't wait to try this with my Everlast welder!" or "I do this all the time with my Everlast welder!"
@David F I'm a Miller guy, myself. Have been since welding school in 91-93. Lincoln made great machines, the old SA's are legendary in the pipeline industry. But yeah, you never see a comment saying "I can do this real good with my Miller welder!"
Ahh the RUclips age. "Everlast". Seems to be the holy grail in welders these days. Never used one, but they must be like welding with a Star Wars light saber. I had a good laugh today--was cleaning out the dark end of a storage container and ran across my first welding machine; a Lincoln buzz box, bought new in 1978 for $99.00 + tax. Built a ton of stuff with that little bitch, and she still runs. Just a little cackle from an old timer. Don't get me wrong all you youngans; these dial-in volts & amps are the rage and I truly appreciate the new tech. But I have a lot of young friends working shops handed down from their dads with trusty old Lincoln's in the corner, and they still work. Now that's the true definition of 'Everlast'. Just my opinion.
Production shop owner NYC Iron Work by Cropey here since 1956. Between jobs we sweep and ALWAYS grind at about a 5 DEGREE ANGLE. We don't eat off our 6 tables we do ironworks. You need to mention that it's a generally unsafe practice to use a disk flat.
Your instruction on the disks has helped me thanks! But I come from the electronics filed, and I wonder if the wax makes it harder to use a clamp on the work surface because of the insulating properties of the wax? Maybe you just clamp on the work piece?
Wow man you go all out on that baby! You should get a wider chisel scraper to get it done a little faster 👌 that 9” without a guard kinda scares me a little bit but hey to each their own. Glad to see someone so humble and willing to hear constructive criticism
Thanks for watching! ....thanks for the tips also. (PS, the grinder is an old hand-me-down from my grandfather. I probably should search ebay for a guard)
UnitedStatesofBuild id really like to try out one of those flaring cup grinding wheels for table cleanup. Seems like you could get a nice flat surface and I bet it would last a lot longer than a regular wheel. I think the biggest they sell is 6”?
Ive been trying to keep a sheet over my lathe when grinding, sanding etc. But that may not be an issue for you, it looks to be relatively far away. Awesome video
I clean my table off brush it off knock off spatter hit it with a wire wheel on a grinder then clean it off with acetone then let it sit for half an hour or so and then wipe it off and put a little oil on a rag and wipe it down. I'll put a good bit of oil on it if I'm not gonna have a lot of use on the table for a few weeks so it doesn't start to get a lot of surface rust. I built my table last year it's 3ft x 4ft and the top is 1 inch thick plate steel. The legs are 2 inch schedule 40 pipe with 3/8 inch thick triangle gussets in the corners and 1inch pipe between the legs that I put expanded metal sheet on to use forms shelf and I made the legs adjustable length so I can level it out no matter where it is. And heavy duty locking casters at each corner.
I'd I don't use it for a couple weeks I do but I usually wipe it down before I use it anyways cause my garage is extremely old and stuff like to drop onto it from who knows where
Mine is very similar, just a little bigger... a few differences.. 3” pipe legs with gussets and mobile home jack posts welded inside them.. trailer jacks with casters on 4 corners.. center legs have just the jack posts. 3’ x 10’ wood 4x4 and 2x4 base glued and bolted every 8” .. power hand plane flat.. 1/8” of bed liner . 4’x12’ x 3/8” plate on that.. 3’x6’ x 3/8” angle around the perimeter... surprisingly flat for the size.... can also level on most surfaces... wax is the way to go👍
Thanks for the tip of wax. I used any kind of oily products, but they gather dust quite fast! I always learn something new with your videos! BTW, we still have a full coverage of snow... You might get your first crops while I get the first bits of green grass!
i like your techniques.I would like to let you know that I prefer a 9 inch wheel type 28 in a 7 inch grinder .for the hard wheel.type 28 for anyone who does not know it is designated flat ,but is slightly concave.Also be VERY careful around the edges,way dangerous.Not for the beginner.Flat surfaces only.One more time very dangerous; it is grinding.I believe you use a type 27 ,which if i am not mistaken ,but could be is a depressed center flat wheel .When grinding in the flat by hand type 28 is a little easier to handle,still dangerous.The grit is usually more appropriate.Max RPM is usually lower.When used properly it last a lot longer,with no need for soft disks or flapper disks that can gouge the table.
I got lucky and found some aerospace surplus on craigslist. It's a 2" thick machine surfaced piece of 6061 aluminum with 5/8 holes cnc drilled on a 2" grid pattern. The bottom of the holes have a steel 1/2 13 threaded insert pressed in. I can use strong arm type clamps and tooling or set up blocks and clamps from my milling machine accessories to bolt parts down. Cleaning it isn't a big deal because only the biggest bb's are hot enough to stick. The soot from the mig blackens the surface but WD40 wipes it off. I wouldn't dare touch it with a grinder...I can still see the machined surface marks so I know it's flat. Still need to build a nice base for it... working on a design.. maybe I'll try your wax trick..thanks for the tip!
Yeah, I feel really blessed to have found it. It's 39"×6'.. it looks like it was a pallet for a cnc machining center. I wish it was a little bit bigger but it's about the right width to reach to the middle of.. I think I will incorporate some slide out extension arms to support longer projects when I build a base for it.
Nice tip on the paste. I like the idea of scraping of the slag with a chisel first. My Dad taught me that one. Said grinding a slag will cause small dips each side of the slag point. He also showed me how quick it is to use a belt sander. It's flat and there's no digging in. A consistent flat grind. Wish you well . I'll subscribe :)
Thanks for watching! Interesting about grinding the slag causing a dip. I have a nice belt sander, I was worried about ripping belts and damaging the pad. You have pretty good luck with it though?
I'm on the wood working end of things, and I'm used to thinking of 150g as minimum level of smooth., and finishing @ 400g. Have you considered polishing it? I'm thinking an automotive polisher. They run about 30 bucks or so. Use it with the paste wax.
My process to clean my table is a lot like yours. Knock the weld berries off first. Then use the 7" grinder with a strip disc on it. I then spray the table with Zylol and scrub it with a green Scotch Bright pad. I then wipe clean with shop towels. I then spray the table down with some T-9 Boeshield.
Boeshield T9 aerosol and liquid lubricants have a unique solvent parrafin wax formula that penetrates, cleans, and displaces moisture. I get it from E-bay. www.ebay.com/itm/Boeshield-T9-Aerosol-Chain-Lube-and-Rust-Inhibitor-12oz/361257678738?epid=27018498525&hash=item541ca2b792:rk:1:pf:0
I live in West Texas with very low humidity, I have stopped using Boeshield I was seeing oxidation on my table saw (cast Iron) I have gone back to Johnson’s paste wax, I did the same when I lived on the east coast near the ocean, the wax worked best for me.
Ceramic welding spray is what I use on my table. Once a week, I grind it flat, clean it with compressed air, and reapply. Edit: Loctite SF 7900. It's intended for the nozzle, but works on any surface really.
Just remember that the welding table surface needs to be as conductive as possible, so make sure that nothing you do lowers that conductivity. Some finishes do just that. So, check first.
my last comment.....was we think alike...I built a slat WELDING TABLE the gaps allow me to clamp things easly with c claps...so right. an the approach on feeling the wheel FLAT.. ....one question I've seen a machinist blacken machine tools he made.. is their any to do the same to the top of your table..he dropped the finished parts into a small container then when removed they looked GREAT any ideas out THERE thanks again for the great posting one guy thumbs down..I doing get it...I don't walk on water but I'm willing to learn ...
I've watched some videos on bluing solution, used for gun parts. I'm building a 1953 chevy COE and wanted my tiedown pockets to be black instead of zinc coated. It was rather easy to do a muriatic acid wash, then neutralize and wash with water, then into the bluing solution. Might be a big pain to do the top of a weld table, containing the acid and getting everything neutralized.
@@joshtonry4291 A preheat and wipedown with cold blue could work for a table, but it would be a huge pain and the surface would need to be very polished to take a good blue.
@@anonymousgeorge4321 When you blue something, it has to be oiled. Blueing is accelerated, controlled rust; the oil is the barrier, not the blue. This is what I meant by it being a huge pain.
This works well on firearms as well. Remove the grips, Clean well and put it in the oven until it 'Hot to touch" (Around 120 degrees only). then use the paste wax. Works better then oils and keep them from rusting while in storage or from the acids in your sweat.
OMG. The nonsense on this thread is unbearable. Strip your guns and put them in an oven to 'pre-heat' for a "storage" application of wax??? You gotta be joking here. No wonder our 2nd amendment is under 'fire'. Unbelievable.
I'm going to build a table on my channel but not that heavy duty. I have a 4x8 sheet that I will build my main table and a table for bench grinder and bench drill press.
I see that you have the layout holes on the tabe, would you recommend that i do the same to my table? I would probably get them cut out with a plasma table.
I would def do them again if I ever did another table, they are super useful. Be sure to lay them out so that at any given spot two clamps can clamp the same small part.
The hard Rock placed flat is the key. Surface grind by hand. It will keep the table flat and not gouged up. Also don't weld or tack on the surface. Great video education and very important if you want to be a good fabricator.
First time I saw this care of a important work space. Most of the shops I ever work in I wish the work table was not flat at all? If they could be round like a horizontal drum I think people would stop trying to constantly set junk and some unfinished projects that never ever ever get done. Am I the only one else out there that needs a water canteen and compass to find the end of a airline hose or extension cords!!
Can this be done over millscale? Do you have an alternative suggestion for removing millscale where grinding and sanding is time prohibitive due to the surface area size?
I love the video, I'm about to build my first welding table next week and I was looking to prevent the rust. I currently use rainX wax on all my woodworking tools from table saw to lathes and mills. I probably will try out the rainx on the welding table also..but I just didn't know if it would create more hazardous fumes. Any how thanks for the video.
Awesome man, RainX makes good stuff. I use similar turtle wax spray 'n dry on my cars AND on some of my tool surfaces. Try out some paste wax sometime! Also, thanks for watching!
Yeh, I think it would be a benefit. I wet blasted this top right after it was built and then I just do the maintenance that I depicted in this video and its been fine over the years.
Yes, the mill scale is non conductive, so most of it should be cleaned off. Maybe not a problem on stick welding, due to higher starting voltage, but i found it to be a problem with Mig /Mag welding. In fact i overheated a grinder (even a Makita!), while grinding with a coarse flap disc. The industral way to strip the scale is to use muriatic acid, then neutralize with baking soda/water, then grind again. This proces is of course best done outdoors, before you assemble the table (neither did i, that's why i burned the grinder).
WD-40 is another option after grinding and polishing. You’ll have to apply it more often and unfortunately attracts dust and grinding dust. Good shit on taking the time to do something more thorough bruh🤙🏼
5:00 That's not all water from the table, part of it is the exhaust gases of the torch contain water. First the surface is cold and a lot moisture condensates, then later when its hot it can't anymore.
I don't think WD-40 isn't alcohol based. Still, your point stands. It is not the product for this application. I'll try wax on my welding table. I've also used Fluid Film, which does leave a somewhat greasy layer.
5:01 I bet you that a substantial portion of the observed moisture is a by product of combustion condensing on to your cold table. Once the table is sufficiently warmed the water evaporates and no longer condenses.
no I was curious on how to keep it nice. Wax seeems like a good idea but I guess it boils away and stuff still sticks to the table? Maybe if the wax was soaked into a blued layer it would stop sticking to the table (but you would need to use a magnetic or other clamp for the ground). Just trying to find the best economical solution.
The solution I Have in mind currently is to get a sacrificail top layer for the table thats like 1/4 inch or less for non precise work in the form of plates and for precise work to take a bunch of those firebricks, put little plastic slide-feet on them, rubber coat them (i made one coated in liquid rubber as a test with all layers covered but top) and arrange them around the work piece like a jigsaw puzzel so splatter falls on top of em
Blacksmith here , blacksmiths dont use paste wax lol we make our own , its beeswax turpentine and linseed oil all melted together to a 5000 year old secret recipe ...honest :-) ..... i currently have around 30 lb of the stuff and i dont even smith atm , much better to make it yourself though as you can use it on steel or thin it down as wood polish or leather polish
I guess we have different ideas what “polish” means 😂 I don’t grind I use a 60 flap then go to a felt flap disc and a steel polish (Autosol for me) its a good protection and lasts longer than wax.
That water is not evaporating out of your metal propane contains a lot of water if you have one of those propane fire pits and you stand close to it for a long. Of time you will fill your clothing get damp and then become wet this is just happening and how much faster process because the heat is hotter and the flame is closer to the table
there was a link posted in this comment section to another video that explained the process and why the water collects. It was a good video. Thanks for the info!
I use fluid film to treat all my bare metal. Spray it on a rag and wipe it on. It's lanolin based with no solvents. Water proof, non toxic smells awful.
Im building another table as we speak, but much heavier duty. Im filming the entire process. The best part is I am building it out of all reclaimed iron and have very little $$ in it so far. Stay tuned for a video!
Yes, This is true. Just be sure not to mix any silicone spray with any parts you may want to paint later. Silicone is the enemy of surfaces that need paint Да, это правда. Только не смешивайте силиконовый спрей с деталями, которые вы захотите покрасить позже. Кремний является врагом поверхностей, которые нуждаются в покраске. Благодарность!
Check out the new table build: ruclips.net/video/0h-HyYs2DaI/видео.html
I liked your clear, humble explanation of how you keep your table in good shape. You'll go far because you are teachable! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Thanks for the tips. I've been introduced to beeswax as a finish for my blacksmithing - it holds up under a decent beating and smells great when it heats up.
Awesome video. All I need is a welding table.
same hahaha
Glad to see someone else using that stuff. I've used it for years. Thanks for the video.
Well done, good video.
The water/moisture on your table when you’re heating it is the water vapour from the gas combustion condensing on the colder steel. When gas burns, it mainly creates water and carbon dioxide, and water will easily condense on room temp metal
Happens the most with propane fuel.
just bought a very old steel workbench. Spent days grinding and cleaning the legs and was really starting to wonder how I was going to clean the surface. Thank you! Thank you! I now know exactly what to do. I have all these tools (including the very old 9" grinder) and won't need a sandblaster.
lucky ahhh
Building my first welding cart/ table. Great tip to keep everything smooth and clean. Thank you.
My table was made from an old trailer I had a guy build many years ago. It is surprisingly flat. Never cleaned it and didn't even have a clue it needed it or how it could be done. Thanks for the good info. My table is the horizontal surface that catches everything I have in my hands that I am too lazy to deal with in a moment or just don't know what to do with. I hadn't thought about just throwing stuff away after a period of non-use. Lot's of food for thought. I'm going to be a lot more productive now...
Hey Robert, Im glad you left this comment. I just spent this past weekend getting the shop back in order after a few weeks off from welding projects. Needless to say my table had become a catch-all and was a disaster. Thanks for commenting.
I’ve welded at a few places, ranging from very small privately owned shops to very large assembly lines. None of them ever worried about oiling or waxing any of the work surfaces. Just the daily work on them and associates daily cleanup keeps them all looking good, never seen a single spot of rust on any table surface, even ones that are 20+ years old
All those rusty stains on top of his welding table at the 02:00 minute mark are what some people refer to as rust. If you and assembly line Joe Six pack have seen those stains on your welding stables for the last 20 years and never clean them, thats not the same them not being there.
@@tren35 Man, your reading comprehension is awful.
The water coming off the table is because it condenses on the cold table it is a product of combustion from the torch
Thanks for stopping by! Jordan Smith has a good video on the matter.
yeah, the first swipe of the torch in cold weather always leaves a decent dew-layer on the surface of the steel. after that, once it heats up past boiling temp, you are then taking moisture out of the steel. it shocked me how prevalent that myth is when i first started welding. Everyone in the steel industry should be aware that an oxy-acetylene torch produces water vapor when it burns. the first pass with the torch actually introduces more water to your steel, until its warm enough to evaporate away
👍
@@c4call
So what's your point?
Burning a each molecule of propane creates 3 molecules of carbon Dioxide and 4 water molecules. There is no significant water in the surface of the steel.
i also use a paste wax on my table saw. one it keeps the rust down longer and for the saw the wood slides better as well. I have heard that bees Way works very good too.
I like the loops you put under the table to hold your mig gun. Gonna definitely add that to my table.
I’ve used your technique on my cast iron saw tables with excellent results here in the islands. The hardest part is clearing the surfaces!
Great video! I'm converting a commercial kitchen table into a small welding table at the moment and all I had for the surface was a roughish steel plate 8mm thick. I was just thinking how to clean up the surface when I saw your video. I now know how to do it. Many thanks.
Well done sir, I loved the video, very informative. I was recently given a used piece of ¾ plate that I’m turning into a welding table. Your video was just what I needed. Thanks for taking the time to share.
Thanks for watching!
Great tip. I’m new to welding and want to build a smaller table. Could you do another video that shows beneath the table to see how you made your welding accessories (clamps, holders, etc)
Heres the old table: ruclips.net/video/UzrWfJF1gJ0/видео.html
Heres my new table: ruclips.net/video/0h-HyYs2DaI/видео.html
Great idea with the wax I never thought of using it besides on my metal furniture. 👍🏻
LOL I haven't cleaned my welding surface since buying my everlast welders several years ago. It needs a deep clean. Thanks for the tips and the reminder I need to keep in better shape more often.
Why is the brand of welder you purchased relevant?
@David F
I know this sounds weird, but;
I'm beginning to think that Everlast has either "bots", or people on the payroll that post comments on welding channels.
I so often see comments like
"I can't wait to try this with my Everlast welder!"
or
"I do this all the time with my Everlast welder!"
@David F
I'm a Miller guy, myself.
Have been since welding school in 91-93.
Lincoln made great machines, the old SA's are legendary in the pipeline industry.
But yeah, you never see a comment saying "I can do this real good with my Miller welder!"
Ahh the RUclips age. "Everlast". Seems to be the holy grail in welders these days. Never used one, but they must be like welding with a Star Wars light saber. I had a good laugh today--was cleaning out the dark end of a storage container and ran across my first welding machine; a Lincoln buzz box, bought new in 1978 for $99.00 + tax. Built a ton of stuff with that little bitch, and she still runs. Just a little cackle from an old timer. Don't get me wrong all you youngans; these dial-in volts & amps are the rage and I truly appreciate the new tech. But I have a lot of young friends working shops handed down from their dads with trusty old Lincoln's in the corner, and they still work. Now that's the true definition of 'Everlast'. Just my opinion.
Production shop owner NYC Iron Work by Cropey here since 1956. Between jobs we sweep and ALWAYS grind at about a 5 DEGREE ANGLE. We don't eat off our 6 tables we do ironworks. You need to mention that it's a generally unsafe practice to use a disk flat.
Just started using a brand new table your care advice is most welcome 👍👍
Your instruction on the disks has helped me thanks! But I come from the electronics filed, and I wonder if the wax makes it harder to use a clamp on the work surface because of the insulating properties of the wax? Maybe you just clamp on the work piece?
Wow man you go all out on that baby! You should get a wider chisel scraper to get it done a little faster 👌 that 9” without a guard kinda scares me a little bit but hey to each their own. Glad to see someone so humble and willing to hear constructive criticism
Thanks for watching! ....thanks for the tips also. (PS, the grinder is an old hand-me-down from my grandfather. I probably should search ebay for a guard)
UnitedStatesofBuild id really like to try out one of those flaring cup grinding wheels for table cleanup. Seems like you could get a nice flat surface and I bet it would last a lot longer than a regular wheel. I think the biggest they sell is 6”?
Ive been trying to keep a sheet over my lathe when grinding, sanding etc. But that may not be an issue for you, it looks to be relatively far away. Awesome video
I clean my table off brush it off knock off spatter hit it with a wire wheel on a grinder then clean it off with acetone then let it sit for half an hour or so and then wipe it off and put a little oil on a rag and wipe it down. I'll put a good bit of oil on it if I'm not gonna have a lot of use on the table for a few weeks so it doesn't start to get a lot of surface rust. I built my table last year it's 3ft x 4ft and the top is 1 inch thick plate steel. The legs are 2 inch schedule 40 pipe with 3/8 inch thick triangle gussets in the corners and 1inch pipe between the legs that I put expanded metal sheet on to use forms shelf and I made the legs adjustable length so I can level it out no matter where it is. And heavy duty locking casters at each corner.
Pretty straight forward. Do you notice any excess dust collecting on the top from the oil residue?
I'd I don't use it for a couple weeks I do but I usually wipe it down before I use it anyways cause my garage is extremely old and stuff like to drop onto it from who knows where
Mine is very similar, just a little bigger... a few differences.. 3” pipe legs with gussets and mobile home jack posts welded inside them.. trailer jacks with casters on 4 corners.. center legs have just the jack posts. 3’ x 10’ wood 4x4 and 2x4 base glued and bolted every 8” .. power hand plane flat.. 1/8” of bed liner . 4’x12’ x 3/8” plate on that.. 3’x6’ x 3/8” angle around the perimeter... surprisingly flat for the size.... can also level on most surfaces... wax is the way to go👍
I definitely learned something from this video I like it I didn't know you could use a kind of wax on your tables and now I know thank you
Thanks for the tip of wax. I used any kind of oily products, but they gather dust quite fast! I always learn something new with your videos! BTW, we still have a full coverage of snow... You might get your first crops while I get the first bits of green grass!
Wow you're going to be snowplowing and Ill be mowing. Thanks for watching, Be sure to have a great weekend
i like your techniques.I would like to let you know that I prefer a 9 inch wheel type 28 in a 7 inch grinder .for the hard wheel.type 28 for anyone who does not know it is designated flat ,but is slightly concave.Also be VERY careful around the edges,way dangerous.Not for the beginner.Flat surfaces only.One more time very dangerous; it is grinding.I believe you use a type 27 ,which if i am not mistaken ,but could be is a depressed center flat wheel .When grinding in the flat by hand type 28 is a little easier to handle,still dangerous.The grit is usually more appropriate.Max RPM is usually lower.When used properly it last a lot longer,with no need for soft disks or flapper disks that can gouge the table.
Thanks for this info, Ill be heading over to mcmaster straight away to look up some wheel types. 👍
I got lucky and found some aerospace surplus on craigslist. It's a 2" thick machine surfaced piece of 6061 aluminum with 5/8 holes cnc drilled on a 2" grid pattern. The bottom of the holes have a steel 1/2 13 threaded insert pressed in. I can use strong arm type clamps and tooling or set up blocks and clamps from my milling machine accessories to bolt parts down. Cleaning it isn't a big deal because only the biggest bb's are hot enough to stick. The soot from the mig blackens the surface but WD40 wipes it off. I wouldn't dare touch it with a grinder...I can still see the machined surface marks so I know it's flat. Still need to build a nice base for it... working on a design.. maybe I'll try your wax trick..thanks for the tip!
Wow, that sounds too good to be true. How big is the total work surface?
Yeah, I feel really blessed to have found it. It's 39"×6'.. it looks like it was a pallet for a cnc machining center. I wish it was a little bit bigger but it's about the right width to reach to the middle of.. I think I will incorporate some slide out extension arms to support longer projects when I build a base for it.
Wow, thats a pretty good size. Ive seen some cool designs that use harbor freight hitch receivers and 2x2 box tube for extensions. Good luck!
i like the way you've set up your shop. your video gives me ideas on how to set up my own shop. thanks
Thanks for the kind words. Be sure to check out some of my other shop tour videos! THANKS!
Interesting how you put your vise out on an island like you do. I'll bet that gives you a lot of room to work around it.
my vices are installed where the top does not go above the table surface.
I put my vice on a swing away pivoting arm, if not needed, I can clear the bench completely.
Great video I will do this on my table soon. Thank you
Nice tip on the paste. I like the idea of scraping of the slag with a chisel first. My Dad taught me that one. Said grinding a slag will cause small dips each side of the slag point. He also showed me how quick it is to use a belt sander. It's flat and there's no digging in. A consistent flat grind. Wish you well . I'll subscribe :)
Thanks for watching! Interesting about grinding the slag causing a dip. I have a nice belt sander, I was worried about ripping belts and damaging the pad. You have pretty good luck with it though?
I'm on the wood working end of things, and I'm used to thinking of 150g as minimum level of smooth., and finishing @ 400g. Have you considered polishing it? I'm thinking an automotive polisher. They run about 30 bucks or so. Use it with the paste wax.
My process to clean my table is a lot like yours. Knock the weld berries off first. Then use the 7" grinder with a strip disc on it. I then spray the table with Zylol and scrub it with a green Scotch Bright pad. I then wipe clean with shop towels. I then spray the table down with some T-9 Boeshield.
Boeshield? Never heard of it. Where do you buy it?
Boeshield T9 aerosol and liquid lubricants have a unique solvent parrafin wax formula that penetrates, cleans, and displaces moisture. I get it from E-bay. www.ebay.com/itm/Boeshield-T9-Aerosol-Chain-Lube-and-Rust-Inhibitor-12oz/361257678738?epid=27018498525&hash=item541ca2b792:rk:1:pf:0
Wow, cool Ill do some research. Thanks for the tip!
UnitedStatesofBuild Your welcome.
I live in West Texas with very low humidity, I have stopped using Boeshield I was seeing oxidation on my table saw (cast Iron) I have gone back to Johnson’s paste wax, I did the same when I lived on the east coast near the ocean, the wax worked best for me.
Love the name on the channel I'm a sub now! Like the wax we've always have used anti spatter spray.
Hey Chris, glad to hear you subbed!! I hope you find the content interesting. See you on the next one.
Ceramic welding spray is what I use on my table. Once a week, I grind it flat, clean it with compressed air, and reapply. Edit: Loctite SF 7900. It's intended for the nozzle, but works on any surface really.
Just remember that the welding table surface needs to be as conductive as possible, so make sure that nothing you do lowers that conductivity. Some finishes do just that. So, check first.
Good point, Thanks for highlighting it.
Cool demo
Thanks for the link to the wax !
Hi, great video, but i didnt understand, paste wax is also protection from getting rust? Thank you.
Thanks for the video.
my last comment.....was we think alike...I built a slat WELDING TABLE the gaps allow me to clamp things easly with c claps...so right. an the approach on feeling the wheel FLAT..
....one question I've seen a machinist blacken machine tools he made.. is their any to do the same to the top of your table..he dropped the finished parts into a small container then when removed they looked GREAT any ideas out THERE thanks again for the great posting one guy thumbs down..I doing get it...I don't walk on water but I'm willing to learn ...
I've watched some videos on bluing solution, used for gun parts. I'm building a 1953 chevy COE and wanted my tiedown pockets to be black instead of zinc coated. It was rather easy to do a muriatic acid wash, then neutralize and wash with water, then into the bluing solution. Might be a big pain to do the top of a weld table, containing the acid and getting everything neutralized.
To patina steel you just need to soak it in white vinegar for a while
@@joshtonry4291
A preheat and wipedown with cold blue could work for a table, but it would be a huge pain and the surface would need to be very polished to take a good blue.
@@cavemanjoe7972 I blued the top of my table and it started getting surface rust almost immediately.
@@anonymousgeorge4321
When you blue something, it has to be oiled. Blueing is accelerated, controlled rust; the oil is the barrier, not the blue. This is what I meant by it being a huge pain.
This works well on firearms as well. Remove the grips, Clean well and put it in the oven until it 'Hot to touch" (Around 120 degrees only). then use the paste wax. Works better then oils and keep them from rusting while in storage or from the acids in your sweat.
OMG. The nonsense on this thread is unbearable. Strip your guns and put them in an oven to 'pre-heat' for a "storage" application of wax??? You gotta be joking here. No wonder our 2nd amendment is under 'fire'. Unbelievable.
Nice! Something learned! Thank you bravo
Who else loves these videos?
Excellent video, thanks!
Thanks for watching!
I'm going to build a table on my channel but not that heavy duty. I have a 4x8 sheet that I will build my main table and a table for bench grinder and bench drill press.
I see that you have the layout holes on the tabe, would you recommend that i do the same to my table? I would probably get them cut out with a plasma table.
I would def do them again if I ever did another table, they are super useful. Be sure to lay them out so that at any given spot two clamps can clamp the same small part.
mag drill. r drill bit 3/8x16 tap is what i used. allen head bolts with different hold downs. alot cheaper than the 5/8 hole tables.
Great name for a channel.
Thanks! I appreciate the compliment
great table..... awesome video
GREAT VIDEO!!!! Stealing most of your table mods. Thank you
The hard Rock placed flat is the key. Surface grind by hand. It will keep the table flat and not gouged up. Also don't weld or tack on the surface. Great video education and very important if you want to be a good fabricator.
First time I saw this care of a important work space. Most of the shops I ever work in I wish the work table was not flat at all? If they could be round like a horizontal drum I think people would stop trying to constantly set junk and some unfinished projects that never ever ever get done. Am I the only one else out there that needs a water canteen and compass to find the end of a airline hose or extension cords!!
Very informative video brother thankU,
Regars,
Abhilash Chandavari,
India.
Can this be done over millscale? Do you have an alternative suggestion for removing millscale where grinding and sanding is time prohibitive due to the surface area size?
Muratic acid will remove the mill scale quickly, or you could soak towels in vinegar and leave it sit a day or two on the surface
Can you still use a sharpi or silver berol with that coating?
Nice table
Very nice video. Many thanks.
Thank you too
I wish I had a space 1/16 the size of your shop lol thanks for the tips!
Thanks for watching!
Is that a Pumpmaster 760??
I love the video, I'm about to build my first welding table next week and I was looking to prevent the rust. I currently use rainX wax on all my woodworking tools from table saw to lathes and mills. I probably will try out the rainx on the welding table also..but I just didn't know if it would create more hazardous fumes. Any how thanks for the video.
Awesome man, RainX makes good stuff. I use similar turtle wax spray 'n dry on my cars AND on some of my tool surfaces. Try out some paste wax sometime! Also, thanks for watching!
I just built a table, would you recommend stripping the mill scale off the top before applying wax?
Yeh, I think it would be a benefit. I wet blasted this top right after it was built and then I just do the maintenance that I depicted in this video and its been fine over the years.
Yes, the mill scale is non conductive, so most of it should be cleaned off. Maybe not a problem on stick welding, due to higher starting voltage, but i found it to be a problem with Mig /Mag welding. In fact i overheated a grinder (even a Makita!), while grinding with a coarse flap disc. The industral way to strip the scale is to use muriatic acid, then neutralize with baking soda/water, then grind again. This proces is of course best done outdoors, before you assemble the table (neither did i, that's why i burned the grinder).
Thanks for sharing
WD-40 is another option after grinding and polishing. You’ll have to apply it more often and unfortunately attracts dust and grinding dust. Good shit on taking the time to do something more thorough bruh🤙🏼
Nice Video thanks
What are those clamps that go through the holes in the table top.
DIY, Took a regular bar clamp, removed the stationary jaw and replaced with a piece of round bar
nice work 💪
5:00
That's not all water from the table, part of it is the exhaust gases of the torch contain water. First the surface is cold and a lot moisture condensates, then later when its hot it can't anymore.
I don't think WD-40 isn't alcohol based. Still, your point stands. It is not the product for this application. I'll try wax on my welding table. I've also used Fluid Film, which does leave a somewhat greasy layer.
5:01 I bet you that a substantial portion of the observed moisture is a by product of combustion condensing on to your cold table. Once the table is sufficiently warmed the water evaporates and no longer condenses.
Try to put a pan of cold soup on a gas stove and you will see water condensing in the outside if the pan. Pan is not weeping, water is from the fire.
How thick is your table top?
great tips . thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Ooooh! Shiny.
Good job!
you can unglaze a flapdisk some what, boil it in a pot with simple green, dish soap, bit of vinegar and some alcohol/naphta
cd rom boiling a fucking flap disk? That’s doing way too much
Thanks for sharing.
Is very good I like it
what would happen if you blued the table? I have a work in progress table that will have a blanchard ground top and I would like to protect it.
Im not sure how it would hold up to the abuse. Have you seen one done before?
no I was curious on how to keep it nice. Wax seeems like a good idea but I guess it boils away and stuff still sticks to the table? Maybe if the wax was soaked into a blued layer it would stop sticking to the table (but you would need to use a magnetic or other clamp for the ground).
Just trying to find the best economical solution.
those plates blanchard ground are NOT cheap
cold rolled too
The solution I Have in mind currently is to get a sacrificail top layer for the table thats like 1/4 inch or less for non precise work in the form of plates and for precise work to take a bunch of those firebricks, put little plastic slide-feet on them, rubber coat them (i made one coated in liquid rubber as a test with all layers covered but top) and arrange them around the work piece like a jigsaw puzzel so splatter falls on top of em
thanks for the video
thanks for watching
Wow I’m a weld table abuser. Think I need to start taking better care of mine
All I do is knock the spatter off. Been that way for yrs. No rust.
Nice video
new subscriber
cheers
Thanks Dave, welcome aboard!
Blacksmith here , blacksmiths dont use paste wax lol we make our own , its beeswax turpentine and linseed oil all melted together to a 5000 year old secret recipe ...honest :-) ..... i currently have around 30 lb of the stuff and i dont even smith atm , much better to make it yourself though as you can use it on steel or thin it down as wood polish or leather polish
Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it
Sorry but the water vapour is from heating. Steel dose not hold water. Otherwise boat would sink? Great house keeping tips 👌
Where can I find that wax
Its available at most home improvement/hardware stores. If you cant find it locally I do have an amazon link in the description.
I guess we have different ideas what “polish” means 😂 I don’t grind I use a 60 flap then go to a felt flap disc and a steel polish (Autosol for me) its a good protection and lasts longer than wax.
Ill have to look up a felt flap, never heard of that
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 you can use fine grit/metal polish with the felt flap and get it to shine like a mirror
That water is not evaporating out of your metal propane contains a lot of water if you have one of those propane fire pits and you stand close to it for a long. Of time you will fill your clothing get damp and then become wet this is just happening and how much faster process because the heat is hotter and the flame is closer to the table
there was a link posted in this comment section to another video that explained the process and why the water collects. It was a good video. Thanks for the info!
Cool thanks for sharing 😎👍
Great video! Much appreciated. Subscribed
Thanks!!
Great video but you'll find the water is coming mostly from your blow torch not the table, burning propane/butane produces water as a by-product
I use fluid film to treat all my bare metal. Spray it on a rag and wipe it on. It's lanolin based with no solvents. Water proof, non toxic smells awful.
Ive heard of that stuff. Someone told me its made from sheep/wool byproducts.
the smell of fluid film is memorable - not awful IMHO
Very informative video. I’m now a subscriber...show me!!!
My everlast welder table needs a good treatment.
Why do you constantly make comments about your Everlast welder?
How about a belt sander
would probably work fine, although the paper may tear if caught on any sharp slag??
You mentioned using safety gear but your grinder is missing it’s guard
Wax it or mineral oil it when you're done
Where's the clip of you making that table lol
Im building another table as we speak, but much heavier duty. Im filming the entire process. The best part is I am building it out of all reclaimed iron and have very little $$ in it so far. Stay tuned for a video!
Обработать поверхность стола силиконовым спреем и брызги металла не будут прилипать к поверхности
Yes, This is true. Just be sure not to mix any silicone spray with any parts you may want to paint later. Silicone is the enemy of surfaces that need paint
Да, это правда. Только не смешивайте силиконовый спрей с деталями, которые вы захотите покрасить позже. Кремний является врагом поверхностей, которые нуждаются в покраске.
Благодарность!
I wish we could find out who thumbs down our videos so we could ban them off of our channels
Find the best video on youtube and it will have down votes. They exist in every aspect of life and they always will. Thanks for stopping in
Hi i need know why you put gun in you shop i look people america keep gun its self.
BB gun, to keep the woodpeckers off the side of my building