Oh, I didn't think I was so old... as I dived with that kind of gears 50 years ago and still used the Fenzy "horse collar" some years ago. Just recently I moved to sidemount with new equipment.
Awesome content. You have combined my love of diving and history. I dove the J valve configuration in the 1980s as a new diver and grew to despise their unreliableness. Keep producing awesome vids Angel. I look forward to seeing the next one.
I have two steel 72's. One from 1972 with the tapered pipe fitting. The other one is from 4/1964. This one has a 1/2" straight thread with an o-ring. I got it on ebay for a great price with a a current visual inspection and hydro test. No one wanted it because the valve is extremely rare. Internally the valve uses the exact same parts as 3/4'' valves. Anyway, great information about the vinyl coatings and the corrosion outside and inside. I just used both of my steel 72's the other day at my local dive park. One more tidbit of information you posted a video about. I bought a 1/89 LUXFER Aluminum 80 off CraigsList for $25. It was hydro-tested 5 years later in 1994 and again in 97. I took it to my local dive shop for a hydro. I'll keep you posted on the results. Great content, keep the videos coming.
i still have one of the broxton ave 'rene' tanks. it's dated 7/53. but it's only rated the typical 2150psi. my USD double-hose reg has the even later warner ave address.
That’s awesome, love to see early dive gear. The History of Diving museum in the keys started from a someone’s private collection. It’s now a popular must visit location when in the Florida Park Keys.
Makes sense. Just was curious about the one you had, value wise, incase I were to ever come across a tank with their original address on it@@scubatechkeylargo
Thanks for the video. I have 2x ScubaPro MP72 that are 3000+ rated. Born in ‘88. Still trying to find out info on them. LDS always gives me strange looks when I drop off for fills. 😅
Glad you enjoyed the video. Your scuba tanks should be Faber brand, they also made 3180 + rated. These were the tanks that lead to the current 3442 psi. Thanks for watching.
40% is a large amount of corrosion, anything over 20% is considered a fail. I can't recommend to continue service on that cylinder. Thanks for the question.
If made in the 1990s it not a 72, in the 1990s steel tanks were HP 3500 psi tank. 72 tanks haven't been made since the the 1970s. Curious what you have...
Another good video - however coated steel tanks can have the cover removed and are perfectly good tanks (it does take some effort to remove the cover). Other internal liners can be tumbled and again come out just fine. I have several of these, all have passed hydro and even gotten a Plus rating (PST and Norris tanks). Many of these I got free because people hear these rumors of them being no good anymore. So I guess, keep saying they are no good, I can always use more tanks! 😁 Donate for a Dream
The effort in removing the external or internal coating is well beyond the value the cylinder. Once the coating is removed the bare tank is highly expose to corrosion since these tanks were not zinc coated for protection. Cylinders altered from the original manufactures design should be rejected. Testing altered tanks is not an accepted practice and exposes the tester to liability. Keep in mind cylinders are regulated by D.O.T not the hydro tester. Thanks for the comments and keep watching many more videos to come.
Yep. Paint stripper easily lifts the vinyl coating, and coat of good quality cold galvanizing protects it for the future. It takes me about 3 man-hours and $20 of consumables per tank. Hydros cost me $50 if needed. Commercially viable? Absolutely not. Personally worthwhile? Yes. I get a serviceable tank using consumables that I already own for $70 MAX. I can't buy ANY used tank in hydro for less than $100.
Here in Australia, generally you can get any tank inspected/hydro tested, if it no older than 1994. Let’s be real. Just buy a new tank, they’re not expensive. Interesting video
I agree, even a good used cylinder is often available, we replace our cell every couple of years but for some reason we try to keep 40 year old tanks alive.
Oh, I didn't think I was so old... as I dived with that kind of gears 50 years ago and still used the Fenzy "horse collar" some years ago.
Just recently I moved to sidemount with new equipment.
Side mount has gained a lot of popularity, I kinda like also.
Cool video. I have two of those military surplus tanks in my shop. 1943!!! Rated to 1800psi
Very cool, I'm looking out for a old oxygen surplus tank with the bushing still in place, just for my collection.
Awesome content. You have combined my love of diving and history. I dove the J valve configuration in the 1980s as a new diver and grew to despise their unreliableness. Keep producing awesome vids Angel. I look forward to seeing the next one.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank for watching.
I have two steel 72's. One from 1972 with the tapered pipe fitting.
The other one is from 4/1964. This one has a 1/2" straight thread with an o-ring. I got it on ebay for a great price with a a current visual inspection and hydro test. No one wanted it because the valve is extremely rare. Internally the valve uses the exact same parts as 3/4'' valves. Anyway, great information about the vinyl coatings and the corrosion outside and inside.
I just used both of my steel 72's the other day at my local dive park.
One more tidbit of information you posted a video about. I bought a 1/89 LUXFER Aluminum 80 off CraigsList for $25. It was hydro-tested 5 years later in 1994 and again in 97. I took it to my local dive shop for a hydro. I'll keep you posted on the results.
Great content, keep the videos coming.
Thanks for the info, keep me posted.
Very informative - thanks for sharing this info!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
i still have one of the broxton ave 'rene' tanks. it's dated 7/53. but it's only rated the typical 2150psi. my USD double-hose reg has the even later warner ave address.
That’s awesome, love to see early dive gear. The History of Diving museum in the keys started from a someone’s private collection. It’s now a popular must visit location when in the Florida Park Keys.
@@scubatechkeylargo i agree. it's a great place. we were there just 2 weeks ago.
Very cool. May I ask what the value of that very early US Divers tank would be today?
Value is up to the buyer, some folks love them, others never heard of them.
Makes sense. Just was curious about the one you had, value wise, incase I were to ever come across a tank with their original address on it@@scubatechkeylargo
Awesome content ❤
Thanks, I appreciate your comments.
Thanks for the video. I have 2x ScubaPro MP72 that are 3000+ rated. Born in ‘88. Still trying to find out info on them. LDS always gives me strange looks when I drop off for fills. 😅
Glad you enjoyed the video. Your scuba tanks should be Faber brand, they also made 3180 + rated. These were the tanks that lead to the current 3442 psi.
Thanks for watching.
I had tanks with steel bands and cloth straps. You had to loop the straps for the "quick release" pull.
Yeah I've seen those, would love to have for my collection.
Cool video, never knew any of this.
Glad you enjoyed! I have many more videos to come. Thanks for watching.
👍😎Thanks!
You bet!
Dacor 2250 after tumbling etc has clean rust pock marks approx 40 percent of tank safe to full fill or partial fill 1200-1600 psi?
40% is a large amount of corrosion, anything over 20% is considered a fail. I can't recommend to continue service on that cylinder. Thanks for the question.
Have a 72 from the early 90s get its first hydro stamp since being made in 1992
If made in the 1990s it not a 72, in the 1990s steel tanks were HP 3500 psi tank. 72 tanks haven't been made since the the 1970s. Curious what you have...
scubapro branded tank made by faber. Working pressure is 2400 but the shop gave me a plus rating on it.@@scubatechkeylargo
Are interested in my 9/65 steel 72?
At the moment I have plenty in my collections, but send me pics let me put eyes on it.
Great o2 bottles for deco. Negative buoyancy.
You're correct, I've used steel 72 as side mount deco bottles and they work out great.
I had a pair of old steel 104's that had the coating inside, was able to tumble them until it was removed, but cost me.
Another good video - however coated steel tanks can have the cover removed and are perfectly good tanks (it does take some effort to remove the cover). Other internal liners can be tumbled and again come out just fine. I have several of these, all have passed hydro and even gotten a Plus rating (PST and Norris tanks). Many of these I got free because people hear these rumors of them being no good anymore. So I guess, keep saying they are no good, I can always use more tanks! 😁
Donate for a Dream
The effort in removing the external or internal coating is well beyond the value the cylinder. Once the coating is removed the bare tank is highly expose to corrosion since these tanks were not zinc coated for protection. Cylinders altered from the original manufactures design should be rejected. Testing altered tanks is not an accepted practice and exposes the tester to liability. Keep in mind cylinders are regulated by D.O.T not the hydro tester. Thanks for the comments and keep watching many more videos to come.
That coating doesn’t change the design specs.
Yep. Paint stripper easily lifts the vinyl coating, and coat of good quality cold galvanizing protects it for the future. It takes me about 3 man-hours and $20 of consumables per tank. Hydros cost me $50 if needed.
Commercially viable? Absolutely not.
Personally worthwhile? Yes. I get a serviceable tank using consumables that I already own for $70 MAX. I can't buy ANY used tank in hydro for less than $100.
Here in Australia, generally you can get any tank inspected/hydro tested, if it no older than 1994. Let’s be real. Just buy a new tank, they’re not expensive.
Interesting video
I agree, even a good used cylinder is often available, we replace our cell every couple of years but for some reason we try to keep 40 year old tanks alive.
@@scubatechkeylargo your cell won't be useful at 40yrs (or even 10yrs). but a 70yr old tank can still be fully functional.