It seems there’s a lot of anxiety surrounding using power tools on guitars, perhaps I can allay your fears. 1) it’s an electric screwdriver, which spins much slower than a drill, making it much easier to control. 2) all factories use power tools to screw in guitar parts, do you really think they’re spending extra money on time to screw things in by hand? 3) all guitar techs I’ve worked with have used power tools, many even use full on drills to install screws and wind strings. 4) manual screwdrivers can do serious damage as well, *if you aren’t careful.* All you have to do is be careful, and use the right tool for the job, along with some common sense. I haven’t had a guitar scratched from a power tool in over 20 years of repairing instruments. If you are doubtful of your abilities, then by all means, use the method that works for you, but there is no reason to adhere to guitar dogma (and there’s a lot of it). It’s a piece of wood and some screws, and there are power tools designed expressly for the purpose of joining those elements, safely and efficiently.
Thanks for the tip about how to install the locking ring. I ran into the same problem you did; it wouldn't click into place no matter how hard I tried. Your tip about using needle nose pliers is the way to go.
Thank you for the video! I was a little stumped on getting that hard piece in the ridge and wanted to make sure I was doing it right. I'm finally all together and really appreciate you taking the time to make this!
I used LIFE BOUEY to lubricate my screw and my brand new Ibanez AS53 burst into flames and burnt to a crisp! I should have listened to your advice and saved my guitar!! Beside that I found the tutorial very helpful. Thank you for such a concise video.
I used to love and be obsessed with the Dunlop Straploks for years but after a brand-new set failed and drop my guitar straight to the ground I'm never buying them again. Just seeing them on the video makes my heart skip a beat. Yeah, I know it might have been a faulty unit in like 10,000 that left the factory, but I don't care. If I pay for a product that is intended to lock my strap in place and I trust my very expensive/favorite guitars with it, I expect it to do its job and do it well, so failing one time only is really all I need. Anyway, my cat-like reflexes were, fortunately, quick enough for me to catch the neck of my favorite guitar right on time and avoid the tragedy about 3 inches from the floor, but I feel for those who may not get so lucky. So, since that incident happened my advice for all my fellow guitarists has been to ditch those Dunlop abominations out of your beloved guitars, and instead switch to Schaller S-Locks because the mechanism on those is designed in such a way that even in the remote possibility that it fails to lock the strap (something already pretty much impossible to happen because it is spring-locked tightly and strongly) it will still secure your guitar in place because of the way the lock connects to the guitar from below. You would only notice that it "failed" if/when you took off the strap yourself, basically. So, what this means is that with this straplock, your guitar is literally always secure and protected from a disaster, I mean even gravity itself is on your side and helping. A disaster just can't happen even if you wanted to and so it's absolutely perfect. Sorry for the rant, but friends don't let friends buy Dunlop Straploks. Stay safe and Rock on \m/
Nick, thank you very much. The tip of using a soap bar to lubricate the screw makes ipossible the instalation on the neck joint of a ES 335 block 1963 reissue.
AnotherFishyMuffin sure did. Luckily the body of the bass (I still have it) is made of bubinga wood, it didn't even get dented, I bet the stage got more damage :)
@nick truskowski, I have heard of that but only with Schaller's. Never once with Dunlops, and certainly not over a short amount of time. Maybe they were knockoffs made with bad materials, or user error, or just bad luck, but I'm around a lot of musians and never once heard that. The biggest complaint is the Dunlops hold the strap far from the guitar, which they do, but that doesn't bother me. A student of mine just last week lost his Epi Les Paul due to a Shaller UNTHREADING AND FALLING OUT OF HIS STRAP... EXACTLY WHAT HAPPENED TO ME MANY YEARS AGO with a $2400 bass. They use threaded nuts to hold the piece on to the strap. If you have a thick leather strap, it's not going to be threaded on deeply, and it can work its way off, and they do. THIS IS A SCHALLER DESIGN FLAW. THREADED THINGS ON PARTS THAT CAN MOVE, CAN WORK THEIR WAY OFF. Ever have a strap button screw loosen? Or an input nut? Of course, everyone has. But strap button screws are long enough to catch before there's a problem, and a loose jack isn't going to make your guitar hit the ground. I am careful with my instruments, and used tools to tighten the Schaller's nut down, but I'm not fanatical about checking on every detail every gig, (especially a product supposedly designed to not allow your strap to fall off), and it worked its way off. If you can remember to tighten the nut down every gig, or you just like gambling, go for the Schallers. You're at risk, due to the design of the device. I have never had the bearings go bad in Dunlops, ever, and they're on every instrument I own. I have never lubricated or otherwise maintained them, never a single problem. And if they did start binding, I'd plunk down another $15 and get a new set.
thank you very much because i realized that i put the lock on the wrong side of the strap, i thought it was permanent. i was so scared. but thank alot.
You have to use the Dunlop supplied screws, so if the existing holes are too small, that's no problem, drill them out. If they are too big, first to make sure the existing holes are deep enough, if not, drill them out to accommodate the new screws. The classic trick is to crush a wooden pencil with some pliers, Cover the slivers in wood glue and pack them into the holes. I then drill the screws straight in while the glue is still wet, no pilot holes needed. Wood glue is stronger than wood, I have done this on several instruments and never once had a problem.
Sorry for the late reply. I would use the new screws. They will fit the strap buttons correctly, and they are tough in my experience, never had one bend or strip out, and I play a HEAVY bubinga bass. Who knows what the manufacturer's screws are made of, you can't put it past a manufacturer to cheap out on something like a screw.
I've never noticed noise from any brand of strap lock... are you installing them on an acoustic or something with a piezo? Shouldn't matter otherwise, and any little rattle would probably be negligible in a live setting regardless. If you tell me more about the noise you're experiencing I might be able to help further.
Skiantoss it can be, so if you find a lot of resistance before you've screwed the strap button all the way in, back it out and drill a deeper pilot hole.
Actually I already used the guitar to destroy my JCM900 amplifier. I read where vacuum tubes are prone to eventual failure, so I took them out. Afterward, the amp didn't work. What a POS.
Aaron Gall Sorry but I’m not sure myself. Any high quality wood screw should work, as long as it protrudes an inch or so into the wood, so 1 1/4” or 1 1/2” would do it. I’d go with stainless steel, not the cheapest zinc plated. One thing that won’t make your selection easy, is the cylinder that the screw fits into is pretty narrow, so you may have to grind down the screw head to fit inside it. I’d say a deck screw would be perfect, but I believe their heads are fluted and won’t fit flush inside against the metal strap button. If you’re not handy, you might be better off contacting the company to see if they would send you replacements (good luck), or buying a new set. Depends on your skill and the value of the instrument. Screws aren’t magical, but they will be under a good deal of stress in this case, so use good judgment.
Thanks for the video - been using Schaller security locks for years and got my new Jackson KVT with Dunlop straplocks preinstalled. Don't trust the cheap locking ring that much, to bee honest...the U-shaped counterpiece on the Schaller locks far more trustworty to me.
2:17 lubricate the screw threads with some SOAP???? Are you kiddingh? What kind of soap is that? a common bath soap or a special antirust soap ?? i dont get the why. If you need lubrificate screws should you use an oil or a special grease, dont knoe..but not a soap! (it will make the screw becoming a block of rust, suppose). However my spoken language knoledge is too little to let me understand, so i think it's a matter of wrong understanding
Yeah dude, soap. It works just fine used in this capacity, by many many people, many many times. Trust me. It won't rust, or do anything to the screw, other than allow it to screw into hard wood without the head snapping off. Grease or oil might work too, but its messier. Just use soap.
It's not a joke. Soap is a commonly used lubricant for wood screws. It works perfectly within the tolerances of the job, is much less messy than other lubricants, and something which everybody has easy and ready access to.
I use graphite. Just get a soft pencil, the centre (drawing bit) is graphite and just run it a few times around the thread. It works well. Graphite is a good lubricant for many situations.
@@NickWeissMusic Just did it and it fitted! Got one done then moved to the upper lock beside the neck, screwed it one too tight and the screw head broke... the dunlop metal is a lot stronger than the screws on the guitar. So now going to have to find a way to remove a screw that's stuck in my 335 or drill another hole, oh the joys
@@jammyd33 Lesson learned :) If the screw is exposed, you can cut a flathead slot in the top of it with a dremel and unscrew it. Or if it's buried in there, hopefully you can just yank the button off, or drill into the screw until you're able to pull the button off, a dremel with a grinding burr is useful here too. once the button is off the screw should be easy enough to get out with pliers. If the broken screw's buried in the wood, then you've got some bigger headaches, I've never had much luck with screw extractors, first I try to use a tiny dremel engraving burr to create a flathead slot, it's not particularly easy but it works.
@@NickWeissMusic Thanks for the advice, unfortunately the top of the screw head has snapped off and the screw is left in the guitar, only about 1/2mm below the surface of the body. I really don't know very much about tools, I may have to send some pictures for help, otherwise I'll take it to a local guitar tech and hope he has something that can work
@@jammyd33 That's bummer but it'll get sorted out. If you don't have a dremel or screw extractors, yes, this would be better left in the hands of a tech. I definitely encourage people to try their own repairs and adjustments, it's just wood and screws after all, but would never encourage working without the right tools for the job.
What I do applaud in this video instruction is to use soap or candle wax to lubricate the screw. But when it comes to tools on your guitar... NEVER EVER recommend power tools to screw things into the guitar! Even with the disclaimer about using a slow or not, the point is not to mitigate the risk but to eliminate the risk of damaging the guitar.
To each his own. Every full time repair tech I've ever worked with, and there have been many, uses power tools. And you can jab a guitar really good with a screwdriver too, probably worse. If you're careful with power tools, you don't have to force anything, in my mind that's even safer. I've never had an incident myself, but if you're worried, feel free to twist those screws ;)
blue dog lol, if you feel that strongly, then feel free not to use harmless power tools for their intended jobs. Again, it’s an electric screwdriver, not an impact driver or anything. Do you think folks in the factory that build these are twisting every screw in by hand? Do you think repair techs don’t use power tools? Do you think you can’t damage a guitar with a manual screwdriver? It’s a piece of wood and some screws. Had I damaged a guitar in my 2 decades of repair, I’d feel differently, but i haven’t. All you have to do is be careful, as you should using manual screwdrivers as well.
i didnt ,use any drills i just screded it in there cuz i onyl had acces to drill in my school and i had no time to wait, risky to do with an 1300 dollar guitar..
Just a word of caution when using Dunlops. I have them fitted to my PRS and one time failed to ensure that they had properly engaged. £2500 of guitar hit the deck before I could react. I am verrrrry careful now!
That sucks. I always check them out of habit, all it takes is a quick tug, easier to check than schallers. Hope you didn't cause any real damage, cosmetic things happen if you use your instrument. I have a bent tuning peg on my number one Godin guitar from a tumble off of a stand. like I always say, if you want a museum piece, leave it in a museum.
+Nick Weiss I certainly double check now Nick! Luckily it was all cosmetic damage which as you say, happens if you use the instrument. I don't know what I'd have done though if I'd bent a tuning peg! I don't like to see fine instruments, built for years of use being wrapped in cotton wool and stored away. They're meant to be played so play 'em!
Nope! Schaller's have a design flaw- threaded nuts on a moving part. If you have a thick leather strap, the nuts get very little purchase and can work their way loose, happened to me. Never again!
Michael Steven haha, Schaller must’ve been listening to the many complaints ;) They didn’t have a set screw 20 some years ago, besides, set screws loosen up all the time on moving parts. At any rate, if you like Schallers, enjoy using them, they failed me, and I have no reason to change back over after 20+ years of zero problems with the Dunlops.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
It seems there’s a lot of anxiety surrounding using power tools on guitars, perhaps I can allay your fears.
1) it’s an electric screwdriver, which spins much slower than a drill, making it much easier to control. 2) all factories use power tools to screw in guitar parts, do you really think they’re spending extra money on time to screw things in by hand? 3) all guitar techs I’ve worked with have used power tools, many even use full on drills to install screws and wind strings. 4) manual screwdrivers can do serious damage as well, *if you aren’t careful.*
All you have to do is be careful, and use the right tool for the job, along with some common sense. I haven’t had a guitar scratched from a power tool in over 20 years of repairing instruments. If you are doubtful of your abilities, then by all means, use the method that works for you, but there is no reason to adhere to guitar dogma (and there’s a lot of it). It’s a piece of wood and some screws, and there are power tools designed expressly for the purpose of joining those elements, safely and efficiently.
Thanks for the tip about how to install the locking ring. I ran into the same problem you did; it wouldn't click into place no matter how hard I tried. Your tip about using needle nose pliers is the way to go.
Much better video than others on RUclips. I'm happily installed now!
Thank you for the video! I was a little stumped on getting that hard piece in the ridge and wanted to make sure I was doing it right. I'm finally all together and really appreciate you taking the time to make this!
Shout out to this video. Woulda been trying to put the locking ring in for hours. You’re the real MVP
Hello!
Thank you for helping me figure out and finally install my Dunlop Straplocks.
Thank you!
Thanks, Nick! Couldn't be easier, gonna go put these babies on my Gibson LPJ right now! Appreciate your video.
I used LIFE BOUEY to lubricate my screw and my brand new Ibanez AS53 burst into flames and burnt to a crisp! I should have listened to your advice and saved my guitar!! Beside that I found the tutorial very helpful. Thank you for such a concise video.
Thanks for this. I've never tried Dunlop and realized I wasn't pushing it through the strap far enough...duh. Very helpful video.
I used to love and be obsessed with the Dunlop Straploks for years but after a brand-new set failed and drop my guitar straight to the ground I'm never buying them again. Just seeing them on the video makes my heart skip a beat. Yeah, I know it might have been a faulty unit in like 10,000 that left the factory, but I don't care. If I pay for a product that is intended to lock my strap in place and I trust my very expensive/favorite guitars with it, I expect it to do its job and do it well, so failing one time only is really all I need. Anyway, my cat-like reflexes were, fortunately, quick enough for me to catch the neck of my favorite guitar right on time and avoid the tragedy about 3 inches from the floor, but I feel for those who may not get so lucky. So, since that incident happened my advice for all my fellow guitarists has been to ditch those Dunlop abominations out of your beloved guitars, and instead switch to Schaller S-Locks because the mechanism on those is designed in such a way that even in the remote possibility that it fails to lock the strap (something already pretty much impossible to happen because it is spring-locked tightly and strongly) it will still secure your guitar in place because of the way the lock connects to the guitar from below. You would only notice that it "failed" if/when you took off the strap yourself, basically. So, what this means is that with this straplock, your guitar is literally always secure and protected from a disaster, I mean even gravity itself is on your side and helping. A disaster just can't happen even if you wanted to and so it's absolutely perfect. Sorry for the rant, but friends don't let friends buy Dunlop Straploks. Stay safe and Rock on \m/
Thanks Nick, You're good people my friend.
Excellent video for doing this and your tip worked perfect!
got my strap locks already put together (without a guitar strap ofc) so I needed disassemble them. That video helped. Thanks :)
These are great instructions. Thank you.
Clear instructions without unnecessary talk. Great!
Rado P unless you count the 12v screw driver... :)
Thanks for the needle nose plier tip- never would have thought of that.
Great little tutorial thanks! (especially the tip with the pliers and the locking ring) :D
I came here just for 4:06
Very helpful! Clear, good tips, and too the point. Thank you for posting.
Nick, thank you very much. The tip of using a soap bar to lubricate the screw makes ipossible the instalation on the neck joint of a ES 335 block 1963 reissue.
Thanks! I'm looking at buying these right now... This helped!
This was very helpful, thank you so much!
THANK YOU for the needle nose pliers trick!
Good video. Very to the point. Worked fine for my PRS
I needed this tutorial. Thanks!
Thanks, worked perfectly on my Fender P-Bass
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU, the retainer clip was killing me.
Thank you very much, a very straight forward explanation, keep it up.
Thanks for the video. It helped me a lot!
Thanks, Helped me out with installing mine on my Epiphone LP Special II.
NIce video, thanks for your help!! In the fault of an plier, just take the ring with two hands and press it against a table or something, will help!
Thank you so much! Very very helpful!!!
Thanks, wasnt sure if I should get these or the Schallers.
Thanks man, very helpful!
This was extremely helpful cheers !👊🤘🏻
4:00 You are a savior. Thank you.
Nice video, very helpfull. Thank You!
Very useful video!!!! thx a lot!
Great vid Nick! Thanks!
OMG, for years I removed these the hard way. A screwdriver and pliers. Two pairs of pliers. Good video.
You dropped the bass huh XD
AnotherFishyMuffin sure did. Luckily the body of the bass (I still have it) is made of bubinga wood, it didn't even get dented, I bet the stage got more damage :)
AnotherFishyMuffin DR DR DR DR DROP DA BASS!!!
thank you for your invaluable information good sir. i was at the point of pulling my hair to install those weird washer.
Thanks for the pliers tip!
thanks you so much! specially with those locking rings!
Dunlops are the best!!!
Very helpful - thanks very much!
@nick truskowski, I have heard of that but only with Schaller's. Never once with Dunlops, and certainly not over a short amount of time. Maybe they were knockoffs made with bad materials, or user error, or just bad luck, but I'm around a lot of musians and never once heard that. The biggest complaint is the Dunlops hold the strap far from the guitar, which they do, but that doesn't bother me. A student of mine just last week lost his Epi Les Paul due to a Shaller UNTHREADING AND FALLING OUT OF HIS STRAP... EXACTLY WHAT HAPPENED TO ME MANY YEARS AGO with a $2400 bass. They use threaded nuts to hold the piece on to the strap. If you have a thick leather strap, it's not going to be threaded on deeply, and it can work its way off, and they do. THIS IS A SCHALLER DESIGN FLAW. THREADED THINGS ON PARTS THAT CAN MOVE, CAN WORK THEIR WAY OFF. Ever have a strap button screw loosen? Or an input nut? Of course, everyone has. But strap button screws are long enough to catch before there's a problem, and a loose jack isn't going to make your guitar hit the ground. I am careful with my instruments, and used tools to tighten the Schaller's nut down, but I'm not fanatical about checking on every detail every gig, (especially a product supposedly designed to not allow your strap to fall off), and it worked its way off. If you can remember to tighten the nut down every gig, or you just like gambling, go for the Schallers. You're at risk, due to the design of the device. I have never had the bearings go bad in Dunlops, ever, and they're on every instrument I own. I have never lubricated or otherwise maintained them, never a single problem. And if they did start binding, I'd plunk down another $15 and get a new set.
2:19 - Dammit, I just spent $60 on cranberry boutique soap.
thank you very much because i realized that i put the lock on the wrong side of the strap, i thought it was permanent. i was so scared. but thank alot.
Thank you, perfetc teaching
What kind of neck pickup is on the guitar?
You saved my life! or something like this...
thanks for that!
wil
Thanks Nick!
I have a Gibson and the screw sizes that come with it are different lengths and slightly larger gauge than each other. Any ideas?
You have to use the Dunlop supplied screws, so if the existing holes are too small, that's no problem, drill them out. If they are too big, first to make sure the existing holes are deep enough, if not, drill them out to accommodate the new screws. The classic trick is to crush a wooden pencil with some pliers, Cover the slivers in wood glue and pack them into the holes. I then drill the screws straight in while the glue is still wet, no pilot holes needed. Wood glue is stronger than wood, I have done this on several instruments and never once had a problem.
Can i just use the stock screws from my guitar strap knob instead of drilling and stuff??
Sorry for the late reply. I would use the new screws. They will fit the strap buttons correctly, and they are tough in my experience, never had one bend or strip out, and I play a HEAVY bubinga bass. Who knows what the manufacturer's screws are made of, you can't put it past a manufacturer to cheap out on something like a screw.
Do they move in the socket and make noise like schaller ones ?
I've never noticed noise from any brand of strap lock... are you installing them on an acoustic or something with a piezo? Shouldn't matter otherwise, and any little rattle would probably be negligible in a live setting regardless. If you tell me more about the noise you're experiencing I might be able to help further.
It's just the rattling noise when you pick the bass and move the strap.
But it's not relevent anymore when standing because they can't move anymore.
yes, beyond that, properly working magnetic pickups wouldn't pick that sound up anyway, only piezo's would.
Hi! The Dunlop screw is longer than the original guitar screw?
Skiantoss it can be, so if you find a lot of resistance before you've screwed the strap button all the way in, back it out and drill a deeper pilot hole.
Man, I sure wish I'd watched this before I used Irish Spring on my screw threads. Damn it.
Marc Johnson live and learn. Burn your guitar and try again :)
Actually I already used the guitar to destroy my JCM900 amplifier. I read where vacuum tubes are prone to eventual failure, so I took them out. Afterward, the amp didn't work. What a POS.
Thank You!
Thanks dude!
4:06 saved my life.
What size are the screws given in the strap lock box. I lost them and need to replace them? If anyone knows off hand I’d greatly appreciate it
Aaron Gall Sorry but I’m not sure myself. Any high quality wood screw should work, as long as it protrudes an inch or so into the wood, so 1 1/4” or 1 1/2” would do it. I’d go with stainless steel, not the cheapest zinc plated. One thing that won’t make your selection easy, is the cylinder that the screw fits into is pretty narrow, so you may have to grind down the screw head to fit inside it. I’d say a deck screw would be perfect, but I believe their heads are fluted and won’t fit flush inside against the metal strap button. If you’re not handy, you might be better off contacting the company to see if they would send you replacements (good luck), or buying a new set. Depends on your skill and the value of the instrument. Screws aren’t magical, but they will be under a good deal of stress in this case, so use good judgment.
что за обмылок он трет перед закручиванием, за каким оно надо?
Subbed when you said once at a gig
Thank you kindly sir
thank you.
very helpful
Thanks for the video - been using Schaller security locks for years and got my new Jackson KVT with Dunlop straplocks preinstalled. Don't trust the cheap locking ring that much, to bee honest...the U-shaped counterpiece on the Schaller locks far more trustworty to me.
Where is the surf album that goes with that great guitar? Steve
Awesome. thanks!
Thanks!
thanks!
thanks, man
I came here to find out how to snap the ring into place, thanks
2:17 lubricate the screw threads with some SOAP????
Are you kiddingh? What kind of soap is that? a common bath soap or a special antirust soap ?? i dont get the why. If you need lubrificate screws should you use an oil or a special grease, dont knoe..but not a soap! (it will make the screw becoming a block of rust, suppose). However my spoken language knoledge is too little to let me understand, so i think it's a matter of wrong understanding
Yeah dude, soap. It works just fine used in this capacity, by many many people, many many times. Trust me. It won't rust, or do anything to the screw, other than allow it to screw into hard wood without the head snapping off. Grease or oil might work too, but its messier. Just use soap.
It's not a joke. Soap is a commonly used lubricant for wood screws.
It works perfectly within the tolerances of the job, is much less messy than other lubricants, and something which everybody has easy and ready access to.
i didnt know. thanx, i trust you all
I use graphite. Just get a soft pencil, the centre (drawing bit) is graphite and just run it a few times around the thread. It works well. Graphite is a good lubricant for many situations.
Wax is another easy, safe, non messy, alternative.
Anyone just used the screw that come on the guitar?
James Cuddy If it fits in the Dunlop strap button, sure, but generally the heads on the existing screws are too wide.
@@NickWeissMusic Just did it and it fitted! Got one done then moved to the upper lock beside the neck, screwed it one too tight and the screw head broke... the dunlop metal is a lot stronger than the screws on the guitar. So now going to have to find a way to remove a screw that's stuck in my 335 or drill another hole, oh the joys
@@jammyd33 Lesson learned :) If the screw is exposed, you can cut a flathead slot in the top of it with a dremel and unscrew it. Or if it's buried in there, hopefully you can just yank the button off, or drill into the screw until you're able to pull the button off, a dremel with a grinding burr is useful here too. once the button is off the screw should be easy enough to get out with pliers. If the broken screw's buried in the wood, then you've got some bigger headaches, I've never had much luck with screw extractors, first I try to use a tiny dremel engraving burr to create a flathead slot, it's not particularly easy but it works.
@@NickWeissMusic Thanks for the advice, unfortunately the top of the screw head has snapped off and the screw is left in the guitar, only about 1/2mm below the surface of the body. I really don't know very much about tools, I may have to send some pictures for help, otherwise I'll take it to a local guitar tech and hope he has something that can work
@@jammyd33 That's bummer but it'll get sorted out. If you don't have a dremel or screw extractors, yes, this would be better left in the hands of a tech. I definitely encourage people to try their own repairs and adjustments, it's just wood and screws after all, but would never encourage working without the right tools for the job.
how to unlock
Mustard Chen push the button with one finger, and pull the entire strap off with your other fingers
Is this jack black 😆
What I do applaud in this video instruction is to use soap or candle wax to lubricate the screw.
But when it comes to tools on your guitar... NEVER EVER recommend power tools to screw things into the guitar! Even with the disclaimer about using a slow or not, the point is not to mitigate the risk but to eliminate the risk of damaging the guitar.
To each his own. Every full time repair tech I've ever worked with, and there have been many, uses power tools. And you can jab a guitar really good with a screwdriver too, probably worse. If you're careful with power tools, you don't have to force anything, in my mind that's even safer. I've never had an incident myself, but if you're worried, feel free to twist those screws ;)
I've heard horror stories of the buttons wearing out over a short time and sliding right out and destroying the users instrument.
but i dont want to screw in my guitars
Fredrik Svärd any guitar shop should be able to install them easily
You never should use electric drill to put those screws in with wrong you're dead wrong never
blue dog lol, if you feel that strongly, then feel free not to use harmless power tools for their intended jobs. Again, it’s an electric screwdriver, not an impact driver or anything. Do you think folks in the factory that build these are twisting every screw in by hand? Do you think repair techs don’t use power tools? Do you think you can’t damage a guitar with a manual screwdriver? It’s a piece of wood and some screws. Had I damaged a guitar in my 2 decades of repair, I’d feel differently, but i haven’t. All you have to do is be careful, as you should using manual screwdrivers as well.
i didnt ,use any drills i just screded it in there cuz i onyl had acces to drill in my school and i had no time to wait, risky to do with an 1300 dollar guitar..
Always use as many words as possible to say what needs to be said. That's self explanatory.
Just a word of caution when using Dunlops. I have them fitted to my PRS and one time failed to ensure that they had properly engaged. £2500 of guitar hit the deck before I could react. I am verrrrry careful now!
That sucks. I always check them out of habit, all it takes is a quick tug, easier to check than schallers. Hope you didn't cause any real damage, cosmetic things happen if you use your instrument. I have a bent tuning peg on my number one Godin guitar from a tumble off of a stand. like I always say, if you want a museum piece, leave it in a museum.
+Nick Weiss I certainly double check now Nick! Luckily it was all cosmetic damage which as you say, happens if you use the instrument. I don't know what I'd have done though if I'd bent a tuning peg! I don't like to see fine instruments, built for years of use being wrapped in cotton wool and stored away. They're meant to be played so play 'em!
The "complete instructions" that came in the package were not helpful. Thanks!
This guys jokes are very lame. It’s almost like he’s being passive aggressive and talking down. Idk
The word you’re looking for is “condescending.” Bahahaha! Lighten up. Happy new year! Now THAT’s passive aggressive ;)
terribly funny goodbye
Awful strap locks, really..Get Schallers and thank me later.
Nope! Schaller's have a design flaw- threaded nuts on a moving part. If you have a thick leather strap, the nuts get very little purchase and can work their way loose, happened to me. Never again!
Dude, there's a set screw on the nut to lock it in place.
Michael Steven haha, Schaller must’ve been listening to the many complaints ;) They didn’t have a set screw 20 some years ago, besides, set screws loosen up all the time on moving parts. At any rate, if you like Schallers, enjoy using them, they failed me, and I have no reason to change back over after 20+ years of zero problems with the Dunlops.
Thanks, very helpful!