Mitsubishi Montero Head Gasket Repair Part 4: Left Exhaust Manifold and Cylinder Head Removal
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- Опубликовано: 11 дек 2024
- #automotive #headbolts #engineoverhaul
Parts 1 through 13 of this repair series take place over a six month period and we were without the use of our vehicle for about 8 months. As I took her apart I would replace things as needed and it took a while to get all the parts and tools I needed. I entered this project as a beginner mechanic and made some mistakes but I was able to fix them and learn from them. This was a fun project and I'm so happy with the results and I'm glad I can share my experience with others. As part of this project I created a list of tools and parts that are needed or just very convenient for this type of work (see below).
Vehicle: 2001 Mitsubishi Montero 3.5L V6 6G74 SOHC
Known Issues: P0335 Crankshaft postition sensor circuit, P0300 Random multiple misfire, P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire, P0161 O2 sensor heater circuit bank 2 sensor 2, Valve cover oil leaks
Tools and Parts List
Tools
OBD-II scan tool:
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10-150 ft-lb torque wrench:
amzn.to/2Ow8vpR
20-200 in-lb torque wrench:
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51 piece mechanics tool set:
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Deep socket set metric:
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18" breaker bar:
amzn.to/3vq3X56
8" adjustable wrench:
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27 mm crowfoot wrench for EGR pipe nut:
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Metric crowfoot wrench set:
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Large metric wrench set:
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Socket extension, universal joint, and adapter kit:
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⅜ drive to ½ drive socket adapter:
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Drill hex drive to socket drive adapter kit:
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21 piece M42 Cobalt drill bit set:
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1 lb hammer:
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Rubber mallet:
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Needle nose pliers:
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Standard pliers:
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Timing belt tensioner pulley tensioning tool:
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Valve seal removal and installation tool kit:
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Universal camshaft and crankshaft holding tool:
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Overhead valve spring compressor tool:
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Aluminum straight edge:
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Feeler gauges:
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Stainless steel vernier calipers:
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Thread gauge:
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Spark plug gapper tool:
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Rare earth magnets:
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Wire brush automotive cleaning kit:
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Carburetor cleaner:
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WD-40:
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Brake cleaner:
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Blue painters tape:
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Damaged screw extractor kit:
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Starret ⅛" center punch:
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Metric helicoil thread repair kit:
amzn.to/30YsgsT
M8 X 1.25 Big-Sert thread repair kit:
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Metric thread tapping kit:
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Thread tap socket set:
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Heavy duty bench vise:
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3.5 ton hydraulic jack:
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3 ton jack stands:
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Locktite red and blue:
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JB weld:
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Parts
Head gasket repair kit (includes all gaskets, O-rings, and valve stem seals) for Mitsubishi 6G74 3.5L V6 SOHC:
amzn.to/3GbgrTv
Head bolts for Mitsubishi 6G74 3.5L V6 SOHC:
amzn.to/2OmE1Xr
Timing belt and water pump replacement kit for Mitsubishi 6G74 3.5L V6 SOHC:
amzn.to/3vz4eCS
Valve lash adjusters/lifters for Mitsubishi 6G74 3.5L V6 SOHC:
amzn.to/2OTKQQ9
Spark plug wires for Mitsubishi 6G74 3.5L V6 SOHC:
amzn.to/3rLXHlO
Spark plugs for Mitsubishi 6G74 3.5L V6 SOHC:
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Engine air filter for Mitsubishi 6G74 3.5L V6 SOHC:
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Optima group 35 car battery:
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5W-30 High mileage motor oil:
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Engine oil filter:
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Antifreeze phosphate free:
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I’m watching this series because I have never done a Mitsubishi 3.5 head gasket. I am thinking of purchasing one to flip, p that has the head gasket blown. Bless you and others on RUclips for taking the guess work out of a job.
You're welcome. It's definitely doable by one to two people. The hardest part for me was removing the crank bolt which I didn't show because I had to get my neighbor's help. I held the pulley in place while he used a 4 foot breaker bar extension to break the bolt loose. Once it broke loose though I could get it on and off again by myself.
Nice. Helped me get further with my own vehicle. Took off the driver's heat shield today- used the same crescent wrench to get the EGR tube off. Yup, it's a tight space. I put an extension bar through the hole in the end of the wrench and used it like a lever (pryed in a line/direction tangential to the intended rotation of the wrench, amplifying my mechanical force with a longer lever) to turn the crescent wrench. Only had to get it to budge, and it turned the rest of the way by hand. I would have pitched a fit trying to get the exhaust manifold off w/o getting the heat shield out of the way first. Way to stick with it though, this stuff can get super frustrating!
That sounds like a good idea. I was at a loss when I came to that part of it. I discovered that I could remove the heat shield bolts and have enough play to maneuver it so that I could just barely fit my 14 mm wrench between the gaps to get at the manifold nuts. Then for the ones on the bottom side I got under the car and reached up through the gaps from underneath. I was very pleased to get past that obstacle, though it wouldn't be the last. Lol.
8:22 had me cracking up. Glad to see I'm not alone!
Haha yeah I wanted to leave that in because I was sure someone out there could relate to the struggle of holding onto a slippery, polished wrench with oily, greasy hands that are contorted in all sorts of ways to fit into the tight workspaces. Keep fighting the good fight. Lol.
8.26 I seriously feel the pain u just went through.😂
It was quite painful. Not easy to forget that one.
@Coloradical Couple hey mate, I'm doing the same thing on a 2002 pajero (I'm in Australia)
Is there anything that's you would have done differently now 1 year on?
Hows it running? Any problems, issues related to the headgasket or anything that was changed out?
Hello and good luck on your endeavor. If I could say I would have done anything different it would be to have changed the crankshaft pulley bolt to the upgraded one and also just did a little more double checking. I could have avoided a few costly mistakes just by paying more attention during disassembly and verifying I had done something correctly before moving on. After a year of running I have no complaints though. She runs well and no leaks or trouble codes.
@Coloradical Couple if u don't mind could u give me a little more info what u mean by pay more attention on disassembly?
What was the costly mistakes, we are all watching these videos because we are either doing or about to do a headgasket on this engine.
So anything helpfull that u can think of 12 months+ on would be really good info😊
Also thank u for documenting this really well, most videos I find are either not in english or shot on a Motorola flip phone.
@Coloradical Couple what significants is the crank bolt? Did u snap it?
If you have a head gasket problem then changing the thermostat is a must. If it got hot you may as well overhaul the engine. It may run good for a while then the rings lose their temper , and about ten thousand miles later it will smoke.
I didn't have a head gasket problem. I had an oil leak and cylinder 3 misfire problem and took the heads off to diagnose it and check the health of my engine.
Greetings!
What is the full sequence to loosen the head bolts???
My bad I thought I explained it in the video. The first two bolts loosened are at the the front of the engine starting with the one on the inside of the V then moving to the outside one. The next two are at the very back of the engine starting with the outside one then the inside one. Next is the two behind the first ones from the front starting with the inside one. Last are the only two left starting from the outside. Remember to only go a quarter turn on each bolt until they are loose enough to remove by hand. Installation is the reverse of this sequence.
Thank you very much!!
Love the magnet in the glove idea. How Does the failure of the water pump (which I assume is the cause of the repair) blow out the gaskets? Is it the temperature of the water coolant rising, or the actually heat of the metals no longer being cooled? Thx
Thanks. My water pump was not faulty I just changed it because a new one came with my timing belt replacement kit. Yes, I could see a bad pump causing possible gasket failures if the engine overheated.
@@ColoradicalMike why then did you do the repair? What caused it?
The car had a cylinder 3 misfire, a faulty crankshaft position sensor, leaking valve covers and valve seals, and some bad lash adjusters. It also had an old timing belt which I changed for peace of mind.
@@ColoradicalMike u did mention those issues