My brother and I just set up a 7000TL version. First car lifted was a 70 Bonneville. No issues at all lifting a 4500 pound 20 foot long Detroit classic.
For those older garage mechanics amongst us, the QJ makes winter/summer wheel changes and brake work so much easier. It’s not always about time. Great video.
That's why I bought 'em - I can't wait to set them up and try them out. For our daily driver and the twice-yearly tire change, oil changes and brake inspection, and for out vintage VW Beetle, lots of room for the oil and brakes and access for the yearly tune up too!
I just turned 64 years old and still maintain all of my cars myself. I am getting a quick jack for sure. Thank you for a great video. You helped me make up my mind.
I am far younger but with the cost of everything today doing it yourself is far worth it. Plus it is just a great skill to have. I will definitely picking these up.
For added security i like to add a pair of ramps under the wheels at the end I'm working. They're placed under the wheels but not touching. I'm fairly confident in the QJ but you can always add to it.
I do also, and if I remove my wheels I put them under the frame to limit how far down the car can drop. My fittings at the pump began leaking the third month I started using mine. I ordered new ones and one failed almost immediately. I now have spares.
@@layla471 The fluid stays in the hoses, and if you get any dirt in the fittings, they will leak. My pump fittings have been replaced due to leaking and dumping fluid, once, so far. I work on my vehicles outside, so it is a dusty environment, I am careful to wipe the fittings, and clean out the caps prior to storing them. I ordered a second set of pump fittings for when they leak, not if they leak. I probably will attach the hoses directly to the pump, eventually.
I purchased the same model about two years ago on sale at Costco for about $980. They are in use all the time with a variety of vehicles. We love them!!
@@reggiemhc Depends on the size of the transmission bell housing. 22 inches clearance might not be enough for some trannys ... unless the bell housing is removable.
What I did to keep the bottom of my quick jack from scraping is to got felt pads and strips and put them at various location on the bottom. It makes the jack slide easier, and keep the bottom from getting scratched. I have had mine for several years and it seems to work fine. Hope this helps.
I have this quick jack myself. It's definitely heavy to move around the garage. Always always read the instructions fully even for the most common sense stuff. Likely wise be careful and practice safety. If anyone has questions about this I'm happy to help.
I've had the 7500 version for 4 years now and love it. I would prefer a full size lift, but only have 8 ft ceilings, with a garage door opener to boot. I did have a problem, early on, when one lift went down slower than the other. After a call to tech support, they were both balanced out, and I've never had a problem since.
Don’t worry about the safety bar, it was engineered by true engineers. In order for that bar to move out of lock position the platform need to be raised. This is extremely improbable with the weight of even the lightest vehicle on there. There is no getting around the physics. Bump it all you want with a sledge, it’s not gonna budge. I would estimate that in order to hit it hard enough, and raise the platform and car enough, it would actually bend the safety bar first before lifting it high enough.
I bought these to build a SpecE46 racecar in my garage and they are fantastic. Obviously a full lift would have been ideal but my home garage doesn't have the ceiling height to go much higher. These give you access to pretty much every part of the car you need access to.
@@gg6k That's a good question. The answer is yes, by supporting the engine via a hoist so I could remove the motor mounts, I could then lower the engine another several inches to create the clearance to get the transmission out, but honestly, I find it easier to just remove the entire front end and take the engine and transmission out together, then separate them. The difficulty isn't taking it out, it's putting it back in the car and bolting it up, so just easier to put them back in as one unit.
Finally someone discussed the actual time it takes to use day in and day out and advises on actual heights with the pads! THANK YOU. so many people were talking about great it is without actually explaining how long it takes to set up. My car is low and going to get lowered so I'd have to use ramps or jacks to even get the quickjack in place so it's likely not for me. outstanding review!
Do 4 sets of 2-2x6 or 8 boards stacked on each other and screwed together. Cut angle on one side. And drive up on them, then slide them under the car. Had to do that to get a stock 2016 mustang on a lift
If the car is too low to slide the QJs under the car cut some short, maybe 6", pieces of 2x4 and place those in front of the wheels and drive onto them. It'll lift the car enough for you to slide the QJs under it.
Have 2 Corvettes, 2016 & 2020 and a 2017 ZL1 Camaro. All are Low Profile cars and I bought bthe 7000 model and they lift with no problems. Great Video. Got mine through Costco in the bundle package with Taxes $1700.
I've had mine for a couple of years now. I've used it pretty much without any bad incidents - except once. Follow the instructions carefully! Bleed the system regularly! Air in the lines will cause a severe problem when lowering it with a car on it! I still use jack stands under the care for added safety! Also, it's really heavy to move around!
I have the 3500 lb model for my 64 Corvette and it is a great addition for DIY chores. I leave mine hooked up all of the time via the front of the car and push the two jacks together under the car. I can drive my car in and out without any interference and never have to fool with the hoses. They are kind of heavy to move around so I added four ball rollers to each side and now they move with the touch of one finger. I bought mine at a surplus outlet for $1,000. I also use them to support my car since I do not drive it much during the winter and it keeps the tires from getting flat spots. At $280 a tire that is a big saving. I've had mine for a year with zero problems and I always use jack stands anytime I am under the car.
You dont have problem to let the qj up in the air all winter, i ask sometime i start a job who take 1 month because of late part and need the car jacked for this time , so if is safe for a winter is safe for one month !
If you don't have enough clearance to get them under the car you can also drive the car onto pieces of 2x12 to get another 1.5 inches. Apply some adhesive sandpaper to the bottom if they scoot forward when you try to drive up onto them.
Harbor freight sells a $239 floor jack that lifts 24 inches and with a puck I can get about 26 inches. Buy two, one for each side with jack stands, I can lift the front to get similar effect. I like using the two floor jacks on the edges with the additional jack stands closer in the middle as extra safety. I lower the floor jacks slightly so the weight is distributed among 2 floor jacks and 2 jack stands. I feel safe with 4 supports and setup and take down time is shorter.
With tire rotation running $50 or more, doing just that with QJ would pay for them in short order....esp if you have multiple vehicles.....and if you have 5 granddaughters. A good impact wrench helps too!
10:20: That's not really a concern. First of all, with the full weight of that car on it you're not moving that lock. Second of all, it's already a redundancy - in order for it to come down there would need to be a leak in the hydraulic ram (somewhere for the fluid to go). Whether they're plugged into the pump and the control valves are all shut or they're unplugged from the pump they're a sealed system. So the only way they could come down if you cut the lock or similar is if the hydraulic ram already had a major leak. So as it sits the locks are just a fail over for the hydraulics or vice versa, depending on where you put the load. So even if you could kick that lock out it's not going anywhere. They're great jacks, I love mine, but they're kinda a slog to set up b/c they're so heavy to situate and the jack points don't always align well with the points on the car. Once they're situated though.... Good amount of height, done transmissions, differentials, exhaust, etc., rock solid stable, and I've left them out in my driveway with a car on them for like 2 months before (just brought the pump inside the garage) and no issues, great jack, my only complaint is the set-up effort.
Strongly considering getting this for the ease and speed of getting a car ready to be worked on at home but YEAH 100% would use stands on all 4 corners even if it had a better locking mechanism.
Glad you did this video! Just ordered mine now. I was worried about the size for my e39 525iT and then my e30, but your demo answered that question. Thanks for the video!!
@@TheBimmerBarn I have a range of sizes from the short e30 up to e39 and a few in between. I’ll save the $$ and just get the standard one now I know it’ll work on all of them. Thx!!
Bought mine for my home garage. Gearhead here Have many projects. Also have a 4 post and just got a mid-rise moveable 2post. This quick jack is fantastic. Slow yes but faster & SAFER than floor jacks, jack stands. When the race car is done I’ll be able to take the q jack to the track if needed. Love it.
If your car has front and rear central lift points like an e90 for example, I feel like using ramps and jack stands takes the same time, but at a fraction of the cost and material.
@10:40.. the hydraulic fluid in the cylinder does not disapeer once the ramp is up. The locks are a secondary. No need for extra complications. A pin would just be a point to really mess something up. Forget it and the vehicle lifts or goes down crooked.
My go to is still my jack and stands. These are a pain to set up, really heavy, a lot of side to side to make sure it's on the right spot. Only time I use them is when I need a lot of height for a long time which makes the difficult lengthy set up worth it. These are better suited for people with bigger garage/workspace where you can have your hydraulic lines set up permanently and not have to lift the quickjacks out of the way every time.
68 years old. Have had mine for 2 or 3 years. Bought the shorter length 5000 # unit. Works on my 2003 BMW Z4 and 2007 Honda Accord. The BMW has jack pads, 2 on each side. They work great with the QJ. Not so well with floor jack. There is no center jacking point in the front and the front bumper is too low for a low profile jack. The Honda has weld seams so I got the rubber blocks with slots for that. Don't stack the rubber blocks. They will slide off the side causing the car to drop onto steel frame. Ask how I know. If you need more height use wood blocks to gain some height under rubber blocks. Always let the car rest at the stopping points. The hydraulics will bleed out unevenly if you stop in between.
0:13 Chris, if you are using these daily, time to sell the BMW and get a Porsche 911. Nothing like a lift; I have a MaxJax. OK, now that I have seen the whole video, it is extremely well done and covers all the details. I wish more YT videos were this good. I might just add one of these if the price is right. Its the kind of lift I could use for doing brake bleeds when I need to take all four wheels off.
Well done video. My only issue is the safety bar concern. Even if you knocked the bar out, you'd still have ram pressure holding the lift in place. Not saying it isn't possible for your lift to collapse but there's a whole bunch of stuff that would have to line up for that to happen. I've had my QJ for a couple of years and have no worries about it failing in that manner. All in all, your video was very comprehensive (far better than the one I did) and I'll refer folks to yours if they ask about my QJ's.😎
When I get mine QuickJack I will make platforms at each corners for the floor jacks to reach the bottom of the vehicle structure. You could get underneath a thousand times but all you need is one major accident. Murphy's Law will appear out of nowhere and unexpected.
@kimchee94112 you could just use jack stands for a safety or even build wood cribbing to put under the tires. The reality is once you back the jacks down to the lock bar those bars hold all the weight.
Bought some last year they are fantastic. Wish I had them 20 years ago. I find it best to leave on the floor under car pushed together. They are quite heavy to drag around.
I work outside mostly, and the fittings need to be wiped down before you put the caps on, which harden with age. If you get any dirt in the fittings they will leak and damage the O-rings causing a messy clean up on your driveway or garage floor. I ordered spares, not cheap. The QJ are great for my weekly use, and makes it safer than just jack stands and the limited height of the common jacks. They take too much time for one wheel work, but for any long term undercarriage tasks, I definitely use mine.
I store my dodge challenger rt on my quickjacks for the winter in my garage, I have the largest ones so I can use them also on my ram pickup truck. I think that they are very safe and trust them over floor Jack's, great reliable product!
Great video man. I have the 7000 pound quick jacks. I bought them so long ago that I was on the waiting list for over 12 months before they shipped. You made all great points in your vid. I would only add that these jacks are not for amateurs. You should have a lot of common sense and safety in mind for using these in any other environment than flat cement. That being said, I’ve used mine from vegas to Toronto in all kinds of weather, all kinds of cars. They are worth every penny. Only recently had to disassemble the valve body on the pump and clean the O rings. Under certain conditions, you should double and triple check the automatic leveling as you lift the car. Use common sense and make sure the car is set solid. I have the jacks under my 67 barracuda right now on gravel. Welding up a new exhaust system.
I got the 6000ELX, my jack points on my 5 series were kinda out there. Having done my brakes, wheel bearings, transmission fluid, oil and guibo joints, these things have paid for themselves and then some. And they will continue to save money on labor costs. They say BMWs will bankrupt you after warranty ends, but if you learn to do it yourself, it's not bad at all.
I'm late to the party here, old video I just found, but one thing not mentioned in the video that is worth thinking about is that the QuickJack doesn't allow you access from the side. This is obvious of course just from looking at them, but it is one of those things you don't think about till you're under the car wishing you could get in from the side for some reason. Otherwise they are great, especially for brake work, tire rotations, oil changes and similar. Especially handy for smaller and lower sports cars. They will fit under pretty much anything that is street legal. I don't like them for my truck or my jeep, and still jack those manually.
I have a set I tend to use my actual jack more just for time setting up. But I do love them. If I am doing all 4 wheel break job or something where I need the entire car up like an exhaust it's soooo nice.
When I had my Corvette (2002 Z06) I had a set of these. I kept them in the garage such that I drove over them leaving the sides clear for walking and whatnot. It wasn't too difficult to slide them out to the in use position. I finally had to sell my Corvette due to failing health. Made it difficult to get in and out of the car. (I'm now 74).
Losing hydraulics will kill you just as fast as that latch kicking out. This is basically the same as a hydraulic lift jack which you use in order to get your stands under so I would definitely put jack stands as a back up as you did. Nicely Done,thanks.
I wanted one for so long and finally ended up getting one and instantly regretted it which just about ended in disaster. It had a bad hydraulic cylinder right out of the box, after some testing and a few hours with phone support they sent out a replacement cylinder which was also faulty. The tech support person didn't seem surprised at all but they finally got another cylinder sent out which didn't immediately fail. Hooray. It was at this point that I should have returned it to the store. So about 21 days after I bought it I finally got to run it up and down a couple times unloaded as per phone support's instructions. Then I loaded it with my snow blower and some other ballast, seemed ok. A little slow compared to youtube videos but it worked so then I tried lifting my car and the car just about ended up on it's roof, one of the cylinders failed about halfway up while lifting and started dropping fast. I got on the down button and lowered it fast enough that it only fell a few inches but my heart rate was higher than Willie Nelson for a few hours. The youtubers seem to love this poorly made junk but if you decide to plunk down your hard earned cash to get one please for the love of god, don't stand near it when lifting and be VERY attentive that everything is moving at the same speed.
My wife bought me a set for Christmas, I returned them after I tried them, They were a pain in the ass, it was quicker to use a Jack. They were heavy, and just took to long for my needs to move them into position.
Hello. Old school stuff that when you take the tires off when servicing the brakes, put the tires under the frame so if something happens..the car can only fall as far as the clearance of the tires Safe Safe... But great video that will help me decide...
My 2K Vette needed a rear main seal leak fix, shop wanted a ton of money. Picked a 7000TL which is way more then the Vette needs however my Jeep does push the scales at 4500lbs. Having the Vette 27" in the air makes working under it almost enjoyable...almost.
@@GregSr I did. And now that I have done it in hindsight I would have gladly paid $1700 to have it done. Does your local garage know the entire drivetrain has to come out along with the entire rear subframe? It is a MAJOR pain in the ass.
Great video If your car is too low to slide the QJ under - don’t waste your time using a floor jack to raise the car. (If your car is THAT low a floor jack won’t fit under your car either.) Cut some 2x8 or 2x10 boards about 18” long and drive the car up onto these. Presto! You can now slide the QJ under your car. Comparing the time to use the QJ vs a floor jack and jack stands….. Try raising your car 17” with a floor jack and jack stands. You’ll be lucky to get it raised 17” and supported securely in 30 minutes - or more.
30 minutes? What?? Depends on the car somewhat, but it's usually not that bad ... 10 to 15 minutes using center jack points (front, back, front, back) ... assuming you are working quickly and not taking beer breaks.
Came to type the same thing. I have 2x12's 20" long. Leftover from my RX7 racing days. I now have 2 BMW's (E30 & F10 M5) and a R53 Mini. I kept the boards and glad I did. They come in very handy even for floor jacks. I just bought my QJ and have to do a cat back on the Mini and power steering rack on the E30. I cannot wait to put these to use.
@@FU-Utube Lol, you only need one, though I ended up with two when I had a home garage to work in. Fair point though, 10 minutes is unrealistic; 15 to 20 if you are focused on being quick about it and dont need to solve any problems along the way. Having two used high mileage BMWs (e46s) means I "get" to do this alot; so I've got the work flow dialed in pretty good even with one floor jack.
I sprung for the Max Jack. Expensive? Yeah, but when you have to change that clutch on your Z3 it is well worth it. It does take up space when your using the lift but you get as much as 40" inch lift. And if you have a Boxster parked next to the Z3 it is a must. It seem like on a Porsche you have to drop the engine to change plugs, change the oil, swap tires, even wipe your nose!
I've 7 vehicles - usually one is on these things for over a week .. they are a godsend. LOL - I guess everyone lifts themselves at least once after putting them together .. I know I did.
Decent lift BUT I'm also interested in doing rocker panel repairs so that means finding frame to lift. But even if the full 18" lift was achieved, the rockers still aren't that high. Wish they made a long version that had a drive on ramp. THAT would be amazing. (could even flush mount in floor too)
I have the 5k model and a very low hot rod. My only complaint is the effort it takes to get the two units positioned properly under the car. The units are heavy, I’m old, and it takes some effort while on my knees to get the units in the right place fore and aft and parallel. Other than that, it has been fine and has worked well.
I returned mine for the same reason, I’m strong, but they are too heavy, it was a pain to position them properly. I found a jack much easier and quicker.
Update: 11/21/23. There is a RUclips video out there that shows a cheap hack to solve the problem. It involves fitting each 1/2 of the QJ with some cheap Harbor Freight ball casters. It works great and solved the problem.
@@markseaman4750I just watched that video today and thought, after reading your comment, there's an option that could make life better for you! It's nice to hear you've not only found that video, but found it helpful!
I was hoping you would get on a creeper and slide underneath the car with the camera so viewers could get a sense of the amount of room, but you still made the video informative and interesting points. Thanks for posting.
You stated that one side would fall if the locking arm was knocked out of place. Not true. It still has plenty of hydraulic pressure to hold it. If what you said was true then it would fall when you stopped pressing the button to raise the jacks. And yes, I have some and have used them to change transmissions, and build a racecar. I've spent a lot of time under cars using quick jacks. I would suggest jackstands as an added safety when doing something that could move the car a lot like a manual transmission replacement but I've never had a failure.
I'm sure for most people driving regular road cars, if your car is too low for these to fit under your car, you car is too low... Track cars are low because tracks are built for racing and do not have potholes or speed bumps. If you're driving your Honda Civic on the road, you don't need it that low to the ground. In regards to the product itself, I think it's great if you will be doing something with your wheels since it gets all 4 wheels off the ground at once. So like rotating your tires, changing all of the brakes, things like that. For something simple like oil changes I feel like if you have a decent floor jack, like the ones with the large handles that also double as the valves (where you just twist the handle to open or close the release valves), I feel like using one of those and some jack stands is probably simpler with less setup and might take about the same amount of time. Good video though, gives people a good idea of if this would be useful for them or not, thanks!
I got my E39 touring on the BL-500SLX right now. I lifted it from the inner frame area as I've seen people use when cutting and replacing the rocker panels, it seems to lift it pretty nice at that spot. It did seem soft but the rubber pads Quickjack provided turned side ways worked out. My concern is, the touring seems to want to lean towards the rear a lot since there is so much car back there. I put a jack stand to sort of support the differential if it were to ever fall back. My quest to you, Bimmer Barn, is do you ever feel sketched with the rear end ever falling? Thank in advance.
Great vid very informative and I like how you mentioned all the safety precautions. It's literally black friday today and i'm looking at this the most. I'm basically a diy mechanic and using a floor jack is most of the hard work.. also my garage is pretty cramped so a jack cant even make a full swing sometimes. My only real concern is the noise level and does it matter if the garage has a slight slope?
I have a set of 7,000 lb QuickJacks I bought about 5 years ago. I paid CAD$1,700 (US$1,230). Pro: Fast set-up; Fast lift cycle-time; lifts up to 7,000 lbs.; safety lock-bars. Cons: Heavy. Each lift assy weighs 100 lbs; retract cylinders have to be checked at each use; slow lower cycle-time; 22" lift; the weight makes placing or stowing these things a chore. Conclusion: I'm 67. Long-term - I should have bought a two-post lift that bolts to the floor. The 22" lift means I HAVE to crawl around on my garage floor to change drive-line fluids and do other maintenance. A two-post lift would also mean having to get different drainage equipment, but that's not a big deal. Lifting the quick-jack and wheeling it to it's storage location is a pain, but do-able for now. ind-sight is 20/20.
Good info... Just a fyi, the air cylinders (not gas) only assist the lowering of the jack once the tires contact the ground, and suspension loaded. If the air pressure is low, the jacks may not fully lower and get stuck under the car. My complaint is the lack of grease fittings. I installed them on mine during initial set up. No need for jack stands. Even if, and it won't, the locking arm pops out. The cylinders will hold up the car.
The hydraulics will not hold pressure evenly on there own. Besides when you lower the car onto the stops you release all the pressure. Best to ad jack stands if working under the car.
Thanks for this great video, very helpful! I just saw the QJ 7000TL on sale at Costco for 1500. They say it lifts to 27" with an extension. I'm a noob car guy, bought a car-intensive biz a few years and figured out quick that I need to learn to DIY as much as I can. Jack stands make me nervous. Always thought something like this would be safer and less claustrophobic, and as you pointed out can be backed up with jack stands. Sale ends 4/26. Hmmm. Anyway, thank you again!!
They work good but the downside is how much they system cost. I get away with a $135 3 ton hefty jack with an eBay $10 lift pad and I also have four safety stands and four low profile ramps that cost me like $70. With the ramps on all fours I just drive the vehicle on the ramps and I lift it quickly at once. Then I have an easier time getting the car higher if I need. My setup works great for me and my needs and I don't feel I broke the bank for it.
In response to the safety feature of it possibly coming down if accidently hit, I use 4 - 6x6's cut to sit underneath the jacks just in case it was to fall. I have 2 sizes for both lift points and it gives me peace of mind when under the car. As for the metal scraping on the floor from use, I kept the 1/8" plywood from the packaging and have that underneath the jacks when using them. Great video!
I just got a set of these and I've seen people use a jack stand underneath the quick jack just in case the locking arm comes loose. doesn't look like a terrible idea just for some redundancy
I'm not sure the air pressure ein the gas cylinder needs to be equal, they only need to be enough to drive the fluid back through the pump under no load. The pump synchronizes each hydraulic cylinder by fluid volume, pressure in each line might be different depending on load, but delta between the air cylinders should create a delta in speed
So, does that BMW not have the typical rectangular pad/socket things at the jack points on the frame? Both my old E46 and my current E92 have them, and they have a rectangular socket which the lifting device you're using is supposed to rise into. Did you just remove yours and start using those Lego blocks right on the frame?
Nice vid! I have seen this at Costco and your vid has me really considering them. I was wondering how the safety is...it does seem like a pin would have made sense for peace of mind. I have a 3 car garage and really want the MaxJax, but I worry that one of the posts will be too close to my wall. If I set it up for the center spot then I'm constantly having to bolt and unbolt a post. These won't give as much room underneath, but in reality it should be more than adequate for most things. Plus it's portable, stows away, and costs less.
These are relatively easy to set up, especially if you can leave them on the floor beside the car. I slide them out and disconnect one hose that is behind the car. Lifting up one end of the units takes a bit of effort but they roll easily on a garage floor. Disconnecting the hose is a bit tricky as well as getting them aligned with the pads under the car. All in all I like them. The Max Jack only lifts about 4 feet which seems like an awkward height to work under a car.
@@sprinterx I wound up buying them and love them! I put 2 2x4's on a wall to cover 3 studs, and attached the hangars to them and hang them on the wall. They're heavy, but I'm tall enough that they're not a hassle to lift and stow for me. Disconnecting is easy as long as you completely depressurize after lowering them down...leave the down button pushed for 5-10 seconds more. Make sure the ball on the hose end is aligned with the inward notch as well when pulling the hose to disconnect. My only issue is getting it past the second safety being a pain, I'm going to add a little more fluid and see if that's the fix. ***Edit*** A little more fluid addressed the issue, the quickjacks easily make the second safety lock now. Just make sure not to fill the reservoir all the way, you need an air gap.
Mine are rusting after two years (about 30 uses) and the air seal is leaking on one of the towers I called quicjack BUT *out of warranty they are NOT serviceable and I have to buy another tower 🤦🏻♂️.. If you start from on the wall, It’s faster with a floor jack or ramps for oil change, brakes or tire rotation. And are very heavy (of course). Otherwise nice to have as if they are already set up and you pull in the car and just slide them under it. Couple cars I have to remember to drive over couple 2x6 to fit the towers under the frame .
2 years and rusting? You must live near some salt or something, mine only have some surface rust on the bottom which gets scraped from dragging them across the floor. I love my quickjacks for daily use.
I concur with your concern about the locking arm. That said is there still hydraulic pressure on the rams that will hold the car up if the lock pops out or do you loose that pressure when you lower to the lock position?
You're right the struts would have fluid in them still, so if it slipped off the locks if might buckle a little but the struts should maintain the weight alone. Thanks for watching!
Great review, just exactly what l was hoping to received when l saw your video. I’m thinking of investing in the heavier TL 7000 model. I think l made up my mind; excellent review, thanks. I’ll be waiting for a sale somewhere so l can make a purchase.
I want to cut a recess in my concrete garage floor to keep the Quick Jacks in place all of the time for convenience, but to be able to make up the height I'm going to need a second pair underneath those. What could possibly go wrong? I wish this was a good idea instead of a bad idea, but I thought someone ought to be able to laugh at the things my brain comes up with. To be clear, I am definitely not cutting holes in my floor, nor building a Jenga tower of jacks, and can't afford the Quick Jacks right now. They sound great though!
I have them. They are plenty solid and secure as long are your using them at or under their lb rating. The are "worth" it bud just know this is not a replacement for a lift. Its just a much easier and faster way to lift your car. Its good enough but nothing more.
My brother and I just set up a 7000TL version. First car lifted was a 70 Bonneville. No issues at all lifting a 4500 pound 20 foot long Detroit classic.
For those older garage mechanics amongst us, the QJ makes winter/summer wheel changes and brake work so much easier. It’s not always about time. Great video.
That's why I bought 'em - I can't wait to set them up and try them out. For our daily driver and the twice-yearly tire change, oil changes and brake inspection, and for out vintage VW Beetle, lots of room for the oil and brakes and access for the yearly tune up too!
I have a big floor jack and four HD jack stands and get by just fine.
If I had the cash to spare, I might think of QJ, 😉
I'm with you on that!
@@daszieher 2 Jacks, 6 jack stands FOR MY BIG AZZ TRUCK. Cost..... less than 1/3 of these. And total set up and jacking time is about 15 mins.
Or a jack stand in each corner.
10:45
I just turned 64 years old and still maintain all of my cars myself. I am getting a quick jack for sure. Thank you for a great video. You helped me make up my mind.
I'll be the same boat with you. Thanks for the video
At 66 me three!
I am far younger but with the cost of everything today doing it yourself is far worth it. Plus it is just a great skill to have. I will definitely picking these up.
For added security i like to add a pair of ramps under the wheels at the end I'm working. They're placed under the wheels but not touching. I'm fairly confident in the QJ but you can always add to it.
Good tip.
I do also, and if I remove my wheels I put them under the frame to limit how far down the car can drop. My fittings at the pump began leaking the third month I started using mine. I ordered new ones and one failed almost immediately. I now have spares.
@@layla471 The fluid stays in the hoses, and if you get any dirt in the fittings, they will leak. My pump fittings have been replaced due to leaking and dumping fluid, once, so far. I work on my vehicles outside, so it is a dusty environment, I am careful to wipe the fittings, and clean out the caps prior to storing them. I ordered a second set of pump fittings for when they leak, not if they leak. I probably will attach the hoses directly to the pump, eventually.
On top of what you mentioned for added security I use my old High School football helmet and shoulder pads 👍🏼
😂
I purchased the same model about two years ago on sale at Costco for about $980. They are in use all the time with a variety of vehicles. We love them!!
Lucky I’ll have to keep an eye out for a deal like that again !!
That's cheap!
Do they get the car high enough to pull transmissions??
@@reggiemhc Depends on the size of the transmission bell housing. 22 inches clearance might not be enough for some trannys ... unless the bell housing is removable.
$1,200 now with a $300 limited time discount. I'm looking at the larger 700TL, wish I had more space for a two post lift.
What I did to keep the bottom of my quick jack from scraping is to got felt pads and strips and put them at various location on the bottom. It makes the jack slide easier, and keep the bottom from getting scratched.
I have had mine for several years and it seems to work fine. Hope this helps.
I have this quick jack myself. It's definitely heavy to move around the garage. Always always read the instructions fully even for the most common sense stuff. Likely wise be careful and practice safety. If anyone has questions about this I'm happy to help.
I've had the 7500 version for 4 years now and love it. I would prefer a full size lift, but only have 8 ft ceilings, with a garage door opener to boot. I did have a problem, early on, when one lift went down slower than the other. After a call to tech support, they were both balanced out, and I've never had a problem since.
Don’t worry about the safety bar, it was engineered by true engineers. In order for that bar to move out of lock position the platform need to be raised. This is extremely improbable with the weight of even the lightest vehicle on there. There is no getting around the physics. Bump it all you want with a sledge, it’s not gonna budge. I would estimate that in order to hit it hard enough, and raise the platform and car enough, it would actually bend the safety bar first before lifting it high enough.
Yeah… that fecker is not coming out of there!
There is also still hydrolic pressure in the piston, even if you saw the bar in half it wouldnt fall.
I bought these to build a SpecE46 racecar in my garage and they are fantastic. Obviously a full lift would have been ideal but my home garage doesn't have the ceiling height to go much higher. These give you access to pretty much every part of the car you need access to.
Were you able to pull the transmission out with 21” of clearance?
@@gg6k That's a good question. The answer is yes, by supporting the engine via a hoist so I could remove the motor mounts, I could then lower the engine another several inches to create the clearance to get the transmission out, but honestly, I find it easier to just remove the entire front end and take the engine and transmission out together, then separate them.
The difficulty isn't taking it out, it's putting it back in the car and bolting it up, so just easier to put them back in as one unit.
Finally someone discussed the actual time it takes to use day in and day out and advises on actual heights with the pads! THANK YOU. so many people were talking about great it is without actually explaining how long it takes to set up. My car is low and going to get lowered so I'd have to use ramps or jacks to even get the quickjack in place so it's likely not for me. outstanding review!
Do 4 sets of 2-2x6 or 8 boards stacked on each other and screwed together. Cut angle on one side. And drive up on them, then slide them under the car. Had to do that to get a stock 2016 mustang on a lift
If the car is too low to slide the QJs under the car cut some short, maybe 6", pieces of 2x4 and place those in front of the wheels and drive onto them. It'll lift the car enough for you to slide the QJs under it.
Yes, that is the easiest way to gain a few inches without having to mess with jacking up some other point of the vehicle.
Have 2 Corvettes, 2016 & 2020 and a 2017 ZL1 Camaro. All are Low Profile cars and I bought bthe 7000 model and they lift with no problems. Great Video. Got mine through Costco in the bundle package with Taxes $1700.
I've had mine for a couple of years now. I've used it pretty much without any bad incidents - except once. Follow the instructions carefully! Bleed the system regularly! Air in the lines will cause a severe problem when lowering it with a car on it! I still use jack stands under the care for added safety! Also, it's really heavy to move around!
I have the 3500 lb model for my 64 Corvette and it is a great addition for DIY chores. I leave mine hooked up all of the time via the front of the car and push the two jacks together under the car. I can drive my car in and out without any interference and never have to fool with the hoses. They are kind of heavy to move around so I added four ball rollers to each side and now they move with the touch of one finger. I bought mine at a surplus outlet for $1,000. I also use them to support my car since I do not drive it much during the winter and it keeps the tires from getting flat spots. At $280 a tire that is a big saving. I've had mine for a year with zero problems and I always use jack stands anytime I am under the car.
Good idea!
Save the wall space for the rakes and shovels,, lol
You dont have problem to let the qj up in the air all winter, i ask sometime i start a job who take 1 month because of late part and need the car jacked for this time , so if is safe for a winter is safe for one month !
Good tip about using jack stands as secondary safety measure.
Thanks for a very informative, thorough and no nonsense review. Greatly appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
Terrific overview of the Quick Jack system. Well explained, clearly unbiased and overall just what a possible purchaser needs. Kudos to you!
If you don't have enough clearance to get them under the car you can also drive the car onto pieces of 2x12 to get another 1.5 inches. Apply some adhesive sandpaper to the bottom if they scoot forward when you try to drive up onto them.
Harbor freight sells a $239 floor jack that lifts 24 inches and with a puck I can get about 26 inches. Buy two, one for each side with jack stands, I can lift the front to get similar effect. I like using the two floor jacks on the edges with the additional jack stands closer in the middle as extra safety. I lower the floor jacks slightly so the weight is distributed among 2 floor jacks and 2 jack stands. I feel safe with 4 supports and setup and take down time is shorter.
With tire rotation running $50 or more, doing just that with QJ would pay for them in short order....esp if you have multiple vehicles.....and if you have 5 granddaughters. A good impact wrench helps too!
Damn didn't know tire rotation costed $50!?
10:20: That's not really a concern. First of all, with the full weight of that car on it you're not moving that lock. Second of all, it's already a redundancy - in order for it to come down there would need to be a leak in the hydraulic ram (somewhere for the fluid to go). Whether they're plugged into the pump and the control valves are all shut or they're unplugged from the pump they're a sealed system. So the only way they could come down if you cut the lock or similar is if the hydraulic ram already had a major leak. So as it sits the locks are just a fail over for the hydraulics or vice versa, depending on where you put the load. So even if you could kick that lock out it's not going anywhere.
They're great jacks, I love mine, but they're kinda a slog to set up b/c they're so heavy to situate and the jack points don't always align well with the points on the car. Once they're situated though.... Good amount of height, done transmissions, differentials, exhaust, etc., rock solid stable, and I've left them out in my driveway with a car on them for like 2 months before (just brought the pump inside the garage) and no issues, great jack, my only complaint is the set-up effort.
Strongly considering getting this for the ease and speed of getting a car ready to be worked on at home but YEAH 100% would use stands on all 4 corners even if it had a better locking mechanism.
Glad you did this video! Just ordered mine now. I was worried about the size for my e39 525iT and then my e30, but your demo answered that question. Thanks for the video!!
Glad I could help! You just have to know what you're doing and you can make the standard ones work on any car.
@@TheBimmerBarn I have a range of sizes from the short e30 up to e39 and a few in between. I’ll save the $$ and just get the standard one now I know it’ll work on all of them. Thx!!
Bought mine for my home garage. Gearhead here Have many projects. Also have a 4 post and just got a mid-rise moveable 2post. This quick jack is fantastic. Slow yes but faster & SAFER than floor jacks, jack stands. When the race car is done I’ll be able to take the q jack to the track if needed. Love it.
If your car has front and rear central lift points like an e90 for example, I feel like using ramps and jack stands takes the same time, but at a fraction of the cost and material.
@10:40.. the hydraulic fluid in the cylinder does not disapeer once the ramp is up. The locks are a secondary. No need for extra complications. A pin would just be a point to really mess something up. Forget it and the vehicle lifts or goes down crooked.
My go to is still my jack and stands. These are a pain to set up, really heavy, a lot of side to side to make sure it's on the right spot. Only time I use them is when I need a lot of height for a long time which makes the difficult lengthy set up worth it. These are better suited for people with bigger garage/workspace where you can have your hydraulic lines set up permanently and not have to lift the quickjacks out of the way every time.
68 years old. Have had mine for 2 or 3 years. Bought the shorter length 5000 # unit. Works on my 2003 BMW Z4 and 2007 Honda Accord. The BMW has jack pads, 2 on each side. They work great with the QJ. Not so well with floor jack. There is no center jacking point in the front and the front bumper is too low for a low profile jack.
The Honda has weld seams so I got the rubber blocks with slots for that. Don't stack the rubber blocks. They will slide off the side causing the car to drop onto steel frame. Ask how I know.
If you need more height use wood blocks to gain some height under rubber blocks.
Always let the car rest at the stopping points. The hydraulics will bleed out unevenly if you stop in between.
0:13 Chris, if you are using these daily, time to sell the BMW and get a Porsche 911. Nothing like a lift; I have a MaxJax. OK, now that I have seen the whole video, it is extremely well done and covers all the details. I wish more YT videos were this good. I might just add one of these if the price is right. Its the kind of lift I could use for doing brake bleeds when I need to take all four wheels off.
Good job on the review. Watching as many videos on these as possible. Some are unwatchable, yours kept me all the way through!
I appreciate that! I tried to have fun with this one, and keep it engaging.
Well done video. My only issue is the safety bar concern. Even if you knocked the bar out, you'd still have ram pressure holding the lift in place. Not saying it isn't possible for your lift to collapse but there's a whole bunch of stuff that would have to line up for that to happen. I've had my QJ for a couple of years and have no worries about it failing in that manner. All in all, your video was very comprehensive (far better than the one I did) and I'll refer folks to yours if they ask about my QJ's.😎
Appreciate the love brother
Yeah, the safety bar concern made me laugh.
When I get mine QuickJack I will make platforms at each corners for the floor jacks to reach the bottom of the vehicle structure. You could get underneath a thousand times but all you need is one major accident. Murphy's Law will appear out of nowhere and unexpected.
@kimchee94112 you could just use jack stands for a safety or even build wood cribbing to put under the tires. The reality is once you back the jacks down to the lock bar those bars hold all the weight.
Bought some last year they are fantastic. Wish I had them 20 years ago. I find it best to leave on the floor under car pushed together. They are quite heavy to drag around.
I work outside mostly, and the fittings need to be wiped down before you put the caps on, which harden with age. If you get any dirt in the fittings they will leak and damage the O-rings causing a messy clean up on your driveway or garage floor. I ordered spares, not cheap. The QJ are great for my weekly use, and makes it safer than just jack stands and the limited height of the common jacks. They take too much time for one wheel work, but for any long term undercarriage tasks, I definitely use mine.
I store my dodge challenger rt on my quickjacks for the winter in my garage, I have the largest ones so I can use them also on my ram pickup truck. I think that they are very safe and trust them over floor Jack's, great reliable product!
Look good for the price. I think my wife is gonna get me those for Christmas!
You'll love them! 👍
Great video man.
I have the 7000 pound quick jacks. I bought them so long ago that I was on the waiting list for over 12 months before they shipped.
You made all great points in your vid.
I would only add that these jacks are not for amateurs. You should have a lot of common sense and safety in mind for using these in any other environment than flat cement.
That being said, I’ve used mine from vegas to Toronto in all kinds of weather, all kinds of cars. They are worth every penny.
Only recently had to disassemble the valve body on the pump and clean the O rings.
Under certain conditions, you should double and triple check the automatic leveling as you lift the car. Use common sense and make sure the car is set solid.
I have the jacks under my 67 barracuda right now on gravel. Welding up a new exhaust system.
I got the 6000ELX, my jack points on my 5 series were kinda out there. Having done my brakes, wheel bearings, transmission fluid, oil and guibo joints, these things have paid for themselves and then some. And they will continue to save money on labor costs. They say BMWs will bankrupt you after warranty ends, but if you learn to do it yourself, it's not bad at all.
I'm late to the party here, old video I just found, but one thing not mentioned in the video that is worth thinking about is that the QuickJack doesn't allow you access from the side. This is obvious of course just from looking at them, but it is one of those things you don't think about till you're under the car wishing you could get in from the side for some reason.
Otherwise they are great, especially for brake work, tire rotations, oil changes and similar. Especially handy for smaller and lower sports cars. They will fit under pretty much anything that is street legal. I don't like them for my truck or my jeep, and still jack those manually.
I have a set I tend to use my actual jack more just for time setting up. But I do love them. If I am doing all 4 wheel break job or something where I need the entire car up like an exhaust it's soooo nice.
I just started at a mom and pop body shop... and honestly i'm tired of being on the dusty floor .. they need this
When I had my Corvette (2002 Z06) I had a set of these. I kept them in the garage such that I drove over them leaving the sides clear for walking and whatnot. It wasn't too difficult to slide them out to the in use position. I finally had to sell my Corvette due to failing health. Made it difficult to get in and out of the car. (I'm now 74).
C5Z!!!
Sorry to hear about your failing health. I'm 70 and have a 2003 Vette (not a Z06). Crawling under my Vette is getting harder and harder to do.
You should use them the other way given the weight balance of the car and the direction the lock rail goes.
This is the best unbiased review l have seen on youtube
Thanks for the video ya think this would work for lifted trucks?
Yeah they have a version made for heavy duty weight and size
Losing hydraulics will kill you just as fast as that latch kicking out. This is basically the same as a hydraulic lift jack which you use in order to get your stands under so I would definitely put jack stands as a back up as you did. Nicely Done,thanks.
I wish I had bought some back when these great deals were available. Not so much anymore. Still a great value, regardless.
I wanted one for so long and finally ended up getting one and instantly regretted it which just about ended in disaster.
It had a bad hydraulic cylinder right out of the box, after some testing and a few hours with phone support they sent out a replacement cylinder which was also faulty.
The tech support person didn't seem surprised at all but they finally got another cylinder sent out which didn't immediately fail. Hooray. It was at this point that I should have returned it to the store.
So about 21 days after I bought it I finally got to run it up and down a couple times unloaded as per phone support's instructions. Then I loaded it with my snow blower and some other ballast, seemed ok.
A little slow compared to youtube videos but it worked so then I tried lifting my car and the car just about ended up on it's roof, one of the cylinders failed about halfway up while lifting and started dropping fast. I got on the down button and lowered it fast enough that it only fell a few inches but my heart rate was higher than Willie Nelson for a few hours.
The youtubers seem to love this poorly made junk but if you decide to plunk down your hard earned cash to get one please for the love of god, don't stand near it when lifting and be VERY attentive that everything is moving at the same speed.
My wife bought me a set for Christmas, I returned them after I tried them, They were a pain in the ass, it was quicker to use a Jack. They were heavy, and just took to long for my needs to move them into position.
Hello. Old school stuff that when you take the tires off when servicing the brakes, put the tires under the frame so if something happens..the car can only fall as far as the clearance of the tires Safe Safe... But great video that will help me decide...
My 2K Vette needed a rear main seal leak fix, shop wanted a ton of money. Picked a 7000TL which is way more then the Vette needs however my Jeep does push the scales at 4500lbs. Having the Vette 27" in the air makes working under it almost enjoyable...almost.
I have a 2003 Vette and its rear main seal is leaking a LOT! My local garage wants $1700 to fix it. Were you able to fix the leak yourself?
@@GregSr I did. And now that I have done it in hindsight I would have gladly paid $1700 to have it done. Does your local garage know the entire drivetrain has to come out along with the entire rear subframe? It is a MAJOR pain in the ass.
Great video
If your car is too low to slide the QJ under - don’t waste your time using a floor jack to raise the car. (If your car is THAT low a floor jack won’t fit under your car either.)
Cut some 2x8 or 2x10 boards about 18” long and drive the car up onto these. Presto! You can now slide the QJ under your car.
Comparing the time to use the QJ vs a floor jack and jack stands…..
Try raising your car 17” with a floor jack and jack stands. You’ll be lucky to get it raised 17” and supported securely in 30 minutes - or more.
30 minutes? What?? Depends on the car somewhat, but it's usually not that bad ... 10 to 15 minutes using center jack points (front, back, front, back) ... assuming you are working quickly and not taking beer breaks.
@@LeverPhile How many jacks do you have available lol?
@@LeverPhileBeer break is a must and should be included in any garage wrenching, you should also include the time of your friend watching 😂
Came to type the same thing. I have 2x12's 20" long. Leftover from my RX7 racing days. I now have 2 BMW's (E30 & F10 M5) and a R53 Mini. I kept the boards and glad I did. They come in very handy even for floor jacks. I just bought my QJ and have to do a cat back on the Mini and power steering rack on the E30. I cannot wait to put these to use.
@@FU-Utube Lol, you only need one, though I ended up with two when I had a home garage to work in.
Fair point though, 10 minutes is unrealistic; 15 to 20 if you are focused on being quick about it and dont need to solve any problems along the way.
Having two used high mileage BMWs (e46s) means I "get" to do this alot; so I've got the work flow dialed in pretty good even with one floor jack.
I sprung for the Max Jack. Expensive? Yeah, but when you have to change that clutch on your Z3 it is well worth it. It does take up space when your using the lift but you get as much as 40" inch lift. And if you have a Boxster parked next to the Z3 it is a must. It seem like on a Porsche you have to drop the engine to change plugs, change the oil, swap tires, even wipe your nose!
I've 7 vehicles - usually one is on these things for over a week .. they are a godsend. LOL - I guess everyone lifts themselves at least once after putting them together .. I know I did.
Hahaha thanks for sharing, definitely one of the most valuable tools in our garages!
Thanks for the video! Just ordered these for my MKV Supra. Gona make oil change and track wheel changes a breeze.
Decent lift BUT I'm also interested in doing rocker panel repairs so that means finding frame to lift. But even if the full 18" lift was achieved, the rockers still aren't that high. Wish they made a long version that had a drive on ramp. THAT would be amazing. (could even flush mount in floor too)
price went up quite a bit, I opted for a midrise maxjax 2 post instead, 24 inches isn't enough.
I think my second choice would be a scissor lift.
I have the 5k model and a very low hot rod. My only complaint is the effort it takes to get the two units positioned properly under the car. The units are heavy, I’m old, and it takes some effort while on my knees to get the units in the right place fore and aft and parallel. Other than that, it has been fine and has worked well.
I returned mine for the same reason, I’m strong, but they are too heavy, it was a pain to position them properly. I found a jack much easier and quicker.
Update: 11/21/23. There is a RUclips video out there that shows a cheap hack to solve the problem. It involves fitting each 1/2 of the QJ with some cheap Harbor Freight ball casters. It works great and solved the problem.
@@markseaman4750I just watched that video today and thought, after reading your comment, there's an option that could make life better for you! It's nice to hear you've not only found that video, but found it helpful!
I was hoping you would get on a creeper and slide underneath the car with the camera so viewers could get a sense of the amount of room, but you still made the video informative and interesting points. Thanks for posting.
Mine raises about 20 inches. More than my jack and stands.
You stated that one side would fall if the locking arm was knocked out of place. Not true. It still has plenty of hydraulic pressure to hold it. If what you said was true then it would fall when you stopped pressing the button to raise the jacks. And yes, I have some and have used them to change transmissions, and build a racecar. I've spent a lot of time under cars using quick jacks. I would suggest jackstands as an added safety when doing something that could move the car a lot like a manual transmission replacement but I've never had a failure.
I'm sure for most people driving regular road cars, if your car is too low for these to fit under your car, you car is too low... Track cars are low because tracks are built for racing and do not have potholes or speed bumps. If you're driving your Honda Civic on the road, you don't need it that low to the ground.
In regards to the product itself, I think it's great if you will be doing something with your wheels since it gets all 4 wheels off the ground at once. So like rotating your tires, changing all of the brakes, things like that. For something simple like oil changes I feel like if you have a decent floor jack, like the ones with the large handles that also double as the valves (where you just twist the handle to open or close the release valves), I feel like using one of those and some jack stands is probably simpler with less setup and might take about the same amount of time.
Good video though, gives people a good idea of if this would be useful for them or not, thanks!
I got my E39 touring on the BL-500SLX right now. I lifted it from the inner frame area as I've seen people use when cutting and replacing the rocker panels, it seems to lift it pretty nice at that spot. It did seem soft but the rubber pads Quickjack provided turned side ways worked out. My concern is, the touring seems to want to lean towards the rear a lot since there is so much car back there. I put a jack stand to sort of support the differential if it were to ever fall back.
My quest to you, Bimmer Barn, is do you ever feel sketched with the rear end ever falling? Thank in advance.
With some easy mod’s would make a good motorcycle lift too for my 900lb G-Wing, with a plywood or steel deck on top of it.
Infinitely adjustable from side to side? Not limited by the length of the hydraulic hose.
Absolutely fantastic presentation. Best one I have seen on the product. Definitely helped me secure my decision!! many thanks.
I was just about to comment that if you're concerned about the safety to also use jackstands, but then you said you did that. Good thinking.
Great video! I have a 2011 BMW 328i xDrive E91. What size do you think I should purchase? Thanks!
Great vid very informative and I like how you mentioned all the safety precautions. It's literally black friday today and i'm looking at this the most. I'm basically a diy mechanic and using a floor jack is most of the hard work.. also my garage is pretty cramped so a jack cant even make a full swing sometimes. My only real concern is the noise level and does it matter if the garage has a slight slope?
You should use jackstands regardless of how long you are under the car.
I have a set of 7,000 lb QuickJacks I bought about 5 years ago. I paid CAD$1,700 (US$1,230). Pro: Fast set-up; Fast lift cycle-time; lifts up to 7,000 lbs.; safety lock-bars. Cons: Heavy. Each lift assy weighs 100 lbs; retract cylinders have to be checked at each use; slow lower cycle-time; 22" lift; the weight makes placing or stowing these things a chore.
Conclusion: I'm 67. Long-term - I should have bought a two-post lift that bolts to the floor. The 22" lift means I HAVE to crawl around on my garage floor to change drive-line fluids and do other maintenance. A two-post lift would also mean having to get different drainage equipment, but that's not a big deal. Lifting the quick-jack and wheeling it to it's storage location is a pain, but do-able for now. ind-sight is 20/20.
Depends what you do with it. Mine paid for itself with two uses.
Even if the arm was to be "popped off" on it's own it wouldnt matter. There is still hydrolic pressure in the piston. It's redundant by default.
Good info... Just a fyi, the air cylinders (not gas) only assist the lowering of the jack once the tires contact the ground, and suspension loaded. If the air pressure is low, the jacks may not fully lower and get stuck under the car. My complaint is the lack of grease fittings. I installed them on mine during initial set up. No need for jack stands. Even if, and it won't, the locking arm pops out. The cylinders will hold up the car.
Air _is_ a gas.
@@OMGWTFLOLSMH Gas mixture if we are being pedantic. ~21% Oxygen ~78% Nitrogen and ~1% fart ;-)
The hydraulics will not hold pressure evenly on there own. Besides when you lower the car onto the stops you release all the pressure. Best to ad jack stands if working under the car.
Thanks for this great video, very helpful! I just saw the QJ 7000TL on sale at Costco for 1500. They say it lifts to 27" with an extension. I'm a noob car guy, bought a car-intensive biz a few years and figured out quick that I need to learn to DIY as much as I can. Jack stands make me nervous. Always thought something like this would be safer and less claustrophobic, and as you pointed out can be backed up with jack stands. Sale ends 4/26. Hmmm. Anyway, thank you again!!
Grab it! Just make sure you choose the right size for the cars that you will be lifting. Thanks for watching 😊
IM looking at these or a perm vert lift. But i kinda like these, if i ever move they will be super easy to pack up.
They work good but the downside is how much they system cost. I get away with a $135 3 ton hefty jack with an eBay $10 lift pad and I also have four safety stands and four low profile ramps that cost me like $70. With the ramps on all fours I just drive the vehicle on the ramps and I lift it quickly at once. Then I have an easier time getting the car higher if I need. My setup works great for me and my needs and I don't feel I broke the bank for it.
In response to the safety feature of it possibly coming down if accidently hit, I use 4 - 6x6's cut to sit underneath the jacks just in case it was to fall. I have 2 sizes for both lift points and it gives me peace of mind when under the car. As for the metal scraping on the floor from use, I kept the 1/8" plywood from the packaging and have that underneath the jacks when using them. Great video!
Great video, one question as the jack goes up it also goes back how much distance do I need in the front and back? My car is a bit long
I just got a set of these and I've seen people use a jack stand underneath the quick jack just in case the locking arm comes loose. doesn't look like a terrible idea just for some redundancy
I'm not sure the air pressure ein the gas cylinder needs to be equal, they only need to be enough to drive the fluid back through the pump under no load. The pump synchronizes each hydraulic cylinder by fluid volume, pressure in each line might be different depending on load, but delta between the air cylinders should create a delta in speed
Instead of hanging them up when not in use, cant you push them close to each other and park over them while theyre in the middle under the car?
I think I will get these and weld them to the underside of my car. This way I can work on my car anywhere. It would also double the value of my car.
Seems logical. Would be even better if you got another set for your roof . Make great active roll bars.
So, does that BMW not have the typical rectangular pad/socket things at the jack points on the frame? Both my old E46 and my current E92 have them, and they have a rectangular socket which the lifting device you're using is supposed to rise into. Did you just remove yours and start using those Lego blocks right on the frame?
Check valve would always stop that piston from collapsing.
Nice vid! I have seen this at Costco and your vid has me really considering them. I was wondering how the safety is...it does seem like a pin would have made sense for peace of mind. I have a 3 car garage and really want the MaxJax, but I worry that one of the posts will be too close to my wall. If I set it up for the center spot then I'm constantly having to bolt and unbolt a post. These won't give as much room underneath, but in reality it should be more than adequate for most things. Plus it's portable, stows away, and costs less.
These are relatively easy to set up, especially if you can leave them on the floor beside the car. I slide them out and disconnect one hose that is behind the car. Lifting up one end of the units takes a bit of effort but they roll easily on a garage floor. Disconnecting the hose is a bit tricky as well as getting them aligned with the pads under the car. All in all I like them.
The Max Jack only lifts about 4 feet which seems like an awkward height to work under a car.
@@sprinterx I wound up buying them and love them! I put 2 2x4's on a wall to cover 3 studs, and attached the hangars to them and hang them on the wall. They're heavy, but I'm tall enough that they're not a hassle to lift and stow for me. Disconnecting is easy as long as you completely depressurize after lowering them down...leave the down button pushed for 5-10 seconds more. Make sure the ball on the hose end is aligned with the inward notch as well when pulling the hose to disconnect. My only issue is getting it past the second safety being a pain, I'm going to add a little more fluid and see if that's the fix. ***Edit*** A little more fluid addressed the issue, the quickjacks easily make the second safety lock now. Just make sure not to fill the reservoir all the way, you need an air gap.
ignore the pin comment, I have them and there is no legit way you are smacking out the mechanical lockout.
Mine are rusting after two years (about 30 uses) and the air seal is leaking on one of the towers I called quicjack BUT *out of warranty they are NOT serviceable and I have to buy another tower 🤦🏻♂️.. If you start from on the wall, It’s faster with a floor jack or ramps for oil change, brakes or tire rotation. And are very heavy (of course). Otherwise nice to have as if they are already set up and you pull in the car and just slide them under it. Couple cars I have to remember to drive over couple 2x6 to fit the towers under the frame .
2 years and rusting? You must live near some salt or something, mine only have some surface rust on the bottom which gets scraped from dragging them across the floor. I love my quickjacks for daily use.
Thanks for making this video. I have a question, is the quickjack suitable for detailing purposes? Can it withstand daily abuse for car washes?
Their marketing materials say they have no problem getting wet and you can use for detailing.
Great Vid! How heavy are these units?
I'm tempted to buy this to lift my Audi B5 S4 and old VW Beetle. I think the 3500 model would work. Thanks for the video.
These would be a great substitute for a trading lift if you don't have the space or your concrete slab isn't suitable.
it would help if you used it correctly. the side with the label goes towards the heavy side of the car.
I concur with your concern about the locking arm. That said is there still hydraulic pressure on the rams that will hold the car up if the lock pops out or do you loose that pressure when you lower to the lock position?
You're right the struts would have fluid in them still, so if it slipped off the locks if might buckle a little but the struts should maintain the weight alone. Thanks for watching!
stay safe lads, place spare wheels flat on the ground, underneath your fitted wheels for additional peace of mind
Been looking at these for my '02 E46 Cabriolet. What is your opinion for a E46? Thanks! Looking forward to following your channel.
I used them on my E46 as well, fits the jack points great. Very versatile tool! Thanks for watching and commenting LP :)
@@TheBimmerBarn Thanks for the quick reply. Will go to COSTCO and check on them this week.
Great review, just exactly what l was hoping to received when l saw your video. I’m thinking of investing in the heavier TL 7000 model. I think l made up my mind; excellent review, thanks. I’ll be waiting for a sale somewhere so l can make a purchase.
Costco is selling the 7000
at CA$ 1 840 tax and shipping is included
I'm also looking to get the 7000tl version. Costco has it for 1599 bundle. I need to make sure it will fit my nissan xterra and my small honda.
I want to cut a recess in my concrete garage floor to keep the Quick Jacks in place all of the time for convenience, but to be able to make up the height I'm going to need a second pair underneath those. What could possibly go wrong?
I wish this was a good idea instead of a bad idea, but I thought someone ought to be able to laugh at the things my brain comes up with. To be clear, I am definitely not cutting holes in my floor, nor building a Jenga tower of jacks, and can't afford the Quick Jacks right now. They sound great though!
Came for the jack review. Stayed for the Touring
I have them. They are plenty solid and secure as long are your using them at or under their lb rating. The are "worth" it bud just know this is not a replacement for a lift. Its just a much easier and faster way to lift your car.
Its good enough but nothing more.
Thank you for an informative presentation.
I do like mine but I find that I only use them if needed, as it take so much time to set them up as opposed to a simply using a jack and jack stands.
Had me dying with the faces and positions 😂😂😂